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Hi Olly, Interesting to see the "precisión" of the compound slide as delivered. You will have made a great improvement. Well explained and presented video, well done. Top marks for cleaning up afterwards!! All the best!!

Following with interest 👍 I usually succeed in spite of my compound, rather than because of it. Making it de-installable so it can be fitted only when required is on the to-do list...

That looks like a great improvement and it was fun to watch how you did this

Great job, I really like your installation. You have encouraged us to think of installing a DRO on our lathe and gave us some good ideas, thanks

Just catching up with your videos after a busy year. This was a fantastic idea for the scale

enjoying how you make videos here n Central Florida, US...Cheers......Paul

🤣 wayne's world. hahahahaaha

Great fix. On my myford 7 I made a solid block which I fixed the tool post to. It massively improved rigidity and was able to fit a larger toolpost. It's amazing how little you actually need the compound. If you scroll through Steve Jordans videos you can see the mod, which I'm sure you could adapt to your lathe.👍

Good plan to switch to solid toolpost, its the way on these small lathes.

Going through the same process myself. Great to see your experience. Thanks

nice one Olly Far Eastern machines have to evolve, before there to a usable satifactory state see you next time👍👍👍👍 Kev

I would call that a win, for sure.

Brilliant job as always mate, Cheers

My minilathe will have a similar topslide. I think this will be a good improvement!

Great improvement for the lathe will be interesting to see your take on the solid toolpost. Good call for Hersch Tool, I've been watching him for a while has done a few good projects

I never use a compound anymore. I use my nano ELS if I need to cut tapers or compound angles. It puzzles me that these lathes dont come with these systems given how cheap they are to make.

What diameter is the hole please mate ?

Excellent work. We shared this video on our homemade tool forum last week, and people really liked it 😎

Skilled work!

I thought it might be useful to repost my comment from the original video for viewres that missed it before it was posted. " Clamping the parallel shank of a tool by spring pressure is not used in industry for obvious reasons. Bellevile washers are used to clamp solid tapers into a socket via a drawbar where the inherent friction of the taper and drive keys stop the toolholder from spinning. The cutting tool is securely clamped in the toolholder. " Sealed collets would keep the chips out of the spindle bore. With about 2mm of free travel on a pair of Belleville washers do you need to have 1mm compression for clamping and the remaining 1 mm for unloading. If this is the approximate case as the load is non linear then the initial clamping zone of 1mm will be a small load and the unclamping extra 1mm of travel will be much higher. Would you use the clamping method of pulling the release bar back and tightening the nut by hand, then releasing the bar allowing the springs to clamp the part therefore a custom knurled nut may suffice.

Clamping the parallel shank of a tool by spring pressure is not used in industry for obvious reasons. Bellevile washers are used to clamp solid tapers into a socket via a drawbar where the inherent friction of the taper and drive keys stop the toolholder from spinning. The cutting tool is securely clamped in the toolholder.

I have had both of these mills , the Seig is a step below the Weiss . The PM version of the vm25 is a couple steps above the Weiss machine. The PM line of machines are the better deal.

Always a joy to watch your uploads, thanks for sharing!

Nice work Olly 👍 Is that mysterious extra spindle poking out from the control box just for the chuck guard cover thing to sit on, or does it do something exciting?

Good one, Olly. Just keep in mind that you're not alowed to make mistakes on dimentions anymore :)

Nice job Olly. DRO's are certainly a game changer on the lathe and the mill. Regards Kevin

great Demo Olly👍👍👍👍👍👍 i'm still old school, Imperial and Dials, just the way i was brought up, may be one day when i'm old and decrepid i'll fit a DRO 🤣🤣👍👍👍👍 nice one atb Kev

Very nice work sir. Just done mine as well. It’s very helpful.

Thanks for sharing. I’m still mulling over how I’m planning to attach my scales. I’m glad you shared your adventure. It is helpful to visualize!

Hi Olly. Fitting a DRO to my lathe was a game changer for me. Always a challenge to fit, but luckily mine was a kit designed especially for the Myford Super 7 and has an embedded solution for the cross slide. Very neat design. 👏👏👍😀

Hi Olly, well done!! You made some good improvements too. Look forward to seeing you do the mapping. Have a great weekend!!

Well Done Olly, Did not know that those slides could be non linear along their length, but obviously the designer/builder did and allowed a way of correcting it. Just wondering how many units were made before they realised and did correct it, Always pays to buy 2nd or later generation products.👍 There may be a story in there for EV car buyers...

