Woo-hoo! You can officially run trains even if you need to do some more track installation, such as your yard lead. I am looking forward to future Ops videos. Congrats Drew! - Jason
I need to start building some more rolling stock to get stated on those Ops videos. Need to figure out my lift out/gate are too so I can get they wye finished and be able to turn my trains around.
It would be awesome if there really was a white river line. Having a railroad running alongside the white river with both freight and Amtrak service would be amazing.
I noticed that you mentioned DCC. When wiring DCC bus lines it is recommended that the black and red wires be twisted with about three twists per foot. Enjoy seeing your videos
Thanks for the clear instructional video. I have all my electrical parts now and am ready to start wiring up the layout. I should have done it earlier, instead of using alligator clips on the rail ends, but I wanted to be sure the track plan was exactly right for operations. I have 12 screw terminals for the bus, and will drop feeders in each 4 foot section to their own terminals, with the bus running to these one-by one down the shelf, although bundling drop feeds in 3s like you did would work as well. Thanks! - Paul
I know plenty of people that use terminal blocks to tap into the bus and that probably make maintenance easier. On the other hand, I know one guy that uses wire nuts almost exclusively. I figured the combo of wirenuts and suitcase connectors would keep my taps a little less cluttered. I guess time will tell if it is a good strategy.
Yea but it's worth all if it!!!! I got stuff to build my next 2 modules so I can start building my track for the industry's that will go on them. I got to finish designing where the building and streets go for the 1st 2 modules so I will know where to lay the flex track to get buried in the street. From there I will know where to start on the track on the next 2 modules. @@WhiteRiverLine
I've only gotten about half of my track laid. I'm planning to get a little more done in the immediate future, but it might be a year or so before I get all of it done.
Hi Drew, thanks for sharing your work with us again. You did a very good wiring job. It's pretty neat AND I've learned something new in doing things properly. Keep on your good work. Can't wait to see next video. The ones I like the most are when you're doing buildings. Hope you'll enjoy finally running trains !
@@WhiteRiverLine Hi again Drew, can't wait to see your skills in action again. Have you finished all the trackage laying ? You got all my respect putting on handlaid tracks. This is REAL railroad modeling. Maybe I'll try it some day on a small space module. Like your work !!!
@@WhiteRiverLine Keep on your good work. Not a big fan of KC Chiefs... I saw you wearing jerseys ! They have a really good team. I was up to the Bengals but your Chiefs have beat them. They will have to be more disciplined than last SB against the Bucs ! That's the only disagreement we have for now. You got my complete interest on model railroading.
1. Provide 'strain relief' on wire runs at regular intervals so you don't inadvertently pull something out. Tie knots, use staples--anything will do. 2. Use small 22 AWG wires (about 3" long) to between rails and wire runs below (use strain relief at each point as well so you don't pull wires off the rails--a good staple gun works wonders here). The small gage won't affect current draw, since they're so short and you'll have so many in parallel. This makes it easier to solder to rails and less obtrusive. 3. Solder wires to far (non-visual) side of rails so they won't show. Flanges will not be affected. 4. By all means, use stranded wire-- nobody uses solid wires except houses. Stranded wire is more flexible, less likely to break and has less electrical resistance. 5. Oh dear, do not use wire nuts! They WILL come loose. Crimp or solder them together; cover them with liquid rubber or shrink tubing. 6. Identify each set of wire bundles with a code so you know what goes where. A folded self-adhesive label works well here.
Great Job. You may find that the "suitcase" connectors will not work so good over time. I've seen several folks wiring their railroads say that they fail. It's your railroad, but I would use additional connector blocks for everything, EVERYTHING, and solider the connectors on the wire ends. Yes, it's a lot of extra work, and additional expense, the result is reliability and consistency. Basicly wire the layout like a circuit board. Maintenance is a breeze when done this way. As I've said, It's your railroad, do it your way. Keep up the great work. ;-)
Interesting. I know seen other say that they've never had a suitcase connector fail. I guess I'll cross that bridge when I come to it. Thanks for watching!
@@WhiteRiverLine I've been using suitcase connectors for the last 18 years and if I take a section out or have to take a layout down for any reason I save them and reuse them. I have NEVER ever had one fail. some have been used on 5 different layouts.
On an average week, when do you set aside time to work on the layout, and how long are your work sessions usually? Also, what other locos do you plan on getting? I imagine that 2-8-0 wasn't intended for yard work.
