I've just realised that my dad probably had a hand in building the engine you're working on. The Ford Essex V6 was built in the Ford motor works in Dagenham, Essex. My dad worked in the engine plant there from 1970 to 1989.
I hate him so much I mean that personally they didn't think at all building this engine it fkng SUCKS I hate this engine so much. Thing was weak and underpowered no support at all for the engine so you're stuck tryna figure out what's wrong with it if it doesn't start and your issue isn't online. This is the worst fkng engine ford had made in so long your dad and ford did a terrible job and I genuinely mean that from someone that was rebuilding one and it just randomly stopped with all new parts. Thing is SHT!
Here is called "mastic" but silicone it is. And the problem is, people do not know how to use it. I bought one for my car, the engine has a cap made of aluminium and the original gasket was a metal pice wich is one use only, once you tighten the bolts you squeeze the gasket and it should seal. But the idea is rubish to begin with, and the engine of my car was always full of oil and dirt. So i bought this gasket silicone made in germany. And one old mechanic teached me how to make seals. I followed his steps and the cap never let any oil out. Steps are simple, and if you do it right, you won't even need to clean it off and remake another one. First you clean the the edges after that i like to use a kitchen sponge or those for sanding curbed forms in auto painting, but before that i cover the engine inside and all the parts with coton cloth, the grit from the sponge can go in and is not good. Reason is, i want one side, the one from the engine to be perfectly clean beacuse i am going to paint it with my finger with silicone. Of course the other side from the cap gets same treatment except no silicone on that one, i rub a little bit of engine oil on edge of the cap so the silicone won't stick. I let the silicone on the engine to cure untill is not stiky to the touch, i put the cap and gently tighten the bolts, not all the way. just a little bit, i don't want to squeeze the silicone while is still soft, just slightly form an even layer, then you let it cure overnight. Next day i thighten the bolts all the way. Doing so, i have a perfect seal, even if the cap is deformed a bit, wich in my case isn't. If you put silicone and tighten the bolts all the way when is still not cured, you will be pressing the metal to metal till the silicone is completly out, and there is where is going to fail and leak oil. Silicone is great for gaskets, if used properly.
Exactly! If you read the instructions on how most sealants work, you’re supposed to apply it and put the part on without tightening, just getting a little to ooze out, wait an hour and then torque to spec. Also, many suggest waiting 24 hours after that for the sealant to fully cure before exposing it to any oils. Works every time.
I have to applaud you for your remarkable ability to say correctly "PCV" almost every time. Me, every single dang time, I say "PVC". I guess I did more plumbing than emissions work early on. Drives me nuts but I can't help it. It is now deeply burned into my aging brain and is hopeless. So, I'm impressed, congrats! :)
Yet another great video a clear logical progression, but what really impresses me is your command of English especially technical English, having lived in Netherlands for several years my technical Dutch was never that good, keep up the good work ...sorry hobbies.
Its just crazy how someone thought it a good idea to use silicone like that. Good thing you got it off pretty easy. Hope none is in the engine. Thise new covers look really good, such an improvement 👍
Good to see you got the silicon residue out, that stuff is death to an engine when it gets in the oilways, I find a high pressure air blast over the top of the tapped holes sucks out the final bits if detritus in the bottom of the hole, stay safe ! Chris B.
nice work again. Always be careful with a pcv hose, I once blew almost al of the oil through the sump seal of the engine because the hose was not stiff enough and stick together from the heat
Prior experience I've had is that the flat covers don't actually work that well with flat rubber gaskets as they don't locate like the originals did (the covers don't have the provision for the locating tabs either) & are prone to shuffling out of position. I've had some success gluing the gaskets to the covers. Ironically the cork deforns more readily & locates better in this case. The oem style rubber gaskets are shaped to receive the covers & hence are held captive. The rubber sump gaskets used on the later Ford engines actually have locating lugs either side of each fixing which also serve to set the maximum compression of the gasket.
Nice vid as always Steve! I was looking at Mk1 Ford Capris with this engine for a long time, it would be nice to have one of those one day... Anyway these videos will be huge help for anyone with an Essex V6! I'm also happy you've mentioned Old Rusty in the beginning, really looking forward to the next steps :) Lastly, as always I'm fascinated by the time and effort you put in your projects and videos!
I worked at Ford Windsor Ontario Canada in Essex county. At this Ford plant we built what we called the Essex V6 engine. I didn't know Ford had 2 different v6 Essex engines. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Essex_V6_engine_(Canadian). 90 degree 3.8 and 4.2 Liter.
@@D3Sshooter we cast 4.0 German blocks in Windsor at our iron Foundry. They shipped rough blocks to be machined and built in Germany, then shipped to USA and installed in vehicles.
