The Easiest Way to Replace Brake Lines on a 99-07 Silverado/ Seirra
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
- I have done approximately 20 sets of brakes lines on this generation of trucks. I show all of the tricks I have learned that help save time and so you end up with a quality job. This process is also the same for a Yukon, Tahoe, or Suburban.
For bussiness inquires please contact me at WRENCHNYT@gmail.com
![Megan Thee Stallion - Neva Play (feat. RM) [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/TpYTyAaTRts/mqdefault.jpg)
This video really gave me an idea of what to expect when I replaced my lines. My truck was a lot like yours, including compressor fittings and old lines left in by the previous owner.
I ended up going with the Dorman stainless steel lines, which fit perfect and did include all the rear lines that are missing from the GM kit. Hopefully, I won’t have to do this job again.
Brilliant tutorial. My husband watched this twice, and said you saved him so many steps, and a lot of grief. This is an essential video to watch when taking on a project like this. Thank you so much for all your help!
ALL of "tutorials" here aren't as nice as your "get to the point" Video ... VERY VERY INFORMATIVE !! ...
Also: I LOVE the "MAP" of the lines placement / position !.
Thanks, I appreciate that!
My son's a homeschooled senior rebuilding a 2000 chevy extreme. He just got a new brake line kit and we're watching this before we start to have a better idea what to do what to expect etc. Thanks for your time.
Thank you for the tips! This will save me some pain and suffering. I hate doing mechanic work at work because I ain’t one but folks like you are the reason I can have any sort of success!
I just want to give everyone a heads up. It is VERY IMPORTANT THAT YOU DO NOT CROSS THREAD THE LINES INTO ABS BOX. you must be very careful when screwing the lines in. And also what helps is to clean the threads out before you screw in the new shit. Take the old flare nut spray it with pb blaster and screw it in and out multiple times until it's easy to screw in with the finger tips. This will ensure your threads are clean and will have no resistance. No one ever shows that part. That is the absolute hardest part of the job.
Great tip. I would do that on every connection. They need to go in wet. Less chance of leaking.
Didn’t show how to tighten the line in the abs block. It’s under the cab not the bed
@ WRENCH'N
Dorman makes a good complete Hardline stainless steel brake line kit and they work very good and fit exactly right
I bought the set yesterday for my Tahoe based on your comment and I'm about 2/3 of the way thru getting them back on. Has been nearly perfect so far. I would definitely use the Dorman stainless set again.
I’ve used the dorman set on the few of these that I’ve done, they resist rust very well and do fit pretty good.
Excellent video. I was hoping to find a quick video from someone who has experience with this job, and this was perfect. Thank you
I learned so much from this video. Thank you so much. I've been turning wrenches on an amateur level for many decades and never thought of some of the things that you do like draining the system so you don't have brake fluid all over the place.
This video saved me so much time. The layout of the lines on the pump and frame helped me a lot. Same with the lifting the bed trick, i was about to try and fish it around the fuel tank. However i did buy aftermarket lines because i didn’t want them to rust out again. They didn’t fit perfect, but the lengths were right i just had to tweak some bends a little.
Would've been helpful to know which brand of aftermarket lines you purchased.
@@alafrosty I don’t remember exactly it was a while ago, but i’m fairly certain they were Dorman 919-128 (2005, ext cab, long bed, 4wd)
@@infl Thanks. I was trying to avoid Dorman. I apparently ended up finding the last AGS NiCopp set in North America. Hopefully it's not damaged.
This sheds a lot of light on this project. My truck blew a break line at my parents house 2 hours away. I normally to all my own repairs as I’m a heavy diesel mechanic. I have a brake line kit and all the hoses - my calipers are good as I service them and bleeders once a year (hence the mechanic in me). I had a shop quote me 1600 -2000 bucks just in labor and two days to do this job. I was like how about you just fix the line broke so I get drive it home to my shop so I can fix it myself. I was promptly told they would only replace them all. I was like Ummm no. I can’t believe some places still think they can get one over people with RUclips. And before anyone jumps down my throat about the liability blah blah blah. Yeah they told me this without looking at it - first mistake, and second they can recommend and if I decline it’s on me not them.
