Aside from a torque wrench, basic tools are all you need to build this kit! Please see below for Yixiang contact info. You can also reach them via the Alibaba link. Becky's (Yixiang) contact info: www.natesdiysolar.com/where-to-buy-cells ✔ YIXIANG 48V DIY Battery Kit www.alibaba.com/product-detail/YIXIANG-Lifepo4-Battery-DIY-Empty-Cases_11000014403009.html?spm=a2747.product_manager.0.0.273b71d2RKytSF
Well Nate with your video help got my first one put togeather. I got computor access and bluetooth access and programed the bms settings. Thanks for your help.
Nice. That's a decent amount of storage.. FYI, the v2 box is out now with an upgraded CB and fire suppression. I'll do a video on it when it arrives in late Jan probably
Great video just what a newbie would be looking for. These Yixiang DIY boxes seem to have everything you need, I also like the larger dual bolt terminals on the cells with increased surface area to the busbars. I would be happy to bolt a larger 10KVA inverter to this battery knowing it can supply 200A no problem.
The contact area of m6 studs are just as good as the dualpole versions. Andy from Offgrid did already some tests. For 300A both are fine. The downside of the dualpole ones are that with enough force/torque they can break off. The m6 are more robust. Also this is already tested and reviewed. But if you have duals, it should be normally no problem.
The larger cell connection is good for connecting balance leads or active balancer, however they are in contact and laser soldered on the exact same donut shape area, meaning the contact area with cell remains the same.as the one you qualified to be very small.... Now, you should charge the cells to 3.55 Volts one by one and put them in parallel for one day, prior to installation in the case. Also, better protocol would be to use carbon paste under busbars. Moreover, torquing at 8Nm is way too high and could results in cracking the soldering studs. 5-6 Nm is plenty and commonly recommended by manufacturers.
I just used MB31 cells from Docan to build my Apexium JK BMS DIY kit. They work just fine. If you’re pulling more than 50 A on one battery you need to add more batteries.
@@natesdiysolar no. It has 400A fuse. One rarely needs to turn off their batteries, so a breaker is another point of failure. I can turn off the output with the jk app, the included push button switch or just push the release button on the cable end connector and pull it off. All of my diy batteries without fancy boxes have 100A double pole breakers with 125A class t fuse between cell 8 and 9.
@USA-GreedyMenOfNoIntegrity that's actally a good idea. I was thinking about doing that. Putting a fuse between 8 and 9. I also have the apexium box.. yes 400a fuse.. I have a video about it... you can now order the box with a Breaker.
Not recommend due to weight on the cells.. vertical boxes will have columns of 4 cells stacked side end to end to minimize this. Please confirm with the manufacturer
I just watched it. The cells he showed had helix coil inserts and not aligned well. Plus, those screw inserts are terrible. A m6 bolt is better as it will not penitrate through. I'll check the torque difference on my pack to see if the bus bars are flat flush over the surface. Good info tho
on some vids from the factories in china they have a cart that is wider on the bottom like 45%.... ask them ...thanks for the link from ali ...i will order after my inverters are in ( 3 eg4 6000xp )
Just fabulous just fabulous!! Why did u not go with the largest 300 batteries rather than the 280 batteries? Could the BMS. Handle the larger capability 300 or was it that the battery size was to big for the metal box??
Really appreciate your time spent explaining the process. I will be building my own soon using the new EVE cells. You have given me the confidence. I'm still debating which of the 2 boxes to go with though.
Hi. If you use the JK bms, it comes with a 2a active balancer, but if you want an external check out, Andy's page here. The neey is fairly popular. off-grid-garage.com/battery-management-systems-bms/ Scroll to bottom of page
I built a Apex 48 volt battery with 280 Ah cells from Duncan about a month ago. I like your box and external connections except there’s only one set. I like the large disconnect switch and larger monitor. You have a good point with the cell studs contact area but the Apex has a separate screw on the bus bar for the BMS wire connections which Is nice. How long did it take to get the box and battery cells? Did you order them together or separately? Thanks for the video.
Hi. I also have an Apex box and did a video on it if you want to see.. external connections? Do you mean the battery terminals... it has 2 sets. It takes about 27 days to arrive after you order. I ordered the box and cells from the same place.. yea I asked them to put a threaded hole for the balance lead in the bus bar... my apex box did not have those. Yea the studs are nice but for a 48v pack.. the regular welded single stud are just fine but I like the double bolt hole. Thanks for watching!
