My inverters don't float at all for Li batteries. When the BMS reports 100% the charge cycle is over. Had to play with the balancing a little to get something that worked but my cells never deviated more than .030 at the beginning. After about 8 or 10 cycles the cells were better conditioned and by the time I get to the top they are pretty close, less than .010 and below .005 within a few minutes. That's been happening with three batteries at the same time and I'm getting ready to add six more of them. I'm considering switching one of my converters to Lead Acid profile so I can get some absorption and float voltage on the bus from at least one charging source. I don't know, see how it goes from here..... I'm pretty pleased with the JK's. My packs are pretty much charged to 100% everyday or very close so SOC isn't much of a deal right now. Andy at Off Grid mentioned in his last video that they may be coming up with a better solution for the SOC. Guess maybe there's a 15.34 rev for the Fireware coming? hahaha
@beebop9808 yes at maximum there could be up to as much as 4ah difference between the cells and that won't shake out until you get near the top of the charge curve. They come shipped with about 66ah in them plus minus 4ah.. 3.27 is in the bulk or flat area of charge curve... it's not a bad idea to do a natural balance by placing the cells in parallel for 24hrs before building. I don't have the nuts to put 16 in parallel thoughtv lol. Ill do 2 sets of 8.. I did a video where I cycled 32 cells and hand matched them to build a pack with only 1.5ah deviation. Watch the delta under high charge current the more change you see in the delta is a indicator of how well or not well your pack is matched..
This is probably a really basic question, but if you have a good inverter like the EG4 18k or a Solark connected to the battery and have the time to wait, would the balancer work itself out over time to equalize the charge on the batteries? I get that initially you would be losing capacity while the batteries are not evenly charged, but would the JK BMS built in balancer do it's job if you just hooked it up and let it do its thing over multiple days?
It may or may not.. it really depends on your charge settings and if they are meeting the requirements set in he BMS to trigger balancing.. if balancing is never triggered, it will never get done.. unless you are charging from the grid, it may be difficult to get a low enough current for a long enough time to get a proper top balance.. so, in theory, it should work, but I would not recommend it. If it keeps hitting ovp, the BMS will just turn off charging. I always like to use a stable power source like a power supply or low current battery charger for the initial balance.. hope this helps.
I got a 6020D 60v 20A charger (Wanptek High Power Laboratory stabilized power supply) and set it to 55.2v at 700ma charge (this is after I have charged it as high as it can go) then let it go for a day or soo(with balancer running..) The current is so low that the bms does not shut down and you can creep up on the 55.2v when all the battery curves converge on each others and you have no runners..you may have to tweak that current if you have a very fast runner battery a little..(ie lower current even more)
That one is a 150a... since I have 2 batteries in parallel, I should never see even close to that, so why not keep it low... once I add another battery, I'll probably change to a 100 or 125a.
50mm² is suitable for 100A only!! Please be AWARE! The breaker specification is too high! The BMS can handle 200A The wiring can't. Weakest link will not be the fail safety, the breaker, the wiring is! PLEASE change the internal wiring to at least 70mm² if you handle huge loads, like charging an EZ.
What's the purpose of top balancing? is it just to make the batteries last longer? Sorry I'm new to this and trying to learn. I plan on buying this DIY kit to put together and install in an RV, but right now I'm trying to learn all this terminology.
Yes. Since the battery is made up of 16 individual cells.. you want to be sure that the cells are in sync, so they charge and discharge together as a pack... this will ensure that no single cell is being worked harder than the rest.. if the cells get too much out of sync, the bms will shut down the battery to protect the cells... although rare.. it can happen.
