Thanks to you i now own a skeggøx=bearded axe i made it exactly the same way you did but with a normal sized axe handle. And i use it all the time to chop wood for charcoal making and soon firewood to keep me and my wife warm in the winter.
This is the best re shaping I have seen and making your own handle is the only way to go. Found myself watching this as I am looking for shaping ideas, the 4.5lb Elwell I bought is in much worse condition than the pictures showed, very creative photography. I have a half inch stress fracture at the top of the eye but there is a lot of axe to play with so reshaping can take that out. Your axe is something any Odin fearing Viking would love to have in their hands.
I just finished the head part of a axe mod like this. I can tell you that it's a lot harder with only a drill, some hand files and a dremel clone at hand. Also working in an apartment.
Respect. I once tried to use a table saw in my first apartment. I thought an ordinary domestic vacuum cleaner would work for dust collection. It didn't.
Why reshape a hults bruk? Aren't they the most valuable and sought after when in factory condition? Seems like a true temper might have been a better candidate?
Maybe you're thinking of Gränsfors Bruk? Those can be quite valuable, but I've seen other used Hults Bruk hatchet heads like this one go for $10 or less.
@@vincenthelt1390 back home in Sweden or even here in Norway, with that condition and age they go for around $5-15. Prob got 5 of thoes heads myself. Great steel and head geometry. Just a tad bit heavy for a hatchet so cutting some non harden steel is good.
Als a small grinding wheel in a drill press works great to get the radius is formed... lol as I was posting this comment you sudd nay started using a grinding wheel in a drill press! Lol,lol,lol too funny!
I kept a light touch when grinding near the edge, and backed off when I felt it getting too warm. The discolouration was mostly on material that was being removed.
Nice work! Inspires me to do the same! How much material did you have left at the smallest point beneath the handle? A bit scared this could be a breaking point :D Thanks!
I was most concerned about weakness at the eye, so the bottom and top sharp points retained the original head's full height. From the butt end, I'd estimate that the bottom cutaway was 3/4" at its highest point. The top butt and cheek cutaways weren't significant, as you can see by comparing the 04:20 and 04:31; a quarter inch or less. I'd say the bottom cheek cutaway was just over an inch at its highest point, as you can see at 01:09.
Handle making is from 4:37 to 8:32; I didn't have footage for all of it. The "P" is a middle name initial. At 9:02, the axe is just balanced on the tree; butt against the trunk and the heel on the branch.
Close; it's ash. I usually use hickory for axe handles, but since this was a Norse replica I decided to go with something they'd conceivably have used.
That's not a collectors axe head. It was mass-produced and there are loads of them. And ugly is subjective. I quite like the new look the head got. Will serve nice as a hatchet manny years to come.
Very cool! and an epic build!! I will try sometime also :D
Thanks to you i now own a skeggøx=bearded axe i made it exactly the same way you did but with a normal sized axe handle. And i use it all the time to chop wood for charcoal making and soon firewood to keep me and my wife warm in the winter.
Indeed, in addition to regular chopping, I find the beard cutaway helps one do finer cuts when shaping with an axe.
This is the best re shaping I have seen and making your own handle is the only way to go. Found myself watching this as I am looking for shaping ideas, the 4.5lb Elwell I bought is in much worse condition than the pictures showed, very creative photography. I have a half inch stress fracture at the top of the eye but there is a lot of axe to play with so reshaping can take that out. Your axe is something any Odin fearing Viking would love to have in their hands.
Nice work. I have been playing around with this and had heaps of fun. Nice axe!
Excellent job. Beautiful axe.
I love it! I just dont know if I can... handle it!
Awsome work!!
Lots of reshaping axe head videos but none of them has you on making a handle even the wood species is spot on love the video and the axe
Very mercilessly. Nice. Use a grinder with either a flappper wheel or a stone it will speed up the fine work on wood try it out. You will be amazed!!
This was awesome!
Very nice job... I plan to do something like this, but I worry about heat treatment, because of the temperature during grinding
I tried to minimize this by backing off when I felt it getting too warm under my fingers and letting it cool down.
Great job! That's a collectable piece.
I just finished the head part of a axe mod like this. I can tell you that it's a lot harder with only a drill, some hand files and a dremel clone at hand. Also working in an apartment.
Respect. I once tried to use a table saw in my first apartment. I thought an ordinary domestic vacuum cleaner would work for dust collection. It didn't.
@@Arctosish Just a little bit of extra clean up.
nice job!
Do you know where in Oppland this axe was found?
I'm from Oppland my self👍🏻😀
The British Museum says it was found in the Skjåk/Tråstadhaugen area. Here's the link: www.britishmuseum.org/collection/object/H_1891-1021-34
Fine work .
