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Either way will work. Make sure the shop you take it to has an oil injector.

I'm glad you got it figured out.

Ya definitely looks better with the smaller hole. That's how I would do it if I was not going to do wiring on my own vehicle. This was a customers vehicle, and I was not sure if they were going to get wiring eventually.

I just finished my install. Turned out great. I cut the wiring harness tab off. You could just have the plug tied off at the back of the receiver hitch if need be. Is there anything else that would be recommended for a ‘21 RAV4 Prime with regards to any electronic settings or general adjustments due to the heavier piece so far in the back of the vehicle?

@k9midas1 I'm glad it turned out. There are no adjustments needed for the added weight of the receiver.

@@shoptimewithdrew One last thing…. I ended up making the width about 95-100mm, and the height 35mm higher than than template had it at. Also, aren’t there different bumper covers for the Prime vs others. Mine has a plastic insert in the middle of the bumper about 4 1/2’ wide. After cutting it out per the template (without the cut away for the plug attachment piece) it was too low. If I can figure out how to attach a photo, I will so that others can benefit from my work.

@k9midas1 There are two styles. Some are two tones. And others are only one color. It would be cool if you could add photos in the comments.

I'm not sure what the part number for the o-ring is.

No, I just removed it to add a hitch.

You can turn the crank by hand. If the rod is bent enough, then yes, it will stop the crank from turning.

@@shoptimewithdrew .... It was a woman's service adviser and she thought I was trying to start the engine instead of inspect the pistons... I called another dealer and they said yeah you can rotate the crank by hand... woamen again!!!

Nope

They do have the 2017,s red intake manifold but only in manuals.

Yes, I believe this to be true. Thanks!

Drivers' side there is a connector. Disconnect it, and the sensors will stay with the bumper.

Ya, they are not hard to work on.

Ya, just remove the timing belt and then the intake. You can leave the exhaust manifolds on just disconnect them from the down pipe.

@@shoptimewithdrew what is the difference betweeb I line mark and the T mark on the timing. I know you mentioned for timing belt change alighne cam sprockets with T and the white dot. Do Want to keep the crank and cams at T mark for timing belt even for a head gasket. The Toyota manual says to go 50 degrees and align the mark on the crank shaft with the timing pulley middle bolt. Is this referring to the white dot mark. Manual does not mention the white dot mark as you did

Go to the T mark that is after top dead center, so when you move the cams to get access to the head bolts. The valves will not hit the pistons.

​@@shoptimewithdrew So TDC is the preliminary part to set up taming right before removing the belt. So before removing the belt you go to the T mark then remove the belt and that is a safe position for the engine internals for the head gasket aswell? is that what you mean.

@mikemike4737 Yes, you can do the timing belt at either set of marks. The T mark will prevent harm to the internals. So I always set it to the T mark, like in the video, whether I'm just doing a timing belt job or doing headgaskets. I never use the other marks.

Ya, what was wrong with a bolt.

Most likely water pump.

Yes.

@@shoptimewithdrew one more, how many gal of coolant would I need? 06 v8 4runner

I would get 2 gallons.

Thank you. I'm glad the video was helpful.

You are correct. The manual says to install it in the 6 position. This is the only vehicle I have seen that, so I installed it at the 12 position still. I have heard that either way will not cause an issue.

@@shoptimewithdrew thank you I will be trying that 12 position

If you are just going for mostly looks. I would use this kit. If you intend to do some moderate offroading, I would go with a shock/spring style lift.

@@shoptimewithdrew what about the Trd skid plate? Will that work with this kit??

You will have to leave the diff drop out for the TRD plate to fit good.

@@shoptimewithdrew thanks. will that have any negative effect by not dropping the diff??

I have yet to see an issue with leaving the drop out.

I'm glad you got it figured out.

I would probably pull the cap and see if there is a desiccant bag in there. You probably have to install it. The cap that is on there now was just for assembly and testing. The desiccant pulls moisture out of the system as soon as the wrap is opened. The bag will start pulling moisture out of the air. I think aftermarket companies don't install them because they don't know how long the part may sit on the shelf. Hope this info helps.

@@shoptimewithdrew ok. It was supposed to be a genuine Toyota part from a Toyota dealer but I could be wrong. Thanks 👍🏼

I’m about to do this job myself hit a piece of gravel on way home ac.gone

@@nathanmoore7100 same here man. Rock hit it and put pin holes in it and no more ac. I’m a DIY mechanic and was able to get it done with buying all the tools still almost half of what the dealer quoted.

Thank you! I'm glad you found the video informative.

If you are having trouble, you can break the bolt free and then turn it to top dead center. Then the crank won't move when you break the bolt free the second time.

I'm not sure of a kit with a 1in spacer for the rear.

Thanks for the response. I know they're out there. I've seen them on other kits. I know Subaru has mild leveling kits. But I already did the front spacer so it's not a radical difference. It is pretty level. I just think that if I ever loaded up I might have a little tail drag. But I'm probably just going to wait until the new Bilstein terra sport shocks and struts come out for this model year. Thank you

Yes

Yes

@@shoptimewithdrew can you share links for the replacement timing chain kit and tools ?

I think it is the same setup. Just looked it up it is the same process.

Set all the marks to the same spot as in the video, then install the belt. Hopefully, you did not bend any valves.

@@shoptimewithdrewthanks for response !

I feel like I’m missing something, how come in some videos people use the strait line and others use the “T”?

One is top dead center, and one is past top dead center. You want to put the crank at the dot past the zero mark and then rotate the cams to the T marks. This way, the pistons are slightly down.

You can use either set of marks.

You could buy a Chevy that has the hidden hitch cover, but then it would be in the shop all the time for problems. I would rather own a Toyota and have to trim a little plastic that you will never see.

@@shoptimewithdrew It's not about what to buy; I just can't understand why not to put it into design? It obviously has mounting holes for bolts, but still, you need to modify and make some ugly cutouts.

Should still wine. Do you have an aftermarket intake installed?

We would not fix it with jb at the dealer, but it is your car. You can definitely try it. It could work.

I think I’ll try since there’s nothing to lose. Thanks again ‼️

@@n.michaelh4726did JB weld work?

You need a headgasket

The foot opener will be obsolete. You will just throw the sensor out.

Tow package installed at factory or the port.

Around 150k miles and the price at a dealer would be around $2,500, which could be lower or higher depending on the area.

@@shoptimewithdrew Thanks. Is there a way to test the condition of the head gasket to check before it blows? Can the shop do that if I took it in and asked for that service?

There is no real way to tell if it is about to go out. It either needs it or it doesn't.