Dry Hopping, Filtering & Canning My NEIPA from the Brewtools F80 Unitank
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 29 ноя 2024
- Just a quick-ish video on how i dry hopped, filtered and canned my NEIPA from my Brewtools F80 Unitank.
UPDATE: 3 months after this canning run i sent the last few cans of the bunch to a local brewery to have my TPO/DO levels measured and the beer put through an antonPaar Alex500 to measure alcohol content, FG and nutritional information.
I was first contacted by the brewery about my DO numbers. It almost seemed like they didnt want to belive it - 12PPB - they said they are at 10-12PPM from the crash tank to the bright tank and end up in the mid 30s by the time its in the can. Since I'm uni directly to can they had no doubt in the incredibly low reading but initially thought their instruments were not properly calibrated. They were impressed, which in turn made my opinion of the DuoFiller that much higher.
Watching professional people play with equipment that's way out of my price range is just so much fun. Thanks for the high quality video!
That filter looks awesome!
Stunning equipment!
That hardly looks like a home brewing setup
Thanks again for some more brilliant stuff !
Ciao bellissimo video, volevo chiederti un consiglio visto che ho preso da poco F40. quando usi il filtro ho visto che prima metti Co2 poi la spurghi, poi attacchi per infustare , è dallo stesso ball lock che prendi la birra? Hi, great video, I wanted to ask you for advice since I recently took F40. when you use the filter I saw that first you put in Co2 then you purge it, then you attach it to keg, is it from the same ball lock that you take the beer?
Yes same ball lock will fit co2
Hey, great video. I have just got a duo filler and can seamer. Where did you get the clear can shaped glasses from. They look great to set the level up. Thanks
Thanks! Well they are actually PET “cans” and are not glass. I got them off of aliexpress. Here is a link. I also found glass cans too from another seller. They are great for cleaning too.
a.aliexpress.com/_mO2c30k
@@MasteringHomebrew Thanks very much, I will take a look and get something sorted out
Looks good. the plan is to buy these fermenters for my brewery. Where do you get the plastic clear cans. They look good for the duofiller (which I have)
Thanks! I got them off of aliexpress. They sell them very cheap. The link i used is dead now but here is another that is exactly the same.
They are great for cleaning and getting things going.
a.aliexpress.com/_m09bEhu
Would this filtersetup work combined with a miniuni+? Is the filtration a requirement for the duofiller?
I've read on the website you can also bottle with this duofiller. Any experience bottling a heavy hopped / ultra sensitive for oxidation beer with this filler?
Yea it would work with a reducer since the filter is 2”. When this video was made it was with the gen 1 duofiller that required a filter because of the valve style used was different. The newer one doesnt require it i think ive read but is recommended. Ive only filled some flip top bottles with it for a night out and not a full packaging run ment to last. Im only using it for canning.
I need that ball lock TC piece.
Awesome setup! What does the metabisulfate do for you?
Thanks! Im hoping it will scavenge any o2 that the hops bring to the party. Also as a color preservative just in case there is a bit of oxidation it doesn’t start to turn brown. Helps with stability to a certain extent too. This was fermented with a Diastaticus yeast so stability is kind of relative i guess.
@@MasteringHomebrew just means you can't give your beer to asthmatics
@@b00gn1sh666 haha its fine. I am one actually! Severe too. Much higher amounts are used in various foods & wine. Now if I was to inhale the powder before adding it then we would have a major issues. also if I was using the amounts some vineyards use there could be a potential for it. The amounts used in beer are so small that double blind studies indicate that the effects are negligible when it comes to low-medium amounts in food.
Where did you find that pull release tri-clamp fitting? I can't seem to find it anywhere
Awesome video by the way
I would recommend this one!
www.brewtools.com/products/valves-and-fittings/fittings/tc34mm-pull-type-prv-7mm-barb-manual-prv-with-hose-barb-7712954-p0000000658
It looks as if you've assembled your own hop drop kit rather than use the stock Brewtools one. With the co2 entering at the bottom of the fitting I think yours is probably better [co2 heavier than air].