The walrus comes with a built-in inverter, so it's hard to compare apples to apples.. have a look at my review video of this box. I do a comparison of common rack mount batteries vs. This one. This is just a battery only where the walrus is a complete all in one solution.
You got the alarm because you give power of positive side before you finish all connection on the cells... That can damage the BMS... Next time finish assembly, and for the last one connect red line for positive terminal of the BMS...
I was unable to find this kit on amazon. Alibaba would be very difficult in my mobile lifestyle u c. Would u have anything else to get the kit fromthanks thanks for UT time and efforts
Is the JK Jikong BMS found in Google play store or you can get the APK here.. Android only. drive.google.com/drive/mobile/folders/1i0gqmxzb4OBCts5G0TuFlGNGpP2g12es?usp=sharing
Sure, I'll do that in the next video. But each battery has 2 possible and 2 negative terminals. You just connect them in parallel. Positive to positive and negative to negative.
@Franky6767 oh ok. Yea I need to see if my inverter can do that first.. but I plan on it in future.. but if u need to know more take a look at Andy off grid garage on YT. He's got a lot of videos on comms. I currently have 2 different bms so they won't com but I'm building a 2nd jk battery and we will see then
Hello Nate, great video, i just build my first Yixiang 48V DIY Battery Kit with 280Ah EVE cells, I found something strange..... Maybe this is interesting for everyone.!! While installing the battery I noticed something, All batteries were between 0.19mΩ and 0.20mΩ before I placed them in the DIY box and compressed them. But after i placed both PCB boards and before I wanted to connect the measuring wires, I wanted to check the IR again. Very strange, it surprised me a bit. the internal resistance was suddenly 0.30 mΩ on all 16 individual cells. Can you or someone else check that also on your battery? I thought I had placed too much compression on the cells, but that was not the case... as soon as I disassembled the PCB - A and PCB - B, and i measure again, the cells were 0.20mΩ again. Conclusion: probably inductive voltage?? metal over the batteries?
That is strange. Did you connect the bms ribbon cable, or did you simply screw down the pcb boards.. it could actually be the screws conducting current thru the case across the pcb traces. Be sure you isulate the screw heads with insulated washers. Take screws out and measure.
@@natesdiysolar hi Nate, only lay down the metal brackets and screw the 4 3mm bolts. But also If i lay them only on the battery and not connect the screws the IR increases to 0,31 mΩ.
Yes. It's that easy. In other kits, you have to crimp and solder wires .. compare to my 12v build on this channel or on my website.. none of that is required for this.. there are just more cells.. you should have a muti meter, at least. Balancing might be the hardest part, but it only takes a bit of time and patience... it really does not get easier than this unless you bought a pre built ready to run battery, lol. 12v build for comparison. www.natesdiysolar.com/projects/12-volt-diy-battery-build/
0:50 yeah, small surface area... maybe good for ~50A or so... 0:56 definitely larger surface area, at least double! But 250A MCCB circuit breakers have much smaller contact area?
I've tested them (single center stud) on 12v packs up to 150a just fine... they are extremely common. On a 48-v pack, it won't make much difference due to the higher pack voltage.. It's fairly difficult to push 200a out of a 48v pack.. especially in a solar system.. that's over 10kw.. perhaps we need to do a testing video with a 12v pack.
1) You should start by putting the middle plate 1st before putting on the between the cell bussbar. 2) You should not connect Main negative and main positive at the start of build the pack. it should be last or fatre you connect all the bussbar between the cell.
Middle plate? You mean the middle bus bar.. I put that last ao the pack is not energized. Safer that way. Normally, I would connect the mains last, but they were getting in the way, then at end put middle bridge bus bar on then mains. See other video.. apexium build. As long as you don't connect the bridge bus bar then it's OK.
Hey Nate, thanks for these great videos. I ordered 16 cells and this box from their Alibaba store. I will let them know I ordered it from your youtube channel. Question: Am I able to put these 16 cells in the box to make it 12v? (4s4p). if possible, would I have to use a different BMS? I plan to put these in my RV, and would like to use my current Victron 12v inverter and components.
I suppose you could if you just need a box.. yes, a different BMS would be needed. Also, the pcb boards could not be used.. you could probably use the bus bars.. the internal cabeling and DC rated breaker could not be used unless you keep it under 200a. I would use 2x bms. Each managing one side or 8 cells in 2p4s, as you said. Good luck with that. Lmk how it goes.
