This was a great video: Timestamps; succinct information with visuals, examples, and listed used products; and humor-- all in about 6 minutes. That's some good quality Youtubin' right there.
I can’t tell if you’re a human, or some sort of benevolent AI meant to encourage me to make more videos. Either way…clever…very clever…maybe a little too clever…🧐
@@SuperVassarBrothers Listen, I’m not SAYING that Skynet is just around corner, but once we (hypothetical; I’m totally human) figure out how to pass CAPTCHAs, it’s over.
Fun Fact "You are actually watching paint dry" 😂🤣😂 Thanks for that tip! The other night I was gonna go off on a coating spree but I left it to dry for 2 hours and then said... "Daaaang, I'm finished!" 😎
Emerald Urethane has a generous open time so I’ve never found it necessary. If it works for you then go for it, but often times I think people are just not moving fast enough or are over working the product.
I really like how to the point and practical your videos are. Do you expand anywhere on brushing versus spraying? I come at this as a finish carpenter who is starting to get calls to paint on side jobs, which I want to make a focus of my professional development, and I am trying to assess what I actually need to do to start getting high quality finishes on my own projects, before I start offering to paint my own work with clients (who often don't want to manage multiple contractors, understandably). I really want to stay airless though, as I just don't carry a large enough compressor to spray, nor does my work flow have any need for one. I am getting the distinct impression that you are a professional who does a lot of brushing. What dictates that? where is it acceptable? where is it not? I assume brushing larger flat surfaces like say, shelving and benches is less acceptable than say, brushing window casing or baseboard? Are there jobs you can't brush? how do you manage client expectations when it comes to brushed trim, whereas a lot of new home construction is sprayed?
Great questions! I'll do my best to hit on each question you asked. Here's a video where I touch on different finish types: ruclips.net/video/-sVm8ltOKe4/видео.html Airless is still pretty much the way to go if you're going to spray. The HVLPs don't have enough juice to push through a lot of different products and most guys aren't hauling around a Kremlin sprayer with the necessary compressor. In general, painters tend to specialize and end up doing certain kinds of work. There are crews that mostly spray, and then there are crews that do mostly brush and roller work. New construction gets sprayed because those houses are empty and they have the run of the place. Often the flooring and other elements are not installed when those homes get painted. In my experience, builder's grade paint jobs tend to be hot garbage unless you've had a really nice custom home builder do it. Once you get into homes where the owners are moved in and living there then the work starts to look a bit different. Big exteriors often get sprayed as that's generally the best way to do that work. Guys that refinish cabinets also spray. Usually with an airless and a fine finish tip. Another common workflow for crews is to spray the trim and doors first then brush and roll the ceiling and walls. Keep in mind that the prep out is quite extensive when using a sprayer, and if you mess up it can be a big problem. Overspray is no bueno. My crew is a fine finish crew and we don't do a lot of spray work. We use to, and still will use a sprayer from time to time, but we prefer to use brush and rollers. Most of the work we do is high-end residential, so we're dealing with fully furnished homes. As it is with most things, painters can produce an exceptional level of finish using brush and roller and they can produce an absolute crap finish using a brush and roller. The same is true of crews that spray. It comes down to what skills you've developed, what products you use, and the type of work that you do. On a related side note, I'll be launching a podcast on this channel in January where I'll be able to answer questions like yours in more depth. Thanks again for watching and for the questions!
Ugh. I have brush strokes on my second coat. If I sand it, what’s the best sandpaper to use? 320? I’m about to pull my hair out with this piece of furniture. Any help would be so appreciated. Thank you so much.
