In hindsight, I probably should have checked the B+ on the resistor above the regulator, just like you do on a K7000 since this appears to not be a chassis that allows you to adjust the B+, but the method I used at least appears to be a valid test. I’ll try measuring on the resistor when I fix the other one.
I collected pins for several years before buying my first vid, a T2 from an arcade auction. It was a dead game so it was cheap. Opened the back and found the monitor chassis on laying on the bottom. It was the same MTC 9110. Caps were shot, the relay for the degaussing coil was melted and the flyback was cracked. Everything was replaced including the games power supply which was gone. I worked on this thing on and off for a couple of years and could not get any high voltage and the fan would not run. I finally traced the problem to that little board that clips to the side of the chassis. The pressure from the clips caused the board to crack and severing two large traces on the back. Repaired the traces and sure enough it powered up. I sure wish repair videos like this one were available back when I worked on it. I would have had it repaired in no time,
Great video! Also perfect timing since I just picked up an MTC 9110 chassis myself that I’m planning to fix up this weekend, so at least now I kind of know what to expect. I haven’t even tried powering it up yet, but it was sold as “non-working” so I’m not expecting much. I’m hoping between the cap kit and new flyback I ordered I’ll be able to get it working, though I’m *really* hoping I don’t actually need to change the flyback for the reason you demonstrated. Can’t wait to see your next MTC 9110 video!
Good video! As someone from the UK, it's always nice to see a chassis that's more common here than some of the others (although WG K7000 etc. are common here also). I've seen/worked on loads of these and the MTC9000 (these run 'A34' 14" and 'A48' 20" crts) over the years. One thing I would say is that i've never ever seen a 9110 with one of those booster block things by the fan, no matter what cab the chassis was from. Must be something only seen on the USA version. No B+ pot but B+ should be 130v, certainly on the Euro version, USA might be different. The power connector is standard USA on yours, on the Euro version they use a 4 way green connector same design as the yoke connector, with 2 pins for 128v for the deflection circuit and 230v/240v on the other 2 pins for the degauss circuit, with a fuse for each circuit (and the same type 6 way socket as the yoke connector for the RGB input). The degauss push button is simply a manual button usually for cabs which have a rotating bezel. Pretty much never seen it used. HV caps are a fairly common problem in these and Polo/Polo2/Polostar chassis - good quick way on these to test if you've got a HV cap problem is to turn down the horizontal sync to minimum - if it powers up you've got a bad HV cap - doesn't work every time though! I've got a USA version MTC9110 with a similar bodge to the pincushion board, not sure what it does as the Euro version doesn't use it (the bodge that is, not the pincushion board - they use those!), and all it did was cause width/pincushion problems when hooked up to my 'A59' 25" Videocolor test crt - maybe the USA A63/A68 RCA crt they use is different on the yoke? You can get MTC9000 chassis with both the contrast levers and contrast pot, just different revisions. The upright board with the little transformer is a deflection matching transformer, as basically the chassis is a modified MTC9000 made to run a larger crt. The thing with the red wires screwed to the heatsink is a temperature sensor. I've had those cause problems occasionally. In fact, i've had a MTC9000 (10" version) run with a bad regulator before! The image was distorted but it ran. One thing I was wondering, have you not got a flyback tester? I have a HR flyback tester, very handy bit of kit. I need to get a different one to test flybacks used in vga/mutisync chassis such as the Hantarex Polostar. Luckily i've still got plenty of HR7025 and HR7107 flybacks same as the originals (most originals were Eldor, though yours is a HR I believe), saves chopping the heatsink about! Can I ask where you got the spare white pot adjusters for the vertical position pot? Probably at least 75% of the adjustment boards i've seen has those snapped off! Sorry for the lengthy post! Merry Christmas to you!
Hi Mike, you are really on top, congratulations. Can you please tell me how you determine compatibility with an electronic and a crt tube? Hi, thank you very much for everything.
