Thank you so much for the smell information. I'm a disabled leather crafter who needs to avoid products with intense smells, so details like that really save me money (and save me from scent-exposure symptoms) by helping me know what to avoid buying. Unfortunately it's also very rare for content creators to include that kind of info in videos, so I really appreciate that you did.
Thank you so much - I appreciate the money and time it took to put this together. I'm just getting started in leatherwork and this helped me figure out what to purchase.
Thank you for this comparison. I would like to see this same test done on pieces of dyed leather so we can see the affect they have as a finish coat on a completed project as opposed to the pieces of natural leather. Great video regardless.
Great video Ian! I play with these too. I dye first - try to spray it for evenness of color. Then use either carnauba, atom wax, or netsfoot to condition the leather. Then the top dressing: Tan Kote (it is ok but not water resistant), Tandy Leather Factory Satin Sheen (pretty good water resistance), or Resolene (my favorite for the reasons you showed). I also use Resolene for a dye blocker in a design. It needs to dry overnight to be really effective - as most of the other top dressings do. And thanks again for a good video. Joe
Perfect description! I always was kinda confused why the companies don't provide more detailled information on their products, especially Fiebings. Following your video I could succesfully narrow down the possible uses of finishes for certain products. Thank you very much!
Hey Ian, I started working leather about 6 months ago. I'm doing it as a hobby, making little things for friends and family for free, just to get experience with leather. I have always loved leather and have a friend started working with leather about ten years ago. I just wanted to say thank you for all that you have shared. A lot of your videos I've watched more than once. I've learned a lot from your videos because you freely share your knowledge and experience. I'm working with leather because I love everything about it. I'm an "All or none" person. I don't how to half step at anything I do. I'm either good at something or I don't do it. I'm 55-year-old, a student of traditional Karate since I was 10, a cop and a biker for 25 years. Again, just wanted to say thanks for helping out an "older" man explore his love for leather. If I'm able to turn a buck(pound) or two in the process that would be great. If I can ever return the favor, don't hesitate to ask. Dragon United Road Runner M/C Bronx NY
Thanks for the video, as you said at the beginning, it can be quite tricky to figure out which finish is the best when so many people have different opinions. Thanks for all the other videos you do, I really appreciate them.
I just want to say thank you for making so many videos. I wish the leathercraft suppliers would do more. A lot of people are getting electronic tablets these days. I have been trying to come up with a truly, universal, fully adjustable cover. I personally think that a cover that could be moved from one tablet to the next would be a great seller. The covers you buy fall apart in a few months. And I dont think to many people would be willing to pay for a custom cover when they will probably replace there device in a few years. If you have any ideas you would be willing to share I would personally love to see them.
one product I highly recommend is chap wax. designed for waterproofing leather riding chaps. thick sticky beeswax based stuff. leather boots will not soak through with it. Ive started using it over a coat of mink oil to finish knife sheaths. looks feels and smells great, and water beads right off. not too easy to find though, I had to order it from a horse packing supplier in the states. by far the best ive found though
I used to exercise race horses on the track and the tack would be subject to sweaty horses and dirt on a daily regular basis and the daily cleaning of the tack we would use a strong solution of Murphy's Oil Soap and water and says it up real good and it would always polish up nice the tack would have a sheen on it of course when it was new but it kept it kept the Saddles very beautiful. Have you ever tried Murphy's Oil Soap? Generally for wood floors that smells lemony and wonderful
I don't use gum trag as a finish but I do use it to lock down the nap on the inside/back of pieces. To make it do it's job though, it needs to be burnished like you would do on for an edge finish.
Thank you so much. Im very newbie but helped me immensely. going to finish my project now and see what happens. Im doing a black axe sheath so I dont care about discoloration. Thanks for your testing time and posting. I got a draw knife and then a head knife and after that will prolly be on knife sheaths mostly. Maybe a few holsters later one I figure out some things.
Thanks, Ian! I've been looking to compare resolene with bag kote and tan kote, to make a purse for my wife. I'm looking for a moderately matte finish, and one coat of resolene seems to get there. 2 coats seems to get a little too glossy. I really appreciate the comparison in this, as well as your other videos.
Thank you very much for taking the time to provide such in-depth information. You‘re a great teacher! I am new to leathercraft, and find it very therapeutic as it calms the racing mind.
Have you ever used Obenauf's ? It is designed by American Woodland fire fighters made over here in the states. It has a bee's wax and tree resin mix. Smells like bee's wax and cinnamon. It has done a wonderful job water proofing my boots.
