Diagnosing An RV Air Conditioner That Is Not Cooling
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- Опубликовано: 20 сен 2024
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Certified Mobile RV Technician, Darren Koepp, walks you through his diagnosis of this Dometic RV air conditioner that is not cooling. Learn how to check the various components of your RV AC and determine what is causing it to not keep you cool.
If you are in need of RV Repairs in the Olympic Peninsula area of Washington state, submit a service request on our website at myrvworks.com today!
I don’t think I’ve ever left a comment on RUclips. However I want to say thank you! We live in our RV full time in central FL. woke up this am to a unit blowing warm air. After a few calls the earliest date I got was July 7! I have one with asthma and another kid with a heart condition. So that was not going to cut it for this momma. I watched your video. Then watched it step by step pausing and working along. And replaced my capacitor by myself and we now have cold air again! So THANK YOU for making this thorough and easy to follow along. You may have literally helped keep my kids safe.
Thank you for your comment! It's why I do what I do!
6565
@@MyRVWorks hello I I hired some idiot to fix ac and he just made it blow hot air, he said he didn’t know how to put it back together now I’m looking for person to fix my ac that’s just blowing air and not cold air. Do you think it’s a capacitor or compressor
@@youtubedeletesmychannels2329yes
@@youtubedeletesmychannels2329yes
You saved me some $1800 today! My local RV dealer wanted me to just replace my 31 month old air conditioner because I quote "It's probably the compressor went bad". I tested the compressor as you said and it was perfect. It turned out to be a fried wire in the control box. I cleaned up the area and replaced the wire and connection. Total cost $0 and I have air again in Arizona in July. Thank you, Thank you, Thank you!
Rv Tech here, typically if I hear the compressor running and especially diagnosing for dometic or coleman ac warranty issues all I do is get a amp draw reading on the compressor wire and temperature split test and that usually that tells the tale, refrigerant leak. That's all the info the warranty people want to know as a rule. Of course if the unit is out of warranty then it's a replacement issue at the customer's expense. Five or six years ago, maybe longer, it was when dometic first introduced the brisk air II and moved the production to China I was doing warranty replacements, two or three a month, I work in central fla.. I asked a Dometic warranty tech why we were seeing , what I thought was a high failure rate and he said it was what dometic considered within their failure rate parameters. But I sure did a lot of them. But great videos from you though, I have watched several and their is no doubt that you know your stuff.
It seems evaporator coils from China are made from recycled copper thar has ferrous metal contamination, condensation caused the ferrous to rust there separating from the copper sausing leaks. Especially in midea dehumidifiers and ductless a/c units.
This is hands down one of the best explained videos cleanly I've ever watched on many topics of interest.
You have a gift of teaching! I can't remember the last time I watched a whole 20 min instructional video and enjoyed it so much that I didn't try to fast forward. Your thoroughness of teaching and entertaining method of instruction are second to none. Thanks for helping us learn how to help ourselves Brother.
Great video can’t wait fir the next one
@Ayden Gage This “person” and the one below who “answered,” Emiliano Alex, are both scammers, no doubt one and the same person. I’ve seen these exact replies on other videos.
Agreed. That was good stuff - very well done.
You are pretty good my friend. The gift of gab is strong in this one.
Man I really hope you have a kid or someone important to you to be passing your knowledge to. I have been a maintenance technician for 3 decades and there’s no way that I could explain everything in detail like you do. I love your videos. I learn something from everyone that I watch.
you probably dont give a damn but does someone know a method to log back into an Instagram account?
I somehow forgot my password. I love any tips you can offer me
@Jay Robert instablaster =)
@Hank Cooper I really appreciate your reply. I found the site through google and im trying it out atm.
Seems to take a while so I will reply here later with my results.
@Hank Cooper It worked and I actually got access to my account again. Im so happy!
Thanks so much, you saved my account!
@Jay Robert happy to help =)
Five year old video is the best I have seen. You are an excellent teacher, wish there were move videos like this.
The best how to video I have ever watched! You did an excellent job explaining components and what to look for and how to test.
This is the only DIY you tube video that I have ever watched start to finish. I have an associate's degree in HVAC and worked as a tech for a bit but have worked on power lines for the last decade so I'm a bit rusty. As a full-time RV-er we started having the inevitable AC issues while visiting Las Vegas during a mid summer hot streak. With an average of 110 to 115°f the past couple weeks let's just say my rooftop units had met their match. Upon first glance I too felt as though I had met my match. I watched a few pieces of videos made by hacks to with no more knowledge than I had and had been out of school for 14 years. They have no business instructing anyone on anything, let alone something that could potentially be fatal.
