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@@Moronicsmurf there are a bunch of them. I used two different calculators to make sure the slurry pitch was in the correct pitch range. I used the yeast pitch rate calculator from Brewers friend adjusted for slurry and yeast type. I also double checked it with another random calculator i found googling.

@@mahalteaco its not bad. You can adjust the base height so they dont get smashed in by force. Just have to play with it with a few cans to find the sweet spot so the seam is ok and they can isnt getting deformed. Ive not had any issues myself but im only doing carbonated beers.

@@robbritchey339 thanks!!! I appreciate it. The kettle clamp is an early version of the one linked here. I think you may be able to get one put together by them as they have split it into 2 different products now. They do alot of custom stuff i believe but looks like combining the two might work well with a TC on the lid. www.crafthardware.de/en/products/klemme-mit-angeschweisstem-griff?_pos=13&_sid=9f93c7931&_ss=r www.crafthardware.de/en/products/kesselgriff-tri-clamp-halterung?_pos=12&_sid=9ec7b9756&_ss=r

@@vimsenbryggeri i messaged them before I ordered and told them what power cord, color and bases i wanted. I even got some sleek 330ml cans and they made a base for me for the new can type with this link. They have a pretty good range of can sizes they have bases for and they are pretty reasonably priced. They are pretty responsive to messages. a.aliexpress.com/_EzvTcdJ

@@Moronicsmurf its one i imported myself. I made a video on it with links. ruclips.net/video/nj1mFgmjX_k/видео.htmlsi=jIicfmnE4ggaXPRd

@@TheKimJohansen im always using the finest one they have. I can’t remember what the micron is off the top of my head. Smallest holes one haha

@@MasteringHomebrew Thanks for the quick answer. Does it clog up with the dry hops?

@ Ive not had it happen personally. I usually dump the dry hops before i start the best i can a day before packaging. Sometimes same day. Depends on the beer and amounts i added.

@@TheKimJohansen basically i have it open while initially opening the butterfly valve so the co2 (and any sneaky oxygen that still may be inside) is forced out of the prv instead of going back up and into the tank. Once the filter is full of foam ill close the prv. Doing it this way ensures its only beer and co2 in the filter.

@@hnnrrk thanks!! Im using a cheap laser i got from aliExpress called the Daja DJ6 laser. It works pretty good although it does go a bit slow. Removes a layer of paint and can etch glasses and stuff. Fun little gadget.

​@@MasteringHomebrew ah thanks for sharing! it's a really great idea vs. sticker labels plus helps make recycling easier - curious, does it also work for unpainted aluminum cans?

@@hnnrrk I havent tried normal silver cans. It may mark them with a matte type of etching but im not sure. For etching glass you need “etching paper” and i used some black etching paper on white cans for a wedding i made beers for so the writing popped a bit more. If you spend a bit more on a more powerful laser id assume it would work better, faster and without the etching paper. Also some lasers come with rotating bases that will rotate the can as it prints so you can do the entire can. Mine only works in a certain window before the laser becomes unfocused on the edges since i dont have the fancy base. Thats why i print in a line from top to bottom. When shopping around you will see the one for printing cans, glasses and themos.

@MasteringHomebrew ah I see, awesome, thanks so much for the info! cheers 🍻

@@kekeskia yep still working well. Just used it to can up a batch a few days ago. I even ordered a new adapter for sleek cans.

@MasteringHomebrew thanks ! I will order one pretty soon, for my little meadery :)

@@klaustscherne3155 thanks! Its for easy sample pulling so i dont have to put my hand in the kettle.

Haha its a 100g dry hop of BRU-1. Saisons dont really need big dry hop charges. The hop dropper holds alot and is huge so it looks like way less. Also a bit of SMB for packaging day went in i believe.

@@andrevangijsel957 yep! Mostly to eliminate the shadow areas in the original 3 way valves. I started this project before they came out with the clean core 3 way valves. I didnt want to have to completely breakdown the valves and have to get a rebuild kit for every valve every time i wanted to deep clean. Then it was just about making it look nice with easy cleaning and eliminating hoses for the most part. Could probably eliminate the 2 sight glasses on the right for normal pipes but I had them anyway and they just so happened to fit just right.

ruclips.net/video/nj1mFgmjX_k/видео.htmlsi=norq_bVMAIUwrEVA

@@jimmybacon1868 thank you! Yes, it’s the little rubber pad for the miniuni for when you wall mount them. Good eye!