+Gergg meister I have looked into getting some but the price of shipping to the UK is at best high to extortionate, ie what is $18 in the USA, costs $140 in the UK that does include shipping.
Tan coat is used for saddles. Saddles have to be able to absorb oils and conditioners. So the finish really just needs to keep the dye from getting on your breeches. Resolene might be great for sheaths and holsters. But it will destroy a saddle over time
Thank you for having the smell test included- I think one of the things that makes leather attractive is the smell - I haven’t seen any other reviews mention this about various products. Love your channel!
Honestly, all of fiebings products work amazing. Although, I prefer tankote because it doesn't change the color of the leather as much as the others and it doesn't leave the leather as stiff as the acrylic finishes. I also don't like a high gloss on my products. Just my two cents. Awesome vid dude.
HI IAN i leave in Berlin Germany i been watching your videos with so much interest and passion i don t need to say that all your work is simply ART with a toutch of Magic and perfect with Harmony and love you work the leather...(sorry for my poor English) i wonder if you could do a video were you can show which product do you use after you color/Dye your work to make it look so beautiful shiny or matt i mean the leather have at the beginning a natural color and look... what do you use to make it look so beautiful when is finish? what product first and which one on the end do you use? I am a very very beginner and i fall in love with the work you do, ThanK YoU in advance , T2H
Neatsfoot oil is made from the hooves of neat cattle: Neat cattle is old terminology for domesticated cattle (as opposed to wild cows ? , well, , , maybe they existed many years ago). Many thanks for the video, you picked up a new subscriber.
Ian I wish that you did a dye then compared finishes. Can you add an oil then an acrylic or because you have added an oil like neets foot then you have to add an oil based finish??? What about animal fat???
Thank you so much for doing these videos! I have been using Resolene for a while and I like it as a finish -- I was very happy to see it "win" for water resistance. :-) It does seem to stiffen the leather a bit though, so I think I will try Neatsfoot or Carnauba Creme underneath the Resolene, to make the leather more supple for cuff bracelets. (I have tried using a leather conditioner over the dye and under the Resolene, and the conditioner did a little but not much for suppleness.) Do you have a favorite product for increasing suppleness in particular (that would also allow a Resolene topcoat)? Thanks!
I would like to see the results of a coat of neatsfoot etc., covered with the resolene. Never mind, I think I will try some combinations and see how they come out.
Very well put together, a bit long. As you mentioned not all of these are ment for a finish on the leather peice. However they all serve a different effect. For example your winner is a perfect finish, because it actually seals the leather being made from plastic resin the acrylic resonlene. Neetsfoot oil, however is a restorative to renew, soften and extend the leathers life, may offer some water resistance being an oil but not much. It is made from the cow's leg, ft not hoof all natural oil.
Hello, your video was very helpful, however as a beginner in the craft, I would love to see start to finish of dying, conditioning, & a good finish that would keep the leather soft, shiny, and water resisted. Thanks Again
Great Video. Any advice on finish that will not change color? Making bracelets dyed with Fiebings Pro Dye. I let them dry for days. I test them by letting them set in water to see if they bleed dye. 50% of the time they do. The matte finish that the leather is after dyeing is great but it changes after using resolene (color and gloss) Any tips would be greatly appreciated.
Hi Ian! Nice videos, thanks for being such a great help to anyone who plans trying leathercraft. I'd like to ask if dyeing the leather sort of works as a finish to the leather as well? Like making it waterproof/shiny at the same time as coloring it? Thanks!
You can mix 6% of Fiebing’s Leather Dye with 94% Fiebing’s Prime Neatsfoot Oil Compound. Apply as usual to unfinished, veg, tanned leather and allow to dry. After that, you can buff and seal with Resolene. You can use Edge Cote for the edges. It comes in different colours.
Hi, looks like I found your video just in time :) I'm renewing old saddle. It was once black. I've degreased it, then used neatsfoot oil. Next day I've painted it with black eco-flo waterstain, let it dry buffed and oiled with kieffers' oil (Ingredients: white oil, derm oil , bees wax, turpentine oil and perfume). The question is: considering the paint was water based should I use degreaser before applying the finish or not? I use Super shene finish from eco-flo. I'm thinking now of resolene but I wonder how resistant it is to rubbing.
Great video thanks! Best comparison I've seen! What do you recommend for leather work gloves? I'd like to use something that'll keep them soft but help protect and make cleaning easier! Thanks!