I then found this video which ultimately saved me hundreds in service calls and possibly thousands in new equipment. Thank you so much!
You rock! I pass up call after call in my area for rv a/c repairs. Ive not had a detailed explanation to go off of for reference. Thanks, now I can help out more RVers. Because of you I'm now doing more appliance repairs. I am 30 years in mobile heavy duty repairs and in last 5 years have added RV trailers to my business. Thank you for your valued information! TK Tech Mobile Truck Trailer and RV Repair Visalia, Ca
You have a talent in not only your job, but as explaining and teaching every step of the way! Thanks!
Hey Darren, I met you three years ago when we were living full time in Poulsbo and was asking about becoming an RV tech myself. I am an RVSA certified tech now in FL. Thank you for the good advice from one vet to another. Great video by the way.
Did you go to school for that?
Where you at in florida
It was the burned wire.. not getting a good contact. Hvac 26yrs...its always fun with a wasp nest.. rats and snakes. He is a great teacher. My instructor years ago would drift off to life lessons.
Wow awesome job explaining how to troubleshoot a Dometic RV AC. Seriously most videos don't explain in a systematic way but this was awesome.
Outstanding video Sir! I was an instructor in the Army and taught college level microbiology, so I know a good instructional video when I see it. I was a school trained Marine mechanic as well so you hit everything very well! Great refresher for me!
Thanks for this clear video Darren! We just bought a 2020 Jayco trailer in June of 2020. We have been running the a/c quite a bit but last weekend it just stopped getting cold. We tried to get in touch with an authorized service center that could repair it under Dometic's warranty within a week or so but no luck- and Dometic told me that since it was under a year old, the dealer had to handle it. We had a camping trip planned in 10 days so we were bummed. Upon further investigation, we found that the compressor wasn't running (distinctive sound). Since the unit is brand new we figured the motors and controls should be OK. My son and I have a 60-year-old family-owned electrical and solar contracting business so we suspected a burned or loose connection. I looked all over the internet and found your video on the exact model Dometic Brisk II a/c unit that we have on our Jayco! Long story short, there was a neutral wire off the top of the capacitor that had come loose - reconnected it and it fired right up! Thank you for saving our trip! Luke and Steve Harrison La Habra, California
having a similar issue -- I hope I'm as lucky to have a loose connection 🤞🤞🤞
I have a kinda similar problem. But mime starts working, gets cold and then after a few minutes it start to blow warmer. If I turn it off and back on same thing it's cold for a bit but then starts blowing warm. Any idea?
You made my day over here in the Netherlands ! Excellent how you explain which precautions we have to take and how we have the measure the capacitor and the compressor. I now have a good understandig how to measure the windings of a motor thanks to your thorough explanation !!! In the netherlands there is no repairshop for air conditioners, when it's broke they just put up a new one.
Thanks again, now my Dometic B1900 blizzard is working fine again.
All of your videos are the best I've ever watched! It's rare that an expert such as yourself is willing to share your vast knowledge. Your sequence in diagnosing components is amazing, and has helped me in so many ways. A friends A/C is doing just that, and was told he needs to replace it. I'm going to be his second opinion thanks to your video. I love how you get right to the point without the 10 minutes of BS, like all the rest of them.
I've passed your channel along to many members on my forum, and it has been of help to more people than you know. Please keep it up!
I fixed my domestic a/c by watching your video. I’m so grateful …….thank you
Thank You, Thank You, Thank You! I'm in the middle of Arizona, where repairmen dare not go, two Delta TX A/C units, neither working. 114* outside, 138* inside. In the morning, I'll put to use my new found and truly appreciated, knowledge to work. Truly, Thank You!
I hope they help. Thanks for watching. Try to stay cool and hydrated LOL
Good work. Been in HVAC for about 6 months now and you helped me get a run down on how to fix my own for my camper.
I am a certified HVAC technician. I want to say that you done a great job of explaining everything you showed on your video.
However, there are a few things that you need to consider about AC systems when it comes to tempature distribution through the system.
Let's say that on your current video here that the system has not lost its refrigerant.
Fist off the initial visual inspection needs to be in a maintenance mind set. AC units in my professional experience are the most neglected thing you own. The first thing that you should check for is dirty coils. In this video you showed the evaporator coil and it looked to be in really good shape. But you missed the condenser coil. If the condenser coil is dirty (the one that blows heat out on the roof) it will increase the internal pressure of the entire system which will make the whole system cool very inefficient. Always, always check that first if it's just not cooling good.
