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What about the Nikon D700..??

Great review! I wanted a Canon G7X but they are not available. I found your review and this camera is almost as good at a third of the price. I’ve got mine ordered. Looking forward to getting it soon.

Dear Thomas! I am a sincere admirer of your performances. You are one of the few lecturers who back up your statements with professional arguments in a way that remains comprehensible. What I appreciate is that your subjectivity is not apparent in any of your presentations, so that the presentation can remain objective. Thank you!

I have the TG-6. Can you recommend a gimbal for it so that I can use it as an action camera? Is it possible to control the zoom with a gimbal?

Interesting subject! Where can I read more about this. Is there a book or two? Or is it to hard to understand to dive deaper in...

Is FF f8 at night really bad? I want to get Nikon Zf with 28-400mm f4-8 and people really pull off of that aperture, if people able to have crop sensor, why cant accept that at full frame since f4 land on snallee sensor of MFT hence the light capture capabilities isn't the same as f4 at full frame, I don't know the math but maybe it going to be time two too like the depth of field conversation, if so hence it's still going to be F8 at night, smaller too for some slower than f4 lens, can you share some of your knowlesges about this to me?

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Excellent video. Super Useful information. Thanks! Had to laugh at "High Volume Approach". I'm used to this technique being called "Spray and pray".😉 Listen to any videos interviewing Georgina Steytler (my favourite bird photographer) to see what I mean.

Again - just found your channel when I recently acquired an OM-1 body. To do this I had to do what for you must be unthinkable. I swapped my entire D700 bag and four lenses. I loved my Nikon system to bits but because the camera bag was so heavy I hardly ever used it. I got into micro 4/3 right at the start, when I was given the original Panasonic G1 starter kit when it came out in Japan for Christmas in 2008. I still have the G1 body because the JDM version only has Japanese menus, making it pretty much unsellable outside Japan. I’ve only had the OM-1 for a few weeks now, but I am so impressed with its performance and ability to deliver clean low noise photos in poor light conditions. And there is no other system that allows me to carry a complete camera bag on my motorcycle. It’s pretty unbelievable what that camera can do in such a small light package!

Thank you for sharing.

This principles helped me to take sharp pictures. Thank you. Some old lenses can loose focus during camera mirror movement so you need to hold focusing ring tight enough

Thanks Thomas! I just acquired an om-1 after many years with a full frame Nikon and micro 4/3 Panasonics. A lot of horse trading later I am now down to just the one light portable camera bag based around the om-1. It’s a steep learning curve coming from bodies that were 10+ years old. I’m just starting out with your om system videos, but already I’ve learned so much more than I expected. Your methodical approach and clear succinct explanations are superb! So I just wanted to say I can’t thank you enough. Please keep ‘em coming!

Hello there, (from Maine, USA) I had the OM-1 system (previous OMD-mk2) I ended up trading it all in for the Nikon z6iii and now, I find that all of my images look exactly the same. Sharp and crisp. (I have a hefty 180-600 z, 24-70 f4, and the 105 macro) So I am in the works to trading my Nikon system back in for the OM-2 I have these lenses that I’m hoping to get in the trade as well: 12-40pro 300 mm 40-150 pro 17 1.2 What are your thoughts? I do landscape, wildlife, and some macro/astro, a little of street and people. Any recommendations on what you’d choose for a lens line up?

I wonder why you chose the 12-45 f4 over the 12-40 f2.8? Is it only the (relatively small) weight difference? Or as well the filter size equivalence between the 12-45 and 20mm? For indoor shots and the rainy weather or in the evening, should the f2.8 not be better then?

Adapters are fun. But not for pro work. You want good AF. All the exif. Lens profile etc.

AND...It looks like you actually reply to most if not all comments! "Sinä teit fantastista työtä."

You are easily the best presenter of difficult info on RUclips! Most talk WAY to fast or skip over very much needed information to complete the picture. I just bought a very inexpensive 400mm mirror lens with a Minolta MD to MFT adapter for well under $100 just to play with and see what this MFT adapter party is all about. Thanks again!

Danke Herr Eisl für Ihre differenzierten, sachlichen und fachlich hochkompetenten Analysen zu Olympus / OM-Produkten! Hab erst vor Weihnachten sehr günstig eine OM-1 I gekauft und mich inzwischen vom "ersten Komplexitäts-Schock" erholt (zuvor EOS 650D), nachdem ich eine Reihe brauchbarer online-Videos entdeckt habe, die das rund 400-seitige, "sterile" OM1-Benutzerhandbuch erst Verstehen helfen (das "Begreifen" wird dann schon noch mit der Praxis kommen 🙂). Nun bin ich kürzlich auf Ihren Kanal gestoßen und bin happy (s. 1. Satz)! Darf ich kurz Folgendes fragen: Hauptmotive für meinen Wechsel zu OM / MFT waren a) künftig "weniger Gewicht" bei der Wildtierfotografie (v.a. Vögel) und b) endlich mal eine leistbare Festbrennweite "kaufen können". Ihr Beitrag hat mich in meiner Entscheidung bestärkt - das 300mm / 4.0 Pro wird in den kommenden Tagen angeschafft. Aufgrund günstiger Angebote habe ich gleich beide MC´s gekauft, frag mich aber erst jetzt, ob das sinnvoll war - haben Sie einen Tipp, eine Meinung dazu, ob es Sinn macht, beide einzusetzen? Da beide (MC14 und MC20) noch unbenutzt sind und auch das Widerrufsrecht noch besteht, könnte ich meine "Euphorie" noch um einen MC "korrigieren" 🙂 Beste Grüße!

