I have a 1999 Mazda B3000. It pretty much is a Ford ranger. I have had a parasitic current draw for years, I mean for a decade or more. If I was going on vacation for more than a week, I would have to disconnect the battery. I did this so often that I wrote the size of the nut driver on the top of the battery. I used the nut driver to remove the positive battery cable. Anyway, today I tried to trouble shoot it again. I was wanting to pull fuse 29 and I pulled 25 by mistake. The current went to zero. That led me to this video. Thanks for taking the time to post it. I will have to research the gem module behind the radio.
Does a 2000 Ford Ranger XLT 3.0 v6 have that same relay? Mine goes out periodically as if starter or alternator is going out but auto store claimed it could be parasitic draw. If it starts after sitting all night could it still be parasitic draw??
Good question. Hard to say without seeing but you could try a parasitic draw test. I can't remember if I have a video on it or if that test is included in this video. I think a draw over a quarter amp or so would be considered high.
It would be fuse 26 in that panel on a 2000 ranger. There are about 7 hidden relays under the dash. The battery saver relay is directly under the glove box.
I also have a 2000 Ford Ranger XLT 3.0 V.6 with the same problem. I pulled fuse #26 and the parasitic draw went away. I don’t know what is sucking power through fuse #26 since it could be the BSR, ARB, RCM, GEM, or instrument cluster.
@@Punisher-1 My bad for the late reply. I deduced that it was an issue with the battery terminals. I replaced the battery cable terminals and had no more issues. It is highly unlikely that it was a parasitic drain issue to begin with. I apologize.
This was a bad video from years ago and I apologize. The likely issue is in the gem module behind the radio. Research gem module as well as speedometer issues. I have a video on it but not edited yet. Thanks for watching
I have a 96 Explorer, could this be the problem with mine? Also, does anyone have any idea why it stops running while driving down the interstate, then once I get stopped, it starts right back up and will run fine, 7 or 8 to 60 or 70 miles, then do it again?🤔 it just shuts down when it feels like it, but I don't have to wait, like to let anything cool down, it just starts right back up and goes
Bad electrical connection "somewhere". These are notoriously hard to find. I had that symptom many years ago with a vehicle and couldn't figure it out my self (most things I can diagnose and fix). The way it was found was to leave it with a very good mechanic for 10 days who used it as his daily drive car and kept diagnostic equipment in the vehicle at all times to help trouble shoot. In my case, there was a wire that was rubbing against metal as it went through the engine compartment firewall. The insulation was partially worn off and occasionally was grounding out, but it did not blow any fuses or cause any other damage or symptoms, just made the engine stop. One of the most difficult issues to diagnose the mechanic said he had seen. I don't recall how much it cost me as it was decades ago, but nearly all of the expense was in the diagnostic, the repair was cheap by comparison.
@@Zeric1 I think I may have fixed the issue, I ended up with a new cps and left the battery unhooked for 30 minutes then put heet in the tank and drove the crap out of it, so far it's been ok, knock on wood, but you are right about the electrical in these thing's, they will drive you bat shit crazy 😳
If your county library has alldata then you can look up the wiring diagram there or a Haines manual . You may be able to buy these manuals from most auto parts stores like autozone, advanced, orileys, usually the manuals that the parts stores sell have the complete wiring diagrams.
This 96 I have is stupid with the wiring, it's the first generation of obd2 and most of the scanners won't acknowledge them. And if you have a problem with the wiring, it will do something different just about every time you start it. Mine has driven me bat shit crazy 😳
My truck died on me while driving my battery indicator was low but my battery not even a year old and new alternator so I found that relay but my battery might be dead now but I don't know what else it would be. I looked everywhere.
@@BlakesGarage1 I think it might be the gem module for sure because I had to run my own relay and wires to the fuel pump when I first got the truck 3 years ago because no power was coming through the wires to the fuel pump. Then I installed a new radio hooked it up but every so often it shorts out and resets. Iv looked everywhere for a bad ground but cannot find anything.
@@BlakesGarage1 well I'm getting a flat battery now I think I burnt the module more by trying to jump my truck to see if it was something else I don't smell anything burnt but those relays you showed in the video kept clicking on and off then the beeping kept going after taking out the key out as well where exactly is the speedometer connection at?
@@picassosweetsproducer4426 the gem is behind the radio on the left side. Adjacent to the steering wheel. Otherwise speedometer can be removed with the screws above the gauges. By doing a parasitic draw test, unplug the gem to see if that's the culprit. Or even Gem fuse for starters
If you have a volt meter, check the volts DC between battery positive and battery negative with the truck off. Then with the truck running, check voltage from battery negative to both battery positive and tye positive post of the alternator. If the voltage is the same as with the truck off and also the same in all three test locations, you're alternator is shot. A parts store can sometimes test the alternator in the truck to determine whether it has a failed component which can be replaced or if it needs an entire alternator assembly.
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I have a 1999 Mazda B3000. It pretty much is a Ford ranger. I have had a parasitic current draw for years, I mean for a decade or more. If I was going on vacation for more than a week, I would have to disconnect the battery. I did this so often that I wrote the size of the nut driver on the top of the battery. I used the nut driver to remove the positive battery cable. Anyway, today I tried to trouble shoot it again. I was wanting to pull fuse 29 and I pulled 25 by mistake. The current went to zero. That led me to this video. Thanks for taking the time to post it. I will have to research the gem module behind the radio.