Hello and congratulations again for your great video I had a question: can the JK-PB2A16S20P communicate easily with a victron multiplus II 5000VA? what equipment do you need special cable in addition? I'm trying to find out about the bms because as I have a large 24 volt 1300AH battery pack I would like it to work perfectly before investing in the BMS and the victron multiplus II! laurent
Hi. Unfortunately, I have not tried this myself, so I can not say. However, I have seen other videos where it was done via the venous os. Take a look at Andy's off grid garage . He has done a lot of work in this area and has a very nice website with all the cables and converters required. Thanks for watching. off-grid-garage.com/bms-communication/
@@natesdiysolar what do you think of the luyuan box? I got ons of them, for the better dc breaker. Still did not get it home. I doubt what to get for my second pack... already have 16x mb31 in shipment now for the 2nd pack, and new jk 200a bms.
At this point, it's hard to say.. it really comes down to what features are important to you.. they both have their pros and cons . I really need to make a video about this... but here is the nut shell. If. You don't care about fancy display and are more concerned with accurate soc readings, and you need good comms support.. I think the seplos is the choice.. but make sure you get the v3 with 1 or 2a balancer.. I can't remember.. the v1 and v2 are maintenance balancers only.. just 150 mv and is painfully slow... if you want ease of use and don't need comms and plan on using a shunt to get soc, then jk is fine.. seplos has a bit larger of a learning curve with its software, but once you get used to it, the pc software is pretty good. Jk would probably be a clear winner if it had accurate Soc reading and better comms support. But seplos.. although crude.. is pretty damn solid.. unfortunately, I have not tested comms on either one, so I'm only repeating what I have heard or read.. check out Andy from off grid garage as he has delved into the comms much more than I at this point. My biggest issue was the small balancer (v1 and v2 only) and lack of info on the front panel screen. I don't use comms, so that not much of a concern for me.. I hope that's not about as clear as mud, lol. Andy has a comparison document on his website outlining the features of both.. Will they both protect the battery.. yes.. Comms, balancer, ease of use, accurate soc and current readinds..
Recently got a quote for $578 shipping included within a week. A bit high compared to other similar boxes on Alibaba. US located stock it seems and only white boxes. Nate's deal was ignored. $488 including shipping + taxes on Alibaba and 60 days delivery.
@@hechmi Hello, my friend, if you need a discount, you need to contact us and we will make an order link for you to get a discount. If you pay directly in the order, there is no discount. Thank you for your support.
You’re not supposed to draw more than %80 from a circuit, so a 20A 120V outlet is 2,400 watts, don’t draw more than 1,920 watts due to breaker heating, if you don’t want to be tripping the breaker…
Thanks. I just miscalculated. The Inverter only allows 10a increments only. It's temporary. I need to run a proper 50a circuit. I just haven't done it.. I leave it unplugged otherwise.
It should not balance at such low voltage... 3.35v and balancing..why?? it's impossible to balance at such low voltage. because there may be all the cells at the same voltage - aka balanced but in reality they are NOT balanced because we balance the CAPACITY not voltage, so at such low voltage impossible to balance because it's FAR from fully charged. If this is just for 1 time only because of 200mv diff -then ok, but for later use -balancing should start at 3.41 and higher.
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
Great job with your explanations as always. Great job!
Glad you could make sense of my rambling lol..
My inverters don't float at all for Li batteries. When the BMS reports 100% the charge cycle is over. Had to play with the balancing a little to get something that worked but my cells never deviated more than .030 at the beginning. After about 8 or 10 cycles the cells were better conditioned and by the time I get to the top they are pretty close, less than .010 and below .005 within a few minutes. That's been happening with three batteries at the same time and I'm getting ready to add six more of them. I'm considering switching one of my converters to Lead Acid profile so I can get some absorption and float voltage on the bus from at least one charging source. I don't know, see how it goes from here.....
I'm pretty pleased with the JK's. My packs are pretty much charged to 100% everyday or very close so SOC isn't much of a deal right now. Andy at Off Grid mentioned in his last video that they may be coming up with a better solution for the SOC. Guess maybe there's a 15.34 rev for the Fireware coming? hahaha
Good to know. Thanks for the info. Good job with the batteries. :) 😀
Don't know that I can claim much credit for the cells. Every pack I've put together were all setting at 3.27 @ .001 difference. Nice starting point.