@@natesdiysolar Thank you for the response. Sounds like a bit more than my limited knowledge will allow. I may just build it as a 48v, and use a step down converter to power the 12v appliances
@@natesdiysolar Yes I'll definitely switch to the 48v multiplus or quattro. I may even just use the 48v system for the AC loads, and then put a 12v battery for the DC loads. I wonder what I would need to change the 12v battery from the 48v system? I'm just thinking this may be more efficient than a step down converter running non-stop.
@mattcruz5915 you would need a DC to DC charger... you can find them.. but if your 12v loads are less than 40a just get a quality dc buck converter and you will be happy. But if you need more then 40a yea get a DC to DC charger and battery. Step Down converters use extremely low power at idel... would take a year to drain that battery if ever. I have several videos and a web page dedicated to DC converters..
It's been proven MANY times over that the amount of surface area on those single post terminals are quite adequate to transfer their rated current without issue. Making a mountain out of nothing..... The fact that you feel you have to overexplain everything repeatedly says a lot.
I would agree with you but more surface area is better especially as time goes on and compromises set in, something that we can't not test efficiently so more is better😊
@@scoobyblu5815 Wouldn't the only situation in which the connection of the cells could be compromised is if the bus bars used are of a dissimilar metal causing corrosion, or, not being properly torqued down etc? Something to that effect. If no other issues exist between the connection of the posts and buss bars, and both can handle the cells rated charge/discharge current, how would adding more surface area to the posts really help if other parts of the build become compromised? Wouldn't an overcurrent situation, if not properly protected, fry any cell with any type of post all else being equal?
I did not ask them, but they did reach out to tell me it was due to "large capacity." I'm not sure that is the correct answer, but the cells tested to 301Ah. I personally could not find anything physically wrong with them.. just seemed like a difference in how they are made. When pressed together with very little force, they are flat. If they were bad, I'm not sure I would be able to press them together by hand.. could be wrong . I just noted my observations between both cells.. these ones and my older ones..
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
Aside from a torque wrench, basic tools are all you need to build this kit!
Please see below for Yixiang contact info. You can also reach them via the Alibaba link.
Becky's (Yixiang) contact info:
www.natesdiysolar.com/where-to-buy-cells
✔ YIXIANG 48V DIY Battery Kit
www.alibaba.com/product-detail/YIXIANG-Lifepo4-Battery-DIY-Empty-Cases_11000014403009.html?spm=a2747.product_manager.0.0.273b71d2RKytSF
I like this build, box and cells are made for each other. Thank you for your video. Great job.
Well Nate with your video help got my first one put togeather. I got computor access and bluetooth access and programed the bms settings. Thanks for your help.
Awsome. I'm glad to hear. Did you do a top balance?
Great review & build. Want to buy 4 of these early next year. Have about 64kWh battery storage @ home.
Nice. That's a decent amount of storage.. FYI, the v2 box is out now with an upgraded CB and fire suppression. I'll do a video on it when it arrives in late Jan probably
Great video just what a newbie would be looking for. These Yixiang DIY boxes seem to have everything you need, I also like the larger dual bolt terminals on the cells with increased surface area to the busbars. I would be happy to bolt a larger 10KVA inverter to this battery knowing it can supply 200A no problem.
Even the regular welded studs would be fine, but yes, they are nice.
The contact area of m6 studs are just as good as the dualpole versions. Andy from Offgrid did already some tests. For 300A both are fine. The downside of the dualpole ones are that with enough force/torque they can break off. The m6 are more robust. Also this is already tested and reviewed. But if you have duals, it should be normally no problem.
Thanks for he info.
does it have connection built in for wall or solar panels? i want a semi portable option for our farm
Not built in. You would need a solar charge controller or a 48v pluhin AC charger. These weigh around 220lbs.
The larger cell connection is good for connecting balance leads or active balancer, however they are in contact and laser soldered on the exact same donut shape area, meaning the contact area with cell remains the same.as the one you qualified to be very small.... Now, you should charge the cells to 3.55 Volts one by one and put them in parallel for one day, prior to installation in the case. Also, better protocol would be to use carbon paste under busbars. Moreover, torquing at 8Nm is way too high and could results in cracking the soldering studs. 5-6 Nm is plenty and commonly recommended by manufacturers.
