My poor FrogBro!! So these meters, although convenient, have a 60V limit! When using it, be mindful of this as I was only thinking in terms of Watts! I think it's kind of silly to have a meter that can read 800W but have such a low VOC limit. You would have to connect the panels in parallel to test them. If it's made for single panels, I would like to see an 800W panel.. I would buy it in a second! I should have made a "will it fail" segment because it definitely failed.. or my brain did... Enjoy! For Solar Panels (affiliate link): www.santansolar.com/product-category/solar-panels/?ref=84967534 P.S. I had to remove the links to the solar panel angle tool and inclinometer app as YT did not like them.... My poor FrogBro!! So these meters, although convenient, have a 60V limit! When using it, be mindful of this as I was only thinking in terms of Watts! I think it's kind of silly to have a meter that can read 800W but have such a low VOC limit. You would have to connect the panels in parallel to test them. If it's made for single panels, I would like to see an 800W panel.. I would buy it in a second! I should have made a "will it fail" segment because it definitely failed.. or my brain did... Enjoy! For Solar Panels (affiliate link): www.santansolar.com/product-category/solar-panels/?ref=84967534 P.S. I had to remove the links to the solar panel angle tool and inclinometer app as YT did not like them.... 06-15 Upfate: @12:33 I mention the Amps at Pmax (meter) was higher than the value on the sticker. I don't think this is accurate as this value should never exceed the short cuircuut current (isc) value as volts would be zero at short circuit. It's best to press the auto or press the manual button several times to get a good reading.. credit: larrywong7843
Seems you got your comment double-posted, but RUclips censorship is getting stupider by the day, removing legit things (both links and comments) while allowing the scam and spam to run free. You forgot to mention the biggest advantage of the clamp-meter: you don't have to unplug the whole thing to run your amp-meter in series with the circuit! When it comes to your FrogBro, I am more than a little bit surprised that such an expensive tool doesn't have overvoltage protection, especially so when the Voltage(max) is as low as 60. Quite happy you kept it in the video though, as it is VERY easy to make a small mistake which then have serious consequences. Volts should be zero at short circuit? Ohm's law says that it's the resistance that gets close to zero, as I = U/R. Am I missing something here that is specific to solar panels?
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I just bought the 1600W version on Amazon. The Frogbro is apparently being sold under about a dozen equally creative brand names, with no effort to hide the fact that they're all the same, right down to the model number. The cheapest 1600W was ~$75. The "Frogbro" was ~$105.
Nate - way to be honest about your meter! Most would just "edit" it out. We're up in Reno preparing to set up off grid north of Reno-Sparks...Be Blessed and Safe!!
We all make mistakes.. DIY, we all hopefully learn from each other:) love Reno. It's been a while since iv been there. Looking for an off grid property myself. How are prices up there..
This panel can put out close to 100 watts ruclips.net/user/postUgkxOqI2yqX0XVrhR2BMJciTWrHJpG8FhJyg when positioned in the appropriate southernly direction, tilted to the optimal angle for your latitude/date, and connected to a higher capacity device than a 500. The built in kickstand angle is a fixed at 50 degrees. Up to 20% more power can be output by selecting the actual date and latitude optimal angle.The 500 will only input 3.5A maximum at 18 volts for 63 watts. Some of the excess power from the panel can be fed into a USB battery bank, charged directly from the panel while also charging a 500. This will allow you to harvest as much as 63 + 15 = 78 watts.If this panel is used to charge a larger device, such as the power station, then its full output potential can be realized.
Very informative testing video. For over one hundred dollars that Frogbro meter should be able to handle more than 60 volts or at least be fused. Thank you for saving me from buying and making the the same mistake. I'll use my clamp meter.
Nate, I appreciate the content. I like to tinker myself. I ordered a buck converter due to another video of yours for some experiments. Thanks. Cool stuff.
I said oh crap twice while watching your the video. Once when the meter expired and then once again when you mentioned the price! I’m currently researching test equipment for PV and battery power measurement and have these two items on order. Solar Panel tester (60V/35A max) UNI-T UT673PV costs less than $40 shipped. DC Clamp Meter (2/20/200A) UNI-T UT210A costs $20 shipped. You might have to time your purchases to get the best discounts. From everyone’s favorite, ExpressAli. I have purchased UNI-T before and the quality is pretty good.
198W/250W=79% efficient. 293W/335W=87% efficient. The conversion of solar to electricity is 80-90% efficient and your tests prove it. In other words, a typical 100W panel will produce 80-90 watts, not 100. When calculating the number of panels required for a system, the efficiencies (or if preferred, the inefficiencies) need to be calculated for. “High noon” may not be the most accurate descriptor. Test panels when the amount of atmosphere the photons travel through is the least. That’s when the sun is at its highest point directly above the panels (and accounting for angle.) Typically, depending on time zone, that should be between 12:00 pm and 1:00 pm. Lesson learned about test equipment maximum ratings. Welcome to the club! Better a tester overloaded than a charge controller or wiring in a house.