@beebop9808 yes at maximum there could be up to as much as 4ah difference between the cells and that won't shake out until you get near the top of the charge curve. They come shipped with about 66ah in them plus minus 4ah.. 3.27 is in the bulk or flat area of charge curve... it's not a bad idea to do a natural balance by placing the cells in parallel for 24hrs before building. I don't have the nuts to put 16 in parallel thoughtv lol. Ill do 2 sets of 8.. I did a video where I cycled 32 cells and hand matched them to build a pack with only 1.5ah deviation. Watch the delta under high charge current the more change you see in the delta is a indicator of how well or not well your pack is matched..
This is probably a really basic question, but if you have a good inverter like the EG4 18k or a Solark connected to the battery and have the time to wait, would the balancer work itself out over time to equalize the charge on the batteries? I get that initially you would be losing capacity while the batteries are not evenly charged, but would the JK BMS built in balancer do it's job if you just hooked it up and let it do its thing over multiple days?
It may or may not.. it really depends on your charge settings and if they are meeting the requirements set in he BMS to trigger balancing.. if balancing is never triggered, it will never get done.. unless you are charging from the grid, it may be difficult to get a low enough current for a long enough time to get a proper top balance.. so, in theory, it should work, but I would not recommend it. If it keeps hitting ovp, the BMS will just turn off charging. I always like to use a stable power source like a power supply or low current battery charger for the initial balance.. hope this helps.
I got a 6020D 60v 20A charger (Wanptek High Power Laboratory stabilized power supply) and set it to 55.2v at 700ma charge (this is after I have charged it as high as it can go) then let it go for a day or soo(with balancer running..)
The current is so low that the bms does not shut down and you can creep up on the 55.2v when all the battery curves converge on each others and you have no runners..you may have to tweak that current if you have a very fast runner battery a little..(ie lower current even more)
Good to know. I'll be using that method on my next build.
What amp fuse are you using?
Just noticed the marine fuse on the Pos. stud.
That one is a 150a... since I have 2 batteries in parallel, I should never see even close to that, so why not keep it low... once I add another battery, I'll probably change to a 100 or 125a.
What size wire does your box have from BMS to breaker? You can read it from the lug.
It's SC50-6 or 1/0.
50mm² is suitable for 100A only!! Please be AWARE!
The breaker specification is too high!
The BMS can handle 200A
The wiring can't.
Weakest link will not be the fail safety, the breaker, the wiring is!
PLEASE change the internal wiring to at least 70mm² if you handle huge loads, like charging an EZ.
@@MMMM2MMMM2MMMM thanks for the input. Perhaps some testing is in order...
Good video Nate. But how did you order those castors. I cannot find any way to do it via Alibaba
Find Becky's contact information below in the description. You can ask her about the casters.
What's the purpose of top balancing? is it just to make the batteries last longer? Sorry I'm new to this and trying to learn. I plan on buying this DIY kit to put together and install in an RV, but right now I'm trying to learn all this terminology.
Yes. Since the battery is made up of 16 individual cells.. you want to be sure that the cells are in sync, so they charge and discharge together as a pack... this will ensure that no single cell is being worked harder than the rest.. if the cells get too much out of sync, the bms will shut down the battery to protect the cells... although rare.. it can happen.
Where can I purchase this white battery box in USA??????
See other comment
Hello and congratulations again for your great video
I had a question: can the JK-PB2A16S20P
communicate easily with a victron multiplus II 5000VA? what equipment do you need special cable in addition?
I'm trying to find out about the bms because as I have a large 24 volt 1300AH battery pack I would like it to work perfectly before investing in the BMS and the victron multiplus II!
laurent
Hi. Unfortunately, I have not tried this myself, so I can not say. However, I have seen other videos where it was done via the venous os. Take a look at Andy's off grid garage . He has done a lot of work in this area and has a very nice website with all the cables and converters required. Thanks for watching.
off-grid-garage.com/bms-communication/
thank!
