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Hey there! Appreciate your comment. Tapping the threads really made a difference and solved my issue. It's been smooth sailing for over 30,000 miles since I put the harmonic balancer back on, no problems at all.

@@TheNonnell Awesome man! I appreciate the response. I'm about to go through the same thing with a 2006 xterra. If it works it'll save me a ton of money replacing the motor

As long as you have the right size tap, material in the hole, and patience, you should be fine.

😂

I appreciate that 🙏. Despite my limited experience and occasional frustration, I gave it my all. It all worked out and the X is still running strong.

😆. I’ll admit, those Mobil 1 caps are more difficult to remove than other brands. She doesn’t use Mobil 1 anymore. 😂

@@TheNonnell 😂😂😂 that's hilarious bye-bye Mobil 1. Some of those caps almost feel like they're welded on. I haven't used Mobil 1 in years, switched to Pennzoil Platinum.

@@fernandobriseno8164 Same here. I've been using Pennzoil for several years now.

I bought mine from leatherseats.com. You can get front and rear seat covers for around $1700. Also, you could try local upholstery shops and get a quote from them. Either way, I would suggest having a professional install the seat covers.

Yeah. I use manscape trimmers. Usually, they’re designed for beards and private areas. Mine came with two guards with two sizes on each guard. That’s all I use now to cut my hair. It’s totally doable. It may take some trial and error if this is your first time doing it but with consistency you’ll perfect the look you want.

You're welcome! Glad it helped. 🙏

@@TheNonnell I noticed your PT shirt. When were you in. I was in 2000-2008

@@greggthompson7 Yeah man. Served from 1998-2024. Just retired this past May. I enjoyed my time in service tremendously. What did you do and what branch? I'm assuming Army.

@@TheNonnell Army. Satellite Communications.

@@greggthompson7 awesome bro. As I tell everyone I meet, thank you for your service. If not for willing individuals we wouldn't have a force.

Thanks. Yeah, I looked at dissent but TJM was available when I was ready to purchase. I’m looking at a dissent rear bumper now.

@@TheNonnell awesome! If you get the rear Dissent please post a similar video. I’m eventually planning to get a rear dissent also.

💯 I'll do it.

It calls for a crush washer. There are specific kinds they use. I’m not sure the material but it’s like an aluminum center with a rubber texture on both sides. I’ve used other washers before and it had a slow leak at the drain plug. When I get home I’ll look up the kind I use and let you know.

Alright. I believe I bought these off of RockAuto.com. They're relatively inexpensive and you get 25 of them in a box. They're listed as an "oil drain plug gasket", "aluminum with teflon coating". The manufacturer I bought was Dorman. Hope that helps.

I used the master key. Locked the doors manually. Unlocked them manually. Got in and started the X. I guess you could do it twice for good measure. I made sure it unlocked all the doors instead of just the driver. I hope that helps and I hope it works for you.

@@TheNonnell thank you i will try that

Rockford Fosgate R169X2. 6” x 9”

Yes. We really loved her Camry. She currently drives an 01 honda accord. Maybe one day she’ll find another Camry to buy and enjoy. 🙏

Great cars. They’ll last forever as long as they’re not run off of a mountain.

@@TheNonnell anything I should know since this is my first car

The 4 cylinders are known to burn oil. Other than that they’re very reliable.

You’re welcome! 🤝

Yeah. Working on vehicles can be very rewarding and at the same time frustrating if we don’t have all the information. It’s all good now but definitely put too much money into this repair. Thanks for the support. A few more videos coming in the next month. 🤝

It’s been a while for sure. Have a few more in the works. 👍

Thanks! We still have the GX but it’s been super reliable and we really haven’t had to do anything to it except oil changes. It has over 211k miles on the clock and running strong.

Minute mark 3:55 has a capacity sheet screen shot of what goes in each differential and transfer case. Only the transfer case takes ATF.