Let’s just say yogurt. LOL I’ve been using Eco-Flo Satin Sheen for years. I’m not fond of high gloss finish. I’ve read you can buff the Resolene from a medium gloss to a high gloss. I might give it a try to compare with what I use. The repelling of water in your video was excellent. Thanks for the video.
Thank you so much! I am looking at re-dying / darkening some leather tack. If I use acetone to strip wax & clean & open the pores for the new dye, can you tell me if I need to re-apply a finish like Resolene? Or will the finish resist removal by acetone?
HI Ian, Great video..thank you so much! I have learned a lot from your videos. I am new to this craft and am enjoying it a lot. So much to learn! So far I am making bracelets and single ply Veg Tan guitar straps dyed on both sides. SO confused on what to use to prevent the dye from transferring onto clothing. Do you know if applying a final Resoline step (after dyeing, oiling/conditioning) helps prevent this? Or can you suggest anything else (other than not dyeing the back of my work) to help? Your advice would be greatly appreciated! Keep up the good work :)
Excellent video. Thanks. I'd like my end result to be water resistent and still smell like leather because as you say, people like to get that leather smell. So what do you think of using Resolene and then Leather Sheen. Just hoping the Leather Sheen puts the smell back in. Thanks.
Hi Ian, loved the video! Two questions, 1, What can you use on vachetta leather to clean and condition the leather. 2. what can I use to make my granddads old leather suitcase to give it a really nice looking sheen or patina? Thank you so much.
Thanks for your informative video. I just subscribed. I am interested in bringing up the detail of my leather carving on a leather purse while leaving the color of the background unchanged. Should I layer with a the leather first with a spray of leather sheen to seal the background color and then add the antiquing? Then add another layer of finish? For antiquing I have Eco-Flo brand products of Gel Antique, All in One, Hi Light, Leather Dye.
Great informative video Ian, as usual. Resolene does indeed repel water very well but does not make the items completely waterproof. I have a bunch of sheaths and belt pouches that I have made(thanks to you!!) and wear them camping and hiking, and would like to make them completely waterproof.So that the rain kind of beads off straightaway. Is there any kind of wax that you personally use or have heard of, to get that kind of protection? Thanks as always for great videos.
I use Sno Seal on things like that now, it’s got beeswax in and you melt it in with a heat gun it works nicely. You can’t really 100% waterproof leather items like pouches though so it’s always a case of best effort
great video, im looking at making myself some sheathes. this video and others you have made are both interesting and informative. thank you for making them.
I've been using Resolene for some time but don't like the finish as it's more a plastic feel and prone to cracking, also stops you moisturising leather later on
Great informative videos, Ian! I have a pair of red wing Beckmann where I've had to use some leather degreaser to remove a stain. This has taken the colour and finish from the leather. What can I use to restore the colour and finish? Does it just need a light polish to restore as the leather is already dyed?
thank you for the video, I wasn't sure which finish to get, although in other tutorials I've heard that the acrylic resoline is the best for dye blocking, and water proofing. I was worried that it would be too shiny of a finish though, because I like a more satin finish, and I'm not into the really high shine finishes. Was the finish with the resoline really shiny, or was it more like a satin? As for videos I'd like to see, I would really like to see a women's utility belt done, like, one of the ones that acts as a purse.
@MrAMMiranda Some people do go ahead and try to use neatsfoot as a finish though hence the testing! I myself know what it's for and wouldn't use it as a top coat as it's not designed for that as you say.
QUESTION: I know the carnauba cream makes the leather a bit supple and softens the feel of it. What about the resolene? Does that harden the feel of it? How does the surface *feel*? If you use carnauba first, then resolene, does it keep the nice carnauba smell and suppleness? Or does the resolene cancel that out?
Hi, how would I go about softening 2mm veg tan leather for a journal, that currently feels like a sheet of plywood? I've flexed it and pounded it to loosen the fibers, but I need it to be much more flexible. If I add oil to the leather, which of these finishes would stop the oil from possibly seeping out over time and staining the papers?
If doing a journal cover you may want to use a gourmet leather which is very soft. oil will soften leather up but I would be weary of using it for a journal.
Love the video, really informative! I'd love to know where you get your leather from, I'm looking for veg tan for carving and making journals. I wonder if you have any recommendations? Cheers
So what would be ideal for a pair of veg tan leather shoes that will be worn barefoot? Does the resolene or any of these other products affect the breathability? Any recommendations?
