Love the videos my man! Being in Canada and owning a Continental GT as well, it’s great to see what others are doing and where they get their parts from. However…..please……for the love of god……get a stool or something to sit on while you work! My knees hurt watching you. 😅
Ha Ha!! I know, it's an old habit!! I've got a stool kicking around the shop somewhere, I'll try and remember to use it! Thanks for watching and being a part of our channel!!
Hi, I'm new to maintenance and I wanted to ask: You used 10W 410ml of oil, but the service manual recommends 2W 430ml, was there a reasoning behind that?
Hello, Welcome to our channel and thanks for subscribing!! Yes I used approximately 410ml of oil in each leg but the real measurement was the 140mm of distance from the top of the fork tubes to the level of oil. The 430ml of oil that the manual recommends is if your forks are completely empty of fluid. Measuring from the top of the tubes to the oil level is a more accurate measure as there may be a small amount of residual oil in the fork legs and damper rods. As far as weight of oil the factory manual seems to recommend 2W25 which I've never heard of. Most riders seem to recommend 10W as a middle of the road oil weight, you can then go thicker 12W or thinner 7.5w to fine tune your suspension. Hope this makes sense.
@@losttogether4ever Thanks for replying. I've read a few posts on various forums and the consensus has been the same: No one's ever heard of 2W25 and nearly every comment I read said they went with 10W. I found some random Indian site that had 2W, but that's it. Safe riding.
Thanks for watching, I got that measurement from the Enfield forum, it's the most consistent way to ensure the amounts are equal in each leg as there could be residual oil in the fork legs which would throw off the amount if you were to add a specific amount to each leg.
@losttogether4ever thanks for the info. I've used it a few times before in other bikes with great results. I think that once I bought too heavy fork oil. ATF worked out OK. Many thanks and Merry Christmas too, from Australia.
I do understand that you are not a professional and you are working from your garage with limited conditions, but still. Have a look here: ruclips.net/video/9gYz4KmNxjU/видео.html You should have cleaned the valves after draining the oil. If you leave the grid in the valves and don't clean valves, spring, etc you might as well not replace the oil because the new oil will be immediately as dirty as the old oil was. Tip for the next time.
Thanks for the tip, I am not too worried about contaminated oil because the bike is less than 1 year old and hasn't been ridden in any type of conditions that would cause me concern.
Oh, please put some cardboard, rag or wood on the floor where you are resting all the parts you take off! I’ve seen a couple of your videos and you work off what looks like a unsealed concrete floor, not good for any parts!😢
Quick question....Im looking to change just the headlight brackets.....do you think that I can simply loosen the cap bolts and slide the forks down WITHOUT fooling with any of the brake lines/calipers???? Im hoping to just drop the forks a few inches and slip the old brackerts out. What do you think? Thanks!!!
Hmmm, I'm not sure I think you might have enough slack in your brake line to drop the whole front end, worse case you might have to unbolt the caliper and ABS sensor and let them hang. Not really a big deal FYI front caliper torque is 44nm or 44ft lbs
![Twenty One Pilots - “The Line” (from Arcane Season 2) [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/E2Rj2gQAyPA/mqdefault.jpg)
Love the videos my man! Being in Canada and owning a Continental GT as well, it’s great to see what others are doing and where they get their parts from. However…..please……for the love of god……get a stool or something to sit on while you work! My knees hurt watching you. 😅
Ha Ha!! I know, it's an old habit!! I've got a stool kicking around the shop somewhere, I'll try and remember to use it! Thanks for watching and being a part of our channel!!
Hi, I'm new to maintenance and I wanted to ask: You used 10W 410ml of oil, but the service manual recommends 2W 430ml, was there a reasoning behind that?
Hello, Welcome to our channel and thanks for subscribing!! Yes I used approximately 410ml of oil in each leg but the real measurement was the 140mm of distance from the top of the fork tubes to the level of oil. The 430ml of oil that the manual recommends is if your forks are completely empty of fluid. Measuring from the top of the tubes to the oil level is a more accurate measure as there may be a small amount of residual oil in the fork legs and damper rods. As far as weight of oil the factory manual seems to recommend 2W25 which I've never heard of. Most riders seem to recommend 10W as a middle of the road oil weight, you can then go thicker 12W or thinner 7.5w to fine tune your suspension. Hope this makes sense.
@@losttogether4ever Thanks for replying. I've read a few posts on various forums and the consensus has been the same: No one's ever heard of 2W25 and nearly every comment I read said they went with 10W. I found some random Indian site that had 2W, but that's it. Safe riding.
Yes it is no. 10 hydrolic with a.dye
Interesting.
Thanks
So did you mark the straw when the old oil was in? Not sure how you worked out the measure on the straw?
Thanks for watching, I got that measurement from the Enfield forum, it's the most consistent way to ensure the amounts are equal in each leg as there could be residual oil in the fork legs which would throw off the amount if you were to add a specific amount to each leg.
How did the ATF work out??
It worked great, the fork seems to respond well to the ATF which is equal to 10W fork oil, no regrets!
@losttogether4ever thanks for the info.
I've used it a few times before in other bikes with great results.
I think that once I bought too heavy fork oil.
ATF worked out OK.
Many thanks and Merry Christmas too, from Australia.
I do understand that you are not a professional and you are working from your garage with limited conditions, but still. Have a look here: ruclips.net/video/9gYz4KmNxjU/видео.html You should have cleaned the valves after draining the oil. If you leave the grid in the valves and don't clean valves, spring, etc you might as well not replace the oil because the new oil will be immediately as dirty as the old oil was.
Tip for the next time.
Thanks for the tip, I am not too worried about contaminated oil because the bike is less than 1 year old and hasn't been ridden in any type of conditions that would cause me concern.
Oh, please put some cardboard, rag or wood on the floor where you are resting all the parts you take off! I’ve seen a couple of your videos and you work off what looks like a unsealed concrete floor, not good for any parts!😢
Ah, better late than never, but even better use a workbench and vice with padded jaws!
Thanks for watching!!
Quick question....Im looking to change just the headlight brackets.....do you think that I can simply loosen the cap bolts and slide the forks down WITHOUT fooling with any of the brake lines/calipers???? Im hoping to just drop the forks a few inches and slip the old brackerts out. What do you think? Thanks!!!
Hmmm, I'm not sure I think you might have enough slack in your brake line to drop the whole front end, worse case you might have to unbolt the caliper and ABS sensor and let them hang. Not really a big deal FYI front caliper torque is 44nm or 44ft lbs
You da man! Thanks!!!!
You're much better off just removing the upper triple clamp to swap out your headlight brackets.