I had the exact same thing happen two weeks ago, shop gave me a 1200 quote even with me having the pre bent lines. I'm torn between selling or doing the repair little by little
Well done! I have an 05 tahoe, and it's seems a little more difficult bc I have a body in the way,lol. But the whole video is VERY informative. Thank you!
This job is a nightmare for those of us who have never done it. I'm starting day two on mine. It's going, but it's a pain. This video is very helpful. Thank you, sir!
...oh yeah. I had to plumb all new lines myself because no one around here sells pre bent. I had to buy a 25ft roll and reuse my old flare nuts and i had to double flare 8 ends of line total. Then I was 6 inches short on the last piece of line I had to use, so i went to adavance auto to get a single straight line and their flare nuts were not the right size so I had to go to the junkyard and get extra flare nuts to make it all work. Yesterday was fun. Took me all of 10hrs.
Thank you for recording and posting this valuable educational video.
I’m so glad I watched this video before I replaced my brake line that goes from the ABS sensor to the rear, lifting my bed and taking the bolt out from the front of the bed, and also cutting the line to use a socket was key to a successful job thanks for the tips, also the fitting in the rear is 1/4” and the one in front on the abs sensor is 5/16” use the same size wrench is nice to know also.
Your welcome. I'm glad my video helped.
I just did all my lines on my 04 1500 SLE extended cab 2WD. The RF was the most difficult and you also a skid plate that needs to be removed with 2WDs. You also need to bend the line a bit to get it out and the new one to get in. The LF comes out by pulling it straight back until the last bend and then turn it 90 degrees when the last bend hits the LF cab mount. Both MC lines come out going straight back. The rear was super easy since I had the rear bumper and hitch off. Just jack the left side of the bed as he says and the rear line will pull straight out the back.
I'm going through this now. So you motivated me to maybe try. I'm sure going to save. Thanks for teaching
Nicely done. I just did all mine on a 03' Escalade EXT. I cut that old nasty shit off and ran copper lines that I had to bend and flare where I wanted to run them. I did not unbolt the body off the frame either. Just ran them off the side of the frames and secured them so they won't move. It's absurd how horrible the original crap rusts the way they do.
Yeah it is crazy the way they rust. The fuel, trans, and powersterring lines rust too.
You should not use copper. Only steel or stainless.
@@kencress1267 I'm sure he's talking about NiCopp which is the best thing on the market these days for brake lines. They bend easily, don't corrode, and are more than strong enough to withstand braking pressure.
How much do you charge for a brake lines replacement
Brake lines from the dealer will be the same garbage metal as the originals. Use the stainless steel.
In the process of replacing all the rusted lines on a 2000 chevy 1500 2 seater. I found quite a few compression fittings on the old lines. My point is that in MN people have a lot of issues of rusted out brake lines. If your in Minnesota prepare for rust on your Vehicle.
Thanks so much for this video, the dealer hear in South San Francisco wants 3k plus parts. I’m not going to pay them that kinda money. Much appreciated brother👊
Actually, I remove the factory lines and hand bend the new line to match, but I worked in industry for several decades where there is no such thing as a premade line for the equipment so you measure and bend. You may laugh, but I was the electronics/electrical tech at the small factory but did the precision tube bending, as if you bend conduit on a regular basis tubing is a piece of cake. If the line has been cobbled prior I simply measure carefully and then go to it. Some of the equipment that I have worked on since retirement you would have basically a snowballs chance in Hell of procuring a factory line set. Yes, it takes time but really not that much longer than a factory set install. If you have the skills, tools and the math background it is not that hard, the advantage is when you get to one without factory assistance it is nothing new to do.
I've noticed they bust where the lines are held in the plastic holders.
Last chevy I'll buy. To use mild steel, no anti rust coating instead of stainless, wow, terrible engineering.
@@nadiaaisha2632 aftermarket kits are stainless and about $100 from Advance Auto.
Nadia Aisha they now use coated lines
Who needs brakes.
Exactly! That's what trees and bumpers are for!