Thank you for showing how easy it is to remove the spray paint on the high parts of the valve covers. I have a 1989 Corolla of which the plastic hubcaps have to be painted. The problem is that the "Toyota" name is sunken in. I thought of spray painting the whole cap silver and then write in the letters with a felt tipped pen. Have you perhaps got a better suggestion? Baie dankie!
Thanks for the comments, Here is what you can do: paint the sunken area ( airpaint). When dry put a bit of oil on the sunken letters and fill with silicone the letters.. let it dry. Now paint the rest and overspray the silicone. ( will not stick anyhow). One one dry pul out the silicone in the sunk letters . I sat silicon but its actual an acrylic seal...
Is the Cork gasket thinner than your Rubber gasket? Maybe they supply the shorter ones so they fit the thin gasket and know longer ones will be needed if a Rubber is Put On !!
Where were you sir. 30 years ago.
Very informative videos . Man you are the best of best.👍👍👍
Thanks for the comments, 30 years ago hmmmm lets see...I was an ATM design engineer.
I've just realised that my dad probably had a hand in building the engine you're working on. The Ford Essex V6 was built in the Ford motor works in Dagenham, Essex. My dad worked in the engine plant there from 1970 to 1989.
Wow, isn't that something... TXS for letting us know
I hate him so much I mean that personally they didn't think at all building this engine it fkng SUCKS I hate this engine so much. Thing was weak and underpowered no support at all for the engine so you're stuck tryna figure out what's wrong with it if it doesn't start and your issue isn't online. This is the worst fkng engine ford had made in so long your dad and ford did a terrible job and I genuinely mean that from someone that was rebuilding one and it just randomly stopped with all new parts. Thing is SHT!
Not tryna be bogus but they could've done been better with minimal effort everything about the engine is sht including where the bolts and parts are.
Here is called "mastic" but silicone it is. And the problem is, people do not know how to use it. I bought one for my car, the engine has a cap made of aluminium and the original gasket was a metal pice wich is one use only, once you tighten the bolts you squeeze the gasket and it should seal. But the idea is rubish to begin with, and the engine of my car was always full of oil and dirt. So i bought this gasket silicone made in germany. And one old mechanic teached me how to make seals. I followed his steps and the cap never let any oil out.
Steps are simple, and if you do it right, you won't even need to clean it off and remake another one.
First you clean the the edges after that i like to use a kitchen sponge or those for sanding curbed forms in auto painting, but before that i cover the engine inside and all the parts with coton cloth, the grit from the sponge can go in and is not good. Reason is, i want one side, the one from the engine to be perfectly clean beacuse i am going to paint it with my finger with silicone. Of course the other side from the cap gets same treatment except no silicone on that one, i rub a little bit of engine oil on edge of the cap so the silicone won't stick.
I let the silicone on the engine to cure untill is not stiky to the touch, i put the cap and gently tighten the bolts, not all the way. just a little bit, i don't want to squeeze the silicone while is still soft, just slightly form an even layer, then you let it cure overnight. Next day i thighten the bolts all the way. Doing so, i have a perfect seal, even if the cap is deformed a bit, wich in my case isn't.
If you put silicone and tighten the bolts all the way when is still not cured, you will be pressing the metal to metal till the silicone is completly out, and there is where is going to fail and leak oil. Silicone is great for gaskets, if used properly.
Exactly! If you read the instructions on how most sealants work, you’re supposed to apply it and put the part on without tightening, just getting a little to ooze out, wait an hour and then torque to spec. Also, many suggest waiting 24 hours after that for the sealant to fully cure before exposing it to any oils. Works every time.
Thanks for the comments, that will work indeed. and as you state people use silicone the wrong way ( or at least in most cases)
Indeed, sadly most don't apply those basic rules
Great video. These are the engines that scimitar get's have.
Yes they do
I have to applaud you for your remarkable ability to say correctly "PCV" almost every time. Me, every single dang time, I say "PVC". I guess I did more plumbing than emissions work early on. Drives me nuts but I can't help it. It is now deeply burned into my aging brain and is hopeless. So, I'm impressed, congrats! :)
hahaha, believe me I had to pay attention to it as well... as I would do the same otherwise...
Am delighted to see this recently bought a Ford truck with a v6 Essex engine..need all the info I can get to maintain and keep it in the best shape
I wrote an assignment on the Essex V6 from these videos for collage thanks for the information haha
That's awesome! Maybe pass it along... would love to see that
I do not turn a wrench nearly as much as I did as a young man. Nice approach to how you are doing this job. Jim in Chile
Thanks for the comments Jim
Yet another great video a clear logical progression, but what really impresses me is your command of English especially technical English, having lived in Netherlands for several years my technical Dutch was never that good, keep up the good work ...sorry hobbies.