I discovered +/- 0.4mm adjustable ones for about the same price - smallest possible being 1/4 inch (6mm) Also hand reaming should eliminate the run-out wobble of a fixed setup.

G'day Olly. Kudos mate, that was a bloody good idea mate. I have a similar problem with my colchester as I need a very slim scale to fit it. Hence why it still doesn't have DRO just yet. Cheers, Aaron.

Your idea to convert to push/pull (pull/pull) does not have to run up inside the cross slide. As it is only a wire (2 wires), the interference with the tailstock would be insignificant compared to the scale.

I think you gave up too soon. I know, easy for me to say, you obviously put in many many hours already, but hey just doing my job as a spectator. If you pull the cable straight out of the pulley and eliminate the cosine error as you mentioned, i think that is half the problem. The other half i think is not enough tension. I would try a MUCH stiffer spring, something strong enough to actually preload the nut against the leadscrew. Might have to double up or triple up on your aramid yarn. If that doesnt work then yeah, you will need to close the loop like you metioned. But I like the spring because (if stiff enough) it turns your acme nut into a zero backlash nut. If you're going to close the loop and use timibg belt you might as well ditch the linear scale and just use a rotary encoder. It would take up a lot less room. And the belts could be routed through those places where you didn't want a linear scale because it might get damaged. It would just need a low profile shield to keep chips off it.

Perhaps you could do a conversion like they do for a myford ML7 or Super seven. Mill a slot in your cross slide and glue a magnetic strip there. I bought a kit fro M-DRO ,but I'm sure you could make one yourself.

Thanks so much for this - you've saved a lot of us a lot of time. I often think up "creative" solutions that generations of real engineers have long since abandoned for very good reason!

needs to be push-pull... two cables tensioned against each other. as you will see in applications like exhaust servo valves, throttle cables, or ailerons etc. as it isnt under load, mere fishing line will do... braided filament? lot more flexible. the cable has to pull on the slide in parallel, in line as it comes off the pulley. the angle gives a trig error... and places excessive load on the slide. using a rotary encoder, and a timing belt, with the same "stationary belt moving pulley" setup you see on larger gantry style machines... resolution will be dictated by the pulley diameter. as well as encoder... a small geared stepper will possibly achieve better resolution, but will need signal conditioning to give decent logic levels. how many pulses can you get per turn and how does that equate to travel?

I think every moving part adds some backlash, the fundamental physics can't be changed. Even the optical scale readers have backlash specified in the data sheets +/- 5um for the decent ones.

I encountered an application that had a push/pull hydraulic system to create an accurate and positive, backlash-free tool feed feed movement. No cable, no screws. You could still use your feed screw, the hydraulic would only move the measuring parts.

Gday Olly, bloody shame this didn’t work out, it would’ve been a perfect solution for many lathes, really it’s a brilliant idea, Neil definitely had a creative mind and I hope to see more videos pop up over time on his channel, great video mate, cheers

I like the idea. It must be able to be solved or the reel type scales wouldn't work at all. Better wire options may be the stranded stainless wire used as gear cable replacement on mountain bikes, or, pike trace , even thinner stranded stainless wire used for the first few feet of a fishing line for fish with sharp teeth!.

Great! I’ve the same issue with my lathe and had purchased a similar dro! I look forward to your solution!

I think it wloul be easier to just read the dials instead of installing a DRO. But, of course, that's not a challenge :) This is a brilliant idea and with a bit more thinking, it would work just fine.

bloody marvellous idea Olly and Neil, unlucky, back to the drawing board new ideas always need to be tried, hard luck see you next time atb kev

Very creative idea

Hi Olly. That was an interesting and enjoyable fail. Overcoming backlash is indeed the curse of that design. I hope you find a solution. Good luck.

Hi Olly, this was a very interesting exercise and maybe there is still scope to make it work. I think your efforts would be better focussed on traditional positions for the DRO though. That said, it did remind me of the chart recorders that I was involved in making before they made a jump into graphic display with printed traces. These models had a paper tape indicator, coloured on one half such that the colour divide coincided with zero at one extreme and full scale at the other. Behind this you had cord which was wrapped around a bobbin and worked consistently, of course using this kind of system in a lathe environment would be too harsh for it I think. Not too dissimilar to the radio as already mentioned. Definitely no time wasted, well done for giving it a go. All the best!!