Thanks for sharing the video. I was thinking about a change, away from my current Speidel system to a Brewtools setup. Still I am a bit confused about all the external valves and tubings, but your compact setup is definitely an inspiration.
I own a TROLL table and crane as well now, I mounted the winch upside down so the wire doesn’t touch anything but the cilinder the wire will roll up, in your setup the wire touches also a metal pipe, did you do this on purpose? Looks like I am following the instructions for assembly but your way of mounting is more convenient and I like to do the same so the handle is oriented better towards myself. Do you know it’s save to scratches cable by the metal bar? Cheers 🍻
You installed it correctly. I installed it upside down on purpose so its better oriented for use. Technically you shouldn’t have anything rubbing on the cable or spacing bars BUT i figured since the cable is more like cloth it would not cut into the spacer bar and since the spacer bar is round and smooth that while using the winch it would not move fast enough or rub enough to cut into the cable. So far so good but you are correct that mine is technically installed incorrectly. There are some videos i watched that cover this topic but they all used metallic cables and thats where you start to get significant wear and tear that could be potentially dangerous.
@@MasteringHomebrew Thanks for the advice, it was not my intention to tell you dit something wrong, let this be clear 🙂. The orientation of the handle is a struggle with the original design and manual, I will turn it upside down also now. Cheers and thanks again mate!
Awesome setup! I really like the troll system as well, can you please share some footage in a different video how the troll system works with a full basket? I am curious!!!! Cheers and thanks for sharing.🍺🍻
As usual, thank you for this great vid. Quick question after looking at your valve setup and correct my if I'm wrong but I can't see a way to go to the fermenter straight from the output of the chiller. So it means that you wait for the entire kettle to have reached pitching temp to transfer to the FV ? I'm assuming the water in Oslo is cooler than the one in Southern France but still, with the Brewtools CFC chiller it could take a while, couldn't it ?
I should have shown this more, but there is a three-way valve on the output of the chiller. I mostly have it there for emptying the chiller at the end of the brew day but you could also transfer this way as well. I normally chill the entire kettle down and do an extended whirlpool when i want my beers super clear. I don’t normally transfer directly from the chiller but now that I have a valve down there, I’d like to start to see how well it works. Thanks for watching by the way!
@@MasteringHomebrew Always a pleasure to watch ! By the way, I have used my Troll crane for a couple of brews now and the last one was with 20kg of malt in the kettle. I find that to lower it down, as long as you are "prepared" (as in for me, have a big ikea box under it), if you remove the stop lock, it doesn't go down "too" fast. At least, it is definitely manageable without any extra help.
@@frigorifix Nice. I accidentally let it go without the lock and the handle took off pretty quick and there was no way I was going to catch it so it kind of made me paranoid. That’s good to know though. I just have to go buy a few more things and then I can get a brew in on it.
@@MasteringHomebrew Well you have indeed to stand clear of the handle because it will spin like crazy, but other than that, the speed at which the malt pipe goes down is definitely not that bad
Well done! Did you just decide the three way valves are not sanitary? Beatific BV set up tho. My set up is similar - CFC is below - I really like it for cleaning, I can passively dump everything out the bottom and rinse with a hose from above.
Thank you! I didn’t really just decide it was unsanitary but if you look through the brewtools groups some people point out the shadow areas in the corners of the three-way valves where little bits of grain gets stuck for some people. It’s really hard to get it out without breaking down the three-way valve and I just really didn’t want to have to break down all the valves for cleaning since they can be a pain to get back together. This way makes it much easier to be confident in the cleanliness of the valves and makes cleaning over all easier in my mind. Brewtools has a solution coming for that though so their new solution and my set up will be a bit of a hybrid but still needs testing out. Also the butterfly valves offer a nice user experience that i happen to really enjoy. I really like the chiller on the bottom. If only there was a way to mount a HLT to this brew table then it would be perfect.
Mate, can you please give me the total height of the troll system in your case with the B80 , low table and hoist? I am figuring out if this fits underneath my vent hood😅 Inches or metric all good 👍🏼 🍻
For the HLT tank, how are you monitoring fill level when prepping for brew day. Really hoping they design a sight glass or something that indicates level.
Usually im heating the HLT water and Strike water together and then transferring it over to the HLT before mash in. Using the kettle markings as my guide.
Thanks! Yeah, it definitely needs its own pump unless the HLT is higher up above the BT pump. I’ve been using a riptide on the HLT. i’ve been begging them to make an integrated HLT into the troll cart that would fit underneath. Hopefully they make it.
