I was an electrician. They sell drill bits that are long enough to go through several inches, and feet, of material. Before you pull the bit back out after drilling the hole, tape a pull wire to it and then pull the wire through when pulling out the drill bit. Some bits have a small hole on the tip to insert a wire to be pulled back through. If not, you can drill a hole in the tip of the bit. I love your videos!!!
Most rr yt channels cannot explain these concepts. Yours is the first channel that does a decent job . I blame cell phones for destroying the English language!
Great video, Jimmy! Very helpful! I use blue and white wires for my 16-gauge bus wires, to match the blue and white wires of the Kato terminal unijoiners. This helps me avoid confusion. I also use terminal barrier strips as you do. Barrier strips help me keep everything organized and easier to trouble-shoot later on, if necessary. ...Roy
Good point Roy as long as you take care to install your Kato track piece so blue vs white sides are properly aligned and not inadvertently 'crossed' causing a short.
If this question sounds stupid, please excuse my ignorance. I am a beginner at DCC. So I have a large DC track that is a continuous run track with several sections and turnouts etc. It is laid out on 3 4x8 pieces of 1/2 inch plywood with another 4' by 3' section connecting 2 of the 4'x8' where the roof in my attic restricts the width I can use. Using a single DC power pack I can run trains along the entire track with only one connecting track. Recently I bough a ROCO Z21 DCC system with a WiFi router. I have hooked it up and can run DCC engines on it, again, with only one connecting track. So Why do I need to run wires all over the layout?
I think if you are only running 1 or two locos at a time you are fine. I have no issues with my layout losimg power with only 3 feeders. I do keep my led lighting all separate with a JustPlug system and don't run that through DCC..
Thanks for the straight forward steps Jimmy, I've decided I'm gonna make the leap into converting my DC layout into DCC! So excited to start this new chapter in the hobby, I'll definitely be coming back to this video once I get things started!
Jimmy. Great video showing the solid wiring technic used. I am new to model railroading and about have my layout finalized. I would benefit greatly from a simple diagram showing where the track connections are located on the layout. I have not run across anyone that shows this.
Can you make a "turn loop" with DCC? As if you have a big loop where the trains go around, no matter how complex it is the + and - never interfere. But if you make a turnout at some point which then makes a 180 degree turn and attaches to the same line, so that the train can go in the opposite direction, the polarity will be reversed. Is there a way to handle that? You show some isolation thingie at 13:00 but can the locomotive deal with the voltage being reversed at the other track section?
Thanks or this, I used to be involved with model trains decades ago so all the digital controls are a new area for me. But one small thing, I was working in a toy shop in 1974 when I saw the first digital controller for trains. It was just a small circuit board and you had to install it in the loco yourself. I remember it because it was the very first digital product - and the vanguard of a whole new world. I guess 10 years later someone worked out the whole thing and got it running better.
Seeing all those whiskers hanging out from the stranded wire on the terminal strip was painful! Wire ferrules are cheap, give them a try. Great content, thanks!
Thanks for a great video on how DCC and connection of tracks works.. Something that is important is to name all cables if the layout is a little larger to facilitate troubleshooting in the future. Keep up the great videos!
I use DCC (12v) for a small Z scale railway, and Dinamo for the N gauge SwissBrit layout. The latter allows me to have DCC fitted and Analogue trains running simultaneously over the same layout using the same tracks as the system is fully block controlled. I also do no longer have to worry about short circuits as these simply do not exist in a block to block system.
Hey Jimmy I would suggest that you get a drill bit that's 12 to 18 inches long. Makes drilling through all that foam alot easier. They also make a installers bit that has a hole in the tip that you run the wire into and then you can pull your leads. The installer bits are a little pricey but the long bits are not. Lowe's or Home Depot.. just a suggestion. Keep having fun, Chris
I would be very interested in knowing where you get those orange quick connect plugs? Do the wires just push in or do you have to solder or crimp them somehow? If you could provide a link on where to get them, I would be very grateful!
Nice video.I’m starting a new N 36X80 and would find a track diagram with wiring placement would be helpful (suggestion for a future video or add to links on this one).