Also when you do your 20 minute test run you HAVE to make sure that all of the covers are in place. I the video you removed the cover to the indoor fan and evaporator coil and left it off. During your test the indoor/evaporator coil was not getting proper air flow across it. Although in a properly operating system that coil should have started to freeze up because of the improper air flow after 20 minutes it wasn't. That brings me back to a possible stopped up/dirty condenser coil.
The small hot spot on the temp overload safety switch tells me that your compressor has been running hot! Even though the safety switch tested OK, it's a sign of a compressor that was running hot. The customers complaint said that the unit would run but the compressor would not come on. You were correct to test that safety first for sure. But the compressor had probably cooled down to te point that the bimetal safety had already reset itself. If it hadn't it could have given you a false reading that the compressor or safety was bad. Once again consider a possible dirty condenser coil.
I know you said that the fan was running at full speed and it's a dual purpose/double shaft fan motor. So that should mean that the condenser side fan blades should be turning at the same rpm as the blower wheel. You have to install evaporator/blower cover so that the unit is getting the proper resistance in air flow (making the motor work in its normal condition) then visually check to make sure that the condenser side fan blades are not slipping on the shaft. (seen this several times) once that is checked its important to make sure that the blower motor is pulling the proper amp load per manufacturers name plate on the fan motor. If the amp load is to high then the fan is running at a lower rpm than what is required to cool the system properly. Which in turn causes the increase of internal pressure which cause an inefficiently cooling system.
If you have completed those steps and the system is still not cooling then I would suggest that the system has lost to much refrigerant to operate. I hope this helps in the future.
Be sure to properly maintain your heating and air conditioning equipment and it will last you a long time.
Happy Camping!
Good points. The actual problem revealed itself early in the video. As you said, the temp switch was discolored, indicating the compressor running hot. When he tested the compressor and the ohm reading was 3.6…bingo. Compressor was bad. A reading above 3 indicates compressor getting weak and it will draw more amps (run hotter and not work well at all). A reading closer to 4 ohms and it probably won’t even start. 3.6 ohms = compressor is toast.
@@SaltyVetAdventures if this is the case, can one just replace the compressor or will have to replace whole unit?
@@SaltyVetAdventures also, how do I test amp draw on the compressor and know if it's good or bad? Thanks.
@@miasantos3316 RV air conditioners are sealed united. They cannot be recharged with refrigerant and the compressors can’t be replaced.
@@miasantos3316 Multimeter with an amp clamp and test one of the power wires going to the compressor.
Thanks. I learned that government bureaucracy is the reason why a replacement RV AC is outrageously priced. Great video!
LoL I went to school for air conditioning and believe it or not if you were to release the refrigerant into the air it does miles of damage to the ozone layer and those fines he's talking about you can almost multiply them by 20 it's almost 200,000 if you get caught releasing refrigerant into the stratosphere atmosphere etc. It is best just to replace it if you don't have the licenses however if you don't care just go down to the hardware store and get you a tap that you screw in get two of them and get the correct refrigerant and insert it through one and vent through the other . You start to charge your system with the refrigerant sometimes you can use the car ones it just has to be the same number of refrigerant like 134a I think it is I think 134a replaced R12 . Once you have noticed that it will no longer take refrigerant connect a new bottle and start venting through one side as the other side is adding refrigerant this will remove all contaminants so you wouldn't have to pull a vacuum however you're doing miles and miles of damage to the ozone layer. If you could get your hands on some nitrogen then blow nitrogen through it instead of using refrigerant to flush it you won't have to pull a vacuum if you blow nitrogen through it then just recharge it using a simple can kit for cars you can usually get away with it another cheaper version is just going to Walmart I'm buying a regular window unit and mounting it on your old mounts it is very easy but will take all day maybe two three days if you don't know what you're doing or just not patient
It's a shame really, I'd argue all the emissions from producing the replacement AC, shipping it to where it needs to go, getting a tech out to install it and the resultant landfill waste is much more harmful, especially now that the ozone layer is re-healing
I feel like the AC manufacturers should be held to higher standards then. Everybody makes them as cheap as humanly possible, then they break, then leak the refrigerant.
Then people keep buying cans of AC Fix-a-Flat because it's an easy $2,000 repair bill anytime the AC gets serviced by a shop
Was I the only one that almost cheered when he said air conditioner for the second time? Congratulation sir and thank you for the knowledge
I really like your style! Your approach is so thorough and sounds kind; not cocky. In fact, you are so kind and thorough with your style that I'm elevating you to son worthy. Yes, on this RV Dometic Duo Therm I fix, I will have my 17 year old son watch this with me to go up and assist with the work you described; multi-meter and other tools in tow. I like that you don't hold back on technical terms like DeltaT. Mostly, since you are such a good teacher it will be good for my son to see how you operate.
note: i do not know weather or not you just over looked, fail to mention or just unaware of all the signs of a refrigerant leak. but as soon as i saw the condenser, i had a good idea that it had a leak due to the blue/ green coloring on the fins of the condenser. yes i understand that it can easily be mistaken/overlooked as corrosion due to copper having blue/green corrosion. other then that this is one of the best roof top a/c trouble shooting videos on youtube. keep up the great teaching!