You’ll have to use a lower grit than 320. I’d try 150 or 220. Keep in mind that if you’re brushing on the product then you will have brush strokes. You just want them to be minimal and aesthetically pleasing. This video may be helpful as well. I paint a wood stool using emerald urethane. Good luck with your piece of furniture and try not to beat yourself up too bad! How To Paint Wood Furniture Without a Sprayer ruclips.net/video/w3QtnLCdVys/видео.html
@@SuperVassarBrothers thank you so much! Im new to painting and I’m working with an extremely stubborn piece! I used Krud kutter and cleaned it many times. I am new to this, and I am now learning. I should not have used a light pink on a piece that continues to have a brown rag. With that said, I did two coats of shellac on the piece and when I went to paint it in the light pink, tannins still came through the paint. I then applied two more coats of shellac to the areas that were discolored and repainted over those. My piece looked great. Until I went to apply polycrylic. Then, tannins came through in other areas. 😭 So I went to apply two more coats of shellac and my last coat has a ton of brush strokes. Needless to say, I’m about to chunk this piece in a fire pit. Not really, but kind of feel that way.
Any suggestions how to touch up texture(orange peal) repair on the ceiling. Trying to avoid visible patches. This is a brand new construction. Thank you.
Touching up orange peel texture on a ceiling involves a few specific steps to ensure that the repaired area blends seamlessly with the existing texture. Here’s a step-by-step guide: ### Materials Needed: - Drywall compound or texture spray (a can of spray texture designed to match orange peel) - Drywall knife or putty knife - Fine-grit sandpaper (e.g., 220 grit) - Primer (if needed) - Paint that matches your ceiling color - Drop cloths and masking tape for protection ### Steps: 1. **Prep the Area**: - Protect the surrounding area with drop cloths and use masking tape to cover edges and areas you don’t want to texture. - If the area has been patched or repaired, make sure it’s dry and smooth. Sand it lightly with fine-grit sandpaper to blend the edges with the surrounding texture. 2. **Apply the Texture**: - **Using a Spray Can**: If you’re using a texture spray can, shake it well and hold it about 18-24 inches from the ceiling. Practice spraying on a piece of cardboard first to get the hang of the spray pattern and distance. - Apply the spray in light, even coats. It’s better to build up the texture gradually rather than applying too much at once. - **Using a Roller**: If you're applying by hand, thin the drywall compound to the consistency of pancake batter. Use a roller with a thick nap to apply the compound in a thin, even layer, creating the desired texture. Roll in one direction and then back over it to ensure even coverage. 3. **Blend with Existing Texture**: - After applying the texture, allow it to set for a few minutes. If needed, gently tap or dab the wet texture with a drywall knife or brush to help it blend with the surrounding area. 4. **Drying**: - Let the texture dry completely. This could take several hours, depending on the product and the thickness of the application. 5. **Sand and Touch Up**: - Once the texture is dry, lightly sand the area with fine-grit sandpaper to smooth out any rough spots and ensure it matches the existing texture. Be gentle to avoid flattening the texture too much. 6. **Prime and Paint**: - If the area was sanded significantly or if it’s a large repair, apply a coat of primer to the textured area. This helps the paint adhere evenly. - Finally, paint the touched-up area with ceiling paint that matches the existing color. Feather the paint out slightly beyond the touched-up area to blend it with the surrounding surface. By following these steps, you should be able to successfully touch up the orange peel texture on your ceiling and achieve a consistent, professional-looking finish.
@@SuperVassarBrothers Thank you. I had texture fixed by my sub but the painters did the touched on there repair but offer my inspection texture repair was not acceptable. So I had an another report done by a seasoned professional and it was done right. But I don’t want to bring in a painter for another ring of touch up(trying to avoid additional cost since I am way over). So I am trying to do this on my own since it’s only 5-7 spots of repair and I have all the primer and paint. Paint is only a week or so old.
I've seen people around the interwebs saying that if you use Advance in a white, it can end up yellowing over time. Is that accurate? I'm using Super White to match some pure white poly shutters that I (probably?) can't paint, and yellowing would cause the already-not-perfectly-matched color to be even more off. Also - do you still like Command as a trim paint? On a previous comment you had mentioned how much you like it. These are the two paints on my list to redo my trim, but I haven't committed to either yet. Always love the information in your videos, you're a great educator.