Hey there cool video. Do you know when you have to put insulated joints. Do you put those for Wyes or Double crossovers or just electrical blocks. Thank You
I know it's been stated so often, but on my 8' x 8' dcc ho shelf layout just two wires, no soldered fishplates, and no apparent issues. Am I missing on something? Should I be adding all this extra bus and feeders if my layout appears to be running fine? Honest question: really wondering if anyone had done a before and after with appreciable difference? Cheer, keep up the good work
As you go along adding more track, frequently test what you have recently added. If you can still move the engine, and or toot the whistle all is still good. If you instead get a short circuit the problem is with what you have added since your last test. Never wait until the end to test things unless you want to waste your time, get frustrated, and then give up on the hobby. Never have more than just the test engine on the track. Never leave tools on the track. Try not to leave anything on the track.
I would use Wagos before suitcase connectors and wire nuts before Wagos. I have wire nuts on the wiring for my trailer and they tend to do very well. That said, the wires actually go into PVC boxes where they terminate with the lights and other signalling equipment. That being said, the terminal strips used here are actually a good option as well.
Thanks for the video. But do you have a video for even more basic DCC wiring then this? I just bought a basic DCC train set and want to step up my game to a layout with accessories and have no knowledge or what to do. Thanks
Anyone watching this if your old school DC He is absolutely correct! Just don't plan on your old trusty multimeter telling you anything about rail power. Visual Rail to rail is best way
Do you have to have a bus to run dcc.also if so how do you make moduel layout pieces have a section of a bus that can be plugged into the other pieces.
Kato went blue and white and yet North America tends to black and red.... I went so far as printing out little pieces of paper and stapling them near connections points that say "Black = Blue. Red = White". It's a visual that works as a good reminder for me.
So I've just got back into the hobby and I want to come back with dcc. I never done it before. For the most part this video was very helpful however I still have one question. Why are 3 feeder wires needed? Is there a rule of thumb for how much track you have therefore how much the feeders need to be spread apart?
Hi Jimmy great video, really enjoying your channel. I am building a DC layout with plans later to convert to DCC - is there any gotchas I need to be mindful of, or any videos out there how to do this. Assume I should build in the BUS wiring from the get go
My digitrax dcs 52 keeps flashing on and off with a ticking noise at the rate of like 20x a second when I connected it to the FIRST dcc bus that was completely isolated. I couldn't find out what happened and need a simple anwser if possible. Thanks!
Thank you very much for replying to my comment. I would love if you could take a quick look at my page and any feedback would be greatly appreciated.I have a new video out today.Hope you like and share.
I need to purchase a simple DC power supply for my HO scale railroad to power LED lights and other accessories. Can you help me to choose between these two selections: a 12V 10A 120W DC Power Supply Adapter 100V~240V AC to DC Converter 12 Volt *10 Amp* Transformer or a 12V 5A 60W Power Supply Adapter AC DC Converter 100V~240V to 12 Volt *5 Amp* Transformer. I don't understand the 5Amp versus 10Amp pros and cons and how each choice would play out / impact my use on the layout. MANY THANKS!
Is it too late for wiring if already ballasted? Very intrested in dcc..dc is very jerky..and since i have a switching yard layout it tends to get in the way
Amazing video Jimmy. Thank you for making this. Clears things up a lot. I am an absolute noob (who loves to drink the locally produced Bayers Premium Filter Coffee). One thing I would like to request you is if its mandatory for beginners to know about Programming Tracks and all the stuff before starting DCC or can i just wire a layout for DCC and the loco will simply talk to the controller? I am only doing my research atm and will probably start the first track in Dec2023. TIA.
Would have thought it more likely that the dcc controller is pulse modulating between high and low dc voltage rather than high and no voltage. Eg, between 10 volts low and 15 volts high but I could be wrong. Might put it on an oscilloscope.
Someone described DC vs DCC in very simple terms. DC you drive the track, DCC you drive the actual locomotive (engine, whatever you call it where you are :) ) I thought that was a very simple, but accurate description. Your description of DCC operation is close but not quite correct though. DCC Uses the DUTY CYCLE to determine 1's and 0's, not "on and off" like digital from say an Arduino. So it is not the "On and Off" that determines the data, but the time the wave is in a certain state that determines if it is 1 and 0. The other note. The system actually swings from -15 to +15 (nominal for HO/OO Scale), not on and off. Although a square wave, this is a form of AC, just not a sinewave AC
Hey man I'm doing my first dcc layout and I'm doing feeders every 3 feet of track. Do I need insulation joints so every 3 feet of track is all on its own or can I add feeders like norman and the track is one big circuit.
