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Hi Helen! Thank you for your kind words and warm greetings to my Australian friends :)) Even if a terrestrial mix sounds a bit "off", my advice would be to keep it as is. When you repot a plant, it is like a person moving to a new home: it is stressful, you need to adjust to changes etc... For an orchid, when you change the type of medium it grows in, you add an extra layer of stress as the roots need to adjust to a new environment, especially when it comes to moisture retention. So if your orchid currently grows well and is happy, just keep the same medium as repotting in itself is stressful enough. Please remember that bifoliate Cattleyas (bowringiana is now called Guarianthe rather than Cattleya but that is semantics: it is a Central American Cattleya basically) are very sensitive to repot timing. You should only repot if you currently have active new root growth... and don't damage the new roots. Best of luck with your beautiful plant. Olivier

@@orchidhouse Thanks so much for the advice Olivier. It certainly is a beautiful orchid and the fragrance is just out of this world. Kind regards, Helen

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I am very happy to hear this! Thank you so much !

Cycnodes can bloom on leafless bulbs. If the bulb is hard and plump I would not water it. If it is not real hard, you can give a good soaking but do not water regularly. Thanks you for your kind words!

Hi! I am not familiar with Dendrobium pendulum but I looked it up in the "Baker & Baker" book on Dendrobium and they recommend * lots of light even full sun. I would try with a bit less light at first to see how it does in your environment but if no bloom = not enough light * lots of water during growing season but drastically reduce watering in winter Good luck!

Thank you! I will give it a try 😊

Greetings to my Aussie friends :) Yes all good here. We live 400 km SE of Tampa and had no damage. Thank you for your concern!

That is very kind of you. We live in Ft Lauderdale which is 400 km SE of Tampa and had no damage at all. Also thank you for being a fan of my channel. Greetings to NIPPON :))

@@orchidhouse I appreciate your quick response and kindness for teaching me thoroughly. What a relief! Thank you thank you.

Thank you very much for your input! In the mean time I bought one from Orchid Krub (Thailand) and NT Orchids from Malaysia also carries it. Thanks again!

Yes definitely. It is 63% Vanda coerulea which likes cold nights. You should be good to go for your San Diego winter nights in the low 40's It also has 32% of V. sanderiana which is the opposite: the least cold tolerant of them all. So this cross should be very tolerant of a wide range of temperatures!

Hi Tom, Frankly I do not advocate the mounting of Stanhopeas. I am giving it a try but they are hard to keep hydrated like that. As to your Stan tricornis, if it is anthracnose, I would try Pageant on them. It may also be that you should adjust the watering. I recommend a really good soaking but then let them dry out out barely (if new growth) and just approach dryness if advanced growths. Monitor the base of the new bulbs. they should get hard and gradually plump up. If they remain soft, it might be that they don't get enough water. I believe it may explain some of those behaviors where new growths systematically abort. Keep me posted

Thanks Olivier. I will try both the Pageant on the anthracnose and your new watering regime. I’ll be in touch.

Greetings to England and to you Howard and thank you for your kind words. Thrips are a real bane. I spray proactively every 5 or 6 days all my buds (exception for Oncidiums who are less affected from what i can tell) and I alternate orthene and conserve (spinosad) because if you use the same product over again, bugs develop resistance.

@@orchidhouse Thanks. I thought that might be the case. The problem in Europe is that all the chemicals that you could spot treat really difficult pests have been withdrawn from sale.

Thank you!

LOL. Thank you!

Not certain but it should be widely available. The pink form is the most common one.

I fertilize those mounted Cattleyas only ONCE a week. That is plenty and some that are semi-dormant over the winter, I pause the fertilizing during that time

Thank you for your kind words! I don't have a specific name of a vendor but Phal. equestris is not rare. If you go to Orchid Shows, you should find it. Most are in the pink or purple hues though. My color (cyanochila) is less common.

I would not repot as it seems they are in a recovering stage? I don't understand how they can have long leaves and no roots, especially if leaves are already yellowing. I could not find your previous description of the issue. I remember somewhat the discussion we had but I think you posted it on a different video??? So I apologize but it is a bit hard for me to give an adequate response. If your bulbs are plump, your plants should be able to withstand long periods of drought. I would withhold water if there are no roots. You can send me pictures at OlivierFTL@gmail.com. I will delete this email address within 24 hours though.

This orchid's spike will not rebloom. So you cut it off at the base.