Good video! I live west of the Phoenix metro, so I can easily drive to San Tan Solar to pick up used panels. For me, they work great. Obviously, the solar multimeter must have some sort of load resistance that can take a lot of current for a very short time. Any idea what is the standard load resistance for testing panels?
Glad I was of some use :) these kinds comments keep me going lol. I will be doing a simple but complete solar system build for beginners next. I kind of started with mode advanced videos and now I am working backwards! thanks for watching!
The new panel was cold ie not sitting in the sun , cos soon as I heat up they lose efficiency Is that why it was a bit more! Cos I doubt whether a solar panel would degrade that much in 9 months By the way , read the short circuit current with a clamp meter is the best way to test solar panels, leave it shortened then you get the flir out and look for heat spots on the panel
Hey Nate!!! Thanks for sharing your knowledge through these amazing videos, very helpful!!! I loved the way you explain everything. I would like to ask you a question. I bought a 300w solar panel and want to get the efficiency. My voltmeter is 10amps and the panel label says that the maximum current is 18amps. Should I buy another multimeter? you can help me?
Yea that meter will not be able to test that panel. The amps are to high on your panel. It will blow the internal fuse or damage your meter. I would suggest getting one of the meters I mention in the video. Either one would work. I think the cheap one even does 20A max.
8:56 and 10:59. I was checking mine with a klein cl390. On the display, it shows a - in front of the voltage reading and the amperage reading. Mine showed the same when checking the panels. But when checking the battery side, it does not appear. I thought I had the polarity reversed coming from the panels to the charge controller. Found this video searching for answers. Thanks. At least i know im ok.
Hi great show You will more than probably have a new meter tester by now! but why aren't they also fused for protection just like all electrical equipment
Panel Sticker Label volt max value are not UNDER load. Thus AY800 which have built-in mppt(thus a load) displays lower volts. Not sure if thats true. BTW for my Renogy 450w panels my AY800 has displayed 516watts. 526watts. Tho mostly its typically under 450w when using the AY800. The 500's+ watts AY800 tends to occur when a huge sun burst occurs thru clouds openings. Like on the day after rains..
What you're seeing when you get the 500+ Watt readings is either cloud edge effect or cloud lensing. Edge effect: ruclips.net/video/i5fM8TE1INQ/видео.html Lensing: scijinks.gov/solar-energy-and-clouds/
Multimeter current inputs are fused. (the word fused is printed right next to the meter's current socket) So connecting a panel that supplies more current than the meter is rated for will simply pop the fuse as opposed to destroying the meter.
Hi Nate. Really appreciate your video. I don’t have much in solar panels but this interests me. My question is that when you connected the solar panel tester when they were combined, could you have connected your CL800 probes to get the total volts? Connecting the combined 3 black cables to the clamp meter COM port and the single red to the red probe? Looks like the clamp meter has a 600Volt max… Also, could you have sort circuited the panels at that same time to get the amps? Or maybe I’m confused…
Yes, I could have used the clamp meter to get volts, but it would be an open circuit voltage. I was trying to get a power reading which requires a load.. hence the solar panel meter. You would not want to short circuit multiple panels in parallel as it could damage the panel.
Clamp meter, I was my understanding that to get a correct reading the wire must be centered inside the clamp, not just let the wire hang to the side like you are showing.
Thank you sooo much for this video!!! And just in time too as I'm putting in a solar system this spring/summer & the info/link for the solar panel multimeter & guidance to use a solar angle app is awesome!! 👍👍 Thank you!!!
Hello, i recently bought two identical panels. One is outputting 17v under low sun, the second one only 6 volts. (no load attached). When testing under full sun they output both 24v. Does that means that the low outputting voltage one is damaged?
It could be if you tested them under the same conditions. Do a short circuit test on each panel individually see how many amps are produced. Compare that number with the ISC value on the sticker .
@@natesdiysolar thanks, I was afraid to shorten them thus maybe destroying some cells. I have sent the pannel back. I wait for refund and order a new one. When the new comes I will connect them to two loads and see hownthey perform. Thanks for your fast response 😊
You can if you want but the tester of only drawing power during the test. Very little at idel. Single Panel. String of panels you could but with a max of 60v you are probably ok there as well. In all my testing I have not seen any arcing. But if you are testing a large system yes I would turn down any loads so there is no active draw.
I have the same solar panel meter. It says mmpt watt is 330W. But the mppt is only producing 200W. It is high noon. How do I figure out the issue? Do you know of a mppt meter with recording eg on an SD card?
What is the wattage of the panel you are testing.. I do not know of a device that will log historic data. A high-end solar panel meter probably, but they cost hundreds. I'm confused about your question.. so your meter reads 330w but when you connect panel to your charge controller it says 200w? Is that correct..
