0:19 OH yeah, exactly what i was picturing in my head!! i just the other day used an angle grinder for the first time and *boy* does it make heavy duty sanding easy!!!
That was so much fun to watch. JD and I started the DIY Climbing Holds group and are grateful for this post. Keep the videos coming. I would love to see a video on how you made that pocket hold. I’m a subscriber for life.
Thanks again Brother. Have had my own wall for the past 20 years in 3 different houses...now is by far the smallest but I live 10 minutes from Smugglers Notch, VT...these are so aesthetic and just sweet. Way kinder to the skin when training a lot in doors. Stay healthy and keep climbing and posting!
Awesome work, and very nice proceeding. It make sense to use de band saw at first and then to sand with the flap disks. My daughter is going to enjoy at lot this holds, Thanks!!!
Thanks Michael! It's basically two pieces of plywood. I drilled a bolt hole through both, hammered a T-nut in (the T-nut is in the middle), and glued both pieces of plywood together. Then I screwed the whole stack to the metal plate that came with the Carver's Vise. I can explain it in more detail in the next video! Cheers
if you haven't yet, you shd start a brand. your product is top quality the first time! imagine doing this repeatedly for a month. with a few more hands, youd be having a competitive biz. great work Sir!
Cheers man! I've been selling holds via my website www.wurft.com . At the moment, everything is out of stock because we moved from New Zealand to Germany but in a couple of weeks I will list new holds! Have a great week Sir!
Thanks! I'm using the belt sander to create the basic and smooth shape very quickly. Afterwards I only carve the edges, I don't change the "fingerprint" of the holds. For me, this approach is faster than carving first and using the belt sander afterwards.
Those holds look really good! I'm curious why you use the sanding pad on your drill, wouldn't it be enoigh to only use the small detail sanding machine? And what grains are you using on both pads?
Thanks!! I want to finish my holds with a smooth surface. The sanding pad (80 grit) removes material way faster than the detail sander (60 or 80 grit). In case you want to finish with a little bit of texture you can skip the sanding pad. But the chance of getting splinters is higher if you skip the pad. If you want to have some texture I would rather use the pad to create texture.
@@wurfttobias Thx for the reply. I guess im gonna try some.things out with the different machines I have and different grids to see what works best for me
Very nice work. What are your thoughts on 1) type/kind of wood, 2) orientation of the grain relative to the expected direction of pull, and 3) Location of bolt and;/or screen holes relative to expected direction of pull on the hold. Thanks again.
Great video!! I'm in Auckland too and planing on making a home wall. Where do you get the off cuts from? do you go to a timber yard of just off trademe?
I think you’re doing a great video and a real help for climbers in these times to make their own holds, which disc are you using in your grinder? I have seen some expensive ones for carving from arbor tech and similar, am sure they are really good but wonder if a more affordable disc works okay too
Thanks! :) I'm using the Holey Galahad flat medium disc from King Arthur's Tools. Also worked with the Arbortech Turbo Plane which is more aggressive and doesn't give you such a smooth finish. I have no experience with cheap discs but I don't expect them to be that much different. But they might not last as long. Keep it up!
Tobias W thanks for the reply, I’m going to have a try with a bandsaw and rasps/sander for now I think, the discs are £95 uk or about $200 nz dollars here and I’m not sure yet if I’d get wider use, look forward to more of your holds videos really useful. Jed
@@jedkai29 You could also consider starting with a japanese hand saw and a more aggressive disc for the angle grinder instead of buying a band saw. I think that's cheaper and it might be more efficient...
Tobias W thanks again, I managed to do a pinch this evening after work, just used a hand saw and rasps. It’s not as neat as yours but went ok. I just have a bench vice so screwed it into a longer piece to lift it.
@@jedkai29 Cool!! Sounds good. Not starting with fancy tools is a good way to find the right techniques and then you can start buying tools. That's how I did it.
