Awesome stuff ! I wonder about that : I'm currently doing 65L batch with my B80 and expecting my F80 at some point this summer. I usually ferment in 3 FV, keg and carb up before canning one keg. With this set up, how would you transfer into the kegs ? Some sort of counter pressure in the keg to avoid foaming ? Or just a regular fill from the out post, releasing the PRV now and then ?
Hi! It all depends on the temperature, pressure and carbonation levels. I usually shoot for 2.7vol of co2 with a temp of 5°C with a filling pressure of 1.4bar
@@MasteringHomebrew Hi, 2,7 vol of co2 are around 5,3 g/l Co2... @ 5C you would need around 1 bar of pressure to reach this level of carbonation, your filling pressure is set to 1,4 bar ... How did you calculate the filling pressure ?
@@Baize85 i mostly use this pressure because its the pressure that universally works well (generally speaking) with the DuoFiller that creates the best amount of foam for capping on with minimal co2 break out. I didn’t calculate it on paper but with extensive testing with the DuoFiller can filler. I usually spund my beers at 1-1.2BAR to have them slightly over carbed to compensate for the break out that does happen. Trial and error basically.
Again. Thanks for another great video. I’m in the us, but I’m a Norwegian citizen. I’ve gotten my hands on a Cannular, but can seam to figure out if the 250w 24v Anderson socket bought here in the us will work in Norway? Do you have any idea?
Thanks! Im not sure if the usa power brick will work here but im sure if you just buy a power supply here it will be fine for the seamer since its just a universal anderson socket that powers it
@@MasteringHomebrew Thank you so much for your help. Found out. It’s works for both 110-230v. One more thing. We’re did you get your hands on those glass see through cans?
I did dry hop this beer. After cold crashing a larger filter was not necessary. This is a blonde ale. Even with my last keg hopped IPA this filter was just fine. DuoFiller sells a more robust one and i think i heard brewtools is releasing something soon when it come to filters.
Great video! I've really enjoyed it. Just a question, do you force carbonate on the unitank? If so, don't you loose carbonation while you don't close the cann?
Yes. This time i didnt have a carb stone but my next beer in the unitank will be spunded and then using a carb stone to finish it off. This one i was able to spund mostly and it finished up carbing over the last week under pressure just hooked up to co2 Also no i dont loose much carbonation.
Hi, I notice a brother printer in the video. Does this work well for labels for cans for you? Would you recommend or are there any other solutions that could be considered? Thanks
Its pretty good. I use it mostly for qr codes now. Not really practical for making many labels. Great for making labels for gift six packs and such. The rolls are kinda expensive.
I dont sanitize cans. Your ph should be low enough for nothing to survive. Sometimes ill do the lids but normally i dont. Good way to add unwanted o2. Maybe a burst of air to “rinse” the cardboard out of the can before filling sometimes. Ive never had an issues myself the last few years. I asked a local brewery if they sanitized and they just laughed
Love your work I'm asking my Brew on it this weekend Question unless I missed it when did you use the carb stone to carbonate the beer in the tank or you did it another method sorry if I missed it
I didnt use one this time. Simply because i did not have one. I just got one two days ago or so. I used the spunding valve. I shut it with .004-.005 gravity points left so the beer would carb itself. then i hooked up the co2 tank to the blow off cane to keep constant pressure for a week while it finished up carbing
@@MasteringHomebrew wow nice work Oh ok yeh I'm still waiting for the spunding valve so using a hose with water bucket So it took 1 week to Carb that way did it come out Spot on looked perfect
Cheers for the reply. Also did you make the perspex doors for the cannular and where do you get the clear cans from. You have some great ideas. Cheers Mark
@@markjasjew2503 thanks! The doors are actually made from the cannular splash guard sold by kegland. I added the hinges and an extra cut to size panel. I ended up drilling into the body and attacing it that way since i didnt like how it sat on the machine. Clear cans i found on aliExpress. If you search “PET cans” a bunch show up and I just picked the one with the best reviews. The short one is made of glass though.
Sorry I just got the new gen 2 filler today. The sensor mode is new to this generation of fillers i think. The one im using in this video is gen 1 DuoFiller. Im setting the new one up now so hopefully a new video in the works this week.
