Excellent explanation, definitely my Toyota has a “fuel problem” , passed emissions test flawless (no codes)but under acceleration valve train rattle even using “93” , with the a/c on it’s even worse and also struggling to crank it up in the morning , my dilemma is finding what’s wrong, the fuel pump (hell of work) or the fuel regulator ( expensive part) ☹️
Steps for Diagnosis: 1) Fuel Pressure Test: Attach a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rail and check the pressure against the specifications for your Toyota. Check the pressure at idle, during acceleration, and with the A/C on. 2) Inspect the Fuel Pressure Regulator: Check for fuel in the vacuum line and use a vacuum pump to see if it holds vacuum. 3) Check Fuel Pump Operation: Listen for the fuel pump when you turn the key to the "on" position (without starting the car). It should run briefly to pressurize the system. If you don’t hear it or it sounds weak, it might be failing. Possible Next Steps: 1) If Fuel Pressure is Low: Replace the fuel pump. 2) If Fuel Pressure is Normal but Drops Under Load: Replace the fuel pressure regulator. 3) If Both Components Seem Fine: There might be other issues such as clogged fuel injectors or a problem with the fuel filter.
My Toyota 2D truck has a knock sound that comes up and disappears when the truck is loaded and moving but its never there when the engine is idling. What could be the cause?
A knock sound in your Toyota 2D truck that appears and disappears when the truck is loaded and moving but isn’t present when idling could be caused by several factors: 1) Engine Load Knock: When the engine is under load (like when the truck is carrying a heavy load), it might knock due to pre-ignition or detonation. This happens if the fuel-air mixture ignites prematurely, which can cause a knocking noise. This is often related to issues with fuel quality, timing, or carbon buildup in the combustion chamber. 2) Worn Engine Bearings: When bearings (especially rod bearings) are worn, they may not knock at idle but will under load due to increased pressure and movement in the engine components. 3) Piston Slap: Knock sound may also appear when the pistons move slightly within the cylinder due to wear. It can be more pronounced under load and may not be as noticeable at idle. 4) Loose or Damaged Engine Mounts: If the engine mounts are worn or damaged, the engine could shift slightly under load, causing metal-to-metal contact, which could create a knocking sound. 5) Suspension or Drivetrain Issues: Sometimes, a knock under load can be related to the suspension or drivetrain, such as a worn CV joint, U-joint, or differential problem, rather than the engine itself. 6) Exhaust or Heat Shield Rattle: Sometimes, parts of the exhaust system or a heat shield can rattle under load due to the increased vibration but remain quiet at idle. Since the issue only occurs under load, it suggests that the engine or drivetrain components are being stressed in a way that reveals the problem. It’s best to have the truck inspected by a professional mechanic to pinpoint the exact cause.
My Kawasaki GPZ 900 engine knocks rhythmically at 4000 rpm, as if a key were tapping the exhaust manifold. I replaced the tensioner and timing chain and it didn't help. Recently, I looked into the cylinders with a camera and the pistons 2 and 3 are covered with a layer of carbon. Do I suspect knocking combustion correctly?
The carbon buildup on pistons 2 and 3 indicates that there might be an uneven burn or improper combustion happening in those cylinders. Knocking occurs when the air-fuel mixture in the cylinder ignites prematurely or unevenly, leading to abnormal combustion. The carbon buildup could exacerbate this issue by creating hot spots that can cause pre-ignition.
If the knocking occurs only during driving and then goes away, it could be related to specific conditions such as load, engine speed, or temperature. Here are some potential causes 1) Low-Quality Fuel 2) Carbon deposits on the combustion chamber walls or piston tops 3) Incorrect Ignition Timing 4) Lean Air-Fuel Mixture 5) Faulty Knock Sensor 6) EGR System Issues 7) Old or Worn Spark Plugs
What would cause a new motorcycle engine with only 1900 miles knock as it’s warming up, and stop knocking when it’s warmed up? What if this engine has a little too much motor oil ?