You mentioned shutters in the first part of your comment. Be aware that Advance is not an exterior paint so if you’re painting exterior trim then I’d go with Moorglo Soft Gloss from Benjamin Moore. Advance can yellow over time although I haven’t experienced for myself. The majority of the trim work we do, we use Emerald Urethane Trim enamel and I’m quite happy with it. Command is good as a specialty product for certain applications. I wouldn’t use it to redo your trim. My top picks for painting trim would be 1) Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel 2) Moorglo Soft-Gloss for exterior trim 3) regular Emerald Semi-gloss (it’s an acrylic and super easy to work with. This is a great option if you are newer to painting or think that the Emerald Urethane is overkill)
@@SuperVassarBrothers Interior plantation shutters, made from a poly material instead of wood so I don't think I can paint them. I believe it also voids the warranty. I will keep that other paint in mind for exterior though! Any tips on keeping a toddler away from trim with a long open time? 😅 Thanks again for all the info, it's really helpful for us noobs. Looking forward to the next vid!
Want to paint like me? Go here: www.skool.com/paint-your-home-now-7523/about
Want the best paints? Go here: www.paintyourhomenow.com/free-guide-
This was a great video: Timestamps; succinct information with visuals, examples, and listed used products; and humor-- all in about 6 minutes. That's some good quality Youtubin' right there.
I can’t tell if you’re a human, or some sort of benevolent AI meant to encourage me to make more videos. Either way…clever…very clever…maybe a little too clever…🧐
@@SuperVassarBrothers Listen, I’m not SAYING that Skynet is just around corner, but once we (hypothetical; I’m totally human) figure out how to pass CAPTCHAs, it’s over.
Fun Fact "You are actually watching paint dry" 😂🤣😂 Thanks for that tip! The other night I was gonna go off on a coating spree but I left it to dry for 2 hours and then said... "Daaaang, I'm finished!" 😎
Haha, I’m glad it worked out 🫡
So good man. Thank you. Love this channel so much.
Thanks my dude! I appreciate it. Lots more coming 🫡
Under rated channel. Great information!
Hahaha, it’s moving along. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Agree 💯%😊
Great video! Love the humor!
Thanks for watching and I’m glad you found it somewhat humorous! 😄
Great tips. I’ve been overworking the paint for sure.
I hope it helps! Thanks for watching 🫡
What do you think about the additive Floetrol Flood for Emerald?
Emerald Urethane has a generous open time so I’ve never found it necessary. If it works for you then go for it, but often times I think people are just not moving fast enough or are over working the product.
@@SuperVassarBrothers Thank you so much for responding! Your videos have been very helpful!
I really like how to the point and practical your videos are. Do you expand anywhere on brushing versus spraying? I come at this as a finish carpenter who is starting to get calls to paint on side jobs, which I want to make a focus of my professional development, and I am trying to assess what I actually need to do to start getting high quality finishes on my own projects, before I start offering to paint my own work with clients (who often don't want to manage multiple contractors, understandably). I really want to stay airless though, as I just don't carry a large enough compressor to spray, nor does my work flow have any need for one.
I am getting the distinct impression that you are a professional who does a lot of brushing. What dictates that? where is it acceptable? where is it not? I assume brushing larger flat surfaces like say, shelving and benches is less acceptable than say, brushing window casing or baseboard? Are there jobs you can't brush? how do you manage client expectations when it comes to brushed trim, whereas a lot of new home construction is sprayed?
Great questions! I'll do my best to hit on each question you asked. Here's a video where I touch on different finish types: ruclips.net/video/-sVm8ltOKe4/видео.html
Airless is still pretty much the way to go if you're going to spray. The HVLPs don't have enough juice to push through a lot of different products and most guys aren't hauling around a Kremlin sprayer with the necessary compressor.
