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I’ll be using OM system 150-600mm in snowy conditions and temperatures as cold as -25 Celsius at times, of course when it’s snowing, temperature is usually around -8°C, I was wondering if such devices are lens coat would prevent heat transfer from hands to lens preventing foggy, I will be marrying mitts or gloves so that should not be an issue.

I just got 150-600mm is only IPX1, when using a not such great weather, would you suggest using a water resistant lens coat, and being a habit of removing it when lens is not in use, especially if you see it in conditions, I guess one uses these type of cover. You need to make sure lens and the code properly enters out otherwise it cause bigger problems.

Mate, can you please recommend me a camera for low light video footages(only videos i don't take photos) I use it in my truck to record the road while i drive. I want smoth and good quality video. My budget is $1000

The biggest problem with this product is that I could not find it anywhere.

I’m newly returning to photography. Though I can’t afford the best, I’ve been reading reviews and drooling over cameras from Fujifilm, Sony, and Canon. I quickly realize that those were all out of reach… Indefinitely. So I started looking at other brands as a “consolation”. I recently purchased an Olympus om-10 mkii for the price of the Nikon lens I was planning to purchase (for an old D3200). One word… wow! This small camera from 2015 with a kit lens has blown me away for capability and image quality. And the for price (with lens’s) of $260. It’s a steal. I’ve truly fallen in love with the Olympus brand. Since I’m new to cameras, I was confused by the name change. Frankly Olympus is a much better brand name than “OM Systems”… however it is good to know that when I can afford a nice camera, I can hope to get this om-1 mk2.

Thank you very much for these explanations.

The AF on the Mark 2 is other-worldly. You used the Zuiko 4/3 50-200. I popped the Bigma 50-500 "for Olympus" (EVolt) onto the DMW-MA1. The Mark 2 is the first MFT I've had that will focus that lens accurately. Even C-AF+TR. It doesn't focus as quickly as MFT lenses but my other MFT cameras need to use MF correction on it.

wonderful review....this light really caught my eye on Amazon and I'm just a novice....glad I found your review! The light has magnets, but do you know if it can be attached to an iPhone with Magsafe compatibility? I imagine the magnets have to line up in the proper orientation, but does the K&F actually stick? Hoping you can test this and get back to me. I'm also looking at purchasing a magsafe-style "vlogger" light....but the K&F has so much more features and capabilities!

I've wondered whether it's better to shoot HDR bracketed sequences than auto exposure bracketed ones. It's possible to select a wider gap between exposures, and the camera defaults to maximum frame rate electronic shutter, so sequences may be completed in less time, with less movement between frames. The result is a sequence of images from which either a single RAW file can be selected or two or more can be combined in post-processing. Is there any disadvantage to HDR bracketing over AEB that I've missed?

Hello Thomas, your videos are absolutely first class. I’m not yet a OM system owner but will consider it. Your videos can also be applied to other systems.

Excellent video, as always, as an engineer and photographer I especially appreciate your work! I have just one qualm, however, with your assertion that the battery generates heat and therefore the camera benefits from moving it into the grip. I've worked with Lithium Ion batteries extensively in my professional career and don't believe this to be the case for the discharge rates found in digital cameras. Perhaps you're referring to the heat generated by the internal circuitry when the battery is being charged?

Great comprehensive, no drama objective review!! Should be the template for all lens and camera YT channels, Ted.

Thank you Thomas for the very informative video , i have the OM-1 mark 1 and for sport i use both the 40-150 2.8 pro and the 100-400 and withe the 40-150 i do use the 2x Tele converter which gives me great reach and very sharp photos . The 100-400 i use on it own and for what it is it works well .

Can you make a quick video for the geo settings?? Or where can I see that. I am a visual learner.

Very helpful. 16:57 was hoping hoping for how to pair 😊

Great video, but those sound effects are really jarring.

Hi, can you do multi delete on tg 7? Thanks.

Is there any setting to change the manual focus ring turning degree on the om1? I am using a panasonic lens and the focus throw was too long for using with a focus motor

No it’s not. The final image you look at of course has a limited DR you are able to view. But for high contrast scenes, you want to capture the dark areas and then push them in editing to make the image more pleasing. High DR sensors are very desirable to have

JÁJA❤❤❤❤❤❤

Thank you from Cameron, Sydney Australia

Servus Thomas... I just ordered this camera today. I am planning on taking it for our Europe trip next week. Thankyou for your insperational videos. And I bought your guide too. And I spent some money on your recommended accesories. LOL! We are planning on Christmas Markets and I am hoping it will do good with low light market images..

Sehr geniales Video Thomas!!! Hast du das Equipment schon lieferbereit???🤣🫣🙌😇 Hoffe ich hab mal wieder Zeit dir zu assistieren…

Good job Thomas. I think I am going to purchase this camera (Black version) for travel. I like the fact that it is small and strudy. It will allow me to store my phone safely into my backpack and conserve my phone battery. The camera is so small and thin, I will be able to carry it under my jacket or a wind breaker, with a small lanyard on my left shoulder and the camera across in front of me on the right side ready to reached

Will never sell my 300mm f4 by far best lens on the market, Razor sharp, Nail biting fast focus. Amazing macro. great with 1.4 X and even 2X, blow away with my moon picture alone. on my large TV it look like the moon want to fall out of the tv, onto my floor break like Humpty Dumpty.

