This video is absolutely fantastic. Just got off a dev session and this is bang on! But, you're dilution is out.....ever so slightly. 1+9 is 30ml of Ilfosol 3 and 270ml water. 1+9 is 10 parts, not 9. Keep up the videos. Love watching them!
Here’s the magic formula I came up with up with to match the exact cc’z that was in Ilford’s own processing video : Add the 1 + 12(or any other number) - in this case it’s “lucky” 13. Then divide the total amount by (in this case) 13. And the answer IS (drumroll) ….. 23.076923 cc’z of concentrate into 276.92308 cc’z of H20 = exactly 300 cc’z of working solution.
My parents bought me a Darkroom Film development kit for Christmas when I was 10. It taught me how to develop film and make enlargements. I enjoyed this hobby for many years and built a nice darkroom for many years. I still have my old photo enlarger other equipment. Eventually it became hard to buy photography development supplies and film because of the digital age. Now film photography is making a comeback, and I am back to refresh my memory and enjoy the hobby I learned 50 plus years ago. Film is way better than digital.
its a bit expensive in the beginning because it requires all that tools but in the long run its worth it if you shoot alot of BW film, and btw you can use a smaller dilution to save more chemicals, i do a 1:14 dilution for ilfold hp5 (43ml of ifosol3 + 557ml of water, for 2 rolls), you just have to wait 5 min more but thats it
I think the proportions are wrong. It is 1+9 for developer, meaning 1 part developer and 9 parts water, there are 10 parts total. We divide 300ml by 10 and get round 30ml of developer and 270ml water.
I highly recommend adding the second spool even if you're only developing one film. When you shake the canister too hard or pour out liquid, the spool could slide and therefore not be fully submerged in the chemicals.
@@ramseykiefer yeah i really wanted to get this out to everyone since it was the reason I messed up my first film 😭😭😭 It was ecn2 tho and I had to shake for remjet removal... probably not that shaky when doing b/w...
I need to really say just how much I absolutely loved this video. It gets me so excited to try and do this myself. I don't know how long this video took to make but I can't overstate my appreciation for it existing. Thank you.
Such an epic video! Instead of opening the film canister, I cut the leader and insert a few inches in the spool (similar to yours) prior to putting everything in the dark bag. Continue feeding the rest of the film through the spool and cut at the end. This reduces the steps fumbling inside the dark bag, plus, you could use the canister for bulk loading.
It’s not hard to pop open a 35mm cartridge and cut the leader and thread a reel in a darkroom. Doing roll film with paper backing like 120/220 is a little harder just takes some practice. Ratcheting Patterson reels are easier than metal reels where you pierce the end of the leader then wind.
Fixer is reusable for several rolls of film. It removes unexposed silver from the emulsion of the film. Back in High school 51 years ago we saved all expired fixer in a separate bottle. When we gathered enough fixer we would add several grams of powdered zinc to the mix and stir well. You can decant the liquid into another container and add some more zinc powder and gather the precipitate. This now can be dried and sent in to certain recyclers to recover the silver that the zinc removed from solution. It provided the photo club with a few dollars to purchase small items we needed for the lab. I have loaded black and white film under the proper safelight in the past. Indicator stop bath from Kodak is what I have used in the past instead of just rinsing with water. Stop bath is just acidic acid.
I just want to say, in the stop motion video you did, I love how you had the "stop bath" water come out of the tank. Like, nothing comes out of the overturned tank, then a chunk/stream of water drops out. Made me smile.
"developing film at home is kinda like parenting it's not about delegating responsibility it's about being there thru the developer and the fixer and just like your kids your negatives will most likely let you down but at least you can say you were there every step of the way" fyeeeeee
I was really considering developing some black and white film at home to ease me into the home developing stuff. I had no idea you did this video! Thank you so much I love the sunday strolls SO MUCH
This was hilarious! Thanks for this fun refresher course. Its been decades since I've developed my own B&W film. I have thousands to B&W images in their sheets and in two, very big three Ring binders. I am now scanning them at how so that these images aren't just lost in a book somewhere. They can also be lost on a hardrive somewhere! ;) Anyhow, thanks again for the info and a fun video!
