![Jason Charlton](/img/default-banner.jpg)
- Видео 64
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Jason Charlton
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Добавлен 31 авг 2013
Welcome to my little droid workshop.
This channel is mostly dedicated to my ongoing quest to build my very own R2D2 Astromech droid. I am using the wonderful 3D print files of Michael Baddeley, as well as the copious amounts of knowledge available at www.astromech.net. I am certain to learn a lot along the way, and hope this channel can help me share that knowledge with anyone else who might be interested in bringing a small part of their childhood fantasies to life.
This channel is mostly dedicated to my ongoing quest to build my very own R2D2 Astromech droid. I am using the wonderful 3D print files of Michael Baddeley, as well as the copious amounts of knowledge available at www.astromech.net. I am certain to learn a lot along the way, and hope this channel can help me share that knowledge with anyone else who might be interested in bringing a small part of their childhood fantasies to life.
DroidCon '24
An event by builders and for builders, DroidCon is a chance for builders from all over to gather together and spend a few days admiring builds, comparing notes, tinkering and problem solving.
The builds shown here are but a sampling of the exceptional and mind-blowing creations these talented builders have produced. Droid builders are a unique community - as evidenced by the overwhelming friendliness and camaraderie that was on display for the entire event.
My heartfelt thanks to everyone involved in putting together this amazing event. It's an experience I won't ever forget, and hopefully won't ever miss again!
I will see you all at the next one!
The builds shown here are but a sampling of the exceptional and mind-blowing creations these talented builders have produced. Droid builders are a unique community - as evidenced by the overwhelming friendliness and camaraderie that was on display for the entire event.
My heartfelt thanks to everyone involved in putting together this amazing event. It's an experience I won't ever forget, and hopefully won't ever miss again!
I will see you all at the next one!
Просмотров: 699
Видео
B2 Deep Dive: Texture, Paint, and Weathering
Просмотров 1982 месяца назад
Here I provide a detailed breakdown of the materials, tools, and processes that I used to give my B2 a grungy, weathered appearance that I feel is a close approximation to how he looks in universe. I compare the use of both joint compound and two-part body filler to achieve the textured appearance, I discuss paint colors and why I chose the color that I did, and provide a quick demonstration of...
B2 Build Update: We're Ready for DroidCon!
Просмотров 3152 месяца назад
Bee is officially complete enough for DroidCon '24! I still have a couple of weeks left for some additional fine tuning and maybe to add some "nice to haves". This weekend was all about dialing in the servos and figuring out the software. Thanks to some help from Stephane Beaulieu I have a pretty solid grasp of Kyber, though I'm sure I'll learn a lot more while we're in Indianapolis. I've also ...
Never Install Magnets Backward Again!
Просмотров 2272 месяца назад
We've all been there before: securing a magnet in place only to discover later that it's backward! I've learned a very simple and effective strategy for maintaining the proper polarity for magnets as I prep and install them. Maybe this will help you, too?
B2 Build Update: Skins!
Просмотров 4313 месяца назад
Finally he's starting to come together! The past couple of months have been spent working on getting Bee's body panels textured, painted, and weathered. The end result is everything I had hoped it would be. Here I just wanted to showcase the end result without getting into the particulars of the processes I used. That will be covered in a future "deep dive" video for those that really are inter...
B2 Build Update: Super Sized!
Просмотров 7997 месяцев назад
So much has happened since my last update. In this video I walk through some of the external features of the Baddeley B2 build then take a deeper dive into some key aspects of the electronics build out that are different from my R2D2 build: - The use of LiPo batteries and some best practices for charging and storing them (many thanks to DroneBotWorkshop for much of my education) - A look at the...
R2 Goes to Air & Scare 2023!
Просмотров 6369 месяцев назад
On October 28, 2023, R2 and I headed down to the Air and Space museum's Udvar-Hazy Center in Chantilly, Virginia for the annual Air & Scare Halloween event. This is by far my favorite event - there are so many amazing Star Wars costumes and droids that you almost can't take it all in. R2 and I spent the day roaming around the museum and having a blast posing for pictures, talking all things Sta...
