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Given the diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) you received for your 2012 Chevrolet Suburban, it's clear that there are multiple issues that need addressing. 1) Address the Communication Bus Issue (U0073) i) Inspect the wiring and connectors for the communication bus. Look for signs of damage, corrosion, or loose connections. ii) Check for any aftermarket accessories or modifications that might interfere with the communication bus. iii) If the wiring and connectors appear intact, the issue might lie with one of the control modules. Diagnosing this will require a deeper scan and possibly replacement of the faulty module. 2. Fuel System Inspection (P069E, P2635, P0108B) i) Fuel Pressure Regulator and Sensor: The fuel pressure regulator in the 2012 Suburban is typically located near the fuel rail or within the fuel pump assembly in the fuel tank. Given the codes, it is important to inspect the fuel pressure sensor and regulator for proper operation. Replace the fuel pressure sensor if it's found to be faulty. ii) Fuel Pump: Given the P2635 code indicating low performance, the fuel pump may indeed be failing and may need to be replaced. Before replacement, check the fuel filter to ensure it is not clogged, as this could also cause low fuel flow. iii) Fuel Pump Control Module: Check the wiring and connectors to the fuel pump control module. Ensure there are no loose or corroded connections. If the module itself is faulty, it will need to be replaced. An update or reprogramming of the module might also be necessary, which can typically be done at a dealership or an authorized service center. Due to the complexity of these issues, particularly the communication bus problem, it might be beneficial to have a professional mechanic perform a thorough diagnostic. They can use advanced tools to pinpoint the exact cause and recommend appropriate fixes.

It may cause because of different causes such as: 1) Piston Slap: This is a common cause of knocking noises in cold engines. When the engine is cold, the pistons may be slightly loose in the cylinder bores. As the engine warms up, the pistons expand and fit more snugly, reducing or eliminating the knocking noise. 2) Oil Viscosity: If the engine oil is too thick (high viscosity) when cold, it may not flow as easily, leading to less effective lubrication of engine components and resulting in knocking sounds. As the oil warms up, it thins out and flows more freely, providing better lubrication and reducing noise. 3) Valve Clearance: Cold engines may have larger valve clearances due to metal contraction. This can cause the valves to make a knocking or tapping sound. As the engine warms up, the metal expands, and the valve clearances become tighter, reducing the noise. 4) Cam Chain Tensioner: Some motorcycles have automatic cam chain tensioners that adjust the tension as the engine warms up. If the tensioner is not working correctly when cold, it can cause a knocking noise that goes away once the engine is warm and the tensioner has adjusted. 5) Cold Engine Combustion: When an engine is cold, the combustion process is not as efficient, which can sometimes cause knocking or pinging sounds. This typically resolves as the engine reaches operating temperature and combustion becomes more efficient. 6) Fuel Quality: Poor quality or incorrect octane fuel can cause pre-ignition or knocking, particularly when the engine is cold. Once the engine is warm, it may run more smoothly and the knocking may diminish. 7) Break-in Period: Even though 1900 miles is a significant amount for a break-in period, some engines might still be settling. Slight variations in engine component fit and wear-in can cause temporary noises that disappear as the engine parts finish settling into their final operating conditions.

@@MechanicalBoost : : you’re good ! I can’t thank you enough for taking the time to put all that down and sending it. Thank you. Out of those seven, at this point and given that the engine is so new, I’d suspect oil quality and fuel quality. I could be they the fuel is not of good quality. I did notice that the gas was really white or clear. This could be it. I’m going to suck it all out and replace it tomorrow. For the oil, Triumph recommends Castrol. So I’ll Che l with the dealer that did the oil change. I’m really hoping it’s the gas. The cold engine, valve clearances, piston slap, and cam tensioner definitely sound like possible causes, but I’m going with the simple possibilities first. Gas and oil. I will say this……there was about two gallons of fuel in the tank, and I added one gallon of 93 octane to see if it made a difference. Not noticeable. I’d go pump it out right now, but it’s 10pm. Thanks again.

@@MechanicalBoost: was not the fuel. The engine is mapped at the factory. Is it possible for that mapping to become corrupt? or partially corrupt? or just enough to cause knocking? or knocking during warm up? or knocking during warm up and then continue but not as bad?

Given the combination of symptoms, it is crucial to address both the oil consumption and the exhaust smell promptly. The exhaust smell inside the cabin is particularly concerning due to the potential for harmful fumes. 1) Check for Internal Oil Leaks: i) Compression Test: Perform a compression test to check for worn piston rings or cylinder walls. ii) PCV Valve: Inspect and replace the PCV valve if necessary. Inspect the Exhaust System: iii) Visual Inspection: Perform a thorough visual inspection of the exhaust manifold, gaskets, and the entire exhaust system for any signs of leaks. iv) Smoke Test: A smoke test can help identify small leaks in the exhaust system that might not be visible. 2) Examine the HVAC System: i) Inspect Blower Motor and Housing: Ensure the blower motor and its housing are free from damage and properly sealed. ii) Cabin Air Filter: Replace the cabin air filter if it’s dirty or improperly installed.