Yep. I just added the 3” T with the 34mm on the side to the kit (along with the poly tubes). Bit more efficient in my opinion. Ive saw a video about atmospheric purging not being the greatest method.
who makes the filter setup you where using? i like the fact its clear.
Made by Brewtools. They call it the inline filter kit
@@MasteringHomebrew have you found a cheaper or alternative filter that is cheaper? I found it for $230 from more beer. How vital do you think it is to have it transparent?
@@omnitouchbb2408 the transparency is convenient - not essential but it does really help when the flow stops from heavy hopping and helps identify clogs quickly. Ive never seen anything similar AND cheaper. Its pricey but worth it id say. I’ve enjoyed it very much.
@@MasteringHomebrew thanks for the replies. I am a process guy by trade picking up brewing pretty quickly. Would be interested in seeing a video about you wash and store yeast. That will be my next adventure to come.
@@omnitouchbb2408 nice. Washing isnt really necessary. It depletes the yeast of necessary nutrients. There is some great literature out there on washing vs rinsing. Best of luck. The rabbit hole goes deeeeep.
hi. very cool set-up. I don't get what the spiral does for the sample taking...why the spiral?
Thanks so much! The spiral is known officially as a proof coil but more commonly referred to as a pig tail. Its purpose is to reduce foam from the sample valve by creating a bit of resistance once the beer is fully carbed. It’s a lot easier to pour a full glass directly from the tank using it. More co2 stays in solution too so you can get a better idea of what is going into the can/bottle/keg.
Hey there. Just wondering, why you reliefed the pressure out of the filter. Wouldn't it make more sense to keep the same pressure as in the tank to avoid foaming?
If you think you have purged the filter completely of oxygen then yes this would make sense. I only like to produce foam before pressurizing the filter to make sure the filter is fully purged first. I am a bit paranoid about the space between the PRV and the orifice that holds the dip tube so i like to overflow foam out of the filters prv to push out any potential o2 i missed. I feel a lot better about the foam bubbles floating back up and in to the tank vs a bubble i made with my co2 tank. This has become increasingly less messy with the release of the PRV barbed blow off fitting recently. I have not tried it yet though. Maybe I’m just paranoid and its a bit over kill but it helps me sleep at night.
@@MasteringHomebrew well, 0 oxygen is never reactable of course. But what is quite easy to calculate, 1bar overpressure results in half oxygen after pressure relieve to ambient pressure. But yeah, first ours needs to arrive before I can talk about our procedure and what we experienced;)
Great setup, thanks for sharing your workflow! I was wondering how long does the duofiller take to pour 330/440/500 cans (excluding purging time)? Do you need to reset/addjust the pouring levels every time you want to use it?
Hi! I’d recommend going to my other video linked below and fast forwarding to the 5:40 mark. This shows the real time pouring speed for a 330mL can. You only need to reset the filling level when changing can sizes. It’s really simple a not too much of a hassle. Having clear can shaped glasses that are marked with the appropriate volume markings really help a lot. Its not super fast but you can increase pressure to fill faster but this will result in less foam to cap on.
ruclips.net/video/NDdM0OH8F9g/видео.html
@@MasteringHomebrew that is fantastic, thank you so much for answering!
@@AntonPuzorjov no problem :) sorry for the kinda late reply!
Hello mate, nice video.
Can you please elaborate on how did you carbonate that beer?
Hi thanks! This beer was carbed with the spunding valve about half the way and then i topped it off with the Carbonation Stone to get it the rest of the way there. This was done the day prior to this video being filmed if I remember correctly. I normally just use a combination of spunding + head pressure these days unless im in a hurry.
Which product do you use to sanitize pour duofiller Line ? Starsan?
Yep
How can you connect the co2 connector and the beer connector to the same bit? Isn’t it normally one or the other eg on a keg.
I find the grey or gas connecter can work on either gas or liquid post. But not liquid, it only works on liquid.