@@hmmpof no its not. Generally its ok for 60L batches but for 80L batches you need a bit more sparge water. Ive been using a B40pro lately instead since it’s easier than using the mini uni. Ive been asking the guys to make a HLT that will fit under the troll cart but not sure if they have made any plans for that.
@@hmmpof i was normally heating mash and sparge water together with the overnight countdown then id transfer over to the miniuni and use the element to maintain the temp.
Mate, IF I purchase the same equipment, do you mind that I copy/steal your idea of the pipe work / plumbing? You setup make much more sense compared to the original BT solutions 🤭I still have no footage seen ( on the entire internet) of lifting and move a full malt pipe of grain and wort up and sideways. Thanks for sharing you great videos!!! Of course you have another subscriber! Cheers
@@hmmpof i got them from this interior design shop called granit. This is the link to the one i cut to size. They have others too though. www.granit.com/se/forvaringstavla-rutnat-hylla-60x100cm-svart-372654/
I would upgrade that front upside-down T-piece with 3-way ball valve. That way you can keep you pump at higher lever and ensure that the heat had been distributed more evenly. So, you bleed that flow to two ways. I hope that you got it what I'm trying to say.
Well, the whole point is to minimize the use of the three-way valves. But how is the heat not distributed more evenly? Most of the flow goes into the outside area of the basket and the flow into the basket is regulated by the position of the center butterfly valve. Generally i want less flow going into the basket and more flow around the basket. With a three-way valve in place of the tee you are restricting the flow for both entry into the basket and around the basket. The butterfly valves and tee give more flow control for every designated area. Its not possible to have a three-way valve there and have full flow around the basket and have full control of the flow going into the basket for recirculation. The pump is the highest point of most of the valves since its been moved to the right port. The only valve that the pump is below is the butterfly on the left for the wort going back into the kettle. Heat loss is very negligible here.
Thanks for sharing the video. I was thinking about a change, away from my current Speidel system to a Brewtools setup. Still I am a bit confused about all the external valves and tubings, but your compact setup is definitely an inspiration.
You’re back man!!! 🎉😎 El Master está de regreso!!
Thanks man! Moving sucks and takes waaaay longer than you think it does to settle in. Hopefully im getting some brewing in really soon!
@@MasteringHomebrew Yeah… it does 😅. Can’t wait to see your coming new brews! 🍻
I own a TROLL table and crane as well now, I mounted the winch upside down so the wire doesn’t touch anything but the cilinder the wire will roll up, in your setup the wire touches also a metal pipe, did you do this on purpose? Looks like I am following the instructions for assembly but your way of mounting is more convenient and I like to do the same so the handle is oriented better towards myself. Do you know it’s save to scratches cable by the metal bar? Cheers 🍻
You installed it correctly. I installed it upside down on purpose so its better oriented for use. Technically you shouldn’t have anything rubbing on the cable or spacing bars BUT i figured since the cable is more like cloth it would not cut into the spacer bar and since the spacer bar is round and smooth that while using the winch it would not move fast enough or rub enough to cut into the cable. So far so good but you are correct that mine is technically installed incorrectly. There are some videos i watched that cover this topic but they all used metallic cables and thats where you start to get significant wear and tear that could be potentially dangerous.
@@MasteringHomebrew Thanks for the advice, it was not my intention to tell you dit something wrong, let this be clear 🙂. The orientation of the handle is a struggle with the original design and manual, I will turn it upside down also now. Cheers and thanks again mate!
Awesome setup! I really like the troll system as well, can you please share some footage in a different video how the troll system works with a full basket? I am curious!!!! Cheers and thanks for sharing.🍺🍻
Yea definitely. I want to start up some grain to glass brew day videos again so plenty more to come! 🍻
As usual, thank you for this great vid.
Quick question after looking at your valve setup and correct my if I'm wrong but I can't see a way to go to the fermenter straight from the output of the chiller. So it means that you wait for the entire kettle to have reached pitching temp to transfer to the FV ?
I'm assuming the water in Oslo is cooler than the one in Southern France but still, with the Brewtools CFC chiller it could take a while, couldn't it ?
I should have shown this more, but there is a three-way valve on the output of the chiller. I mostly have it there for emptying the chiller at the end of the brew day but you could also transfer this way as well. I normally chill the entire kettle down and do an extended whirlpool when i want my beers super clear. I don’t normally transfer directly from the chiller but now that I have a valve down there, I’d like to start to see how well it works. Thanks for watching by the way!
@@MasteringHomebrew
Always a pleasure to watch !
By the way, I have used my Troll crane for a couple of brews now and the last one was with 20kg of malt in the kettle.
