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This isn’t 1975 grandpa

@@RamzaBeo Based on the symptoms you described, it’s possible that your catalytic converter is involved, but it may not be the sole issue. Let’s analyze the situation: 1) Jerky Turbo and Reduced Performance: This could indicate a restriction in exhaust flow, potentially caused by a clogged or failing catalytic converter. Alternatively, it might point to a misfire or an issue with the air-fuel mixture (like fuel contamination or injector problems). 2) Smell of Unburned Fuel/No Cats: If your catalytic converter is failing or clogged, it might not be processing the exhaust gases properly, leading to a strong smell. This can also be a symptom of incomplete combustion due to misfiring or an overly rich mixture. 3) Rattling and Popping: The rattling could indicate a broken component inside the catalytic converter, such as the ceramic substrate. The excessive popping could result from unburned fuel igniting in the exhaust, which might happen due to improper combustion or a failing turbocharger. 4) Smoke (Grey/Dark): Dark smoke suggests incomplete combustion, which could be caused by a failing turbo, a rich air-fuel mixture, or fuel contamination. If the turbo is compromised, it could be leaking oil, which also produces smoke. Catalytic converter, fuel quality, turbocharger and ignition system are the key culprits. While the catalytic converter is a strong suspect, a full diagnostic will confirm whether it’s the primary issue or if other systems are involved. If possible, avoid driving the car until the problem is addressed to prevent further damage.

@ the only codes that came up where misfires on cylinder 1 and 3. During that night the CEL came on then went off. Then it came on and started flashing. And btw the car is undriveable, the car feels like it’s suffocating when I press on the gas. The only way I was able to get home that night was just allowing the engine to coast me to my house. My turbo never made any whining sounds prior. Plus this is a new turbo. It’s a stuffed K03(golf R) turbo. I also put gas in my car that day too before work. It could also be bad gas too?

@@electrotech7633 no it is not compulsory.. Your car may show other symptoms instead of check engine light in case of a bad cluster

@MechanicalBoost cluster is good i hv boost prblm in diesel car accelrate good but not speed boost at start later loose speed cltch all new fiter egr all ok

Possibly

@@fredlafleur4996 Based on your description, there could be a few reasons why your vehicle is randomly shutting off and then refusing to start for about 15 minutes. Since you've replaced several components, including the fuel pump, coolant temperature sensor, fuel rail sensor, and oxygen sensors, let’s evaluate the possible causes systematically: Symptoms Analysis 1) Randomly dies after 15-20 minutes: Indicates something is failing as the engine warms up. 2) Won't start but cranks: Suggests an electrical, fuel delivery, or sensor issue. 3) Runs when the MAF (Mass Airflow Sensor) is unplugged: Points toward a possible issue with the MAF or its interaction with the PCM. Possible Causes 1) PCM (Powertrain Control Module): If the PCM is faulty or overheating, it can cause the engine to shut down and not restart until it cools down.The PCM controls engine timing, fuel injection, and sensors like the MAF. If unplugging the MAF prevents the stalling, the PCM may be compensating for a sensor miscommunication. 2) Crankshaft Position Sensor: A failing crankshaft position sensor can behave exactly as described-working fine until it warms up, then causing the engine to die and refuse to start until it cools down. Look for stored trouble codes related to the crankshaft or camshaft sensors. 3) Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF): The fact that unplugging the MAF allows the car to keep running is significant. It could mean the MAF is faulty or the PCM is not interpreting its signal correctly. Try cleaning or replacing the MAF if not already done. 4) Ignition System: A failing ignition coil or module can also shut the engine off after warming up. Test the coils or ignition module for heat-related failure. 5) Fuel System (Despite New Pump): Fuel injectors or fuel pressure regulators might be malfunctioning. Test the fuel pressure when the car refuses to start to ensure it's within specifications. 6) Electrical/Relays: A failing main relay (often called the ECM relay or fuel pump relay) could cause these symptoms. Heat may cause internal contacts to fail, cutting off power to critical systems. Next Steps 1) Run a Diagnostic Scan: Check for stored error codes using an OBD2 scanner. This can pinpoint issues with sensors like the crankshaft position sensor, MAF, or PCM. 2) Test the Crankshaft Position Sensor: Use a multimeter to test its resistance or a scanner to monitor its signal while the engine is running. 3) Inspect the MAF Sensor: Clean the MAF sensor using a dedicated MAF cleaner. If cleaning doesn’t help, try replacing it temporarily to rule it out. 4) Test Ignition Coils and Relays: Check the ignition coils for weak spark after the vehicle stalls. Test relays with a multimeter to ensure they aren't heat-sensitive. 5) Inspect PCM and Wiring: Look for signs of overheating or corrosion around the PCM. Check ground connections and harnesses for damage or poor contact. Why PCM May Be the Culprit The PCM is directly involved in processing inputs from various sensors (MAF, crankshaft, oxygen sensors) and controlling the engine. If the PCM has an intermittent fault, especially heat-related, it can cause random stalling and hard starts. If diagnostic tests point to the PCM, you may need to reprogram or replace it. Ensure that wiring and grounds are intact before committing to a PCM replacement