Thanks! That's the Veritas Carvers Vise with the 2" Mounting Plate. One of the first links to a shop that show up on google: www.leevalley.com/en-gb/shop/tools/workshop/workbenches/vises/31172-veritas-carvers-vise
Buenas , es una pasada y un gran trabajo. En el minuto 5:31 como se llama el acople ese para la sujeción de la presa en el gato . Un saludo y sigue inculcando sabiduría
Gracias! Me ha venido genial el enlace Otra pregunta, qué tipo de maderas trabajas? Yo dispongo aquí de mucha encina, sería una madera tratable, o recomiendas otra? Gracias de nuevo, un saludo
@@7bmaneras El roble es bueno. Pero es una madera bastante dura, por lo que la madera más blanda es típicamente más fácil de trabajar. (Lo siento si mi español no tiene sentido, solo estoy usando el traductor de Google) :)
@@wurfttobias vale es bueno saberlo, como te dije aquí dispongo de mucha encina probaré a ver qué tal se trabaja, aún así buscaré diferentes maderas El acople que usas en el VERITAS CARVERS para anclar las presas, es casero? Tu Español es de 10 , como si fueras de aquí de toda la vida ;)
@@7bmaneras Sí, el archivo adjunto es casero. Consiste en dos láminas de madera contrachapada atornilladas. Se perfora un agujero a través de ambas piezas de madera contrachapada y se coloca una tuerca en T en el centro de las dos piezas.
Wow! I wish to be able to do holds like that soon. Can you tell me what did you used as drill bits? Mine is not working at all. I tried it on pine and all I was doing is smoking and burning the wood. Really beautiful job man! Keep it up!
Thanks! :) I'm using a 20 mm forest drill bit, 20.5 mm 90° countersink drill bit and a normal 11 mm drill bit (for wood and metal). I'm drilling with a slow speed (should be around 500 rpm) in order not to deteriorate the sharpness of the drill bit and thus avoid burning the wood.
Thanks for sharing your techniques, super cool. Do you have any thoughts on dust collection? The angle grinder with a shaping disc makes an insane amount of dust.
Thanks! My workshop is located in my garage. At the end of the day, the clean up is 3 minutes with the broom. But indoor workshops are a little bit more tricky. I've seen that Arbortech sells an angle grinder with a dust collector. Maybe that's worth a look for you? It's also a variable speed angle grinder...
@@wurfttobias Sounds like your shop is well set up for this, but just to follow up I bought a "universal" dust shroud and made some minor modifications to my dewalt grinder. It's really awesome having all the dust get sucked straight into a shop vac, highly recommended
Thanks Marco. In this video, I used Matai (as far as I remember) but typically I use quite a variety of wood: Beech, Jarrah, Lime, Oak, Birch, Ash, Elm, Australian Blackwood, Walnut... Best works hardwood that's a little bit softer (easier to sand): e.g. lime, ash, elm, beech
Super helpful video! I'm curious what type of wood you make yours out of? I've been using soft wood so far and I haven't had any issues but I'm just curious if you know how they hold up down the line. Thanks!
Thanks! In this video I used Matai. Typically, I use hardwood (oak, beech, linden...). I've also used softwood. Had no issues with splinters but some of the holds cracked when I attached them to the wall. But pine plywood works perfectly!
Thanks for your feedback, it's really appreciated. In my first videos, I didn't lower the blade guide as much because of filming. I won't do that again! But one thing, that you can't really see in the footage: I never push towards the blade. Each hand/finger is pushing slightly away from blade. Furthermore, during the more delicate cuts, I press my hands on the table and push with a wrist rotation movement away from the blade in order to make sure that in case if the cut slips my arms won't move. These precautions have definitely helped me in the last twenty years. Any further ideas and practical improvements are appreciated!
Beautiful holds, very inspiring. Your banner shows a few holds with really distinct grain, are they plywood? Do you have any opinions or tips on using plywood (gluing, finishing, chipping, etc)
Thanks Jason!!! Yes, some of the holds are made out of plywood. The nice thing about plywood is that you can glue multiple sheets together very easily without requiring a planer. Also easy to work with and quite strong if you're using birch plywood. But even the good quality pine plywood works very well.
That's the one I'm using: www.carbatec.co.nz/product/22308-14in-b-saw-2-spd-200mm Have worked with bigger ones with 4 hp motors but this one is sufficient for me. The size of the table is pretty good
Thanks! Not sure exactly because it's a while ago but I guess about one-and-a-half hours, maybe slightly more. You can spend way less time if you're happy with a finish that's a little bit rougher.
Due to the smooth surface of wooden holds you rely less on friction and you train more contact strength. The second benefit of wooden holds is that they are more skin friendly so you can train more/harder. But wooden holds still have quite some friction, not like polished limestone. The wooden holds also don't deteriorate over time...
