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Yes you could, you'd also have to plug the inlets on the throttle bodies as well as reroute the overflow line coming from the gas tank.

Thanks for the info and thanks for being a part of our channel.

That's fantastic!! Glad we were able to help!! Thanks for being a part of our channel!!

Very True!!

Yes!! It's still holding air as it should. Thanks for being a part of our channel.

I bought from E-bay seller royal-rider Here is a link to the current listing of the tank--www.ebay.com/itm/196565705474?_skw=mr+clean&itmmeta=01JADKVQNN1V1A0SMWNJDBF0GC&hash=item2dc43aa302:g:LHAAAOSwpVtmwE5M Thanks for being a part of our channel!!

Yes absolutely, both stands can be used, when I park I usually put the side stand down, then get off the bike with it on the side stand, then with my left hand on the handle bar and right hand on the frame close to the rear shock, step on the centre stand and with your weight on the stand and while lifting the rear frame pop the bike on the centre stand. Maybe I should make a video showing the proper technique?

Yes I'm not sure what he meant by that comment, I've looked on parts diagrams and can't see anything that looks like a locking mechanism. I've had my axle inserted from the right side this whole riding season and there's no difference. I probably did it absentmindedly when changing the rear wheel. I'm left handed so I probablt grabbed the axle with my right hand and the nut with my left. As long as it's tightened to torque it's good to go!!

Thanks for watching!! It's been almost 2 full riding seasons and both wheels are holding air better than when there was tubes in the wheels. You can do it just assmble all the parts and take your time, slow and steady!! Good Luck!!

No problem 👍Glad you enjoyed it, thanks for being part of our channel!!

You're welcome!! Thanks for being a part of our channel!

Honestly I haven't looked back at all, the 16 tooth works great for me, most of my riding is 80-100 kph secondary roads the 16 tooth drops the revs just enough that the engine purrs along nicely. If most of my riding was in the city with lower speeds I think the 15 tooth would be better. Thanks for being a part of our channel!

@@losttogether4ever I ordered the 16 last week, and before I fitted it, wanted to make sure it was working out for you. Thx for the reply! I have two nieces in Vernon, and my brother will be moving to Salmon Arm next summer - I believe you said you’re said you’re from there in one of your videos. I really enjoy your content! - Don / San Diego, Ca

Thanks Don! Yes we're in Vernon it's a great place for riding, beautiful summers!! Pretty tough to beat Southern California in the middle of winter though!

Thanks for being a part of our channel!! I think you're the first person from Geneva! Ride Safe.

I'm happy to report that yes they are still leak free, they dropped 5lbs over last winter probably due to the temperature fluctuations in my garage from -15C to +15C. But other than that they've held up very well.

Glad it was helpful!

Good for you!! I wish the parts were as cheap here!! Thanks for watching

That's good information, did you replace the solenoid with a resister? I think if you don't you will get a check engine light. Thanks for contributing to our channel!!

@@losttogether4ever Yes plugged in new resister where purge valve removed and cable tied below air filter

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Ha Ha, Yes if only I had an Ohlins budget !! Thanks for watching and commenting!

I'd love to see someone have their bike totally wrapped!! I'm sure one of those wrap places would love to try and Wrap a Enfield 650!!

Totally agree the Staintune have a nice low rumble.

The Lone Star State!! Welcome aboard!!

I guess you could but the caps make it look tidier, thanks for watching!!

That's too bad, if you were closer to me I'd do it for you, once you've done it once it's easy peasy !!

@@losttogether4ever Thanks 🙏 I put my frustrations aside took my son to help on the right side and we made it! Job completed 👍

Awesome, glad we could help you out. Thanks for being a part of our channel!

Excellent, you are very welcome. Keep the rubber side down!!

That will work too!! Thanks for being a part of our channel, and thanks for the kind comments!

Yes I would do a review of them if they reached out to me and offered a set of bags for review.

As I understand it you should, some will say you must use a tubeless compatible tire, tubeless tires have a lip by the bead that seals to the rim. Without this seal your tire may not seal proprerly if you are using a "normal" Tube type tire. That being said the vast majority of modern tires made are Tubeless compatible. The stock tyres on our Enfields are Tubeless type Tyres.

