I recently left this job to a technician at one of the stores of a large national chain. He said he checked them and made sure all the screws were tight. Several days later, on a cross-country trip, I plugged in and could smell burning coming from the breaker panel. I disconnected the power right away and considered my options. After watching this, I knew the best thing to do would be to pull the breaker box cover off and check all the connections myself. I did, and found a completely burned wire that was held very loosely by its burned screw,. also, a whole bunch of other neutral screws were very loose. I tightened every screw but will need to find a new circuit board and an RV technician. Obviously, I could have lost my rig and died a horrible death because I trusted an RV tech to do this job. However, I caught it in time and didn't die thanks to your instructive video.
Thanks! You do a great job and provide a great service! Wish you were in my area (New Hampshire) as there are very very few reliable and trustworthy rv technicians. Thank you
Had this problem on the neutral bar last summer. The Air Conditioner connection was not tight causing increased resistance and burned wires. Breaker kept tripping. Had to replace the busbar and trim several white wires to remove singes. Glad for no fire!
I just found a "New" tool that I need to buy, Thanks for that, I always in the past just did a estimate of what I felt was tight enough when I was working in a panel.
@@joeandlorisadventures153 10-50 inch pounds is all I have ever needed in RV work. I have not found a 'T' handle even though I have tired. Here is a link to the one I use: Wiha 28506 Torque Screwdriver, 10-50 Inch Pound amzn.to/2k42K3u Wiha 28581 Bit Holder Adapter For 1/4-Inch Drive Bits amzn.to/2k6eJ0v
Very helpful video as all of them have been. Seems nearly impossible to find a "mere-mortal affordable T-handled variable adjustable torque wrench". I can see how the higher torque requirements can be difficult for older and/or weaker hands necessitating the different shaped handle. I'd think the wrench manufacturers would do themselves a favor by designing a convertible handle. Drill a hole and supply a slip thru bar temporarily turning the cylindrical handle into a T-handle for those applications where it would help. Until they do, I'll just use my inch-pound normal ratcheting handle by Park I have for my bicycle needs. Thanks for the insight on both: the repeated need for the torquing and the specialized tools to accomplish the effort.
Enjoyed the video, thanks for taking the time to make it. Just found your channel from "All Season Mobile RV Service", where he had asked for your advice.
I think rv’s are subject to wide temperature fluctuations throughout the year and these screws expand and contract and can work themselves loose in addition to heat from current. Need to check these once a year!
I too spent 40 some years as an industrial engineering / electrician / mechanic but started out in the Nuclear Instrumentation Piping field. I have worked for several OEMs building panels and wiring panels and none of them ever torqued their screws. Never had a problem, but it should have been done for liability's sake. Retired now. But I disagree with you on the 12Volt side. Crimp on connectors can be tightened, especially the slip on spade types. The screws on the ring connectors can be checked also. I have found many that have overheated or completely burned out, so a visual check would be good. What I hate about RVs is when the manufacturers connect 2 or more wires right in the middle of a harness run and use all the same color wire. I found 4 wires connected to 1 wire right near the firewall, all Purple wire. So which appliance was blowing the 25A fuse? After removing all the tape and plastic covering: 1 wire was controlling the coil of the Aux Contactor. 1 wire coming back to another fuse in the same panel. ??? 1 wire went to the heater Hi/Low switch in the dash. 1 wire ??? Never traced it. I separated the 4 wires and installed inline fuses on each. Never blew another fuse after that, but if it does, I will know what is doing it.
Is it possible that there could be an electrical backfeed issue if the torque value is not set properly? I am having this issue in my motorhome and make sure I shut my inverter off every night for safety sake right now.
Another get video. What is your experience, do the screws loosen over time or were they just poorly installed? I so often see new RV's with issues that obviously came from the factory. Poor quality control, poor training of employees, or employees who do dot care.
I would say overwhelmingly it's because of the changes in temperature extremes. Not only with the ambient temperature between summer and winter but also with a current passing through the wires. As that screw warms up it starts to fatigue a little bit and therefore you have loosening screws.
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I recently left this job to a technician at one of the stores of a large national chain. He said he checked them and made sure all the screws were tight. Several days later, on a cross-country trip, I plugged in and could smell burning coming from the breaker panel. I disconnected the power right away and considered my options. After watching this, I knew the best thing to do would be to pull the breaker box cover off and check all the connections myself. I did, and found a completely burned wire that was held very loosely by its burned screw,. also, a whole bunch of other neutral screws were very loose. I tightened every screw but will need to find a new circuit board and an RV technician. Obviously, I could have lost my rig and died a horrible death because I trusted an RV tech to do this job. However, I caught it in time and didn't die thanks to your instructive video.