What are you using as firewood? I would recommend using hardwood. Ideally soft hardwood so the sanding isn't too time consuming. Typically, firewood hasn't dried for years so it will continue to dry and it's likely that cracks will form... But if you're for example burning dry olive tree timber (e.g. in spain) that should work out.
Do you know the shaft diameter of the veritas vise? I have a record Carver's vise, but the carving platforms diameter is much larger than I like. I wonder if they are interchangeable?
How long are the bolts you’re using? How do you decide how deep to drill the bigger hole for the bolt? I have some wood that is 1.5 inches thick, and the average bolts wouldn’t be able to go through all the way without cutting a hole, but I don’t know how deep to make it
I'm using 50 mm long bolts for crimps and 50 - 80 mm long bolts for pinches, slopers, pockets and jugs. I decide about the length just by roughly estimating the lever: the distance between bolt and the point where you pull on the hold shouldn't be too large. This is why I don't drill deeper with the big drill on thicker holds (e.g. jugs, slopers...) Also, you don't want to drill to deep and then split the hold when bolting it to the wall.
Hi Marco, I don't paint my holds. The benefit of wood is it's smooth surface (good for the skin). With paint, the surface becomes too smooth to actually climb on them. You would have to add sand to the paint. But painting is a good option for dual texture holds where some parts of the holds become almost impossible to use.
sorry, due to my poor English I can't understand how do you call the "arm" where you place the holds before angle grinding them, I would like to get one. how do you spell it?
Awesome content, most informative video on making wooden holds I've found so far. The holds look really professional as well.
Thanks a lot!
0:19 OH yeah, exactly what i was picturing in my head!! i just the other day used an angle grinder for the first time and *boy* does it make heavy duty sanding easy!!!
Dude... by far the best hold making video. Just made my own board currantly making holds for it now no where near this standard. Inspiring man!
Thanks Dude! Soon, I will upload a more detailed video on how to make a finger pocket...
That was so much fun to watch. JD and I started the DIY Climbing Holds group and are grateful for this post. Keep the videos coming. I would love to see a video on how you made that pocket hold. I’m a subscriber for life.
Thanks. There will be a pocket video!
You got some nice quality woodworking tools at your shop. Thanks for sharing your work!
You're welcome! :)
Those are some beautiful looking holds, thanks for sharing!
Thanks!!
Thanks again Brother. Have had my own wall for the past 20 years in 3 different houses...now is by far the smallest but I live 10 minutes from Smugglers Notch, VT...these are so aesthetic and just sweet. Way kinder to the skin when training a lot in doors. Stay healthy and keep climbing and posting!
Thanks Michael! I will upload the next video in a day or two... :)
I thought I recognized the thumbnail haha. Cool to watch how the holds are been made!
:) First batch of around 50 holds will be shipped next week!
Awesome work, and very nice proceeding. It make sense to use de band saw at first and then to sand with the flap disks. My daughter is going to enjoy at lot this holds, Thanks!!!
That's wonderful!
Great video! Hope to see some of those in action and would love to see your wall.
Thanks! Will make a video of my wall at some point! :)
beautiful holds!
Thanks!
Nice one mate. I'm inspired to give these a go. The kids will love it! Cheers for the vid
Thanks mate, I appreciate it!
wow! super cool job
Good job Dude! The holds look legit.
Very nice videos. Would you be able to do a small video of how you made the T-nut attachment that is sitting in the vice. Very ingenious idea!
Thanks Michael! It's basically two pieces of plywood. I drilled a bolt hole through both, hammered a T-nut in (the T-nut is in the middle), and glued both pieces of plywood together. Then I screwed the whole stack to the metal plate that came with the Carver's Vise. I can explain it in more detail in the next video! Cheers
Awesome! Thanks for sharing!!
would be great to see you climbing on the holds
Hi Markus, I added some footage of me climbing on the wooden holds to the more recent videos I uploaded. :)
That carvers vise looks pretty handy.
Yes, it's so useful! :)
if you haven't yet, you shd start a brand. your product is top quality the first time! imagine doing this repeatedly for a month. with a few more hands, youd be having a competitive biz. great work Sir!
Cheers man! I've been selling holds via my website www.wurft.com .
