Man you are so calm working on a car. I lose my temper too easily when I'm doing stuff on any car. It's probably because I don't have power tools and or not always having the proper tools. I do love getting my hands dirty but I hate when I run into issues that delay my work like a 15 min job became a 2 hr job lol
True Martin, having the right tools helps a lot! Over time you learn to deal with the stress of tackling issues all day I think. Basically all day long everything is a problem, being a mechanic, so you row the best you can! :)
you don't need to necessarily remove the skid plate on the bottom to remove the rear mount. You can remove the nuts holding the mount in and remove it Tetris style from above well the airbox is out. Good video non the less
I changed the front engine mount and took me 35 minutes to changed. Toyota OEM mount. 2012 Corolla SE with 118k miles. The mount wasn't that bad. I will be changing the rest soon
Always A pleasure and I use an old key holder that you put on your belt put a magnet on that side and clip the other to the light to help with gravity checks Keep them coming
I usually use my mid torque Milwaukee impact to tighten them without torquing. But it’s likely 80 ft lbs. for 12mm bolt threads…usually bolt diameter determines the torque used. If they are 14mm thread 100 and so on. I don’t know the exact specs off hand.
We’re those OEM Toyota mounts? I replaced all mine with standard ones off rock auto and the car vibrates worse than before 😂. Heard only thhe expensive OEMs don’t have that issue
Quite likely based on age. The symptom would be vibration at idle, buzzy feeling. Also excess engine movement going into reverse and drive if they are bad.
I would avoid the really cheap mounts, I've had problems with them. Try to find mounts at Auto Zone or Napa that are brand name. OEM mounts would be best, but a little more expensive.
Can I ask anyone in this comments group a quick question??? I have a 2011 Corolla with 175,000 miles on it... I was driving the other day and the car began shaking and banging hard. The tranny was working smooth prior to this but the car was not really driveable. I then put the car in low gear and shifted to 2 and 3 to get the car back home so to me it doesnt seem like an issue with the tranny because again, when I was manually switching gears, the car was swapping gears smoothly but the shaking seemed to persist. I was thinking maybe the motor/tranny mounts are bad since they most def never been changed but I am afraid to buy/install the 4 motor mounts to find out its something else alot more expensive because I really dont want to spend too much money fixing something like the tranny when it already has almost 200K miles on it....Hopefully my quick write up will help to let you know if you think the issue could stem from old/worn out mounts. The video was very helpful, but there was no real talk about why they were replaced in the 1st place.. the car seems to idle normal without much shaking or anything but like i said driving was basically not possible till I was shifting myself and still wasnt a great ride at all. I only drove less than 1/4 mile back home when I started to have the issue. Thanks for your time and anything you can provide would be greatly appreciated.
This car had a rough feeling in the steering wheel. No banging or transmission shifter manipulation at all. It sounds as though you have a mechanic engine or transmission problem. I’d have it looked at asap!
Which brand you used, I used anchor and westar for my Toyota matrix 2007 for transmission mount but holes are not lineup, anyone know any solution Thanks
I use a step drill to enlarge the holes a bit to get the cheaper mounts to fit. Try and mount it solidly in a vice to make it safer to drill if possible.
I know it’s 10 months late reply, I have the same problem with the rear motor mount for my 2007 matrix that I bought from Part Source here in Canada where one of the bolts didn’t line up the the hole in the frame so I returned it. The rear mount from Toyota cost about $300 compared to the $60 from Part Source.
Thank you. I appreciate your reply. I have a 2013 Corolla with 119 k miles. According to the mechanic he said I need all 4. Toyota's made in the US are not what they used to be@@JimmyMakingitwork
@@pitbulllover6152 sorry to hear that man my 2009 Corolla which is the first year of this generation, yours is the last year. Mine is Japan built and I have 297,000 miles on it only have had to replace the radiator, an OP switch and all four ignition coil packs that is it other than normal maintenance. Mounts obviously still original and still runs smooth as silk.
@@pitbulllover6152 oh my!! Was that a joint venture plant in Mississippi maybe with Mazda or Subaru? Yeah Japan built is always the best sad to say but it’s the darn truth
Must be nice to work on vehicles that have zero rust with that mileage. I live in the rust belt, keep your tongue, mouth, and eyes shut and hope the rust ,or bolt breaks. We say, cant be stuck if your liquid
nice work...don't ever give in to the new school dweebs that insist on calling them "engine mounts"...they are, and will always be "motor mounts"...especially since Elon's getting his way 😎
Man you are so calm working on a car. I lose my temper too easily when I'm doing stuff on any car. It's probably because I don't have power tools and or not always having the proper tools. I do love getting my hands dirty but I hate when I run into issues that delay my work like a 15 min job became a 2 hr job lol
True Martin, having the right tools helps a lot! Over time you learn to deal with the stress of tackling issues all day I think. Basically all day long everything is a problem, being a mechanic, so you row the best you can! :)
Yep; exactly; and having a lift would make life a lot easier too !!
