Nice tutorial. Some extras thrown in but didn’t drag on. Some people complain about ticking from injectors on these, easy to see how it would be difficult to know just by ear as they’re right beside the cams. Also realized from this I need to source that support bracket for my intake. Thanks.
great video! I have the same car but yours looks so much better. It's reassuring to know that even if/when I do this, not to worry if/when I still hear that ticking noise. Thank you for your honesty and through explanations. Very Informative, nice!
Thanks for the feedback... and yes, the ticking is not uncommon with high mileage engines. Injectors are also to blame in some cases. You still want to do a valve adjustment around 15K mile intervals if possible.
Hello from Orlando, Florida! I have a 1987 E30 Vert and with the 2.5 Liter. The ticking is just normal until the Engine Warms up. Trying some better quality Oil can help as well.
The Bentley Manual lists the correct valve clearance at 0.30mm 0.012in with the engine hot, or 0.25mm 0.010in with the engine cold. In case anyone wanted to know
i think you need to redo it. sounds louder. sometimes a bit tighter is a little better especially if your motor is high mileage. also your headstuds need a update. the studs were revised with a stud that has a head like "*". the ones your car are prone to breaking.just for the future if you ever redo the head
The audio in the video does make it sound louder than before, but in reality it sounds pretty much the same. I still plan to give it another shot though. Will take your advice and adjust to err on the tighter side. I will be replacing the studs whenever I take the head off in in the future, I can use a new head gasket as well.
The right thing to do would have been to put them aside and away from the engine for sure :) However, it would not be an issue if a bolt fell into the head while it was open as long as you knew about it and removed it before you closed it.
NoGaragE30 otherwise very helpful. Appreciate the effort you made. Just realized I didn’t get the rocker end caps. So the job has to wait. I’ll replace the breather pipe as well along with cleaning and detailing the cover to make it look pretty.
I don't know how many of these valve adjustment videos I have watched... not one has explained it thoroughly. 1. Cylinder 1 intake - adjust once the lobe is pointed straight down? 2. Then don't move anything and move to the Exhaust side and adjust? OR roll the engine to get the Exhaust lobe facing down then adjust? 3. Adjust in numerical sequence or firing order sequence? 4. If we roll the engine to make each lobe face down, then it would take 12 rolls and 12 adjustments done in numerical sequence. But if we do it in firing order, then it would take only 6 rolls and 12 adjustments... I read the Bentley manual and it also doesn't make this clear.
@@cameronferraro6737 "Once you're done with the first one, make sure you rotate the camshaft to get back to top dead center and adjust the other one." This is exactly what I am talking about. Are you talking about the next valve in firing order, or are you talking about the same valve but the exhaust? And... why would you need to go back to top dead center for that lobe you just adjusted, since it would already be at top dead center? That makes no sense. So, more clear would be: "Once the first lobe is adjusted, proceed to the exhaust side lobe of the same valve and turn that lobe to top dead center and make that adjustment. Then repeat the same process in firing order that was listed previously in this video." While I appreciate your efforts to post videos to help the public, your passive aggressive insult is unnecessary. I posted my comments because I genuinely was confused by your words and wanted to clarify.
Nice tutorial. Some extras thrown in but didn’t drag on. Some people complain about ticking from injectors on these, easy to see how it would be difficult to know just by ear as they’re right beside the cams. Also realized from this I need to source that support bracket for my intake. Thanks.
From this comment I also realize i meed a support bracket 😂
great video! I have the same car but yours looks so much better. It's reassuring to know that even if/when I do this, not to worry if/when I still hear that ticking noise. Thank you for your honesty and through explanations. Very Informative, nice!
Thanks for the feedback... and yes, the ticking is not uncommon with high mileage engines. Injectors are also to blame in some cases. You still want to do a valve adjustment around 15K mile intervals if possible.
Good job and again, really clear and informative. Looking forward to seeing the refurb video on that cam cover!
Well done video. Very clear step by step instructions.
Glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching!
Hello from Orlando, Florida! I have a 1987 E30 Vert and with the 2.5 Liter. The ticking is just normal until the Engine Warms up. Trying some better quality Oil can help as well.
Carlos Marin same experience, and I'm also in South Fl lol. I use LiquiMoly 10w-40 with mos2, you?
Many people do run oil that’s too thin in these. They call for something like 10w 50 even in moderately warm climates.
It's louder after your adjustment....
but thanks.... nice video , clear and good description of everything 👌😎
Thanks. It is actually slightly better after the adjustment. No way to tell from audio recording in these conditions and quality level anyways.
The Bentley Manual lists the correct valve clearance at 0.30mm 0.012in with the engine hot, or 0.25mm 0.010in with the engine cold. In case anyone wanted to know
Great info
Thanks
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching.
i think you need to redo it. sounds louder. sometimes a bit tighter is a little better especially if your motor is high mileage.
also your headstuds need a update. the studs were revised with a stud that has a head like "*". the ones your car are prone to breaking.just for the future if you ever redo the head
The audio in the video does make it sound louder than before, but in reality it sounds pretty much the same. I still plan to give it another shot though. Will take your advice and adjust to err on the tighter side. I will be replacing the studs whenever I take the head off in in the future, I can use a new head gasket as well.
Are you like crazy to put the loose cover bolts where they might fall into the engine. Yikes I know me I’d drop something in?
The right thing to do would have been to put them aside and away from the engine for sure :) However, it would not be an issue if a bolt fell into the head while it was open as long as you knew about it and removed it before you closed it.
NoGaragE30 otherwise very helpful. Appreciate the effort you made. Just realized I didn’t get the rocker end caps. So the job has to wait. I’ll replace the breather pipe as well along with cleaning and detailing the cover to make it look pretty.
Sounds electrical - have you changed the distributor cap and rotor?
I have not, but thanks for the tip!
When doing this in the firing order, does each cylinder need to be at tdc and how would you do that?
Yes, you have to find TDC for each cylider and valve bedore adjusting. The answer is at 2:36
When you do this The pistons is also at tdc??
That is what it means, yes. When you rotate each cylinder the piston ends up at TDC for the valves to be closed.
I don't know how many of these valve adjustment videos I have watched... not one has explained it thoroughly.
1. Cylinder 1 intake - adjust once the lobe is pointed straight down?
2. Then don't move anything and move to the Exhaust side and adjust? OR roll the engine to get the Exhaust lobe facing down then adjust?
3. Adjust in numerical sequence or firing order sequence?
4. If we roll the engine to make each lobe face down, then it would take 12 rolls and 12 adjustments done in numerical sequence. But if we do it in firing order, then it would take only 6 rolls and 12 adjustments...
I read the Bentley manual and it also doesn't make this clear.
I’m late so I hope you figured how to watch a video. Every question you have was answered in this video dude😂
@@cameronferraro6737 "Once you're done with the first one, make sure you rotate the camshaft to get back to top dead center and adjust the other one."
This is exactly what I am talking about. Are you talking about the next valve in firing order, or are you talking about the same valve but the exhaust?
And... why would you need to go back to top dead center for that lobe you just adjusted, since it would already be at top dead center? That makes no sense.
So, more clear would be: "Once the first lobe is adjusted, proceed to the exhaust side lobe of the same valve and turn that lobe to top dead center and make that adjustment. Then repeat the same process in firing order that was listed previously in this video."
While I appreciate your efforts to post videos to help the public, your passive aggressive insult is unnecessary. I posted my comments because I genuinely was confused by your words and wanted to clarify.