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Search for ‎5014212AA RU1061 CR160 at Amazon, or Rock Auto.

No, the flange at the transfer case accepts the flange on the drive shaft. This one replaced in the video was an eBay special and failed after two years. Junk yard ones are also probably well worn. I ended up replacing it with one off of Amazon from USA Standard Gear and it seems like very good quality. So far, so good.

Thanks! Enjoy your Jeep life!

Frrame mounting bolts, 30 ft/lbs. Link connections 45 ft/lbs.

Tjats for your question. Ball joints could squeak when turning. My bet would be one of the following though: axle drive shaft u-joints, tie rod ends, or yes, possibly the ball joints. If it came from Pennsylvania, I would suggest that salt from winter driving has made components very rusty. I would disassemble the front suspension and repair replace worn parts. It sounds difficult, but its really not. Best bet might be to join a local jeep club and find someone willing to help you out.

Many thanks for the replay!

thanks for the REPLY, NOT REPLAY!

This is either a bad switch, no power toncircuit (check fuse), or the blower motor itself has failed.

@@jimsjeeps9782 i hear different sound on the fan/speed, but i don't feel from the ventilation or how to explain. And it doesen't matter if i pick window, feet or face.

WIX 58707 is the kit I used.

Did you seal it with some gasket adhesive or just put it on and screwed it in?

Yes, you probably have a newer trans. This is an older 3speed auto. Pretty bulletproof. The process is pretty much the same to drop trans pan and change fluid filter. Thanks for the comment!

​@jimsjeeps9782 do you guys have a link to the kit? or do I just get it off autozone??

Go through and see if this video helps. If the compressor failed, then you need a new one. Check fuses too.

Thanks!

It may be rtv'ed in from the factory... Go slow and possibly drill a small hole in the old seal and use a sheet metal screw to grab into it and yank in out... don't try to pry in the case...or yes, you could damage it...

You're welcome! Hope it helped!

ATF+4 ...absolutley! Change filter, and as you do that inspect the pad and magnet carefully. Sad to say you might have a bad 2-3 pack issue. You might try to adjust the bands too, but I'd leave that to a professional trans shop. I will say the auto trans in these Jeeps are pretty bulletproof. Let me know how it turns ou!

@@jimsjeeps9782thanks for the reply Jim! I hope it won’t cost an arm and a leg 🤞

You need to change mechanics because your current one doesn't know about Jeeps.

WIX Filters - 58707 Automatic Transmission Filter, Pack of 1 a.co/d/aruhL3n

Probably a stuck float in the carb. Did it run ok after that? I would check the ignition system too. If it ran fine before, then it could be bad distributor or plug wires. The fact that it had enough fuel to catch fire tells me it has gotten too much fuel... most likely a stuck float in carburetor.

Agree... but, it's what we have...

Thanks. More videos coming soon. It's been a while and I am getting ready to get back at it!

@@jimsjeeps9782 had a broken heli coil on one of the bolt holes did not do it so shimmed the bolt with a piece of wire no leaks. Got it marked so can get it fixed need fluid change. Video helped alot.

On the fuel injection, pull the pump relay (under hood fuse block). For the 4.2 248, pull the fuel line from tank at the mechanical pump... let engine start until fuel runs out of carb bowl... to be sure it won't start on fumes, after it cuts off, pull coil wire.

It looks intimidating, but just go slow. It's not really that difficult. I'd say 2-3 hours if all goes smoothly. Biggest issue is to make sure to torque in proper sequence...same for intake/exhausr manifold. Good luck!!

No. Maybe not the best practice, but has not hurt anything so far in 30 years...

You are welcome... The '87 if I recall correctly was 1) First model year, and 2) Transition from Jeep/AMC to Chrysler/Renault... It should still be a Dana 30 though..... I'll see what I can find out.

You are correct. I thought the same thing with the conversion from Amc to Chrysler. I got a couple seals coming. I dont know it the crown 83500199 is the correct one or not. Thanks for your help

You are welcome! Thanks for watching.

Thanks! and you are welcome!!

I have made the mistake of pushing the wrong way... make sure direction of push is correct. They are a tight fit, but should eventually move....

I managed to remove the knuckle on the passenger side where both ball joints were shot, the top one really badly it’s rod moving up/down…Will press new BJ in tomorrow.. Thanks for posting this info.. @@jimsjeeps9782

Thanks. Good luck with it.

Great! Glad it helped you out.

24ft/lbs on the flange bolts and 15-30ft/lbs on the ujoint strap bolts.

@@jimsjeeps9782 ok awesome thank you i wound up looking it up. But i couldn’t find an exact answer for the one with a u joint and cv joint. Thats the flange correct

Agree! That is a 1984 CJ7 that will eventually be rebuilt. Frame is gone. Bought it mostly for the VIN... It WILL see the outdoors again soon... Until then, yes, unfortunately it is a garage catch-all. 😀

Ivan, go to Rock Auto and search there. They have great name brand parts for a good price. Also, a local part store should be able to help too. I personally like NAPA and Advance Auto. You will pay a little more at these retail places, but sometimes they have stuff in stock. Let me know how it works out!

@jimsjeeps9782 Thank you so much! I will check it out:)

Hello France and Herve! Yes, you can simply replace the ine shock. Because these are "coil over axle" suspensions, the shock merely dampens the bounce. So, yes, all things considered, you can replace just one. If the others are worn, replace them though or you will get a bouncy ride and bad tire wear. Hope this helps! Cheers!

Most gaskets don't need RTV. Not sure why everyone thinks that... I've seen some real crazy applications!

@@jimsjeeps9782 probably because the valve cover gasket, and oil pan gasket on these appreciate a little bit in certain spots. Thanks again

Yep...very common problem...not too hard to fix 99% chance it's the ground.

Good info Thanks!

@@jimsjeeps9782 Thanks for the great video! 🍻

It really does make a difference. Let us know how it went!

Agree. It's only the manual HVAC controls. Automatic climate control is different.

24 ft lbs.

Good info.

No. With a power bleeder, it was not necessary. The vacuum formed by pulling the fluid through will also pull the air out. Of course if you don't have a tool like that, a full bench bleed is a must.

Great! Glad it helped. Happy Jeeping!

I saw ur post i have 309k miles

Agree. Anything would be better. Just seems like they were late for.lunch when this was designed.

Wow...

I went on Rock Auto and got it for $13 shipping included

I believe it's 4 qts for a pan drop. There is much more in torque converter. Put in a little over 3qts and check level (vehicle running, in neutral, emergency brake set). Add until just below full on dipstick. Trans fluid will expand slightly at temperature, so try to take that into account.

I bumped the key and released it too quick. At this point, I believe the starter is still ok. But hey, maybe next video! Thanks for watching!

@@jimsjeeps9782 yeah I was actually referring to the long crank time the second try. Mine kept taking longer and longer to turn over until one day it didn't. Just something to keep an eye on. Cheers

Good advice. I did have a green o-ring become dislodged.