Great video, I found my old film camera while I was going through some things and my daughter thought it was the coolest thing in the world, so I thought I would get some black and white film and we could have a go at developing it at home, I have a film scanner I purchased to scan a bunch of my mums old slides so should be a fun family activity.
Great video I love how easy it can be it motivates me to try it out in the near future! And btw love your channel it’s so unique and fun to watch the content you make keep it up!
Yo Captain Keef ! This video could have helped so much when I started developing film 6 months ago. I feel that a combination of the swizzle stick and inverting the Tank helps. Increased frequency and intensity of agitation seems to increase contrast and grain. Eventually everyone will have their own idiosyncrasies or preference to get the results they want. Appreciate the animation and music ! Also the Ilford rinse method saves water
My wife and I did darkroom developing/printing in our kitchen when we first married... fifty years ago. This month, (Aug. , 2024 is 51 years since I had that pleasure. Last week, my sister gave me her complete darkroom. Looks like I will be turning a bedroom into a darkroom.
recent new subscriber here enjoying all the sunday strolls been binge watching this past few days. this is super helpful since i've just gotten back to film recently and was thinking of just shooting black and white cause of the costs. i'll try developing at home and will use this vid of yours as a reference. thanks ramsey!
Cannister caps aren't the best way to extract your film, especially if you are a beginner. Using a slip in "tongue" style extractor is much easier and fool proof. You can take out the bit of the film thats already been exposed and get it hooked onto your reels in the light, which leaves only the winding necessary to do in the dark. Greatly reduces fumbling and is much easier.
Thanks for this easy to follow video. I've been so convinced since I wss a kid that this was some kind of super skilled process I'd never be able to do myself. But I'm gonna jump to the dark side and try it out now that 30 years later I am back into film.
I remember the old Kodak darkroom guides that said you could develop in your kitchen sink and use your measuring cup when it got dark. I ALWAYS thought that was dangerous to have those chemicals in the sink you wash dishes in. Remember that book? When you build a darkroom include ventilation fans.
Great video but question: so the temperature of the water during the stop bath does not matter? It's summer time and the tap water temp is around 83 Fahrenheit at the moment
I have recently been interested in film photography, that's why I started watching the video. I will watch your videos regularly whether I start film photography or not °_° Great Video!
Hi, when loading the film, is there something I am missing? When I am in the dark room at uni, I find my film (35 and 120) unwinds during the agitation periods - sometimes meaning i have to go fishing for it in the tanks :( I really like this idea though!
i live in australia so during summer it would be impossible to ensure it is 20C unless i want to make my energy bill skyrocket is there anything i can do
@@elijahdonnelly2411 don’t give up man. Plenty of people correctly develop film consistently but it takes some getting used to. I would suggest not getting too attached to certain shots while you are still going though the roll, and remember that you will take potentially thousands more photos in your lifetime. If you are documenting life events it doesn’t hurt to snap some pics on your phone too rather than rely on film only.
Fixer is not to prevent fading, it's actually what makes film transparent - developer is turning exposed silver halide to pure silver, and fixer removes remaining, unexposed, silver halide.
@@ramseykiefer before fixing, film is opaque, so there is still no image, only latent image. Yes, if you expose film, or just leave it for a long period of time, between development and fixing, the image will fade (actually, the final image will have haze), but you will not see the image without using a fixer.
@@ramseykiefer It's always a pity when someone posts a YT video on technical subjects they do not understand. When exposed film is developed, the developer chemically converts exposed silver halide crystals into oxidized silver metal deposits in the emulsion. The fixer chemically dissolves the undeveloped halide crystals and fully removes it from the emulsion. If done properly, this leaves only the oxidized silver metal deposits in the emulsion to form the image. Incomplete fixing can leave some undeveloped silver halide in the emulsion, and that can chemically cloud the film over time, but it does not "fade your image away". Fixer can also dissolve the silver image forming deposits, but at a vastly slower rate than for silver halide. So, if you properly wash out the fixer, removing its active chemicals from the emulsion, then your silver image should be practically permanent. However, if you leave residual fixer in the emulsion from a poor washing, then its active components will dry in the emulsion and may continue to dissolve the silver image over time, particularly if the film is stored in a poor environment, such as a high humidity. (There is an argument that retaining a tiny amount of fixer in the emulsion can act to preserve the image forming silver - another discussion for another day).