You confirmed me to invest to the TG-7, even while I own the Olympus OM-5 and the 30 mm macro. Both have their uses, but the TG-7 is just so freaking easy to get superb results, when you spot something. And for casual shots the TG-7 sits in my pocket all the time - set to the "Instant film" ART filter. Wauuu. Thx for your superb content.

Nice review! Would my legacy lenses Olympus 12-60 2.8 and Sigma 150 2.8 (that I use occasionally) focus faster on the PDAF-enabled OM-5?

Excellent and thorough review, so helpful! I do have a question for you though regarding if you WERE to use the lens on a tripod or monopod - I get that the handhold-ability of this lens is amazing, especially when paired with the om1 Mark 1 or II. But in your opinion would you get even sharper images with the use of either a monopod or a tripod? And if so, which combination of lens and/or body IS would you suggest? Thanks.

Thanks a ton. I'm a long time street photographer but very new to this camera. I needed something for snow and rain shooting. These tips are great. Hope you do more.

Fabulous in-depth comparison! Most thourough and without all the baloney. Just what i needed, thank you 🎉

Fantastic video! I just bought this camera and can't wait to use it for some upcoming trips. I did have one question from your video: What is the cable protector mounted to the camera at 52.26? I have never seen one of these and would love to get one.

very nice option, but im my opinion only if you cannot use a PC because i think to be able to edit about 100 pics on PC in the same time of 10 pic on Camera :)

339 / 5.000 I recently came across this video and found it very helpful, thank you. I like to shoot in black and white and have my EVF set to monochrome but as soon as I activate HDR the camera's EVF is set to color. Maybe I'm missing some background photography knowledge but is there a (technical) reason for this?

Good day, Thomas. It's a good video with good information. I do have one quibble with you on the number of stops per image needed for creating an HDR image. You state at the 12-minute mark the need to take images at one-stop increments to make an HDR image with the older cameras. This is not true. Even with the older cameras, only three images (-2, 0, +2) were sufficient (not five). And this was if you were shooting JPG or raw. As you know, an 8-bit image, such as a JPG, has about 7-8 stops (depending on the signal-to-noise ratio, but that's getting away from the point). Around 2012, I was getting annoyed with folks showing their ghastly, over-saturated HDR images and bragging about how they shot every third stop or half stop. So, I did an experiment. I set up my camera on a tripod, and I shot from -2 - +2 at every half-stop. This gave me nine images that I saved as JPG images. I then processed them in Photomatix (the best HDR Tone-Mapping software at the time) and processed them all with no adjustments. I did -2, -1.5, -1, .-5, 0, .5, 1, 1.5, 2. Then I did -2, -1, 0, 1, 2. Finally, I processed -2, 0, 2. The result was that there was absolutely no difference between any of the resultant photos. But, as you stated, the newer cameras do have more dynamic range, and because of that (and Chan from Adobe (their raw image master)) states that all you really need is the -2 and +2 shots, as that provides more than enough overlap. I have confirmed this, but I still mostly take all three shots because I usually hand-hold my camera. If the +2 shot is blurry due to camera movement, I can always fall back on the 0 shot. Nonetheless, I am always glad for things to be tested before being convinced of something, and I thank you for your observations.

Thomas, Ive watched this several times, but oohhh....that breakfast. Nice!!

I have moved from the EM1 iii to the OM1 ii. On the EM, I moved my focus point using up/down/left/right on the wheel. On the OM, it seems I can’t use the wheel until I first use the joystick, which I don’t like. How can I move this function to the wheel only? Thank you in advance.

Coming from the software dev industry, I don’t understand why camera companies don’t turn their business model to paid upgrades. Some do, with additional video features like ARRI or ProRes support for Lumix cameras, but upgrades, if any, are mostly for free. In the software industry, paid upgrades are quite common and accepted. Or, they implement subscription models. The result of free upgrades is that on the longer run, companies tend to only fix apparent bugs (updates) and not add features (upgrades). Even the former ‘King of Kaizen’, Fujifilm is downscaling upgrades. Their CEO actually acknowleged that it’s not profitable to run this model on the longer term.