Hey, if you put an esp32 on each engine, you can control as many trains as your power supply can handle. Let the esp32 provide the PWM to the engine it's wired to... You can even have them going towards each other Gomez Addams style.. haha Question about track layout... Part 1: What if you combine a figure 8 and oval loop together using 4 switch tracks and a X in the middle? On the figure 8, the inside rail at one end becomes the outside rail at the other end.. When you add the straight rails on each side that connects the top of the 8 to the bottom you are going to have inside rail meets outside rail... I know you can put an insulator between them, but how do you get the train to keep going when the engine crosses from one side of the joint to the other.. The polarity is reversed at the transition. (Both ends of the engine will be the same polarity, when the joint is between the front and back wheels) I am guessing magnetic sensors that detect when an engine is crossing the joint, to keep the polarity on each side of the joint the engine is crossing (the same).. Part 2: My thought would be if the track was constant power (AC or DC) and the train had a bridge rectifier for internal power conversion, then the PWM from it's internal esp32 does the brainwork... of speed and direction...
OK, think I got it worked out... (Super, super, super simple) The 8 will be non-switched polarity..(never reversed) The straight sections will have an insulators at both ends and have a polarity reversing relay. The relay will be controlled by a set/reset flip-flop.(or arduino equivallant) There will be magnetic sensors on both sides of each joint. Call the top joint (set) and the bottom joint (reset). So when the train crosses the (set) sensor, the straight section matches the polarity of the top of the 8.. when the train crosses the (reset) sensor, the straight section matches the polarity of the bottom of the 8.. The train speed and direction is completely independent of track polarity. Controlled by the esp32 PWM inside each engine.. added benefit.. The train can be driven by someone 1000's of miles away...
Did you tin your wire ends to prevent any stray ends from contacting the adjacent terminal? That has always been one of my issues with stranded wire unless using solid wire.
I did not for this one. The strips have solid walls between them. I will do that if the terminals are small and/or really close together with no barriers. Otherwise I will twist them tight or only strip out a short amount.
One other thing I do to ensure that I didn't happen to mix up the wires is to conduct a continuity check between the tracks.. I had a turnout that was short circuited and didn't find it until all the track was installed and leads were soldered.
I have heard that you should run a twisted pair of bus wires when using to DCC, to help with signal lose or interference. Have you had any experience with that? Great vids as always!
cabling is a type of wiring in which two conductors of a single circuit are twisted together for the purposes of improving electromagnetic compatibility. Compared to a single conductor or an untwisted balanced pair, a twisted pair reduces electromagnetic radiation from the pair and crosstalkbetween neighboring pairs and improves rejection of external electromagnetic interference.
Am I able to wire my track with NCE DCC, and wire my switches through separate wires into atlas switch controls that go to the DC terminal of a transformer? Thank you.
According to NMRA, DCC is a digital signal where, "There is no polarity as there are only two possible states: HIGH or LOW." "There are no negative voltages present." This is what you need to grasp your head around: rail A and rail B are mirror images of each other in a high or low state. So take your illustration of a square wave at 2:46 and move the center line (0 volt reference line) just below the square wave; that is how a DCC signal looks like on an O-scope for just one rail. One other thing to note to clear up any confusion; the NMRA web site also states that, "Current flows from HIGH to LOW." That is to say from a High State to a Low State - and that does not mean from a high to low DC voltage potential. Current still flows from a more Negative to a more Positive DC voltage in the locomotive. The real magic happens in the decoder, it gives the DC motor (lights, horns, bells and whistles) in the Loco a difference in potential in DC voltage, and the motor and other things work: example, a +2v and a +5v signal is a 3 volt difference in potential, and electrical stuff will work! The track is fully energized all the time, and the decoder tells the Loco what part of that energy it can use -and Lights, Camera, Action! begins. Forget the DCC coding stuff, the real power is in rails by the Magic in the decoder.
and I could do this if I wanted to use a arduino for say Block signaling effectively making each layout (G scale country) automatic instead of using every single power pack for each locomotive.