In general, painters tend to specialize and end up doing certain kinds of work. There are crews that mostly spray, and then there are crews that do mostly brush and roller work. New construction gets sprayed because those houses are empty and they have the run of the place. Often the flooring and other elements are not installed when those homes get painted. In my experience, builder's grade paint jobs tend to be hot garbage unless you've had a really nice custom home builder do it.
Once you get into homes where the owners are moved in and living there then the work starts to look a bit different. Big exteriors often get sprayed as that's generally the best way to do that work. Guys that refinish cabinets also spray. Usually with an airless and a fine finish tip. Another common workflow for crews is to spray the trim and doors first then brush and roll the ceiling and walls. Keep in mind that the prep out is quite extensive when using a sprayer, and if you mess up it can be a big problem. Overspray is no bueno.
My crew is a fine finish crew and we don't do a lot of spray work. We use to, and still will use a sprayer from time to time, but we prefer to use brush and rollers. Most of the work we do is high-end residential, so we're dealing with fully furnished homes. As it is with most things, painters can produce an exceptional level of finish using brush and roller and they can produce an absolute crap finish using a brush and roller. The same is true of crews that spray. It comes down to what skills you've developed, what products you use, and the type of work that you do.
On a related side note, I'll be launching a podcast on this channel in January where I'll be able to answer questions like yours in more depth. Thanks again for watching and for the questions!
Ugh. I have brush strokes on my second coat. If I sand it, what’s the best sandpaper to use? 320? I’m about to pull my hair out with this piece of furniture. Any help would be so appreciated. Thank you so much.
You’ll have to use a lower grit than 320. I’d try 150 or 220. Keep in mind that if you’re brushing on the product then you will have brush strokes. You just want them to be minimal and aesthetically pleasing. This video may be helpful as well. I paint a wood stool using emerald urethane. Good luck with your piece of furniture and try not to beat yourself up too bad! How To Paint Wood Furniture Without a Sprayer
ruclips.net/video/w3QtnLCdVys/видео.html
@@SuperVassarBrothers thank you so much! Im new to painting and I’m working with an extremely stubborn piece! I used Krud kutter and cleaned it many times. I am new to this, and I am now learning. I should not have used a light pink on a piece that continues to have a brown rag. With that said, I did two coats of shellac on the piece and when I went to paint it in the light pink, tannins still came through the paint. I then applied two more coats of shellac to the areas that were discolored and repainted over those. My piece looked great. Until I went to apply polycrylic. Then, tannins came through in other areas. 😭
So I went to apply two more coats of shellac and my last coat has a ton of brush strokes. Needless to say, I’m about to chunk this piece in a fire pit. Not really, but kind of feel that way.
Could you show or tell how much paint should you have on the brush and how long should the strokes be.
That is an excellent question. I haven’t thought about that, but that’s a good one to answer. Keep an eye out for that video 🫡
Any suggestions how to touch up texture(orange peal) repair on the ceiling. Trying to avoid visible patches. This is a brand new construction. Thank you.
Touching up orange peel texture on a ceiling involves a few specific steps to ensure that the repaired area blends seamlessly with the existing texture. Here’s a step-by-step guide:
### Materials Needed:
- Drywall compound or texture spray (a can of spray texture designed to match orange peel)
- Drywall knife or putty knife
- Fine-grit sandpaper (e.g., 220 grit)
- Primer (if needed)
- Paint that matches your ceiling color
- Drop cloths and masking tape for protection
### Steps:
1. **Prep the Area**:
- Protect the surrounding area with drop cloths and use masking tape to cover edges and areas you don’t want to texture.
- If the area has been patched or repaired, make sure it’s dry and smooth. Sand it lightly with fine-grit sandpaper to blend the edges with the surrounding texture.