They just slow you down!
I myself would just go out and buy a trailer with electric brakes. And then just hook it up to my bumper hitch.
Well screw that. Looks like the truck will sit 😂 time to get a new daily.
All gas no brake
Thank you very much for the time and effort to make this excellent video.
God bless you my friend.
Gracias 😊 🙏🏽
Your welcome!
Great video, I appreciate the details for line of order. I little different on the crew cab Duramax. The line holders are straight across rather then two lines on the bottom in the holders
I wish my 01 was that clean underneath I’m in Michigan and these years of truck are really bad with rust
I have had two shops tell me they have to drop the transmission to change the brake lines. Are they just trying to overcharge me by making up extra steps?
There are no brake lines above the transmission in this truck. They are trying to rip you off.
@@kenshinhimura9387 the fuel lines maybe but not brake lines
I got an estimate of $1500-$3000. Looks like I'll be doing it myself.
The trick at loosening a brake bleeder is to try an tighten it a little bit then try loosening it back n forth. Just going full force you stand a good chance of it breaking it off.
Gonna be doing this on my 03 rclb tomorrow after work. Thanks for the video! Got the same kit off rock auto
Its easier for me and much cheaper to make my own lines but good video. I just needed to know the placement of the lines in the abs pump so I appreciate ya
right to the point and very easy to absorb. However, I've done a ton of high pressure/ high temp piping and have never had a problem with flare fittings. If ur in a pinch a flare nut can soften the squeeze.
He said compression fittings were a no-no on brake systems. Which they are... Unless you don't mind suddenly losing break fluid pressure.
@@matthewkelleher1647 If you install a compression fitting correctly it will NEVER leak. Over 40 years using them and never had an issue.
@@freddyg9026 Thats a big IF and they are illegal to use in many states for a reason. In a panic stop, pressures could reach over 2,000 PSI and it's a risk I would never take especially on any of my customers cars. I have replaced 1,000s of feet of brake line over 2 decades and never used a compression fitting once. There is no manufacturer that uses compression fittings on brake lines and none ever have to the best of my knowledge. It's not about the leaking but letting go under panic stop pressures. It's a risk clearly no manufacturer is willing to take either.
@@marcsmith3881 , Compression fittings are bad but.... I call BS on any state law regarding hardware usage on vehicle repair. Give me a cite on that.
@@thericefarmer It may not be illegal from a state law perspective, but it will absolutely fail the safety part of the inspection in NY and PA. May not be good? There is no manufacturer you can find from the factory with a compression fitting on a brake line.
The bed can be removed very easily. 8 bed bolts, 3 fuel filler neck screws & 2 wire harness plugs is all it takes. 2 men can lift it off. Literally, in 15 minutes you can remove it. Just plan ahead. Much easier.
There is enough room to do this way.
classic tube is great aftermarket place. great fit, and stainless
I have not used them on these trucks but I have used them on other vehicles.
$400 classic tube vs $90 for ACDelco....
I just used classic tube from ebay. Price was 86 dollars for complete kit in stainless steel. Sure won't get that price from ac Delco lol
What size fittings go into the abs pump? I’m having a hard time removing them
Hell of a video. I'm getting ready to replace mine this weekend. I purchased copper nickel lines though.
Super helpful, great tutorial! And if you put a thumbs down, I think it would be beneficial to explain why for us viewers.
Thank you brother! Question did you have to replace the plastic retainers that the lines snap in? Or were you able to purchase them.
I got the Dorman kit for my truck but it’s was definitely not easy going in but got it done but on the last line for some reason the secondary booster line is leaking at the ABS module at the flare nut don’t know why it’s straight and fully seated but leaks
Any special tips on bleeding this system with the center abs block?
I bled mine as you normally would
@@Colts88 10-4, i had a replace all my lines on my 2007 silverado. Thanks for your video, lots of good tips! I ended up bleeding normally as well and it went fine. I read some things on forums about needing to vacuum bleed, etc etc but the pump method worked fine for me.
Bleed the brakes....here is where the real hard part begins since the abs pump either requires a scan tool or another special GM tool to get it done..
