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8:30 you had the Split on Heat mode as well as space heaters? why not just test the Heat on the Split? i'm confused.

You got the alarm because you give power of positive side before you finish all connection on the cells... That can damage the BMS... Next time finish assembly, and for the last one connect red line for positive terminal of the BMS...

Outstanding thank you.

You’re not supposed to cut your balance leads unless you also recalibrate the BMS resistance value for each lead.

It's kinda disappointed that you don't check the voltage of each individual battery to see how well they are balanced 👎

Hey, im a noob but got enough sense to build one of these, im living on my property and do not have electricity until i get my solar up and running... I going to be using that eg4 xp6000 and one of these diy kits to get me going.. my question is, can i build it without balancing the cells?? I have seen some that say yes and some say no, that the cells will balance themselves. With no electricity im going to just have to build it and see, i guess.. but wonder what you thought. Glad i found your channel. Thanks

Excellent video. I have been in touch with your contact, extremely helpful with all info. The problem I have is space, so could I put them in a vertical position against the wall?

Hello and congratulations again for your great video I had a question: can the JK-PB2A16S20P communicate easily with a victron multiplus II 5000VA? what equipment do you need special cable in addition? I'm trying to find out about the bms because as I have a large 24 volt 1300AH battery pack I would like it to work perfectly before investing in the BMS and the victron multiplus II! laurent

2:30 Sorry for the dumb question, but you mention the wires being "upgraded" Upgraded from what to what? I absolutely love the info and totally appreciate the time you spend on bringing all this to us. Be safe😮

That's a really great battery test, even if you had to destroy the case! The battery would be an option for my outdoor ham radio. Thank you very much!

Take a look at the breaker amperage rating, the BMS rating and the cable. The cable size is too thin for 200A

What size wire does your box have from BMS to breaker? You can read it from the lug.

I've bought 4 so far, and shooting for 20. I've seen full capacity from all 4 so far. The lowest being 103ah. I'd GLADLY pay shipping for the bare batties if you can safely ship them! I liked the testing done. Good to know the low voltage cutoff is set slightly low. I'll need to be careful not to drain them that low. I planning on "uncasing" the ones I have after a short test run. Will Prowse have good review so I pulled the trigger. Liked and subscribed, thanks for the information! I'm in the process of a build for myself, this will help people immensely!

Hi Nate, there is a V2 box coming out very soon. Have you heard anything about it, or had opportunity to test/review it?

Batteries, oh snap!

Siekon 12V 100AH Battery: www.siekonenergy.com/collections/siekon-classics-series/products/siekon-100ah-deep-cycle-lifepo4-lithium-12-volt-battery-classics-upgrade?ref=NATESDIY COUPON CODE: NATESDIY Amazon: amzn.to/4dePoWw COUPON CODE: SIEKON2424 DataSheet: www.natesdiysolar.com/pdf/datasheets/battery/siekon/siekon-12V-100ah-product-brief.pdf

As i understand it ,If the input voltage to a lithium battery isn't correct , as in high enough, the bms is unable to balance the cells , as in balance charge , or as with led acid and AGM an equlizeation charge........ If this goes on long enough and the cells become drastically unbalanced the BMS will shut down the battery early....... something to be aware of as it can be a head scratcher and can leed to incorrect assumptions........so if you're useing a charge controller make sure its on the lithium setting and that its set voltage is actually correct for the lithium battery bms....... some of the cheaper charge controllers or older ones don't have a lithium setting but they sometimes have a USR setting which is a setting you can customize set for lithium ......im ol skool and lithium technology is a world away from ol skool....... 😉🙃😎 NZ

Thanks for the video. I wonder how wife (non-tech) friendly these diy battery boxes are. What I mean is if I am not around are they able to diagnose issues without a lot of volt meters and such? Thanks again for your video. I am deciding between server rack batteries and these DIY boxes. Cheap attracts me initially but maintainability will win the day. All the best from north Texas.

Hi, Nate I tryed to buy one of the custom dc to dc converters and I could not get it to go thru for me how did you get the link to work to buy one, when I get ready to buy one next time could you get me one and send it to me?

Why is there no fuse or breaker between the cells and the BMS? A BMS can also cause a short circuit...

Very Nice.