R2 Drive Inspection Results in a Horrifying Discovery!
Просмотров 1,1 тыс.9 месяцев назад
In preparation for an upcoming event, I decided to disassemble and inspect my drives with the intention of implementing the sonic hub drive gear update. When I took apart the right side drive, I made an unexpected discovery. In addition to a loose bolt from the metal flange update, I find out that the drive frame surround that holds the motor in place had completely cracked into two pieces! The...
B2 Build Update: First Drive Test!
Просмотров 67510 месяцев назад
The Kyber system is up and running! I've spent much of the past couple weeks wrapping my head around Kyber and understanding how to go about setting it up. It's quite the paradigm shift from what I'm used to, but so far I am loving it! This was literally the first time I had powered everything on while connected to the actual drives. I hope to get him tuned in the coming days and will post more...
B2 Build Update: Finishing the Drives and Preparing for Electronics
Просмотров 1,3 тыс.11 месяцев назад
My full size B2EMO build continues! I finish out the four drive units and attach them to the main frame. I also establish disconnects for both the motor and lift servo for each drive to improve maintainability. Finally, I begin work on the body lift mechanism while I wait on the final components to arrive for the electronics. 90 degree quick connect crimp connectors: www.digikey.com/en/products...
My Full-Size B2EMO Build Has Begun!
Просмотров 1,3 тыс.11 месяцев назад
Let's build a new full-size droid! This marks the start of a new droid build. B2EMO as seen in the series Andor is one of the latest offerings from Michael Baddeley. Currently available to his Patrons, if you'd like to build one yourself, head over to his Patreon page to sign up: www.patreon.com/mrbaddeley/posts In this first part, I build the mostly metal base frame and make good headway on th...
Installing Body Lights with Magnetic Door Switches
Просмотров 1,8 тыс.Год назад
Installing Body Lights with Magnetic Door Switches
The Prusa XL is Here! (and I need a bigger workbench)
Просмотров 4,9 тыс.Год назад
The Prusa XL is Here! (and I need a bigger workbench)
Wireless Relays - An Easy Way to Add Droid Peripherals
Просмотров 1,2 тыс.Год назад
Wireless Relays - An Easy Way to Add Droid Peripherals
Charging Lithium Batteries and Why I Don't Bother Charging Them in Series
Просмотров 866Год назад
Charging Lithium Batteries and Why I Don't Bother Charging Them in Series
Can we answer "How long will my batteries last?"
Просмотров 1,2 тыс.Год назад
Can we answer "How long will my batteries last?"
7 Essential Mods for a 3D Printed Astromech
Просмотров 8 тыс.2 года назад
7 Essential Mods for a 3D Printed Astromech
Road Tripping with R2: Tips and What to Expect
Просмотров 2,2 тыс.2 года назад
Road Tripping with R2: Tips and What to Expect
R2 Electronics Build Part 7: Handling Regen Current and Wrapping Up
Просмотров 3,4 тыс.2 года назад
R2 Electronics Build Part 7: Handling Regen Current and Wrapping Up
Improving the MKIII Center Vent Assembly
Просмотров 6 тыс.2 года назад
Improving the MKIII Center Vent Assembly
R2 Electronics Build Part 6: Evolving the Prototype
Просмотров 3,3 тыс.2 года назад
R2 Electronics Build Part 6: Evolving the Prototype
R2 Electronics Build Part 5: No Back Door? No Problem!
Просмотров 3,1 тыс.2 года назад
R2 Electronics Build Part 5: No Back Door? No Problem!
R2 Electronics Build Part 4: Connecting the Dome
Просмотров 4,3 тыс.2 года назад
R2 Electronics Build Part 4: Connecting the Dome
R2 Electronics Build Part 3: Shadow+MD is Alive!
Просмотров 8 тыс.2 года назад
R2 Electronics Build Part 3: Shadow MD is Alive!
So glad I found this. I have my stuff all printed and my Vex Omni's showing up today. I really didn't want to use any 3D printed pins or axles and was trying to figure out what I needed to get.