Would it had been better to have ordered stainless steel brake lines for longevity.
great video! And how did you bleed the abs pump? All the lines where off it so it seems like you would have to. Thanks
bleeding the tires bleeds the abs
No need for special abs bleeding. Just bleed at the calipers.
Nice work. Where did you order the lines from
Hey man could you give me the link for those brake lines? I wanna get the same set as you for my 2005 Chevy Silverado 1500
Thank you! What a PITA! I may never buy another Chevy.
What kit do I need for a 2002 Chevy Silverado 1500 4x4?
When you run driver side front, do you connect to abs, or move it aside a little until front passenger side is done? It just makes wrenching on abs a little easier. Look forward to reply
2003 Chev Avalanche I undid All body mounts and lifted the Drivers side 6 inches... for HOURS I tried everything to bleed Brake system after replacing GM Kit All 7 factory steel lines, Truck was Running on 4 Jack stands all tires removed would NOT BLEED.... Then this worked Turn Key ON and DISCONNECT BATTERY leave sit for an Hour Then Pump and Bleed Brakes with Truck NOT Running and Battery Disconnected Tons more Air came out...
Holy chit, I'm attempting this in a yukon xl on the dirt on cardboard . Ton of help, (but I already received the stainless line kit from "CHY_NUH" 🤦🏻♂️
how is it doing it on the gorund?
@@TheCastedone not the worst thing I've tackled, honestly I just did the oil pan gasket (it's 4x4 too) and I'd rather do the both front brake lines two more times than ever doing that on the ground again.
@@TheCastedone oh. If it's the pickup you have to lift bed just up front , if its the suburban layout you have to lift right side of body JUST enough to where it don't pull free from the steering arm shaft connection once bolt and nut is removed otherwise GOOD FKN LUCK
@@TheCastedone (which equates to approximately 3.5" -4")
@@TheCastedone also: I ordered the stainless Through kegs it literally took close to a month to get here, they must be made to order in Chinuh!
I still don't know how you would get access to the lines on the abs pump, everything is so tight I can't get any kind of wrench on the fittings.
Whats the long brake line that crosses from the driver side through the front into the passenger side
If you've done 20 of these, how long does it take for a person that's never done it before, and how long does it take for you?
That is going to vary. Do you have a lift or are you doing it off jack stands? It would probably take the average person a couple of days.
@@wrenchn9635 me and my old man did all of mine in 2 8hr days off jack stands. It was a pain
It takes around a 12 pack of bud light
@@sheeznutz2254 I paid a shop that specialized in Hondas to do it. They had no idea how much work it entailed and quoted me a very low price to do it. Final price was very slightly higher, but still only about 1/4 of what it should have cost. Got lucky with that one.
What if you don't hook the lines going to the abs in the right spots ?
Man I have a 2006 Silverado 2500hd and my brake line is leaking smh I’m scared to do this 🤣 I think I’m going to send it to the dealership
I have a 2006 Silverado 1500 extended cab. My ABS modular has 3 ports on top and 2 primary on the bottom.
What is the correct port connection on the master cylinder up front do the two lower port on the ABS module go to.??
Ty ty ty. I was going to tare half the g d front end apart to get the front left line on. I o u big time.
Your welcome
I have to do this on my 04 silverado ss and the line going into abs from proportioning valve have a braided section can i do it with normal and not have braided?
What would you charge to do the two front lines and one master cylinder line?
MR in you diagram mean the port on the master brake cylinder closest to the firewall? MF means the closest port on the master brake cylinder closest to the front bumper Right?
Great video and helped me for my install on my 2000 GMC Sierra 1500 4w drive. I did mix up my two bottom lines that go to the master cylinder. I like your drawing with the line designation but my question is does the drawing mean left and front of the master cylinder or does it mean left and right brake supply which the rear bowl is for the front brakes and front bowl is for the rear brakes? Thank you George
Why would no one answer this question?
Hello, great video. I have a question about the ABS unit, does it need to be scanned in order to work properly? Or did you just bleed the brakes a couple more times and it fixes itself?