In 2024 we can make almost any 3D model on our desktop, but we can’t have a fast mini developer. Heck one day we can make our own personal lab diamonds I’m sure.
i spot your the princess bride, night of the living dead, the manchurian candidate, dr. strangelove, easy rider, the graduate and blue velvet criterion. nice!
What the heck dude, why have you not jumped into my subscriptions already?! The editing style, the format, the tempo, and the succinct content… you are my new favorite film guy. Hi, nice to meet you!
Can you recommend the best (and preferably cheapest) B&W developing kit? I have no equipment or chemicals as I am a beginner. I'm also working on a small budget (HOPEFULLY $200 CAD or less...) Seems like a better investment than spending $20-$30 every time to develop a single roll of B&W at the lab, although I'll still go to the lab for colour
I’d start out with the Ilford film processing starter kit. It’s around 100 dollars and has just about every thing you need, you just need a changing bag or a dark bathroom ;)
To add, I think the cheapest you can get started with is a one-reel Paterson tank , a thermometer, and a monobath developer, like Cinestill's. I have used the monobath in the past and it yielded pretty good results. It has a time release fixer, so it's really hard to mess up your development process (at that stage at least)
Thanks, very informative, brings back memories of developing printing film, same process, same shit. One question: didn't we use back in the day a red light instead of a tent?
For printing, you definitely can, but for getting the film on the spool, not unless you are spooling orthochromatic film stock. Most black and white films are panchromatic. If you're looking for Ortho film, it usually indicates it in the name of the film, if you're not sure, you can always check the spectral sensitivity chart.
When you're mixing the developer, I think the 1:9 ratio means 1 part dev to 9 parts water, therefore 10 parts total out of 300mL. So the math becomes easier, it's 1/10 dev, 9/10 water: 30mL dev, 270mL water. Rather than 1/9 dev, 8/9 water. Excellent video though!!
Haha Duuuuuuude! Ya caught me 😅 I’m a moron. I was never no good at math. I need to go back and add a disclaimer in there. Thanks for reaching out and letting me know! (And for being so chill about it) If anything i think it shows that you can totally miss measure the chemistry and still get a decent development. I use to think it was a fragile process, but turns out it’s a forgiving one.
I just saw your year old video. After managing three darkrooms/labs (color and Black and white) and teaching same for nearly 60 years, I had a good laugh (enjoying) your video. Don't be insulted by suggestions. Water can be used to sub for Stop Bath, but will not stop the development process immediately like Stop Bath (an acid)(water will slow the development). You are relying on the fixer to actually stop the development which it will do, but you are cutting the life of the fixer (silver deposits in fixer - that would normally be left in stop bath). Wetting agents at the end are not necessary - a simple Soft sponge wipe down will prevent the spotting (careful not to scratch film). Changing bags are far more convenient than your tent (much less obtrusive it would seem to me). Another suggestion - I always had every student open film canister and load reel for developing tank - with blank or dummy film before trying to do in film changing bag. Many struggled with that task - could not seem to wind film in reel correctly - watching and learning how to do it first is the answer.
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
This video is absolutely fantastic. Just got off a dev session and this is bang on! But, you're dilution is out.....ever so slightly. 1+9 is 30ml of Ilfosol 3 and 270ml water. 1+9 is 10 parts, not 9.
Keep up the videos. Love watching them!
Oh dear 😅 thanks for the correction! Math was never my strong suit
Here’s the magic formula I came up with up with to match the exact cc’z that was in Ilford’s own processing video :
Add the 1 + 12(or any other number) - in this case it’s “lucky” 13.
Then divide the total amount by (in this case) 13.
And the answer IS (drumroll) ….. 23.076923 cc’z of concentrate into 276.92308 cc’z of H20 = exactly 300 cc’z of working solution.
I think we have a different definition of “a few things” 😅😂
Was just about to say the same. 1 to 9 gives you 10 parts total.