@@DIYDigitalRailroad awesome, as this would be perfect for say when a holiday train (or 5 of them) is passing through each country, as each freight and passenger train would have to enter a sighting before giving the all clear.
Couldn't you use really small tube to run wire through? If use a tube just big enough to run the wire through. You can guide the wire through the board and foam a little easier plus it'll protect your wire from rubbing on you base board. At least that's what I'm think. I wouldn't mind hearing you idea about it.
Can't you put the feeder wires directly to the bus terminal instead of adding another 4 position terminal? Drinking Frederick's Michigan Cherry blend of coffee.
Need to remove that clear protective sheet from the foam. That will cause you to have adhesive failures, and nothing but problems. Especially if it ends up on the top where your track and scenery is going to be. I see countless videos where people fail to remove it. Even after being told about it.
I’m new to model railroading so excuse by stupidity but why can’t you just plug the track in with the rail joiners? Seems like a lot of expenses to run wire on the whole track
I was an electrician. They sell drill bits that are long enough to go through several inches, and feet, of material. Before you pull the bit back out after drilling the hole, tape a pull wire to it and then pull the wire through when pulling out the drill bit. Some bits have a small hole on the tip to insert a wire to be pulled back through. If not, you can drill a hole in the tip of the bit. I love your videos!!!
What diameter would you recommend?
@@johnschutt9187 I use a 1/4 diameter. For other applications you may need to use larger diameters...like placing tubes through.
If you are interested i am trying out different bus bars they are called ptfix by phenix contact and they come in many different colors
Thank you for this. Everyone I talk to says I can't run DCC on Kato Unitrak and you just made it look so easy and proved it can be done. Thank you.
Who told you that?!
@@DIYDigitalRailroad People at Mississippi Valley N Scalers at a show in St Louis this past weekend and also people from Model Railroading Live.
@@AlcoLoco251wow i use kato unitrack on my test track Like in this vid its got 2 wires. Blue and white
Most rr yt channels cannot explain these concepts. Yours is the first channel that does a decent job . I blame cell phones for destroying the English language!
Since I discovered your channel, I've been watching your videos regularly and have great appreciation for all I'm learning.
Thankyou my Loco layout sounds great with all my diesels ticking over, DDC so easy its unreal take care from UK
Great video, Jimmy! Very helpful! I use blue and white wires for my 16-gauge bus wires, to match the blue and white wires of the Kato terminal unijoiners. This helps me avoid confusion. I also use terminal barrier strips as you do. Barrier strips help me keep everything organized and easier to trouble-shoot later on, if necessary. ...Roy
Good point Roy as long as you take care to install your Kato track piece so blue vs white sides are properly aligned and not inadvertently 'crossed' causing a short.
If this question sounds stupid, please excuse my ignorance. I am a beginner at DCC. So I have a large DC track that is a continuous run track with several sections and turnouts etc. It is laid out on 3 4x8 pieces of 1/2 inch plywood with another 4' by 3' section connecting 2 of the 4'x8' where the roof in my attic restricts the width I can use. Using a single DC power pack I can run trains along the entire track with only one connecting track. Recently I bough a ROCO Z21 DCC system with a WiFi router. I have hooked it up and can run DCC engines on it, again, with only one connecting track. So Why do I need to run wires all over the layout?
I think if you are only running 1 or two locos at a time you are fine. I have no issues with my layout losimg power with only 3 feeders. I do keep my led lighting all separate with a JustPlug system and don't run that through DCC..
I have never found a wiring video so helpful before, you demonstrated the process so clearly, this means so much, thank you.
Congratulations! I have learned and tried so many things I've watched on your channel. Thank you, Jimmy!
Jimmy!! I appreciate that you matched the flashing arrows to the beat of the music. That would’ve driven me nuts!!
Great video!
Best DCC tutorial I have seen. Thanks for the education.
Thanks for the straight forward steps Jimmy, I've decided I'm gonna make the leap into converting my DC layout into DCC! So excited to start this new chapter in the hobby, I'll definitely be coming back to this video once I get things started!
You explained that a heack of a lot easier than one guy i watched
Thank you for this fantastic explanation, it's a great help as I am new to model railroading.