A big thanks. Your video gave me confidence to diagnose my AC problem. The Compressor would click on , but not run. Used a multimeter to read capacitance and found the starting capacitor is bad. A visit to Amazon and $15 bucks later, I have a new capacitor on the way. I am beginning to feel that the only thing that consistently works on my RV is me.
I have the same unit. No residue found, compressor working, fan working, coils warm after 20 minutes. Yep loss of refrigerant. Seems to be a running issue with these from my research. I have had it for 2-3 years and it just stopped working. Of course on a 90 degree 88% humidity week. Very instructional "refrigerator" aka AC video. :) I am an Avionics tech so all the steps you explained I had done from my electronics knowledge. Very good layout for testing a system. Wish you the best in 2020.
possible to recharge?
I’ve said this before on some of his other videos, the man knows his electricity. I’d love to apprentice with him for electricity! Great video!!
Without the shroud the air is not condensing. Clean the coils, install the shroud.
A refrigerant leak is highly visible.
Great explanation of the components.
These A/C units are JUNK I have had two RVs either they work or they don't the first one worked on my 2003 for a few seasons and Quit needed a Recharge did that and it worked for one more season bought a 2017 Coachmen same thing I don't think anyone has this much trouble with their Home or Car A/C unit on a regular basis But this Video is one of the best on RUclips in many years for trouble shooting RV A/C units nothing missed Very Good
Thanks to your video I was able to diagnose my air conditioner problem. I had no cold air coming in. I was checking the compressor when I found a loose wire on the overload or thermal protection device located on top of the compressor. One of the wires broke free of the tab connecting it to the device. That part from Dometic is no longer made (ac is 9 years old). Dometic said I would need a new air conditioner. I couldn't see buying an ac when the $37 part just needed to be reattached. I was able to reconnect the wire and its now working fine. Thanks for the great videos!.
The unit in this video may have also simply had a failed thermal overload protector too. He only tested it when it was cold, however when a thermal overload switch goes bad it usually fails only as the unit reaches normal operating temperature (shutting down the compressor). This unit showed no sign of coolant leakage, so it may very well have simply been a failed thermal overload situation like yours.
@@reedreamer9518 The compressor is running and it’s not cooling. Pretty sure he would hear if the compressor was cycling like you suggested in another comment. The compressor wasn’t even kicking on before he unplugged the 110 connector. There’s nothing else it can be. The PTCR (the thermal switch) is a just normally closed switch that opens when the compressor gets too hot. Do you even know how a thermal switch works? It’s magnetism. Once it gets to a certain temperature the electrons form a strong enough field to either close or open two contacts. Those values don’t just change magically. The only way it could open prematurely is if the resistance was altered. The only way you can alter resistance in a thermal switch is to open or close it opposite of its unenergized state which is gonna give you continuity or lack there of where it shouldn’t be regardless of its temperature. It can’t be bad and show continuity when it’s cold. It only opens to break continuity when it’s hot. If it was bad it wouldn’t have continuity when it’s cold, which it had. Not to mention the burn spot on the contact cover kinda reinforces the notion that the compressor overheated due to….. lack of refrigerant. Also remember when he said to test the A/Cs efficiency it needs to run at least 20 minutes? Pretty sure he did that to. Like I said, you can even hear the compressor running it’s ass off and it’s not cooling. Compressor can’t run if the PTCR is bad. Even if what you said was true it only takes not even 5 minutes to determine if you got cold air coming out the discharge. If the PTCR will trip in 5 min on a good compressor than it would trip in the direct sunlight baking on a roof enclosed in plastic and metal. You have no idea what you’re talking about. You don’t know enough on this subject to criticize the man so smugly.
Wow- I just worked through fixin my Coleman Mach 15 and didn’t see this one first but you helped to validate my approach (as a novice DIYer) in which i too had fan but no compressor. I checked the compressor and found mine was good using the same method you described. But since mine has a soft start (micro air) I simply used the amp clamp to check for an inrush which there was none. I know the dangers of capicters and wasn’t sure how to properly check it but did know the purple wire (on my Coleman) was the inrush and check it with the amp clamp (same Fluke you use thanks to your tool bag video!) and no joy there. That led me to the Coleman’s control board and I then tested the 12v power at the terminals and discovered no 12v at the cioleman’s AC wire yet there was 12v at the fan terminal. That led me to check the 12v at the thermostat which I found 12v at both the corresponding fans (ie high and low) AND the same yellow wire which is the “AC” wire. That suggested an issue so I swapped the “low fan speed” wire at the top circuit board and at the thermostat and BINGO! Compressor kicked on!!! Thus, Bad “AC” wire somewhere in the line!!! Once again, if not for your prior videos on both tools and troubleshooting techniques, I’d have a new $1000 AC!!! Thank you!!!
