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When you started using the table saw, my brain panicked for a second at the idea of the board kicking back and being flung straight through your sliding glass door

Like a few other commenters on this channel; I'm going to have to call BS on your intro and being an amateur!!! Seriously though, some epic designs and implementation to this kit bash! Extremely well done and gave me lots of insight/points to consider. I WILL be plagiarizing some of your work LOL. Well done mate!

Looking great!

Like the weathering process! Coming along nicely!

Very nice, took notes! I like the way you were able to kit bash the three and create that covered section.

Hi! Do you have a link to the pin vice and bits you use?

Looks good. Curved joint tip: always solder with staggered joints (especially on curves) and also solder with track 'Straight' then when laying it can curve it. Where did you get the cardboard-light/heavy art sheet to create your templates? Definitely larger than a cereal box LOL. Thanks.

Well done series, took notes. Very elegant and not 'out of the box' looking at all. Look forward to catching up on other videos you have!

Great update, you are truly bringing out a new dimension to weathering an otherwise drab, out of box Walthers kit - well done!

Great build to date! (I'm catching up after joining). Have you noticed any issues with that extra thin super glue? Any bright spots or smudging? If so, how did you resolve? Thanks.

I'm going to build a yard and have discovered Central Valley tie strips for branchlines/yards. The mainline is Atlas code 83, but the yard will be in code 70 ME rails. I don't feel confident about building my own switches, so I think I will use code 83s that I own with 83 to 70 transition pieces. I enjoyed your video. Thanks! Go Chiefs!

Beautiful job!

At a glance you need heavier servos.

Great kit bash. I've got an Atlas lumber yard to build. Cheers from eastern TN

I got a can of red oxide primer that works well for my boxcar and ore car red. It is lacquer based which really adheres to the plastic and after thinning, it flows through the airbrush nicely. I always use a sanding stick and sand off the bolsters and top of the trucks after painting so it moves freely. Cheers from eastern TN

Sheesh, ever heard of CLOSE UPS?? Need a magnifying glass to see what you're doing.

The push stick is definitely a good idea. If you see this, The New Yankee Workshop is now on RUclips. It’s still the same original episodes, but good safety techniques. He talks about shop safety first in every episode, and for good reason.

Drew, I hope all is ok, we would love to know what you have been up too. Cheers Rob

Do you think that other wood than balsa can be used for spiking ? Thanks a lot. Nice work.

When I saw the political propaganda on the table, I stopped watching.

I'm having difficulty understanding why you used L-girder construction if you're laying your tracks on styrofoam. Is there a specific reason, or is it just that you saw or read something recommending L-girder construction? If I'm not wrong, the advantage of L-girder construction lies in the way it allows for an at-will placement of joists, which in turn allow for an at-will placement of risers to support a roadbed. (The roadbed might be either cookie-cutter style or spline.) If you're not using a roadbed separate from your scenery base, then I don't see the point of the L-girders. Or am I missing something?

Sure do wish there were more videos coming. I was really in to this channel. I hope everything is ok and it's not over with.

Oh man, using pan pastels is way easier than doing all the layers of brush paint, airbrushing and washes. Like less than 25% of the time investment.

Great video...i am about to install a SoundTraxx decoder into a Bachmann 2-8-0, although it will probably be a TSU-1100 (I have 3 other steam locos with the 1100). The hardwiring might take a bit more work, but seems "cleaner" in the end. Also plan to upgrade the headlight to LED with a 1k ohm resistor. Any insight into getting access to the headlight?

Curious about your screwdriver setup. Who is the manufacturer

How did you make that homemade rail bender?

I just noticed you bought the Y turnouts instead of buikding them. Any particular reason?

Have you ever had an issue with the track not holding? Lots of folks who hand lay their own track seem to use homasote or plywood for sub roadbed, but I like your foam approach.

That wet pallet is pretty handy. Im going to have to get one.

Amateur???? Please! I’m as amateur as it comes to modeling, and I’m nowhere close to your expertise!

I just finished a scratch build of lumber drying & storage shed in HO scale. The wife even liked my results. After I watched you build a Tichy Train Group flat car I had to build one too. Mine came out great and I even painted every board on the deck a different shade of brown. Cheers from eastern TN

Looking forward to seeing how things have progressed.

Man I’m glad I watched this! I was going to build myself a double slip! But I see I need to master building turn outs first!