Jimmy. Great video showing the solid wiring technic used. I am new to model railroading and about have my layout finalized. I would benefit greatly from a simple diagram showing where the track connections are located on the layout. I have not run across anyone that shows this.
Nicely explained. Some many tutorials on RUclips make it very blabby and complicated. Thanks Jimmy. Cheers 🍻
Very nicely explained. You are a natural teacher.
Those tutorials make it blabby because this method only works for a certain type of layout, so this cannot be a general approach.
Can you make a "turn loop" with DCC? As if you have a big loop where the trains go around, no matter how complex it is the + and - never interfere. But if you make a turnout at some point which then makes a 180 degree turn and attaches to the same line, so that the train can go in the opposite direction, the polarity will be reversed. Is there a way to handle that? You show some isolation thingie at 13:00 but can the locomotive deal with the voltage being reversed at the other track section?
Thank you for the explanation of how DCC work!
Would the wiring and buses still work for Ho scale layouts jimmy, and love the video very helpful 😃
Do you have any reversing loops? A video on handling them would be helpful.
Thanks or this, I used to be involved with model trains decades ago so all the digital controls are a new area for me. But one small thing, I was working in a toy shop in 1974 when I saw the first digital controller for trains. It was just a small circuit board and you had to install it in the loco yourself. I remember it because it was the very first digital product - and the vanguard of a whole new world. I guess 10 years later someone worked out the whole thing and got it running better.
Seeing all those whiskers hanging out from the stranded wire on the terminal strip was painful! Wire ferrules are cheap, give them a try. Great content, thanks!
Or, at least, wrap the wires around the screw in the direction of tightening. If you wrap from the wrong side, you get that tangle of copper threads.
You’ve made it look nice and easy! Which it of course is! Keep up the great videos!
👍👍😊
Thanks for a great video on how DCC and connection of tracks works..
Something that is important is to name all cables if the layout is a little larger to facilitate troubleshooting in the future.
Keep up the great videos!
👏👏👏
I use DCC (12v) for a small Z scale railway, and Dinamo for the N gauge SwissBrit layout. The latter allows me to have DCC fitted and Analogue trains running simultaneously over the same layout using the same tracks as the system is fully block controlled. I also do no longer have to worry about short circuits as these simply do not exist in a block to block system.
Impressive!
what about lighting do i have to put all pos wires on one side and neg on the other
Just wiring up my DCC shelf layout so great tips
Good information! I would have crimped my wires before connecting them to the bus. Makes for a better connection. Thanks for sharing.
Great tutorial, Jimmy, and timely since I'm doing this very thing right now!
Hey Jimmy I would suggest that you get a drill bit that's 12 to 18 inches long. Makes drilling through all that foam alot easier. They also make a installers bit that has a hole in the tip that you run the wire into and then you can pull your leads. The installer bits are a little pricey but the long bits are not. Lowe's or Home Depot.. just a suggestion. Keep having fun, Chris
What diameter would you recommend?
@@johnschutt9187 Depends on what you're doing, wire ,1/16, up to 3/8 for the through wire for a tortoise switch.
I would be very interested in knowing where you get those orange quick connect plugs? Do the wires just push in or do you have to solder or crimp them somehow? If you could provide a link on where to get them, I would be very grateful!
Great video made it look and sound so easy. Many thanks keep the video coming
Nice video.I’m starting a new N 36X80 and would find a track diagram with wiring placement would be helpful (suggestion for a future video or add to links on this one).
Hey there cool video. Do you know when you have to put insulated joints. Do you put those for Wyes or Double crossovers or just electrical blocks. Thank You
I'm thinking about dcc while I'm saving to start a layout
I know it's been stated so often, but on my 8' x 8' dcc ho shelf layout just two wires, no soldered fishplates, and no apparent issues. Am I missing on something? Should I be adding all this extra bus and feeders if my layout appears to be running fine? Honest question: really wondering if anyone had done a before and after with appreciable difference? Cheer, keep up the good work
Hi! I am not an authority, but as an engineer KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid!) comes to mind. :-) If its not broke, DON'T FIX IT! :-)
Great video! Lots of take aways on how to set up the bus and feeder wires that I will use on my next layout.