It’s just the nature of working on vehicles. Things always take longer than you’d expect. Definitely having the correct tools helps.
you don't need to necessarily remove the skid plate on the bottom to remove the rear mount. You can remove the nuts holding the mount in and remove it Tetris style from above well the airbox is out. Good video non the less
Thank you.
Have some beers while you are doing stuff
This guy looks and sounds like he could be a twin brother of Officer Greg from OG's Danger Show ... which is awesome.
lol, thanks for watching!
I changed the front engine mount and took me 35 minutes to changed. Toyota OEM mount. 2012 Corolla SE with 118k miles. The mount wasn't that bad. I will be changing the rest soon
Nice work, they’ll make a big difference!
Always A pleasure and I use an old key holder that you put on your belt put a magnet on that side and clip the other to the light to help with gravity checks
Keep them coming
Haha,, great idea Tim, thanks very much!
popping those out with the air hammer…. smart man!!!
;), Thanks Luke!
Helped me get on with my only car i was stuck with, thanks boo
Awesome, glad to help!
Hello again Jimmy
Thank you for another Great Video.
Thanks again George! Appreciate you leaving a comment!
That thing is rust free got dayum
Haha, pretty clean as far as rust around here.
Awesome Video
Thanks for the visit and the positive comment especially Luxury Channel!
That is a CLEAN undercarriage for 200k
Yes it is!
Another great one. Thank you
Glad you enjoyed it, Thanks very much James!
Great video, thank you.
Glad you liked it!
Hey thanks for this video. What’s the torque setting for the center crossmember for the front and back?
I usually use my mid torque Milwaukee impact to tighten them without torquing. But it’s likely 80 ft lbs. for 12mm bolt threads…usually bolt diameter determines the torque used. If they are 14mm thread 100 and so on.
I don’t know the exact specs off hand.
@@JimmyMakingitwork thank you good sir!
I'm getting mines install now. My car has 207k miles. I paid about 225$ for the labor.
That is a great deal! It takes a few hours.
Where did u buy the new mounts?
awesome, thank you!!!
You're welcome!
That bolt you pulled out at 1:38 completely sheared off on my 97 corolla, do you know what part number to order for that replacement?
Man I do not know a number for that. I usually find odd hardware at a good hardware store, or local salvage yards.
I replaced the front one without a jack. I'm going to need a jack for the others.
Yeah, have to unload them to get the studs to clear. :)
We’re those OEM Toyota mounts? I replaced all mine with standard ones off rock auto and the car vibrates worse than before 😂. Heard only thhe expensive OEMs don’t have that issue
Yeah, some aftermarket ones will work, but the really cheap ones are only good to replace broken ones if you don't mind some vibes.
Ez when you have a lift.
Very true. Doing it without a lift wasn’t so bad in my younger days though.
What's that socket extention called you have for removing the first mount?
I used a MAC transmission extension for some bolts. The rest were from GearWrench, or Williams.
I'm the original owner of a 98 Corolla 107,000. How likely would engine mounts be a problem on it.
Quite likely based on age. The symptom would be vibration at idle, buzzy feeling. Also excess engine movement going into reverse and drive if they are bad.
Jimmy, Can you please tell me what is a good place to buy these mounts? I would really appreciate it
We got ours from NAPA, but the best parts will be from the dealer, not cheap, but give the best feel as far as vibrations and feel.
Hope this helps.
@@JimmyMakingitwork Thank you so much.
Same car, same year, hope I don't need motor mounts, nothing implies that I do.
You would feel the motor move a lot when accelerating, or feel it vibrating thru the seat and wheel. If not you’re good to go!
Great tutorial but please post the year of the vehicle you're working on. Many channels don't do this. Just a thought. 👍
I usually mention it in the video. But I’ll make a note!
Hello, i have a 2000 corolla ce, but i don't know if get the mounts in ebay
I would avoid the really cheap mounts, I've had problems with them. Try to find mounts at Auto Zone or Napa that are brand name. OEM mounts would be best, but a little more expensive.
