I love the new ranking up cars system. It gets me actually trying out cars stock, understanding what's wrong with them and actually learn how to tune the cars, something i used to do in FM2. All recent FM games all i used to do was buy a car and instantly buy the best possible tune and i'm honestly bored of that gameplay loop after doing it for more than a decade. So i'm very happy with the built not bought approach in this FM.
I feel like this works better in multiplayer, as you’ll be using your cars way more often, especially with how long practice sessions tend to be. I think I’m halfway already with the C8.R.
agreed, 100 percent. people who throw upgrades at a car without driving it first to discover its weaknesses and what it needs, is like people who add salt to their food without tasting it first. the car leveling systems lets you understand what the car needs before it's time to upgrade. i don't mind the grind at all.
I agree each car is like a character and really enjoying building them and tuning. For the record building doesn't mean always max level. If I really liked a lower level feel better than later ones I leave it in the lower class
I'm finally happy to see other people who actually enjoy the upgrade system in Forza. It feels like the entire internet lost their collective minds shitting on this system, complaining about having to grind to upgrade your car. I just didn't understand why people were upset at having to race your car, in a racing game! I enjoy it, especially since you have a whole separate pool of points to upgrade, leaving your money to just buy cars with.
@@drgonzo123 My guess is that it’s the equivalent of leveling up your gun to get attachments in modern CoDs, tedious as shit, even though this leveling system is kinda neat.
This is a Video that will help a lot of people, and FYI Yes car height affects downforce in Forza, if front is lower than rear, you get more downforce. It has been from the first forzas.
@@p1rturk598 What are you saying?? In Forza if you lift up the rear you get a increase of downforce and a slightly load on the front wheels. Infact it was one of the tricks of the past, if you lift up the front you will reduce the downfprce and you will have more speed. And from level if you lift up, you are lifting the center of gravity.
The only time I have ever raised the back end is cause it was too loose and I couldn't tune it out. But with the new tuning settings of Forza 8 that is something not needed anymore. @@Wolfox360
@@Bizz4r2m0ke throttle control my guy, start off at like 1/5th throttle and smoothly pull the trigger don't slam it down. If you want to really learn the ins and outs of throttle control I suggest getting a fwd and taking it on a wet track and seeing how smooth you can get your inputs to be
Yay thank goodness. More guides are coming out. Some things are personal preference, but having a math disability, the suspension is the most daunting thing for me because it’s all tied together in three windows. I try to start with 5% 10% or even 15% to 20% (extreme end of things) with increases or decreases. It makes things easier rounding things off but still Dyscalculia makes the suspension difficult . Guess work until I tried small % first. I’d like to think I’m learning. Ty for the knowledge. I’m getting better and better each game.
Forza downforce does increase linear instead of by square with speed. Symmetric aero settings (max/min) can gain a lot of straight line speed and acceleration without sacrificing much cornering speed. Go with the lowest rear aero possible without being instabile in mid and high speed corners. Really stiff ARBs also are good, especially with FDW cars. Just go 40/40 and with a locked front differential.
Just started to dabble with tuning starting with the Porsche 911 gt3 RS 2016 it made a HUGE difference and shaved several seconds off my laps now I just got to perfect my tune boy am I glad I tried tuning I can be competitive in MP now I couldn't be more pleased
I have to disagree with your recommended diff settings for rear wheel drive cars. If others find these settings difficult to control, try on-throttle or acceleration diff at 60%-70% and off-throttle or deceleration diff at 40%-50% depending on the car. This deceleration setting can help remove unwanted lift-off oversteer.
This is a pretty good starting point for those new to tuning. Just a few things to add: Stock setups are actually quite good. You really don't need to change much aside from aero, springs, and roll bars to have something competitive. For gearing, the main telemetry page shows you power output at any given time. You should be setting gears so you're near max power as often as possible while still having appropriate ratios for corner exits. A lot of cars have peak power well below redline, so checking power in telemetry is important. This isn't really a Forza specific thing. Suspension geo is very powerful in Forza now. You can isolate unwanted behaviors in specific cornering phases without having to compromise in others. A lot of cars in Forza, especially GT cars, you run full front and no rear aero. You keep most of the cornering performance of full aero with most of the straight line performance of none. I recommend having a stiff roll bar to compensate for the oversteer
After a good amount of testing, my conclusion is: If you are only concerned about lap times, just tune the gear ratio, aero balance and brake balance. The rest of the settings have some impact in handling but they won't make you faster.