Merry Christmas Mike! Off topic for this chassis but I had a K7000 yesterday with no neck glow and your KLOV post of replacing that film cap w the electrolytic at C204 fixed it! So can confirm that is a thing! Man did I bang my head on the table for a long time trying to find the issue…
I literally just got a machine with this monitor in it. I haven't tested it yet but I'm expecting issues with it since it's a hanterex. Looking forward to watching. Thanks. Merry Christmas Mike!
I had a Hakko desoldering gun and an Aoyue clone and they were both awful. Clogged like crazy and absolute pain to fix. A year ago I picked up a PACE MBT 301 and the SX-100 handpiece in good used condition on ebay and it's absolutely worth it. WAY stronger vacuum and shorter tips, lighter and more ergonomic to use. The PACE stuff is actual pro-grade stuff, and if you keep your eye out, you can score a really good deal on used surplus.
Hola, muchas gracias por toda la información que te he proporcionado. Tengo un gabinete con un monitor Hantarex 9110. los colores son buenos Pero tengo un problema: hay pequeñas explosiones en la pantalla que se notan e inquietan cuando se mira de cerca. Hice un video para explicar el problema. ruclips.net/user/shortsEvEF_RArXTQ?si=lIdx4fkatM5_v0Mi ¿Qué crees que podría ser? ¿Has tenido alguna experiencia con esto antes?
Hello, thank you very much for all the information I have provided you. I have a cabinet with a Hantarex 9110 monitor. the colors are good But I have a problem: there are small explosions on the screen that are noticeable and disturbing when you look closely. I made a video to explain the problem. ruclips.net/user/shortsEvEF_RArXTQ?si=lIdx4fkatM5_v0Mi What do you think it could be? Have you had any experience with this before?
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In hindsight, I probably should have checked the B+ on the resistor above the regulator, just like you do on a K7000 since this appears to not be a chassis that allows you to adjust the B+, but the method I used at least appears to be a valid test. I’ll try measuring on the resistor when I fix the other one.
Smeggin awesome repair, Merry Christmas Mike !
I love your long videos. I get bummed when you only post those 15 minutes videos haha.
I collected pins for several years before buying my first vid, a T2 from an arcade auction. It was a dead game so it was cheap. Opened the back and found the monitor chassis on laying on the bottom. It was the same MTC 9110. Caps were shot, the relay for the degaussing coil was melted and the flyback was cracked. Everything was replaced including the games power supply which was gone. I worked on this thing on and off for a couple of years and could not get any high voltage and the fan would not run. I finally traced the problem to that little board that clips to the side of the chassis. The pressure from the clips caused the board to crack and severing two large traces on the back. Repaired the traces and sure enough it powered up. I sure wish repair videos like this one were available back when I worked on it. I would have had it repaired in no time,
I had one of these with vertical collapse before and the fix was to replace the TDA1675. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Merry Christmas sir. Thank you for what you do.
Nice to see a differrnet chassis type repair.
Great video! Also perfect timing since I just picked up an MTC 9110 chassis myself that I’m planning to fix up this weekend, so at least now I kind of know what to expect. I haven’t even tried powering it up yet, but it was sold as “non-working” so I’m not expecting much. I’m hoping between the cap kit and new flyback I ordered I’ll be able to get it working, though I’m *really* hoping I don’t actually need to change the flyback for the reason you demonstrated. Can’t wait to see your next MTC 9110 video!
merry christmas mike! great video
Merry Christmas to you!
