Видео

Thanks for this! I really find smooth textureless polygond really charming to look at, but there's something even cooler at looking at these vector graphics on real sharp displays, and even today, despite technology advancing so much, nothing has really been able to surpass how clean these vector graphics look. I always wonder if we'll ever get some sort of successor to the long obsolete vector monitors, such as a vector based LCD screen. The closest I've seen are some light projectors that were trying to emulate these arcade games, and they look really good. And it's a shame the Vectrex was the only vector based console to ever come out. Though it's a no wonder they died out, as raster graphics can do basically everything that they can do, but in more complex detail. I think there's a hobbyist following for it nowadays. Do you know if there was ever a 3D platformer that was made with this vector technology?

Extraordinary that you know the value of all those resistors from memory!

Why would doing this show 123v dc, but running it on a tube shows the proper (and rock solid) 130v dc? I'm using a 60w incandescent on a 25" chassis.

What if 401 and 402 are both showing .6 voltage drop? Could that be enough to cause partial collapse? B+ right at 120

Smeggin awesome video Mike !

Seems arcing is going around. I've a Hantarex MTC900 which is arcing around the anode cup. Really nice purple sparks flying around it. Thankfully it's the cup has dried out and just need the leads replaced. Even got a local supplier here in Ireland. Keep up the great work.

Another great video sir. So be it. Ni! Ekki-ekki!

another one nice share thanx mike

So...Dropping this video now is perfect timing as I got one in to repair with this exact issue today. So thanks Mike! 😂

This question was kinda asked in another comment but I wanted to ask for some clarity. Is the B+ test done with L100 still disconnected and on the test bench, or connected back up and on the test bench?

Thank you Mike for the 20EZ video repair monitor. Was wondering when you would be doing one. Thanks again was excellent

Awesome repair! How would you obtain a LA1464 IC if you haven't got a room full of spare boards?

Thanks for all of your U5000 videos Mike. I just bought a Cruis'n USA cab and I'm about to take out the board and service it. The CRT doesn't power up at all, no hum. Thermal camera shows R100 getting warm and the Thermister at R121 getting really hot while the rest of the board is cold in comparsion. It's also clicking/ticking which is apparently a common issue. Should the clicking/ticking noise come from the area of the potentially bad HOT? Or would it be coming from the power supply region of the PCB? Because it is audibly coming from the power supply region. Hope to have some time next week to get the tube safely discharged and get the boards out/cleaned up. Not sure of any other way to see if this cab is going to work until I get the monitor functional. All I get on power on is a speaker pop and eventually a loud "bong" noise. I figure if I get the monitor working I can tell more.

<---Mike fixes CRT chassis for the LCD guru. I love it!

Look at the right leg of R101 (wire-wound resistor) at 19:29, you can see the leg is completely oxidized open on the component side. This chassis had an issue of wavy image until warmed up. You thought it was oxidized pads on the bottom, but I'm guessing you moved that leg just enough during reflow to push it back together to complete that circuit up top. I bet this soon will be an issue if it already hasn't happened. Love your work Mike!

Pet your doggy, he/she needs attention :) I can hear the nails clicking...

This monitor is next on my list after I finish my g07

These videos are great. I have a low B+ at about 115 with pot at max. I’ve changed the VR but when I do the diode test you show I get .29 instead of .18 on the brown/white wire leg of the VR. Am getting this on both VRs when in place. Thoughts on why that might be?

Just discovered your channel 👍! One question. The neck board on my 36' RCA CTC was knocked loose and now there's no picture! There's sound but the screen is black! Can it be repaired 🤷?

I have a 2702 that I've been struggling with. The person I got it from stored it under a tarp outside for years. Since I received It. It has been recapped , new flyback installed, all variable resistors changed and all ic chips have been replaced except the smps chip and the neck board chip. The B+ pot is turned all the way down and won't go below 115 vdc. D107 measures 115 vdc, D107 reads 24.5 vdc. The heater pin on the neck reads 4 vdc and should be 6.3 vdc. Any thoughts?

Great troubleshooting!

This 20EZ Looks way nicer and sharper than any of the ones I've seen in person, thanks for all the wisdom as always!

If I have all colors but the red is way over driven even if I back it down to zero, you think it's the 1203 chip? Tube is okay with another chassis. TPG is ok too

What make model stripper and crimper are you using?

Thanks for this video, it helped me lock in my horizontal centering for the K4600.

I'm surprised that nobody has made a laser or some sort of technology to help negate screen burn.

Great work. On that second chassis when you were looking at the area where those three color transistors were, it looked like a little orange capacitor with a black dot on it at the C1 location had a leg that wasn't soldered in. Also, the bipolar electrolytic capacitor that I think is location C4 looked like one of its legs wasn't completely soldered in. I could be mistaken, but your video briefly showed those areas pretty closely. Cheers!

Why this is an awesome video good sir simply awesome, may I ask have you ever worked on NEO GEO MVS BOARDS before if not how about a video of one, cheers good sir have a blessed day and stay safe and may you and your family have a spectacular weekend ahead good sir

Ian's cap kits were very good quality caps. He used the best caps. Yes, the amps are equivalent to the originals. You will look up the part number and they should tell you were they go for replacement. If you can't find it let me know and I can look on my 20EZ sound board to tell you the positions.

This video was sooooo good :) Thank you sir.

Hi Mike! How do I get in touch with you for a repair? I’ve got a buzzing from an MK2 sound board that needs some work.

Smeggin awesome repair Mike !

I'm getting ready to recap a 20EZ myself next week. I also have the Sharp sister monitor to do, so this video is perfect timing. I wonder if the chassis can crack easily? Maybe I should use just one hand :)

Good solder joints look like a classic Hershey kiss still in the wrapper 😃

I downloaded the autogenerated RUclips subtitles for this video and did a simple word search for " so "... 153 times you said 'so' according to that file.

I neve reassemble for a test on these. Remove the back box and right strap arm and the yoke wires are long enough to reach off the frame. Don’t need audio or degauss connected to test. I bow to your superior experience but its definitely not necessary for a full build to test.

I forgot to re-test the B+ on camera after all the repairs but it was 107.8vdc, so there was no need to re-adjust it. But that's ok. The part of the video regarding the Light Bulb test showed how to do that if need be. Sorry about that.

Just got one of these up and running. and the factory preset is on screen (the menu for screen options to adjust picture etc) daughter board is not responding. Tried 2 of the same daughter boards

Hi. I wondering if you would be able to help me. I have the exact same problem on my Hantarex Polo 28. Possibly the ghosting is a little worse on my monitor. I also have the colour and brightness being darker to the left-hand gradually getting brighter towards the right, same as yours. I have tried replacing resister R36 with no success. Is there any other resistor/part I can check or change. I wish I could just buy a working neck board, but I am unable to locate any here in the UK using the usual forums and sites. Many thanks in advance and thank you for all the informative videos.

👍another 5 star repair

Great video as always!! Love your channel and have learned so much. Yes you should start a donation tab so we can send our thanks! Learned so much from watching your channel don’t feel bad. It’s a ton of work to film all this and edit it etc. keep up the great work -Mark

Impressive as always Mike! What temperature do you recommend for your soldering iron?

This comment is unrelated to these great vids, but I just wanted to say I think it's noble of you to do all these just to help the arcade community and not have your hand out like so many ebeggers on RUclips. It's also nice to be able to watch them from start to finish without being interrupted by a commercial every 2 minutes. I do however plan to patronize your business one day, the place looks amazing! Thanks and keep up the great work spreading your knowledge!