​@@MasteringHomebrew Clever! I though buying a 3D printer to build these kind of pieces but no time for that :)

@@jimmybacon1868 yea i want to do the same but man this hobby takes enough time as it is! 😂

@@beattyj8 thank you! Yea the troll cart is low enough. Im not exactly a tall guy and i have more than enough room without having to reach when stirring and adding the recirculation manifold. The kettle is just below my chest.

@@Mike-bg2bi hi! Thats a kegland spunding “blow tie” but i would not recommend it personally. They are very cheaply made and pretty poor quality. Good for a few uses but i would suggest investing in a more robust keg ball lock spunding valve made from stainless steel from another brand. Kegland is poor quality equipment.

@@jakem8996 thanks! They are normal standard sized 202 CDL end type lids. I get my cans from a local homebrew shop (brewshop.no) but i also get some of the specialty “sleek” cans that are also 202 sized from a friend at a macro brewery.

@@MasteringHomebrew Thanks! I've got one on order for my microbrewery in the US. Seriously, your videos are a work of art. Prost!

@@jakem8996 nice! Thanks a million! Appreciate that.

@@rljjanssen its not branded. I did a video on it recently with all the details. I imported it myself from a seamer factory in hong kong.

@@hmmpof no its not. Generally its ok for 60L batches but for 80L batches you need a bit more sparge water. Ive been using a B40pro lately instead since it’s easier than using the mini uni. Ive been asking the guys to make a HLT that will fit under the troll cart but not sure if they have made any plans for that.

@@MasteringHomebrew yes I can can imagine. Only 500 watts must take forvever to heat up?

@@hmmpof i was normally heating mash and sparge water together with the overnight countdown then id transfer over to the miniuni and use the element to maintain the temp.

@@hmmpof i picked it up from aliexpress. Here is the link. a.aliexpress.com/_EutUR4l

@@Brittanyblahblah_ really good! In fact i just ordered a new base and just did 200 sleek 330ml cans for the first time. It still works great for me. I was pleasantly surprised sleek cans also use 202 sized lids and they printed/molded and sent me a base for sleek cans so that its easily interchangeable once the height is set. Only cost about $20usd. I didnt mention this in the video but once you set the height for one can size all you need to do is change the base and the height is good to go. I can do various can sizes in a run just by simply changing out the base with no adjustments to the machine itself.

@@hmmpof i got them from this interior design shop called granit. This is the link to the one i cut to size. They have others too though. www.granit.com/se/forvaringstavla-rutnat-hylla-60x100cm-svart-372654/

Tusinde tak

@@hmmpof i get mine here brewshop.no/produkt/tapping-av-ol/boksing-av-ol/202-cdl-sorte-lokk-til-olbokser-320-stk?gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADLv8UzDlXwY_buIKLLwFFH8GYU_1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8uvcmrHKhwMVPmCRBR1y8AS_EAQYASABEgK5G_D_BwE

@@brewman467 just left over loose yeast and hop gunk. I think i need to update this video since my process is a bit different these days. Normally after a cip i would run hot water cip to rinse it all away. This time i just sprayed it down for the rinse.

I am still pleased with it! I am actually going to do another video soon as an “update”. I also just ordered a new base from them for sleek cans. Just waiting for the base to arrive. The seller i recommended in the video is definitely not a scammer. I know how you feel and i felt the same. Its a lot of money for aliexpress but they are legit.

They are actually spunding valves! I use them as airlocks in the beginning on the lowest setting as airlocks then twist them down to build pressure at 60% attenuation

Yep. I just added the 3” T with the 34mm on the side to the kit (along with the poly tubes). Bit more efficient in my opinion. Ive saw a video about atmospheric purging not being the greatest method.

Thanks so much! Well i over carb the beer and basically equalize it at 1.1-1.2bar and there is generally a ok amount of break out that creates foam to cap on. The duofillers have this issue where the solenoids get stuck half way and only push out foam and you have to squeeze the line to pop it open all the way. I actually dont fix it when this happens and take advantage of it to control the amount of foam that goes in first. Sounds kinda silly but it works pretty well. I wish he could force it to only open halfway but for me once it starts malfunctioning i just let it.

Jag fick dem på AliExpress. mest för rengöring och prover jag använder dem

Thanks!! Yea i mounted it that way (if you’re talking about the spool) on purpose. Just to make it easier to work with. Not enough rubbing to wear down the cord/rope.

Yep it sure does. Its a great investment. Ive had mine for about 4-5 years now and only use it for cleaning and sanitation.

So far so good! Ive done around 250-300 cans only so far but im happy with it.

Works a treat!

Du finner ikke denne gjæren noe sted. Du kan kanskje bruke S-189 eller Imperial L17 i stedet