Got my d2xs in 2014 £400 still have it today . For wildlife photos i use a d800 but for every thing else dslr wise i like to use my d2xs quality / build wise nothing comes close. The answer is if you like the pictures that you get from your camera then keep using it . Have also seen fantastic photos taken with a D1

Excellent to see a pro shooting in action. Highly appreciated Thomas!

Thomas, you are a lively actor in addition to a professional photographer! Okay, in naturalistic shoot I cannot realize all these tips; at least not for bird photos, but for macro I can create a little space as a room is, with some lights around the subject. So, these tips are useful also for me. Thank you. Sergio from Milano

Ad Budapest color grading? Cool photos

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Thank you for posting this excellent review. The 150 600 is the best choice obviously to magnify small and/or distant subjects. I have tried the lens myself for 3 weeks but could not find sufficient reason to keep it. I find it balances poorly on the small Om1m2, even with the grip. It is too obviously a FF design. OM did their best to adapt it but, I feel in the end, it is too limited by its origin and m43 sensor limitations. F8 on this lens for best optical performance restricts its use severely. The 150 600 should be mentioned is clearly and visibly better than the 100 400, however at overlapping focal lengths massively behind the 40-150+1,4TC. The latter shows what is possible on m43 for a zoom. For some reason that beats me you have to shell out 7k for the big white lens to have a really top range zoom on m43. In my opinion, there is a gaping quality gap in OMs zoom line this side of the 150-400 f4.5 that the reviewed lens does not address.

Thank you, very well explained. I have just bought my very first high resolution camera so am learning.

Is there an hdmi monitor that does not change the format and crop of the preview? At the moment I use my phone via and hdmi converter as an external monitor on my lumix GX85. But I have the problem that it changes the life view from 4:3 to 16:9 and also crops in a little. (just as if my camera switches to video mode.) Is there a monitor that does not do this?

I still have olympus omd 5 mk 2 and its ok

O.K., fair compair. The Nikkor currently costs 250 - 350 EUR (Germany/Ebay), Voigtlaender 500 - 650. This would be my crucial decision argument. But my Nikkor portfolio is posed in another way: 17-24-35-55-85-105 and then only zooms until 300.

To be quite frank this video left me a bit confused, Thomas. At first I learnt that dynamic range is a bit like image resolution: As long as you've got enough for what you want to do everything is ok. And that dynamic range above 8 EVs isn't relevant and even a bit less isn't a problem all by itself. That sounds a lot like "the max 9.7 EVs of the sensor in my E-M1X is more than enough" just like "the 20 MP of the sensor of my E-M1X is more than enough for taking the kind of pictures I'm taking, with very humble cropping and not deliberately higher than ISO 6400 sensitivity setting" (which in a nutshell really is my point of view). And it also fits my experience for rating picture quality on my E-M1X on different ISO settings: 200/excellent/9.7EVs 1600/very good/6.9EVs 3200/good/6.1 6400/still-satisfying/5.2EVs >6400/try-to-avoid-if-possible/<4.9EVs And ok, FF sensors (formerly known as KB 😏) give you around 2 EVs more dynamic range than MFT sensors. But now my confusion starts: Why even think about more than 8 EVs? And if dynamic range of more than 8 EVs doesn't matter anyway, why even think about using HDR? Maybe I just got you wrong in the first part of your video and you meant it doesn't matter anyway ON PRINTS? So it will give sense to have more dynamic range for making use of it in postprocessing only? For me this would come down a lot on whether to use out-of-camera JPGs (what I admittedly like a lot) or RAW (what I just use in case I change my mind and correct a mistake or try another color profile in postprocessing), right? And for that doing HDR bracketing would also give sense if shooting with a MFT camera and needing a dynamic range of 4-6 EVs more dynamic range in post processing. Did you mean that? Here's some additional insight I got from studying the PDR data: A few cameras have also been metered using the electronic instead of mechanical shutter. I don't know if this can be generalized from the model to the brand but while Canon cameras seem to lose a bit of their dynamic range when used with electronic shutter, Sony cameras' dynamic ranges seem to be rather invariant of shutter type. The only OM camera tested with both shutter modes (EM-1 M2) even gains a bit (=+0.7 EVs at ISO >200) of additional dynamic range when used with with electronic shutter. And Nikon? Sorry, no model metered with electronic shutter.

Hi Thomas, thanks for the detailed comparison. But when it comes to DOF I still remain confused. In Streetfotografie I use some focusing and therefore need to calculate my DOF all the time. On mft I find myself always shooting to stops lower than on (nowadays called) FF. I don't know about the "typical" look of either format, but my results do look so similar that I can not tell the format they are shot on🤔

Enjoyed your insight into how much the OM1 can do, will give it a go,looking forward to more video's on the same. Thanks. Barrie.

Thomas your videos really do make the usual tests by You Tubers look very basic. Such effort and detail and all in a second language. Well done

Thomas hallo, hab Video von Peter Forsgard gesehen, wo du über Photographie erzählst. Die Fotos von Street sind wunderschön, die du gemacht hast. Soll es Geheimnis sein, ich akzeptiere es, aber trotzdem frage ich, welche Settings du benutzt hast. Ich möchte auch solche Farben mit meinen Fotos haben. Ok, schönen Tag noch. Grüsse Peter M. Slowakei.