Awesome! You will NOT regret going with the Vex Omnis. Best upgrade you can possibly get - absolutely worth it. Good luck!
Good video. These are much easier than the really tiny JST pins.
Love the card dispenser! Great idea!! :--)
They look great. Thanks for sharing.
1:38 Dalek Droid - _excellent_
That was one of my favorite custom droids!
I got stuck completely in my R2 electronics, my main drive motors don't let me take the orginal metal gear off - i wish those Droid Cons would be in a Galaxy more nearby...😅
Getting the gears off can be a pain. Sometimes heat helps. I picked up a gear puller, but IIRC, the gears actually broke when I used that. I eventually pried them off using a small crowbar. Hopefully you have other builders in your area that can lend a hand. Good luck - you'll get it.
@@jasonsR2D2 one is off already - I just kept use my metal saw and bang, there it goes after hours of despair 🤪🤪🤪
WOW that is so cool!
Missing a mouse droid with a roomba base.
Maybe one year my wife and I will make it.
It's absolutely worth the trip!
Awesome! Looked like so much fun! I’d love to be there to see all the droids!
The danger, of course, is that now there are about 3 or 4 droids I want to build next!
Thanks for putting this together Jason!
It’s funny, but going through the footage it’s true what they say - you make a point to take pictures of the droids but not so much the people!
I thought I took more pictures/videos than I did and when I go to look for a specific picture, I realize I never got just the exact one I was thinking of.
Nice work camera man! Thanks for the help yesterday!!!
Any time!
Way to get your geek on Jason. Looked like a lot of fun. I've been meaning to ask you how the Prusa XL has been working out for you? I have been drooling over the RatRig 500 X3 that was just released and think that might be my next printer. I would love to be able to print a dome in a single piece. I worked very hard on the seams of my R2, but they are starting to show through the paint and I haven't abused him at all.
The XL has been wonderful. Super reliable and has not given me any problems whatsoever. It's still not big enough to do a one-shot dome, though. For Bee I was able to join some of the body pieces together in the slicer and take advantage of the larger bed, so that was cool. So many great printer options these days, and printers are finally getting to the point where they are reliable and "just work". Seams remain our nemesis, though - after using the 2-part body filler for Bee's texture, I want to give that a try next time instead of the glazing putty. Seems a lot stronger and less brittle. Good luck!
Thanks for sharing Jason! Any chance Droidcon will ever come to Central Florida? I'd love to take my R2 out for a spin.
It's hard to say. I think they stick with Indianapolis because of it's slightly more centralized location, plus the hotel where we currently hold it is EXTREMELY accommodating to the builders so we've got a good thing going in that regard, too. Even if you can't swing bringing a droid along, it's totally worth the trip.
Jason. This is a fantastic video. One of the few that are out there that actually makes sense. Thank you for putting this together. Two questions for you.. 1- what is the length of the sliver rod for the large wheel? 2- what is the length of the 1/2 inch Thunderbolt vex shaft for the smaller wheels?
Thanks for the kind words! Unfortunately, I don't have easy access to R2s drives to measure, but the exact length for the main drive wheel isn't too critical - it needs to protrude out both sides enough to slide a lock collar on each end. I would guess the total length to be about 6 or 7". There's space between the drive and the foot shells for them to stick out a bit. The hex shaft is definitely a lot shorter - in the neighborhood of 3-4" (or less) if memory serves. You'll want to be somewhat precise with the hex shaft - you want the ends to sit JUST proud of the bearings at each end. This is so that when you add the large washers on each end, the axle keeps them from pinching down on the bearings. If the hex sits too low, you'll impede the spinning of the wheels, and if it sits too proud, you might get some slop. A grinder or belt sander can help you dial it in. I'll try and check soon and get back to you if my memory was way off! Good luck.
Looks great Jason, awesome work my friend. B2 is the perfect droid to 3D print. So much less work not having to worry about the layer lines. My R2 is covered in dust and i haven't even turned him on for months. You get so busy doing other projects. I need to take him outside and blow the dust off him. I was thinking of making an R5 "What IF" version next. I was going to give him a perfect factory finish and use a dark red metallic for the accent color with no blue parts. I'm in the process of making full Bo Katan armor and helmets for my daughter and granddaughter, so R5 will have to wait until winter most likely.
