You've done a great job with those lumber sheds. This is what I like the most : Modifying kits. You're paying soooo much attention to details. Keep on your good work. Can't wait to see the final result.
Are you sure you’re a beginner model railroader? You appear to have amazing skills and the results are incredible. Such a pleasure to watch you work and see the results. Your videos are like a warm blanket for the soul. Keep up the great work. 😊
Good video! You want to put oil paints on cardboard before using them so the cardboard will leach some of the oil from the paint so it won't take a long time for the paint to dry.
I just finished a scratch build of lumber drying & storage shed in HO scale. The wife even liked my results. After I watched you build a Tichy Train Group flat car I had to build one too. Mine came out great and I even painted every board on the deck a different shade of brown. Cheers from eastern TN
I don't know if he's one of the "other youtubers" you mentionned in the oil wash stage of the video but I recommend watching Nightshift RUclips channel. He does armor models but he did start making vignettes and dioramas for most of his builds in the past year and his painting skill is off the chart!! His videos are really chill and usually focus on a new technique he's trying out. It's very useful regardless of the modelling or scale you work in!
Your lumber yard models look great! Drawing out the oil allows the paint to dry faster. If you leave the oil in the paint it takes a long time to dry. If you leave the oil paint on the cardboard too long the paint will get dry and hard to work with. If that's the case just add some odorless Turpenoid to make it useable again. I'm just getting started on a model railroad but I've been building military models for a few years and I use oil paints during the weathering process. Odorless Turpenoid is available at most arts and crafts stores and is compatible with oils and enamels and is much less expensive than small bottles of enamel thinner. I wonder if Pontiac (RIP) knows Dale's Pale Ale is using their Firebird logo? haha
Thanks for the info, Steve, that make a lot of sense. I've stolen a lot of techniques from armor modelers, especially @NightShiftScaleModels and @Panzermeister36. Pontiac/GM is well aware and Oskar Blues (who makes Dale's Pale Ale) got a cease and desist from them when they made that shirt, so it's kind of a rare shirt, or so I've been told.
@@WhiteRiverLine those are a couple great armor modeling channels, especially Night Shift. Haha on the shirt. I have a 74 Trans Am that has the big firebird on the hood (2nd year for the hood decal). My channel is a combination of my hobbies with armor modeling and muscle car restoration. I have some model railroad stuff but not much, I hope to add more. I look forward to your next video.
Don't worry, PMD has been gone since 1984 (just an empty brand name after), and those running GM since don't really care, probably don't even recognize what the 'Screaming Chicken' is.
@@jeffbranch8072 GM certainly isn't what it used to be. My last GM was a 2006 Pontiac GTO. Since GM killed off Oldsmobile and Pontiac I stopped buying GM.
Great job Drew. I have now completed, going back and, watching ALL of your videos to date. What impresses me is your apparent humility as a modeler. You're actually quite good. From watching you and other similar channels, I can say this; More than 80% of model building is prep and painting, followed by detailed assembly, and finally add accenting details (Barrels, pallets, shovels, figures, etc.) The time involved in building a detailed (mimic real life) model, takes years, even for a model railroad of the size you're building. I salute your tenacity. Keep up the outstanding work. Remember this; Even though you are using the Frisco Line for your prototype, THIS IS YOUR RAILROAD, always make it your railroad. Just as Steve Brown did with his at the "Its My Railroad" channel ;-)
Thanks so much, Robert. The work itself creates some humility. Even for modeler more skilled and experienced than me, there are always things to learn and improve and failures to overcome. I agree that the prep work is key and it takes some discipline and patience to not be tempted to skip it. Thanks also for your encouragement to make it MY railroad, this is the approach that keeps me going.
Hi Drew, your lumber yard is coming out great. I have never heard about letting oil paint sit out for awhile and the reason for it seems worth trying. Your choices of Vallejo colors was great and I'm wondering if you picked up some of their sets of colors or bought separately. If a set which one(s)? Thanks
Very nice. I will be interested to see how you add the second story and keep the model from twisting apart. Were you planning on adding something like foamboard (the thin Elmer's foam core board, roughly 1/4 inch thick) under the entire complex so it can be moved as a unit and I just missed that part? I'm asking because I've got a large industry I'm planning for multiple car spots - using most of the walls from 2 Walthers' Red Wing Milling to create a roughly 3 foot long background building about 2 to 4 inches deep - and having the thing flex apart as I go to install it is a real concern for me. I'm going to test to see if one or maybe two thicknesses of the foamboard underneath will provide enough strength for a base with the walls just taped together first. If not, I'll probably add an interior substructure of foamboard to butt against the plastic walls. Don't know yet; I've seen other people use very thin plywood as substructures. I really enjoy watching the way you paint your wooden portions of the kits. Something I want to emulate.