I use solarCT and Solar Tilt Andriod apps daily tilt / orientation calibrations. down side is those testers under 60v and lots of higher voltage panels out their , what has got me is I have seen others with these and theirs lists a high voltage warning and does not do any tests
Hi, I have an issue with a 340W ( Vmp 32 V, Imp 10A, Voc 40V, Isc 10A.6) mono solar panel I recently bought. The voltage reading without load is fine, but without load I can never get more than 1.8A. As soon as it's connected to my microinverter or my off-grid inverter, the current goes down to 0.1/0.3 A and it never makes more than 11W. No shade, no visible damage, nothing. I already change the MC4 connectors, check voltage continuity in the cables, changes cable, tested the bypass diodes, temporary replaced the bypass diodes, and still nothing. Always the same 5-11W power production. What could it be? I run out of ideas..... Thanks!!
Have you tried shorting the Mc4 connectors together and testing with a clamp meter. Sounds like you tried everything... even the diodes. Other than what I just suggested, idk. Sounds like a dead panel. Iv never had a dead panel, but try the iSC test and see what that yields. Post your question on the diy solar forum on fb or the one will prowse runs. Keep me posted . I'm curious
@PepeGaka if it's just one panel, it's ok. That's how you test them. See in video. That's why they have an ISC rating .you will need a clamp meter . Or just probe the ends with a probe meter if you don't want to short them.
@@natesdiysolar Thanks, I didn't know that. I don't have a clamp meter, unfortunately. I tried to test the current with the multimeter, and could never get more than 1.8A reading, without load. Way far from the 10 A I should get, in full sun. I'll see if I can get my hands on a clamp meter and try again. Thanks!
Are you saying that a multimeter CANNOT measure how well the solar panel is working? (i.e., it can only measure whether it is working or not?). I ask because I'm looking to purchase some used panels so I'm very interested in understanding exactly how well the panel is working so I know if the use panel is worth the price. But then again I don't currently own a multimeter....and it seems like a clamp style multimeter is an essential tool if you need to do electrical work....so I'm trying to understand if I need to purchase the solar panel "multi-meter" AND the clamp style multimeter for other general purpose electrical work.
The clamp meter can accurately measure the current produced by the panel. Current can be used as a good indicator of the condition of the panel. If you want to know in terms of watts, it just would be as accurate as a mppt solar tester cause the measurement needs to be under load, not voc. So I would just get a multimeter as you will make more use of that. Later on, you can decide if you want a solar panel meter. Just compare the voc and isc values using the clamp meter as I show in the video. Good luck!
@@natesdiysolar Nate, thanks for quick response and sage advice! Now I just need to decide if I want the Klein CL800 (600amp) or the Klein CL390 (400amp). If you have any thoughts on that let me know.
@Jetter638 well whenever I'm faced with this dilemma it's always best to go overkill because when you don't have what you need... you don't have what you need.. cyber Mondays tomorrow probably can get it for a good deal if you look around :) however.. you probably will never see more than 200A in a solar system..
I have a panel that when shorted to test short circuit current I get a negative current which equals what the panel is rated. It this a sign of a bad bypass diode. By the way great video.
When you say negative, are you sure you aren't seeing the DC current symbol.. I doubt It's the diode. Flip your meter from AC to DC. Notice the symbols changes.. lmk
at 6.38 time you were under the panels .and testing the string under load,, it said - 22.16 why did it have the minis? - before the ##?? ive never seen this,, great vid by the way
I assume you mean 16.36 while reading the amps... that was not a minus sign it was the symbol for DC current. My meter reads both AC and DC current. It was in the DC mode.. you can see this if u fwd to 8.30. Additionally if I were reading DC volts and I had the Probes reverse it would show a minus sign since DC current has polarity or direction where as AC does not.. it moves back n forth .. hence Alternating Current VS. Direct Current.
For sure. That's where my panels normally sit as I don't have much room. They get sun later in day as they are west facing. This is not where I tested them, however.
@@natesdiysolar I can see in the video, that you tested panels a little bit to the left and facing south. Make sense to have another western string. i think that shade would disapear if you lift them more, also you would have some more storage space under them. But i think you have more solar power than you need even now.
@rm6857 it would . Just been lazy. These will go on the roof eventually. As it is I'm over producing. I have a large garden that takes up my entire yard
I'm curious because I was told never have the panels out in the S u n Disconnected because of the electrons does not have anywhere to go and you will burn out your panel.
Hmm.. I'd NEVER the word PERFECT, even if it is for panel angle. I'm stunned anyone would say crawling under a live panel is just ridiculous. WOW..! That's going too far. People do it all the time. It's very safe as long as they aren't sticking metal tools into both leads and holding onto them. Nate, Nate, Nate..! then you go and blow up your tester live. I guess your SHTF that day. Hope your day went better after you made this video.
Lol yea well I have to say stuff like that else the OSHA trolls will chime in.. I'm sure people do it all the time... you just can't win.. yes, it's very ironic... all in the name of "science" lol..
I short circuited my inverter when turned it of from the mines when i had the pv circuit breaker on. i forgot to turn it off, and i did not have the AC CIRCUIT BREAKER GOING INTO THE INVESTOR IT DARK AND I WAS TIRED ALWAYS HAVE THE AC DC CIRCUIT BREAKERS. OR ALL THE WIRES GOING INTO INVERTER.