It may cause because of different causes such as: 1) Piston Slap: This is a common cause of knocking noises in cold engines. When the engine is cold, the pistons may be slightly loose in the cylinder bores. As the engine warms up, the pistons expand and fit more snugly, reducing or eliminating the knocking noise. 2) Oil Viscosity: If the engine oil is too thick (high viscosity) when cold, it may not flow as easily, leading to less effective lubrication of engine components and resulting in knocking sounds. As the oil warms up, it thins out and flows more freely, providing better lubrication and reducing noise. 3) Valve Clearance: Cold engines may have larger valve clearances due to metal contraction. This can cause the valves to make a knocking or tapping sound. As the engine warms up, the metal expands, and the valve clearances become tighter, reducing the noise. 4) Cam Chain Tensioner: Some motorcycles have automatic cam chain tensioners that adjust the tension as the engine warms up. If the tensioner is not working correctly when cold, it can cause a knocking noise that goes away once the engine is warm and the tensioner has adjusted. 5) Cold Engine Combustion: When an engine is cold, the combustion process is not as efficient, which can sometimes cause knocking or pinging sounds. This typically resolves as the engine reaches operating temperature and combustion becomes more efficient. 6) Fuel Quality: Poor quality or incorrect octane fuel can cause pre-ignition or knocking, particularly when the engine is cold. Once the engine is warm, it may run more smoothly and the knocking may diminish. 7) Break-in Period: Even though 1900 miles is a significant amount for a break-in period, some engines might still be settling. Slight variations in engine component fit and wear-in can cause temporary noises that disappear as the engine parts finish settling into their final operating conditions.
@@MechanicalBoost : : you’re good ! I can’t thank you enough for taking the time to put all that down and sending it. Thank you. Out of those seven, at this point and given that the engine is so new, I’d suspect oil quality and fuel quality. I could be they the fuel is not of good quality. I did notice that the gas was really white or clear. This could be it. I’m going to suck it all out and replace it tomorrow. For the oil, Triumph recommends Castrol. So I’ll Che l with the dealer that did the oil change. I’m really hoping it’s the gas. The cold engine, valve clearances, piston slap, and cam tensioner definitely sound like possible causes, but I’m going with the simple possibilities first. Gas and oil. I will say this……there was about two gallons of fuel in the tank, and I added one gallon of 93 octane to see if it made a difference. Not noticeable. I’d go pump it out right now, but it’s 10pm. Thanks again.
@@MechanicalBoost: was not the fuel. The engine is mapped at the factory. Is it possible for that mapping to become corrupt? or partially corrupt? or just enough to cause knocking? or knocking during warm up? or knocking during warm up and then continue but not as bad?
A knocking sound in your car when it's cold but not at normal temperature can be caused by several factors: 1) Engine Oil: When the engine is cold, the oil is thicker and doesn't lubricate the engine as effectively until it warms up. This can cause knocking sounds. Make sure you're using the correct oil viscosity for your vehicle. 2) Piston Slap: When the engine is cold, the pistons may not fit as tightly in the cylinders, causing a slapping noise. This often goes away as the engine warms up and the metal expands. 3) Worn Engine Components: Components like bearings or lifters can be worn and might not function properly until the oil warms up and provides better lubrication. 4) Fuel Quality: Poor quality or incorrect fuel can cause knocking, especially when the engine is cold. Ensure you're using the recommended octane rating for your car. 5) Carbon Deposits: Carbon build-up in the combustion chamber can cause pre-ignition or knocking, more noticeable when the engine is cold. A fuel system cleaner might help reduce these deposits.
Excellent explanation, definitely my Toyota has a “fuel problem” , passed emissions test flawless (no codes)but under acceleration valve train rattle even using “93” , with the a/c on it’s even worse and also struggling to crank it up in the morning , my dilemma is finding what’s wrong, the fuel pump (hell of work) or the fuel regulator ( expensive part) ☹️
Steps for Diagnosis:
1) Fuel Pressure Test: Attach a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rail and check the pressure against the specifications for your Toyota. Check the pressure at idle, during acceleration, and with the A/C on.
