📋 Get the HDR Quick Reference: www.thomaseisl.photography/shop/p/om-system-om-1-reference-sheet 📛 Become a channel member: ruclips.net/user/thomaseislphotographyjoin ☕ Donate a coffee to support this channel: ko-fi.com/thomaseislphotography ❓📩 Direct support: thomaseisl.photography/shop/p/support-ticket
Bought the PDF guide sheet and am also very happy to donate to show my appreciation for your work and study of this camera platform, to help us all get the best out of it, Thomas. To help us conquer high dynamic ranges, especially with the professional method using Affinity Photo (which I also use and recommend) is brilliant and very helpful. I consider what you are providing to be very worthwhile and valuable, particularly seeing how well Affinity Photo does the HDR tone-mapping, as you demonstrated. Although post-processing is to be avoided...I think artistically it can be justified when the software is doing just a 'mechanical' process ( not offering chances to intervene or adjust ) and, thus, we can preserve the purity of the concept of getting it 'right in camera' ; just using HDR and Tone Mapping to overcome a technical limitation of the hardware but still putting the onus on the photographer to get the images, in all other aspects 'correct' when the shutter button is pressed. The reference tables of dynamic range expansion mapped to HDR bracketing settings is , as you can expect , very useful because it gives a framework within which the guessing is much reduced and the science can be used instead. Please keep up this very useful research and explanation of this platform...it will benefit hundreds and possibly thousands of photographers. Thank you again, Thomas.... David from Glasgow
David, I'm very thankful for your generous support and your kind words. That is truly quite something and I can't state enough how much this means to me. I agree - HDR done right preserves the purity of the craft - and when getting it right in the field, there is no need to distort an image in post production. Which is tedious and can result in unrealistic images. Also, good to hear that you are also using Affinity Photo, it really is a very capable piece of software - and so fast. Love it!
this was by far the best and most succinct discussion on how to maximize performance of the mirrorless cameras we love. And the reference sheet you designed is brilliant. My own methods arrived through the past couple of decades and earlier in film work when I frequently came up against scenes like sunsets over beaches. With the modern cameras I use the highlights and shadows indicators, setting the range in camera to 5 for shadows and 250 for highlights. Then I just adjust exposure until it looks like I'm about in the middle between the highs and lows, and test how many stops by dialing the EVF compensation two, three, or five stops each way to see what will compensate to cover the range properly and that's how I know what to set the HDR mode to cover that number of stops. Thanks for clarifying how to make the EVF/LCD display a better idea of the dynamic range. I'd never thought of that. I've made custom monochrome settings to get black and white the way I like and to see in the view finder what I want to happen. It just never occurred to me to expand the dynamic range of the view finder for handling high dynamic range scenes. You're really helping the community and some of these tips would apply to other mirrorless cameras I'd expect.
Thank you very much for the kind comment and for sharing your HDR method! It is very much like the one I present here - maybe because we both have a strong background in film photography, we came up with a similar approach. Great to have you on the channel, many thanks for the comment, I very much appreciate it!
Oh and yes, the method definitely works with other digital cameras as well - you just have to figure out the "core dynamic range" - usually four stops, but for some cameras less.
Thank you Thomas. This requires study, practice and then mulling over how I want to incorporate these options into my life. Then I can try to master a part of what you have explained so well. The challenge -apart from personal effort- is to find the need for HDR frequently enough to get in a lot of practice. I’ll just have to get outside at noon. :-)
I can promise one thing: If you stick to these steps you will get an excellent result with the first try. There is no more trial and error involved - I'm looking forward hearing how it worked out for you, Roderick. Many thanks for the comment!
I don't like HDR in general. I deeply appreciated Thomas' lessons about ND and High Resolution as the best way to NOT use HDR. And I obtained interesting results. But in some cases, multiple shots are required. Ad ex.: shots inside a room with windows
Agreed - sometimes it is just unavoidable. But with the tips from this video, you will get perfectly natural results - promised. No one will even notice that it was an HDR image, only the trained eye.
Typically I will listen to you, follow along and try stuff with you talking, camera in hand...NOT so much in this video! I took notes like I was back in school!! Great work, great points, great topic. I picked up a new strategy today for HDR capture. Thank you!
Thank you very much. I’ll see what I can do with my OM D1 iii. This camera had a short life, because of the sale to OM Systems, which got the real improvements. The limited dynamic range bothers me a lot in my style of photography, so your help is very welcome.
Today is my second viewing of this video. After the first viewing I tried in-camera HDR with my OM-1 and it opened up a whole new world for me. I want to become very proficient with using the in-camera HDR1 and HDR2 settings for travel photography, but I also want to learn to do the manual tone mapping as you demonstrate here. Your videos have done, and are doing, more for my photography than any other source on the Internet. Thank you so much, Thomas.
Thomas - again, great work. You express yourself exceedingly well. Your tutorials are informative and thorough. Thanks for sharing your expertise with everyone!
Great work Thomas, excellent tutorial! Especially for my landscape photography with the OM-1, - which became my new and only system two months ago (!), - it is crucial to exploit the full dynamic range of the camera - if necessary with the aid of HDR. Your lecture is a great help to achieve the best possible results in every situation. Well done, chapeau!
Thank you very much Markus - as you've said, HDR is really the key to excellent results in many landscape photography scenarios. It sounds like you are happy with the switch so far?