The rune is Beork "B". The rune Perthro is "P". The you used is Beork. The axe makeover, however, is quite nice...great work.
Thank you. I was using medieval runes rather than the furthark, and by that time they were often using a dotted 'B' to indicate 'P'.
Good tutorial well explained without talking just straight into it! Nice 1
Nice, not much instructions but yeah, one more subscribeer :)
9:03 Me when i saw this-How did you...aha there is a branch :'D
Great video! :]
Great comment!
Superbe boulot ! Bravo
Merci
Very nice.
Why reshape a hults bruk? Aren't they the most valuable and sought after when in factory condition? Seems like a true temper might have been a better candidate?
Maybe you're thinking of Gränsfors Bruk? Those can be quite valuable, but I've seen other used Hults Bruk hatchet heads like this one go for $10 or less.
@@Arctosish you are right. Damn nice work sir!
@@Arctosish Please enlighten me with the next $10 Hults Bruk comes along, I'll take 10 immediately.
@@vincenthelt1390 exactly what I thought lol
@@vincenthelt1390 back home in Sweden or even here in Norway, with that condition and age they go for around $5-15. Prob got 5 of thoes heads myself. Great steel and head geometry. Just a tad bit heavy for a hatchet so cutting some non harden steel is good.
So nice 🌱
Als a small grinding wheel in a drill press works great to get the radius is formed... lol as I was posting this comment you sudd nay started using a grinding wheel in a drill press! Lol,lol,lol too funny!
Great minds...
@@Arctosish yep! Lol
めっちゃGoodです=3
秀樹感激です=3
Wow! Nice work.
Your heat treatment is done dude.
Or i missed it where you prevented the heat from getting to your edge.
I didn't remove any material at the edge. The closest I got was around 2:42.
@@Arctosish cool i was worried. Looks great. I just saw all that blueing.
Damn fine workjust takes a brain and your hands.ive got to get back in to my metal work
Did all the grinding remove the heat treat?
I kept a light touch when grinding near the edge, and backed off when I felt it getting too warm. The discolouration was mostly on material that was being removed.
Nice work! Inspires me to do the same!
How much material did you have left at the smallest point beneath the handle?
A bit scared this could be a breaking point :D
Thanks!
I was most concerned about weakness at the eye, so the bottom and top sharp points retained the original head's full height. From the butt end, I'd estimate that the bottom cutaway was 3/4" at its highest point. The top butt and cheek cutaways weren't significant, as you can see by comparing the 04:20 and 04:31; a quarter inch or less. I'd say the bottom cheek cutaway was just over an inch at its highest point, as you can see at 01:09.
Why did you cut out the handle making part? What's the p means? How did you hung the axe from the tree?
Handle making is from 4:37 to 8:32; I didn't have footage for all of it. The "P" is a middle name initial. At 9:02, the axe is just balanced on the tree; butt against the trunk and the heel on the branch.
Great Project but PLEASE NEVER WEAR GLOVES WHEN USING ROTATING MACHINES!
Thank you.
Yeah, well, that prime swedish heat treat is gone after all that grinding...or did you remember to COOL it
Nice job!
What wood did you use for the handle? It looks like Oak but, I'm probably wrong!
Close; it's ash. I usually use hickory for axe handles, but since this was a Norse replica I decided to go with something they'd conceivably have used.
I really like that axe head. It needs more handle like a boys axe
Could you share your axe template please
I just used the image of the Oppland artifact shown at ruclips.net/video/ze2PGbBpBiE/видео.html and made the curves with the lid from a wide jar.
👏👍👍
The gaps around the axe head and handle are not good, not what you want.
Flap wheel < tiger paw
That rune is berkana "B"
I was going for medieval runes. After the younger futhark, they started using a dotted "B" rune for the 'p' sound.
A lot of stress from grinding, hope it's hardness still credible
I doubt he will use it bro. It's for looks 🙄
Why ruin a perfectly good axe to do this . ! ! ! .
I'd say it's still perfectly good, and at the very least, it's now got a nice ash handle.
Such
Sorry, but it's ugly.....
I'll be sure to pass that along to the 8th century Oppland blacksmith who made the original.
Why Did You Decide To Use A "COLLECTORS" Axe To Make This Ugly Crap !! They Make Junk Axes To Do This Kind Of "MESS".
"THANK YOU" for your "SCINTILLATING" and informative "CONTRIBUTION."
That's not a collectors axe head. It was mass-produced and there are loads of them.
And ugly is subjective. I quite like the new look the head got. Will serve nice as a hatchet manny years to come.
Wow! Nice work.