2) Inspect the Fuel Pressure Regulator: Check for fuel in the vacuum line and use a vacuum pump to see if it holds vacuum.
3) Check Fuel Pump Operation: Listen for the fuel pump when you turn the key to the "on" position (without starting the car). It should run briefly to pressurize the system. If you don’t hear it or it sounds weak, it might be failing.
Possible Next Steps:
1) If Fuel Pressure is Low: Replace the fuel pump.
2) If Fuel Pressure is Normal but Drops Under Load: Replace the fuel pressure regulator.
3) If Both Components Seem Fine: There might be other issues such as clogged fuel injectors or a problem with the fuel filter.
@@MechanicalBoost you’re my hero 👍💪
Best video and information. Thanks
Thank you sharing of knowledge
My Toyota 2D truck has a knock sound that comes up and disappears when the truck is loaded and moving but its never there when the engine is idling. What could be the cause?
A knock sound in your Toyota 2D truck that appears and disappears when the truck is loaded and moving but isn’t present when idling could be caused by several factors:
1) Engine Load Knock: When the engine is under load (like when the truck is carrying a heavy load), it might knock due to pre-ignition or detonation. This happens if the fuel-air mixture ignites prematurely, which can cause a knocking noise. This is often related to issues with fuel quality, timing, or carbon buildup in the combustion chamber.
2) Worn Engine Bearings: When bearings (especially rod bearings) are worn, they may not knock at idle but will under load due to increased pressure and movement in the engine components.
3) Piston Slap: Knock sound may also appear when the pistons move slightly within the cylinder due to wear. It can be more pronounced under load and may not be as noticeable at idle.
4) Loose or Damaged Engine Mounts: If the engine mounts are worn or damaged, the engine could shift slightly under load, causing metal-to-metal contact, which could create a knocking sound.
5) Suspension or Drivetrain Issues: Sometimes, a knock under load can be related to the suspension or drivetrain, such as a worn CV joint, U-joint, or differential problem, rather than the engine itself.
6) Exhaust or Heat Shield Rattle: Sometimes, parts of the exhaust system or a heat shield can rattle under load due to the increased vibration but remain quiet at idle.
Since the issue only occurs under load, it suggests that the engine or drivetrain components are being stressed in a way that reveals the problem. It’s best to have the truck inspected by a professional mechanic to pinpoint the exact cause.
Thz you So much
from Myanmar
My Kawasaki GPZ 900 engine knocks rhythmically at 4000 rpm, as if a key were tapping the exhaust manifold. I replaced the tensioner and timing chain and it didn't help. Recently, I looked into the cylinders with a camera and the pistons 2 and 3 are covered with a layer of carbon. Do I suspect knocking combustion correctly?
The carbon buildup on pistons 2 and 3 indicates that there might be an uneven burn or improper combustion happening in those cylinders.
Knocking occurs when the air-fuel mixture in the cylinder ignites prematurely or unevenly, leading to abnormal combustion. The carbon buildup could exacerbate this issue by creating hot spots that can cause pre-ignition.
@@MechanicalBoost I bought some foam to clean the carbon on the pistons and we'll see if it's any better.
@@MrTomitomi1975 oky try it and then share us your feedback
@@MechanicalBoost thanks
My engine only knocks when driving but then goes away, what could that mean?
If the knocking occurs only during driving and then goes away, it could be related to specific conditions such as load, engine speed, or temperature. Here are some potential causes 1) Low-Quality Fuel 2) Carbon deposits on the combustion chamber walls or piston tops 3) Incorrect Ignition Timing 4) Lean Air-Fuel Mixture 5) Faulty Knock Sensor 6) EGR System Issues 7) Old or Worn Spark Plugs
What would cause a new motorcycle engine with only 1900 miles knock as it’s warming up, and stop knocking when it’s warmed up?
What if this engine has a little too much motor oil ?