@@ThomasEisl.Photography Ich bin wie du begeistert von diesem Funktionalitäts- und Kreativitätsmonster OM-1. Und zu meiner freudigen Überraschung sehe ich auch in der Bildqualität keinen praxisrelevanten Unterschied zum Vollformat (obwohl labortechnisch vorhanden) - vorausgesetzt man macht alles richtig, also man hört auf den OM-1- Univ.-Prof. Thomas 🤩 Deine Tutorials gaben mir ja überhaupt den Anstoss und Mut zum wechseln, und ich habe es noch keine Minute bereut - im Gegenteil. Denn ich sagte mir: Wenn ein auch in allen technischen Belangen so kompetenter Berufsfotograf sich ausgiebig mit dieser Kamera beschäftigt muss diese auf jeden Fall auch für mich gut genug sein.
Da werde ich jetzt mehr als rot - danke! Abgesehen vom tollen Feedback: Es freut mich wirklich dass ein erfahrener Fotograf wie du zu den selben Schlüssen kommt wie ich: Kein praxisrelevanter Unterschied und dafür viele neue Möglichkeiten mit einem Werkzeug, dass man einfach immer ohne Probleme dabei haben kann. Ich bin tendenziell eher zurückhaltend mit klaren Empfehlungen, da jeder individuelle Bedürfnisse hat - daher freut es mich wirklich, wenn ich dich nicht auf einen für dich "falschen Weg" gebracht habe, sondern du meine Begeisterung teilst!
@@ThomasEisl.Photography Ja die OM-1 hat mich vom Vollformatdünkel kuriert, sozusagen. Und mir gezeigt dass die Sensorgrösse und die Zahl der Fotodioden darauf nicht alles ist. Ein gut bedienbare, funktionelles, relativ leichtes Gehäuse. Allwettertauglichkeit. Stabilisierung. Kompaktheit. Qualität der Objektive. usw. Das alles ist wohl wichtiger. Und am Allerwichtigsten natürlich immer der Mensch hinter der Kamera 😅
Thank you Thomas. I was not satisfied with my HDR results. I have purchased your excellent chart and will use your recommendations to improve my HDR photography.
Great to hear - with these methods, you should definitely get satisfying results. Many thanks for your support & purchasing the HDR reference sheet! Best wishes and happy "HDR".
Wow! Amazing video as usual! Thank you so much! I've used hdr1 quite a bit, especially in previous olympus camera models... I don't use it as much with the om1 because the hand held hi-res already increases the dynamic range of the photos, and delivers one raw high resolution image... I have to compare exposure braketing with the hi-res in high contrasting scenes to see if the gains are significant in realistic terms. Again thank you so much for these wonderful videos.
Compelling video as usual. I kept thinking of Adams's Zone System as I watched: establish the darkest and lightest values in the image, use a spot meter to establish an exposure setting, then adjust your development time to fit your negative density range to the range of the scene. The difference here is that bracketed exposures take the place of adjusting your development time.
Many thanks for the feedback - Ansel Adams's literature was actually inspiring this method, as I was really unsatisfied with the regular "just bracket a few stops and hope for the best" method.
Many thanks for another enlightening (ahem!) clip, Thomas. While I have already spent a little time on the HDR settings in my camera, the detail you gave me was quite new very valuable, as was the walk-through on using and setting HDR. Given that I tend to do more landscape photography than any other, this will serve me well, given that landscapes often have a wide dynamic range. Musing about the OM-1 and its feature set, I can't help but think that OMS/Olympus have applied a great deal of thought to make the camera as versatile and capable as possible. I wonder if other manufacturers have applied such a depth of thought to their products? I'm not sure if you're planning a look at the "digital teleconverter" setting, but I was astonished when I tried it - I was expecting to get a simple reduced-pixel-count image, but it produced a full 20MP image that seemed quite _sharp._
Many thanks for the feedback! I completely agree, a lot of thought and effort went into the OM-1, it is so capable, I'm hyped every time I pick it up. Regarding the teleconverter, I will indeed do a video on that, but I have to set up my test lab first so I can provide MTF data for best objectivity. Many thanks again!
What a great contribution and how well explained.👏👏👏 A detail that surprised me in the OM5 (I don't know if it is the same in the OM1) is that when shooting in HDR mode and there is a moving subject, it will appear frozen in the final photo (both in the HDR JPG and in the file RAW, although they do not match).🤔
Thank you! Yes, all Olympus/OM cameras use the same HDR algorithm at the moment - with the results you just observed. If the subject moves a lot, the blur will be more significant in the composite.
Great to hear, that is an excellent decision. The OM-1 transformed my work, it is such an outstanding tool. I hope you'll like it as much as I do. Best, Thomas 📸
Let me add my thanks for this. I have been shooting Olympus for years, although hardly any HDR, but this was the first time I have heard of that HDR Quick Ref guide, let alone hearing an explanation of how to use it. Makes me wonder what else I've missed.
Thanks for the positive feedback! Well, the HDR Quick Reference guide is my "invention", so you are practically one of the first to learn about its existence. In future videos, I will cover many other niche, yet powerful, features of OM System / Olympus cameras, looking forward to your feedback on those as well! Best wishes, Thomas
Very very interesting argument: it's what I would read about. Some months ago, during an Olympus meeting organized by "Micro 4/3 Italia" the speaker magnified Photomatix software to manage HDR pictures, even with subject in motion. I wait for Thomas' lesson with enthusiasm. Sergio from Milano
I look forward to this. I have HDR settings set up for C4, but I have not used them yet. I am confident that your presentation will help me get it right the first time. Well, perhaps almost right after a bit of practice!