I just used MB31 cells from Docan to build my Apexium JK BMS DIY kit. They work just fine. If you’re pulling more than 50 A on one battery you need to add more batteries.
Nice. Iv pulled 130a from one battery just testing, but yea, typically not. How do u like the mb31.. did your box have a Breaker.
@@natesdiysolar no. It has 400A fuse. One rarely needs to turn off their batteries, so a breaker is another point of failure. I can turn off the output with the jk app, the included push button switch or just push the release button on the cable end connector and pull it off. All of my diy batteries without fancy boxes have 100A double pole breakers with 125A class t fuse between cell 8 and 9.
@USA-GreedyMenOfNoIntegrity that's actally a good idea. I was thinking about doing that. Putting a fuse between 8 and 9. I also have the apexium box.. yes 400a fuse.. I have a video about it... you can now order the box with a Breaker.
thanks for the presentation!! can i place the box vertically?
Not recommend due to weight on the cells.. vertical boxes will have columns of 4 cells stacked side end to end to minimize this. Please confirm with the manufacturer
I am glad l found your channel, mine did not have any build sheet at all.
Was it this exact box?
Yes it was
I would install the PCBs before the busbars to avoid the hazard of a short circuit.
Should be doable.
0:46 stud itself as also a contact space.
It should not be used as a means of conduction, but yes.
I have just watched the Sun Fun Kits vidio on the pros and cons of the different terminals. Worth a watch.
He's hard to watch and mumbles though 😮
I actually want to test the terminals to see if there is any substantial difference
What were the results of his testing...
I just watched it. The cells he showed had helix coil inserts and not aligned well. Plus, those screw inserts are terrible. A m6 bolt is better as it will not penitrate through. I'll check the torque difference on my pack to see if the bus bars are flat flush over the surface. Good info tho
thanks for all this ....what about the cart that ive seen in some pics online ?
The cart?
on some vids from the factories in china they have a cart that is wider on the bottom like 45%.... ask them ...thanks for the link from ali ...i will order after my inverters are in
( 3 eg4 6000xp )
Just fabulous just fabulous!! Why did u not go with the largest 300 batteries rather than the 280 batteries? Could the BMS. Handle the larger capability 300 or was it that the battery size was to big for the metal box??
The BMS could certainly handle 320Ah even. I did 280 cause my older already existing batteries and cells are 280Ah, so I wanted to keep them matched.
@@natesdiysolar seems with same bms you can mix. I am going to use pack with 5kwh together with a pack of 16kwh.
Really appreciate your time spent explaining the process. I will be building my own soon using the new EVE cells. You have given me the confidence. I'm still debating which of the 2 boxes to go with though.
@@MrDonking1967 i ordered the Luyuan box. Other dc breaker.
Aren't 280 cells supposed to have the longest lifetime while 300+ are extra capacity but less cycles?
Take a look at the breaker amperage rating, the BMS rating and the cable. The cable size is too thin for 200A
Suggestions on the. Best battery ballancer for this build model type and where can we acquire it and placing it into this build. Thanks again!!
Hi. If you use the JK bms, it comes with a 2a active balancer, but if you want an external check out, Andy's page here. The neey is fairly popular.
off-grid-garage.com/battery-management-systems-bms/
Scroll to bottom of page
I built a Apex 48 volt battery with 280 Ah cells from Duncan about a month ago. I like your box and external connections except there’s only one set. I like the large disconnect switch and larger monitor. You have a good point with the cell studs contact area but the Apex has a separate screw on the bus bar for the BMS wire connections which Is nice. How long did it take to get the box and battery cells? Did you order them together or separately? Thanks for the video.
Hi. I also have an Apex box and did a video on it if you want to see.. external connections? Do you mean the battery terminals... it has 2 sets. It takes about 27 days to arrive after you order. I ordered the box and cells from the same place.. yea I asked them to put a threaded hole for the balance lead in the bus bar... my apex box did not have those. Yea the studs are nice but for a 48v pack.. the regular welded single stud are just fine but I like the double bolt hole. Thanks for watching!
Awesome video. Would the WALRUS G2 12K INV. 13 kWh Plus 13 kWh Extension Kit be a better buy for the utility?
The walrus comes with a built-in inverter, so it's hard to compare apples to apples.. have a look at my review video of this box. I do a comparison of common rack mount batteries vs. This one. This is just a battery only where the walrus is a complete all in one solution.
@@natesdiysolar Than you for your reply.
You got the alarm because you give power of positive side before you finish all connection on the cells...