😆 thanks! I’m enjoying my hair for sure. I have a bit of a receding hairline, but so far the bulk has remained. I’ve shaved my head a few times in my life so if I ever get to that point I’m prepared. I have a full beard now as well. It used to be dark orange/red but now the grey has swooped it. I guess that’s life, so I just roll with the changes. Thanks for the comment!

Good question. I replaced with a new plug each time. I don’t know if it’s required but it’s an inexpensive part to throw in with the oil change.

Thank you so much! 🙏

Indeed, that method is still effective. The use of a compressor and vacuum achieves the same outcome, but instead of being expelled by the pressure of the brake pedal, the fluid is extracted. The task could have been accomplished using either method. Moreover, employing the compressor and suction technique is particularly convenient when working alone. Ultimately, it comes down to personal preference. The end results remain unchanged.

I'm so glad that was helpful! Thank you for the suggestion. I'm sure others will appreciate the advice rather than going through the trouble of visiting a local hardware store to buy those bolts.

😂 super easy. 👍

To reattach the steering column to the rack, I needed to connect them before securing the rack in its final position. Though it may require some maneuvering, it can be accomplished.

@@TheNonnell okay thanks are they normally supposed to like retract a little into itself to actually fit into it or not? obviously the problem it being too long to get onto the pinion because i have my new one installed and the two hoses are connected as well as tie rods then the last is the shaft but struggled for three hours and ended up giving up for the day. thanks for replying i know video was made awhile but ya im not sure if i should replace it if it is suppose to retract a little to actually squeeze into it and it’s just seized real bad like everything else or do i need to take it apart again and try a different approach . i have an 2007 lexus lx470 as well.

Have you already reattached the hoses to the rack? When I did mine, I didn't connect anything to the rack until after installing the steering column. I don't recall the rack retracting at all. I left it as loose as possible, fed the steering column into the rack, and then started reconnecting the hoses and securing the rack. If your rack is already fixed in place or doesn't have much movement, reconnecting the column will likely be quite difficult. I can only share my experience, as that was the first and only time I've replaced a rack and pinion.

👍 hope he’s able to recreate it for you.

Yes indeed. It’s not always clear cut, unfortunately.

That is also an excellent choice.👍

Oh boy! I'm confident I can sift through some material and piece it together. Are there particular elements you're looking at?

Thanks for the comment. My manual says, Front Diff. 1.4-1.5 qts., Rear Diff. 2.8-2.9 qts. Transfer Case was 1.5-2 qts. I believe. Hope that helps.

Thank you! 🙏 🤗

Glad it helped. I've noticed a lot of maintenance instructions on these vehicles isn't easily found on the web. Also, if someone is purchasing an LX now there is a good chance they don't have the owners manual. Thanks for the comment. I have more LX videos coming up.

Thanks! I really appreciate it. Glad I could help.

You’re referring to the sealant at the water pump? Yes, it’s been great. I check it from time to time and no issues as of now. I’ve put about 40k miles on the LX since performing the timing job.

💯. They definitely set off the truck.

@@TheNonnell I did watch the entire video and you did fold them down. I miraculously got my seats to unlatch though late last night after hours of messing with them. Thanks!

@@scottcoleman7304 🤣 I guess I did take them down. I suppose that had to happen to get access to the back shelf. My apologies. It’s been so long I forgot all about it.

🤣 yeah I do.

🤣 yeah I do.

Could be. 🤷‍♂️ I guess depends on your tires and if they’ve been rotated properly and the style of your tires. Could be a wheel bearing. My fronts changed sound when I went around curves.

The wheels have a different offset, causing them to slightly protrude. To ensure a precise fit, a hub ring is needed. Additionally, these wheels are wider than the standard ones. I love them.

@@TheNonnell do you know what the offset is on these new wheels? thanks! hope you are enjoying this nice weather here in El Cakalaky del Norte!