Thx for the detailed analysis and explanations. I would have loved to see real world photos in the examples and the concluding remarks.. When should one not use / use HDR in real world. Theory is good, actual field examples are better... thx, stavros
Thanks for the comment Stavros! The photographs in the video are all real world examples shot with the OM-1 and its various HDR modes. Best wishes, Thomas
You have the om-1, I have one, you have affinity photo, I have one 😄 I have used HDR1 or HDR2 in vacation, a bit of curve to correct HDR2 and the photo is perfect ! (using it from e-m5 II) thank you
Haha, it really is interesting how workflows and equipment match! Thanks for sharing that, HDR1/2 have a bad reputation, although they are very capable.
You're definitely smart, and you know the OM1 inside and out. Ill need ro sit down and watch these tutorials while holding my camera probably... a good 5x before i "kinda" understand. I normally listen to your videos as I drive at work so you can imagine im listening like "wtf is he saying!?". I mean my style of photography is RAW/Manual and sometimes I can pretend im the ultimate badass using the focus stacking option. I guess thats why I was drawn to the Em5-1 and look at Leica or Ricoh with more passion. I just want to aim the camera and take a photo. I have never used video either in the 4 olympus and OM1 cameras ive owned. Wish I could forfeit the video for more image stats lol
Thanks! Yes, you should definitely keep the cam next to you. Also, don't forget that you can set the OM-1 to Ricoh GR mode as well - you just don't utilize its full potential then, but it is great fun. Best, Thomas
@ThomasEisl.Photography thanks Thomas. I have been learning a lot from your videos and others. I do apologize about the other conversation we had on your recent video. There is so much to an OM1 I didn't know I must have came off as an asshole. Can't talk shit about something if you don't even fully know how to use it lol.
Really good advice and insteresting details on the built-in HDR modes and tone mapping capabilities integrated into the OM-!. For me all this informati,n will trigger off a much more thorough investigation of my own Sony camera.
Great video like usual! Would you recommend leaving those custom picture settings on all the time even outside shooting hdr? And do you feel there are any downsides to this? Thanks
Many thanks! If you leave them on, the resulting images can look a bit flat if the dynamic range of the scene is only a couple of stops. I prefer setting up the Picture Mode in a way that the result is almost finished in camera, as OM Workspace reads the embedded settings (although they can be changed). To get to the point: If you shoot RAW and want to preview the dynamic range, you can leave them on, especially if you do not edit in OM Workspace but non-OEM software. Hope this helps!
I’ve been having fun trying out HDR 1 and 2, and all of the other computational modes. Figuring out when to use each of them and just experimenting. That also made me go back to JPG after trying out raw. I felt like raw was a bit overkill for me.
You clearly enjoy the OM-1 - and I am considering it - Can you please tell me how the camera performs for noise levels when using high ISO whilst having to crop as we often have to do for wildlife? Thanks
To be honest, I would not worry about nosie at all, even when you have to crop. The new imaging pipeline and the processing is excellent, I shot low light fashion shows (sometimes ISO 12.800) for international clients with it and no one ever complained, quite the contrary, they continue booking me. I'm really all praise for this camera, because in my experience, it is just so capable. Consider watching this: ruclips.net/video/jJQgJMCQJc8/видео.htmlsi=E2ZHII1IQp5Ri954 and this one: ruclips.net/video/SXm3peOg5rc/видео.htmlsi=R2gzFgUkpdFCzMPB Hope this helps
I always wait for his new video, now a reference point for someone like me who has this fantastic camera for just over 2 weeks, I tried this function quickly and I noticed that it is very performing. Unfortunately I have to report 3 events of complete locking of the camera, when I bought it I did update but I had these problems, any suggestions? Thank you very much.
That is very strange - a few things which might be the cause: a defective lens, dirty contacts between lens and camera or faulty SD cards. Could you elaborate a bit on when the issue occured? Also, try updating the firmware of both the lens and camera 📸
Thomas, thank you for the great explanation about HDR with Olympus, this was great, I use Olympus OMD EM1 MKIII, is the HDR Bracketing - Overview Table applies also to my camera? Thanks
I've wondered whether it's better to shoot HDR bracketed sequences than auto exposure bracketed ones. It's possible to select a wider gap between exposures, and the camera defaults to maximum frame rate electronic shutter, so sequences may be completed in less time, with less movement between frames. The result is a sequence of images from which either a single RAW file can be selected or two or more can be combined in post-processing. Is there any disadvantage to HDR bracketing over AEB that I've missed?
Excellent video! But I'm wondering about the basis of your calculation of the dynamic range of the scene. 10-4 means 6 stops of expansion. Ok, but why 4? I'm not sure where that value came from.
That is not very easy to answer. First, I looked at the high fidelity dynamic range of the OM files. Then, after controlled tests I came to the conclusion that it is best to add a bit of wiggle room on top of that for best results in the final composite. You might be able to get away with 5 to 6 stops as well, but with four, best results are guaranteed under all circumstances.