That can damage the BMS...
Next time finish assembly, and for the last one connect red line for positive terminal of the BMS...
The alarm was because the password was not set.
Why is there no fuse or breaker between the cells and the BMS?
A BMS can also cause a short circuit...
I will ask them. One thing, although not safety related, is that it could affect the bms voltage reading of the pack.
I was unable to find this kit on amazon. Alibaba would be very difficult in my mobile lifestyle u c. Would u have anything else to get the kit fromthanks thanks for UT time and efforts
Hi. Check the Apexium battery kit.. they should have some in Houston by end of month.
@@natesdiysolar thanks & carpe diem!!
I think the jk bms has a 2a active balancer built in.
Yes
What app are you using for this box
Is the JK Jikong BMS found in Google play store or you can get the APK here.. Android only.
drive.google.com/drive/mobile/folders/1i0gqmxzb4OBCts5G0TuFlGNGpP2g12es?usp=sharing
See other comment
Thank you for your help
Great Video, thanks a lot! Will you show us how to connect several boxes together?
Sure, I'll do that in the next video. But each battery has 2 possible and 2 negative terminals. You just connect them in parallel. Positive to positive and negative to negative.
@@natesdiysolar ok, but how communicate the BMS‘s with each other?
@Franky6767 oh ok. Yea I need to see if my inverter can do that first.. but I plan on it in future.. but if u need to know more take a look at Andy off grid garage on YT. He's got a lot of videos on comms. I currently have 2 different bms so they won't com but I'm building a 2nd jk battery and we will see then
@@natesdiysolar thank you Sir !
Hello Nate, great video, i just build my first Yixiang 48V DIY Battery Kit with 280Ah EVE cells, I found something strange..... Maybe this is interesting for everyone.!! While installing the battery I noticed something, All batteries were between 0.19mΩ and 0.20mΩ before I placed them in the DIY box and compressed them. But after i placed both PCB boards and before I wanted to connect the measuring wires, I wanted to check the IR again. Very strange, it surprised me a bit. the internal resistance was suddenly 0.30 mΩ on all 16 individual cells. Can you or someone else check that also on your battery? I thought I had placed too much compression on the cells, but that was not the case... as soon as I disassembled the PCB - A and PCB - B, and i measure again, the cells were 0.20mΩ again. Conclusion: probably inductive voltage?? metal over the batteries?
That is strange. Did you connect the bms ribbon cable, or did you simply screw down the pcb boards.. it could actually be the screws conducting current thru the case across the pcb traces. Be sure you isulate the screw heads with insulated washers. Take screws out and measure.
@@natesdiysolar hi Nate, only lay down the metal brackets and screw the 4 3mm bolts. But also If i lay them only on the battery and not connect the screws the IR increases to 0,31 mΩ.
@@Ronozzie2002 that is very strange. I'll have to investigate when I build another battery
@@natesdiysolar ok ty Nate, maybe if someone else also check the iR before connect the ribbon cable.
Hi Nate , would you recommend this project as a first time build?
Yes. It's that easy. In other kits, you have to crimp and solder wires .. compare to my 12v build on this channel or on my website.. none of that is required for this.. there are just more cells.. you should have a muti meter, at least. Balancing might be the hardest part, but it only takes a bit of time and patience... it really does not get easier than this unless you bought a pre built ready to run battery, lol.
12v build for comparison.
www.natesdiysolar.com/projects/12-volt-diy-battery-build/
0:50 yeah, small surface area... maybe good for ~50A or so...
0:56 definitely larger surface area, at least double!
But 250A MCCB circuit breakers have much smaller contact area?
I've tested them (single center stud) on 12v packs up to 150a just fine... they are extremely common. On a 48-v pack, it won't make much difference due to the higher pack voltage.. It's fairly difficult to push 200a out of a 48v pack.. especially in a solar system.. that's over 10kw.. perhaps we need to do a testing video with a 12v pack.
Hi Nate, there is a V2 box coming out very soon. Have you heard anything about it, or had opportunity to test/review it?
Yes, I've been talking with them. I'm very excited about it. I will be testing it. 🙂
@@natesdiysolar any idea when you'll be getting it? Or what improvements there are?
I heard fire extinguisher and heater mats.
@007silverwings I do not know yet. Yes ventilated Box and fire suppression
@@natesdiysolarSpoke with Becky and they have been produced and tested. Any news on your test/review box?
