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Thanks 👍

Wlecome onboard Pete! It's been a RIDE but I'm learning loads right now and in the future will defintiely be making a video about the ADHD stuff for sure! It's pretty all encompassing and I appreciate your kind words :-D

@steppings5645 thanks: you obviously have good taste😉

I look forward to hearing from you Kev 🤜🏻! I sure do have experience with Berd: Building wheels with BERD SPOKES. NEW Berd TALON HUB released! ruclips.net/video/yLy1JdSTHAo/видео.html

@@RyanBuildsWheels Excellent. I'll be looking for two pairs of weight weenie super light aero wheels at some point next year. One rim brake pair; one disc brake.

Aw Matt! I'm so sorry :'-(!!! I'm only an hour or so away over the Bridge and the riding around here is excellent; you are MORE than welcome to get in touch to come by for a cuppa :-).

Nice! Which bits of the alps did you go to?!

It's fair to say that this video is doing pretty well thus far thanks Martin; giving me lots of food for thought on where I and how I want to take the channel thus far; I'm really touched that you noticed :-). Said AMA is going to go live shortly; I was having some umms and ahh's about editing it as we touched on some pretty heavy topics but re-watching it I feel what we discussed can be understood to come from a good place...wow...talk about a teaser for folks hey?!

With the correct internal nipple driver; a good example would be the Parl Tool SW-15 which allows several options.

@@RyanBuildsWheels Thank you, I was. wondering how to grip the internal nipple..

Yep!

Very cool! Closed bed though...EURGH! Now THAT is a truly patience testing build Citaly! If you do another carbon spoke build with this manufacturers spokes then I can indeed highly suggest the Aero spokes; consistency is much better :-).

LOL! Sorry to keep you waiting ;-)!

One of my next videos will be entitled 'Why Wheel Weight Doesn't Matter' Raymond ;-).

Aye; assembly was a pain! I've now built with the larger Aero spokes and those were much quicker; not sure I'll go with the thinner spokes if building in carbon again.

No nipple glueing happening here Mike; which part of the spoke do you mean?

The titanium nipple part at the rim comes apart. Don’t know how to send pictures, but I can show you.

As do I!

MARTIN! Great to hear from you; email incoming ;-)! You know I even added 'Master Wheel Builder' to my business cards of late; I'm not afraid to note that I've clocked WELL over my 10,000 hours this past decade and a bit ;-). I'm reading 'The Craftsman' by Richard Sennett right now and re-reading a bunch of other stuff around craft in general; I think there's a real politic to it.

Aside from Extralite - to my knowledge - all of those brands above don't have their 'own' carbon rims per se; they'll all be sourcing from a variety of factories that makes loads of rims for third parties regardless so a 'DT' rim isn't really a DT rim at all for example (but I'm happy to be proven wrong on this point if it needs to be refuted). Don't fall for brand names is my top advice here. Which leaves your question where to look: two high end brands that I'm happy to reccomend are South Industries and @reservewheels3482; I've had great times building both of their products. Venn Cycling are my *go to* option for quality OEM carbon rim options and my own in house range of carbon builds launching this year utilise them exclusively. Paul over at @Mapdec digs em too I believe :-). I'm going to have to stick up for LB though: I've built many of their rims over the years and the only failure I've ever seen was a pressure blow out on one of their lightest models caused by rider error (where pressure from the tubeless system enters the rim). Have you any direct experience with their product?

A friend of mine who's a German engineer builds lots of light bicycle rims. Only good things to say about them.

I agree. I have a pair I’ve used quite heavily for 8 years. All good.

I built a wheelset using Light Bicycle rims 46mm deep and rim brake compatible. I've had them two seasons now, no problems.

@@RyanBuildsWheels thank you for the long response! I’ve not had any experience with Light Bicycle, and I take your point on brand names not necessarily manufacturing in-house (most often it’s not!)? I guess my qualm is whether there’s any decent engineering or QC that goes on and that’s what I’d expect to be getting from a brand name. I know that’s not necessarily the case, of course but it’s psychological I suppose. I also don’t like the imperfections of carbon rims - voids, bubbling, lack of compaction…. which isn’t seen. At least with aluminium rims what you see is what you get. I love me a good DT or HED rim. For the average punter that’s all we really need!

It's good for you ;-)!

I didn't, I got RBW to do mine whilst living in Bucks. But I now live in Bristol...

Mega thanks Tony and thanks for your kind words about the weekenders! I love teaching and am now also offering 1 to 1 classes on a day basis too during the working week! It was a pleasure having you and I'm stoked to be reminded that you live close by; we'll grab that coffee soon! Pt3 is here (ruclips.net/video/mzv5T4OBFTw/видео.html&ab_channel=RyanBuildsWheels) but because it's only the second step (Pt 1 is "Tools you'll need") I get the confusion. Pt4 being edited this week / next and will be the next video uploaded :-D! Keep your eyes peeled!

I'm glad someone likes my brain! I'm learning more about it all the time ;-)!

@@RyanBuildsWheels your wheels aren't half bad either

Thanks Paul: I try my best! I've since got my hands on some of the bladed rather than oval affairs and those are much more consistent: building with them was easier for sure 👍🏻

Love that Mapdec and RBW are mates 😍

Hey @Firmbutton6485; what do you mean by 'let go' please? I'd really like to hear; had the spokes failed in some way? When did you first buy the wheels would be super interesting to know too! Was it LB who rebuilt them for you or did you have to go with someone local? Extralites on Berd will be a fantastic set so great to hear you got a killer set of wheels in the end!