Thanks! You do a great job and provide a great service! Wish you were in my area (New Hampshire) as there are very very few reliable and trustworthy rv technicians. Thank you
Had this problem on the neutral bar last summer. The Air Conditioner connection was not tight causing increased resistance and burned wires. Breaker kept tripping. Had to replace the busbar and trim several white wires to remove singes. Glad for no fire!
Wow! I never knew you needed to double-check this kind of stuff! Thanks so much for the info!
I just found a "New" tool that I need to buy, Thanks for that, I always in the past just did a estimate of what I felt was tight enough when I was working in a panel.
Always PM the electrical panels @work. I have never heard of a torque screwdriver. Makes perfect sense. Thanks for enlightening me.
If you get one get the 'T' handle. I can't justify buying another one but I do wish I had that style instead.
Is there anything else I need to know beside T handle before I buy one?
@@joeandlorisadventures153 10-50 inch pounds is all I have ever needed in RV work. I have not found a 'T' handle even though I have tired. Here is a link to the one I use:
Wiha 28506 Torque Screwdriver, 10-50 Inch Pound amzn.to/2k42K3u
Wiha 28581 Bit Holder Adapter For 1/4-Inch Drive Bits amzn.to/2k6eJ0v
Very helpful video as all of them have been.
Seems nearly impossible to find a "mere-mortal affordable T-handled variable adjustable torque wrench". I can see how the higher torque requirements can be difficult for older and/or weaker hands necessitating the different shaped handle. I'd think the wrench manufacturers would do themselves a favor by designing a convertible handle. Drill a hole and supply a slip thru bar temporarily turning the cylindrical handle into a T-handle for those applications where it would help. Until they do, I'll just use my inch-pound normal ratcheting handle by Park I have for my bicycle needs.
Thanks for the insight on both: the repeated need for the torquing and the specialized tools to accomplish the effort.
Enjoyed the video, thanks for taking the time to make it. Just found your channel from "All Season Mobile RV Service", where he had asked for your advice.
Great stuff. Just did mine today. Thanks.
I think rv’s are subject to wide temperature fluctuations throughout the year and these screws expand and contract and can work themselves loose in addition to heat from current. Need to check these once a year!
That was really interesting! I had never hear of a torque measuring screw driver. Think I’ll go on Amazon and pick one up.
I too spent 40 some years as an industrial engineering / electrician / mechanic but started out in the Nuclear Instrumentation Piping field.
I have worked for several OEMs building panels and wiring panels and none of them ever torqued their screws.
Never had a problem, but it should have been done for liability's sake. Retired now.
But I disagree with you on the 12Volt side.
Crimp on connectors can be tightened, especially the slip on spade types.
The screws on the ring connectors can be checked also.
I have found many that have overheated or completely burned out, so a visual check would be good.
What I hate about RVs is when the manufacturers connect 2 or more wires right in the middle of a harness run and use all the same color wire.
I found 4 wires connected to 1 wire right near the firewall, all Purple wire.
So which appliance was blowing the 25A fuse?
After removing all the tape and plastic covering:
1 wire was controlling the coil of the Aux Contactor.
1 wire coming back to another fuse in the same panel. ???
1 wire went to the heater Hi/Low switch in the dash.
1 wire ??? Never traced it.
I separated the 4 wires and installed inline fuses on each.
Never blew another fuse after that, but if it does, I will know what is doing it.
Took your advice and picked up a T-handle torque screwdriver. Definitely easier on the wrist.
Thanks for this!
Is it possible that there could be an electrical backfeed issue if the torque value is not set properly? I am having this issue in my motorhome and make sure I shut my inverter off every night for safety sake right now.
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My lights work, fridge 1/2 power, batteries discharging in hours(2 or 3).
Another get video. What is your experience, do the screws loosen over time or were they just poorly installed? I so often see new RV's with issues that obviously came from the factory. Poor quality control, poor training of employees, or employees who do dot care.
I would say overwhelmingly it's because of the changes in temperature extremes. Not only with the ambient temperature between summer and winter but also with a current passing through the wires. As that screw warms up it starts to fatigue a little bit and therefore you have loosening screws.
_"If you're not Happy, You're not Camping"_
I doubt that rv owners are going out and buy one of these.
I just did buy one. I want to do it right!