Do you need that top extension? Looks like you could get the lot in the T section.
Anything more than 200g needs a little more space. I could have probably compacted it down into the T but since i added hop oil too i didnt want it to get mushy and get stuck more than it already did.
@@MasteringHomebrew loved the caning process. Looks really well setup
Awesome setup! What is the interior diameter of the elbow you attached to the dump valve?
Thank you! The elbow used for the dumping is 34mm (3/4”) TC
How buy whit the filtered tool? Where can I buy it？
Is this still the way you use the filter? Seems kind of messy.
Kinda but in a much cleaner way. Im actually surprised you were able to watch this video since i unlisted it due to the RUclips copyright muting of the audio. 🤔 I made an updated video using the filter and canning a pilsner a couple weeks ago. Here is the link.
ruclips.net/video/ODK7rFqIEHU/видео.htmlsi=q9iDuEKpfYVcPvS3
This seems...excessive. 😂 Fascinating video. The clean up alone makes me feel sick.
I'm having trouble with my DuoFiller - what temp/pressure did you hold the Unitank at ? And for how long before canning ?
I can around 4°-5°C usually. I carb and maintain a pressure of 0.8bar and set my packaging day pressure at 1.3-1.5bar normally. Usually let it sit a week.
Pirlo! Incredibile!
I am confused to why you are drawing so much hop trub. Are you not using the adjustable racking valve dip tube on the conical side port? During fermentation, hop additions etc, have the dip tube oriented downward toward the bottom of the tank slightly to prevent yeast/hop material from dropping out and collecting in the tube. Once cold crashed, burst some co2 through carb stone to clear it, allow beer to clarify, and drop your cone out of the bottom dump valve till runs clear beer (may take multiple tries, if you end up punching a hole in the cone). When you are happy that you got the majority of everything out, turn the racking valve dip tube upward toward the top of the tank, and pull some beer out to clear the dip tube of any sediment that did get trapped. (Not to waste any beer, could use this beer to taste, and do final gravity, pH, analysis off of if you are into data collecting :) Then carbonate as to your process, and once happy with Carb levels, draw out of the dip tube, adjusting the dip tube downward until you start seeing the beer not running clear (as you are now in sediment layer that may be remaining. Then back the dip tube back upward slightly until runs clear again, now you are running clear beer just above sediment line, getting every drop of that gold out hahaha. Could still use filter to catch anything residual, in the flow if the filter is fine enough to catch anything, but maybe put the filter on after purging and running clear, so there is less load on the filter through out. Cheers bud!
What’s shown in the filter towards the end of the video is only from when the beer ran out and sucked in whatever was on the sides im assuming. There is a shot at 13:49 that shows the filter as it was for most of the canning run. I used only LUPOMAX hops and hop oil concentrates in this brew and the LUPOMAX is a pain in the butt to get out and filter and even dump sometimes. It all worked out great though. Got my first lab results back for this beer yesterday actually. 12PPB O2 levels! Insane!
Also thanks so much for watching and the feedback! Forgot to add that bit 😅
Did you carbonate the beer first before filling the cans with your dualfiller or was that not necessary with this? Beer looks very tasty ;-)
Thank you! The beer was already halfway carbed once it finished fermenting so it was topped off with the carb stone to get it the rest of the way there if I remember correctly before I made this video.
Hi, could you let me know the complete height wir the hop drop kit on top? Thanks!
What PSI do you have the tank at for the transfer?
I fill between 1.2-1.4BAR (17-20ish psi) generally speaking. This has a lot to do with the line size and length from the tank to the filler though. i think its like 2 meters of 5/16” beer line from the filter to the filler to fill as fast as possible while maintaining enough balance to prevent any turbulence. To keg’s it’s the same if i remember correctly. I havent kegged a beer in over a year so i cant remember exactly how i was doing it. I also have switched to single use kegs that are counter pressure filled. I have another video on that.
@@MasteringHomebrew great thanks for the info. I'm currently kegging from my F40 but want to start canning. What temp do you have it at for canning? For my kegging i just have it at 7c 15psi and burp the keg throughout to avoid too much foaming.