THANKS!!! with your help i found the problem. The wire burned on your compressor was the same as mine, only mine burned off. Replaced it and now my dog and I are cool and comfortable. So grateful
Thanks a million!! Best video I've run across diagnosing an BV refrig - - I mean A/C unit!! Currently have Coleman Mach 15 not cooling today, but it was fine yesterday. Seems to me a refrigerant leak would show up as a slow fade in performance. Hoping I have a cap or relay failure that's easy to replace.
Great great video. Super thorough. Just bought a horse trailer with living quarter. You are now my goto guy. Thanks.
Awesome video my ac quit on me and was about to call it a day and start looking for new, checked the capacitors yada yada, checked the overload protector and the wire was burnt off, going to rewire and see if that fixed the compressor
Update it fixed my issue thanks alot man 👍👍 you went straight for the money 💰 blowing cold again 🥶❄️❄️
Hey Darren, this is Robert with S and kay mobile RV repair solutions in Ohio. I just wanted to say thank you so much for all your great videos and helps as a technician to have a refresher and you get in debt thank you.😎
Thank you. I have a friend RV'ing today and he noticed his AC unit was working yesterday but not as cool after running it for the day in Crater of the Moons ID. So could be the humidity was really low or etc etc etc. Now I can guide him through a check list. Thanks again, Southern WA.
Man you’ll be a great teacher. I work on residential/commercial
Darn good video...Get the Freon permit, it's not that hard...I'm certified Universal, semi retired, still running service, getting more into the RV stuff....Just like window AC's most units have no service ports, but one can be installed...I have serviced some, that had a low charge, and have since been running for years again...Some haves leaks right from the factory...Some start leaking from vibration...Same on Refrigerators...Might last years before needing it again, and on some type you can run a sealant additive...Takes caution, but can be done...I check for leaks, repair if possible, it's not always worth the bucks...You're a good Service/Repairman...An Honorable profession. and I'm glad I watched your video...thanks.
Since you did not visually see any Refrigerant residue / oil I suspect that the "REED" Valves have been warped inside the "compressor" therefore not pumping refrigerant. Good job of teaching the trade, I enjoy your videos and do learn a lot from them.
I live in south Texas where it’s hot and the humidity is very high. I recently bought a 32 ft 2023 golf stream Yellowstone motorhome and to me, It feels like the AC is not cool enough by the mid of the day when the Temp get to 100° to 103 degrees, thanks for the information. I will need to get it checked by the dealership. The motorhome still has warranties.
Thanks heaps, Australia here.
Dometic harrier playing up ,fault codes.
Working my way through ....great video.
You're welcome!
Wow thanks for so much great info! The good news is you helped me diagnose the problem… bad news is that my unit has the same problem! Running for 2 hours straight the coils are pretty cool to the touch but definitely not freezing cold! So find someone to recharge it (no luck on that one) or replace it🤦🏻♂️ Wish I’d found this out before leaving on vacation in mid August!
You Sir are awesome!! After a successful career in management of RV production lines, at 52, I decided to venture into service. My knowledge base is broad on building them, yet the tech side is different. My electrical experience has been very helpful because tracking is the key to finding faults in systems. You explaining in great detail the flow and tracking in appliances has been amazing. You've single handedly upped my game 100%!!! Thank you. I should probably give you half my salary..
My ac is not working and I’ve watched a bunch of videos and this is by far the most informative!
Wish this was on a Coleman Mach though,which is what I have!
Thx! Subscribed!
I have a video on a Coleman Mach coming out in a week or so. Stay tuned. The colemans are very easy to troubleshoot with your own 12 volt power supply to the control board in the top. You can feed your own 12 volts to those pins simulating what the thermostat is telling the air conditioner to do. Also, if you want to test your compressor, you can follow the black wire on your Romex and connect it to the purple wire on the black relay ( just don't get shocked). That will bypass your entire control board and test your compressor. Because the Coleman has more wires fed from the thermostat to the air conditioner there's more of a chance for those wires to fault. Typically the control Power is fed from the furnace to the thermostat and then the thermostat feeds the control board in the air conditioner. On my furnace playlist look for a video titled "Troubleshooting a Coleman Mach Intermittent Thermostat Issue" you might find some tips or tricks there.