I find that to lower it down, as long as you are "prepared" (as in for me, have a big ikea box under it), if you remove the stop lock, it doesn't go down "too" fast. At least, it is definitely manageable without any extra help.
@@frigorifix Nice. I accidentally let it go without the lock and the handle took off pretty quick and there was no way I was going to catch it so it kind of made me paranoid. That’s good to know though. I just have to go buy a few more things and then I can get a brew in on it.
@@MasteringHomebrew Well you have indeed to stand clear of the handle because it will spin like crazy, but other than that, the speed at which the malt pipe goes down is definitely not that bad
Well done! Did you just decide the three way valves are not sanitary? Beatific BV set up tho. My set up is similar - CFC is below - I really like it for cleaning, I can passively dump everything out the bottom and rinse with a hose from above.
Thank you! I didn’t really just decide it was unsanitary but if you look through the brewtools groups some people point out the shadow areas in the corners of the three-way valves where little bits of grain gets stuck for some people. It’s really hard to get it out without breaking down the three-way valve and I just really didn’t want to have to break down all the valves for cleaning since they can be a pain to get back together. This way makes it much easier to be confident in the cleanliness of the valves and makes cleaning over all easier in my mind. Brewtools has a solution coming for that though so their new solution and my set up will be a bit of a hybrid but still needs testing out. Also the butterfly valves offer a nice user experience that i happen to really enjoy. I really like the chiller on the bottom. If only there was a way to mount a HLT to this brew table then it would be perfect.
Mate, can you please give me the total height of the troll system in your case with the B80 , low table and hoist? I am figuring out if this fits underneath my vent hood😅 Inches or metric all good 👍🏼 🍻
I have mine set up I think on the highest point but I’m not 100% sure. I am coming in just under 206cm from the floor to the top of the boom
Thanks! Still, that's good news for me I guess! I really appropriate your answer on this. Cheers 🍺 @@MasteringHomebrew
For the HLT tank, how are you monitoring fill level when prepping for brew day. Really hoping they design a sight glass or something that indicates level.
Usually im heating the HLT water and Strike water together and then transferring it over to the HLT before mash in. Using the kettle markings as my guide.
Nice setup. Does the HLT need it‘s own pump or can the BT „pull“ in the water from there?
Thanks! Yeah, it definitely needs its own pump unless the HLT is higher up above the BT pump. I’ve been using a riptide on the HLT. i’ve been begging them to make an integrated HLT into the troll cart that would fit underneath. Hopefully they make it.
is a Uni 30 sufficient spare water if brewing a full batch (80 liters)
@@hmmpof no its not. Generally its ok for 60L batches but for 80L batches you need a bit more sparge water. Ive been using a B40pro lately instead since it’s easier than using the mini uni. Ive been asking the guys to make a HLT that will fit under the troll cart but not sure if they have made any plans for that.
@@MasteringHomebrew yes I can can imagine. Only 500 watts must take forvever to heat up?
@@hmmpof i was normally heating mash and sparge water together with the overnight countdown then id transfer over to the miniuni and use the element to maintain the temp.
Mate, IF I purchase the same equipment, do you mind that I copy/steal your idea of the pipe work / plumbing? You setup make much more sense compared to the original BT solutions 🤭I still have no footage seen ( on the entire internet) of lifting and move a full malt pipe of grain and wort up and sideways. Thanks for sharing you great videos!!! Of course you have another subscriber! Cheers
I have some malt arriving at the end of this week so ill get some beers brewed up here soon! Steal away!
Where did you get the wire grid from?
@@hmmpof i got them from this interior design shop called granit. This is the link to the one i cut to size. They have others too though.
www.granit.com/se/forvaringstavla-rutnat-hylla-60x100cm-svart-372654/
Tusinde tak
I would upgrade that front upside-down T-piece with 3-way ball valve. That way you can keep you pump at higher lever and ensure that the heat had been distributed more evenly. So, you bleed that flow to two ways. I hope that you got it what I'm trying to say.
Well, the whole point is to minimize the use of the three-way valves. But how is the heat not distributed more evenly? Most of the flow goes into the outside area of the basket and the flow into the basket is regulated by the position of the center butterfly valve. Generally i want less flow going into the basket and more flow around the basket. With a three-way valve in place of the tee you are restricting the flow for both entry into the basket and around the basket. The butterfly valves and tee give more flow control for every designated area. Its not possible to have a three-way valve there and have full flow around the basket and have full control of the flow going into the basket for recirculation. The pump is the highest point of most of the valves since its been moved to the right port. The only valve that the pump is below is the butterfly on the left for the wort going back into the kettle. Heat loss is very negligible here.