Ok just theoretically: A camera with a DR of 10+ e.g. 12 would have been able to capture the complete dynamoc range in a single shog? You seem to be really fit in Affinity Photo , could you maybe do a tutorial in the future? Also: very informative and good video
If the scene exhibits 11 stops, then you need a camera with 11 or more stops, 12->12, and so on. Will put the Affinity tutorials on my list. Best, Thomas 📸
I focus on the most important part of the image - just like I would when capturing the scene without HDR. The focus should not change from frame to frame (OM-1 automatically locks AF in HDR)
Danke für das sehr interessante Video und die Erklärungen. Gleich mal ausprobiert und es funktioniert. Ändert sich bei der Fotografie in der Nacht dabei etwas? Oder ermittelt man die HDR Einstellung genau so? Gruß aus dem hohen Norden von Jens
Hallo Jens, vielen Dank! Tatsächlich ändert sich nichts, diese Methoden funktionieren unabhängig von der Lichtsituation. Achtung, viele Nacht-Szenen haben relativ begrenzten Dynamikumfang und sehen dann mit HDR etwas seltsam aus. Einfach probieren bzw. messen ist meine Empfehlung. LG Thomas
If I want my model to be clear, with perfect sunset background. Should I then spot meter on her with s-af and then move the camera while holding shutter till I shoot? I like to keep the model and sun in each side of the frame.
Well, there are many skills to master to get such a shot. But in principle, spot metering the face and applying exp. comp. depending on skin color is always a good starting point.
Still waiting for the one-stop combination of HighRes Shoot + Bracketing to get 80 MP with full dynamic range. Doing it manually is possible but error prone and slow. Obvious, the functionallity is there (also in the EM1 Series) but these parts of the software are not connected yet. Still hoping on a firmware update to deliver this functionallity.
I agree that this would be nice, but: You would need at least 7 times the memory to perform bracketing and high res shot at the same time. I doubt that the current models have the hardware capable of doing that. That is quite something and most certainly beyond a firmware update.
The jpg is the hdr photo on om system right? On Panasonic g9 mark 1 you can choose color profile and sharpening etc for in~camera hdr. Sadly this option is not available on g9 mark 2.
On the OM system camera in hdr1 and hdr2 mode it takes 4 exposures and blends into one jpg that is the hdr photo. And raw photo that goes with it is the 0 EV exposure.
What happen if the value of DR Scene in lower of 4 so the subtraction 0f 4 give as negative result?Also if the DR Expansion is odd number ,lets say and when we divide 5/2 the result is 2.5 which shutter speed we select?
Q1: you can capture that in one shot. There is no need for HDR in this case. Q2: Rounding is recommended in such cases. Note that I've included a safety margin to cover these scenarios. To be on the safe side, always choose the faster S.S. to not clip channels.
Hallo, auch wenn mich das Thema weniger interessiert (fotografiere in erster Linie Wildlife), fand ich das Video doch äußerst lehrreich. Es ist immer wieder bemerkenswert was mit dieser Kamera möglich ist. Dass das Video sehr gut gemacht war, muss ich wohl nicht mehr erwähnen (hab`s doch gemacht🤣).
Vielen Dank Richard - das freut mich wirklich sehr zu lesen! Vielleicht kommt zu deinen Wildlife-Aufnahmen ja demnächst ein "Landscape-Establishing Shot" dazu mit HDR. Viele Grüße!
@@ThomasEisl.Photography gratuitous rudeness is the scourge of RUclips. So sorry you have to see comments like that, Thomas. Totally unnecessary tone, even if you HAD been using an earlier OM-D.
📋 Get the HDR Quick Reference:
www.thomaseisl.photography/shop/p/om-system-om-1-reference-sheet
📛 Become a channel member:
ruclips.net/user/thomaseislphotographyjoin
☕ Donate a coffee to support this channel:
ko-fi.com/thomaseislphotography
❓📩 Direct support:
thomaseisl.photography/shop/p/support-ticket
Thanks Thomas. Great video. I will be trying the ideas out this afternoon. Just purchased the Quick Reference to help an old brain 🙂.
And again I say: never had a great tutorials like yours full of tips to a better photography
Thank you very much - your positive feedback means a lot to me, really!
Bought the PDF guide sheet and am also very happy to donate to show my appreciation for your work and study of this camera platform, to help us all get the best out of it, Thomas. To help us conquer high dynamic ranges, especially with the professional method using Affinity Photo (which I also use and recommend) is brilliant and very helpful. I consider what you are providing to be very worthwhile and valuable, particularly seeing how well Affinity Photo does the HDR tone-mapping, as you demonstrated. Although post-processing is to be avoided...I think artistically it can be justified when the software is doing just a 'mechanical' process ( not offering chances to intervene or adjust ) and, thus, we can preserve the purity of the concept of getting it 'right in camera' ; just using HDR and Tone Mapping to overcome a technical limitation of the hardware but still putting the onus on the photographer to get the images, in all other aspects 'correct' when the shutter button is pressed. The reference tables of dynamic range expansion mapped to HDR bracketing settings is , as you can expect , very useful because it gives a framework within which the guessing is much reduced and the science can be used instead. Please keep up this very useful research and explanation of this platform...it will benefit hundreds and possibly thousands of photographers. Thank you again, Thomas.... David from Glasgow
David, I'm very thankful for your generous support and your kind words. That is truly quite something and I can't state enough how much this means to me.