Very Nice.

Hi Nate,i built same thing, i used 1/0 cable from batteries to inverter, is that ok, also im using 2 12v 100ah ampertime batts to make 24v, is that enough (2 - 240 watt panels in series,( about 60 volts @ about 7 to 9.5 amps coming in) is that ok? Great channel, thanks for sharing.

I’m a bit confused. I tried your link to the product. I can place the order for the box but can’t figure out how to add the batteries to the cart, also the batteries I see don’t seem to be the same batteries you are using.

No plug for active balancer

It’s robust yet inexpensive. My little van has a refrigerator & microwave With 2 lead acid batteries Under the hood. It’s been working months flawlessly, using your special converter. I just added a small fan For cooling, powered from the solar panel 😊 thank you ❤

Is Alibaba stocking these in the US or another company? How do I order this from the US? Thank you and great videos on these

How long is the inside unit... Can u help me with some questions i have ..

Just purchased the 250/60. Thank you for sharing...

Great job with your explanations as always. Great job!

I've got one. Just installed it last week. The sooner and longer it sees the minimum of 90v the cheaper it will be. Also.. Using a multimeter is one thing.. but you didn't mention or show the app. Yeah.. it's slow to respond.. and you can't use TURBO mode when on DC only. Hope they fix that. ALWAYS remember to use the AC limiter. 800w to 200w when turned on makes a difference. I replaced a Pioneer 9k with this one. I see no cooling or fam speed difference. Pretty dissapointed for that reason. Yes, it supposedly works with Alexa.. but isn't real easy to connect to it.

Ok my battery box was a stand up box !

What amp fuse are you using? Just noticed the marine fuse on the Pos. stud.

Can you buy the battery heaters to add to a battery that does not have heater?

Thank you Nate. Would you recommend this over the Seplos 280 V2/V3?

15.30 is out ;)

Hey Nate, thanks for these great videos. I ordered 16 cells and this box from their Alibaba store. I will let them know I ordered it from your youtube channel. Question: Am I able to put these 16 cells in the box to make it 12v? (4s4p). if possible, would I have to use a different BMS? I plan to put these in my RV, and would like to use my current Victron 12v inverter and components.

I got a 6020D 60v 20A charger (Wanptek High Power Laboratory stabilized power supply) and set it to 55.2v at 700ma charge (this is after I have charged it as high as it can go) then let it go for a day or soo(with balancer running..) The current is so low that the bms does not shut down and you can creep up on the 55.2v when all the battery curves converge on each others and you have no runners..you may have to tweak that current if you have a very fast runner battery a little..(ie lower current even more)

The larger cell connection is good for connecting balance leads or active balancer, however they are in contact and laser soldered on the exact same donut shape area, meaning the contact area with cell remains the same.as the one you qualified to be very small.... Now, you should charge the cells to 3.55 Volts one by one and put them in parallel for one day, prior to installation in the case. Also, better protocol would be to use carbon paste under busbars. Moreover, torquing at 8Nm is way too high and could results in cracking the soldering studs. 5-6 Nm is plenty and commonly recommended by manufacturers.

It’s surprising that it doesn’t have overvoltage protection, where you would only have to replace a fuse I know some of the more high solar panel meters have over voltage protection

"Yea I don't think many ppl take advantage of this feature".... pretty normal when you search for information on this 'load' port. -you will find tons of suggestion on what to plug or what not to plug on it. -and you will find nothing on WHY do it. If you dig enougth , you find this small youtube vid. And maybe you start to 'see' what advantage you can take off this 'load' port. But clearly not enought to plan your circuitry !

Does it work at night or cloudy days in a row for those without batteries?

A disconnect needs to be added to these units, have 2 of them and if the bus bar that they are connected to is live the unit will start charging or discharging no mater what position the push button is in

thanks for all this ....what about the cart that ive seen in some pics online ?

could use a nylon washer on the PCBs

What's the purpose of top balancing? is it just to make the batteries last longer? Sorry I'm new to this and trying to learn. I plan on buying this DIY kit to put together and install in an RV, but right now I'm trying to learn all this terminology.

Love it

I would install the PCBs before the busbars to avoid the hazard of a short circuit.

Thanks for this! Great video and I may roll my own now!

👍👍