@@CJ_DeSilva no misfire

@@Linkswift33 No, it's not necessarily a death sentence for your engine, but it is important to act quickly and thoroughly to prevent potential damage. Here's what you need to do: 1) Flush the Cooling System Again I) Even if you’ve already flushed it, a single flush may not have removed all the oil. Perform multiple flushes using a proper radiator flush solution. This helps dissolve any oil residues left in the system. II) Make sure to use distilled water during the final flush to prevent mineral deposits. 2) Clean the Reservoir I) Remove the reservoir tank (if possible) and clean it thoroughly with a degreaser or dish soap that can cut through oil. Rinse it well before reinstalling. 3) Inspect the Cooling System Check hoses, the radiator, and other parts for any lingering oil contamination. Oil can degrade rubber components, so inspect for soft or swollen hoses and replace them if needed. 4.) Refill with Coolant After flushing thoroughly, refill the system with the correct type of coolant as specified in your vehicle’s manual. 5.) Monitor Performance Keep an eye on the coolant reservoir for any signs of oil reappearing. If it does, it could indicate a deeper issue, such as: I) A failing head gasket (allowing oil and coolant to mix internally). II) A cracked cylinder head/block or an issue with the oil cooler, if your vehicle has one.

@@victorn6523 After a head gasket replacement, if your car misfires for about a minute and then stalls and turns off, there are several potential issues that could cause this behavior. Here's a breakdown of possible causes: 1) Incorrect Timing I) During the head gasket replacement, the timing belt or chain may have been disturbed. If the timing is off, the engine may misfire and struggle to run. II) Check to ensure the timing marks on the camshaft(s) and crankshaft are properly aligned. 2) Vacuum Leaks I) A vacuum leak can occur if intake manifold gaskets, hoses, or connections were not properly reinstalled after the repair. II) Inspect all vacuum hoses, intake manifold gaskets, and the throttle body for leaks. 3) Faulty or Incorrectly Installed Sensors I) Sensors such as the crankshaft position sensor, camshaft position sensor, or mass airflow sensor (MAF) might have been damaged or improperly reconnected during the repair. II) Use a diagnostic tool to check for sensor-related error codes. 4) Improper Cylinder Compression I) If the head gasket was not installed correctly, or if the cylinder head was not properly torqued, it could lead to low or uneven compression in one or more cylinders. II) Perform a compression test to confirm even compression across all cylinders. 5) Fuel Delivery Problems I) The fuel injectors or fuel lines may have been disturbed during the repair, causing inadequate fuel delivery. II) Check the fuel pressure and inspect the injectors for proper operation. 6) Ignition System Issues I) Ignition coils, spark plugs, or wires may have been damaged or not properly connected during the repair.

I just had the same happen after replacing my head gasket on a 2011 diesel Hyundai i20. It's been a long journey getting it done and having this issue come up just makes me want to scrap it.

@VicJanczkowski I just found out that it burn my fuse box as well as fuel pump overheating and changed my sparks plugs and ignition coil it's good

@@alfredomarquez9777 Thanks for sharing your knowledge

@@smailboumrar8992 Oil in your turbocharger's boost sensor can be a sign of an issue, usually related to your engine’s ventilation or turbocharger system. Here are some possible reasons: 1) PCV System Issues: If the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system is malfunctioning, it can allow oil mist from the crankcase to enter the intake, which can then reach the turbo and boost sensor. 2) Turbo Seals: Worn or damaged seals within the turbocharger can allow oil to leak into the intake tract, eventually reaching the boost sensor. This is especially common in high-mileage or heavily used turbochargers. 3) Excessive Blow-By: If there's excessive blow-by from worn piston rings, more oil vapor can be pushed into the intake, potentially reaching the boost sensor. 4) Oil Accumulation in Intercooler: Over time, oil mist from the intake system can accumulate in the intercooler and travel into the turbo system, leading to contamination in sensors along the path. 5) Poor Maintenance or Clogged Filters: If your air filters or oil separators are dirty or clogged, they may not be filtering out oil mist properly, allowing it to enter the intake.