Great video! I noticed you shook your first can. What does that do and do you do that after each beer is sealed? Should there always be a bit of foam on top before you put the lid on? We have what seems to be perfectly carbed beer but after canning opens a bit flatter. Cheers!
Thank you! I usually shake the cans to test the seam to make sure its not leaking. Just a habit i formed over the years. You should always be capping on a healthy head of foam. This will ensure no oxygen is present in the headspace after seaming. It’s important to note that the lid should only be pressed on top of the can as it is engaging into the seamers lid chuck. When it comes to carbonation it is recommended that the beer be equalized at 0.8BAR but i like to go a touch higher. 0.9-1BAR so what ever is lost during the fill doesn’t effect it too much. Im filling at 1.4BAR usually.
Fantastic videos, you have a new subscriber from Spain. Tusen Takk!!!
Awesome stuff !
I wonder about that : I'm currently doing 65L batch with my B80 and expecting my F80 at some point this summer. I usually ferment in 3 FV, keg and carb up before canning one keg.
With this set up, how would you transfer into the kegs ? Some sort of counter pressure in the keg to avoid foaming ? Or just a regular fill from the out post, releasing the PRV now and then ?
Any tips on how to purge the liquid line that goes from the unitank to the filler? Cheers!
I’ll have to refer you to my other video when I canned the NEIPA - fast forward to the six minute mark
ruclips.net/video/EIPJ9fWHtGw/видео.html
Hi, i have a question, how do you control de foam in the duofiller? i have a one on this and my drink have a lot of foam.
Hi! It all depends on the temperature, pressure and carbonation levels. I usually shoot for 2.7vol of co2 with a temp of 5°C with a filling pressure of 1.4bar
@@MasteringHomebrew Hi, 2,7 vol of co2 are around 5,3 g/l Co2... @ 5C you would need around 1 bar of pressure to reach this level of carbonation, your filling pressure is set to 1,4 bar ... How did you calculate the filling pressure ?
@@Baize85 i mostly use this pressure because its the pressure that universally works well (generally speaking) with the DuoFiller that creates the best amount of foam for capping on with minimal co2 break out. I didn’t calculate it on paper but with extensive testing with the DuoFiller can filler. I usually spund my beers at 1-1.2BAR to have them slightly over carbed to compensate for the break out that does happen. Trial and error basically.
@@MasteringHomebrew ok i see, thanks, i will try that as well next time to go around 0,2 to 0,4 above spunding pressure ...
Again. Thanks for another great video. I’m in the us, but I’m a Norwegian citizen. I’ve gotten my hands on a Cannular, but can seam to figure out if the 250w 24v Anderson socket bought here in the us will work in Norway? Do you have any idea?
Thanks! Im not sure if the usa power brick will work here but im sure if you just buy a power supply here it will be fine for the seamer since its just a universal anderson socket that powers it
@@MasteringHomebrew Thanks. That’s what I thought and was hoping for. There’s nothing that says that 24v bought in the US would not work in Norway.
@@MasteringHomebrew Thank you so much for your help. Found out. It’s works for both 110-230v. One more thing. We’re did you get your hands on those glass see through cans?
@@81Elbow nice! I ordered them on aliExpress. Tons of vendors to pick from.
You dont dry hop in your fermenter ?
Because I got the f150 and looking a solution to filter and yours are very mall. Thank you !
I did dry hop this beer. After cold crashing a larger filter was not necessary. This is a blonde ale. Even with my last keg hopped IPA this filter was just fine. DuoFiller sells a more robust one and i think i heard brewtools is releasing something soon when it come to filters.
@Andre van Gijsel hoprod garage had asked about it on a post recently and brewtools replied “soon” or something to that effect. Thats all i know.
Great video! I've really enjoyed it. Just a question, do you force carbonate on the unitank? If so, don't you loose carbonation while you don't close the cann?
Yes. This time i didnt have a carb stone but my next beer in the unitank will be spunded and then using a carb stone to finish it off. This one i was able to spund mostly and it finished up carbing over the last week under pressure just hooked up to co2
Also no i dont loose much carbonation.