3 things: 1- Thank you for explaining the different areas of tuning instead of just saying to use a preferred number range. That really helped me understand how to get better with my tuning. 2- Around the 11:35/11:40 mark you talk about ride height and vehicle rake. I have noticed that if the rear height is 1 or 2 ticks higher than the front, the braking distance measurement tends to go down indicating that there is some use to adding rake to the tune using ride height or the aero (high front, low rear). Finally, 3- With the Springs and Dampeners, if I use the telemetry and keep the springs to around .7/.8 max compression but the car is still nosediving under braking or squatting under acceleration, would the dampeners counter this movement or do I need to relook at my spring settings? Thanks for the info!
There is big misunderstanding how load/weight transfer works in this video. Suspension stiffness or anti-geometry itself doesn't change how much load/weight is being transfered between wheels. Only thing you can influence with stiffness is how is this load transfered - e.g. axle with more laterally stiff (proportionally to the other one) suspension will "take away" some of the transfer, as it gives more resistance. So stiffening only rear anti roll bar will decrease overall body roll (due to having more overall stiffness), increase load transfer on the rear axle and decrease load transfer on the front axle. Weight transfer determines how much more load is being given to the outside wheel. More load transfer = less overall grip on said axle (generated grip vs vertical load isn't linear, that's why heavy cars corner and brake slower). Roll center changes the point around which sprung mass of the car rotates. Higher roll center will make your car stiffer in roll (and allow you to use softer sway bars) but will increase unwanted "jacking" forces. IRL they are also connected to camber gain rate of wheels during vertical movement but I have no idea how it works in Forza. Anti-geometry doesn't change longitudinal load transfer also. It just changes pitch angle of a car, as suspension geometry is resisting the forces on top of the car. You want to adjust it when using softer springs - IRL you can often face situation in which optimal spring stiffness (in terms of car control and compliance over bumps) doesn't offer enough stiffness to deal with pitch movement (car either hits the ground with front bumper aero devices or just moves around too much too keep consistent downforce levels. Then you use anti-geometry to limit movement under forces generated by car's innertia without changing its' driving dynamics or ability to handle terrain.
Thanks for the video it was very helpful to understand all the car settings as a noob I am. I did find the app and gave it a run on my civic touring car and it really helped with stabalizing the ride for me. I'll give a run online tomorrow and see how it goes.
Id LOVE to see a video on the setup app! Gotta go look or it now… ALSO Loved the video! Been hoping that someone would make this soon to help me get the most out of my tunes!
Nice one, but I think you got the deceleration diff-settings wrong. Higher settings means understeer/more stability while braking because it limits the rotation. On power this switches to the opposite behavior because an open diff always provides a 50/50 torque-split no matter the grip or rotation differences while more locking transfers the torque to the tyre with more grip helping to rotate. Dampers are also more a tool to influence the turn-in and rebounds the turn-out behavior, so weight-transfer. If the car over-rotates on turn-in, stiffen the front dampers (or soften the rear if it comes from there) and stiffer rebounds if the car keeps on turning while you want to switch direction.
You missed something on the Differential page: on All Wheel Drive cars that tuning screen gets much busier because that accel/decel setting is there for front and rear axle separately. And there is another setting that come up for distributing power between the front & back axles as well (so setting it to 100% at the back makes it basically a RWD car, while putting it 1000% at the front turns it into a FWD car)..
Nice, video for new drivers who do not know what they are doing. Until the Forza patch comes in, there probably won't be a lot of good tunes to grab from online. People can use the trick to unlock another person's tune and see everything that they did. I'm sure a lot of the good tuners do not like this so they will wait for the patch.
great guy. one suggestion because i keep on referencing this video: marking the sections on the video timeline would be really helpful. thanks for the hard work
Cars can have up to high as 5 camber, forza physics are still forza physics, bump and rebound can be set to 1/1 and 13/13, which are for a lot of fasts tunes. Overall good guide :)
I believe one of the big reasons we can't run realistic GT cambers is because we can't actually adjust the ackerman. If we could do a negative ackerman setup like a lot of actual race cars have, we might see more benefit from the contact patch and scrub angle created by more extreme track car cambers. Also, a lot of people misunderstand toe. On drive wheels, the force exerted on the wheels while accelerating will cause the wheels to try and pull toe in. On wheels that are not applying power the force exerted by friction with the road wants to push the toe out. Rule of thumb is to toe in on drive wheels, toe out on non-drive wheels.