My parents bought me a Darkroom Film development kit for Christmas when I was 10. It taught me how to develop film and make enlargements. I enjoyed this hobby for many years and built a nice darkroom for many years. I still have my old photo enlarger other equipment. Eventually it became hard to buy photography development supplies and film because of the digital age. Now film photography is making a comeback, and I am back to refresh my memory and enjoy the hobby I learned 50 plus years ago. Film is way better than digital.
I just paid $25 bucks to get ONE roll of B&W developed! Screw that! I’m flying solo from now on. Thanks for the tips K man 😎🤙
its a bit expensive in the beginning because it requires all that tools but in the long run its worth it if you shoot alot of BW film, and btw you can use a smaller dilution to save more chemicals, i do a 1:14 dilution for ilfold hp5 (43ml of ifosol3 + 557ml of water, for 2 rolls), you just have to wait 5 min more but thats it
@@sharkpyro93 Thanks for the tips!
Where I live, there isn't even anyone around who will develop so I'm having to learn to do it all myself. Seeing the prices, glad I am lol
It's true, IF film labs go out of business, it's their OWN fault for being so greedy, the prices these days are scandalous 🤬
I think the proportions are wrong. It is 1+9 for developer, meaning 1 part developer and 9 parts water, there are 10 parts total. We divide 300ml by 10 and get round 30ml of developer and 270ml water.
Came to the comments to confirm this. It probably doesnt matter ALL that much but this is the correct math on 9:1. He effectively made an 8:1 mix
Excellent. Clear, concise, instructive and amusing. Thank you Ramsey!
Instant sub. Love that you refuse to take yourself seriously.
I highly recommend adding the second spool even if you're only developing one film. When you shake the canister too hard or pour out liquid, the spool could slide and therefore not be fully submerged in the chemicals.
Thanks for saying something dude! That’s a great point!
@@ramseykiefer yeah i really wanted to get this out to everyone since it was the reason I messed up my first film 😭😭😭
It was ecn2 tho and I had to shake for remjet removal... probably not that shaky when doing b/w...
Wouldn’t be an at home vid without Elena’s space heater in the background. This took me back to hs developing film in the dark room. Great video!
that thing is always on ;)
I need to really say just how much I absolutely loved this video. It gets me so excited to try and do this myself. I don't know how long this video took to make but I can't overstate my appreciation for it existing. Thank you.
Such an epic video!
Instead of opening the film canister, I cut the leader and insert a few inches in the spool (similar to yours) prior to putting everything in the dark bag. Continue feeding the rest of the film through the spool and cut at the end. This reduces the steps fumbling inside the dark bag, plus, you could use the canister for bulk loading.
Or make fancy keychains haha
@@shutterspeed2546 haha 100%!
So do I, using a film retriever
It’s not hard to pop open a 35mm cartridge and cut the leader and thread a reel in a darkroom. Doing roll film with paper backing like 120/220 is a little harder just takes some practice. Ratcheting Patterson reels are easier than metal reels where you pierce the end of the leader then wind.
Fixer is reusable for several rolls of film. It removes unexposed silver from the emulsion of the film. Back in High school 51 years ago we saved all expired fixer in a separate bottle. When we gathered enough fixer we would add several grams of powdered zinc to the mix and stir well. You can decant the liquid into another container and add some more zinc powder and gather the precipitate. This now can be dried and sent in to certain recyclers to recover the silver that the zinc removed from solution. It provided the photo club with a few dollars to purchase small items we needed for the lab.
I have loaded black and white film under the proper safelight in the past. Indicator stop bath from Kodak is what I have used in the past instead of just rinsing with water. Stop bath is just acidic acid.
I just want to say, in the stop motion video you did, I love how you had the "stop bath" water come out of the tank. Like, nothing comes out of the overturned tank, then a chunk/stream of water drops out. Made me smile.
This is so simple and perfectly performed. Really enjoyed it! Bring on!
you're hilarious! darkroom tent faces got me crackin up 😂
Bro your animation skills 🔥🔥🔥
thanks homie!!!
"developing film at home is kinda like parenting
it's not about delegating responsibility
it's about being there thru the developer and the fixer
and just like your kids your negatives will most likely let you down
but at least you can say you were there
every step of the way"
fyeeeeee
This has been my permanent go-to reminder every time I develop film. Some great information and it works everything.