@@natesdiysolar I think its easy to test. Those probes have kind of sharp tips, so high resistance, after measuring check mc4 visually inside for black marks :)
@@wizardmagu he means when measuring amps using the probes in the connectors. 2 different ways to measure amps. Short circuit with clamp or probed set to amps on meter
It’s surprising that it doesn’t have overvoltage protection, where you would only have to replace a fuse I know some of the more high solar panel meters have over voltage protection
Off Topic. Do you have a video on NCM Lithium Battery safety. Odds for Fires or worst. How to up the safety protection level for them. I do have a Solar Storage Battery made of NCM Lithium. Its Obvious to me of recient that peoples new getting into Solar must have a command of this subject matter. Mess Up doing a reading with the AY800 is a Nasty. But Mess Up without enough knowledge of NCM LITHIUM Batteries, Lithium Ion Batteries can be extremely Costly.
I do not, but I'm sure someone does.. thanks for watching! I saw a video by a fire department a while back.. testing over charging different battery chemistries.. L ion did catch fire.
Last week I was measuring 3 Renogy 450w panels with my AY800. HaHa. Lightening strikes twice in a week. Their new high watts unit is also 60v. Thats the Chinese for you. Made in China.
@Larry Wong my meter, showed similar results.. The only thing I can think of is that the meter is just not very accurate. I just put a clamp meter on while testing using the AY800, and it did not even register above 1A .. yea. It should not exceed the rated isc.. even at zero volts. You're correct. I was wrong to say that. I took the meter reading at face value, lol. I noticed if you take mutiple readings it will get it right lol.. A@pMax less than ISC.
@@natesdiysolar I like to press the AY continuous button. Which can take as much as 20 seconds to do a calculation of those various readings. Interesting that readings for just one panel happens after few seconds. When waiting for 3 panels AY reading results( all newpowa 220w's panels in Serial array) it can take 20 seconds. Thus the AY meter's mppt has lots calculations to do with 3 panel array. With the continous button(one press) I just wait for more optimal results to show itself before I data log them.
Isn't that a criminal offence in the US? Here in Europe, the least of consequences for such behaviour is getting the product pulled from the entire market if any of the countries' electricity agency find out about it and per default sends it to the others.
I find it insane most dead panels end up in a landfill.. the cost to recylce gains less then 5 bucks. eco friendly they are not..what idiot created panels that arent recyclable, or a system in place.
My poor FrogBro!! So these meters, although convenient, have a 60V limit! When using it, be mindful of this as I was only thinking in terms of Watts!
I think it's kind of silly to have a meter that can read 800W but have such a low VOC limit. You would have to connect the panels in parallel to test them. If it's made for single panels, I would like to see an 800W panel.. I would buy it in a second!
I should have made a "will it fail" segment because it definitely failed.. or my brain did...
Enjoy!
For Solar Panels (affiliate link):
www.santansolar.com/product-category/solar-panels/?ref=84967534
P.S. I had to remove the links to the solar panel angle tool and inclinometer app as YT did not like them....
My poor FrogBro!! So these meters, although convenient, have a 60V limit! When using it, be mindful of this as I was only thinking in terms of Watts!
I think it's kind of silly to have a meter that can read 800W but have such a low VOC limit. You would have to connect the panels in parallel to test them. If it's made for single panels, I would like to see an 800W panel.. I would buy it in a second!
I should have made a "will it fail" segment because it definitely failed.. or my brain did...
Enjoy!
For Solar Panels (affiliate link):
www.santansolar.com/product-category/solar-panels/?ref=84967534
P.S. I had to remove the links to the solar panel angle tool and inclinometer app as YT did not like them....
06-15 Upfate: @12:33 I mention the Amps at Pmax (meter) was higher than the value on the sticker. I don't think this is accurate as this value should never exceed the short cuircuut current (isc) value as volts would be zero at short circuit. It's best to press the auto or press the manual button several times to get a good reading.. credit: larrywong7843
Seems you got your comment double-posted, but RUclips censorship is getting stupider by the day, removing legit things (both links and comments) while allowing the scam and spam to run free.
You forgot to mention the biggest advantage of the clamp-meter: you don't have to unplug the whole thing to run your amp-meter in series with the circuit!
When it comes to your FrogBro, I am more than a little bit surprised that such an expensive tool doesn't have overvoltage protection, especially so when the Voltage(max) is as low as 60. Quite happy you kept it in the video though, as it is VERY easy to make a small mistake which then have serious consequences.
Volts should be zero at short circuit? Ohm's law says that it's the resistance that gets close to zero, as I = U/R. Am I missing something here that is specific to solar panels?
I just bought the 1600W version on Amazon. The Frogbro is apparently being sold under about a dozen equally creative brand names, with no effort to hide the fact that they're all the same, right down to the model number. The cheapest 1600W was ~$75. The "Frogbro" was ~$105.
Yea, they are all the same.. the prices are always changing. 😞
I love it when somebody screws up and they tell us why and shows us why it happened. Great explanations all round!
Nate - way to be honest about your meter! Most would just "edit" it out. We're up in Reno preparing to set up off grid north of Reno-Sparks...Be Blessed and Safe!!