It's hard to say. I generally do an hour or two a day and maybe a little more on weekends when I can manage it. I rarely have time to do much more than an hour or two in a work session. Of course it takes a lot longer since I am shooting video and the days I'm editing video I don't do any modeling at all. I'm still doing some research on what locos to get. I'm thinking I might pick up a 2-10-0 which will stick to the mainline and an 0-6-0 for switching.
Congrats! Just ran my first train this past week on my layout after getting the wiring done and the mainline loop complete. Feels great to finally see something run. Are you going DCC or DC?
Hello! I just recently found your channel. I have watched most of your now. I too have used Fast Tracks to build my layout however I prefer to build my turnouts directly on the layout instead of using the jig. During this video I did not see how you are dealing with the frogs on each switch. Are they dead? How are you powering them? You may have mentioned it in a video I have not watched yet. I am using the Frog Juicer from Tam Valley.
Hey there, would it be possible to get a link or item description for the terminal blocks? I haven't been able to find the three pole variety that you use.
I like your show. I am interesting to do a stage area by using a ladder tracking of HO scale of Atles turnout switch. I need your advice. Thank for your time and understanding my matter. AALWABIL
Thanks for watching, Abdullah. I'm no expert on staging areas. Are you needing some help with the design or building? I can probably point you to some good resources.
Considering the era you are modeling you know they didn’t use continuously welded track as it didn’t exist back then. I highly doubt you will make all of your layout into jointed rail but it would be an interesting challenge.
@@WhiteRiverLine also, what do is the pad with a screen that you use to transfer a building to a sheet of paper and then do the math for scale? Is it cheap or extremely expensive?
It is an LED light box. I initially bought it for viewing negatives and slides for some photography, but it works well for tracing too. They aren't expensive. amzn.to/3WQhlMn
Your name of your railroad leaves me confused, I am wondering if your line is fictitious or after the historic White river route. If fictitious I don't see a problem however if historic the Frisco didn't have the White river route the Missouri Pacific did. enjoy building your railroad it's a wonderful hobby. I have 5 different scales myself I guess you can say I really don't know which way to go LOL
It is fictitious. I picked this name due to historical significance of the White river in the Ozarks, but my railroad is not meant to model the White river route.
I've measure the voltage directly off my DC converter and at various locations on the track and am not seeing any drop in voltage, so I think I should be fine.
Great job from a model rail reader from over 40 years.
Thanks, John.
I love your Track & Turnout the way you make your own.
Great job on soldering all the feeders, I like the under the track wiring, very logical and clean. Keep up the how to videos, very helpful!
Thanks, will do!
Another great video. Wiring can be very tedious. But if done correctly and neatly it makes addressing any future problems much easier.
Thanks, John. Hopefully I did do it correctly and neatly. I guess time will tell.
Woo-hoo! You can officially run trains even if you need to do some more track installation, such as your yard lead. I am looking forward to future Ops videos. Congrats Drew! - Jason
I need to start building some more rolling stock to get stated on those Ops videos. Need to figure out my lift out/gate are too so I can get they wye finished and be able to turn my trains around.
Fantastic Drew!!!! Must be nice to see a train run after all that hard work. I like the idea of combining feeders to one.
Thanks, Yukon. Glad to finally get there.
It’s a very nice milestone to finally run trains 🚂 👍👍
It sure is!
It would be awesome if there really was a white river line. Having a railroad running alongside the white river with both freight and Amtrak service would be amazing.
I do plan on build a White River with the tracks running alongside it. Great minds think alike.
Looking good and very meticulous Even the Pink Panther is giving you a thumbs-up. 😂
Thanks, Tjip.
Most excellent Drew. Love seeing that loco running down the track.
Thanks, Jack.
Nice work, good job soldering and a clean installation. Has to be a good feeling to get a train running!
Thanks, Steve. Yeah, I'm pretty excited.
How you don't have more subscribers and views, is beyond me. This is what model train videos should be like. No fluff.
Thanks, Rob. It just takes time to build up the channel I guess. Although my marketing could probably stand some improvement, LOL.
I noticed that you mentioned DCC. When wiring DCC bus lines it is recommended that the black and red wires be twisted with about three twists per foot. Enjoy seeing your videos
Thanks for the tip. I might be able to remedy that I suppose.