@@theculturebrewingchannel5619 I usually can anywhere between 2°C to 10°C without any major issues. This also depends on the beer too. The higher the carb level the lower the temp should be so co2 doesn’t break completely out of solution. Essentially pouring the beer twice so you want a little extra carbonation on top which can make the fill tricky sometimes (for example saisons)
Can you tell me how to prevent oxidation with the duofiller? I have now canned neipa twice, but I notice that after two weeks the beer is oxidised.
Well I would need to know some more information. What are you canning from? Kegs? Or directly from a unitank? Do you have the CO2 purge set to the maximum amount? What psi are you purging at? Using SMB for o2 scavenging? I’m not really a NEIPA expert but in my experiences you only get 1 transfer with NEIPA. i keep that transfer from the unitank to the can. Capping on a healthy head of overflowing foam is essential as well.
@@MasteringHomebrew Thank you for your answer! I connect the Duofiller directly to the unitank, before that of course everything is sanitized. Last time, I had the pressure in the unit tank slightly below 1 bar, but I didn't really get a foaming layer in my cans, maybe it was too cold for that or that the pressure was too low, I don't know exactly. The purging itself I did around half a bar for the standard 6 seconds. It remains a nice process of trial and error ;-)
What filter size are you using?
@@TheKimJohansen im always using the finest one they have. I can’t remember what the micron is off the top of my head. Smallest holes one haha
@@MasteringHomebrew Thanks for the quick answer. Does it clog up with the dry hops?
@ Ive not had it happen personally. I usually dump the dry hops before i start the best i can a day before packaging. Sometimes same day. Depends on the beer and amounts i added.
That sems like a LOT of SMB.
Love the videos!
Hi, I love those can looking like glasses. Where did you get those? thanks
I got them from aliExpress! Here is the link
a.aliexpress.com/_m0gI5dc
What did the beer taste like?
Very juicy! Heres the recipe if you’re interested
share.brewfather.app/g0j4nrSu5jx7Qx
@@MasteringHomebrew
Thanks for that - Australia is a bit of mess but beer is still being made in people's homes.
Cheers mate.
(I dont think I have ever used so much hops in a recipe - 860 grams in 60L)
Nice content you make, can look at it for hours ;-) At 1 minute I see that you add sodium metabisulfite to your hops. I assume you are doing this for oxygen scavenger? Did you get any noticeable results with this?
Thanks! I dont really ever notice it but it gives me peace of mind. I am in fact doing it to scavenge any sneaky O2. I dont believe anything is ever truly purged so its a good way to cover my bases i like to think.
@@MasteringHomebrewHow much do you add per Liter.
@@africantwin173 i use 1 gram to 60L for a large dry hop or when im adding purees. Crushed up.
What super secret!?
This is very much like those espresso machine geeks who blow several thousand dollars on a paddle two-group double boiler machine and post high-production value videos on RUclips of them pulling shots and when asked they admit that they don't even drink coffee. Lol.
Hahaha yea. I do actually drink my beers though but i must admit i drink way more coffee than beer. I try not to turn myself into an alcoholic so a large portion is usually given away. I enjoy the process just as much as the beers.
Why is there so much silence in this video?
Probably the Copyright silencing when the old royalty free music becomes licensed music. If you think its unwatchable ill pull it down.
Edit: i pulled it down after watching it.
What temp are you getting your unitank down to?
Im usually canning between 4-6°C but i have gotten it as low as 1°C during cold crashing
"Homebrewing"... bruh, this is micromicro brewing when you've spent that kind of money.
Haha well… im in my house! 😂
Man the music is beyond annoying, had to watch the video in multiple sessions. Please next time no music or music that isn't as boring and repetitive as this. Good stuff otherwise!
Haha yea sorry about that! It’s impossible to find ok royalty free music that wont get flagged. Unfortunately this music was flagged anyhow and i also find it super annoying. Thanks though! I will keep it in mind next time!