At the moment, everything is out of stock because we moved from New Zealand to Germany but in a couple of weeks I will list new holds!
Have a great week Sir!
Great video. Thank you.
Super helpful thanks Tobias
You're welcome! ☺
Awesome content! Very appreciative of sharing this! Just subscribed :)
Thanks!! :)
That was cool. Thanks!
Looks good!
nice work
nice
Danke Niko! :)
Hello excellent work! What's the name of the tool where you screw the pieces, to sand them?
That's the Veritas Carver's Vise with the 2" mounting plate.
@@wurfttobias tanks
Good video, thanks.
Just wondering what's the point in sanding them before carving them?
Thanks!
I'm using the belt sander to create the basic and smooth shape very quickly. Afterwards I only carve the edges, I don't change the "fingerprint" of the holds. For me, this approach is faster than carving first and using the belt sander afterwards.
@@wurfttobias thanks for the reply
You didn't mention what size holes to drill. I assume 7/16ths for the small hole, not sure about the other.
Small hole for the bolt is 11 mm. Small hole for the screws is 5 mm.
Those holds look really good!
I'm curious why you use the sanding pad on your drill, wouldn't it be enoigh to only use the small detail sanding machine?
And what grains are you using on both pads?
Thanks!!
I want to finish my holds with a smooth surface. The sanding pad (80 grit) removes material way faster than the detail sander (60 or 80 grit). In case you want to finish with a little bit of texture you can skip the sanding pad. But the chance of getting splinters is higher if you skip the pad.
If you want to have some texture I would rather use the pad to create texture.
@@wurfttobias Thx for the reply. I guess im gonna try some.things out with the different machines I have and different grids to see what works best for me
Very nice work. What are your thoughts on 1) type/kind of wood, 2) orientation of the grain relative to the expected direction of pull, and 3) Location of bolt and;/or screen holes relative to expected direction of pull on the hold. Thanks again.
Thanks Matt, I replied to your same questions in the comments section of my other video.
Cheers, Tobi
Thats awesome thanks!
Great video!! I'm in Auckland too and planing on making a home wall. Where do you get the off cuts from? do you go to a timber yard of just off trademe?
I bought some stuff on trademe but most of the wood is recycled timber that I bought at Musgroves in Christchurch.
I think you’re doing a great video and a real help for climbers in these times to make their own holds, which disc are you using in your grinder? I have seen some expensive ones for carving from arbor tech and similar, am sure they are really good but wonder if a more affordable disc works okay too
Thanks! :) I'm using the Holey Galahad flat medium disc from King Arthur's Tools. Also worked with the Arbortech Turbo Plane which is more aggressive and doesn't give you such a smooth finish. I have no experience with cheap discs but I don't expect them to be that much different. But they might not last as long. Keep it up!
Tobias W thanks for the reply, I’m going to have a try with a bandsaw and rasps/sander for now I think, the discs are £95 uk or about $200 nz dollars here and I’m not sure yet if I’d get wider use, look forward to more of your holds videos really useful. Jed
@@jedkai29 You could also consider starting with a japanese hand saw and a more aggressive disc for the angle grinder instead of buying a band saw. I think that's cheaper and it might be more efficient...
Tobias W thanks again, I managed to do a pinch this evening after work, just used a hand saw and rasps. It’s not as neat as yours but went ok. I just have a bench vice so screwed it into a longer piece to lift it.
@@jedkai29 Cool!! Sounds good. Not starting with fancy tools is a good way to find the right techniques and then you can start buying tools. That's how I did it.
Hi, Great job. What is the name of the tool you are talking about in 1:25 min of your video? Do you know any place where I can buy it?
Thanks!
That's the Veritas Carvers Vise with the 2" Mounting Plate.
One of the first links to a shop that show up on google:
www.leevalley.com/en-gb/shop/tools/workshop/workbenches/vises/31172-veritas-carvers-vise
Buenas , es una pasada y un gran trabajo. En el minuto 5:31 como se llama el acople ese para la sujeción de la presa en el gato . Un saludo y sigue inculcando sabiduría
Gracias! :) Eso es VERITAS CARVERS VICE: www.leevalley.com/en-gb/shop/tools/workshop/workbenches/vises/31172-veritas-carvers-vise?item=05G2001
Gracias! Me ha venido genial el enlace
Otra pregunta, qué tipo de maderas trabajas? Yo dispongo aquí de mucha encina, sería una madera tratable, o recomiendas otra?