I was really considering developing some black and white film at home to ease me into the home developing stuff. I had no idea you did this video! Thank you so much I love the sunday strolls SO MUCH
This was hilarious! Thanks for this fun refresher course. Its been decades since I've developed my own B&W film. I have thousands to B&W images in their sheets and in two, very big three Ring binders. I am now scanning them at how so that these images aren't just lost in a book somewhere. They can also be lost on a hardrive somewhere! ;)
Anyhow, thanks again for the info and a fun video!
how do you not have more subscribers! this is one of the best film photography videos i’ve seen!
Great video, I found my old film camera while I was going through some things and my daughter thought it was the coolest thing in the world, so I thought I would get some black and white film and we could have a go at developing it at home, I have a film scanner I purchased to scan a bunch of my mums old slides so should be a fun family activity.
Im older, 50. Its fascinating how moustaches have changed. When I was young everyone stash looked like Magnum PI. Now they look more like Higgins.
This was such a fun video! Really well shot and edited. Great work 😊
Thank you so much!!!!
This was informative, entertaining yet funny as hell. Keep them coming
I liked what you did with the tape over the shower bar that let you use the peg to attach it to the tape which was on the bar. Very good Idea.
you seem so kind and explain very well, thank you !!
5.38 'give it a flick' got me xD ...Great video, exactly what I needed as a refresher for home dev. TY
We literally have the same set up. Down to the funnels. Was so trippy watching this.
Great video I love how easy it can be it motivates me to try it out in the near future! And btw love your channel it’s so unique and fun to watch the content you make keep it up!
Eduardo! Let me know how it goes! Thanks man
Yo Captain Keef ! This video could have helped so much when I started developing film 6 months ago. I feel that a combination of the swizzle stick and inverting the Tank helps. Increased frequency and intensity of agitation seems to increase contrast and grain. Eventually everyone will have their own idiosyncrasies or preference to get the results they want. Appreciate the animation and music ! Also the Ilford rinse method saves water
Great to hear!
The paper-mation was amazing
I'm really glad you like them!!
this video has given me the confidence to do my own developing, i blame you for making it look so easy ;-)
My wife and I did darkroom developing/printing in our kitchen when we first married... fifty years ago. This month, (Aug. , 2024 is 51 years since I had that pleasure. Last week, my sister gave me her complete darkroom. Looks like I will be turning a bedroom into a darkroom.
recent new subscriber here enjoying all the sunday strolls been binge watching this past few days.
this is super helpful since i've just gotten back
to film recently and was thinking of just shooting black and white cause of the costs. i'll try developing at home and will use this vid of yours as a reference. thanks ramsey!
Thanks for watching!! Stoked you like the channel!
Great demo. Inspiring. And you made me laugh out loud.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Very nice 👌
I will do it today
Your expression while loading film is very funny 😂
Thanks for video
Cannister caps aren't the best way to extract your film, especially if you are a beginner. Using a slip in "tongue" style extractor is much easier and fool proof.
You can take out the bit of the film thats already been exposed and get it hooked onto your reels in the light, which leaves only the winding necessary to do in the dark.
Greatly reduces fumbling and is much easier.
dude this is an awesome video i’m definitely going to start developing my BW film after years of using the lab. thank you!
Thanks for this easy to follow video. I've been so convinced since I wss a kid that this was some kind of super skilled process I'd never be able to do myself. But I'm gonna jump to the dark side and try it out now that 30 years later I am back into film.
Production value and music 10/10. 👌🤌🔥
Bought some film today but I forgot that you had to develop it, but I guess it's fun to learn something new!
It’s been a minute. Missed these videos the past few weeks. Editing skills are coming along (with the jokes too). Well done!
Thank you sir!!!
I love the closing statement bruh
I just got done scanning the 5 rolls I developed yesterday here was a new video waiting for me!
Haha perfect timing!
That stop motion was smooth
glad you thought so!
I remember the old Kodak darkroom guides that said you could develop in your kitchen sink and use your measuring cup when it got dark. I ALWAYS thought that was dangerous to have those chemicals in the sink you wash dishes in. Remember that book? When you build a darkroom include ventilation fans.
not even a minute of this video/on you're channel and i can clearly see the casey neistat film techniques/inspiration here :D love it
Great video but question: so the temperature of the water during the stop bath does not matter? It's summer time and the tap water temp is around 83 Fahrenheit at the moment
Youre back! Lets goooo!
haha thanks for being patient!