@@01.......... The recurring C0298 and P1120 codes, even after fixing a damaged wire, suggest that there may still be an underlying issue with the wiring or connectors. Here’s what each code generally means and what could be causing them to reappear: C0298 Code: This code is typically related to the Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM) or the Stability System. It often indicates an issue in the EBCM circuit, such as a bad ground, poor connection, or damaged wiring. P1120 Code: This code often points to a Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) or Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) sensor issue. It can mean a problem in the wiring or connection to the sensor, or even an issue with the sensor itself. Since you've already repaired a damaged wire, the fact that the codes return after cycling the ignition might suggest: 1)Loose or corroded connectors: The repaired wiring might be good, but a connector could be loose, corroded, or otherwise not making a consistent connection. 2) Faulty ground: Many electrical issues stem from a poor ground connection. Double-check the ground points related to the EBCM and TPS sensors. 3) Damaged sensor or module: If the wiring and connections seem solid, the sensors or control modules themselves (EBCM or TPS) could be faulty. Troubleshooting Steps 1) Inspect Connectors: Unplug and check all relevant connectors for the TPS and EBCM for corrosion, bent pins, or looseness. Clean and reseat them. 2) Check Ground Connections: Locate and clean the ground connections associated with the EBCM and TPS circuits. 3) Test Sensor Output: If possible, check the output voltage from the TPS sensor to ensure it's consistent and within the specified range. 4) Check Wiring Continuity: Use a multimeter to test for continuity from the repaired wire to the sensor/module and to the ECM to confirm there are no other breaks or shorts in the line.

@@tots_657 Yeah it is possible but you should also keep an eye on other symptoms

@@jh.1528 no I just explain the common symptoms that are usually found due to bad converter

@@MartinMotaung-g8d Then you should replace your pcv valve

@@Cagbaiho Welcome. Thanks for watching

@@BrunoBMS Yes, a melted catalytic converter can cause engine misfires. When a catalytic converter melts, it often becomes partially or fully blocked, restricting the exhaust flow. This creates excessive backpressure in the exhaust system, which disrupts the engine’s ability to expel exhaust gases efficiently. Here’s how it leads to misfires: Reduced Exhaust Flow: Excessive backpressure affects the air-fuel mixture in the combustion chamber. When exhaust gases can't exit properly, they can interfere with the fresh intake air, leading to an inefficient combustion cycle. Overheating: Blocked converters can increase exhaust gas temperature, causing the engine to run hotter. This can damage components, including spark plugs and ignition coils, leading to misfires. Oxygen Sensor Issues: A malfunctioning catalytic converter can also affect downstream oxygen sensors, which measure exhaust gas composition. This can cause incorrect adjustments to the air-fuel mixture by the engine control module, leading to poor combustion and misfires.

@@MechanicalBoost thanks a lot, i really appreciate your explanation 🙏.That makes sense, because i forgot to tell you that the engine is overheating, and i changed the O2 sensor, the spark plugs and one ignition coil because was demaged.Anyway..i have one more question:assuming that my catalytic converter is melted, why this missfire is only on the 4th cylinder all the time?

@@BrunoBMS When misfires consistently happen in a specific cylinder, like cylinder 4, it could be due to a few reasons: Exhaust Flow Dynamics: The layout of the exhaust manifold or the catalytic converter might cause cylinder 4 to be more sensitive to any restrictions or back pressure, making it more prone to misfire when airflow is blocked. Heat Buildup: If cylinder 4 is farther away from the cooling system's main flow, it might be more prone to overheating under increased back pressure, leading to a higher likelihood of misfire. Fuel/Air Mixture Distribution: In some engines, certain cylinders (like cylinder 4) may receive a different fuel/air mixture than others, especially under conditions where exhaust back pressure is affecting overall engine performance. Pre-existing Weakness: If cylinder 4 has a spark plug, coil, or fuel injector that is slightly worn or weak, the additional stress from the back pressure might be enough to push it into consistent misfire territory. If you’re experiencing repeated misfires in cylinder 4 with a melted catalytic converter, it’s a good idea to inspect not only the exhaust system but also the ignition and fuel systems in that cylinder to rule out any additional issues.

@@MechanicalBoost Can the catalyst be melted if the nox test comes out ok?

@@sauceploxx4565 again Properly inspect your coils and spark plugs and all other parts discussed in the video.. Hopefully your issue will be resolved