As you go along adding more track, frequently test what you have recently added. If you can still move the engine, and or toot the whistle all is still good. If you instead get a short circuit the problem is with what you have added since your last test.
Never wait until the end to test things unless you want to waste your time, get frustrated, and then give up on the hobby.
Never have more than just the test engine on the track. Never leave tools on the track. Try not to leave anything on the track.
Those wiring connectors that you use to attach your wires to your track instead of soldering, will those only work on Kato track?
what about lighting do you have to follow with pos on one side and all neg on the other.
I would use Wagos before suitcase connectors and wire nuts before Wagos. I have wire nuts on the wiring for my trailer and they tend to do very well. That said, the wires actually go into PVC boxes where they terminate with the lights and other signalling equipment. That being said, the terminal strips used here are actually a good option as well.
I just bought a few 12 inch drill bits
Trying to help a friend convert his Lionel o gauge to DCC. First step is choose a decoder board. Any recommendations?
Thanks for the video. But do you have a video for even more basic DCC wiring then this? I just bought a basic DCC train set and want to step up my game to a layout with accessories and have no knowledge or what to do. Thanks
Anyone watching this if your old school DC He is absolutely correct! Just don't plan on your old trusty multimeter telling you anything about rail power. Visual Rail to rail is best way
Unfortunately my locos are old so they not dcc ready, but still interesting to watch.
Do you have to have a bus to run dcc.also if so how do you make moduel layout pieces have a section of a bus that can be plugged into the other pieces.
Kato went blue and white and yet North America tends to black and red.... I went so far as printing out little pieces of paper and stapling them near connections points that say "Black = Blue. Red = White". It's a visual that works as a good reminder for me.
So I've just got back into the hobby and I want to come back with dcc. I never done it before. For the most part this video was very helpful however I still have one question. Why are 3 feeder wires needed? Is there a rule of thumb for how much track you have therefore how much the feeders need to be spread apart?
Hi Jimmy great video, really enjoying your channel. I am building a DC layout with plans later to convert to DCC - is there any gotchas I need to be mindful of, or any videos out there how to do this. Assume I should build in the BUS wiring from the get go
Great information, but being completely new to the hobby I will take your advice about starting small.
Where to get the little yellow connectors? What do the main wires connect to. How do you join the many buses? I will probably need20 buses!
Can u use metal wheels on DCC that come with ur rolling stock?
My digitrax dcs 52 keeps flashing on and off with a ticking noise at the rate of like 20x a second when I connected it to the FIRST dcc bus that was completely isolated. I couldn't find out what happened and need a simple anwser if possible. Thanks!
Excellent explanation. I wish I could flip my layout on its side. Lol.
I use Bachmann nickel silver ez track do I need to solder the rail joiners to use dcc it my first time trying dcc please let me know thank you
Can you recommend a dcc starter set with a couple engines I’m looking to get into model trains and don’t know where to start.
Thanks for the info very helpful.
Thank you very much for replying to my comment. I would love if you could take a quick look at my page and any feedback would be greatly appreciated.I have a new video out today.Hope you like and share.
Simple and easy, Jimmy. Thanks.
There are unpinning tools for most connectors which can save soldering and re-insulating.
I need to purchase a simple DC power supply for my HO scale railroad to power LED lights and other accessories. Can you help me to choose between these two selections: a 12V 10A 120W DC Power Supply Adapter 100V~240V AC to DC Converter 12 Volt *10 Amp* Transformer or a 12V 5A 60W Power Supply Adapter AC DC Converter 100V~240V to 12 Volt *5 Amp* Transformer. I don't understand the 5Amp versus 10Amp pros and cons and how each choice would play out / impact my use on the layout. MANY THANKS!
Is it too late for wiring if already ballasted? Very intrested in dcc..dc is very jerky..and since i have a switching yard layout it tends to get in the way
Is this for N scale only or can I use this for HO as well?
Very useful thanks you. Found the music annoying though.
Very to the point. Thanks!
Amazing video Jimmy. Thank you for making this. Clears things up a lot. I am an absolute noob (who loves to drink the locally produced Bayers Premium Filter Coffee). One thing I would like to request you is if its mandatory for beginners to know about Programming Tracks and all the stuff before starting DCC or can i just wire a layout for DCC and the loco will simply talk to the controller? I am only doing my research atm and will probably start the first track in Dec2023. TIA.
