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@@zeroeve I used a nylon lock nut. Prevents over tightening. Once it's snug you are good.

@@Nesrak both are pretty much straight forward swaps. Plenty of info if you Google it. What's more important is having the proper ECU/maf and supporting parts.

@@anthonywilliams7790 some of the area around the coil packs so that they sit lower in to the valve cover since the head is taller.

What spark plugs are you using for this

@@anthonywilliams7790 OEM NGK SR20VE plugs.

@@gpgaming2136 for what we do, we don't require forged engines.

@@tinman9341 thank you.

@@1208aa Tennessee

@@SR20DEEP I'm glad he was able to take care of you. This is why it's so important to make honest reviews of products! Leo is a stand up vendor and community member.

You're always welcome to ask..

@@blipshiftapex9047 I have a bone stock 92 se-r. 1 owner car down to the original title. It was mot well maintained. I came across a good deal on a ve. I do not have a ve harness or vs mass. I have matched up everything my de harness will work with. I have figured out how to wire upvthe vvl. The aac valve I do not have connection for. So can I use any of the de harness ecu mass or do I need to source all ve item ?

@@user-et3jr4co6f the Maf you use has to match the ECU you use. You will be using your stock harness to work with your VE. Everything pretty much is plug and play other than some heater hoses.

Thank you i thought I was on the correct track.

I would get in contact with Greg to verify. The shifter bushings I will be producing and selling directly myself. The Gizfab piece link is in the description.

You will want to contact him via Facebook. It's the fastest and easiest way to reach out to him

I try not to take myself too seriously 😂

If you upgrade the rear stabilizer bushing make sure you have upgraded motor mounts or very fresh ones as the motor rocking back and forth with a solid rear bushing can cause linkages to snap.

@@blipshiftapex9047 it's got poly mounts 😁

@@GameOfMorphs Fantastic. I will be coming out with delrin inserts for the OEM u-joint and shifter to make those who decide to keep the OEM shifter mod and just add that extra crispness to it.

@@blipshiftapex9047 hell ya

​@@blipshiftapex9047 would definitely be interested in these. Assuming you'll post in the group when they're ready?

Our content is best when consumed during bathroom breaks and lunch breaks I've been told 😂

@@blipshiftapex9047 100% Love your content and commitment to the B13's. Small world info incoming, Matt Farah reviewed my SE-R before Zack drove yours. Regardless, i'm glad to know there's a short shifter out there that's OEM+ like you mentioned, and don't need to get the GIZGAB part unless i want it.

@@rsbatcrh06 nice! I remember your One take. The Gizfab is definitely optional. For my preference and this car the L2 shifter with stock u-joint was best. I have delrin bushing replacements in the works for the stock u-joint to give that extra crispness but retain OEM parts soon.

You can't go wrong supporting a community member that makes these. 💪🏽

@@blipshiftapex9047 we might need someone to make rear caliper slide pins and boots.

@@Alexgoindoo21 those are still available new. Check rockauto.com

@@blipshiftapex9047 for some reason I’m not seeing them on rockauto.

@@Alexgoindoo21 you'll have to research online to find the part number and see if you can find them if rock auto doesn't have them

My excel sheet says close to 18k

With a USB cable.

@@blipshiftapex9047 u connect ur nissan oem ecu to laptop via USB cable?

@@sheltontyndale3475 the ECU is a programable ecu that has its own USB cord.

OEM Aztec red.

Now that sounds like a good plan!

Why would you want a less responsive pedal? If anything you can just a less aggressive pad. But I would never upgrade to a performance part to use OEM rubber lines.

It's since become a full track car. So I don't think m3 mirrors would make it any faster on track lol.

Check out the previous video where we detail the information on the header.

You can get them anywhere online. They are usually $60-80.

That would of been a hell of a deal

Want it yes, need it no. I'm fine with the car as is.

Going to Mexico will reduce your cost greatly. It can run you $2500-6000 depends on what you want and the quality you want.

It's up to you and your intended set up.

In the video you are seeing it under a 16"

I was 5 in 1989. So not all the way true.

The car has its original motor.

@@blipshiftapex9047 thought it was suppose to make 200 from stock

@@707DBC 205hp to be exact. If you didn't know that rating is at the crank. You lose horsepower through drivetrain as then the motor has to drive all the accessories bolted to it including the transmission called "drivetrain loss". The number usually used is about 15% drivetrain loss. That would mean the car really makes between 175-180hp to the wheels stock. Being that the car made 205hp to the wheels this would mean by the same rule it's more than likely around 235-240hp to the crank. This would be quite a large gain over stock.

You need to shut your mouth saying something as disgusting as that around me!

​@@blipshiftapex9047Amen brother!

Very close!

@@blipshiftapex9047 great numbers! Mine just made 208whp with 205k miles and automatic transmission.

@@tongtyyang that's awesome!

as long as u do 50 vtc gear and type s oil pump youll be set! Si gearing on a k24a is sooooooo good

It will be more than worth it. An FA5 is a superior vehicle by far. The 50 vtx and type a oil pump is definitely a good upgrade if you plan on road racing the car or really beating on it. Definitely cheap insurance.

I’m installing the 50 vtc, doing the timing chain, guides and the RRC oil pump. The car now is fun to drive and all it has is bolt ons and tuned.

Shorter gears, LSD, makes the car much more responsive. Makes the car completely different in a great way.

@@blipshiftapex9047 make a video about it

ASP3 is a HUGE upgrade however looking back I think I would’ve just got an 8th gen si trans and swapped the gears as it would’ve been cheaper

@@mailtsauce there is nothing much more to say about it. What I stated really sums it up.

@@etwoodson213 it would have been cheaper if you do the labor yourself and used "used" parts. Also in the end you would have shot yourself in the foot because the stock magnesium transmission of the TSX is trash when it comes to doing anything motorsports related. The main bearing inside wears down the case and eventually it fails when pushed hard.

Well then you better buy one because the saw has already been done and is slowly being done more and more here in the states.

Done all the time in Jamaica

@@jmarquis68 this is where I am seeing them much more regularly.

Never let the SR20 die, keep a Nissan a Nissan

@@billyjack5957 damn right

Unfortunately I don't own a CU2 Second gen TSX.

​@@blipshiftapex9047 I love your TSX Mr.BlipShift. I knew before the pulls you had around 200-205hp judging your ft.lb of torque. Nice Ride man.

@@keep_it_low_bro thank you. Much appreciated!

Absolutely not! Only if it was a full track car I didn't care about but even then I probably wouldn't.

Never hurts to find out.

@@blipshiftapex9047 through dyno test?

@@blipshiftapex9047 I am more interested in maximizing the mileage than HP. If it lasts to 1 million km, that would be ideal 😁

@@ronlam3654 well Dyno'ing is not all about horsepower. It really gives you a health status check as well.