Did you compare the yixiang box and the luyuan box? 😊
I did not
@@natesdiysolar what do you think of the luyuan box? I got ons of them, for the better dc breaker. Still did not get it home. I doubt what to get for my second pack... already have 16x mb31 in shipment now for the 2nd pack, and new jk 200a bms.
@@PhilippeCJR I have not heard of that box.. do you have a link..
@@natesdiysolar I can only inform to check al i baba, en find for luyuan diy. here you can find it
In your opinion witch BMS is better... the Seplos or the JK please ?
At this point, it's hard to say.. it really comes down to what features are important to you.. they both have their pros and cons . I really need to make a video about this... but here is the nut shell. If. You don't care about fancy display and are more concerned with accurate soc readings, and you need good comms support.. I think the seplos is the choice.. but make sure you get the v3 with 1 or 2a balancer.. I can't remember.. the v1 and v2 are maintenance balancers only.. just 150 mv and is painfully slow... if you want ease of use and don't need comms and plan on using a shunt to get soc, then jk is fine.. seplos has a bit larger of a learning curve with its software, but once you get used to it, the pc software is pretty good. Jk would probably be a clear winner if it had accurate Soc reading and better comms support. But seplos.. although crude.. is pretty damn solid.. unfortunately, I have not tested comms on either one, so I'm only repeating what I have heard or read.. check out Andy from off grid garage as he has delved into the comms much more than I at this point. My biggest issue was the small balancer (v1 and v2 only) and lack of info on the front panel screen. I don't use comms, so that not much of a concern for me.. I hope that's not about as clear as mud, lol.
Andy has a comparison document on his website outlining the features of both.. Will they both protect the battery.. yes..
Comms, balancer, ease of use, accurate soc and current readinds..
@@natesdiysolar Thanks a lot for the answer... I think I'll go for Seplos v3 with load-balancer.
Is Alibaba stocking these in the US or another company? How do I order this from the US? Thank you and great videos on these
I'll ask Becky to reply..
Recently got a quote for $578 shipping included within a week. A bit high compared to other similar boxes on Alibaba. US located stock it seems and only white boxes. Nate's deal was ignored. $488 including shipping + taxes on Alibaba and 60 days delivery.
@hechmi yikes that is high..
@@hechmi Hello, my friend, if you need a discount, you need to contact us and we will make an order link for you to get a discount. If you pay directly in the order, there is no discount. Thank you for your support.
You’re not supposed to draw more than %80 from a circuit, so a 20A 120V outlet is 2,400 watts, don’t draw more than 1,920 watts due to breaker heating, if you don’t want to be tripping the breaker…
Thanks. I just miscalculated. The Inverter only allows 10a increments only. It's temporary. I need to run a proper 50a circuit. I just haven't done it.. I leave it unplugged otherwise.
and the alarm?
The alarm is from the password not being set. It's gone now.
Any news on the new YIXIANG V2 box getting delivered for you to test? Thanks.
Yes. Hopefully, it will be late October, so I won't have it until December at the latest..
No plug for active balancer
Wee balancing. 🎉
15.30 is out ;)
V15.32 is too.....
It should not balance at such low voltage... 3.35v and balancing..why?? it's impossible to balance at such low voltage. because there may be all the cells at the same voltage - aka balanced but in reality they are NOT balanced because we balance the CAPACITY not voltage, so at such low voltage impossible to balance because it's FAR from fully charged. If this is just for 1 time only because of 200mv diff -then ok, but for later use -balancing should start at 3.41 and higher.
Yes, 3.40 is trigger.. 200mv initial. Plus deviation. We don't run balancer below 3.40v. There are 2 factors at play. Delta and / or cell voltage.