Do I need just one connection for my layout or do I need multiple? I have a 3 by 6 layout with about 5 different industries with rail access
Would have thought it more likely that the dcc controller is pulse modulating between high and low dc voltage rather than high and no voltage. Eg, between 10 volts low and 15 volts high but I could be wrong. Might put it on an oscilloscope.
Man, it says easy but everything flew right over my head. Im good with wood working but electrical work isn’t my forte
When going thru the foam, use a straw and LEAVE it there. It will assist in integrity of the stacked foam to help keep it in place.
Someone described DC vs DCC in very simple terms. DC you drive the track, DCC you drive the actual locomotive (engine, whatever you call it where you are :) ) I thought that was a very simple, but accurate description.
Your description of DCC operation is close but not quite correct though. DCC Uses the DUTY CYCLE to determine 1's and 0's, not "on and off" like digital from say an Arduino. So it is not the "On and Off" that determines the data, but the time the wave is in a certain state that determines if it is 1 and 0. The other note. The system actually swings from -15 to +15 (nominal for HO/OO Scale), not on and off. Although a square wave, this is a form of AC, just not a sinewave AC
Longer drill bits are available at most big box stores and some hardware and hobby stores.
still no RF based control with onboard batteries for model trains?
You know they make really long drill bits... Useful for running wire through walls, and layouts
What diameter would you recommend?
One that's big enough for the wires you're using
What about a hot wire rod knife?
You can get 1/8 drill bits a foot long at harbor freight pretty cheap.
Hey man I'm doing my first dcc layout and I'm doing feeders every 3 feet of track. Do I need insulation joints so every 3 feet of track is all on its own or can I add feeders like norman and the track is one big circuit.
Hello! You don’t need insulated joints unless your are doing something like making power districts, current sensors or auto reversers.
Thanks Jimmy! Great video and makes great sense! I really liked the bus terminals. Equally useful for N-scale and HO-scale as well. :-)
Are you still wiring your layouts in this manner?
Has anything changed now that it is a year later?
Hey, if you put an esp32 on each engine, you can control as many trains as your power supply can handle. Let the esp32 provide the PWM to the engine it's wired to...
You can even have them going towards each other Gomez Addams style.. haha
Question about track layout...
Part 1:
What if you combine a figure 8 and oval loop together
using 4 switch tracks and a X in the middle?
On the figure 8, the inside rail at one end becomes the outside rail at the other end..
When you add the straight rails on each side that connects the top of the 8 to the bottom
you are going to have inside rail meets outside rail...
I know you can put an insulator between them, but how do you get the train to keep going when the engine crosses from one side of the joint to the other..
The polarity is reversed at the transition.
(Both ends of the engine will be the same polarity, when the joint is between the front and back wheels)
I am guessing magnetic sensors that detect when an engine is crossing the joint, to keep the polarity on each side of the joint the engine is crossing (the same)..
Part 2:
My thought would be if the track was constant power (AC or DC) and the train had a bridge rectifier for internal power conversion, then the PWM from it's internal esp32 does the brainwork... of speed and direction...
OK, think I got it worked out... (Super, super, super simple)
The 8 will be non-switched polarity..(never reversed)
The straight sections will have an insulators at both ends and have a polarity reversing relay. The relay will be controlled by a set/reset flip-flop.(or arduino equivallant)
There will be magnetic sensors on both sides of each joint.
Call the top joint (set) and the bottom joint (reset).
So when the train crosses the (set) sensor, the straight section matches the polarity of the top of the 8..
when the train crosses the (reset) sensor, the straight section matches the polarity of the bottom of the 8..
The train speed and direction is completely independent of track polarity. Controlled by the esp32 PWM inside each engine..
added benefit.. The train can be driven by someone 1000's of miles away...
can you run non dcc trains on a dcc layout, and also the otherway around, dcc trains on a non dcc layout?
Did you tin your wire ends to prevent any stray ends from contacting the adjacent terminal? That has always been one of my issues with stranded wire unless using solid wire.