Great video thanks for putting it up glade that I saw it before i started back to my leather work lol I now know what finish to use after the first coat I think that resolene is a finishing coat over all so I need to go over this video a few times I guess to find a first coat lol but since I am using a predye leather I do not have to worry to much about bleeding over
Hi, brilliantly informative videos! I have a question for you... I want to re-dye an old pair of brown riding boots black. If I use Fiebings De-glazer on them do I also need to use Dye-Prep before dying aswell? It's not clear on their website! I'm planning on dying them with Fiebings oil dye and finishing with the Resolene. Thanks! Sophie
I haven't no, most of them are too thick (you can't airbrush anything more viscous than milk through the small ones) plus it's better to work the finish into the grain so a cloth is better really.
Hello, Im just starting out and You are invaluable :) Thank you so much for doing these videos. If you start doing courses cout me in. Anyway my problem & question I'm using Eco- Flo Gel on Veg tan as a block colour and I've been building up to get a rich colour then buffing out with carnauba cream, lush shine but when any water touched it the colour ran :( So have been trying Feibings Acrylic Resolene on top applied with sponge, Doauber, paint brush etc... It looks like... Well Streeky plastic horrible mess and everything is still running. How do you get the rich smooth finish without streaks and get the dye to stay on the leather for longer using these products if its possible with these? Also could I use just a block of natrual bees wax a water resitant finish?
This is a fantastic video. Thank you so much. Do you have any information on how well any of these seal dye? I've been using Eco Flo super shene but it's not gelling with me. I'm wondering if you seal your dye with something else that can be recommended? Thanks and thanks again for these amazing videos
what finish should i use on a leather purse? i dont want it to gloss but i want it to be water resistant, and generally keep the leather as it is. thanks :)
I am new to leather working so water will stain the leather, what about when you need to wet a section of leather to bend it. Will that area stay dark and be noticeable after you dye the leather? Thanks for any help.
Thank you so much for the smell information. I'm a disabled leather crafter who needs to avoid products with intense smells, so details like that really save me money (and save me from scent-exposure symptoms) by helping me know what to avoid buying. Unfortunately it's also very rare for content creators to include that kind of info in videos, so I really appreciate that you did.
@thebearclawjones If it's annoying you don't bloody watch it!!
Thank you so much - I appreciate the money and time it took to put this together. I'm just getting started in leatherwork and this helped me figure out what to purchase.
Thank you for this comparison. I would like to see this same test done on pieces of dyed leather so we can see the affect they have as a finish coat on a completed project as opposed to the pieces of natural leather.
Great video regardless.
I just bought Resolene to seal the interior of knife sheaths to prevent the steel from reacting to the leather.
Great video Ian! I play with these too. I dye first - try to spray it for evenness of color. Then use either carnauba, atom wax, or netsfoot to condition the leather. Then the top dressing: Tan Kote (it is ok but not water resistant), Tandy Leather Factory Satin Sheen (pretty good water resistance), or Resolene (my favorite for the reasons you showed). I also use Resolene for a dye blocker in a design. It needs to dry overnight to be really effective - as most of the other top dressings do.
And thanks again for a good video.
Joe
The Atom wax doesn't interfere with the resolene does it? I was never sure if the atom wax was a conditioner or a finish?
Commander Shepard and
Perfect description! I always was kinda confused why the companies don't provide more detailled information on their products, especially Fiebings. Following your video I could succesfully narrow down the possible uses of finishes for certain products. Thank you very much!
Hey Ian, I started working leather about 6 months ago. I'm doing it as a hobby, making little things for friends and family for free, just to get experience with leather. I have always loved leather and have a friend started working with leather about ten years ago. I just wanted to say thank you for all that you have shared. A lot of your videos I've watched more than once. I've learned a lot from your videos because you freely share your knowledge and experience. I'm working with leather because I love everything about it. I'm an "All or none" person. I don't how to half step at anything I do. I'm either good at something or I don't do it. I'm 55-year-old, a student of traditional Karate since I was 10, a cop and a biker for 25 years. Again, just wanted to say thanks for helping out an "older" man explore his love for leather. If I'm able to turn a buck(pound) or two in the process that would be great. If I can ever return the favor, don't hesitate to ask.
Dragon
United Road Runner M/C
Bronx NY
Looks more like you want to let everyone know about you, not about Ian's finishing or anything leather. typical cop: look at me!