Awesome! Thank you!
Your camerawork is truly outstanding. Great video as always
Thank you so much 😀
Its just crazy how someone thought it a good idea to use silicone like that.
Good thing you got it off pretty easy. Hope none is in the engine.
Thise new covers look really good, such an improvement 👍
Thanks for the comments, I hope so to
Good to see you got the silicon residue out, that stuff is death to an engine when it gets in the oilways, I find a high pressure air blast over the top of the tapped holes sucks out the final bits if detritus in the bottom of the hole, stay safe ! Chris B.
Thanks for the comments Chris
De blauwe cilinderkopdeksels zijn prachtig !
das wel een goede koop geweeest
Love the channel keep up the awesome work
Thanks for the comments
nice work again. Always be careful with a pcv hose, I once blew almost al of the oil through the sump seal of the engine because the hose was not stiff enough and stick together from the heat
Great point! Thanks for the comments
Prior experience I've had is that the flat covers don't actually work that well with flat rubber gaskets as they don't locate like the originals did (the covers don't have the provision for the locating tabs either) & are prone to shuffling out of position. I've had some success gluing the gaskets to the covers. Ironically the cork deforns more readily & locates better in this case. The oem style rubber gaskets are shaped to receive the covers & hence are held captive. The rubber sump gaskets used on the later Ford engines actually have locating lugs either side of each fixing which also serve to set the maximum compression of the gasket.
Thanks for the comments, that might indeed be a drawback... so glueing is an option.. Unless there was a seal with an upstanding ridge...
Nice vid as always Steve! I was looking at Mk1 Ford Capris with this engine for a long time, it would be nice to have one of those one day... Anyway these videos will be huge help for anyone with an Essex V6! I'm also happy you've mentioned Old Rusty in the beginning, really looking forward to the next steps :) Lastly, as always I'm fascinated by the time and effort you put in your projects and videos!
Thanks for the comments, I try to make it as good as possible.
Wow that engine is looking good!
Thanks for the comments, its coming along slowly
Great video; very nice project!
Thank you very much!
Great news n information, enjoyable video. Thanks Steve 👍 💯
Glad you enjoyed it
Well explained as always!
Glad you think so!
Nice video love your tvr
Thanks!
I worked at Ford Windsor Ontario Canada in Essex county. At this Ford plant we built what we called the Essex V6 engine. I didn't know Ford had 2 different v6 Essex engines. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Essex_V6_engine_(Canadian). 90 degree 3.8 and 4.2 Liter.
Thanks for the comments, yes it did and there is also the German version...
@@D3Sshooter we cast 4.0 German blocks in Windsor at our iron Foundry. They shipped rough blocks to be machined and built in Germany, then shipped to USA and installed in vehicles.
Thank you for showing how easy it is to remove the spray paint on the high parts of the valve covers. I have a 1989 Corolla of which the plastic hubcaps have to be painted. The problem is that the "Toyota" name is sunken in. I thought of spray painting the whole cap silver and then write in the letters with a felt tipped pen. Have you perhaps got a better suggestion? Baie dankie!
Thanks for the comments, Here is what you can do: paint the sunken area ( airpaint). When dry put a bit of oil on the sunken letters and fill with silicone the letters.. let it dry. Now paint the rest and overspray the silicone. ( will not stick anyhow). One one dry pul out the silicone in the sunk letters . I sat silicon but its actual an acrylic seal...
@@D3Sshooter Thank you very much! This sounds much easier than what I wanted to do.
Is the Cork gasket thinner than your Rubber gasket? Maybe they supply the shorter ones so they fit the thin gasket and know longer ones will be needed if a Rubber is Put On !!
rubber is about the same
👍👍👍
Steve can you turn the W plate around so you don't need to make up a hose.
Yes I can , but that pre-formed hose will not fit then
There are 90° pcv valves available if that will make the job easier 👍
Thanks for the comments, that might be an idea thanks
Can you do a video on cleaning fuel injectors? Thanks!
Great suggestion! yep , I wil do so as soon as I have that job to do...
@@D3Sshooter great love your videos. Very well shot!
where do you buy your 38 carb degas jets and other parts, care to share a link. please :)
www.carburateurwinkel.nl
"Breakclean" with a Belgian accent is "Brakleen" :-)
Thoughts on the V4 version of this motor?
Not great
I would actually like to see what is happening with your Elise .
Thanks for the comments, coming soon
.