Why don't you amp clamp the blue compressor wire and test for amp draw? Like it tells you in the dometic service manual. Low amps means loss of refrigerant. Anything less than 8 amps depending on ambient temp means low refrigerant. Otherwise great video! Very informative.
My guess is the idea was to show the audience how to test all the components.
Mine is about 11 amps and seems to be almost out of refrigerant if that is the problem. Was around 14 only a few months.
It got up to 109° yesterday down here SW New Mexico near Animas and my air conditioner has been acting up, Darn!
This video gave me the background to tackle diagnosing. Condenser and capacitor checked out. Have no idea where the controller is, it’s somewhere under foam that my units have not shown in your video. Down here wind blows and carries a lot of fine NM and AZ dust. Well those coils and fins had cobwebs and dust caked in there. There was a lot of buildup. That air coming out feels a might bit cooler. 👍
Unfortunately I see that cleaning it up it seems to be more efficient and cooler. But what brought my attention was that it’s noisier than the other same model AC on my trailer. The noisy one makes an additional mechanical noise only heard outside. When I was running it without the cover I didn’t notice it. It seems to be more pronounced after it’s ran a while. Maybe if I record the sound it may make sense to you.
Thank you a bunch whenever you go to an RV dealer they want to sell you a new air conditioner. Mine was the pre-sensor. I’ve ordered one hopefully that’s my problem. My rear radiator freezes like a block of ice and then blows water all over inside the camper. Again, thank you for your video immensely
This may be a three year old video, but it is exactly what I’m dealing with right now. Now I can trouble shoot my ac now. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn’t. So based on your EXCELLENT video, tomorrow when I follow your diagnostics I would bet it is a sticking relay. But without this video I wouldn’t have even known where to start. Thanks a million (or at least a couple of thousand)😃
Dude, you saved us with this vid. So simple. We have a working ac again! Thank you, thank you, thank you.
Outstanding job pointing out all the possibilities !
Darren thank you so much. I't the second time you saved me this week. First was water heater switch now my AC. Fan would run but compressor would not kick in. Using you methods I tested both capacitors and found a bad start capacitor. Local ACE happened to have the same one and $13 later and a little time AC/Heat pump is working great. Keep up the great videos.
Nice to see someone go all the way through the system most techs would just have replaced it and been done. So it’s nice to see a fellow tech show the proof in the pudding
We call them part changers
Thanks for the details about roof mounted fridge......I mean air conditioners😁
As others mention, this was an overall very helpful video. One of our 2006 Duo-Therm AC’s isn’t cooling, and I think it got compromised by a long power extension cord (12 gauge) voltage drop. Hopefully it’s just a start capacitor. But I’m assuming that your unit here had a newer “combo” capacitor, start and run together somehow, and I’ll be checking each of 2 capacitors the same way… 3 pins on top of each?
Also, when you opened the control board you briefly looked for relays you said could be bad. But when the compressor came on you ceased tracking down the mentioned relays. So if the compressor and fan hadn’t started, we don’t know how to test the relays or even what they look like.
He tested the wires to the relays. The blue wire there was for the relay he needed to check.
Thanks so much. My Advent AC is not working and can't get into repair for 2-4 months everyone is busy. I was able to troubleshoot and see what was not wrong. Still working on AC Great video only one around that I could find even close to what I needed. Well Done Sir
Best RV AC tutorial in the world! Thanks for doing that. Mine is cool but not cold and everything has good readings so I'm guessing its the freon levels. Thanks again!
Thanks or giving me what I think is likely the information to fix my RV airconditioner. When it first comes on the delta T is about 50 deg. Then an hour or so later the cool air stops. It sounds to me like the temperature sensor has come loose or has quit working or the little round thing on top of the compressor has has go bad. It should be an easy fix once I figure it out and find parts. Thanks and keep the good stuff coming.
I have to say the best educational video I've seen yet. I have the same model dometic A/C so it was really helpful and Convenient.
Great video quality. Fantastic job explaining everything in Great Detail! 5 out 5 and subscribed 💯
Wow, thanks!
Should have finished my 3rd year rv tech course about 6 years ago.. I love your videos and will keep learning from them on generators and ac units.. btw i say the wrong appliance for a few different pieces.. confusing my friends. You should be teaching somewhere.. you have a natural talent to learn from.. thanks from Vancouver B.C Canada 🇨🇦
Many thanks. Found a bad connection under the compressor cap on thermal/amperage sensor. All good now. Crimped a new female and 4 inch wire (heavy gauge) and blue but connector and back working good.! 🥶
Also you were looking for a place to set your meter,,, it has a clamp :)
I just started watching your videos, and they are awesome. I am new to RVing, and I want to know as much as I can about my RV so I can do it myself or know where to look and monitor an RV tech so I am not taken advantage of. Your videos really break down how to solve problems. Thank you so much.