I have recently been interested in film photography, that's why I started watching the video. I will watch your videos regularly whether I start film photography or not °_°
Great Video!
You should try it! you'll have a great time!
Great video. I love your humor.
Thanks so much!
can you re-use the developer or do you need to dump it after one use? and how often can you re-use the fixer? nice video 👍
Does the fixer need to be in an opaque bottle or did you just reuse that brown one?
that was both entertaining and educational
I last did this 40 years ago. You'd think by now they would have invented an easier way of developing a film.
Hi, when loading the film, is there something I am missing? When I am in the dark room at uni, I find my film (35 and 120) unwinds during the agitation periods - sometimes meaning i have to go fishing for it in the tanks :(
I really like this idea though!
i live in australia so during summer it would be impossible to ensure it is 20C unless i want to make my energy bill skyrocket is there anything i can do
Fantastic video! be proud of yourself
Brilliant video.❤ do you have one for printing
Great video. Thanks for sharing your process!
Can’t wait to try
Thanks for this! Looking forward to try one myself soon
does this technique have a specific name? need it for my project
Nothing hurts more than pulling out a blank roll from the tank and realizing all this shots you were excited for no longer exists :(((((((
Why would it be blank?
@@Wilkins325 I think it's because there was an error in my developing process. But I'm not sure what that error was.
@@elijahdonnelly2411 don’t give up man. Plenty of people correctly develop film consistently but it takes some getting used to. I would suggest not getting too attached to certain shots while you are still going though the roll, and remember that you will take potentially thousands more photos in your lifetime. If you are documenting life events it doesn’t hurt to snap some pics on your phone too rather than rely on film only.
@@Wilkins325 Thanks :)
Give us more videos!!!! They are amazing
Thank you!! ❤️📸🤘🏼
Fixer is not to prevent fading, it's actually what makes film transparent - developer is turning exposed silver halide to pure silver, and fixer removes remaining, unexposed, silver halide.
True, but the remaining halide crystals will slowly become exposed and fade your image away ;)
@@ramseykiefer before fixing, film is opaque, so there is still no image, only latent image. Yes, if you expose film, or just leave it for a long period of time, between development and fixing, the image will fade (actually, the final image will have haze), but you will not see the image without using a fixer.
@@ramseykiefer It's always a pity when someone posts a YT video on technical subjects they do not understand. When exposed film is developed, the developer chemically converts exposed silver halide crystals into oxidized silver metal deposits in the emulsion. The fixer chemically dissolves the undeveloped halide crystals and fully removes it from the emulsion. If done properly, this leaves only the oxidized silver metal deposits in the emulsion to form the image. Incomplete fixing can leave some undeveloped silver halide in the emulsion, and that can chemically cloud the film over time, but it does not "fade your image away". Fixer can also dissolve the silver image forming deposits, but at a vastly slower rate than for silver halide. So, if you properly wash out the fixer, removing its active chemicals from the emulsion, then your silver image should be practically permanent. However, if you leave residual fixer in the emulsion from a poor washing, then its active components will dry in the emulsion and may continue to dissolve the silver image over time, particularly if the film is stored in a poor environment, such as a high humidity. (There is an argument that retaining a tiny amount of fixer in the emulsion can act to preserve the image forming silver - another discussion for another day).
I dont have any of these in my country so what i should do?
Thanks, I watched this video, It helps me understand the topic of my instructor. (Forensic Photography)
Lovely. Informative, and funny -- thank you!
Honestly, great video 😂👏🏾
I'm gonna try this.... Thanks man..
Thanks for this. There’s something so relaxing about your videos. What’s your scanning process?
I scan with the negative supply 35mm holder and a Sony A9 with a 90mm macro lens.
In 2024 we can make almost any 3D model on our desktop, but we can’t have a fast mini developer. Heck one day we can make our own personal lab diamonds I’m sure.
How long is your final wash?
I'm thinking I'll need to sacrifice a roll just to practice loading it. This looks nerve-racking but I'm tired of mailing my film.