I agree - HDR done right preserves the purity of the craft - and when getting it right in the field, there is no need to distort an image in post production. Which is tedious and can result in unrealistic images. Also, good to hear that you are also using Affinity Photo, it really is a very capable piece of software - and so fast. Love it!
Arguably, the best insights into HDR ever, many thanks...
Thank you very much!
this was by far the best and most succinct discussion on how to maximize performance of the mirrorless cameras we love. And the reference sheet you designed is brilliant. My own methods arrived through the past couple of decades and earlier in film work when I frequently came up against scenes like sunsets over beaches. With the modern cameras I use the highlights and shadows indicators, setting the range in camera to 5 for shadows and 250 for highlights. Then I just adjust exposure until it looks like I'm about in the middle between the highs and lows, and test how many stops by dialing the EVF compensation two, three, or five stops each way to see what will compensate to cover the range properly and that's how I know what to set the HDR mode to cover that number of stops. Thanks for clarifying how to make the EVF/LCD display a better idea of the dynamic range. I'd never thought of that. I've made custom monochrome settings to get black and white the way I like and to see in the view finder what I want to happen. It just never occurred to me to expand the dynamic range of the view finder for handling high dynamic range scenes. You're really helping the community and some of these tips would apply to other mirrorless cameras I'd expect.
Thank you very much for the kind comment and for sharing your HDR method! It is very much like the one I present here - maybe because we both have a strong background in film photography, we came up with a similar approach. Great to have you on the channel, many thanks for the comment, I very much appreciate it!
Oh and yes, the method definitely works with other digital cameras as well - you just have to figure out the "core dynamic range" - usually four stops, but for some cameras less.
Thank you Thomas. You gave a perfect explanation as how to use HDR to extent the available dynamic range of the camera.
Many thanks for the positive feedback! I greatly appreciate that!
Thank you Thomas. This requires study, practice and then mulling over how I want to incorporate these options into my life. Then I can try to master a part of what you have explained so well. The challenge -apart from personal effort- is to find the need for HDR frequently enough to get in a lot of practice. I’ll just have to get outside at noon. :-)
I can promise one thing: If you stick to these steps you will get an excellent result with the first try. There is no more trial and error involved - I'm looking forward hearing how it worked out for you, Roderick. Many thanks for the comment!
I don't like HDR in general. I deeply appreciated Thomas' lessons about ND and High Resolution as the best way to NOT use HDR. And I obtained interesting results.
But in some cases, multiple shots are required. Ad ex.: shots inside a room with windows
Agreed - sometimes it is just unavoidable. But with the tips from this video, you will get perfectly natural results - promised. No one will even notice that it was an HDR image, only the trained eye.
Typically I will listen to you, follow along and try stuff with you talking, camera in hand...NOT so much in this video! I took notes like I was back in school!! Great work, great points, great topic. I picked up a new strategy today for HDR capture. Thank you!
Many thanks - now that is great feedback!
Thank you very much. I’ll see what I can do with my OM D1 iii. This camera had a short life, because of the sale to OM Systems, which got the real improvements. The limited dynamic range bothers me a lot in my style of photography, so your help is very welcome.
Good news: These techniques work also with the OM-D M1III!
Thanks for the comment!
Today is my second viewing of this video. After the first viewing I tried in-camera HDR with my OM-1 and it opened up a whole new world for me. I want to become very proficient with using the in-camera HDR1 and HDR2 settings for travel photography, but I also want to learn to do the manual tone mapping as you demonstrate here. Your videos have done, and are doing, more for my photography than any other source on the Internet. Thank you so much, Thomas.
Thanks Greg!
@@ThomasEisl.Photography You are more than welcome. You have certainly earned my thanks, and the thanks of many.
Thomas - again, great work. You express yourself exceedingly well. Your tutorials are informative and thorough. Thanks for sharing your expertise with everyone!
Many thanks! That is great feedback, I appreciate it!
Great work Thomas, excellent tutorial! Especially for my landscape photography with the OM-1, - which became my new and only system two months ago (!), - it is crucial to exploit the full dynamic range of the camera - if necessary with the aid of HDR. Your lecture is a great help to achieve the best possible results in every situation. Well done, chapeau!
Thank you very much Markus - as you've said, HDR is really the key to excellent results in many landscape photography scenarios.
It sounds like you are happy with the switch so far?
@@ThomasEisl.Photography Ich bin wie du begeistert von diesem Funktionalitäts- und Kreativitätsmonster OM-1. Und zu meiner freudigen Überraschung sehe ich auch in der Bildqualität keinen praxisrelevanten Unterschied zum Vollformat (obwohl labortechnisch vorhanden) - vorausgesetzt man macht alles richtig, also man hört auf den OM-1- Univ.-Prof. Thomas 🤩 Deine Tutorials gaben mir ja überhaupt den Anstoss und Mut zum wechseln, und ich habe es noch keine Minute bereut - im Gegenteil. Denn ich sagte mir: Wenn ein auch in allen technischen Belangen so kompetenter Berufsfotograf sich ausgiebig mit dieser Kamera beschäftigt muss diese auf jeden Fall auch für mich gut genug sein.
Da werde ich jetzt mehr als rot - danke!
Abgesehen vom tollen Feedback: Es freut mich wirklich dass ein erfahrener Fotograf wie du zu den selben Schlüssen kommt wie ich: Kein praxisrelevanter Unterschied und dafür viele neue Möglichkeiten mit einem Werkzeug, dass man einfach immer ohne Probleme dabei haben kann.