We all make mistakes.. DIY, we all hopefully learn from each other:) love Reno. It's been a while since iv been there. Looking for an off grid property myself. How are prices up there..
This panel can put out close to 100 watts ruclips.net/user/postUgkxOqI2yqX0XVrhR2BMJciTWrHJpG8FhJyg when positioned in the appropriate southernly direction, tilted to the optimal angle for your latitude/date, and connected to a higher capacity device than a 500. The built in kickstand angle is a fixed at 50 degrees. Up to 20% more power can be output by selecting the actual date and latitude optimal angle.The 500 will only input 3.5A maximum at 18 volts for 63 watts. Some of the excess power from the panel can be fed into a USB battery bank, charged directly from the panel while also charging a 500. This will allow you to harvest as much as 63 + 15 = 78 watts.If this panel is used to charge a larger device, such as the power station, then its full output potential can be realized.
Wow that's pretty good
Very informative testing video. For over one hundred dollars that Frogbro meter should be able to handle more than 60 volts or at least be fused. Thank you for saving me from buying and making the the same mistake. I'll use my clamp meter.
Nate, I appreciate the content. I like to tinker myself. I ordered a buck converter due to another video of yours for some experiments. Thanks. Cool stuff.
Awsome. Glad to hear. Lmk how it goes.
I said oh crap twice while watching your the video.
Once when the meter expired and then once again when you mentioned the price!
I’m currently researching test equipment for PV and battery power measurement and have these two items on order.
Solar Panel tester (60V/35A max)
UNI-T UT673PV costs less than $40 shipped.
DC Clamp Meter (2/20/200A)
UNI-T UT210A costs $20 shipped.
You might have to time your purchases to get the best discounts. From everyone’s favorite, ExpressAli.
I have purchased UNI-T before and the quality is pretty good.
Scratch the 210A
It’s AC current only!!!
I’ll update my post above with the correct info when I’m at the PC.
Sorry about the meter the video was super helpful especially the red arrows thanks again
Love them red arrows.. thanks for watching!
198W/250W=79% efficient. 293W/335W=87% efficient. The conversion of solar to electricity is 80-90% efficient and your tests prove it. In other words, a typical 100W panel will produce 80-90 watts, not 100. When calculating the number of panels required for a system, the efficiencies (or if preferred, the inefficiencies) need to be calculated for.
“High noon” may not be the most accurate descriptor. Test panels when the amount of atmosphere the photons travel through is the least. That’s when the sun is at its highest point directly above the panels (and accounting for angle.) Typically, depending on time zone, that should be between 12:00 pm and 1:00 pm.
Lesson learned about test equipment maximum ratings. Welcome to the club! Better a tester overloaded than a charge controller or wiring in a house.
Thanks for the info about efficiency. That would have been good info to include in the video.. ill pin in.
@@natesdiysolar great video, thank you. Please also pin this : gml.noaa.gov/grad/solcalc/
19:00 ah pitty you can't see the chip number, looks easily repairable if you can find the part numbers used. looks like a DC to DC board
I know right. I need to get a chip soldering station. On the list.
Good video! I live west of the Phoenix metro, so I can easily drive to San Tan Solar to pick up used panels. For me, they work great. Obviously, the solar multimeter must have some sort of load resistance that can take a lot of current for a very short time. Any idea what is the standard load resistance for testing panels?
Thanks. Yea, that's nice you are local. It's about a 3-hour trip for me. I'm not sure about load resistance...
@@natesdiysolar , Thanks for the response!
Thanks for the informative useful video sir.
No problem.
Outstanding work. 😊
Thanks, very informative and useful video.
Strange a 60v meter would cost so much. Many inexpensive charge controllers have up to a 100v or even 150v limit. Thanks for the testing.
Thank you for your videos. New to this technology and am learning through you.
Glad I was of some use :) these kinds comments keep me going lol. I will be doing a simple but complete solar system build for beginners next. I kind of started with mode advanced videos and now I am working backwards! thanks for watching!
What is the distance of your array from your controller and AWG size of your wires?
10AWG. 50 feet. String on the wall is 70 feet. Why do you ask?
The new panel was cold ie not sitting in the sun , cos soon as I heat up they lose efficiency
Is that why it was a bit more!
Cos I doubt whether a solar panel would degrade that much in 9 months
By the way , read the short circuit current with a clamp meter is the best way to test solar panels, leave it shortened then you get the flir out and look for heat spots on the panel
Good tip. Thanks
I will test this and do an update..
Hey Nate!!! Thanks for sharing your knowledge through these amazing videos, very helpful!!! I loved the way you explain everything. I would like to ask you a question. I bought a 300w solar panel and want to get the efficiency. My voltmeter is 10amps and the panel label says that the maximum current is 18amps. Should I buy another multimeter? you can help me?
Yea that meter will not be able to test that panel. The amps are to high on your panel. It will blow the internal fuse or damage your meter. I would suggest getting one of the meters I mention in the video. Either one would work. I think the cheap one even does 20A max.
Well, sorry about your meter! But, the video really did bless me greatly! Thank you and God bless you and yours!!!
Thank you!