New Zealand Tree Fern

Thank you! This is a video I made on mounting orchids ruclips.net/video/7H97DOFTfus/видео.html These are 2 videos I made on caring for Phalaenopsis ruclips.net/video/6P3mY58lYoQ/видео.html ruclips.net/video/7nI_zHLC-Os/видео.html

How did it lose roots during transportation?? Did they get damaged and broke off partially? If so, I would spray hydrogen peroxide on every wound. That is not acceptable by the way.... You can try using root hormone products to stimulate root growth but as long as the existing roots are strong and active, I would just give it plenty of water. you can also use seaweed extract once a month. If the plant is stressed out and or weak, I would NOT put it in direct sunlight until you feel like it is happy again (new roots, new leaves...). I will not bloom but your first course of action right now is to get back on track. Blooming is the next step. then you can put it in strong light.

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If new growths appear in summer and there is no active bulb with leaves, I would just treat the plant as a dormant plant and withhold watering entirely and start watering the plant only when the new growths and roots are the right size (like 10 cm). I have plants (especially imported form Brazil which lies in the southern hemisphere with seasons upside down) who have their lifecycle upside down and they are doing fine. The problem you have is that the backbulbs that are supposed to sustain the dormancy with no water (their plumpness is due to water reserve) are severely dehydrated. This means the plant may not survive dormancy. My recommendation: give the plant a good soaking (let it soak overnight for 10 hours) and then withhold water entirely for 2 weeks. The backbulbs should plump up. If they don't plump up enough, repeat every 2 weeks. If the backbulbs don't plump up at all, the plant will likely die. Good luck!

When the Catasetums are in growing mode (new bulbs that are around 10 cm high with roots around 10 cm long), they should remain moist the whole growing season until their leaves turn yellow. So if you live on a dry island, you need to water them every day.

Excellent question! I don't have an answer. I have a few dendrobiums with black spots on the canes and it seems that when I reduce watering, new canes have less or none, but I have not yet been able to treat existing black spots. The Dendrobiums with black spots do not seem to be affected: blooming or growth are the same

I would recommend waiting until you get new roots

Welcome to the orchid world :))))

I'm sorry but it is tough to diagnose diseases, especially just by a description. Mine has also bursts of leaves dropping and there are black areas on the stem but then new stems grow from it. I would advise patience and give it time and keep on treating if it seems to be working. It may come back. Good luck :)

I would not use tree fern on Phals but it should work nevertheless. I grow my Phals on the dry side. I always let them dry out in between watering.

That is a very nice compliment :))) Thank you very much!

Wonderful! Good luck!

Thank you!

Not sure what you mean by "the voice is a bit slow" but welcome back. I have been posting regularly.

@@orchidhouse volume

Sorry about that.....Now you really have to go get one LOL

@@orchidhouse definitely..!! Hahaha!!

@@petrichor7121 it is REALLY fragrant!

Good to know about hybrid vigor for primary species! I do not breed orchids myself and I have zero experience in doing so. Like you, I have not found articles that describe at length what genes are dominant and which are recessive but occasionally one article will mention that this or that color (yellow e.g.) from a species will dominate etc... I think I read that coerulea is a recessive gene??? Not sure if it is true across all genera though. I did notice that terete orchids will always (?) generate terete offsprings when crossed with non-terete leaved plants. I think if you are interested in the subject, you will have to compile notes and after months or years you could have a list of interesting information on the subject.

@@orchidhouse There, you said it: this information has to be patiently and painstakingly dug out of hard cold stone, if we want to know anything. It wouldn't amount to a very expensive research project if the pros released their notes with variation percentage numbers in their offspring for some people with some code writing and probabilistic skills to come up with lots and lots of good science. But I have never seen that happen. Much the less, whatever research there is, is never made public. I know it is quite complex... For example, blues are said to be a result of flower Ph in some cases. That means you'll be selecting for Ph, after all, not for a different pigment... But I love the subject and the lack of information gets me so frustrated!

@@Naturamorpho I hear you ! It is also probably because they don't want to share "trade secrets" LOL.

No dilution

Many different sources but the 2 main ones are Sunset Valley Orchids (SVO) in San Diego, California and BelaVista in Brazil (owner Antonio Schmidt)

Mine has just rebloomed with 2 spikes and a few flowers have difformities. To be investigated..... I am not sure why this is happening. Thank you for your input!