Ich bin tendenziell eher zurückhaltend mit klaren Empfehlungen, da jeder individuelle Bedürfnisse hat - daher freut es mich wirklich, wenn ich dich nicht auf einen für dich "falschen Weg" gebracht habe, sondern du meine Begeisterung teilst!
@@ThomasEisl.Photography Ja die OM-1 hat mich vom Vollformatdünkel kuriert, sozusagen. Und mir gezeigt dass die Sensorgrösse und die Zahl der Fotodioden darauf nicht alles ist. Ein gut bedienbare, funktionelles, relativ leichtes Gehäuse. Allwettertauglichkeit. Stabilisierung. Kompaktheit. Qualität der Objektive. usw. Das alles ist wohl wichtiger. Und am Allerwichtigsten natürlich immer der Mensch hinter der Kamera 😅
Thank you Thomas. I was not satisfied with my HDR results. I have purchased your excellent chart and will use your recommendations to improve my HDR photography.
Great to hear - with these methods, you should definitely get satisfying results.
Many thanks for your support & purchasing the HDR reference sheet! Best wishes and happy "HDR".
Wow! Amazing video as usual! Thank you so much!
I've used hdr1 quite a bit, especially in previous olympus camera models... I don't use it as much with the om1 because the hand held hi-res already increases the dynamic range of the photos, and delivers one raw high resolution image... I have to compare exposure braketing with the hi-res in high contrasting scenes to see if the gains are significant in realistic terms.
Again thank you so much for these wonderful videos.
Thank you very much for sharing that and the kind feedback!
Compelling video as usual. I kept thinking of Adams's Zone System as I watched: establish the darkest and lightest values in the image, use a spot meter to establish an exposure setting, then adjust your development time to fit your negative density range to the range of the scene. The difference here is that bracketed exposures take the place of adjusting your development time.
Many thanks for the feedback - Ansel Adams's literature was actually inspiring this method, as I was really unsatisfied with the regular "just bracket a few stops and hope for the best" method.
Very interested in this topic. I'll try to make this session live! Live chat can be really engaging and fun. Looking forward to it.
Yes, I hope to see you there! Would be amazing - and thanks very much for the kind words!
Thank you Thomas. Very well explained. You've really helped me understand my OM1.
Great to hear!
Wieder einmal eine hervorragende Arbeit 👍🏻
Vielen Dank!
HDR Quick Ref table: good job Thomas!
Many thanks for the purchase, I hope it will be of great use!
Many thanks for another enlightening (ahem!) clip, Thomas. While I have already spent a little time on the HDR settings in my camera, the detail you gave me was quite new very valuable, as was the walk-through on using and setting HDR. Given that I tend to do more landscape photography than any other, this will serve me well, given that landscapes often have a wide dynamic range. Musing about the OM-1 and its feature set, I can't help but think that OMS/Olympus have applied a great deal of thought to make the camera as versatile and capable as possible. I wonder if other manufacturers have applied such a depth of thought to their products? I'm not sure if you're planning a look at the "digital teleconverter" setting, but I was astonished when I tried it - I was expecting to get a simple reduced-pixel-count image, but it produced a full 20MP image that seemed quite _sharp._
Many thanks for the feedback! I completely agree, a lot of thought and effort went into the OM-1, it is so capable, I'm hyped every time I pick it up.
Regarding the teleconverter, I will indeed do a video on that, but I have to set up my test lab first so I can provide MTF data for best objectivity.
Many thanks again!
What a great contribution and how well explained.👏👏👏
A detail that surprised me in the OM5 (I don't know if it is the same in the OM1) is that when shooting in HDR mode and there is a moving subject, it will appear frozen in the final photo (both in the HDR JPG and in the file RAW, although they do not match).🤔
Thank you!
Yes, all Olympus/OM cameras use the same HDR algorithm at the moment - with the results you just observed. If the subject moves a lot, the blur will be more significant in the composite.
Great detail! I've used HDR1 on the EM1 Mark ii and will explore it further on my new OM1.
Fantastic!
thanks thomas from holland,very helpful,buying om1 tomorrow
Great to hear, that is an excellent decision. The OM-1 transformed my work, it is such an outstanding tool. I hope you'll like it as much as I do. Best, Thomas 📸
Let me add my thanks for this. I have been shooting Olympus for years, although hardly any HDR, but this was the first time I have heard of that HDR Quick Ref guide, let alone hearing an explanation of how to use it. Makes me wonder what else I've missed.
Thanks for the positive feedback!
Well, the HDR Quick Reference guide is my "invention", so you are practically one of the first to learn about its existence.
In future videos, I will cover many other niche, yet powerful, features of OM System / Olympus cameras, looking forward to your feedback on those as well! Best wishes, Thomas
Большое спасибо вам за этот урок. Очень полезная информация👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thank you very much!
Very very interesting argument: it's what I would read about. Some months ago, during an Olympus meeting organized by "Micro 4/3 Italia" the speaker magnified Photomatix software to manage HDR pictures, even with subject in motion. I wait for Thomas' lesson with enthusiasm. Sergio from Milano
Awesome, I will cover mostly the camera side of things - will you join tonight?
I look forward to this. I have HDR settings set up for C4, but I have not used them yet. I am confident that your presentation will help me get it right the first time. Well, perhaps almost right after a bit of practice!
Great to read!