8:56 and 10:59. I was checking mine with a klein cl390. On the display, it shows a - in front of the voltage reading and the amperage reading. Mine showed the same when checking the panels. But when checking the battery side, it does not appear. I thought I had the polarity reversed coming from the panels to the charge controller. Found this video searching for answers. Thanks. At least i know im ok.
Glad it was helpfull.
Hi great show You will more than probably have a new meter tester by now! but why aren't they also fused for protection just like all electrical equipment
Cause it's cheap electronics from China :)
Panel Sticker Label volt max value are not UNDER load.
Thus AY800 which have built-in mppt(thus a load) displays lower volts.
Not sure if thats true.
BTW for my Renogy 450w panels my AY800 has displayed 516watts. 526watts. Tho mostly its typically under 450w when using the AY800.
The 500's+ watts AY800 tends to occur when a huge sun burst occurs thru clouds openings. Like on the day after rains..
Not sure what you mean volt max.. are you referring to VOC ?
@@natesdiysolar My Renogy 450w label shows a Optimum Operating voltage 34.67v. And VOC 41.25v.
"volt max" was taken from your video presentation
What you're seeing when you get the 500+ Watt readings is either cloud edge effect or cloud lensing.
Edge effect: ruclips.net/video/i5fM8TE1INQ/видео.html
Lensing: scijinks.gov/solar-energy-and-clouds/
Multimeter current inputs are fused. (the word fused is printed right next to the meter's current socket) So connecting a panel that supplies more current than the meter is rated for will simply pop the fuse as opposed to destroying the meter.
Yea, that's true. But I did not damage the multimeter.. I damaged the solar panel meter, which is not fused.
Hi Nate. Really appreciate your video. I don’t have much in solar panels but this interests me. My question is that when you connected the solar panel tester when they were combined, could you have connected your CL800 probes to get the total volts? Connecting the combined 3 black cables to the clamp meter COM port and the single red to the red probe? Looks like the clamp meter has a 600Volt max…
Also, could you have sort circuited the panels at that same time to get the amps? Or maybe I’m confused…
Yes, I could have used the clamp meter to get volts, but it would be an open circuit voltage. I was trying to get a power reading which requires a load.. hence the solar panel meter. You would not want to short circuit multiple panels in parallel as it could damage the panel.
Clamp meter, I was my understanding that to get a correct reading the wire must be centered inside the clamp, not just let the wire hang to the side like you are showing.
Good point. Thanks for the info. Iv seen 1 to 2 amp difference while moving it around inside the clamp.
Depends if a hall sensor or not. Just because it's a "clamp "meter does not mean it has a hall sensor.
Thank you sooo much for this video!!! And just in time too as I'm putting in a solar system this spring/summer & the info/link for the solar panel multimeter & guidance to use a solar angle app is awesome!! 👍👍 Thank you!!!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
Hello, i recently bought two identical panels. One is outputting 17v under low sun, the second one only 6 volts. (no load attached). When testing under full sun they output both 24v. Does that means that the low outputting voltage one is damaged?
It could be if you tested them under the same conditions. Do a short circuit test on each panel individually see how many amps are produced. Compare that number with the ISC value on the sticker .
@@natesdiysolar thanks, I was afraid to shorten them thus maybe destroying some cells. I have sent the pannel back. I wait for refund and order a new one. When the new comes I will connect them to two loads and see hownthey perform. Thanks for your fast response 😊
When disconnecting the tester from the panel, should the panel be blocked from light to prevent arcing at the connectors...?
You can if you want but the tester of only drawing power during the test. Very little at idel. Single Panel. String of panels you could but with a max of 60v you are probably ok there as well. In all my testing I have not seen any arcing. But if you are testing a large system yes I would turn down any loads so there is no active draw.
I have the same solar panel meter. It says mmpt watt is 330W. But the mppt is only producing 200W. It is high noon. How do I figure out the issue?
Do you know of a mppt meter with recording eg on an SD card?
What is the wattage of the panel you are testing.. I do not know of a device that will log historic data. A high-end solar panel meter probably, but they cost hundreds. I'm confused about your question.. so your meter reads 330w but when you connect panel to your charge controller it says 200w? Is that correct..
I use solarCT and Solar Tilt Andriod apps daily tilt / orientation calibrations. down side is those testers under 60v and lots of higher voltage panels out their , what has got me is I have seen others with these and theirs lists a high voltage warning and does not do any tests
Yea, that's the worst thing is the low voc. The 1600w version even is 60v, lol
Thanks for the nice demonstration....
Hi, I have an issue with a 340W ( Vmp 32 V, Imp 10A, Voc 40V, Isc 10A.6) mono solar panel I recently bought. The voltage reading without load is fine, but without load I can never get more than 1.8A. As soon as it's connected to my microinverter or my off-grid inverter, the current goes down to 0.1/0.3 A and it never makes more than 11W. No shade, no visible damage, nothing. I already change the MC4 connectors, check voltage continuity in the cables, changes cable, tested the bypass diodes, temporary replaced the bypass diodes, and still nothing. Always the same 5-11W power production.
