Not that anybody asked but they’ll be 29” light bicycle recon rims laced to 32 hole ERASE MTB boost hubs. Dt comp spokes, brass squorx nipples and pro head washers. Had a taste of wheelbuilding when i decided to replace the rims on my bike a couple months ago. Now I am obsessed
I believe this is the most common way of measuring erd, as most people will have a spoke and a ruler. Greatv.vis though. Like the threadlock idea. I think you can crimp the nipple too, so it doesn't move.
Absolutely the most common way yeah; this upload intended as a quick one for people just getting started :-). Crimping works OK I've found depending on the tool used; I go for threadlock as a big dent in the tool sets my teeth on edge, LOL! Another option would be Prolock or SILS type nipples from DT Swiss / Sapim or any other equivalent whereby the threadlock / deformation of each helps the nip stay in place :_).
Hey Ryan, is there an issue with keeping the j-bend heads on and measuring with some digital callipers at the point they bend? Had success with multiple wheel builds this way so I'd love to know if your way has a specific reason.
I've never tried it this way but I can't see why not TBF; so long as you're able to set the distance between that bend and the top of the slot accurately you're all good: what's more - thinking about it - this means less chance of non horizontal ERD sticks messing with a measurement on wider rims and I can also see a use case scenario for being able to hold the sticks at their J-Bend with an elastic band for easier hands free measuring. The only downside I can see is that on some rims it might be a faff to 'thread' through the spoke holes but otherwise I think it's an excellent idea and I'll try it out :-). Will report back; likely in another short!
For Sqourx and other 'double' drive nipples set the spokes so as they at *least* go past the poing where a slot would like if you put a slotted nipple alongside; you can also choose to fill the whole head of a double drive nipple; but I prefer to leave, say, 3mm to account for further spoke stretch or the ability to use a longer spoke if needed should that be all you can get hold of.
@@RyanBuildsWheels hmmm, maybe i’m not understanding but it seems that for double drive nipples that method leaves 1-2mm of variance in your measurement and therefore the spoke length calculation may be off by 1-2mm as well. Does this mean double drive nipples tolerate imperfect spoke lengths better? Bonus question, when using double drive - if I understand correctly you would personally recommend rounding *up* spoke lengths if using all DT Swiss components and an odd number was required but all you could get was even numbers?
Nice and easy; decide where you want your spokes to end within the nipple and set to that area; measurement can be a bit more difficult but no biggie; so long as you know you've goe enough thread engagement you're good to go :-).
@@RyanBuildsWheels I measure by firstly pushing a spoke in from the wheel side to find where the nipple thread starts. Then once I know total nipple thread length, I screw a spoke into the top of the nipple to the point where I want my ERD spoke to thread to (i.e. the point where I'll have equal spoke thread either side of the rim bed). A decent way to measure do you think?
Just got my rims in the mail for my first wheel build. This video came just in time!
Not that anybody asked but they’ll be 29” light bicycle recon rims laced to 32 hole ERASE MTB boost hubs. Dt comp spokes, brass squorx nipples and pro head washers. Had a taste of wheelbuilding when i decided to replace the rims on my bike a couple months ago. Now I am obsessed
Glad I could help!
Enjoy! Stoked to have you along for the ride :-)!
I believe this is the most common way of measuring erd, as most people will have a spoke and a ruler.
Greatv.vis though.
Like the threadlock idea.
I think you can crimp the nipple too, so it doesn't move.
Absolutely the most common way yeah; this upload intended as a quick one for people just getting started :-).
Crimping works OK I've found depending on the tool used; I go for threadlock as a big dent in the tool sets my teeth on edge, LOL! Another option would be Prolock or SILS type nipples from DT Swiss / Sapim or any other equivalent whereby the threadlock / deformation of each helps the nip stay in place :_).
Hey Ryan, is there an issue with keeping the j-bend heads on and measuring with some digital callipers at the point they bend? Had success with multiple wheel builds this way so I'd love to know if your way has a specific reason.
I've never tried it this way but I can't see why not TBF; so long as you're able to set the distance between that bend and the top of the slot accurately you're all good: what's more - thinking about it - this means less chance of non horizontal ERD sticks messing with a measurement on wider rims and I can also see a use case scenario for being able to hold the sticks at their J-Bend with an elastic band for easier hands free measuring.
The only downside I can see is that on some rims it might be a faff to 'thread' through the spoke holes but otherwise I think it's an excellent idea and I'll try it out :-). Will report back; likely in another short!
@@RyanBuildsWheels ah awesome! Subbed and good luck :)
Great! But how do you align it for nipples that don’t have a slotted head in which to rest your vernier caliper? (eg: squorx)?
For Sqourx and other 'double' drive nipples set the spokes so as they at *least* go past the poing where a slot would like if you put a slotted nipple alongside; you can also choose to fill the whole head of a double drive nipple; but I prefer to leave, say, 3mm to account for further spoke stretch or the ability to use a longer spoke if needed should that be all you can get hold of.
@@RyanBuildsWheels hmmm, maybe i’m not understanding but it seems that for double drive nipples that method leaves 1-2mm of variance in your measurement and therefore the spoke length calculation may be off by 1-2mm as well. Does this mean double drive nipples tolerate imperfect spoke lengths better? Bonus question, when using double drive - if I understand correctly you would personally recommend rounding *up* spoke lengths if using all DT Swiss components and an odd number was required but all you could get was even numbers?
Hi Ryan, thanks for the video. How do you do it for nipples that don’t have a slot? Eg. Double square
Nice and easy; decide where you want your spokes to end within the nipple and set to that area; measurement can be a bit more difficult but no biggie; so long as you know you've goe enough thread engagement you're good to go :-).
@@RyanBuildsWheels I measure by firstly pushing a spoke in from the wheel side to find where the nipple thread starts. Then once I know total nipple thread length, I screw a spoke into the top of the nipple to the point where I want my ERD spoke to thread to (i.e. the point where I'll have equal spoke thread either side of the rim bed). A decent way to measure do you think?