Gracias de nuevo, un saludo
@@7bmaneras
El roble es bueno. Pero es una madera bastante dura, por lo que la madera más blanda es típicamente más fácil de trabajar. (Lo siento si mi español no tiene sentido, solo estoy usando el traductor de Google) :)
@@wurfttobias vale es bueno saberlo, como te dije aquí dispongo de mucha encina probaré a ver qué tal se trabaja, aún así buscaré diferentes maderas
El acople que usas en el VERITAS CARVERS para anclar las presas, es casero?
Tu Español es de 10 , como si fueras de aquí de toda la vida ;)
@@7bmaneras
Sí, el archivo adjunto es casero. Consiste en dos láminas de madera contrachapada atornilladas. Se perfora un agujero a través de ambas piezas de madera contrachapada y se coloca una tuerca en T en el centro de las dos piezas.
Wow! I wish to be able to do holds like that soon. Can you tell me what did you used as drill bits? Mine is not working at all. I tried it on pine and all I was doing is smoking and burning the wood.
Really beautiful job man!
Keep it up!
Thanks! :)
I'm using a 20 mm forest drill bit, 20.5 mm 90° countersink drill bit and a normal 11 mm drill bit (for wood and metal). I'm drilling with a slow speed (should be around 500 rpm) in order not to deteriorate the sharpness of the drill bit and thus avoid burning the wood.
@@wurfttobias thank you I will try that :)
It's working great much love!!!! Yay! My bench drill was set too fast and I was putting too much force on it!! Slowly is better hahahaha! Thx again!
Thanks for sharing your techniques, super cool. Do you have any thoughts on dust collection? The angle grinder with a shaping disc makes an insane amount of dust.
Thanks!
My workshop is located in my garage. At the end of the day, the clean up is 3 minutes with the broom. But indoor workshops are a little bit more tricky. I've seen that Arbortech sells an angle grinder with a dust collector. Maybe that's worth a look for you? It's also a variable speed angle grinder...
@@wurfttobias Sounds like your shop is well set up for this, but just to follow up I bought a "universal" dust shroud and made some minor modifications to my dewalt grinder. It's really awesome having all the dust get sucked straight into a shop vac, highly recommended
Awesome work!! What kind of wood Is that?
Thanks Marco.
In this video, I used Matai (as far as I remember) but typically I use quite a variety of wood: Beech, Jarrah, Lime, Oak, Birch, Ash, Elm, Australian Blackwood, Walnut... Best works hardwood that's a little bit softer (easier to sand): e.g. lime, ash, elm, beech
Super helpful video! I'm curious what type of wood you make yours out of? I've been using soft wood so far and I haven't had any issues but I'm just curious if you know how they hold up down the line. Thanks!
Thanks! In this video I used Matai. Typically, I use hardwood (oak, beech, linden...). I've also used softwood. Had no issues with splinters but some of the holds cracked when I attached them to the wall. But pine plywood works perfectly!
@@wurfttobias perfect thank you!
The way you use that band saw...
I was waiting for a finger to go.
I’d lose an arm. I’d have to use a handheld jigsaw on anchored wood blocks.
Thanks for your feedback, it's really appreciated. In my first videos, I didn't lower the blade guide as much because of filming. I won't do that again!
But one thing, that you can't really see in the footage: I never push towards the blade. Each hand/finger is pushing slightly away from blade. Furthermore, during the more delicate cuts, I press my hands on the table and push with a wrist rotation movement away from the blade in order to make sure that in case if the cut slips my arms won't move. These precautions have definitely helped me in the last twenty years.
Any further ideas and practical improvements are appreciated!
Hey awesome video!! What did you call that vice? I need that thing!
Thanks! That's the Veritas Carver's Vise with the 2" Mounting Plate (standard is 3-1/2"). It's also listed in the description of the video.
Beautiful holds, very inspiring.
Your banner shows a few holds with really distinct grain, are they plywood? Do you have any opinions or tips on using plywood (gluing, finishing, chipping, etc)
Thanks Jason!!! Yes, some of the holds are made out of plywood. The nice thing about plywood is that you can glue multiple sheets together very easily without requiring a planer. Also easy to work with and quite strong if you're using birch plywood. But even the good quality pine plywood works very well.