You can always use a tubeless tire on a tubed rim but NOT THE OPPOSITE. You should never use a tubed (not tubeless) tire on a tubeless rim.

G'day to you! It's great to see some Ausies watching our channel!!

I think it makes the fine adjustments a bit easier but it's mainly the looks, you still have to rely on the stamped markings on the swing arm.

Everyone is entitled to their opinion, I removed my evap system last year, my canister was soaked with fuel, yes I probably overfilled the tank hoping to squeeze as much distance between fill ups as possible. I also experienced intermittent rough running which I think was as a result of raw fuel being routed into the intake by the evap control solenoid. I ride all season and even when the temperatures hit 40C I don't get any fuel out of my tank as long as it isn't parked totally full. I don't think you really understand how the system works. If as you say the evap system has nothing to do with reducing greenhouse gasses what do you think it is there for?

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No remapping needed, the air injection system is a passive system and injects air post combustion, the solenoid will continue to function as if it was purging only there is no air or vapors to be injected. I'm not sure if you have emissions inspection in Spain, if you do, this mod may affect your emissions. Thanks for being a part of our channel!!

@@losttogether4ever Hi, thanks for your reply. In Spain there is an inspection. But if it is not necessary to map, in principle there should not be any problems, I would check it with a diagnostic machine. When I cancel it and do the test I will let you know. For now I am going to replace the exhaust elbows to cancel the catalytic converter on the elbows. Thanks Regards

I wondered that as well, I was told that Jainism is a decendant of Hinduism. But I really haven't studied it that well.

I both agree and disagree with you, the snokel size and direction is designed to allow the specific volume of air to flow into the engine coupled with the size of throtttle bodies, combustion chambers and exhaust all being stock and restrictive in order to make a set amount of power and keep emissions withing the design parameters. When you change the exhaust to free flowing the only way to achieve a benefit is to open up the intake to allow more air in. The stock snorkel is a choke point. The side covers provide an amount of protection from splashes or large droplets of water from entering in to engine. My dealership advised me that replacing the snorkel cover would not void the warranty, most dealerships will gladly sell you the DNA filter and an exhaust system with no impact on your warranty.

@@losttogether4ever I don't care if people agree, it's their engine to reck, free country. As engineer however, I can tell that the snorkel design is not to restrict air (aprox. 40L per second can go quite easy thought that hole), but to suck the air from back/down direction e.g. the direction from where the water drops won't be able to enter as they need to turn 180 to enter the snorkel.

I have a foam wheel to buff it with my drill and I use Autosol or Mothers Mag wheel metal polish. Thanks for watching!

@@losttogether4ever will it shiny forever or how long it will last for the heat engine to turn back to the original state.

It's usually good for a couple of weeks before it starts to get a bit dull then I do it again.

The first thing I would do is put some fresh gas in it, is it possible that your gas may be contaminated, if that isn't the issue I'd then check all your electrical connections as well as your fuel line connectors, mine once ran intermittently bad and I traced the issue to a fuel line connector that wasn't totally seated, once I pressed it together I heard a click. The loose connector was allowing air to enter the fuel system causing some mis-firing once it was warm. Reading that you have had a new fuel pump makes me think this could be your issue. Let us know how you make out, thanks for being a part of our channel.

@@losttogether4ever hi. Problem solved.one of my Spark plug adaptor was leaking current from ignition coil. Changed the adaptor problem solved🍻

Excellent glad you solved the problem and shared your experience here to help others!! Thanks

Thanks for watching and being a part of our channel!

I haven't had any faults with my ECU, as long as everything is capped off properly and the tank vent is open to the atmosphere there should not be any pressure building up. The valve will continue to open and close normally it just won't route any fumes anywhere.

Thanks!! I think you'll love the Stinger, it really is the best bang for the buck when it comes to the Enfield 650's

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for being a part of our channel Steve!

Thanks for watching!

Thanks for the tip!! You can do the Tubeless conversion just take your time!!

I would check for a vacuum leak, or an exhaust leak. You may have accidentally swapped a tank vent for an evap line or like me I had one header pipe not sealed against the head causing me grief for a few months as I changed out sensors to try and track down my issue. The idle should be smooth if everything is tightly sealed. Let us know how it goes!

I totally agree with you, Thanks for the comment.

No, I didn't feel any difference at all.