Thanks for the video, as you said at the beginning, it can be quite tricky to figure out which finish is the best when so many people have different opinions. Thanks for all the other videos you do, I really appreciate them.
I just want to say thank you for making so many videos. I wish the leathercraft suppliers would do more. A lot of people are getting electronic tablets these days. I have been trying to come up with a truly, universal, fully adjustable cover. I personally think that a cover that could be moved from one tablet to the next would be a great seller. The covers you buy fall apart in a few months. And I dont think to many people would be willing to pay for a custom cover when they will probably replace there device in a few years. If you have any ideas you would be willing to share I would personally love to see them.
I tried Fiebings Resolene and tried it also on flesh side of leather. Seems to work pretty well in it.
one product I highly recommend is chap wax. designed for waterproofing leather riding chaps. thick sticky beeswax based stuff. leather boots will not soak through with it. Ive started using it over a coat of mink oil to finish knife sheaths. looks feels and smells great, and water beads right off. not too easy to find though, I had to order it from a horse packing supplier in the states. by far the best ive found though
Snoseal is supposedly beeswax in a solvent that evaporates at 125 degrees, leaving a permanent layer of wax in the top of your leather
I used to exercise race horses on the track and the tack would be subject to sweaty horses and dirt on a daily regular basis and the daily cleaning of the tack we would use a strong solution of Murphy's Oil Soap and water and says it up real good and it would always polish up nice the tack would have a sheen on it of course when it was new but it kept it kept the Saddles very beautiful. Have you ever tried Murphy's Oil Soap? Generally for wood floors that smells lemony and wonderful
I don't use gum trag as a finish but I do use it to lock down the nap on the inside/back of pieces. To make it do it's job though, it needs to be burnished like you would do on for an edge finish.
Thank you so much. Im very newbie but helped me immensely. going to finish my project now and see what happens. Im doing a black axe sheath so I dont care about discoloration. Thanks for your testing time and posting. I got a draw knife and then a head knife and after that will prolly be on knife sheaths mostly. Maybe a few holsters later one I figure out some things.
I have had success with Resolene! It makes a great resist. I have used it with oil and water based dyes before applying antique.
I'd mention that Resolene is quite glassy too, while Atom Wax is more mellow.
I have to say, I doubt I will ever use these products but I thoroughly enjoyed this video. Excellent test. Very scientific. Great job.
Thank you for the insight. I prefer to use some thing to hydrate the leather a bit, followed by resolene for protection.
thanks, Ian. Beautiful job. I'll be looking into Resolene, now.
very effective demonstration.
Thanks, Ian! I've been looking to compare resolene with bag kote and tan kote, to make a purse for my wife. I'm looking for a moderately matte finish, and one coat of resolene seems to get there. 2 coats seems to get a little too glossy. I really appreciate the comparison in this, as well as your other videos.
@mafejx edge coating isn't particularly necessary as long as you burnish the edges well
Thank you very much for taking the time to provide such in-depth information. You‘re a great teacher! I am new to leathercraft, and find it very therapeutic as it calms the racing mind.
Very good! I learn helpful information with each of his videos. He has a straightforward way of presenting.
Have you ever used Obenauf's ? It is designed by American Woodland fire fighters made over here in the states. It has a bee's wax and tree resin mix. Smells like bee's wax and cinnamon. It has done a wonderful job water proofing my boots.
+Gergg meister I have looked into getting some but the price of shipping to the UK is at best high to extortionate, ie what is $18 in the USA, costs $140 in the UK that does include shipping.
Tan coat is used for saddles. Saddles have to be able to absorb oils and conditioners. So the finish really just needs to keep the dye from getting on your breeches. Resolene might be great for sheaths and holsters. But it will destroy a saddle over time
Thank you for having the smell test included- I think one of the things that makes leather attractive is the smell - I haven’t seen any other reviews mention this about various products.
Love your channel!
Great info. Would've liked to see Atom Wax in the mix. I love the finish of it. I have Resolene for comparison though. Thanks!
I'm just starting out and this vid is extremely helpful! Thank you for the side/side comparison.
Wow! That Resoline looks amazing. Such a good comparison test.
Did the sno seal get edited out? I was really hoping to see how that compared. Thank you for comparing all of these!
Good. I’m glad it wasn’t just me that noticed
Did you notice any difference in the hardness of the leather?
Thanks. Great video. Also, I started using sno-seal. Do you still use that?