Start with master cylinder gravity bleed all lines let lines on abs bleed also then bleed system I have had no problems with abs after doing it I use a vacuum bleeder to make bleeding faster .14 mm crow foot line wrench helps working around abs lines
Soooo what all happened during the part where you cut away and put the line on?
I slid the line in place.
Great video, I am starting this job on my 2004 Silverado, your tips will save me a lot of time. One question, do you recommend changing any of the flexible lines while doing this job? Mine look good but I can't see what is under the rubber sheeting.
Your video made my day, thx
I have an 06 sierra rear drums i am doing ebcm. Can you verify line routing connections at abs pump
are the 98 Chevy Silverado brake lines the same ? as in are they the same diagram wise where are they located at the front on a 98 my Chevy is leaking at the front
Very professional job.
Haha at first I was wondering y your taking the line some one replace then I see compression fiting haha hay I've used them few times to get me out of monster head ack line on newer chevy cobalt and her wher the break line run into weard lines I forget what it was but I try to do them right way but newe 2000 chevy cars are plumbed in a funny was used them on fuel lines to same scenario and go back few years latter and their still good have rust on them
Do you know what line goes to the top center port on the abs pump
Where you located at? And how much do u charge to do something like this? I have a 04 Chevy Silverado 1500 standard cab.
I'm located in VA.
@@wrenchn9635 do you travel?... lol
Nice tutorial thanks, In my 2006 Tahoe 2wd master cylinder lines don't go straight to master cylinder, they go to adapter bellow the MS, can you explain which lines go which side of that adapter? Thanks
It sounds like you have a tahoe with active brake control. I have only done one of those. I have a video I need to edit on that. I don't know how the lines go off the top of my head.
The disk brakes system go to a proportioning valve mounted below the master. It should be the same. The front port (vehicle front) of the proportioning valve is the rear brake circuit. The rear port of the valve is the front brake circuit.
The jerry rig fix, like really buddy you don't keep a pack of zip ties handy??
Does that truck have a proportion valve?
Compression fittings are fine.
I think it depends on the type. My brother was a pipe fitter and he said the ones he got from supplier were used to do thousands of psi for nasty chemicals.. I think the ones from a plumbing store are not safe. Just my understanding..
@@bigdago780 five bucks for a pack of two brass compression fittings. Been using on my work trucks for years. None have failed me yet. I test em by cramming the brakes (hard) several times before road use.
hi, i am disabled and the right front side break leaking , have the kit can you help me fix my truck ????
Have you tried fishing the rear line from the rear forward past the shocks
@Sapo 4774 don't know how you done it i tape the fitting end with tape start feeding in past the shock up along side the upper frame rail following the route of the old line helps to have two people one to hold the tail and one to guide the front the back guy can turn pipe when needed i haven't remove anything and I'm on my fourth line repair and yes i live in michigan
Do you recall the size of line wrench to install the lines at the module? Also do you need a scan tool to properly bleed the system?
9/16" or 14mm, and yes.
I inherited my parents 2001 z71 only 140k miles with regular maintenance from dealer its whole life. Its a POS, spent thousands to keep it going. Rear sus rusted off poked a hole through the bed nearly all rear sus had to be replaced, rear axle housing rusted through oil leaked out bearing went rear end had be replaced, f/r ujoints, complete rear brakes had to be replaced, front wheel bearings, fuel pump, exhaust rusted off replaced, rear doors leak, body rusts faster than paint drys, interior is getting lose and squeaky even though its like new, front wheel wells are nearly gone rusted out and now the brake lines went plus so much more. 99 and after are junk rust buckets except the motors and trans are pretty good the rest of the truck is junk. I've had the truck 3 years now never made it more than a month or two and something has to be fixed. Many friends and family members have newer Silverados they're also already starting to rust. Plus the CEO of GM is a woke POS that likes to get sniffed by Biden so I'll probably never buy another GM vehicle till things change. Also Biden has GIVEN GM BILLIONS to make an EV and get there shit together to hurt Tesla and they couldn't do it. Now Elon may be buying the factories GM us about to close.
