We have an industrial track here in Cleveland that used to have exceptionally small radiuses. On historical maps I can see a small 3 stall roundhouse that they’d keep 0-4-0 switchers in, everything else was too long!
Looking good, I would have done this a little differently, but that's just me. One thing I like about building turnouts is I can make whatever I need, not just set sizes. It' is a bit trickier to make turnouts without a fixture, but not much. I will say if you do any freehand turnuts make the frog first, I find that easier to get the gauge right.
@@WhiteRiverLine Yes, the frog is key to ANY turnout, including full size. Unless special location because of clearances, frogs are straight on both sides and so are the points. The points and to some extent after years of traffic and wear, the frogs tend to get to be sort of curved in the real world. The lead of a turnout may be changed by about 10% without messing up the characteristics of the turnout and to keep from having to cut additional rails. By that, if a turnout is being laid and the rail available works out so a joint falls within the 10% of change, then that is acceptable to not cut a rail and have a short piece left over or have to use an extra full rail to get the proper length and have a partial rail left over. Try not to cut rails if possible. Logging and industrial railroads don't seem to matter, because they have a bunch of short lengths anyway. Just try not to have joints close to each other on curves on the opposite rails, that tends to introduce kinks and doglegs in the track. It also helps to use shorter than normal switch points. Most model switches are made without actual length and pivoting points.
Brilliant and impressive work, Drew. The work you put into your hand made bits is so impressive! Great video and looking forward to what you can come up with next!
Hi Drew. Your layout is looking good so far. I went through the same radius testing and frustration too. I used the Bachman 2-8-0 also as well as an old MDC 2-8-0 kit that I had built many years ago. The Bachman 2-8-0 as you discovered will go around an 18"R curve and if you care to test it a smaller radius also. Not sure how small. The MDC loco really likes a 22" R much better. For the record I was using some of the Atlas sectional track to test with. Some one mentioned using a double slip in your yard lead. Iffy idea in my experience. I have a Peco code 100 and very few of my locos go through it and none of my steamers. Hand built might be a whole different experience.
Looks good. Curved joint tip: always solder with staggered joints (especially on curves) and also solder with track 'Straight' then when laying it can curve it. Where did you get the cardboard-light/heavy art sheet to create your templates? Definitely larger than a cereal box LOL. Thanks.
Drew, I'm really enjoying your videos. They are very useful and related to the system I would like to set up. One problem I had tracking down your sequence is they are not number in order, but i'll figure it out! Good work.
Thanks, Hardie. Glad you are enjoying them. If you go to the following playlist it has my videos in order of release. ruclips.net/p/PLNjiMTKP7bxR85qAfDjuOYi1m3eC6xDiB
This plan looks great Drew. Only thing I would of done differently to give me a little extra track space is to take the first to turnouts (throat to throat) and replaced with a double-slip turnout but that's just me. Great progress as always! - Jason
Yes, I cut my own roadbed. I go over that more here ruclips.net/video/9H1COXovYy0/видео.html. I use a rotary cutter. I’ll put some more details in an upcoming video too.
First layout build? Wow Drew impressive skills you have, I enjoy following your build segments. BTW... I like that easement template , care to share it's source? Thx - Alex
Drew, great informative video. Just an observation though; you have 2 inch foam on what appears to be risers spaced about every 2ft, is there any other support under the foam? The foam sheets do actually shrink over time and bend (warp) too. Just a thought.
There isn't any other support under the foam. Most of the research I did prior to installing them didn't indicate any support was needed for them. I guess, at this point, we'll see.
I realise it is too late now, but did you consider installing a crossing on the wye. Have both curves from the base of the wye cross each other so they then run parallel and are connected at the top of the wye by a crossover.
I did not. It just didn't occur to me. That could gained me some more space, but, if I'm understanding what you are saying, I wouldn't have had control of which spur the trains route to. A slip could have worked though.
Yeah that’s what I was going to throw out there, 12 months late! Plenty of instances where industrial tracks split off the main and cross each other to maximize use of space. I’m hand laying one now as a test module.
We have an industrial track here in Cleveland that used to have exceptionally small radiuses. On historical maps I can see a small 3 stall roundhouse that they’d keep 0-4-0 switchers in, everything else was too long!
Great video Drew; you're a very methodical, deliberate and skilled modeller! Looking forward to your next video.
Thank you very much!
I’d say it worked out very well! I also like how you stepped down the thickness of the cork.
Thanks!
Really coming along great, brother! Can’t wait to see some trains running!
You and me both!
@@WhiteRiverLine that’s the best part!
Coming along just fine. Looking forward to the next installment; tracks ahead!
Thanks for watching!
This is one your videos that I like the most the rail videos are very good. Nice work
Glad you like them!
Making good progress! Keep up the good work.