Adding the second story is a concern for me and something I've been thinking through. I have considered putting it on some foamboard like you mention. However, there will be tracks (that I've already laid) between the two buildings. I may attach it to some foamboard and then cut out the middle right before I install it on the layout. I will probably wait to make that decision until after I've added the second story and then see how sturdy it feels. Creating realistic wood effects using styrene is a challenge, and I'm pretty satisfied with this method.
@@WhiteRiverLine Putting together two strips of foamboard that extend beyond each end of the two sheds, then gluing cross strips on the ends of the two bottom pieces of foamboard might be the answer. That way, you could mock up the foamboard to make sure it clears the track you've laid, glue the crosspieces in place, and once it sets, lift it off, take it to the workbench and mount the structure on it. Once the structure is finished, lift it and the foamboard cradle to the layout and cut away the extended endpieces and crosspieces that support the two sheds and second story. That should provide the stiffness needed to keep everything from twisting when lifted and be a lot easier to remove than cutting away foam inside of the structure after it's sitting on the layout. If the foamboard puts the structure too high over the track, you could cut away one end of the cradle once the building is in place, then slide the whole structure off and pull the cradle out from under it.
You've done a great job with those lumber sheds. This is what I like the most : Modifying kits. You're paying soooo much attention to details. Keep on your good work. Can't wait to see the final result.
Thanks, Luc.
A breakfast sandwich and orange juice plus a White River Line video! No better way to spend your break!
Thank, Yukon. Happy Friday!
Are you sure you’re a beginner model railroader? You appear to have amazing skills and the results are incredible. Such a pleasure to watch you work and see the results. Your videos are like a warm blanket for the soul. Keep up the great work. 😊
Thank you for the great compliments. This is indeed my first layout, and I’m taking time to make sure I do it well.
Your finish looks so much like real wood, great techniques when working with plastic, thanks for sharing!
Thanks, John. I'm really satisfied with how this technique looks.
Nice Kit-bash, Drew, on a classic Atlas kit. Looking forward to the finished complex.
Thanks, Paul. One of the challenges of the Atlas kits is that aren't super high quality.
Nicely done Drew! This looks really good and I can't wait to see it on the layout. - Jason
Thanks, Jason. It'll probably be one of the first structures I install.
Awesome. You get the most 'realistic" looking plastic wood out there. It's amazing! Well done sir.
Thanks. The oil wash is the key in my opinion.
Good video! You want to put oil paints on cardboard before using them so the cardboard will leach some of the oil from the paint so it won't take a long time for the paint to dry.
Thanks. That makes a lot of sense!
Removing excess oil improves the body of the paint as well as quickening drying time.
That makes sense, thanks, Robin.
I just finished a scratch build of lumber drying & storage shed in HO scale. The wife even liked my results. After I watched you build a Tichy Train Group flat car I had to build one too. Mine came out great and I even painted every board on the deck a different shade of brown. Cheers from eastern TN
I don't know if he's one of the "other youtubers" you mentionned in the oil wash stage of the video but I recommend watching Nightshift RUclips channel. He does armor models but he did start making vignettes and dioramas for most of his builds in the past year and his painting skill is off the chart!! His videos are really chill and usually focus on a new technique he's trying out. It's very useful regardless of the modelling or scale you work in!
Yes! Night shift is very talented. One of my favorites!
Good morning! First time watching one of your videos on the day it's released! You've been doing great work so far keep it up!
Thanks for joining, Kevin.
Nice structure build…really like the painting de5ail on the individual lumber boards
Thanks! It can be a lot of work, but it's worth it in my opinion.
Your lumber yard models look great! Drawing out the oil allows the paint to dry faster. If you leave the oil in the paint it takes a long time to dry. If you leave the oil paint on the cardboard too long the paint will get dry and hard to work with. If that's the case just add some odorless Turpenoid to make it useable again. I'm just getting started on a model railroad but I've been building military models for a few years and I use oil paints during the weathering process. Odorless Turpenoid is available at most arts and crafts stores and is compatible with oils and enamels and is much less expensive than small bottles of enamel thinner. I wonder if Pontiac (RIP) knows Dale's Pale Ale is using their Firebird logo? haha
Thanks for the info, Steve, that make a lot of sense. I've stolen a lot of techniques from armor modelers, especially @NightShiftScaleModels and @Panzermeister36. Pontiac/GM is well aware and Oskar Blues (who makes Dale's Pale Ale) got a cease and desist from them when they made that shirt, so it's kind of a rare shirt, or so I've been told.
@@WhiteRiverLine those are a couple great armor modeling channels, especially Night Shift. Haha on the shirt. I have a 74 Trans Am that has the big firebird on the hood (2nd year for the hood decal). My channel is a combination of my hobbies with armor modeling and muscle car restoration. I have some model railroad stuff but not much, I hope to add more. I look forward to your next video.
