I have his 5x7 4 sheet reel. Good stuff. Loading in the dark bag goes a whole lot easier if you put a box in there with you and sit the box on it's side with the opening facing you, essentially turns the dark bag into a light tent. It keeps the bag off the back of your hands and gives you room to work. I used that method for a few years until I got my dedicated, folding Fuji dark tent.
Gregg Obst Thanks for the input! I’ve had a changing tent for quite a few years but tend to use a changing bag in the videos so viewers see a more stripped down, almost mobile set up. Not that the tent isn’t mobile, but I have a changing bag with me usually as a focusing cloth as well as allowing me to process instax on site that was shot with either of my 4x5’s
This has, in my experience, always been heavily influenced by these two factors… Age / type of film, and how it was hung to dry. For myself, I’ve not once had a curly negative from this reel… but I always shoot fresh film and maintain a consistent drying method.
This is great, I'm going to have to get one of these! I've been using the "taco" method so far, which is certainly not ideal. Thanks for sharing! I can't wait to see Adam Goldberg's interview. I've been following his work for a while now, and really love his experimental style.
shannon palmer Definitely suggest this reel to anyone who shoots 4x5. These reels are part of why I shoot so much 4x5 at this point. Flawless results every time and so easy to load. Makes processing 4x5 possible in 30 minutes which is perfect for me. Just practice loading for a day or two and you’ll have it down. That’s the only complaint I’ve really heard is from people who jumped in and didn’t even practice before processing. All film reels are frustrating at first until you have a little practice
@@DavesFilmLab I have been using a Stearman Press tank which requires a minimum of 450ml to process up to 4 sheets of 4x5. I am generally happy with the results but sometimes the two film holders leave a small notch in the emulsion at the bottom of the sheets. Are you using a Patterson 3 reel tank which holds up to 1000ml? Does the B's six sheet insert take up such volume that only 500ml is required to fill the tank? I understand the B's insert is 3D printed rather than injection mold manufactured; do the 3D plastics work well with photo chemicals over time? Can you insert a hose and get as good a rinse after fixing like you would with reels in the tank? Have you tried stand development with this set up and if so, how were the results? How many sheets have you developed with the B's and have you found any unusual quirks as a result? Thank you for your time producing analog content and keeping film alive!
Kyle Hartnett It requires about 850ml unless you’re using rotary. But it’s worth it to me for the quality images. Never use stand development, and I’ve processed at least 500 sheets through this reel. DM me on Instagram (@cinedar) if you have any questions and want a faster reply
They really don’t, trust me when I say I’ve done extensive testing. This is very similar to the development you can expect from a jobo expert drum which has been a staple of large format development for years. It also doesn’t have holes on the side. The MK2 version of this reel is the best thing on the market for b/w, color neg, and color slide
Michael Tullo prewash still removes the layer just fine, never had any issues in that regard, likely due to the fact that the sheet isn’t entirely pressed against the sides
Joel Sittler easier to load, smoother negatives, no possibility of a sheet becoming loose and sticking to the others, and it can do anywhere from one to six sheets where as mod54 gets weird results if you don’t load 6 sheets at a time
I just purchased one of B's 4x5 reels. Just curious if you've standardized on an agitation method/developer combination for Ilford films? Many thanks and keep up the good work!
Wayne Snider i typically will do 3 inversions every 30 seconds if the development time is below 6 minutes.... if it’s over 6 minutes, I’ll do 4 inversions every minute. Hope this helps :)
@@DavesFilmLab thanks for the reply. I'm new so I've never prewashed film simply because it wasn't recommended by the manufacturer. Have you ever tried it without a prewash?
@@smitty112877 Most manufacturers actually DO recommend a prewash. This ensures that the developer solution will evenly begin development of the film. No, In high school we were instructed to always prewash and so I’ve always done it. It’s especially crucial for c41 & E6 to ensure that the film & tank are already up to processing temperature.