If you've got specific question, you can ask them during the live chat on Friday!
@@ThomasEisl.Photography I will have to watch the recording because of my current time zone. :-(
Ah alright!
@@ThomasEisl.PhotographyI moved to Asia 5 years ago. :-)
Ah, alright! Well, I will schedule the next live event at a different time so you can join!
Excellent guide.
Glad you think so!
Thx for the detailed analysis and explanations. I would have loved to see real world photos in the examples and the concluding remarks.. When should one not use / use HDR in real world. Theory is good, actual field examples are better... thx,
stavros
Thanks for the comment Stavros!
The photographs in the video are all real world examples shot with the OM-1 and its various HDR modes.
Best wishes, Thomas
You have the om-1, I have one, you have affinity photo, I have one 😄
I have used HDR1 or HDR2 in vacation, a bit of curve to correct HDR2 and the photo is perfect ! (using it from e-m5 II)
thank you
Haha, it really is interesting how workflows and equipment match!
Thanks for sharing that, HDR1/2 have a bad reputation, although they are very capable.
thank you for another excellent video ... great work
My pleasure! Thanks!
You're definitely smart, and you know the OM1 inside and out. Ill need ro sit down and watch these tutorials while holding my camera probably... a good 5x before i "kinda" understand. I normally listen to your videos as I drive at work so you can imagine im listening like "wtf is he saying!?". I mean my style of photography is RAW/Manual and sometimes I can pretend im the ultimate badass using the focus stacking option. I guess thats why I was drawn to the Em5-1 and look at Leica or Ricoh with more passion. I just want to aim the camera and take a photo. I have never used video either in the 4 olympus and OM1 cameras ive owned. Wish I could forfeit the video for more image stats lol
Thanks! Yes, you should definitely keep the cam next to you. Also, don't forget that you can set the OM-1 to Ricoh GR mode as well - you just don't utilize its full potential then, but it is great fun.
Best, Thomas
@ThomasEisl.Photography thanks Thomas. I have been learning a lot from your videos and others. I do apologize about the other conversation we had on your recent video. There is so much to an OM1 I didn't know I must have came off as an asshole. Can't talk shit about something if you don't even fully know how to use it lol.
Thanks for the tutorial
I want to know that if I shoot 7 photos with 2 EV showing 12+ dynamic range and took only required files during editing??
That can work, depending on how you merge the files.
Really good advice and insteresting details on the built-in HDR modes and tone mapping capabilities integrated into the OM-!. For me all this informati,n will trigger off a much more thorough investigation of my own Sony camera.
Many thanks - great to hear!
Great video like usual! Would you recommend leaving those custom picture settings on all the time even outside shooting hdr? And do you feel there are any downsides to this? Thanks
Many thanks!
If you leave them on, the resulting images can look a bit flat if the dynamic range of the scene is only a couple of stops.
I prefer setting up the Picture Mode in a way that the result is almost finished in camera, as OM Workspace reads the embedded settings (although they can be changed).
To get to the point: If you shoot RAW and want to preview the dynamic range, you can leave them on, especially if you do not edit in OM Workspace but non-OEM software. Hope this helps!
Well done Thomas, this is the most detailed HDR commentary I have seen
Many thanks!
I’ve been having fun trying out HDR 1 and 2, and all of the other computational modes. Figuring out when to use each of them and just experimenting. That also made me go back to JPG after trying out raw. I felt like raw was a bit overkill for me.
Thanks for sharing!
Great video once again!
Thank you so much!
Thank You very much that was very helpful. I learnt a lot.
Glad to hear that!
Thank you for your job!Really really helpful!👍🏻😃
Nice!
excellent explanation. Thanks
Glad you liked it, thanks for the feedback!
You clearly enjoy the OM-1 - and I am considering it - Can you please tell me how the camera performs for noise levels when using high ISO whilst having to crop as we often have to do for wildlife? Thanks
To be honest, I would not worry about nosie at all, even when you have to crop. The new imaging pipeline and the processing is excellent, I shot low light fashion shows (sometimes ISO 12.800) for international clients with it and no one ever complained, quite the contrary, they continue booking me.
I'm really all praise for this camera, because in my experience, it is just so capable.
Consider watching this:
ruclips.net/video/jJQgJMCQJc8/видео.htmlsi=E2ZHII1IQp5Ri954
and this one:
ruclips.net/video/SXm3peOg5rc/видео.htmlsi=R2gzFgUkpdFCzMPB
Hope this helps
I like your tie. Very good videos, by the way.
Many thanks!
You’re a master class
Many thanks!
I always wait for his new video, now a reference point for someone like me who has this fantastic camera for just over 2 weeks, I tried this function quickly and I noticed that it is very performing. Unfortunately I have to report 3 events of complete locking of the camera, when I bought it I did update but I had these problems, any suggestions? Thank you very much.
That is very strange - a few things which might be the cause: a defective lens, dirty contacts between lens and camera or faulty SD cards. Could you elaborate a bit on when the issue occured?
Also, try updating the firmware of both the lens and camera 📸
Thomas, thank you for the great explanation about HDR with Olympus, this was great, I use Olympus OMD EM1 MKIII, is the HDR Bracketing - Overview Table applies also to my camera? Thanks
Yes!
