Dude seriously? You wanted to show the world a simple technique to getting a key unstuck but somewhere in your head you went all Steven Spielberg on us with combining it with a Libtard apocalypse. OMG the production value of this is tremendous. 4 thumbs up.
So... this is partly true, but there are other reasons. If you're having significant trouble inserting the key, then yes, lubrication is the easiest thing to try first. However, a lot of time the reason you can't remove your key, especially on non-padlock cylinders, is because the retaining cap is loose, or it's that the two screws securing the actuating tailpiece to the back of the key cylinder are loose. The ability to insert the key, turn the cylinder core, and then remove the key requires a specific amount of in/out "play" to be there. If there is too much tension, it binds the moving parts and prevents correct function. If there is too little tension, then the core of the cylinder, the part that rotates, will be able to move in and out too much. This creates a situation akin to one of those finger trap toys that won't let you simply pull your fingers apart in order to get them out. In a lock, there are different length pins that correspond to the depth of the valleys in your key. When you insert the correct key in the lock, all of those pins sit in the bottom of those valleys and create a level surface that is the same height as the lock core, which is called the "shear line". That is why you can turn it, at that point. When the retaining cap/screws on the back of the core allow too much in/out movement, it allows the key to start lifting those pins above the shear line and into the main housing that holds the spring loaded "driver pins" and prevents the key from being removed since the harder you pull on the key, the more trapped those pins become. So, to remove your key you'll have to push the core into the lock cylinder with one hand and then use the other hand to pull the key out. This will simulate having the correct tension on the core, allowing the key to be removed. If this is what is happening, you'll either have to call a locksmith to repair it, or you can do it yourself if you feel confident in your mechanical abilities. If your lock has a spring loaded pin engaging a geared cap on the back of the core, you'll need to press that pin down and turn the cap until it's tight, then you loosen it 2 notches, allow the retaining pin to seat, and test the key. If it turns smoothly with no drag, and you can remove your key with no issues, you're set. If it sticks a bit when you try to pull out the key, tighten the cap 1 notch, and if it feels a bit tight when you turn the key, loosen it one notch. If you have screws holding a tailpiece in place, just tighten the screws and you're done. I'm a locksmith, and this is one of the more common issues i see. As for lubrication, stay away from WD-40 as it tends to get really sticky when it dries, which causes the lock to bind up. I really like tri-flow, super lube, or Houdini lock lubricant. Everyone used to use powdered graphite, but i don't like it because it's SUPER messy and has s tendency to clog up the lock, especially if you accidentally use too much.
The video is really about lubricating locks, but we are making some zombie features that should be out in a few months. I don't think many people would watch it for 30 seconds of fake zombies. But we hope people watch it for the locks and enjoy the zombies.
Dude seriously? You wanted to show the world a simple technique to getting a key unstuck but somewhere in your head you went all Steven Spielberg on us with combining it with a Libtard apocalypse. OMG the production value of this is tremendous. 4 thumbs up.
Yeah, that is the problem when you work for a guy (mr dog poop) that thinks he is Stephen Spielberg.
I'm pretty sure the zombie apocalypse has been here for a while.
THANK YOU! That is my belief as well. Exactly why we have an 8' zombie wall and steel gate to keep the zombies out.
So... this is partly true, but there are other reasons. If you're having significant trouble inserting the key, then yes, lubrication is the easiest thing to try first.
However, a lot of time the reason you can't remove your key, especially on non-padlock cylinders, is because the retaining cap is loose, or it's that the two screws securing the actuating tailpiece to the back of the key cylinder are loose.
The ability to insert the key, turn the cylinder core, and then remove the key requires a specific amount of in/out "play" to be there. If there is too much tension, it binds the moving parts and prevents correct function. If there is too little tension, then the core of the cylinder, the part that rotates, will be able to move in and out too much.
This creates a situation akin to one of those finger trap toys that won't let you simply pull your fingers apart in order to get them out. In a lock, there are different length pins that correspond to the depth of the valleys in your key. When you insert the correct key in the lock, all of those pins sit in the bottom of those valleys and create a level surface that is the same height as the lock core, which is called the "shear line". That is why you can turn it, at that point.
When the retaining cap/screws on the back of the core allow too much in/out movement, it allows the key to start lifting those pins above the shear line and into the main housing that holds the spring loaded "driver pins" and prevents the key from being removed since the harder you pull on the key, the more trapped those pins become.
So, to remove your key you'll have to push the core into the lock cylinder with one hand and then use the other hand to pull the key out. This will simulate having the correct tension on the core, allowing the key to be removed.
If this is what is happening, you'll either have to call a locksmith to repair it, or you can do it yourself if you feel confident in your mechanical abilities. If your lock has a spring loaded pin engaging a geared cap on the back of the core, you'll need to press that pin down and turn the cap until it's tight, then you loosen it 2 notches, allow the retaining pin to seat, and test the key. If it turns smoothly with no drag, and you can remove your key with no issues, you're set. If it sticks a bit when you try to pull out the key, tighten the cap 1 notch, and if it feels a bit tight when you turn the key, loosen it one notch.
If you have screws holding a tailpiece in place, just tighten the screws and you're done.
I'm a locksmith, and this is one of the more common issues i see.
As for lubrication, stay away from WD-40 as it tends to get really sticky when it dries, which causes the lock to bind up. I really like tri-flow, super lube, or Houdini lock lubricant. Everyone used to use powdered graphite, but i don't like it because it's SUPER messy and has s tendency to clog up the lock, especially if you accidentally use too much.
WOW! Thanks for the detail, I hope some people read it. It all sounds a little complicated but point taken, call a locksmith.
Didn't know that this was so complicated. Great details! Very useful!!
Very educational. Very entertaining. 🎬👍
We try to keep them interesting as well as expanding our skills in film making. This one was just us having fun.
Simple Video Title + Zombies + Humor
10/10
The video is really about lubricating locks, but we are making some zombie features that should be out in a few months. I don't think many people would watch it for 30 seconds of fake zombies. But we hope people watch it for the locks and enjoy the zombies.
Wish I have seen this before. Broke my key off last week.