@@DavesFilmLab right on, thanks for the info. I mostly shoot B&W and Ilford recommended against "pre-rinse". Evidently it's different for color/other manufacturers. I'll keep that in mind I appreciate it!
Can't tell for sure due to video angles, but does the back side of the film get sufficient chemicals since it looks like it's flat against the wall. thanks.
HD Imaging there is adequate flow yes, but the important side is the emulsion side where things are happening. So yes, there is flow, but the emulsion side gets more
Alex Makuch This is entirely based on the tank you have and whether you’re doing rotary or not. In a 3 reel tank, using rotary, I use 500ml.... if using hand inversions, I do 1000ml
Very interesting. I've just ordered my B's reel. Which lens did you use for the last two pictures (b&w) with the swirley bokeh? Probably wide open aperture? Ektar aero?
Jakob Olszewski 7” Kodak aero Ektar f2.5 shot wide open. Be sure to prewash really well with the b’s reel. Use heavy inversions during prewash and duration time of 2-3 minutes
1911geek Not any more than I’ve noticed from any other developing reel. Scratches happen occasionally to negatives but I’ve never had any caused my a reel
No they don’t. In my findings, curling has more to do with how they’re dried than anything else. Once I found a good drying method, I’ve not had a curled negative in years
@@DavesFilmLab thank you Dave. I couldn't find anything on their website about chemical requirements. I have a Patterson 3 reel for 120 film processing so this is very economical. Thanks for the video and info.
Charlie Brown Indeed! In the Paterson 3 reel tank I can do 4 rolls of 120, 6 sheets of 4x5, or 3 rolls of 35mm. Doesn’t get much better than that ;). The guy who makes these reels suggests following manufactures guidelines for chemical usage but I’ve found that 800ml works. For the rest of stuff I do in 120 & 35mm, I only use 500ml since I do rotary processing
@@DavesFilmLab Hi there, have you ever had any shadow marks in the centre of the film from where the centre hook holds the film in place, from using the 20th century 4x5 reel?
@@viktororlov2542 B’s by a long shot. Less damaged negatives and no flow marks around the negative clip on the 20th. B’s is much closer to a jobo expert drum
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I have his 5x7 4 sheet reel. Good stuff. Loading in the dark bag goes a whole lot easier if you put a box in there with you and sit the box on it's side with the opening facing you, essentially turns the dark bag into a light tent. It keeps the bag off the back of your hands and gives you room to work. I used that method for a few years until I got my dedicated, folding Fuji dark tent.
Gregg Obst Thanks for the input! I’ve had a changing tent for quite a few years but tend to use a changing bag in the videos so viewers see a more stripped down, almost mobile set up. Not that the tent isn’t mobile, but I have a changing bag with me usually as a focusing cloth as well as allowing me to process instax on site that was shot with either of my 4x5’s
Thank you, loading 4x5 film is a struggle at times. I’ll order this today!
Great video. Thanks. I’ll try the b’s method.
Simply Beautiful - Beauty in Simplicity.
Do you find that your negatives don’t lay flat after being processed in this thing? That would be my main worry vs a rectangular tank
This has, in my experience, always been heavily influenced by these two factors… Age / type of film, and how it was hung to dry. For myself, I’ve not once had a curly negative from this reel… but I always shoot fresh film and maintain a consistent drying method.
This is great, I'm going to have to get one of these! I've been using the "taco" method so far, which is certainly not ideal. Thanks for sharing! I can't wait to see Adam Goldberg's interview. I've been following his work for a while now, and really love his experimental style.
shannon palmer Definitely suggest this reel to anyone who shoots 4x5. These reels are part of why I shoot so much 4x5 at this point. Flawless results every time and so easy to load. Makes processing 4x5 possible in 30 minutes which is perfect for me. Just practice loading for a day or two and you’ll have it down. That’s the only complaint I’ve really heard is from people who jumped in and didn’t even practice before processing. All film reels are frustrating at first until you have a little practice
@@DavesFilmLab I have been using a Stearman Press tank which requires a minimum of 450ml to process up to 4 sheets of 4x5. I am generally happy with the results but sometimes the two film holders leave a small notch in the emulsion at the bottom of the sheets.