I've wondered whether it's better to shoot HDR bracketed sequences than auto exposure bracketed ones. It's possible to select a wider gap between exposures, and the camera defaults to maximum frame rate electronic shutter, so sequences may be completed in less time, with less movement between frames. The result is a sequence of images from which either a single RAW file can be selected or two or more can be combined in post-processing. Is there any disadvantage to HDR bracketing over AEB that I've missed?
Excellent video! But I'm wondering about the basis of your calculation of the dynamic range of the scene. 10-4 means 6 stops of expansion. Ok, but why 4? I'm not sure where that value came from.
That is not very easy to answer.
First, I looked at the high fidelity dynamic range of the OM files. Then, after controlled tests I came to the conclusion that it is best to add a bit of wiggle room on top of that for best results in the final composite.
You might be able to get away with 5 to 6 stops as well, but with four, best results are guaranteed under all circumstances.
Ok just theoretically: A camera with a DR of 10+ e.g. 12 would have been able to capture the complete dynamoc range in a single shog?
You seem to be really fit in Affinity Photo , could you maybe do a tutorial in the future?
Also: very informative and good video
If the scene exhibits 11 stops, then you need a camera with 11 or more stops, 12->12, and so on.
Will put the Affinity tutorials on my list.
Best, Thomas 📸
Great!
Hello Thomas , one question, in what place do you put focus point for base exposure?
I focus on the most important part of the image - just like I would when capturing the scene without HDR. The focus should not change from frame to frame (OM-1 automatically locks AF in HDR)
Thanks Thomas, HDR in OM Workspace is posible?
Most welcome!
Yes, you can find it under "Tools" "Composite" "Lighten Composite". Then use either Lighten 1 or Lighten 2.
Thanks!
Many thanks for your support!
¡Gracias!
Many thanks for your support!
Danke für das sehr interessante Video und die Erklärungen. Gleich mal ausprobiert und es funktioniert. Ändert sich bei der Fotografie in der Nacht dabei etwas? Oder ermittelt man die HDR Einstellung genau so? Gruß aus dem hohen Norden von Jens
Hallo Jens, vielen Dank!
Tatsächlich ändert sich nichts, diese Methoden funktionieren unabhängig von der Lichtsituation.
Achtung, viele Nacht-Szenen haben relativ begrenzten Dynamikumfang und sehen dann mit HDR etwas seltsam aus. Einfach probieren bzw. messen ist meine Empfehlung. LG Thomas
@@ThomasEisl.Photography Danke, werde es testen
If I want my model to be clear, with perfect sunset background. Should I then spot meter on her with s-af and then move the camera while holding shutter till I shoot? I like to keep the model and sun in each side of the frame.
Well, there are many skills to master to get such a shot. But in principle, spot metering the face and applying exp. comp. depending on skin color is always a good starting point.
Still waiting for the one-stop combination of HighRes Shoot + Bracketing to get 80 MP with full dynamic range. Doing it manually is possible but error prone and slow. Obvious, the functionallity is there (also in the EM1 Series) but these parts of the software are not connected yet. Still hoping on a firmware update to deliver this functionallity.
I agree that this would be nice, but: You would need at least 7 times the memory to perform bracketing and high res shot at the same time. I doubt that the current models have the hardware capable of doing that. That is quite something and most certainly beyond a firmware update.
Thanks for this video! Why don't you have the Telegram?
Most welcome! You can get in touch via Instagram - have to limit the number of social channels, can't maintain them all.
Just bought the pdf guide sheet.
Thank you very much - I hope you'll find it useful!
Excellence
Many thanks!
The jpg is the hdr photo on om system right? On Panasonic g9 mark 1 you can choose color profile and sharpening etc for in~camera hdr. Sadly this option is not available on g9 mark 2.
Which one do you mean exactly?
On the OM system camera in hdr1 and hdr2 mode it takes 4 exposures and blends into one jpg that is the hdr photo. And raw photo that goes with it is the 0 EV exposure.
So yes, as Jos said, the jpeg is an in-camera HDR merge, which I color graded
What happen if the value of DR Scene in lower of 4 so the subtraction 0f 4 give as negative result?Also if the DR Expansion is odd number ,lets say and when we divide 5/2 the result is 2.5 which shutter speed we select?
Q1: you can capture that in one shot. There is no need for HDR in this case.
Q2: Rounding is recommended in such cases. Note that I've included a safety margin to cover these scenarios. To be on the safe side, always choose the faster S.S. to not clip channels.
Hallo, auch wenn mich das Thema weniger interessiert (fotografiere in erster Linie Wildlife), fand ich das Video doch äußerst lehrreich. Es ist immer wieder bemerkenswert was mit dieser Kamera möglich ist. Dass das Video sehr gut gemacht war, muss ich wohl nicht mehr erwähnen (hab`s doch gemacht🤣).
Vielen Dank Richard - das freut mich wirklich sehr zu lesen!
Vielleicht kommt zu deinen Wildlife-Aufnahmen ja demnächst ein "Landscape-Establishing Shot" dazu mit HDR.
Viele Grüße!
Did you even look at the left side of the camera? Why waste time on one more button? 🤔
I assume you do not have an OM-1 - there is no HDR button on the camera, only on the older models.
@@ThomasEisl.Photography gratuitous rudeness is the scourge of RUclips. So sorry you have to see comments like that, Thomas. Totally unnecessary tone, even if you HAD been using an earlier OM-D.
Thanks! Maybe someone just had a bad day
Thanks!
Many thanks for your support!