What could it be? I run out of ideas.....
Thanks!!
Have you tried shorting the Mc4 connectors together and testing with a clamp meter. Sounds like you tried everything... even the diodes. Other than what I just suggested, idk. Sounds like a dead panel. Iv never had a dead panel, but try the iSC test and see what that yields. Post your question on the diy solar forum on fb or the one will prowse runs. Keep me posted . I'm curious
@@natesdiysolar Wouldn't it be dangerous shorting the mc4 connectors under the sun? Just asking. Thanks!!
@PepeGaka if it's just one panel, it's ok. That's how you test them. See in video. That's why they have an ISC rating .you will need a clamp meter . Or just probe the ends with a probe meter if you don't want to short them.
@@natesdiysolar Thanks, I didn't know that. I don't have a clamp meter, unfortunately. I tried to test the current with the multimeter, and could never get more than 1.8A reading, without load. Way far from the 10 A I should get, in full sun. I'll see if I can get my hands on a clamp meter and try again. Thanks!
@PepeGaka typo. Use either meter. Clamp or probe. Yea, it sounds like it's dead.
Are you saying that a multimeter CANNOT measure how well the solar panel is working? (i.e., it can only measure whether it is working or not?). I ask because I'm looking to purchase some used panels so I'm very interested in understanding exactly how well the panel is working so I know if the use panel is worth the price. But then again I don't currently own a multimeter....and it seems like a clamp style multimeter is an essential tool if you need to do electrical work....so I'm trying to understand if I need to purchase the solar panel "multi-meter" AND the clamp style multimeter for other general purpose electrical work.
The clamp meter can accurately measure the current produced by the panel. Current can be used as a good indicator of the condition of the panel. If you want to know in terms of watts, it just would be as accurate as a mppt solar tester cause the measurement needs to be under load, not voc. So I would just get a multimeter as you will make more use of that. Later on, you can decide if you want a solar panel meter. Just compare the voc and isc values using the clamp meter as I show in the video. Good luck!
@@natesdiysolar Nate, thanks for quick response and sage advice! Now I just need to decide if I want the Klein CL800 (600amp) or the Klein CL390 (400amp). If you have any thoughts on that let me know.
@Jetter638 well whenever I'm faced with this dilemma it's always best to go overkill because when you don't have what you need... you don't have what you need.. cyber Mondays tomorrow probably can get it for a good deal if you look around :) however.. you probably will never see more than 200A in a solar system..
I have a panel that when shorted to test short circuit current I get a negative current which equals what the panel is rated. It this a sign of a bad bypass diode. By the way great video.
When you say negative, are you sure you aren't seeing the DC current symbol.. I doubt It's the diode. Flip your meter from AC to DC. Notice the symbols changes.. lmk
at 6.38 time you were under the panels .and testing the string under load,, it said - 22.16 why did it have the minis? - before the ##?? ive never seen this,, great vid by the way
I assume you mean 16.36 while reading the amps... that was not a minus sign it was the symbol for DC current. My meter reads both AC and DC current. It was in the DC mode.. you can see this if u fwd to 8.30. Additionally if I were reading DC volts and I had the Probes reverse it would show a minus sign since DC current has polarity or direction where as AC does not.. it moves back n forth .. hence Alternating Current VS. Direct Current.
0:17 this shade over panels lowers output of poly panels quite a lot.
For sure. That's where my panels normally sit as I don't have much room. They get sun later in day as they are west facing. This is not where I tested them, however.
@@natesdiysolar I can see in the video, that you tested panels a little bit to the left and facing south. Make sense to have another western string. i think that shade would disapear if you lift them more, also you would have some more storage space under them. But i think you have more solar power than you need even now.
@rm6857 it would . Just been lazy. These will go on the roof eventually. As it is I'm over producing. I have a large garden that takes up my entire yard
@rm6857 they are in full sun by 1pm and produce until 6pm
I'm curious because I was told never have the panels out in the S u n Disconnected because of the electrons does not have anywhere to go and you will burn out your panel.
I do not think that is true. Thanks for watching. I'm curious where you heard that...
gr8 vid. As always. 💯
Will there be a part 2 ,on how to make a cup of coffee ☕
Lol, possibly.. but that can be fairly complex.. might need to cut that up into 2 or 3 segments..
Cowfee
Hmm.. I'd NEVER the word PERFECT, even if it is for panel angle. I'm stunned anyone would say crawling under a live panel is just ridiculous. WOW..! That's going too far. People do it all the time. It's very safe as long as they aren't sticking metal tools into both leads and holding onto them. Nate, Nate, Nate..! then you go and blow up your tester live. I guess your SHTF that day. Hope your day went better after you made this video.
Lol yea well I have to say stuff like that else the OSHA trolls will chime in.. I'm sure people do it all the time... you just can't win.. yes, it's very ironic... all in the name of "science" lol..
I bought one of those solar panel testers and on my 4th panel it just died, never to display data again...
That sucks. Did you get A replacement?
@@natesdiysolar I tried but Amazon said the seller would not send a replacement so Amazon just credited my account.