@@RyanBuildsWheels the titanium ends, where they screw into the rims had come apart completely. 8 out of the 48 before they were even fitted to the bike. I will ping you some pics by your website.

It's great to be back Lizheng 🎉❤!

And a very nice set to build they were John! Lovely to hear from you and thanks very much indeed for the well wishes!

@@RyanBuildsWheels Good luck with your new venture 👍

Absolutely! But this is also likely tied to the rims and tyres you have to boot.

A carbon spoke body with titanium threaded ends :-)

It's a classic!

Hey @Fixed-cc ! I've used both the Morizumi and the Kowa STC extensively; a small amount of experience on the Phil. I'd like to do a video on this subject in the future but if I were advising any shop then I'd most certainly favour the Morizumi :-).

@@RyanBuildsWheels Yes I would love to see a video about that topic! :-)

Because I'm an amateur videographer / content creator who is just starting out and learning as he goes is why ;-). I If you want more quality DIY content with silly mistakes that won't be made again heaven forbid you watch the interview with BSC Tools (in which you actually get a **DISCOUNT CODE!!!***) but have to put up with some clunky sound... Anyway, thanks for helping me plug that little bit of info...I look forward to seeing your first upload ;-).

Thanks so much Jeff!

It's coming...but I've been awaiting final edits from the person who shot these for some time now... I'll go prod em ;-).

Fantastic news Peter! So glad it helped! For those that didn't know the above lacing instructions can be followed regardless of how many crosses you've got in the wheel; 1, 2, 3, 4X are all possible; you just change the number of sections and interlace on the final cross. Example; 3X goes over/over/under...4x over/over/over/under. Eception: 1x: NO interlacing!

I definitely prefer the EX511 as a rim and - depending on rider weight and riding style you're likely able to get away with the XM481 instead TBH :-). I use Bitex hubs all the time and have a blog on them here (www.ryanbuildswheels.co.uk/in-depth-bitex-bicycle-hubs/) ; I think they're great! That said Hope's hubs are also excellent and won't let you down; my most used brand of hub outside of Bitex.

Thankyou for the reply mate. Very helpful

I've not used them yet but the finish is extra nice and Hoshi (the manufacturer) is known to produce very fine kit.

@@RyanBuildsWheels Thank you for the reply, a local builder didn't want to use them for a build I am piecing together, as he claimed they are made by Pillar, and are trash :/

A bit aye

Covering this in a future video ABSOLUTELY! It can be tricky ;-)

Appreciate it! The final two videos in this series are underway!

I've certainly re-built them with fresh spokes but, seeing as I'm a custom wheelbuilder, that's not something that I''d build from scratch seeing as they're a branded factory wheelset. Is it a calculating straighpull spokes that is given you issues with them? I will do a video on this in the future :-)

As in you can't remove the 'bend' by truing the wheel using spoke tension? Sounds like it's kaput tbh Lance! Without seeing the whel in perosn it's hard ot know what you mean I'm afraid.

@Lanceblack888: it's a Lacing Jig :-). This one came from Noble Tools (no longer in business, a real shame) but others are available

If you're using the method / calculator I suggest in this video (SpokeLenghtProject) then ALWAYS round up yes :-)>. This is to guard against the risk of having too little thread above the 'shoulder' of your nipples and to protect against them snapping where they're weakest (especially if alloy, being more brittle than brass) but note that this is dependent on how you've measure ERD and - if using ERD Sticks (see my video on the subject: two links below) - how you've got the 'depth' of the stick setup. General rule of thumb to play it safe though: AWALYS ROUND UP. Anyone offering custom cut spokes (www.SpokesFromRyan.com!!!) can offer spokes in any mm length so going odd numbers isn't a problem. If you can only access even sized spokes then rounding up is still usually preferable. VIDZ: -How to measure ERD correctly: ruclips.net/video/-St4HoJhLEA/видео.html -How to make your own ERD Sticks: ruclips.net/video/VSrEv67KgbY/видео.html

That means an awful lot thanks @AidanWGGuitar! And apologies it took me so long to see and reply to this comment! I've been away for a while because last year I discovered that I have ADHD; this has taken a bit of a toll but I also want to make a video about THAT now...there are SO MANY intersections that come into the realm of cycling and it's often lacking diversity and I want to tackle each in the future For example: class, sexuality, neuro-diversity and being politically radical are the one's I can speak about from personal experience. Other intersections such as race and gender I'm not qualified to speak on via lived experience and so these would be great topics to find people who would like to talk about them in a candid and right on way.

They do indeed come threaded 👍🏻😀! Nipple length (which, remember, does not affect spoke length), can be dependent on your rim and how thick it’s spoke bed is and / or if you’re using washers. Most alloy rims without eyelets will be fine with 12mm, if you’re using washers or eyeleted rims 14mm may be required to clear the rim when truing and not scratch it with your spoke key. Some carbon rims have a very thick spike bed. Nipples which are ‘too long’ will rarely be a problem. A 14mm nipple should suit almost every use case.

@@RyanBuildsWheels thank you very much!