Are you using a Patterson 3 reel tank which holds up to 1000ml?
Does the B's six sheet insert take up such volume that only 500ml is required to fill the tank?
I understand the B's insert is 3D printed rather than injection mold manufactured; do the 3D plastics work well with photo chemicals over time?
Can you insert a hose and get as good a rinse after fixing like you would with reels in the tank?
Have you tried stand development with this set up and if so, how were the results?
How many sheets have you developed with the B's and have you found any unusual quirks as a result?
Thank you for your time producing analog content and keeping film alive!
Kyle Hartnett It requires about 850ml unless you’re using rotary. But it’s worth it to me for the quality images. Never use stand development, and I’ve processed at least 500 sheets through this reel. DM me on Instagram (@cinedar) if you have any questions and want a faster reply
That looks nice. Thanks for sharing!
the walls of the reel need holes in them for better fluid agitation.
They really don’t, trust me when I say I’ve done extensive testing. This is very similar to the development you can expect from a jobo expert drum which has been a staple of large format development for years. It also doesn’t have holes on the side. The MK2 version of this reel is the best thing on the market for b/w, color neg, and color slide
Thank you, Dave!
My pleasure! Keep posted for new videos every Thursday
Thanks.
What about pre-wash to rinse off antihalation coating? It looks like the back of the film is pressed against the wall .
Michael Tullo prewash still removes the layer just fine, never had any issues in that regard, likely due to the fact that the sheet isn’t entirely pressed against the sides
@@DavesFilmLab , thanks. I was considering buying one, and that was my main concern.
That looks pretty slick
Are you still using the B reel cause I am fed up with the JOBO? What brand of tripod is used with the camera? What size of Patterson tank?
Yes i prefer a B’s reel with a Patterson 3 reel tank. Tripods are subjective, just make sure to get one that’s more than sturdy enough for your camera
What makes this superior to the Mod 54 though? Is it just easier to load?
The Mod 54 is workin pretty good for me.
Joel Sittler easier to load, smoother negatives, no possibility of a sheet becoming loose and sticking to the others, and it can do anywhere from one to six sheets where as mod54 gets weird results if you don’t load 6 sheets at a time
@@DavesFilmLab mmm, might give it a go. I does look pretty solid.
Hello - which drying rack were you using? Cheers
I just purchased one of B's 4x5 reels. Just curious if you've standardized on an agitation method/developer combination for Ilford films? Many thanks and keep up the good work!
Wayne Snider i typically will do 3 inversions every 30 seconds if the development time is below 6 minutes.... if it’s over 6 minutes, I’ll do 4 inversions every minute. Hope this helps :)
Can it be used for developing 4x5 direct positive paper ?
Marek Maje Yes, but I would just tray process that personally
Really like your videos! Thank you....
Monty Craig Thanks a bunch! Can’t wait to put out some more soon :)
Any issues with the removal of the anti-halation layer? Looks like an excellent option.
Not if you agitate / prewash enough. I agitate aggressively and do 5 minute prewash for all processes. E6, C41, and b/w
@@DavesFilmLab thanks for the reply. I'm new so I've never prewashed film simply because it wasn't recommended by the manufacturer. Have you ever tried it without a prewash?
@@smitty112877 Most manufacturers actually DO recommend a prewash. This ensures that the developer solution will evenly begin development of the film. No, In high school we were instructed to always prewash and so I’ve always done it. It’s especially crucial for c41 & E6 to ensure that the film & tank are already up to processing temperature.
@@DavesFilmLab right on, thanks for the info. I mostly shoot B&W and Ilford recommended against "pre-rinse". Evidently it's different for color/other manufacturers. I'll keep that in mind I appreciate it!
@@smitty112877 It’s funny cause the ilford sheet I’ve got recommends it. Which is it ilford??? Lol. But yea, I’d recommend it
Great video! What amount of chemistry do you put in the tank?