Thank you! It has been nice to not have so much sanding on this one. It's so easy to build up a backlog of projects - your R5 concept sounds awesome, but you can never go wrong with Bo Katan armor - I think hers is up there as one of my favorites. Good luck!
looks good
Thank you!
@@jasonsR2D2 your welcome
Awesome work! I'm in the 501st and wanting to get into droids. The B2EMO... awesome!!! Where can I start my journey or osnthere a group? I teach robotics and do all the 501st costumes stuff so it is a natural fir. Thanks for any info.
Thank you! The B2 files that I'm using are currently an "early bird" offering to Patrons of Michael Baddeley (www.patreon.com/mrbaddeley/). I believe you get access to the early bird files at the lowest ($1) membership tier. As it is an early bird offering, it's been tested, but refinement and updates are ongoing, so it's important to know that up front. Mr. Baddeley also has a very active Facebook group that you can join to see more of what the amazing community is doing. Another key resource is Astromech.net - the original home of the droid builders and a place where you can see other means of droidbuilding beyond 3D printing. Bee is not a simple build (full size droid builds are never "simple") and you should expect to have to do at least some improvising as you proceed with your build - even moreso on Bee than others. Your 501st experience is certainly a plus, but droid building is different in one significant way - there is no "wrong" way to build a droid, and it's perfectly acceptable to tailor your build to your desires, talents, skills and creative preferences. Mr Baddeley offers many other smaller-scale projects to Patrons as well that can serve as an excellent primer for a larger, more ambitious project. Hope this helps. Good luck should you start a build of your own. The world is always better when there's another droid to spread some happiness!
Thanks for sharing this video, very helpful. I used a 2.8mm drill bit to widen the hole of the middle-gear pin, so that the M3 bolt can get screwed in more easily.
Nice. Getting that screw all the way in can be very difficult. If you don’t have spare nuts or bearings to wrap around the outside to prevent splitting, then widening the hole is the best alternative. Thanks for the tip!
He looks so amazing! And the good news is, if he ever malfunctions, at least it will be in-character! :) I’ve enjoyed this series so much, even if I don’t understand it all. It’s awesome to see B2 come to life!
Thank you! He's already had his share of glitches - not all the kinks have been worked out, but he's definitely getting closer. Cheers!
How is he so cute already?? Great work, man!
Looking great! :D
Amazing work!
Excellent
Nice 😎😎
I've been putting magnets in my R2 for the last few weeks and I've done something very similar (leaving them in a stack, with one end marked). Glad to know I stumbled across the same technique as you!
I just started putting magnets on R2 to hold his dome on and wanted to find a better technique than the X. Thanks for sharing!
AWESOME TIP! And it actually works! Thank you!
Only thing I'd change is change tail current to 2.0%. Very cool project, I showed this to the rest of our tech support team here at Dakota Lithium.
Thanks so much for the insight! I'll be sure to make the change. I'm loving how the system turned out - the batteries have been rock-solid and the shunt gives that extra peace of mind. Cheers!
Need full video, looks great!
im doing version 2 this looks like version 3 i do believe
Yes, this is a MKIII body/shoulder hub. From what I know of the V2 hubs, they are single piece prints (so no captive nuts) and it's probably a bit trickier to know which one is which as they don't have the embossed labels like the MKIII hubs. Just remember that if the hubs are on backwards or on the wrong side, R2s legs will be angled much farther back!
@@jasonsR2D2 i started first before i joined the club i printed R2 dome its version 1 lol dont want to redo that one so i have version 1 dome version 2 body and legs and version 3 center leg its a masterpiece i tell ya lol and im still printing to finish it up just got dome lights and already got the lazy susan
Would it work to just put the diode on the line to the motor? Although you would remove the change to "charge" the battery when pushing him, it would also take away the chance for damage if you remove the batteries.