@007silverwings yes. They are sending it out on the 25th but I won't get it for 6 to 8 weeks
1) You should start by putting the middle plate 1st before putting on the between the cell bussbar.
2) You should not connect Main negative and main positive at the start of build the pack. it should be last or fatre you connect all the bussbar between the cell.
Middle plate? You mean the middle bus bar.. I put that last ao the pack is not energized. Safer that way. Normally, I would connect the mains last, but they were getting in the way, then at end put middle bridge bus bar on then mains. See other video.. apexium build. As long as you don't connect the bridge bus bar then it's OK.
@@natesdiysolar middle black plate that press the cell not the bussbar.
@@arebear4797 oh. That's what I did.. the pressure plate..
@@arebear4797 Bus bar
Hey Nate, thanks for these great videos. I ordered 16 cells and this box from their Alibaba store. I will let them know I ordered it from your youtube channel. Question: Am I able to put these 16 cells in the box to make it 12v? (4s4p). if possible, would I have to use a different BMS? I plan to put these in my RV, and would like to use my current Victron 12v inverter and components.
I suppose you could if you just need a box.. yes, a different BMS would be needed. Also, the pcb boards could not be used.. you could probably use the bus bars.. the internal cabeling and DC rated breaker could not be used unless you keep it under 200a. I would use 2x bms. Each managing one side or 8 cells in 2p4s, as you said. Good luck with that. Lmk how it goes.
@@natesdiysolar Thank you for the response. Sounds like a bit more than my limited knowledge will allow. I may just build it as a 48v, and use a step down converter to power the 12v appliances
@mattcruz5915 that's the best way.. but you said your inverter was 12v? I would get a 48v inverter if that's the case..
@@natesdiysolar Yes I'll definitely switch to the 48v multiplus or quattro. I may even just use the 48v system for the AC loads, and then put a 12v battery for the DC loads. I wonder what I would need to change the 12v battery from the 48v system? I'm just thinking this may be more efficient than a step down converter running non-stop.
@mattcruz5915 you would need a DC to DC charger... you can find them.. but if your 12v loads are less than 40a just get a quality dc buck converter and you will be happy. But if you need more then 40a yea get a DC to DC charger and battery. Step Down converters use extremely low power at idel... would take a year to drain that battery if ever. I have several videos and a web page dedicated to DC converters..
It's been proven MANY times over that the amount of surface area on those single post terminals are quite adequate to transfer their rated current without issue. Making a mountain out of nothing..... The fact that you feel you have to overexplain everything repeatedly says a lot.
I never said they were not good studs.. in fact, I said they were very good. I'm just noting the difference... thanks for watching.
@@natesdiysolar You did more than just note it. As with so many overexplained things in your videos, you harped on it.
@@URackADisciprine what did you feel was over explained?
I would agree with you but more surface area is better especially as time goes on and compromises set in, something that we can't not test efficiently
so more is better😊
@@scoobyblu5815 Wouldn't the only situation in which the connection of the cells could be compromised is if the bus bars used are of a dissimilar metal causing corrosion, or, not being properly torqued down etc? Something to that effect. If no other issues exist between the connection of the posts and buss bars, and both can handle the cells rated charge/discharge current, how would adding more surface area to the posts really help if other parts of the build become compromised? Wouldn't an overcurrent situation, if not properly protected, fry any cell with any type of post all else being equal?
I do not see any cooling fans and ducts in your build.
these batteries do not require such things...
The fault lite is for you to change the password
Yes that is correct.
You sure know how to beat a point to death.
Lol I get zealous sometimes
@@natesdiysolar And you have a good sense of humor. 🤣
Batter quality battery should be flat. Why your batteries are not flat? Did you asked them?
I did not ask them, but they did reach out to tell me it was due to "large capacity." I'm not sure that is the correct answer, but the cells tested to 301Ah. I personally could not find anything physically wrong with them.. just seemed like a difference in how they are made. When pressed together with very little force, they are flat. If they were bad, I'm not sure I would be able to press them together by hand.. could be wrong . I just noted my observations between both cells.. these ones and my older ones..
if you not useing the old cells id be interested in buying 4 from you
I'm actually going to use them, just in another build... they are old as in never been in service.. just been sitting in my garage...
Why would you need such terminals?? like you ever do a 200Amps charge or discharge. Cells you got also crap. those chinese always lie.
Most probably don't. Single battery on an EV would do it.
what a bull