I will be another one to say I love your videos!! We were up in your area not too long ago and loved it!! If I am up there again and need you I will definitely not hesitate to call you!!
Hey thank you so much for your video. Traveling nurse here and my ac went out during an assignment. Doing these checks tomorrow after I get off work. I feel like I can semi know what to look for after watching your video.
Another kick butt tutorial on ac diagnostic. Thank you 🙏🏻
I agree with all of the comments on the quality and information provided in this video. My question is in the area of your troubleshooting the control board. There is a fuse there and you did not mention checking it. Prior to any other control board malfunctioning of the relays, would not the fuse go out first? It would be so easy if this was the issue and it just needed to be replaced. I will look at the fuse and do the testing you recommeded for voltage on the two relays. Thank you so much from an inquisitive novice and dedicated DIY'r.
Thank you I now understand alot more. Will definitely help me in the future my Ac is working fine after I cleaned a little bit.
Thanks for your informative video. I fixed my marine AC from the information you provided. My compressor quit and I thought it was the capacitor. But I started with ohms test on top of the compressor like you did and when i took the electrical cover off, one of the wires had corroded and come off the terminal. Boing I was back in business. Thanks again.
Now I see what you were doing when you were on my roof and I was down below...very clear and easy to understand.
So when my fridge goes out you're saying to call the AC guy? LOL. Thanks for the video, I learned tons!
I have watched every rooftop a/c RUclips video . This ic not the only best one, but it was the best educational instructor. You talked clearly, an informative way for us that have normal mechanical ability’s and at a
Nice pace without a lot of unnecessary bullshit added. Great job, if I could give you 5 thumbs you would have them..
As far as recharging these units, I find the best way is to have the correct Freon, a Freon scale,, a vacuum pump and a long Sealing Schrader valve stem tool.
Once you have found the leak fix by Brazee or silver Soldier vacuum and hold -30 lb from those bolt on line taps ( I like putting one on high and low lines ) suck and hold on high line first then low line, keeping your vacuum on low line you then carefully put in proper amount of Freon as the unit specifications.. your challenge will be holding the scale steady on those fiberglass roofs. Do all filling with F.bottle upside down and add a 1 1:2 ounces for the hose.
Button it up, start it up. And if it doesn’t work then, THROW THE THING OFF THE ROOF and buy a FAN ! ! !
Wow! What a professional teacher, a person would be fortunate to be your appretince, thanks for sharing brother!!!
It is so odd that RV AC units are so difficult to get recharged.My home AC easily can be charged. I can do my car with a cheap kit from any parts store or Walmart.
It’s because the manufactures just want you to throw stuff away and not repair it !! It’s stupid , the throwaway society
Thanks for the time to make this video! Mine did the exact symptoms as this one. 👍
I have an abnormally large amount of dirt buildup on the evaporator coils. I have been meticulous about sealing the seams in the evaporator shroud with foil duct tape and cleaning the inside air filters every two weeks. It ocurred to me that the reduced air pressure under the evaporator shroud will draw outside air from under the AC's base plate through the condensate pan's drain holes where it will contact the evaporator coils.
Tomorrow when cleaning the evaporator coil I plan to add a piece of OPEN cell foam between the roof and the AC's base plate directly under the two drain holes. This should allow condensate to pass through to the roof yet prevent dirt from being sucked into the evaporator shroud.
Alternatively a Duck Bill check valve inserted between the drain pan and base plate would allow water to drain but block outside dirt from being sucked into the evaporator shroud but that would best be done by the AC's manufacturer.
Time will tell if this solves my problem!
Marc
Great video ty! Difference is .7 between the added numbers
2.5 start to crank
Run to start 1.5
Start to run 3.3
What variance is acceptable?
This is excellent! I just followed along with your video and fixed my air conditioner!! Relay was stuck. Thank you!!
What reading did you get on your relay? I got 61.4 volts when the compressor was not running and 57.0 volts when the compressor kicks in. I wonder what is an accurate reading if the relay is in bad shape. Did you replace your relay or the whole control box?
Great video like usual Unfortunately I came to the same conclusion on mine. Need a new roof unit. Im an independent RV dealer and I always end up watching your videos to figure out how to fix my RVs
Hi I have a dometic a/c I check out your video it was excellent to watch I was using the a/c one weekend and the next it wouldn't give off cold air I can hear compressor cut in but no cold air what could be the problem thanks
Thank you so much for taking the time to explain this in a way I understand. I now feel confident getting up on our roof and checking our unit that is blowing air, but not cold. If our ac unit needs replacing, what brand do you personally recommend? Preferably, the brand that is the longest lasting, most reliable. Thanks again.