Honestly, all of fiebings products work amazing. Although, I prefer tankote because it doesn't change the color of the leather as much as the others and it doesn't leave the leather as stiff as the acrylic finishes. I also don't like a high gloss on my products. Just my two cents. Awesome vid dude.
I love the REsolene. I been using it on my leather holsters that I make.
HI IAN i leave in Berlin Germany i been watching your videos with so much interest and passion i don t need to say that all your work is simply ART with a toutch of Magic and perfect with Harmony and love you work the leather...(sorry for my poor English) i wonder if you could do a video were you can show which product do you use after you color/Dye your work to make it look so beautiful shiny or matt i mean the leather have at the beginning a natural color and look... what do you use to make it look so beautiful when is finish? what product first and which one on the end do you use?
I am a very very beginner and i fall in love with the work you do,
ThanK YoU in advance ,
T2H
Neatsfoot oil is made from the hooves of neat cattle: Neat cattle is old terminology for domesticated cattle (as opposed to wild cows ? , well, , , maybe they existed many years ago). Many thanks for the video, you picked up a new subscriber.
This was a great test to do online . Very informative. Thank you!
Ian I wish that you did a dye then compared finishes. Can you add an oil then an acrylic or because you have added an oil like neets foot then you have to add an oil based finish??? What about animal fat???
Thank you for the info, confirms my preference for resolene. However, you need to be careful not to put on too heavy a coat with resolene
Thanks so much for this video! 🌸 I am absolutely glad you made it. It gives a great overview and now I can make a better decision.
Hi Ian. Thanks for great and very educational video.
Thank you so much for doing these videos! I have been using Resolene for a while and I like it as a finish -- I was very happy to see it "win" for water resistance. :-) It does seem to stiffen the leather a bit though, so I think I will try Neatsfoot or Carnauba Creme underneath the Resolene, to make the leather more supple for cuff bracelets. (I have tried using a leather conditioner over the dye and under the Resolene, and the conditioner did a little but not much for suppleness.) Do you have a favorite product for increasing suppleness in particular (that would also allow a Resolene topcoat)? Thanks!
I would like to see the results of a coat of neatsfoot etc., covered with the resolene. Never mind, I think I will try some combinations and see how they come out.
+The45Gunslinger neatsfoot oil isn't a finish it's a conditioner, it shouldn't really affect the finish though it will darken the leather a shade.
I was thinking of flexibility and "waterproofing" and smell as a tertiary factor.
Very well put together, a bit long. As you mentioned not all of these are ment for a finish on the leather peice. However they all serve a different effect. For example your winner is a perfect finish, because it actually seals the leather being made from plastic resin the acrylic resonlene. Neetsfoot oil, however is a restorative to renew, soften and extend the leathers life, may offer some water resistance being an oil but not much. It is made from the cow's leg, ft not hoof all natural oil.
Hello, your video was very helpful, however as a beginner in the craft, I would love to see start to finish of dying, conditioning, & a good finish that would keep the leather soft, shiny, and water resisted. Thanks Again
Lots of my videos show this process
great video man. just started my first leather job this evening and looks like i should buy a bottle of resoline. Thanks!!
Awesome video. Super helpful. I have been using Eco Flow Super Sheen and I am curious how it would compare.
Great Video. Any advice on finish that will not change color? Making bracelets dyed with Fiebings Pro Dye. I let them dry for days. I test them by letting them set in water to see if they bleed dye. 50% of the time they do. The matte finish that the leather is after dyeing is great but it changes after using resolene (color and gloss) Any tips would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you this is very helpful. I am about to customise a vachetta leather of my preloved LV bag ❤️
Thanks so much. Really appreciate the thought and detail you put into this!
Hi Ian! Nice videos, thanks for being such a great help to anyone who plans trying leathercraft. I'd like to ask if dyeing the leather sort of works as a finish to the leather as well? Like making it waterproof/shiny at the same time as coloring it? Thanks!
Some dyes have finish mixed in but dye itself does nothing but colour the leather, it isn't a finish.
You can mix 6% of Fiebing’s Leather Dye with 94% Fiebing’s Prime Neatsfoot Oil Compound. Apply as usual to unfinished, veg, tanned leather and allow to dry. After that, you can buff and seal with Resolene. You can use Edge Cote for the edges. It comes in different colours.
Thanks for sharing this comparison test! This is very good information for me making dog collars and leashes. Well done sir!
Great video! Thanks for putting this together.