It's possible that the rattling noise and the check engine light indicating an O2 sensor code are related, but it doesn't necessarily mean it's a catalyst failure. Rattling noises could be caused by various issues such as loose parts, exhaust system problems, or engine issues. The O2 sensor code could indicate a problem with the oxygen sensor itself, or it could be a symptom of another issue affecting the air-fuel mixture or exhaust system. A failing catalyst can sometimes trigger O2 sensor codes, but it's not the only possibility.

Yes, a bad catalytic converter can sometimes make a rattling sound, similar to the sound of an engine lacking oil. This typically occurs when the internal components of the catalytic converter become damaged or loose. The rattling noise may be more pronounced during acceleration or when the vehicle is idling.

@@MechanicalBoost hey i really appreciate the reply but i have another question adding to my first one that so whenever that sound comes sometimes the low engine oil symbol also lit up for 1 sec not ever-time but lets say 5 out of 2 times but my car’s engine oil level (was-is) normal and it is also not burning any oil

In a 2012 Ford F-150, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) is typically located under the hood, near the engine compartment. It is often positioned on the firewall, on the passenger side of the vehicle. However, it's always a good idea to consult the vehicle's manual or a repair guide for the exact location, as it can vary slightly depending on the specific model and configuration of the truck.

A broken catalytic converter could potentially cause issues with acceleration, but it wouldn't necessarily stop all acceleration responses on its own.

Whats going on with your q50 bro

@@iHeAdSh0T13 it still won’t accelerate it does and everything when it’s cold but once it’s start getting warm it goes out and it won’t accelerate or nothing

I’m taking it to the shop to put the big scanner on it

Have you done an idle relearn procedure on it? You can replace throttle body and pedal position sensor all you want , but if you don’t do the idle relearn afterwards, you’re going nowhere fast (literally and metaphorically lol) because you essentially haven’t programmed that new TB or pedal sensor to the ECU

If your car's diagnostic scan indicates a faulty catalytic converter but you aren't experiencing any severe symptoms such as significant loss of power, unusual noises, or excessive emissions, it's possible that the issue might not be immediately critical. However, driving long distances with a potentially malfunctioning catalytic converter can still pose some risks. Depending on local regulations, driving with a malfunctioning catalytic converter could result in fines or legal consequences, especially if your vehicle fails emissions tests.

Experiencing misfiring, white smoke from the exhaust, and a sudden decrease in engine oil levels can be concerning issues, often indicating underlying problems with your vehicle. The issue may be a Leaking Head Gasket, Coolant Leak, Failed Piston Rings, Cylinder Head or Engine Block Cracks, clogged PCV valve or breather hose. It is recommended to have your vehicle inspected by a qualified mechanic as soon as possible.

Explain your question

A bad radiator cap can indirectly affect the performance of the radiator fan, but it doesn't directly control the fan's operation. The primary function of a radiator cap is to maintain the appropriate pressure within the cooling system. If the radiator cap is faulty, it may not be able to maintain the correct pressure, which can lead to various issues such as: A faulty radiator cap may not seal properly, leading to coolant leakage. If the coolant level drops too low, it can affect the efficiency of the radiator in dissipating heat, which may cause the engine to overheat. In extreme cases, this can trigger the radiator fan to operate more frequently or continuously in an attempt to cool the engine.

The symptoms you've described suggest potential issues with the transmission system of your vehicle. These symptoms can be caused by various factors, including problems with the transmission solenoids, valve body, transmission fluid level/condition, or even internal transmission components. Here's a breakdown of potential issues based on the symptoms you've described: Jerking and erratic shifting: Jerking during gear changes, skipping gears, or difficulty engaging certain gears can be indicative of problems with transmission solenoids or the valve body. Failure to engage higher gears: If the transmission is not shifting into higher gears (4th and 5th gears), it could be due to various reasons such as low transmission fluid level, restricted fluid flow, or internal mechanical issues within the transmission. Staying in gear 3: If the transmission remains stuck in a particular gear (in your case, gear 3) even when speed and acceleration increase, it could indicate a problem with the shift solenoids, valve body, or internal transmission components responsible for gear selection. Given the complexity of automatic transmissions and the variety of potential issues, it's best to have the vehicle diagnosed by a qualified mechanic or transmission specialist.

A bad oil filter itself typically wouldn't prevent a vehicle from starting. The primary function of an oil filter is to remove contaminants from the engine oil to keep it clean and protect the engine. While a severely clogged or damaged oil filter could potentially restrict oil flow and lead to engine damage over time, it wouldn't directly cause the vehicle not to start.

Yes

p0730 trouble code indicate an issue with the incorrect gear ratio detected in an automatic transmission. This code is usually not directly related to PCV valve

That's true I think that's what's wrong with my sons engine the oil light keeps coming on

Also one had oil crusted on it and other had oil in it

Yes, a malfunctioning PCV valve can potentially cause engine knocking-like sounds. The PCV valve regulates the flow of gases between the crankcase and the intake manifold. If the valve is stuck open or closed, it can lead to various issues, including increased pressure within the crankcase or improper ventilation. Increased crankcase pressure can result in oil leaks, loss of power, and even engine knocking noises. Knocking noises occur when the air-fuel mixture ignites prematurely in the combustion chamber, causing pressure waves that can sound like knocking or pinging.