Thanks for the clear instructional video. I have all my electrical parts now and am ready to start wiring up the layout. I should have done it earlier, instead of using alligator clips on the rail ends, but I wanted to be sure the track plan was exactly right for operations. I have 12 screw terminals for the bus, and will drop feeders in each 4 foot section to their own terminals, with the bus running to these one-by one down the shelf, although bundling drop feeds in 3s like you did would work as well. Thanks! - Paul
I know plenty of people that use terminal blocks to tap into the bus and that probably make maintenance easier. On the other hand, I know one guy that uses wire nuts almost exclusively. I figured the combo of wirenuts and suitcase connectors would keep my taps a little less cluttered. I guess time will tell if it is a good strategy.
Hi Drew, must have been a wonderful moment to run your trains for the first time on your layout. I still have to wail some weeks.
Yes it was.
Wow this is awesome!!! You can run trains!!!
I know right. Crazy to think about all the work it took to get there.
Yea but it's worth all if it!!!!
I got stuff to build my next 2 modules so I can start building my track for the industry's that will go on them. I got to finish designing where the building and streets go for the 1st 2 modules so I will know where to lay the flex track to get buried in the street. From there I will know where to start on the track on the next 2 modules. @@WhiteRiverLine
I've only gotten about half of my track laid. I'm planning to get a little more done in the immediate future, but it might be a year or so before I get all of it done.
Very well done Drew. I like your step by step detail and information. You are Right, Ron of "Ron's Trains and Things" is a great resource too.
Thanks, John.
Another great video!!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Hi Drew, thanks for sharing your work with us again. You did a very good wiring job. It's pretty neat AND I've learned something new in doing things properly. Keep on your good work. Can't wait to see next video. The ones I like the most are when you're doing buildings. Hope you'll enjoy finally running trains !
Thanks, Luc. Having reached this milestone on the layout my next couple of videos will focus on some modeling at the workbench.
@@WhiteRiverLine Hi again Drew, can't wait to see your skills in action again. Have you finished all the trackage laying ? You got all my respect putting on handlaid tracks. This is REAL railroad modeling. Maybe I'll try it some day on a small space module. Like your work !!!
@@lucgagnon5241 I’m only doing about half of track for now and Ive got a little more to do before I’m done.
@@WhiteRiverLine Keep on your good work. Not a big fan of KC Chiefs... I saw you wearing jerseys ! They have a really good team. I was up to the Bengals but your Chiefs have beat them. They will have to be more disciplined than last SB against the Bucs ! That's the only disagreement we have for now. You got my complete interest on model railroading.
Great stuff Drew, I enjoyed watching, need to start my layout soon! (Dave).
Thanks, Dave. Now get to work, LOL.
@@WhiteRiverLine you are welcome!
1. Provide 'strain relief' on wire runs at regular intervals so you don't inadvertently pull something out. Tie knots, use staples--anything will do.
2. Use small 22 AWG wires (about 3" long) to between rails and wire runs below (use strain relief at each point as well so you don't pull wires off the rails--a good staple gun works wonders here). The small gage won't affect current draw, since they're so short and you'll have so many in parallel. This makes it easier to solder to rails and less obtrusive.
3. Solder wires to far (non-visual) side of rails so they won't show. Flanges will not be affected.
4. By all means, use stranded wire-- nobody uses solid wires except houses. Stranded wire is more flexible, less likely to break and has less electrical resistance.
5. Oh dear, do not use wire nuts! They WILL come loose. Crimp or solder them together; cover them with liquid rubber or shrink tubing.
6. Identify each set of wire bundles with a code so you know what goes where. A folded self-adhesive label works well here.
Thanks for the tips!
Nice video
Thanks
Great Job. You may find that the "suitcase" connectors will not work so good over time. I've seen several folks wiring their railroads say that they fail. It's your railroad, but I would use additional connector blocks for everything, EVERYTHING, and solider the connectors on the wire ends. Yes, it's a lot of extra work, and additional expense, the result is reliability and consistency. Basicly wire the layout like a circuit board. Maintenance is a breeze when done this way.
As I've said, It's your railroad, do it your way. Keep up the great work. ;-)
Interesting. I know seen other say that they've never had a suitcase connector fail. I guess I'll cross that bridge when I come to it. Thanks for watching!
@@WhiteRiverLine I've been using suitcase connectors for the last 18 years and if I take a section out or have to take a layout down for any reason I save them and reuse them. I have NEVER ever had one fail. some have been used on 5 different layouts.