Thanks John. Thanks for watching.
Looking good, I would have done this a little differently, but that's just me.
One thing I like about building turnouts is I can make whatever I need, not just set sizes. It' is a bit trickier to make turnouts without a fixture, but not much. I will say if you do any freehand turnuts make the frog first, I find that easier to get the gauge right.
Thanks, Fred. I'm planning on building my yard ladder without a fixture and I've gotten the same advise from others, build the frog first.
@@WhiteRiverLine Yes, the frog is key to ANY turnout, including full size. Unless special location because of clearances, frogs are straight on both sides and so are the points. The points and to some extent after years of traffic and wear, the frogs tend to get to be sort of curved in the real world. The lead of a turnout may be changed by about 10% without messing up the characteristics of the turnout and to keep from having to cut additional rails. By that, if a turnout is being laid and the rail available works out so a joint falls within the 10% of change, then that is acceptable to not cut a rail and have a short piece left over or have to use an extra full rail to get the proper length and have a partial rail left over. Try not to cut rails if possible. Logging and industrial railroads don't seem to matter, because they have a bunch of short lengths anyway. Just try not to have joints close to each other on curves on the opposite rails, that tends to introduce kinks and doglegs in the track. It also helps to use shorter than normal switch points. Most model switches are made without actual length and pivoting points.
Thanks for all the feedback. I appreciate the info.
Brilliant and impressive work, Drew. The work you put into your hand made bits is so impressive! Great video and looking forward to what you can come up with next!
Thanks, Anthony. I’ve got some fun stuff planned.
Hi Drew. Your layout is looking good so far. I went through the same radius testing and frustration too. I used the Bachman 2-8-0 also as well as an old MDC 2-8-0 kit that I had built many years ago. The Bachman 2-8-0 as you discovered will go around an 18"R curve and if you care to test it a smaller radius also. Not sure how small. The MDC loco really likes a 22" R much better. For the record I was using some of the Atlas sectional track to test with.
Some one mentioned using a double slip in your yard lead. Iffy idea in my experience. I have a Peco code 100 and very few of my locos go through it and none of my steamers. Hand built might be a whole different experience.
Thanks, Jack. Always nice to learn from other’s experience.
Looks good. Curved joint tip: always solder with staggered joints (especially on curves) and also solder with track 'Straight' then when laying it can curve it. Where did you get the cardboard-light/heavy art sheet to create your templates? Definitely larger than a cereal box LOL. Thanks.
Drew, I'm really enjoying your videos. They are very useful and related to the system I would like to set up. One problem I had tracking down your sequence is they are not number in order, but i'll figure it out! Good work.
Thanks, Hardie. Glad you are enjoying them. If you go to the following playlist it has my videos in order of release. ruclips.net/p/PLNjiMTKP7bxR85qAfDjuOYi1m3eC6xDiB
This plan looks great Drew. Only thing I would of done differently to give me a little extra track space is to take the first to turnouts (throat to throat) and replaced with a double-slip turnout but that's just me. Great progress as always! - Jason
I didn't think about that. Could have been fun to build a double slip. Thanks, Jason.
@@WhiteRiverLine you can always go back and change it.....lol.
True, but I think I like it the way it is. I've change that design so many times.
😊
Small switchers may make 15' curve but I wouldn't. 4 axle geeps may need 18", 6 axles need 22' minimum?
Wow thanks for sharing. Did you cut your own cork roadbed? and the roadbed for under the turnouts? Did you do a video on it if you did?
Yes, I cut my own roadbed. I go over that more here ruclips.net/video/9H1COXovYy0/видео.html. I use a rotary cutter. I’ll put some more details in an upcoming video too.
First layout build? Wow Drew impressive skills you have, I enjoy following your build segments.
BTW... I like that easement template , care to share it's source?
Thx - Alex
Alex, thanks so much. You can find that template in Trackwork Handbook by Paul Mallery. It's out of print so it can be a little hard to come by.
Drew, great informative video. Just an observation though; you have 2 inch foam on what appears to be risers spaced about every 2ft, is there any other support under the foam? The foam sheets do actually shrink over time and bend (warp) too. Just a thought.
There isn't any other support under the foam. Most of the research I did prior to installing them didn't indicate any support was needed for them. I guess, at this point, we'll see.
I realise it is too late now, but did you consider installing a crossing on the wye. Have both curves from the base of the wye cross each other so they then run parallel and are connected at the top of the wye by a crossover.
I did not. It just didn't occur to me. That could gained me some more space, but, if I'm understanding what you are saying, I wouldn't have had control of which spur the trains route to. A slip could have worked though.
Yeah that’s what I was going to throw out there, 12 months late! Plenty of instances where industrial tracks split off the main and cross each other to maximize use of space. I’m hand laying one now as a test module.
Steam locos need larger radius