You stated right front line at 3:20 when actually it would be the left frontline as seen sitting behind the steering wheel. The passenger side front line would be the right front line as seen sitting behind the steering wheel. This is the automotive known locations. It is what it is.
Where did you purchased that brake line set?
Needing to replace a line from abs pump to rear axle... what size line am I needing?
IMO, go with the dorman prebent stainless steel line. perfect fit, inexpensive and wont rust out
ABS module to rear differential on a 02 Suburban. Doesnt have a bed to unbolt. Drop the gas tank?
I've got the same issue on a 06 Suburban. Did you figure out a way to get the rear brake lines out of the ABS module?
@@way2manyhobbies yeah nobody shows you how to get the lines disconnected from the abs module. they talk about it and then show it already done. even with the lines cut the torquing on the block rotates it in is mounting bracket. there just is now easy way to do it.
@@sroysr I manage to get the to top lines off by cutting the line and then putting a socket on the fitting but now I'm trying to figure out how I'm gonna put the new lines in since there will be lines attached to the fittings.
I figured out how to get the new lines in. ruclips.net/video/w5Q6SXyLynk/видео.html
No, I just put start the line at the rear wheel and fish it up through to the front.
hi is the EBCM under truck bed?? someone said be careful not too damage it when lifting bed?
It is under the truck cab,
Seems like it would help to take off the bed, and put a new fuel pump while your at it?
sure would and do the cab corners, wire brush the frame and maybe paint it, but if you don't have the time, help or space this will do for just the brake lines.
whats a job like this cost in a shop
@WRENCH'N im having trouble with the square bracket that holds the 4 front lines. how do you get it open?
It unsnap from the inside top and unfolds or opens outward towards the outside of frame rail.
Super helpful vid thx
Great Video!!!!!
Man I redid a busted line in the middle to the pump and nothing will fit into the pump side.. not the cylinder side. Idk why do they make an adapter that goes into the pump. Nothing will fit
03 silverado 4wd 1/4 line size
so how many hrs do you charge for this?
Great video, thanks.
Why is using a compression fitting a big no-no? I was considering using one on a busted line I have only until I can buy all the parts/tools and get the knowledge I need to do a full line replacement. I was planning on it being on there no longer than 60 days
Using compressing fittings is a big no no because of vibrations. Compression fittings do not stand up to vibrations and will leak or may get air in the line. The proper way to join your lines together is to use a union fitting for brakes. They have the seat in them just like any other seat where your brake line would connect. It would be sealed and never leak then.
Just to add something. A friend of mine had her plumbing in the house all done with compression fittings. While visiting one day. We heard something downstairs then heard what sounded like water dripping. We looked and yep. The compression fitting burst. It was a good thing I was there I guess. I redid all her plumbing the proper way by soldering her copper pipes. Brake lines are under a lot of pressure when you apply your brakes compared to that water pressure in a house. Remember what I said about the fitting bursting. That can very well happen on your vehicle now.
@@rodgerroy8090 thank you for the info. I did end up going with the compression fittings (was not aware of unions) but what I did was I actually used 24hour JB Weld around the fitting itself. I've driven 2,000 miles since and have not had so much as a drop of fluid lost
@@TheMistaneff And you will never have a leak. If the fitting was installed correctly it will never leak or "burst". If a compression fitting fails its because it wasn't installed properly. Been wrenching over 40 years and never had an issue with one.
What do you charge for this job? Or how many hours does it take you?
11 years. It's a chevy.
It starts at $1000. If it needs hose, calipers, rotors, or pads the price will go up.
Removing bleed valve…use heat gun maybe torch idk but heat the caliper thread on the side of the wall caliper
whats the price for this job to a customer?
What did you charge?
What do you charge to do something like that
It starts at $1000 including the lines. It goes up if you need brake hoses, if the bleeders won't come up loose and the calipers need replaced.
@@wrenchn9635 Too cheap
How much to replace all the brake line on a Cadillac Escalade ext. Parts and labor
$1000 for lines and labor. If you need brake hoses or the bleeders won't come loose in the caliper, and they have to be replace that will be extra.