On an average week, when do you set aside time to work on the layout, and how long are your work sessions usually?
Also, what other locos do you plan on getting? I imagine that 2-8-0 wasn't intended for yard work.
It's hard to say. I generally do an hour or two a day and maybe a little more on weekends when I can manage it. I rarely have time to do much more than an hour or two in a work session. Of course it takes a lot longer since I am shooting video and the days I'm editing video I don't do any modeling at all.
I'm still doing some research on what locos to get. I'm thinking I might pick up a 2-10-0 which will stick to the mainline and an 0-6-0 for switching.
Congrats! Just ran my first train this past week on my layout after getting the wiring done and the mainline loop complete. Feels great to finally see something run. Are you going DCC or DC?
Congrats to you as well! For now I'm using DC, but I plan to convert to DCC in the coming months.
Hello! I just recently found your channel.
I have watched most of your now. I too have used Fast Tracks to build my layout however I prefer to build my turnouts directly on the layout instead of using the jig.
During this video I did not see how you are dealing with the frogs on each switch. Are they dead? How are you powering them? You may have mentioned it in a video I have not watched yet. I am using the Frog Juicer from Tam Valley.
At the moment they are dead, but I do plan on using frog juicers or something.
I bothered you a while ago about the possible reversing circuit you would probably need. Have you purchased that item yet?
It'll be a while until I need that so I have not purchased it yet. I'll probably get something like this, www.digitrax.com/products/autoreversing/ar1/
What suitcase connectors did you use? I have not found any that would connect 14 gauge with 22 gauge wire.
Here is a link to the suitcase connectors I used. They are 3M scotchlok 905 amzn.to/3kHcuQ9v
Hey there, would it be possible to get a link or item description for the terminal blocks? I haven't been able to find the three pole variety that you use.
Here you go. I guess I forgot to add this one to the description. amzn.to/3JGpL5W
I really appreciate this, Thank You!
do you plan on getting more engines. also looking good with the layout
Yes, but probably not for a while.
What temperature did you use to solder feeders to the rails? What gauge wire did you use for the feeders?
I had my iron set at about 800º, but I 'm not sure how accurate it is. The feeders are 22 gauge solid wire.
4:00 - 4:12 The Chief Inspector shows up & leaves.
Yeah, her work ethic is pretty poor. LOL
I like your show. I am interesting to do a stage area by using a ladder tracking of HO scale of Atles turnout switch. I need your advice. Thank for your time and understanding my matter.
AALWABIL
Thanks for watching, Abdullah. I'm no expert on staging areas. Are you needing some help with the design or building? I can probably point you to some good resources.
@@WhiteRiverLine yes l like to have some information. Thank you
This video might be helpful for you. ruclips.net/video/UZjNydhyR9g/видео.html
Considering the era you are modeling you know they didn’t use continuously welded track as it didn’t exist back then. I highly doubt you will make all of your layout into jointed rail but it would be an interesting challenge.
That sounds like an absolute nightmare to model, LOL.
@@WhiteRiverLine also, what do is the pad with a screen that you use to transfer a building to a sheet of paper and then do the math for scale? Is it cheap or extremely expensive?
It is an LED light box. I initially bought it for viewing negatives and slides for some photography, but it works well for tracing too. They aren't expensive. amzn.to/3WQhlMn
@@WhiteRiverLine thank you, I will look into it and thank you for the contents on your channel!
Your name of your railroad leaves me confused, I am wondering if your line is fictitious or after the historic White river route. If fictitious I don't see a problem however if historic the Frisco didn't have the White river route the Missouri Pacific did. enjoy building your railroad it's a wonderful hobby. I have 5 different scales myself I guess you can say I really don't know which way to go LOL
It is fictitious. I picked this name due to historical significance of the White river in the Ozarks, but my railroad is not meant to model the White river route.
You do no the stuff runs on 12 volts huh? there will be a lot of resistance buildup in those wires so youre gonna run in to troubles down the road.
I've measure the voltage directly off my DC converter and at various locations on the track and am not seeing any drop in voltage, so I think I should be fine.
Link to terminal strips?
I overlooked those. Here you go. amzn.to/3wxXF54
@@WhiteRiverLine Thank you
Anyone watching this live in long island NY and are willing to wire up a large scale train set? For Hire ofcourse - please reply here