Hi,
looks like I found your video just in time :)
I'm renewing old saddle. It was once black. I've degreased it, then used neatsfoot oil. Next day I've painted it with black eco-flo waterstain, let it dry buffed and oiled with kieffers' oil (Ingredients: white oil, derm oil , bees wax, turpentine oil and perfume).
The question is: considering the paint was water based should I use degreaser before applying the finish or not? I use Super shene finish from eco-flo. I'm thinking now of resolene but I wonder how resistant it is to rubbing.
Great video thanks! Best comparison I've seen! What do you recommend for leather work gloves? I'd like to use something that'll keep them soft but help protect and make cleaning easier! Thanks!
Good video. Kinda wish you would have also done a test piece with mink oil, great video though.
So if you make something that will get wet occasionally you will use dye, neatsfoot and finish off with resolin ?
Thank you, Ian. Very, VERY helpful!
Let’s just say yogurt. LOL
I’ve been using Eco-Flo Satin Sheen for years. I’m not fond of high gloss finish. I’ve read you can buff the Resolene from a medium gloss to a high gloss. I might give it a try to compare with what I use. The repelling of water in your video was excellent.
Thanks for the video.
Thank you so much! I am looking at re-dying / darkening some leather tack. If I use acetone to strip wax & clean & open the pores for the new dye, can you tell me if I need to re-apply a finish like Resolene? Or will the finish resist removal by acetone?
HI Ian, Great video..thank you so much! I have learned a lot from your videos. I am new to this craft and am enjoying it a lot. So much to learn! So far I am making bracelets and single ply Veg Tan guitar straps dyed on both sides. SO confused on what to use to prevent the dye from transferring onto clothing. Do you know if applying a final Resoline step (after dyeing, oiling/conditioning) helps prevent this? Or can you suggest anything else (other than not dyeing the back of my work) to help? Your advice would be greatly appreciated!
Keep up the good work :)
Excellent video. Thanks. I'd like my end result to be water resistent and still smell like leather because as you say, people like to get that leather smell. So what do you think of using Resolene and then Leather Sheen. Just hoping the Leather Sheen puts the smell back in. Thanks.
I would use a beeswax based product like Sno Seal or Fiebing's Aussie
Hi Ian, loved the video! Two questions, 1, What can you use on vachetta leather to clean and condition the leather. 2. what can I use to make my granddads old leather suitcase to give it a really nice looking sheen or patina? Thank you so much.
Hi try to check LITTLE MAMA's HOUSE, Michelle has vids on how to clean vachetta :-).
Thanks for your informative video. I just subscribed. I am interested in bringing up the detail of my leather carving on a leather purse while leaving the color of the background unchanged. Should I layer with a the leather first with a spray of leather sheen to seal the background color and then add the antiquing? Then add another layer of finish? For antiquing I have Eco-Flo brand products of Gel Antique, All in One, Hi Light, Leather Dye.
Great informative video Ian, as usual. Resolene does indeed repel water very well but does not make the items completely waterproof. I have a bunch of sheaths and belt pouches that I have made(thanks to you!!) and wear them camping and hiking, and would like to make them completely waterproof.So that the rain kind of beads off straightaway. Is there any kind of wax that you personally use or have heard of, to get that kind of protection? Thanks as always for great videos.
I use Sno Seal on things like that now, it’s got beeswax in and you melt it in with a heat gun it works nicely. You can’t really 100% waterproof leather items like pouches though so it’s always a case of best effort
Sno Seal on top of Resolene or just leave out the Resolene step?
just sno seal
Thanks Ian.
great video, im looking at making myself some sheathes. this video and others you have made are both interesting and informative. thank you for making them.
Excellent comparison video. Can you recommend for me which one I should use for my Chanel handbags, Goat and Pony skin leathers? Many thanks
I've been using Resolene for some time but don't like the finish as it's more a plastic feel and prone to cracking, also stops you moisturising leather later on
Thank you so much for this!
This is the exact kind of direct comparison I've been looking for.
Great informative videos, Ian! I have a pair of red wing Beckmann where I've had to use some leather degreaser to remove a stain. This has taken the colour and finish from the leather. What can I use to restore the colour and finish? Does it just need a light polish to restore as the leather is already dyed?
thank you for the video, I wasn't sure which finish to get, although in other tutorials I've heard that the acrylic resoline is the best for dye blocking, and water proofing. I was worried that it would be too shiny of a finish though, because I like a more satin finish, and I'm not into the really high shine finishes. Was the finish with the resoline really shiny, or was it more like a satin?