Great example of proper troubleshooting!! The government bureaucracy information was infuriating!! Do you know what the customer did to remedy the a/c issue?
You may have made a very costly mistake for this customer - apparently not understanding the Thermal Overload Protector components (they are not TCR's or simple current sensitive breakers). By simply testing them cold, all you've proved is they make electrical connection when the unit is cold and not in use. However, these are temperature actuated switches that are designed to open when the compressor overheats, which is why they are located at the top of the compressor housing. But when one of these thermal switches goes bad, it will not show an open circuit when the unit is cold - instead it will open below its design temperature (during normal operating temperatures) only after the unit has operated and wormed up for 5, 10 or 20+ minutes.
Since there was no sine of coolant leakage, such as oil residue, and the compressor was heard working when the unit was switched on - it is possible the proper refrigerant charge may have still been in tact. Then, the compressor was shutting off as the unit warmed up when a faulty thermal overload switch opened up - shutting down the compressor.
Thermal overload switches are mechanical devices made of a bimetallic laminate and are known to fail by actuating at low temperatures. Only by testing voltage of the run coil after the unit has warmed up (and is blowing warm air, not cooling properly) can a failed thermal overload switch be detected. Otherwise, it's useful to carry and swap in a spare for diagnosis, just to be sure.
You should never replace the entire unit before confirming that the compressor is not shutting down due to an electrical fault like a bad thermal overload protector switch.
Thanks for the easy to understand info. After testing all components as you did I noticed that the Softstart unit had a red light on. Contacted Softstart and found out the softstart unit was bad and not allowing power to the compressor. Disconnected Softstart and the A/C works as it should. P.S. Softstart will ship me a new unit to replace the old one. Thanks again
Very detailed video! Thank you so much. I tried to turn my ac and it popped the breaker twice, the third time I heard a rattling sound and something burned, I could smell it. With this I can try and figure out what the problem is hopefully. Thank you!
That was amazingly thorough and extremely valuable. Thank you very much!
This is an absolutely awesome video! regardless of my problem, you explained almost everything needed well and in full detail. luckily with mine i know the compressor isnt running, so hopefully its something in the wiring that can be repaired rather than replacing the entire unit. thanks for posting this!
Dude you rock. Great explanations and totally usable. Cheers!
Sorry about that 64 years old and only have one hand but it's bur 4 year Colman mach 1500 and u are the best u explain everything to the Tee u .are my favorite get back from store I going to check relay because it's kinda melt a little on inside ac thank
Thanks for making these videos, it helps so much to understand how things work.
Looks like I'll be following this process tomorrow morning after cleaning coils and then discovering the compressor isn't turning on. Getting warm in Las Vegas. Thanks for a great video on troubleshooting my refrigerator...ahhh! Why do I keep calling it a refrigerator? 😊
Why didn't you clean the terminal on the compressor that showed overheating or dirt/rust buildup to improve conductivity?
Best tutorial I’ve ever come across, informative and entertaining, good job!
Thank-you for taking the time to make this, I learned alot and fixed mine from watching this video, hi from Yukon, but now drilling in nevada, really cool here now in my RV, thanks to you...
I will check that out hopefully it’s as simple as that. Just have to wait for the snow to clear on the top of the RV 😆 I’ll keep you posted and check out link
I have watched this video a few times because my AC unit just stopped on the first day of an outing when temps were in the mid 90's. Just a hum and then the house breaker trips. Dang! Plan is to replace the run capacitor for my Dometic Duo-therm and install a hard-start kit to see it that gets it running again. The unit has not be used very much at all since we purchased the trailer new in late 2018. Always something... :-)
Thanks for the great video. It helped me diagnose and fix my A/C for $20.
Another great video. I really like how you explain things. My Coleman Mach 15 kicks the 20 amp breaker after it runs for awhile. I checked at the breaker is starts a 11.8 amps and climbs to 20.2 amps and eventually trips the breaker. I got on the roof and opened it up and so far found the run capacitor is bubbling out on the side. The battery in my meter died so I was not able to test anything else at the time. I went ahead and ordered new capacitor since its leaking needs replaced. Watching this video you explained things that Im going to check the compressor and all the capacitors when I get back on the roof.
You’re a BEAST 💪🏻💪🏻!!! Thank you for all the great content you provide! I’ll admit I’m envious at all your knowledge and intelligence! Lol! Great helpful videos!!