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I’m so excited for him! 😄

@@MattKeepsFish I’m sure he would be too if he knew what you had planned xD Guess we’ll see when he gets introduced to his new home^^

@@PumpkinDumpling Start with your cardinal tetras, as they’re a solid dither fish for easing minor aggression in the aquarium and they’re probably among your priorities. After that, work your way down from which fish you absolutely NEED to have, to the ones you’d like - but you’d be okay without. This way you don’t miss out on your favourites if the tank ends up being too crowded. Also, if it was me, I’d trade multiple small schools for fewer, larger schools. This increases breeding behaviours and creates a very cohesive aesthetic. I would add that you use large hardscape. Something about it - if placed well- creates a territory line that both rams will respect. This is in the case that you end up with same-sex (especially male) rams. If you have a pair and they’re showing breeding behaviour: create space for them to nest, as well as less significant barriers should they ever have disagreements. Remember: plants can be unpredictable in their growth and decay, but a solid piece of rock or wood is not going anywhere.

@@leons5k That’s awesome! Have you considered starting off with live foods like black worms and seed shrimp?

@@MattKeepsFish before adding the fish?? Sounds like an amazing idea. I don’t even have the tank or the stand yet so it will probably happen in a relatively far future hahaha but I’ll definitely keep that in mind

@@X-Prime123 Are you in Eastern ON? There’s some at Critter Jungle last time I was there

@@WadeTheLion 1. The smallest type is typically thought to be the ember tetra or green neon. Does it need to be a tetra though? Lots of other nano schooling fish out there! 2. As many as you can! 3. Also as many as you can, the reason being is that in both cases: it will reduce ingroup aggression (more for the embers), reduce stress, and increase natural behaviours, such as schooling and breeding - and it will create a more cohesive look! 4. As big as you can lol. I do understand that everyone has a budget; I do too, but if you want to get the most out of a fish, you need to put a lot into it. I have seen ember tetras in massive tanks however, and honestly, it doesn’t look that good. Especially since the ember tetras cease to school once they’ve become calm. It’s harder to film them and harder to enjoy because of how far-off they appear in the scape. If you wanted them with other tetras in a large tank, they can serve as a good secondary school: something to look for past your school of emperor tetras. So the biggest I would put them in and still enjoy as the primary school, would be a 40 gallon, but I love them in the 20; I could even go to - and have before - a 5 gallon. Just remember that you will need more ember tetras in a larger tank if you want to have a good visual impact with them. Here’s some numbers: if I was using a 30 gallon, I would probably have 30 ember tetras in it if they were the primary school, and if I didn’t have CPD’s in my 20, I’d probably go for a total of 20 to match the size too. You could probably have more than one per gallon however, but start slow and see how high you can go. A “Plan of Action” could be: 1. figure out the space that you want to be dedicated to an aquarium. Is it 2ft? You could have a 20, 10, or custom non-standard tank in that range. 2. Based on the tank size that fits that space, determine how many tetras/Cory’s will fit and create a good visual impact. 3. Get the tank, plant, and cycle. Start with a school of 6 tetras and then test a week later to see if the nitrates are being maintained. 4. If they are, add 6 hastatus. Test again. 5. Repeat, repeat, repeat. 6. You will eventually reach a point when you are happy with the number, don’t want to go over budget, or your nitrates are not being maintained by your plants/desired water change schedule. 7. If you ended up with too many to maintain, return/sell the excess TL;DR 1. Smallest is green neon/ember tetra 2. At least 6 of each (generally acceptable number) 3. ^ 4. For either, minimum 5; for both together, minimum 10 (or fluval 9)

@MattKeepsFish thank you so much. This is my first time keeping fish on my own. I saw some corydora hastatus and I quickly wanted them. I have a Top Fin 10 gallon tank starter kit. The green neon tetras and ember are beautiful so it's really hard to choose. That's why I'm going off which is the smallest. So for a 10 gallon, would 5 green neon tetra or ember tetras (depending on which one I choose) and 5 corydora hastatus be good with that size tank?