As for videos I'd like to see, I would really like to see a women's utility belt done, like, one of the ones that acts as a purse.
Thank you for doing that test and sharing it!
@MrAMMiranda Some people do go ahead and try to use neatsfoot as a finish though hence the testing! I myself know what it's for and wouldn't use it as a top coat as it's not designed for that as you say.
QUESTION: I know the carnauba cream makes the leather a bit supple and softens the feel of it. What about the resolene? Does that harden the feel of it? How does the surface *feel*?
If you use carnauba first, then resolene, does it keep the nice carnauba smell and suppleness? Or does the resolene cancel that out?
Hi, how would I go about softening 2mm veg tan leather for a journal, that currently feels like a sheet of plywood? I've flexed it and pounded it to loosen the fibers, but I need it to be much more flexible. If I add oil to the leather, which of these finishes would stop the oil from possibly seeping out over time and staining the papers?
If doing a journal cover you may want to use a gourmet leather which is very soft. oil will soften leather up but I would be weary of using it for a journal.
Awesome review! Helped me a lot!
Love the video, really informative! I'd love to know where you get your leather from, I'm looking for veg tan for carving and making journals. I wonder if you have any recommendations?
Cheers
exactly what I needed to know. very helpful, THANK YOU.
thanks a lot!!! quick qustion, you did not use Sno Seal.. what do you like better, resolene or sno seal?
thanks!
Awesome. Really appreciate the information here.
This was extremely helpful. Thank you!
There are dye charts on the Fiebings website, showing dyes on camera wouldn't work!
So what would be ideal for a pair of veg tan leather shoes that will be worn barefoot? Does the resolene or any of these other products affect the breathability? Any recommendations?
Great video thanks for putting it up glade that I saw it before i started back to my leather work lol I now know what finish to use after the first coat I think that resolene is a finishing coat over all so I need to go over this video a few times I guess to find a first coat lol but since I am using a predye leather I do not have to worry to much about bleeding over
Nice video. Can you explain how long you leave each treatment to dry, before going on to the next.
I wonder if I can paint the resolene on tan kote? Because I am using tan kote to the antique Finishing. What are you thinking.
Hi, brilliantly informative videos! I have a question for you... I want to re-dye an old pair of brown riding boots black. If I use Fiebings De-glazer on them do I also need to use Dye-Prep before dying aswell? It's not clear on their website! I'm planning on dying them with Fiebings oil dye and finishing with the Resolene. Thanks! Sophie
That was very useful, thanks Ian.
I would have liked to see the water run test on the leather pieces and would have been great to read from my side! !
At what point do you apply resolene? Would it be applied before or after stitching and edge burnishing is done?
Thanks!
I haven't no, most of them are too thick (you can't airbrush anything more viscous than milk through the small ones) plus it's better to work the finish into the grain so a cloth is better really.
Hello, Im just starting out and You are invaluable :) Thank you so much for doing these videos. If you start doing courses cout me in. Anyway my problem & question I'm using Eco- Flo Gel on Veg tan as a block colour and I've been building up to get a rich colour then buffing out with carnauba cream, lush shine but when any water touched it the colour ran :( So have been trying Feibings Acrylic Resolene on top applied with sponge, Doauber, paint brush etc... It looks like... Well Streeky plastic horrible mess and everything is still running. How do you get the rich smooth finish without streaks and get the dye to stay on the leather for longer using these products if its possible with these? Also could I use just a block of natrual bees wax a water resitant finish?
Very valuable information. Thank you for making this video.
This is a fantastic video. Thank you so much. Do you have any information on how well any of these seal dye? I've been using Eco Flo super shene but it's not gelling with me. I'm wondering if you seal your dye with something else that can be recommended? Thanks and thanks again for these amazing videos
Will any of these finishes prevent the leather dye from rubbing off? I am using lambskin by the way if that changes the rules at all.
Gum trag is also a resist. If you use it, make sure you dye first.
what finish should i use on a leather purse? i dont want it to gloss but i want it to be water resistant, and generally keep the leather as it is.
thanks :)
PS. I use nubuck
I am new to leather working so water will stain the leather, what about when you need to wet a section of leather to bend it. Will that area stay dark and be noticeable after you dye the leather? Thanks for any help.
what's your take on "deglaze or acetone" for preparing before dying
What would you put on Chrome Tanned Crazy Horse leather to care for it over its life? Or does it need anything at all?