I did not for this one. The strips have solid walls between them. I will do that if the terminals are small and/or really close together with no barriers. Otherwise I will twist them tight or only strip out a short amount.
One other thing I do to ensure that I didn't happen to mix up the wires is to conduct a continuity check between the tracks.. I had a turnout that was short circuited and didn't find it until all the track was installed and leads were soldered.
I try to keep my positive wire red and negative wire black and green for the points.
*Excellent* thnks for shrng 🙏🙏
I have heard that you should run a twisted pair of bus wires when using to DCC, to help with signal lose or interference. Have you had any experience with that? Great vids as always!
cabling is a type of wiring in which two conductors of a single circuit are twisted together for the purposes of improving electromagnetic compatibility. Compared to a single conductor or an untwisted balanced pair, a twisted pair reduces electromagnetic radiation from the pair and crosstalkbetween neighboring pairs and improves rejection of external electromagnetic interference.
That's necessary at a layout length of about 20 m and longer only.
Do you wrap wires directly to your terminal strips or, as I do, attach blade terminals and then insert to terminal strips? Maybe just a preference?
I wrap directly sometimes, and sometimes I use the blades.
Thank you
Thanks
Why does DCC send the signals along the track instead of using wireless. ??
I like idea of DCC but seems like it will really increase cost of setting up your track and locos rather than using analogue style
Am I able to wire my track with NCE DCC, and wire my switches through separate wires into atlas switch controls that go to the DC terminal of a transformer? Thank you.
Hello! Yes that should not be a problem at all. The switch motors do not directly interact electrically with the rails.
Do you ever re-use the Kato cutoffs?
I do not.
According to NMRA, DCC is a digital signal where, "There is no polarity as there are only two possible states: HIGH or LOW." "There are no negative voltages present." This is what you need to grasp your head around: rail A and rail B are mirror images of each other in a high or low state. So take your illustration of a square wave at 2:46 and move the center line (0 volt reference line) just below the square wave; that is how a DCC signal looks like on an O-scope for just one rail. One other thing to note to clear up any confusion; the NMRA web site also states that, "Current flows from HIGH to LOW." That is to say from a High State to a Low State - and that does not mean from a high to low DC voltage potential. Current still flows from a more Negative to a more Positive DC voltage in the locomotive.
The real magic happens in the decoder, it gives the DC motor (lights, horns, bells and whistles) in the Loco a difference in potential in DC voltage, and the motor and other things work: example, a +2v and a +5v signal is a 3 volt difference in potential, and electrical stuff will work! The track is fully energized all the time, and the decoder tells the Loco what part of that energy it can use -and Lights, Camera, Action! begins. Forget the DCC coding stuff, the real power is in rails by the Magic in the decoder.
and I could do this if I wanted to use a arduino for say Block signaling effectively making each layout (G scale country) automatic instead of using every single power pack for each locomotive.
Yes. If you have a DCC setup, there is a way to detect current draw for block signaling.
@@DIYDigitalRailroad awesome, as this would be perfect for say when a holiday train (or 5 of them) is passing through each country, as each freight and passenger train would have to enter a sighting before giving the all clear.
good vid jimmy
Hiii friend
Couldn't you use really small tube to run wire through? If use a tube just big enough to run the wire through. You can guide the wire through the board and foam a little easier plus it'll protect your wire from rubbing on you base board. At least that's what I'm think. I wouldn't mind hearing you idea about it.
Can't you put the feeder wires directly to the bus terminal instead of adding another 4 position terminal? Drinking Frederick's Michigan Cherry blend of coffee.
Need to remove that clear protective sheet from the foam. That will cause you to have adhesive failures, and nothing but problems. Especially if it ends up on the top where your track and scenery is going to be. I see countless videos where people fail to remove it. Even after being told about it.
I’m new to model railroading so excuse by stupidity but why can’t you just plug the track in with the rail joiners? Seems like a lot of expenses to run wire on the whole track
They aren't tight enough and corrode eventually, I'm sanding, wire brushing and soldering all my joiners because voltage is more critical with DCC.
still confused!
Omg I am so frozen on dcc wiring. 😢 Fear has definitely set in
That was really confusing. This is why I chose Bachmann's EZ Command. No offense.
Good Video. However it has amazes me how old the tech is.