It may cause because of different causes such as:
1) Piston Slap: This is a common cause of knocking noises in cold engines. When the engine is cold, the pistons may be slightly loose in the cylinder bores. As the engine warms up, the pistons expand and fit more snugly, reducing or eliminating the knocking noise.
2) Oil Viscosity: If the engine oil is too thick (high viscosity) when cold, it may not flow as easily, leading to less effective lubrication of engine components and resulting in knocking sounds. As the oil warms up, it thins out and flows more freely, providing better lubrication and reducing noise.
3) Valve Clearance: Cold engines may have larger valve clearances due to metal contraction. This can cause the valves to make a knocking or tapping sound. As the engine warms up, the metal expands, and the valve clearances become tighter, reducing the noise.
4) Cam Chain Tensioner: Some motorcycles have automatic cam chain tensioners that adjust the tension as the engine warms up. If the tensioner is not working correctly when cold, it can cause a knocking noise that goes away once the engine is warm and the tensioner has adjusted.
5) Cold Engine Combustion: When an engine is cold, the combustion process is not as efficient, which can sometimes cause knocking or pinging sounds. This typically resolves as the engine reaches operating temperature and combustion becomes more efficient.
6) Fuel Quality: Poor quality or incorrect octane fuel can cause pre-ignition or knocking, particularly when the engine is cold. Once the engine is warm, it may run more smoothly and the knocking may diminish.
7) Break-in Period: Even though 1900 miles is a significant amount for a break-in period, some engines might still be settling. Slight variations in engine component fit and wear-in can cause temporary noises that disappear as the engine parts finish settling into their final operating conditions.
@@MechanicalBoost :
:
you’re good !
I can’t thank you enough for taking the time to put all that down and sending it.
Thank you.
Out of those seven, at this point and given that the engine is so new, I’d suspect oil quality and fuel quality.
I could be they the fuel is not of good quality. I did notice that the gas was really white or clear. This could be it.
I’m going to suck it all out and replace it tomorrow.
For the oil, Triumph recommends Castrol.
So I’ll Che l with the dealer that did the oil change.
I’m really hoping it’s the gas.
The cold engine, valve clearances, piston slap, and cam tensioner definitely sound like possible causes, but I’m going with the simple possibilities first.
Gas and oil.
I will say this……there was about two gallons of fuel in the tank, and I added one gallon of 93 octane to see if it made a difference. Not noticeable.
I’d go pump it out right now, but it’s 10pm.
Thanks again.
@@MechanicalBoost: was not the fuel.
The engine is mapped at the factory.
Is it possible for that mapping to become corrupt?
or partially corrupt?
or just enough to cause knocking?
or knocking during warm up?
or knocking during warm up and then continue but not as bad?
Carburettor motor for me
My car knoking when it's cold and at normal temperature it doesn't knoking nissan rogue sport 2021
A knocking sound in your car when it's cold but not at normal temperature can be caused by several factors:
1) Engine Oil: When the engine is cold, the oil is thicker and doesn't lubricate the engine as effectively until it warms up. This can cause knocking sounds. Make sure you're using the correct oil viscosity for your vehicle.
2) Piston Slap: When the engine is cold, the pistons may not fit as tightly in the cylinders, causing a slapping noise. This often goes away as the engine warms up and the metal expands.
3) Worn Engine Components: Components like bearings or lifters can be worn and might not function properly until the oil warms up and provides better lubrication.
4) Fuel Quality: Poor quality or incorrect fuel can cause knocking, especially when the engine is cold. Ensure you're using the recommended octane rating for your car.
5) Carbon Deposits: Carbon build-up in the combustion chamber can cause pre-ignition or knocking, more noticeable when the engine is cold. A fuel system cleaner might help reduce these deposits.
100% sure? List a video of the knocking sound
Yes. This video has the main reasons of knocking sound
@@MechanicalBoost kindly upload more videos .. waiting
an audio clip of the knocking sound would be great.
Or your probably low on oil
That's true I think that's what's wrong with my sons engine the oil light keeps coming on
Xlnt👏🎉
❤John 3,16 ❤