@@WadeTheLion Yes, but you probably could - and I would suggest - increasing the size of both schools! Start small though. You don’t want to spike the ammonia with too much waste before the bacteria is strong.

@MattKeepsFish oh okay thank you so much

@@jacksonwsiss-ts3oq Definitely Amano. Maybe Neocaridina if there’s enough cover

@@lTSR0BBY Do you forgo a filter altogether using a combination of plants and airstones?

@@MattKeepsFish correct, no filter, only air stones. Water is topped up from evaporation but that's it.

@@shaemonmacklin2757 Sounds like an awesome tank! I will put those on the menu 😄

People don’t realize that it’s gotta get gross before it gets pretty!

@@MattKeepsFish exactly

Exactly. There are some cases where customers give me a strict tank size firsthand, but it usually ends in being a little frustrated with the options available to that size.

@@MattKeepsFish Can imagine so, especially if they’re the kind to start out with small tanks

Thanks man!

Nope! Only eat mould.

They were good times. The next time I keep them, it’ll be with all ambush predators: banjo catfish, African butterfly fish, leaf fish, etc.

You’re welcome! 😇

Fr js said is this dude high

🤣

Exactly! First year is where it’s just getting good!! ♥️

Maybe this explains how they can justify such a small adult size 🤔

Who?

Very true. They clog quickly, are ineffective at catching debris, and can be more annoying to clean. However, they can easily fill a space without need for sizing & cutting, and can be packed into filter bags for use in the aquascape. Not very effective, but not without its place for the right person.

Good question. No, it doesn’t. You want bacteria in an aquarium, but the same bacteria could make your dog sick. Plus, you would mainly use your filter to chemically purify the water for your dog, not to consume ammonia/nitrite, which shouldn’t be there in the first place.

​@@MattKeepsFish the nitrifying bacteria we use in awuarium filters isn't pathogenic.

@@dimitrijekrstic7567 Thank you for researching that. All the same, your priority for a dog would be chemical filtration to ensure that the water is sterile of all biological contaminants.

Nah man, the opposite. But make sure it’s in old tank water! The chlorine in tap water will have a negative effect on your bacteria’s vitality.

I’ve had success w rainbows, ghost cats, many loaches, corydoras, gobies, dwarf frogs, live bearers, twig catfish, flower shrimp, etc! Good video idea

I know 😂😂 Only day I had to shoot, and I hadn’t had a glass of water until that evening

​@@MattKeepsFish the biggest scam is sand. I worked at an aquarium store and i would get a garbage bag that i had to go to roadworks and just fill the bags, those would be sold as clean sand. Absolute scam

@@ThatGuy-vj3hh The stuff you learn once you work in the industry is insane. I’ll have to do a video on that soon.

​@@ThatGuy-vj3hh and the biggest hack for buying sand is to buy casting sand. Like that used for making molds of things. It's extremely devoid of any bigger or smaller particles than the particle size it is rated at.

Dang, where were you two years ago 😂

I agree with everything that you said, other than ph tolerance. Corydoras may be found in waters of those ph values, but their tolerance has been found to depend more on the stability of these conditions than the conditions themselves (see ruclips.net/video/B9VfuiWqeY4/видео.htmlsi=8XFyhcxKXJRVHcDJ). I would agree that there is a range, but this is more limited than what is experienced. I am very appreciative of your comment on infection. It appears that my sand was still dirty in the aquarium, leading to the infection of the catfish I had here, and later on in a different aquarium with the same sand. I have since ceased to have sifting catfish on this substrate and have made greater efforts to clean it. 3ft tanks would not be ideal for any fish so dependent on atmospheric oxygen, however it is quite common to see them I 75 gallon tanks, which are under 2 feet deep, and so don’t cause any noticeable concern that I have noticed in the community. No, I hadn’t had these fish for long before I created a guide on them, and this was because the only guide circulating was from Dan’s Fish: ruclips.net/video/kmEG6JVLB2k/видео.htmlsi=p5WFW4HhI_CnFesE My intention was to add to the body of knowledge through my experience with this species and, although it took some time, through corrective commenters like yourself.