I short circuited my inverter when turned it of from the mines when i had the pv circuit breaker on. i forgot to turn it off, and i did not have the AC CIRCUIT BREAKER GOING INTO THE INVESTOR IT DARK AND I WAS TIRED ALWAYS HAVE THE AC DC CIRCUIT BREAKERS. OR ALL THE WIRES GOING INTO INVERTER.
Ouch. Sorry to hear..
Warning , do not do prolonged current measurements with a multimeter, contact resistance in the mc4 could start melting them.
Good tip. Have you had this happen?
@@natesdiysolar I think its easy to test. Those probes have kind of sharp tips, so high resistance, after measuring check mc4 visually inside for black marks :)
Do you mean when you are measuring Volts using clamp meter or when you short circuit the panel to test with clamp meter?
@@wizardmagu he means when measuring amps using the probes in the connectors. 2 different ways to measure amps. Short circuit with clamp or probed set to amps on meter
It's not the contact resistance that melts them, it's the _arcing when the circuit is broken._
It’s surprising that it doesn’t have overvoltage protection, where you would only have to replace a fuse I know some of the more high solar panel meters have over voltage protection
Yea a simple fuse sure would be nice..
I think i would try n fix the meter, that chip shouldnt cost more than a few dollars mayb?
Yea I'm just lazy lol
Very nice video
Thanks
Off Topic. Do you have a video on NCM Lithium Battery safety. Odds for Fires or worst. How to up the safety protection level for them. I do have a Solar Storage Battery made of NCM Lithium. Its Obvious to me of recient that peoples new getting into Solar must have a command of this subject matter. Mess Up doing a reading with the AY800 is a Nasty. But Mess Up without enough knowledge of NCM LITHIUM Batteries, Lithium Ion Batteries can be extremely Costly.
I do not, but I'm sure someone does.. thanks for watching! I saw a video by a fire department a while back.. testing over charging different battery chemistries.. L ion did catch fire.
@@natesdiysolar Thank you for the referral
DL24MP use a battery capacity tester and turn into a MPPT tracker 2 - 200v range ....
Sorry about that but lets hope everyone doing this take note .By the way awesome vídeo verry helpfull bcuz soon gona buy solar panel
Thanks. It happens..
Dang you smoked your meter I hope i dont make the same mistake when i buy mine
Just be mindful of the VOC limit lol
@@natesdiysolar to bad it wasnt more like 100 volts 60 is an accident waiting to happen but ill try not to forget
@mannyfragoza9652 I know, especially with the 1600w version!!! That's crazy... 1600w but 60v limit lol what!!!!
Sorry your meter became toast. I’ve done stuff like that and created unnecessary expenses.
Enjoyed your video. There's a new test kit PVBuddy with non contact panel & array testing. Will be good to do a video with that in future.
I will check it out. Thanks
thanks
COOP
...
Not many clamps do DC
Yea. Be sure to get one that does
Bzzzzzzt ..... Oopsies! .... hahaha.... Good video though. I learned from you!
👍
Last week I was measuring 3 Renogy 450w panels with my AY800. HaHa. Lightening strikes twice in a week. Their new high watts unit is also 60v. Thats the Chinese for you. Made in China.
Yes I mentioned this in the video..
@@natesdiysolar Here is one of my AY800 reading from my Renogy 450w panel.
>>>>
renogy 450w label shows Short curcuit Amp as 13.89A
@Larry Wong my meter, showed similar results.. The only thing I can think of is that the meter is just not very accurate. I just put a clamp meter on while testing using the AY800, and it did not even register above 1A .. yea. It should not exceed the rated isc.. even at zero volts. You're correct. I was wrong to say that. I took the meter reading at face value, lol. I noticed if you take mutiple readings it will get it right lol.. A@pMax less than ISC.
@@natesdiysolar I like to press the AY continuous button.
Which can take as much as 20 seconds to do a calculation of those various readings.
Interesting that readings for just one panel happens after few seconds. When waiting for 3 panels AY reading results( all newpowa 220w's panels in Serial array)
it can take 20 seconds. Thus the AY meter's mppt has lots calculations to do with 3 panel array. With the continous button(one press) I just wait for more optimal results to show itself before I data log them.
test only one panel at a time lol
You gotta test new panels. Suppliers putting BS specs sticker on.
Wow, really.. have not heard of this but not surprised at all.
Isn't that a criminal offence in the US? Here in Europe, the least of consequences for such behaviour is getting the product pulled from the entire market if any of the countries' electricity agency find out about it and per default sends it to the others.
a mi ha pasado lo mismo ))))))
The voc is too low
I find it insane most dead panels end up in a landfill.. the cost to recylce gains less then 5 bucks. eco friendly they are not..what idiot created panels that arent recyclable, or a system in place.
Yes.. and there are plenty of used panels out there that work perfectly fine.
Wee. Panels.
Thanks for watching
WTF? A solar Multimeter that you can't read in the Sun.
Many meters are hard to read if sun glare.. of course you can read in the sun.. it was 110 degrees, and I wanted to work in the shade.. 😎
@@natesdiysolar Ok