Jonas I have come to the conclusion that I have absolutely no idea how to tune and end up making my car worse than its default. Thank you for the wonderful guide tho...
Best driving game ive played in a long time.. the new system actually makes me try to understand my vehicle and be one with it and grind it out to where i truly want it to be, makes me feel wat needs to get worked on instead of str8 out maxing it out and tune it
Yep i went with 34 psi and tuned my suspension springs and dampers but not my transmission and differential yet soon though I'll give it a go I'm so enjoying this game even before my seemingly OP GT3 RS tune yeah before the tune the car became unsettled really easy and had crappy turn in and took corners pretty slow now this car 🚗 s a rocket ship through turns it's made the game much more enjoyable
The best way to tune gears is find out the engines Powerband. Some are at 6000rpm or 8000rpm. You wanna keep each gear line on the graph close to the powerband. Then make sure each gear is slightly behind or else you will lose it all.
I’ve been a Forza player for years, and generally just play with the cars with some upgrades but have never done any tuning like this, but always find these kind of videos interesting - just wondering how many people actually do this besides RUclipsrs? It seems like a lot of work to do multiple practice laps for each adjustment, and then do that for each individual car as well. It seems like you’d spend your whole time in the game just doing practice laps? 🤷
I’ve tried tuning a couple of cars now and the middle of the tyres are always 5-10 degrees hotter than the inside and outside, which are pretty much the same temperature. Is there something I can do in the tuning to fix or is it driving style related? Also what is the best all round track that will make your car good everywhere? I’ve heard Watkins Glen, Barcelona and Nurburgring.
If the temperature middle of the tire is higher, then lower the tire pressures until the number is closer to the inside and outside temps. If the pressure is lower in the centre, then you need to increase the tire pressure until they're even. :)
Obviously this is going to depend on what track you’re tuning for, but why is having the acceleration to get to this reduced top speed with the shortened gearing more important than outright top speed?
That's not what he meant. You have to check the top speed right before the breaking point of the longest straight. Here's an example. You have set your 7th gear to a speed of 320km/h. But at the end of the straight you only reach 260 km/h because it just isn't long enough to ever reach 320 with that specific car. And because you have the 7th gear so high, the other gears are adjusted accordingly with a slower acceleration through the lower ones but that will cost you time because you can't use the benefit of the 320 km/h limit in the 7th gear to compensate that slower acceleration. The solution would then be to set your 7th gear to 275 or 280km/h so that, like he said in the video, you almost reach the end of the 7th gear while still having a little bit of room for when you're driving in the slipstream of a car in front of you.
Depends on a lot of things. But I usually go for width changes first before going up tire compounds. Depends how you want to setup a car for certain classes.
So far the cars I've driven like the mustang, I went wider front and left rear as is. The Focus RS w/ 5cylinder I went wider rear at first cuz it calmed down the oversteer. But I like how it rotated with the stock width in some corners. So I went back in forth depending on the track
@@ewsimracingcorner no for corner exit no this wont do anythign bar increaese tyre wear downforce only works at higer speeds not slower speed corners powering out, diff/arb/geo setups will change this, squatting also
Good solid advice. I've been heavily into tuning since GT4 and it's sometimes tricky to jump between all the different games and their meta but Forza is a decent middle ground. It's kind of sim but toned down. Lots of laps and telemetry is the key but these bits of advice you give are very useful.
@@snakeNP215when you go into the tune menu and tune your car there’s a button you can press which takes you to a menu where you can search for tunes to download
Just going to correct you a bit on Drifting. You would want an extremely high negative front camber -4 to -5 and the front caster as low as possible 1.0.
I tested the app and set my car up with it. I will say that the improvements are very noticeable but.... How on earth are others going faster? I'm not expecting to be 1st. Is it the way I take the lines? Just trying to understand how others can go faster. Not much but like 1-2 secs on some tracks. I did mess around with the gearing a bit for each track as well. Question, can we do upgrades on spec cars to get them on the higher side of the race car rating? Im referring to the touring class spec races. I don't want to do that unless it's legal for the spec races. Sorry for the noob questions in advance.