Why do you play background music and then try to talk over it? I just don't understand that concept. The music distracts from your narration. For HO scale corrugated metal I got a piece of plastic .040 corrugated metal and use it as a mold. Put a drop or 2 of dish detergent and add a little water (to release the surface tension). Then add a generous amount of Elmer's glue (PVA) and wait for it to dry. Then add another layer on top and wait for it to dry. Then CAREFULLY peel off the glue layer and paint it as you would any corrugated metal. For O scale corrugated metal I got me one of those toothpaste squeezers from Amazon (only $9.99) and save every beer can after I drink it, cut it up with my tin snips and run it through the toothpaste squeezer. Now I've got more O scale corrugated metal than I know what to do with. I guess from now on all my scratch built O scale buildings will have corrugated siding and corrugated roofs, LOL! Cheers from eastern TN

This will be my next build. I learned from your mistake on my flatcar build since it's exactly the same. I sure would like to know the size of drill bit for the grab irons. Cheers - eastern TN

Hey, I use the floor gloss too! Works great. I just painted my flatcar underside rail brown & was done with it. I found a paint that exactly matches your Valejo rust pigments. It's Craftsman Coffee and Milk (Espresso y latte) and looks great on wheels. Cheers from eastern TN

I always use an A-proxo knife for cutting parts off the sprue. Never use an X-acto knife because nothing is ever exact, only approximate, LOL! It looks like you're using Tamiya cement. I did not use Mr. Cement, Plastruct or any other styrene cement. I got a Precision applicator with a metal tip and it really worked well. I think I would modify that kit if I ever build it and not use the big nuts but cut off the little sides that hold the nuts and use regular tire weights I get from Harbor Freight. The brake detail on that build looks just as fiddly as it was on my flatcar build. What size bit for the grab irons? Cheers from eastern TN

After much swearing & cussing I finally finished the assembly of a Tichy Train Group flatcar. I watched another modeler build one in a video & I really liked the brake detail on the underside of the chassis (which no one will ever see). I followed the directions to a tee and wished I hadn't. In a previous step I installed the stirrups and when trying to install the extra added bronze phosphor wire grab irons I broke off every stirrup. If you ever build this kit install the stirrups as the LAST step. I did make some replacement stirrups out of some staples from a desktop stapler which were the right size. I think I spent as much time chasing small parts across the floor as I did building the model, LOL! Upon completion of the build I painted each board on the deck a different shade of brown mixing my acrylic paint in a plastic communion cup as I went along. It came out very realistic. Now on to a load for my flatcar. Cheers from eastern TN

I'm confused - why are you using both an Arduino AND a Raspberry Pi? Can't everything be run thru one or the other?

I am total newbie and have decided on this Merchant's row kit as my first attempt, I have probably watched this video and #2 at least 5 times, and each time I learned something new, thank you for making these two videos available to us novices, it's always a good idea to learn from the best.

Great video and excellent work. Where do you purchase the Vallejo paints?

What type of primer do you use?

Right in the middle of building one of these. In N scale. With just one jig. Absolute nightmare! Enjoying it though, and hopefully it will work good when it's done. You make it look really easy - I can assure everyone that it isn't! Great video as usual

Seems like we lost Drew in the way ! As I wasn't a subscriber to your channel, I simply forgot (what a shame) the name of it. Hopefully, I found you out of all these videos on model railroading. I wanted to tell you that it was a pleasure to exchange with you then and only hope you're doing fine and that you're not sick or something. I also hope that you'll be back someday and I understand that putting videos on line is never easy. It's time consuming and you never know if some stupid viewer will leave a stupid comment. Wish you well Drew. Your Kansas City Chiefs are still alive !!!

Drew, I hope this channel is not dead. I have enjoyed your videos. I hope you will post more.

How do you figure out the size of the photos of the interior spaces? I need to do this and can't wrap my brain around it, lol. 🤔

Saw your video using servos and one suggestion. I don't use servos with fixed (programmed) positions. I use pots to control the position of the servo for straight and one for divergent. You use the map command: position = analogRead (potS); position = map(position, 0, 1023, 0, 90);. also I use a small relay to control the frog. Ditch the UNO and check into the ATTINY chips. You can use the 85 chip or if more pins are needed use the 24. $1.50 each.

Good luck man. Looks good.