@@SPSteve I’ll check your channel for sure then.
Don't worry, PMD has been gone since 1984 (just an empty brand name after), and those running GM since don't really care, probably don't even recognize what the 'Screaming Chicken' is.
@@jeffbranch8072 GM certainly isn't what it used to be. My last GM was a 2006 Pontiac GTO. Since GM killed off Oldsmobile and Pontiac I stopped buying GM.
Drew, you're almost at 3k subscribers! Congrats!
Thanks, Chris. The last few weeks have been amazing!
Another great video! Love watching the way you do things. Keep the videos coming!
Thank, John!
It’s coming along very njce. Love kitbashing
Thank you. I'm enjoying this process. A lot of problem solving to do.
Looking great!
Awesome build man!!!! I like how you got it looking good!! I see you hand lay your track. Very cool! I'll be hand laying my track too.
Thank you. Good luck on that track!
Thanks man!! @@WhiteRiverLine
Very nice, enjoyable watching! (Dave).
Many thanks!
@@WhiteRiverLine Your welcome.
Great work!
Thank you
Great job Drew. I have now completed, going back and, watching ALL of your videos to date. What impresses me is your apparent humility as a modeler. You're actually quite good.
From watching you and other similar channels, I can say this; More than 80% of model building is prep and painting, followed by detailed assembly, and finally add accenting details (Barrels, pallets, shovels, figures, etc.)
The time involved in building a detailed (mimic real life) model, takes years, even for a model railroad of the size you're building. I salute your tenacity. Keep up the outstanding work.
Remember this; Even though you are using the Frisco Line for your prototype, THIS IS YOUR RAILROAD, always make it your railroad. Just as Steve Brown did with his at the "Its My Railroad" channel ;-)
Thanks so much, Robert. The work itself creates some humility. Even for modeler more skilled and experienced than me, there are always things to learn and improve and failures to overcome. I agree that the prep work is key and it takes some discipline and patience to not be tempted to skip it. Thanks also for your encouragement to make it MY railroad, this is the approach that keeps me going.
Great job and the detailing super... Going to be a nice complex Thnx
Thanks, it is going to be on the end of the peninsula of my layout and somewhat prominent so I'm taking my time.
Hi Drew, your lumber yard is coming out great. I have never heard about letting oil paint sit out for awhile and the reason for it seems worth trying.
Your choices of Vallejo colors was great and I'm wondering if you picked up some of their sets of colors or bought separately. If a set which one(s)? Thanks
Thanks, John. Yes, these colors are from the old and new wood effect set. There is a link to the set on Amazon in the description.
Very nice. I will be interested to see how you add the second story and keep the model from twisting apart. Were you planning on adding something like foamboard (the thin Elmer's foam core board, roughly 1/4 inch thick) under the entire complex so it can be moved as a unit and I just missed that part?
I'm asking because I've got a large industry I'm planning for multiple car spots - using most of the walls from 2 Walthers' Red Wing Milling to create a roughly 3 foot long background building about 2 to 4 inches deep - and having the thing flex apart as I go to install it is a real concern for me. I'm going to test to see if one or maybe two thicknesses of the foamboard underneath will provide enough strength for a base with the walls just taped together first. If not, I'll probably add an interior substructure of foamboard to butt against the plastic walls. Don't know yet; I've seen other people use very thin plywood as substructures.
I really enjoy watching the way you paint your wooden portions of the kits. Something I want to emulate.
Adding the second story is a concern for me and something I've been thinking through. I have considered putting it on some foamboard like you mention. However, there will be tracks (that I've already laid) between the two buildings. I may attach it to some foamboard and then cut out the middle right before I install it on the layout. I will probably wait to make that decision until after I've added the second story and then see how sturdy it feels.
Creating realistic wood effects using styrene is a challenge, and I'm pretty satisfied with this method.
@@WhiteRiverLine Putting together two strips of foamboard that extend beyond each end of the two sheds, then gluing cross strips on the ends of the two bottom pieces of foamboard might be the answer. That way, you could mock up the foamboard to make sure it clears the track you've laid, glue the crosspieces in place, and once it sets, lift it off, take it to the workbench and mount the structure on it. Once the structure is finished, lift it and the foamboard cradle to the layout and cut away the extended endpieces and crosspieces that support the two sheds and second story.
That should provide the stiffness needed to keep everything from twisting when lifted and be a lot easier to remove than cutting away foam inside of the structure after it's sitting on the layout.
If the foamboard puts the structure too high over the track, you could cut away one end of the cradle once the building is in place, then slide the whole structure off and pull the cradle out from under it.
Awesome idea. I think that would work very well.
“I don’t why I do this, but I’ve seen other modelers do this” No better reason…😂
So true. Lol