Nope. Each sim has it's own ridiculous meta settings that are completely wrong compared to RL. Each sim has it's own physics algorithms proprietary to the coder. But every single sim out there has these completely ridiculous meta settings you have to use if you want to be e-sports fast. Tuning cars in each sim is very time consuming indeed, because of how the coders decide to clump up similar physics or how they decide to divide up different physics. Sims are always a gross oversimplification of Real Life physics. And every coder does it differently. So try many games and choose the one that feels the most "right" or has the best tracks or cars, and commit mostly to it. And deep mine guides on the crazy meta builds for that game.
Great video, but I would add: steering lock range is extremely useful on console. Series X/S users don’t have the ability to use the wheel’s internal settings per car-or maybe at all in some cases.
@@Liar since it’s in the tuning menu, I set it per car. I don’t think I’ve gone below 95 in any of them yet, but I did notice a positive difference-I’m on a G920.
Hey Michael I found your comment on this really useful. That is because I have this strange turning issue in the game where my left turning is fine, but turning right I can barely get around a sweeping corner and often have to actually handbrake my car to turn around a hairpin! Oddly though the only car that seems to defy this trend is the Sports Aston Martin in Spec races. I am probably a bit slow to figure out what the issue is, but any advice would be greatly appreciated. Cheers, RJ
I just wanna know what to tune so it doesn't feel like Im driving on ice when im exiting a corner. How do I get more grip so I won't powerslide every corner
@@okcalculator670 what I meant was: I did a race on that oval track with one of these nascar type of cars and I was just powersliding all over the place. It just didn't feel right. And im driving with assists on sport so yeah.
@@Kahfjdkajif your going through a turn with something like a nascar, and u just full throttle straight off the exit u will spin out, u need to build the throttle up till you grip
About tires, I would have loved to have a bit more informations about the difference between front and rear pressure. It's usually not the same right ?
They do affect grip and the reaction you get from tires. I tend go for the lower rear for RWD cars. I don't really do FWD. So I have no clue there. I like lower pressures overall cuz I feel like the loss of grip is a little more progressive and can save slides better if I go a little too hard.
Just plain THANK YOU! I do well in racing games... I DO NOT do well in tuning lol. Why I use Coach Dave Academy lol This was a great help for me. Well Done too!
in FM23's tuning settings, it isn't clear on the DAMPERS page if the bump/rebound is the slow or the fast setting of each. when tuning the dampers, which of these should i be considering when adjusting the dampers?
@OverTake_gg Please look at GT lobby cars and tunes. Choose your tune/car, remember or write down the spring weight.. Now look what happens when you load and start at a new track... It happens every time and no matter what you do, that "given" number will always overrule your settings.
I spent all day today trying to tune my chev 90 camaro IROC for A class. But no matter what i did it seemed to understeer. Originally it has a bit of oversteer. but even when i did have that oversteer i still was having understeer and just having trouble taking the curves. Eventually I tried a community tune. It handled much better and i was easily and consistantly able to get 1.5s faster lap times and completely avoid driving off the track. Unfortuiantly you cant see the tune or upgrades of community builds. But you can see cosmetic changes and weight and tire size. So using this info plus the numerical ratings for speed, breaking, handling, and acceleration I recreated the upgrads applied to my car. I actually was able to get a matching rating in all areas except acceleration which was actually .2 higher in my build. The community build was .4 better in handling compared to my og build so I thought maybe that was the issue. But trying it out with my tune wasn't much better if at all. So i decided to keep those upgrades and just wipe my tune completey. And immediatly I got the grip i wanted and a great lap time. So something was obviosuly wrong with my tune. So I started over. First i adjusted the final gear ratio and managed to get a slightly better lap time. Then I adjsted the springs. This adjustment seemd to cause very similar understeer that i experience before and resulted in similar lap times. So I'm thinking the tune on the springs/ride height is to blame. I was easily able to lower ride height to it's min value and make the springs super soft. Springs telementry didn't seem to be reaching 0 nor did experience any bottoming out of the car on the track surface or irregular control. So why does my car seem to have so much trouble on the turns with this setup?