Good video! As someone from the UK, it's always nice to see a chassis that's more common here than some of the others (although WG K7000 etc. are common here also). I've seen/worked on loads of these and the MTC9000 (these run 'A34' 14" and 'A48' 20" crts) over the years. One thing I would say is that i've never ever seen a 9110 with one of those booster block things by the fan, no matter what cab the chassis was from. Must be something only seen on the USA version. No B+ pot but B+ should be 130v, certainly on the Euro version, USA might be different. The power connector is standard USA on yours, on the Euro version they use a 4 way green connector same design as the yoke connector, with 2 pins for 128v for the deflection circuit and 230v/240v on the other 2 pins for the degauss circuit, with a fuse for each circuit (and the same type 6 way socket as the yoke connector for the RGB input). The degauss push button is simply a manual button usually for cabs which have a rotating bezel. Pretty much never seen it used. HV caps are a fairly common problem in these and Polo/Polo2/Polostar chassis - good quick way on these to test if you've got a HV cap problem is to turn down the horizontal sync to minimum - if it powers up you've got a bad HV cap - doesn't work every time though! I've got a USA version MTC9110 with a similar bodge to the pincushion board, not sure what it does as the Euro version doesn't use it (the bodge that is, not the pincushion board - they use those!), and all it did was cause width/pincushion problems when hooked up to my 'A59' 25" Videocolor test crt - maybe the USA A63/A68 RCA crt they use is different on the yoke? You can get MTC9000 chassis with both the contrast levers and contrast pot, just different revisions. The upright board with the little transformer is a deflection matching transformer, as basically the chassis is a modified MTC9000 made to run a larger crt. The thing with the red wires screwed to the heatsink is a temperature sensor. I've had those cause problems occasionally. In fact, i've had a MTC9000 (10" version) run with a bad regulator before! The image was distorted but it ran. One thing I was wondering, have you not got a flyback tester? I have a HR flyback tester, very handy bit of kit. I need to get a different one to test flybacks used in vga/mutisync chassis such as the Hantarex Polostar. Luckily i've still got plenty of HR7025 and HR7107 flybacks same as the originals (most originals were Eldor, though yours is a HR I believe), saves chopping the heatsink about! Can I ask where you got the spare white pot adjusters for the vertical position pot? Probably at least 75% of the adjustment boards i've seen has those snapped off! Sorry for the lengthy post! Merry Christmas to you!
Great info! Thanks! Merry Christmas to you!
Hi Mike, you are really on top, congratulations. Can you please tell me how you determine compatibility with an electronic and a crt tube? Hi, thank you very much for everything.
Merry Christmas Mike! Off topic for this chassis but I had a K7000 yesterday with no neck glow and your KLOV post of replacing that film cap w the electrolytic at C204 fixed it! So can confirm that is a thing! Man did I bang my head on the table for a long time trying to find the issue…
Great! Merry Christmas to you!
I literally just got a machine with this monitor in it. I haven't tested it yet but I'm expecting issues with it since it's a hanterex. Looking forward to watching. Thanks. Merry Christmas Mike!
Merry Christmas to you!
I had a Hakko desoldering gun and an Aoyue clone and they were both awful. Clogged like crazy and absolute pain to fix. A year ago I picked up a PACE MBT 301 and the SX-100 handpiece in good used condition on ebay and it's absolutely worth it. WAY stronger vacuum and shorter tips, lighter and more ergonomic to use. The PACE stuff is actual pro-grade stuff, and if you keep your eye out, you can score a really good deal on used surplus.
Good to know. Thanks!
Hola, muchas gracias por toda la información que te he proporcionado.
Tengo un gabinete con un monitor Hantarex 9110.
los colores son buenos
Pero tengo un problema: hay pequeñas explosiones en la pantalla que se notan e inquietan cuando se mira de cerca.
Hice un video para explicar el problema.
ruclips.net/user/shortsEvEF_RArXTQ?si=lIdx4fkatM5_v0Mi
¿Qué crees que podría ser? ¿Has tenido alguna experiencia con esto antes?
Hello, thank you very much for all the information I have provided you.
I have a cabinet with a Hantarex 9110 monitor.
the colors are good
But I have a problem: there are small explosions on the screen that are noticeable and disturbing when you look closely.
I made a video to explain the problem.
ruclips.net/user/shortsEvEF_RArXTQ?si=lIdx4fkatM5_v0Mi
What do you think it could be? Have you had any experience with this before?