Hi, I notice a brother printer in the video. Does this work well for labels for cans for you? Would you recommend or are there any other solutions that could be considered? Thanks
Its pretty good. I use it mostly for qr codes now. Not really practical for making many labels. Great for making labels for gift six packs and such. The rolls are kinda expensive.
great video, thank you!
Great setup. I wish i had dedicated space !
I still can’t believe i was able to convince my wife to let me go this far 😂
@@MasteringHomebrew I know what your talking about lol
Your vidéo, it's à dream for me 😇 !!
At 5', i'm interresting by your Black fiilter. Who is dealer ?
Thanks
Thanks! The little black filter is sold by Duofiller and it comes with the can filler
@@MasteringHomebrew
cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0516/1697/2967/products/inch-size-filter-100-mesh-5-16-x-5-16_056f918f-2c36-445f-9bfc-570fc739ef2c_470x.jpg?v=1610661691
Perfect, thanks for answer 😉
Hi, How do yo actually sanitize cans? Rinse after that?
I dont sanitize cans. Your ph should be low enough for nothing to survive. Sometimes ill do the lids but normally i dont. Good way to add unwanted o2. Maybe a burst of air to “rinse” the cardboard out of the can before filling sometimes. Ive never had an issues myself the last few years. I asked a local brewery if they sanitized and they just laughed
@@MasteringHomebrew Thanks for answering 🙌
Love your work
I'm asking my Brew on it this weekend
Question unless I missed it when did you use the carb stone to carbonate the beer in the tank or you did it another method sorry if I missed it
I didnt use one this time. Simply because i did not have one. I just got one two days ago or so. I used the spunding valve. I shut it with .004-.005 gravity points left so the beer would carb itself. then i hooked up the co2 tank to the blow off cane to keep constant pressure for a week while it finished up carbing
@@MasteringHomebrew wow nice work
Oh ok yeh I'm still waiting for the spunding valve so using a hose with water bucket
So it took 1 week to Carb that way did it come out Spot on looked perfect
Hi
Where did you get the sight glass with the quick disconnect
Everything Unitank related came from Brewtools website
Cheers for the reply.
Also did you make the perspex doors for the cannular and where do you get the clear cans from.
You have some great ideas.
Cheers
Mark
@@markjasjew2503 thanks! The doors are actually made from the cannular splash guard sold by kegland. I added the hinges and an extra cut to size panel. I ended up drilling into the body and attacing it that way since i didnt like how it sat on the machine.
Clear cans i found on aliExpress. If you search “PET cans” a bunch show up and I just picked the one with the best reviews. The short one is made of glass though.
Do you have your Duo filler in the sensor mode or programmed stop fill mode?
I set the fill level on the first cans and it auto stops when the liquid level is reached.
Sorry I just got the new gen 2 filler today. The sensor mode is new to this generation of fillers i think. The one im using in this video is gen 1 DuoFiller. Im setting the new one up now so hopefully a new video in the works this week.
Was the uni tank still at 20psi when you were filling the cans? Have the same set up but with ss brewtech uni tanks.
Scrub that just seen the last frame where you show the pressure!
Have you built it yourself or can you buy it somewhere./ Lasse
The duo filler is available at duofiller.no and brewshop.no I believe.
@@MasteringHomebrew tack 🙏
Heisann. Hvor får man tak i de gjennomsiktige boksene ?
AliExpress. Søk “PET Cans”
a.aliexpress.com/_mqzI80E
Takk
Great video! I noticed you shook your first can. What does that do and do you do that after each beer is sealed? Should there always be a bit of foam on top before you put the lid on? We have what seems to be perfectly carbed beer but after canning opens a bit flatter. Cheers!
Thank you! I usually shake the cans to test the seam to make sure its not leaking. Just a habit i formed over the years. You should always be capping on a healthy head of foam. This will ensure no oxygen is present in the headspace after seaming. It’s important to note that the lid should only be pressed on top of the can as it is engaging into the seamers lid chuck.
When it comes to carbonation it is recommended that the beer be equalized at 0.8BAR but i like to go a touch higher. 0.9-1BAR so what ever is lost during the fill doesn’t effect it too much. Im filling at 1.4BAR usually.
Help me for my setup
How much does it cost of a can of beer?
Full or empty? Empty it about $0.12 and full maybe $0.50 - $2. It depends on the beer and the amount brewed.