@@TheNonnell yeah, thinnking very hard about getting rid of my xterra for a new(ish) frontier.... love the look of the pro4x, but cant justify the price when its just the look I like, other than 4WD, dont need skid plates etc cause I all do is beach driving, so I thought maybe cheaper to just change the tires/wheels on a SV to get closer to the pro4x look, so trying to understand the nomenclature of the process...

​​⁠ 🤔 don’t quote me, but I believe they were a zero offset.

🤔 perhaps but I love it. Still running strong.

@@TheNonnell I love the look of the second gen xterra I think it’s awesome but it’s a concern buying a used one with some of these car flippers or dealerships who sell used cars and aren’t honest and the concern is the smod.

Absolutely, it's essential to review a vehicle's maintenance and repair history before buying. It's also important to be aware that the dreaded SMOD issue typically occurs between 80-100k miles, so it's wise to plan ahead for a coolant/transmission flush and radiator replacement to avoid any potential problems.

We replaced the front doors and rear deck speakers.

I would recommend putting jack stands to lift the front in order to have more clearance to drop down the front under body cladding. It makes it so much easier. The tray swings down after the bolts have been removed. Someone commented that they cut those tabs off that allow it to swing, so it would be removable. I haven’t done that, so I place jack stands now to give me more room.

They were included with the kit.

You had to get a new key? It fixed the issue?

The fix was to replace the crank / cam sensor 🤷🏿‍♀️

@@dorotheacornelius4457 🤔 interesting. Thanks! Maybe someone might have a similar issue. Appreciate you sharing.

I ordered them off of rockauto.com. They have many to choose from.

You're welcome!

That’s crazy. You said a mechanic had changed the timing chain before? Were you going back into the timing cover or were you taking the bolt out for another reason?

@@TheNonnell When we bought it off a car lot, we paid above blue book because the dealer said he had a new chain kit installed. I thought, great, I won't have to deal with that. Well, 16 months later, it started making a loud racket, not whining. The main chain guide tensioner bracket top plastic clip broke off from the top of the guide and it slid down, fully extending the tensioner into the back metal part of the guide bracket and causing the main chain to drag on the tensioner guide bracket. So, I can't blame the mechanic, it's cheap parts that broke. I'm hitting up the dealer for his paperwork on the parts since he provided the chain kit to be installed to the mechanic. There should be some type of parts warranty on that kit. Maybe I can get some of my money back but the time it takes to do this job for a broken plastic part is crazy. I want to change the water pump and gallery seals as long as I'm this far into it, so hopefully I won't have to worry about those again either.

What I'm concerned about now are my timing marks lining up. I am at TDC on #1. The crank sprocket and left, passenger side, cam sprocket lines up, but the right, drivers' side, cam sprocket seems to be pointing too far to the right. The main chain is kind of loose on the main tensioner side and the right side of the chain is very tight. I'm suspecting there's some tension built up in the right cam or something. I've read about stored tension on the cam when someone took theirs off and it spun on them. . I'll hopefully figure it out soon. It ran fine before I tore into it, so it didn't jump time or anything.

🤔 if they’re not lining up I wouldn’t be surprised if it’s not off a hair, especially if their is slack in the chain. When I did mine, my driver side cam shifted on me, but I had all my markings and was able to rotate it back into place with a wrench. So, perhaps yours might be off a little, but not enough to drastically affect your driving ability or destroy your engine. Best of luck. It sucks when you have to redo a job, especially when it’s this timing job on the Xterra. 🤞

The clunk still remains although it is less noticeable. Besides greasing my drive shaft and joints, I tightened the driveshaft bolts which had loosened. All of that helped but at almost 300k miles there is still a little clunk. I could replace bushings along the driveline, but I’m not overly concerned with it at this time.

Truth be told I don’t remember the exact size. I had bought clear tubing from the hardware store in increments of 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, and 1 in. They were relatively cheap and I could cut to length or buy pre cut lengths.

I tackled this project today and for anyone wondering, you need a tube that’s 3/8” outside diameter to run from the OEM power steering hose to a catch container. I picked up 10 feet of 3/8” OD clear tubing at Home Depot for $4.