Can I ask anyone in this comments group a quick question??? I have a 2011 Corolla with 175,000 miles on it... I was driving the other day and the car began shaking and banging hard. The tranny was working smooth prior to this but the car was not really driveable. I then put the car in low gear and shifted to 2 and 3 to get the car back home so to me it doesnt seem like an issue with the tranny because again, when I was manually switching gears, the car was swapping gears smoothly but the shaking seemed to persist. I was thinking maybe the motor/tranny mounts are bad since they most def never been changed but I am afraid to buy/install the 4 motor mounts to find out its something else alot more expensive because I really dont want to spend too much money fixing something like the tranny when it already has almost 200K miles on it....Hopefully my quick write up will help to let you know if you think the issue could stem from old/worn out mounts. The video was very helpful, but there was no real talk about why they were replaced in the 1st place.. the car seems to idle normal without much shaking or anything but like i said driving was basically not possible till I was shifting myself and still wasnt a great ride at all. I only drove less than 1/4 mile back home when I started to have the issue. Thanks for your time and anything you can provide would be greatly appreciated.
This car had a rough feeling in the steering wheel. No banging or transmission shifter manipulation at all.
It sounds as though you have a mechanic engine or transmission problem. I’d have it looked at asap!
@@JimmyMakingitwork thanks for the reply!!
I have an 09 vibe with a 2.4l. Should the process basically be the same? Thanks.
Yes, I think they are basically a Toyota Matrix underneath?
What brand wrench are the extra long ones you use ?
Those are Mountain wrenches if you mean the flex heads, GearWrench brand for the solid ends with one box and one ratchet side.
@@JimmyMakingitwork Yes I thought they were Gearwrench, I’ve been eyeing that set for a while
What are the names of each mount? In Particular the second
I identify them as engine front, engine rear, engine side and trans mount.
Which brand you used,
I used anchor and westar for my Toyota matrix 2007 for transmission mount but holes are not lineup, anyone know any solution
Thanks
I use a step drill to enlarge the holes a bit to get the cheaper mounts to fit. Try and mount it solidly in a vice to make it safer to drill if possible.
I know it’s 10 months late reply, I have the same problem with the rear motor mount for my 2007 matrix that I bought from Part Source here in Canada where one of the bolts didn’t line up the the hole in the frame so I returned it. The rear mount from Toyota cost about $300 compared to the $60 from Part Source.
nice work. you sound like trump btw . makes watching the video a bit more fun i must say
Haha, these mounts are ugly, believe me, when I came into the room I said these mounts are ugly, everybody knows.
How much does all 4 cost with labour?
Can't say from memory, but I'd guess $700-1000. Prices can change pretty drastically based on location and current market though.
Thank you. I appreciate your reply. I have a 2013 Corolla with 119 k miles. According to the mechanic he said I need all 4. Toyota's made in the US are not what they used to be@@JimmyMakingitwork
@@pitbulllover6152 sorry to hear that man my 2009 Corolla which is the first year of this generation, yours is the last year. Mine is Japan built and I have 297,000 miles on it only have had to replace the radiator, an OP switch and all four ignition coil packs that is it other than normal maintenance. Mounts obviously still original and still runs smooth as silk.
@@jonathanratliff4780 Thx for the reply. Mine is made in Mississippi, so it's basically made in China. Lol
@@pitbulllover6152 oh my!! Was that a joint venture plant in Mississippi maybe with Mazda or Subaru? Yeah Japan built is always the best sad to say but it’s the darn truth
Guys telling me all four mounts plus work is about 700-800 about half each am I tripping ?
That isn’t too bad. Try to use OEM mounts if possible. They transmit less vibration that other brands might.
Why do these guys fail to mention the car year?
Not sure who the other guys are, but most Corollas are very very similar, this was a 2008, similar from 1998 to 2016. Only minor differences.
Must be nice to work on vehicles that have zero rust with that mileage. I live in the rust belt, keep your tongue, mouth, and eyes shut and hope the rust ,or bolt breaks. We say, cant be stuck if your liquid
Oh yeah, I get to work on rusty stuff every so often. But it sure helps to have torches and inductive heaters!
nice work...don't ever give in to the new school dweebs that insist on calling them "engine mounts"...they are, and will always be "motor mounts"...especially since Elon's getting his way 😎
Right on Joe, Motor Mounts it is you whipper snappers! Get off my lawn! lol
Was that OEM Parts? Or aftermarket?
Aftermarket, but I highly recommend OEM, although a bit more expensive, noticeable smoother vibes.