The worry with putting the diode there is the constant current load that it would be under during normal droid operation. The motors are the components that draw the highest current out of anything in a typical droid. Any diode in line between the motor controller and the motors themselves would need to be able to withstand the high current loads of the motors, and are not easily replaced should they fail at some point in the future. There is also the issue of forward voltage loss. All diodes have some degree of forward voltage loss that can vary based on the current. That also implies that any variances between diodes could result in slight speed differences between your motors. Relays are the best option for isolating the motors from the motor controller - as they are much better equipped to handle high current and do not introduce any variance to the signal being passed when the relay is closed. I've used relays in my new B2 build and I like the simplicity they provide.
I printed the speaker brackets but my m4 square nuts do not fit at all.
Did you use "thin" M4 nuts? Michael Baddeley's R2 files almost always require using nuts that are thinner than what is usually found at local hardware stores. Amazon has options for M4 square nuts that are only 2mm thick like these: www.amazon.com/200pcs-Square-Metric-Coarse-Thread/dp/B08CMG8F1K/ Hopefully that solves the problem for you.
@@jasonsR2D2 yeah it is not the thickness of the nut it is the length / height of them that is my issue.
So, looking at the models, the only places where the nuts really need to fit into the slots are the two side slots in AdapterBase.stl. For all the other locations, you could use slightly longer bolts and standard nuts and it will still hold everything together. I will try and find a time to revisit this and maybe tweak the tolerances, but I'm not sure when I will get around to it. As a last resort, maybe take a dremel to the nuts you have to get them to fit better? If they're the brass nuts, they are pretty soft and that should be a quick fix.
Great work! Just for future reference, it's Greeb-lees instead of greebles.
Indeed! Thanks for watching.
That paint texture really captures a story. Like an abused cheap car, I can see some previous owner too poor to get a beat-up droid repainted professionally and not knowing enough to do it properly themselves instead repaint their droid with house paint and a brush.
I love this! Yes! I imagine a big, thick, heavy brush with so much old paint encrusted on it, that it's impossible to apply a nice, even coat.
Great progress!
Thank you!
Well Done!!!!!! 👍
Excellent!
Looking really good!
Wow, this looks really good!
Great assembly video step by step - highly appreciated!!! Thank you Jason!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Hey I’m not too experienced in electronics but would this work for led light bars on a car I’m not using the cars power and it won’t be attached to the car itself but mounted on something that would come off and on the car
So, the general concept of a wireless relay sounds like it might be suitable for what you want. A relay DOES need a power supply, so if it's not connected to your car's 12v battery, then it would need to be powered by something - maybe separate batteries? For the inexpensive style of relay I show in this video, I would be concerned about their durability in an automotive installation, especially if your device is going to be installed anywhere on the exterior of the car, or near a place where it might get warm/hot. I think you could easily check hardware and/or auto parts stores for remote control relays and you'd probably find higher quality versions than this, but the overall operation should be similar to what I demonstrate here. Good luck with your project!
Looks good! Hope to see it at DroidCon if i decide to go. My R2 is still only a dome, but thought it would be good to see a few in person to help with my design decisions.
Definitely head to DroidCon if you can - very few things are as motivating as meeting fellow builders and seeing droids in person. R2, Bee and I will be there for sure. Hope you can make it!
hey that's more then me, I'm still in the planning stages.