Do it!! It’s really not that bad!!
@@ramseykieferMy lab set me up with my stuff today. I'm doing it!
i spot your the princess bride, night of the living dead, the manchurian candidate, dr. strangelove, easy rider, the graduate and blue velvet criterion. nice!
haha there some good ones on there
Amazing video!
Is that a casio A168?
you are hilarious, earned a sub! ❤
I appreciate it! Thanks for watching!
What the heck dude, why have you not jumped into my subscriptions already?! The editing style, the format, the tempo, and the succinct content… you are my new favorite film guy. Hi, nice to meet you!
Haha i appreciate that! Glad you enjoy!
that animation was so sick
Great Video, you just forgot the part where you scan the film so you can look at the pictures with your phone.
Underrated dude
Can you recommend the best (and preferably cheapest) B&W developing kit?
I have no equipment or chemicals as I am a beginner. I'm also working on a small budget (HOPEFULLY $200 CAD or less...)
Seems like a better investment than spending $20-$30 every time to develop a single roll of B&W at the lab, although I'll still go to the lab for colour
I’d start out with the Ilford film processing starter kit. It’s around 100 dollars and has just about every thing you need, you just need a changing bag or a dark bathroom ;)
To add, I think the cheapest you can get started with is a one-reel Paterson tank , a thermometer, and a monobath developer, like Cinestill's. I have used the monobath in the past and it yielded pretty good results. It has a time release fixer, so it's really hard to mess up your development process (at that stage at least)
The restaurant I work at has the same red clown thing, can you tell me what it says idk that language
Amazing video! Entertaining, interesting, and just fun to watch. Good work Rams!
Control temperature!!!!! Use demineralized water or reverse osmosis filtered at home!!! Keeping the dust of the negatives when drying is really hard….
"just like your kids, your negative will likely let you down" 😂
Thanks, very informative, brings back memories of developing printing film, same process, same shit. One question: didn't we use back in the day a red light instead of a tent?
For printing, you definitely can, but for getting the film on the spool, not unless you are spooling orthochromatic film stock. Most black and white films are panchromatic. If you're looking for Ortho film, it usually indicates it in the name of the film, if you're not sure, you can always check the spectral sensitivity chart.
That stop motion!
wash time ?hypo clearing agent?
What about DF96 Monobath?
Can you reuse the developer?
so well done what are you filming your videos with, great content all a matter of time before some big growth
Fingers crossed! Glad you like it!
I actually recognize that photo developing shop at the beginning 👀
When you're mixing the developer, I think the 1:9 ratio means 1 part dev to 9 parts water, therefore 10 parts total out of 300mL. So the math becomes easier, it's 1/10 dev, 9/10 water: 30mL dev, 270mL water. Rather than 1/9 dev, 8/9 water. Excellent video though!!
Haha Duuuuuuude! Ya caught me 😅 I’m a moron. I was never no good at math.
I need to go back and add a disclaimer in there. Thanks for reaching out and letting me know! (And for being so chill about it) If anything i think it shows that you can totally miss measure the chemistry and still get a decent development. I use to think it was a fragile process, but turns out it’s a forgiving one.
5:15 Like this to give one RIP for that sacrificed roll of HP5 🙏 (thanks for this awesome video!)
is there any way you could get any closer to the camera, 2:35 felt like you were gonna kiss me
I just saw your year old video. After managing three darkrooms/labs (color and Black and white) and teaching same for nearly 60 years, I had a good laugh (enjoying) your video. Don't be insulted by suggestions. Water can be used to sub for Stop Bath, but will not stop the development process immediately like Stop Bath (an acid)(water will slow the development). You are relying on the fixer to actually stop the development which it will do, but you are cutting the life of the fixer (silver deposits in fixer - that would normally be left in stop bath). Wetting agents at the end are not necessary - a simple Soft sponge wipe down will prevent the spotting (careful not to scratch film). Changing bags are far more convenient than your tent (much less obtrusive it would seem to me). Another suggestion - I always had every student open film canister and load reel for developing tank - with blank or dummy film before trying to do in film changing bag. Many struggled with that task - could not seem to wind film in reel correctly - watching and learning how to do it first is the answer.
Excellent!