Thanks! About 950ml does it but I mix 1000ml to make things easy
Can't tell for sure due to video angles, but does the back side of the film get sufficient chemicals since it looks like it's flat against the wall. thanks.
HD Imaging there is adequate flow yes, but the important side is the emulsion side where things are happening. So yes, there is flow, but the emulsion side gets more
@@DavesFilmLab Thanks. Will look into getting this. Unfortunately, I will also have to get the 3 reel paterson also, only have the 2 reel now.
HD Imaging That way you can develop more film ;) at this point I’ve got an 8 reel tank, a 5 reel tank, and three 3 reel tanks
HD Imaging: the back has no emulsion or chemistry. It is just a clear support.
@@AtlantaTerrySome film has an anti-halation layer on the non-emulsion side that must be removed.
ok, checking it out! 😁
What volume of solution do you use to get even development? Is 500ml enough, or does it need some more?
Alex Makuch This is entirely based on the tank you have and whether you’re doing rotary or not. In a 3 reel tank, using rotary, I use 500ml.... if using hand inversions, I do 1000ml
@@DavesFilmLab Thanks!
Do I put this reel in the same Paterson tank as my 35/120 spools
Yea it fits in the Paterson 3 reel tank
@@DavesFilmLab are there issues with scraches when sliding the film along the walls of the reel.
@@Zetaphotography Not in my experience and all my negatives have yielded excellent prints
Hi were could I bye one of these from do you have any links too a web page thanks .
Paul Harding Link should be in the description
Great job man. 👍💪
Richard Swift Thanks! 🙏
do you wipe or squeegee sheet film before hanging?
Brian Entz I do not
deffo not. You will scratch the film.
Very interesting. I've just ordered my B's reel. Which lens did you use for the last two pictures (b&w) with the swirley bokeh? Probably wide open aperture? Ektar aero?
Jakob Olszewski 7” Kodak aero Ektar f2.5 shot wide open. Be sure to prewash really well with the b’s reel. Use heavy inversions during prewash and duration time of 2-3 minutes
Dave Rollans Films: Thank you. I always do prewash no matter which film format
Oh man, great video !!
Thanks! 🙏
Lovin the vids bro
TW Thanks! Stay tuned for new videos every Thursday
May I ask scratches issues if any
1911geek Not any more than I’ve noticed from any other developing reel. Scratches happen occasionally to negatives but I’ve never had any caused my a reel
Thanks for the video.
Do they stay curled
No they don’t. In my findings, curling has more to do with how they’re dried than anything else. Once I found a good drying method, I’ve not had a curled negative in years
How much developer do you use? Have you developed B&W with it?
Charlie Brown 800ml and yes, I’ve developed b/w, slide, and c41
@@DavesFilmLab thank you Dave. I couldn't find anything on their website about chemical requirements. I have a Patterson 3 reel for 120 film processing so this is very economical. Thanks for the video and info.
Charlie Brown Indeed! In the Paterson 3 reel tank I can do 4 rolls of 120, 6 sheets of 4x5, or 3 rolls of 35mm. Doesn’t get much better than that ;). The guy who makes these reels suggests following manufactures guidelines for chemical usage but I’ve found that 800ml works. For the rest of stuff I do in 120 & 35mm, I only use 500ml since I do rotary processing
Impossible to buy one - never available
Speykaster Sorry to hear that. Try the 20th Century Camera reels, that’s what I’ve switched to
@@DavesFilmLab Hi there, have you ever had any shadow marks in the centre of the film from where the centre hook holds the film in place, from using the 20th century 4x5 reel?
@@paulskinnerphoto Yes. The B’s reel got revised so I’m using that and a jobo expert drum at the moment
@@DavesFilmLab whats in your opinion is better - 20th cen reel or b's reel?
@@viktororlov2542 B’s by a long shot. Less damaged negatives and no flow marks around the negative clip on the 20th. B’s is much closer to a jobo expert drum