great video
Hi Jason Thanks for great videos on building R2, I am Building R2 myself but the electrics are different to yours. My question to you is.. If you used the small slip ring, how is is wired up and where do they go. as I have the small slip ring but dont know how to connect the wires, where and what to. I have looked on line and on the droid builders site, but nothing. I know nothing about electronics, but a little bit about electric. Thanks
So the number of discrete connections you need (and where they go) will depend on your control system. If you're running power to the dome, that's two connections right away (+/-). Add to that whatever signals need to be provided between components in the body and dome. Shadow+MD requires one signal from the Arduino going INTO the dome master, and a second signal wire from the dome master back DOWN into the body to the MP3 trigger. So that means that I need a total of 4 connections. I'm not super familiar with Padawan, but I'm pretty sure it needs at least one signal going from the body to the dome. Not sure whether it needs a second signal or not. Once you know how many discrete connections you need, you can then decide how to allocate the multiple wires in your slip ring to accommodate that need. Signal wires carry very low current, so there's little reason to use more than one slip ring wire for each signal connection. So, setting aside two wires in my 12-wire slip ring for signal left me 10 wires for dome power. I simply divided them into 5 wires for positive voltage and 5 wires for ground. For each group of 5 wires (note which colors go together so you can do the same on both sides of the slip ring) simply strip the ends, then twist them together before crimping on the connector of your choice. At the end, you'll have a slip ring with 4 connectors on each side (or however many you determine you need for your setup) where the same colored wires are bundled together at each end. You can test continuity using a voltmeter just to be sure - touch the matching connectors at each end and hopefully you hear the tone. That is pretty much it for setting up the slip ring. After that, it's a matter of finding an easy and convenient means to connect/disconnect the dome - the MagTag is one option, but there may be others. Oh, and I mention this in another video, but it's important to reiterate - especially if you're going to use a smaller slip ring - you DEFINITELY want to pass full battery voltage into the dome and step down in the dome to 5v for your boards. You can look closely at the wiring in the dome at the end of this video - you can see the red/black wires go directly to the regulator, then out to each of the Marcduino boards. Good luck with your build!
Good explanation. In many parts of the world the term "Dupont" is not used. Usually these are called uninsulated terminals. I've even heard fold over terminals used to describe them.
I wasn't aware of that. Very interesting, thanks for sharing!
Just starting printing my R2 unit. Do you have an electronics parts list that you would like to share? Also if you had to change things what would you change. Thanks
Congrats on starting your build! Best of luck to you. In terms of electronics components, there's a huge variety depending on the control system you choose and my series of videos on my electronics build provides links to some of the things that I used (this was a very early video, and I don't provide much in terms of details here). My general advice would include: 1) If you need an Arduino, get a Mega ADK (even if it's a clone) instead of a 2560/USB host shield combo. Too many issues with the host shield. 2) Be careful of the inexpensive components available at Amazon, particularly the cheap servos and buck converters. The convenience is nice, but the quality is very hit or miss. Don't cheap out on the important parts. 3) Read, read, read. If you aren't a member at astromech.net, you should join. There is so much good information there. IMO, that's the best place to really learn about this stuff. You might have to dig a bit, but it's akin to learning to fish, rather than being given a fish (if you're familiar with the old saying). In terms of things I would change, honestly not much. I like that I sanded, painted, and assembled things as I went, rather than all at the end. I don't mind at all that I don't have a rear panel - I've found I don't really need it. I am happy with my electronics setup, even though I haven't expanded it as much as I thought I would. If having the small Shadow controllers weren't so important to me (and if Kyber were a thing when I built R2), then I might have gone with a Kyber-based, RC control system. I'm using that for B2 and REALLY like how easy it is to modify. I've still never touched the Marcduino firmware, and am starting to wonder if I ever will. The journey to completing a build is a long and often tedious one, but if you can manage to get to the end, and start taking R2 out and about, the reward is, well, to paraphrase Luke Skywalker, "More happiness than you can imagine."
@@jasonsR2D2 Thanks for the reply
Can you share this stage of the model?
The 3D print files are not my own design and I therefore cannot share them directly. They are available to Patrons of Michael Baddeley - details on joining can be found here: www.patreon.com/mrbaddeley/ This is still a "work in progress" design. Full instructions and finalized print files are still being developed. Overall it's been a challenging but fun build.
Has anyone tried to cast metal moulds for these leg greebles???
Your best bet for alternative greeblies is to check out the Parts Runs threads over at astromech.net. Both cast resin AND full aluminum parts are usually available. Be aware that most of the club-spec BODY-mounted greeblies (like power couplers, octagon ports, side vents, etc) WILL NOT work on a Baddeley printed body due to the thickness of the skin and differing internal geometry, but many of the leg greeblies - like the horseshoe buttons and hydraulics, the under shoulder details and even the ankle details likely would work just fine (basically anything surface mounted). I'm not sure on the leg cylinders.