Why do you use the belt sane before grinding them?
Thanks for the vid
In which section? I use it in the beginning to achieve a flat bottom surface. Then it's safer to cut on the band saw and attach to the carver's vise.
@@wurfttobias Ahh that makes sense. Thanks again
What kind of band saw are you using? I'm trying to find one for various projects. Hold making included :)
That's the one I'm using:
www.carbatec.co.nz/product/22308-14in-b-saw-2-spd-200mm
Have worked with bigger ones with 4 hp motors but this one is sufficient for me. The size of the table is pretty good
how long did it take to make 3 holds? awsome content btw
Thanks! Not sure exactly because it's a while ago but I guess about one-and-a-half hours, maybe slightly more. You can spend way less time if you're happy with a finish that's a little bit rougher.
I just made a climbing wall myself and does it matter that theirs no grip on the wooden holds?
Due to the smooth surface of wooden holds you rely less on friction and you train more contact strength. The second benefit of wooden holds is that they are more skin friendly so you can train more/harder. But wooden holds still have quite some friction, not like polished limestone. The wooden holds also don't deteriorate over time...
Tobias Wurft thank you!! Makes total sense
What wood is good for the holds? Is firewood ok?
What are you using as firewood? I would recommend using hardwood. Ideally soft hardwood so the sanding isn't too time consuming. Typically, firewood hasn't dried for years so it will continue to dry and it's likely that cracks will form... But if you're for example burning dry olive tree timber (e.g. in spain) that should work out.
These are beautiful! Is it necessary to drill the second hole for the screw or is the bolt sturdy enough on its own? Thank you for the great vid :)
Thanks! :) The second hole for a small screw is only to avoid spinning of the hold.
What kind of blade are you using on the grinder?
King Arthur's Tools Holey Galahad medium flat disc
Do you know the shaft diameter of the veritas vise? I have a record Carver's vise, but the carving platforms diameter is much larger than I like. I wonder if they are interchangeable?
Hi Alfredo, I'll measure the shaft diameter the next time I'm in the workshop!
The shaft diameter is about/slightly less than 16mm!
How long are the bolts you’re using? How do you decide how deep to drill the bigger hole for the bolt?
I have some wood that is 1.5 inches thick, and the average bolts wouldn’t be able to go through all the way without cutting a hole, but I don’t know how deep to make it
I'm using 50 mm long bolts for crimps and 50 - 80 mm long bolts for pinches, slopers, pockets and jugs.
I decide about the length just by roughly estimating the lever: the distance between bolt and the point where you pull on the hold shouldn't be too large. This is why I don't drill deeper with the big drill on thicker holds (e.g. jugs, slopers...)
Also, you don't want to drill to deep and then split the hold when bolting it to the wall.
Tobias W awesome thanks! Do they have any trouble with spin?
You're welcome! Just as any other non-wood hold which is why I'm using a small screw to prevent spinning...
Hello do you paint your climbing holds?
Hi Marco, I don't paint my holds. The benefit of wood is it's smooth surface (good for the skin). With paint, the surface becomes too smooth to actually climb on them. You would have to add sand to the paint.
But painting is a good option for dual texture holds where some parts of the holds become almost impossible to use.
The beginning sounds like the start of a Prodigy song.
Haha :) Just had to check which "song" I was using...
sorry, due to my poor English I can't understand how do you call the "arm" where you place the holds before angle grinding them, I would like to get one. how do you spell it?
Hey, I think you're looking for the "Veritas Carver's Vise".
com certeza é bem barato fazer uma agarra assim... eu achando que seria dica pra climber quebrado de din coroi
How would I bolt these to my wall?
With countersunk bolts (I'm using M10) and T-nuts installed on the backside of your climbing wall
How long did it take you to make all three holds?
They look awesome!
Thanks!! Took me about an hour and 20 minutes (without additional filming stuff)
Do you sell holds?
Occasionally, I do sell some of them.
(I 'm New Zealand based...)
Anybody got experience trying to add grip and texture to wodden holds? Maybe epoxy and sand?
Wich type of wood?
All sorts of hardwood work. Softer hardwood is easier for carving and softwood is very useful to get started and practice shaping.