Thank you dude!!! I was starting to go nuts!!
Excellent job, I'll give it a try.
Will it affect in any way if that relay that you took off stays off?
Would've been helpful to actually see you do the repair.
Good video, I have a ranger 96 like this video, can you tell me where is located the modulo DIS. I coulden't fine it.
How do I replace the interior side fuse box I have my Ford ranger fuse box but the fuse is loose
Does a 2000 Ford Ranger XLT 3.0 v6 have that same relay? Mine goes out periodically as if starter or alternator is going out but auto store claimed it could be parasitic draw. If it starts after sitting all night could it still be parasitic draw??
Good question. Hard to say without seeing but you could try a parasitic draw test. I can't remember if I have a video on it or if that test is included in this video. I think a draw over a quarter amp or so would be considered high.
It would be fuse 26 in that panel on a 2000 ranger. There are about 7 hidden relays under the dash. The battery saver relay is directly under the glove box.
I also have a 2000 Ford Ranger XLT 3.0 V.6 with the same problem. I pulled fuse #26 and the parasitic draw went away. I don’t know what is sucking power through fuse #26 since it could be the BSR, ARB, RCM, GEM, or instrument cluster.
@@GSBW_ Did you ever figure out the parasitic draw in your truck? In having the same issue with fuse 26.
@@Punisher-1 My bad for the late reply. I deduced that it was an issue with the battery terminals. I replaced the battery cable terminals and had no more issues. It is highly unlikely that it was a parasitic drain issue to begin with. I apologize.
Danger Ranger
So you pulled the relay and what stopped working, and how did you fix the problem?
This was a bad video from years ago and I apologize. The likely issue is in the gem module behind the radio. Research gem module as well as speedometer issues. I have a video on it but not edited yet. Thanks for watching
Looking forward to the new video@@BlakesGarage1
I have a 96 Explorer, could this be the problem with mine? Also, does anyone have any idea why it stops running while driving down the interstate, then once I get stopped, it starts right back up and will run fine, 7 or 8 to 60 or 70 miles, then do it again?🤔 it just shuts down when it feels like it, but I don't have to wait, like to let anything cool down, it just starts right back up and goes
Bad electrical connection "somewhere". These are notoriously hard to find. I had that symptom many years ago with a vehicle and couldn't figure it out my self (most things I can diagnose and fix). The way it was found was to leave it with a very good mechanic for 10 days who used it as his daily drive car and kept diagnostic equipment in the vehicle at all times to help trouble shoot. In my case, there was a wire that was rubbing against metal as it went through the engine compartment firewall. The insulation was partially worn off and occasionally was grounding out, but it did not blow any fuses or cause any other damage or symptoms, just made the engine stop. One of the most difficult issues to diagnose the mechanic said he had seen.
I don't recall how much it cost me as it was decades ago, but nearly all of the expense was in the diagnostic, the repair was cheap by comparison.
@@Zeric1 I think I may have fixed the issue, I ended up with a new cps and left the battery unhooked for 30 minutes then put heet in the tank and drove the crap out of it, so far it's been ok, knock on wood, but you are right about the electrical in these thing's, they will drive you bat shit crazy 😳
If your county library has alldata then you can look up the wiring diagram there or a Haines manual . You may be able to buy these manuals from most auto parts stores like autozone, advanced, orileys, usually the manuals that the parts stores sell have the complete wiring diagrams.
This 96 I have is stupid with the wiring, it's the first generation of obd2 and most of the scanners won't acknowledge them. And if you have a problem with the wiring, it will do something different just about every time you start it. Mine has driven me bat shit crazy 😳
My door now wont close anymore. Thanks alot dude 👎
Just pulled the door handle and the latch will unlock itself
That's cuz youre dumb
My truck died on me while driving my battery indicator was low but my battery not even a year old and new alternator so I found that relay but my battery might be dead now but I don't know what else it would be. I looked everywhere.
Working on a new video for this but check into gem module and speedometer causing battery drain
@@BlakesGarage1 I think it might be the gem module for sure because I had to run my own relay and wires to the fuel pump when I first got the truck 3 years ago because no power was coming through the wires to the fuel pump. Then I installed a new radio hooked it up but every so often it shorts out and resets. Iv looked everywhere for a bad ground but cannot find anything.
@@picassosweetsproducer4426 money ended up being speedometer. Smell yours and see if it smells burnt
@@BlakesGarage1 well I'm getting a flat battery now I think I burnt the module more by trying to jump my truck to see if it was something else I don't smell anything burnt but those relays you showed in the video kept clicking on and off then the beeping kept going after taking out the key out as well where exactly is the speedometer connection at?
@@picassosweetsproducer4426 the gem is behind the radio on the left side. Adjacent to the steering wheel. Otherwise speedometer can be removed with the screws above the gauges. By doing a parasitic draw test, unplug the gem to see if that's the culprit. Or even Gem fuse for starters
My truck does not charge
If you have a volt meter, check the volts DC between battery positive and battery negative with the truck off. Then with the truck running, check voltage from battery negative to both battery positive and tye positive post of the alternator. If the voltage is the same as with the truck off and also the same in all three test locations, you're alternator is shot. A parts store can sometimes test the alternator in the truck to determine whether it has a failed component which can be replaced or if it needs an entire alternator assembly.