Thanks again for sharing your work with us Drew ! Big roofs. Always like a pain in the a... ! At the end, I like the result because you've created a one of a kind building by customizing it instead of sticking with the original kit. Tip of the hat ! Never easy to make everything fits after modifying the main parts of a kit. That's what I like the most with buildings. The challenge of changing the way they look in something unusual. Keep on your good work.
Like a few other commenters on this channel; I'm going to have to call BS on your intro and being an amateur!!! Seriously though, some epic designs and implementation to this kit bash! Extremely well done and gave me lots of insight/points to consider. I WILL be plagiarizing some of your work LOL. Well done mate!
Hi Drew, your lumber yard is coming out great. I like your idea of adding more gluing surface with the tabs. I have started a kit bash using Walthers brick freight house. Turning it into a 5 story warehouse of some sort. Cut off the doors on one long wall and just glued it on top of what will be the trackside wall. So far so good.
Forgot... I'm a bit desapointed that you glued the whole building on that foam base material. To my point of view, it was looking strong enough and better without it. At the end, you will install the building on a steady base on your layout. You won't have to move it several times. After a few nights letting everything cure, you would have been surprised on how strong it would get. My opinion... it's YOUR layout. I respect your work.
When I install it on my layout I'm going to need to raise it up off the layout a bit to meet the level of the rails between the 2 sheds and a car can pass through under the millwork. I agree, the foam base looks bad right now, but I think in the end it'll be better for it.
@@WhiteRiverLine Hi again Drew, many thanks for answering. I like your videos very much. You remind me a lot of myself. Looks like we are pretty much the same age and working a perfectionist way in everything. I'll explain why I don't like the foam card : I'm used to glue "plateforms" on modules and then, putting buildings over them. This way, I know two very important things. First, the plateform will be leveled and will not move at all. Second, I have control of it if painting and gluing scenic on and around it could bend it when drying. I'm never using foam card even if it's a stable material. For me, it's a "surprise" material I'm avoiding. But I repeat, I do respect the way you're doing things. A modeler that put handlaid tracks on his layout is always to my eyes in an upper class. Keep on your good work.
@@WhiteRiverLine Hi again Drew. You're reading my mind. I'm using 3/16 masonite as building base. Then I cover them with 60 thou Walthers 933-3540 - Gas station parking lot. These are squared plastic gray concrete slab (5 1/4 x 10 and a half Inches) sheets that can be painted and weathered as you like. Gape lines are really thin on them and sheets are thick enough to remain straight and stable. I will try to test them glued on with PL Premium construction adhesive to see if it will stick strongly to masonite. I'm also using double face tape to glue wide surfaces. Name is Tarckett. A very thin adhesive film that sticks very hard to anything. You got to be careful with it cause if you miss, it's impossible to remove pieces without breaking one, the other or both. Stronger bond after 15 days. I'm even using it to glue down rails on smooth surfaces like rails in concrete or asphalt.
Good question. No, It's not textured at all. To be honest, it's not something I put a lot of thought in to. My expectation is that enough of the other details I will add to the the model will distract the viewer from putting too much thought into it either.
Thanks again for sharing your work with us Drew ! Big roofs. Always like a pain in the a... ! At the end, I like the result because you've created a one of a kind building by customizing it instead of sticking with the original kit. Tip of the hat ! Never easy to make everything fits after modifying the main parts of a kit. That's what I like the most with buildings. The challenge of changing the way they look in something unusual. Keep on your good work.
Thanks, Luc. Glad you enjoyed it.
Lumber yard is coming out fantastic! It’s worth a few stitches lol😂
I hope so!
Very cool kitbash. Thanks for showing us how you did it.
Glad you liked it!
This is a great looking project, well done, and several great fashion choices while modeling. 🤣 👍🏼👍🏼
Thanks, Ron! Go, Chiefs!!!!
looks fantastic. Lots of tips on kitbashing. Thanks for sharing this build
Thanks, Joe!
Nice build Drew.. things are coming together nicely..
Thanks, Ed.
Nice job, Drew, this build is coming along great! Hope the finger heals quickly... - Paul
Thanks, Paul. It was pretty clean cut so it should heal nicely and quickly.
Like a few other commenters on this channel; I'm going to have to call BS on your intro and being an amateur!!! Seriously though, some epic designs and implementation to this kit bash! Extremely well done and gave me lots of insight/points to consider. I WILL be plagiarizing some of your work LOL. Well done mate!
Hi Drew, your lumber yard is coming out great. I like your idea of adding more gluing surface with the tabs.
I have started a kit bash using Walthers brick freight house. Turning it into a 5 story warehouse of some sort. Cut off the doors on one long wall and just glued it on top of what will be the trackside wall. So far so good.
That sounds like a great project!
Very good our friend starting to look great, you are very resourceful! (Dave).
Thanks, Dave. Always nice to start getting the pieces together.
@@WhiteRiverLine Your welcome and agree.
Great effort. The assembly ideas are helpful. Thanks for sharing. Hope your finger heals quickly. :-)
Thank you very much!
great work as always Drew, hope that finger gets better
Thank you!
Sometimes you need to take a step back in order to leap forward!
So true. This project is turning into a marathon.
Hopeing your finger heals good 🤞 Keep up the good work 👍
Thank you, Colin. We'll see what modeling I can get done in the meantime.
Forgot... I'm a bit desapointed that you glued the whole building on that foam base material. To my point of view, it was looking strong enough and better without it. At the end, you will install the building on a steady base on your layout. You won't have to move it several times. After a few nights letting everything cure, you would have been surprised on how strong it would get. My opinion... it's YOUR layout. I respect your work.
When I install it on my layout I'm going to need to raise it up off the layout a bit to meet the level of the rails between the 2 sheds and a car can pass through under the millwork. I agree, the foam base looks bad right now, but I think in the end it'll be better for it.
@@WhiteRiverLine Hi again Drew, many thanks for answering. I like your videos very much. You remind me a lot of myself. Looks like we are pretty much the same age and working a perfectionist way in everything. I'll explain why I don't like the foam card : I'm used to glue "plateforms" on modules and then, putting buildings over them. This way, I know two very important things. First, the plateform will be leveled and will not move at all. Second, I have control of it if painting and gluing scenic on and around it could bend it when drying. I'm never using foam card even if it's a stable material. For me, it's a "surprise" material I'm avoiding. But I repeat, I do respect the way you're doing things. A modeler that put handlaid tracks on his layout is always to my eyes in an upper class. Keep on your good work.
@@lucgagnon5241 that makes sense. Masonite might have been a better choice than foam board.
@@WhiteRiverLine Hi again Drew. You're reading my mind. I'm using 3/16 masonite as building base. Then I cover them with 60 thou Walthers 933-3540 - Gas station parking lot. These are squared plastic gray concrete slab (5 1/4 x 10 and a half Inches) sheets that can be painted and weathered as you like. Gape lines are really thin on them and sheets are thick enough to remain straight and stable. I will try to test them glued on with PL Premium construction adhesive to see if it will stick strongly to masonite. I'm also using double face tape to glue wide surfaces. Name is Tarckett. A very thin adhesive film that sticks very hard to anything. You got to be careful with it cause if you miss, it's impossible to remove pieces without breaking one, the other or both. Stronger bond after 15 days. I'm even using it to glue down rails on smooth surfaces like rails in concrete or asphalt.
The U channel you added, it's not textured like wood is it? What material are those sections supposed to be made of?
Good question. No, It's not textured at all. To be honest, it's not something I put a lot of thought in to. My expectation is that enough of the other details I will add to the the model will distract the viewer from putting too much thought into it either.