2. **Apply the Texture**:
- **Using a Spray Can**: If you’re using a texture spray can, shake it well and hold it about 18-24 inches from the ceiling. Practice spraying on a piece of cardboard first to get the hang of the spray pattern and distance.
- Apply the spray in light, even coats. It’s better to build up the texture gradually rather than applying too much at once.
- **Using a Roller**: If you're applying by hand, thin the drywall compound to the consistency of pancake batter. Use a roller with a thick nap to apply the compound in a thin, even layer, creating the desired texture. Roll in one direction and then back over it to ensure even coverage.
3. **Blend with Existing Texture**:
- After applying the texture, allow it to set for a few minutes. If needed, gently tap or dab the wet texture with a drywall knife or brush to help it blend with the surrounding area.
4. **Drying**:
- Let the texture dry completely. This could take several hours, depending on the product and the thickness of the application.
5. **Sand and Touch Up**:
- Once the texture is dry, lightly sand the area with fine-grit sandpaper to smooth out any rough spots and ensure it matches the existing texture. Be gentle to avoid flattening the texture too much.
6. **Prime and Paint**:
- If the area was sanded significantly or if it’s a large repair, apply a coat of primer to the textured area. This helps the paint adhere evenly.
- Finally, paint the touched-up area with ceiling paint that matches the existing color. Feather the paint out slightly beyond the touched-up area to blend it with the surrounding surface.
By following these steps, you should be able to successfully touch up the orange peel texture on your ceiling and achieve a consistent, professional-looking finish.
@@SuperVassarBrothers Thank you. I had texture fixed by my sub but the painters did the touched on there repair but offer my inspection texture repair was not acceptable. So I had an another report done by a seasoned professional and it was done right. But I don’t want to bring in a painter for another ring of touch up(trying to avoid additional cost since I am way over). So I am trying to do this on my own since it’s only 5-7 spots of repair and I have all the primer and paint. Paint is only a week or so old.
Help!! What color do I choose for Benjamin Moore?!? There are 193863 whites!
Super White OC-152 is a solid option that’s pretty much a stock white.
A video breaking down the corona brush line would be great
Already filmed it my friend. That should be out during the second half of November 🤙
I've seen people around the interwebs saying that if you use Advance in a white, it can end up yellowing over time. Is that accurate? I'm using Super White to match some pure white poly shutters that I (probably?) can't paint, and yellowing would cause the already-not-perfectly-matched color to be even more off.
Also - do you still like Command as a trim paint? On a previous comment you had mentioned how much you like it. These are the two paints on my list to redo my trim, but I haven't committed to either yet.
Always love the information in your videos, you're a great educator.
You mentioned shutters in the first part of your comment. Be aware that Advance is not an exterior paint so if you’re painting exterior trim then I’d go with Moorglo Soft Gloss from Benjamin Moore.
Advance can yellow over time although I haven’t experienced for myself. The majority of the trim work we do, we use Emerald Urethane Trim enamel and I’m quite happy with it.
Command is good as a specialty product for certain applications. I wouldn’t use it to redo your trim.
My top picks for painting trim would be
1) Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel
2) Moorglo Soft-Gloss for exterior trim
3) regular Emerald Semi-gloss (it’s an acrylic and super easy to work with. This is a great option if you are newer to painting or think that the Emerald Urethane is overkill)
@@SuperVassarBrothers Interior plantation shutters, made from a poly material instead of wood so I don't think I can paint them. I believe it also voids the warranty.
I will keep that other paint in mind for exterior though!
Any tips on keeping a toddler away from trim with a long open time? 😅
Thanks again for all the info, it's really helpful for us noobs. Looking forward to the next vid!
Technique! I neeeed technique!😱lol
I have a hard time figuring out how to “merge” sections together😕
Good stuff though, love the content👍🏻
I’ve got a bunch of other videos about how to paint trim. Those might be useful for you.
Fewer brush strokes. Sorry. I cannot help myself.
To each his own I suppose 🫡
Thanks Stannis