Maybe try checking out how the front tires warm up during a good turn. Sounds like the front is too stiff or the rear is too soft. You can also try going a lower rear width or bigger front tire
@@mattecrystal6403 bigger usually is better. It's one of those things you can change to affect the behavior of a car. I don't consider ratios, I go by feeling. Wider rear if it tends to over steer, wider front if it tends to understeer. If it's neutral, I do both or none. I usually change parts first instead of getting race parts and fine tuning. I find stock setups are usually pretty good. I drive it stock and see what I feel like it needs. Lighter weight, wider tires, more powah, anti roll, etc
I don't go for race parts unless it's necessary if the car drives like ass. Or if I'm trying to be competitive. But that's just me. You can build your cars how you want to
One of the cars I’m trying to get dialed in is having an issue with transitioning in S curves. First right; good, first left; good. Second right; starts to loosen, second left; we drifting boys. Can’t quite figure it out with out making it bad in long sweeping turns. I’ll just play with it some more
u have just answered your own comment, use whatever doesn’t increase the class as much seeing as u want A class, then upgrade to race on some upgrades till u get A 700
You could add ballast to lose a few PI but the weight will obviously go up, you can sometimes do weight reduction with ballast to make fine adjustments and the added benefit of doing this will always push the weight more to the centre of the car, making it more balanced. Can be tricky to get the right PI swapping and changing parts around!
Thank you for being willing to pay the CEO to beta test the game and give valuable feedback. I can't fathom dropping $70 and I can't just jump in any car and start upgrading without grinding the levels. I have a really bad feeling they'll start selling $$$ coupons to instantly level up a single car. I'm going to wait and see how they fix this grindy leveling of cars. If it is by design, the final cost might be more than double $70. I'm also going to wait and see if Nords is a free update or a $ DLC. Also waiting to see if other updates like better AI will be locked behind a $ DLC.
This game is a joke, how I'm supposed to tune a setup in private mode ? - No access to a proper board to see your lap times - No access to datas if not driving - How TF I'm supposed to drive and analyze the telemetry at the same time ? - No proper live datas about your lap times (faster or slower) - Racing game that lacks lot of racing tools - No rev lights on the steering wheel (Ford GTE and not the only one I guess) - To go back to the pit you have to quit the "race" which is actually a testing session, and then when back on track, you start from "lap 1" again. - Ranking system clearly don't work as I'm always against rammers in multiplayer, even if I'm S class with 4400 skill rating - SO MANY MORE BAD THINGS This game is just not for racers ... Yes I'm upset. Nice video by the way, thank you
Wow a video about actually tuning in motorsport instead of complaining that the driving socks when in reality the players just suck at building a car and tuning
Race cars usually have a small amount of negative toe on the front to help with turn in and toe out on the back to help with stability. You have it backwards.
Toe in increases stability and adds understeer, toe out decreases stability and adds oversteer. Front toe in = slower turn in response, toe out = faster turn in response. You have it backwards
The toe in and out in this game is wrong. Negative toe here is actually toe in, and positive toe here is actually toe out. Why the F#@$ would Forza Motorsportz go opposite of everyone??? I dunno, but THEY DIDI IT!!
When starting out tuning always drive car with base tune before starting your tune. 2nd change one tuning section at a time then test drive and see if you like the changes snd check track times to see if you are actually improving the tune . Its a process and will take a long time but can amount to great improvement in times around the track. As with time will come experience and eventually you can tune multiple things after initial test drive.
Can you make a video on the open series in the campaign? Or other gas c class a class Snr class? I believe then you get a McClaren at the very. And can you tell us what cars are the best NC class and so on and so forth? So I can level up those cars. Great content. By the way, Euro is rarely informative. Thank you for your Videos It's been a real hope to hear back from You soon. Sorry I'm disabled so I can't really well. I can't use the microphone, so some stuff comes out. Not the right word, sorry.
Sol agrees 100% tune your own car to better fit your needs and driving style. Shared tunes are for those who like to collect others opinions. i have No use for shared tunes in my racing career. that's why i don't share mine.
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
I love the new ranking up cars system. It gets me actually trying out cars stock, understanding what's wrong with them and actually learn how to tune the cars, something i used to do in FM2. All recent FM games all i used to do was buy a car and instantly buy the best possible tune and i'm honestly bored of that gameplay loop after doing it for more than a decade. So i'm very happy with the built not bought approach in this FM.
I feel like this works better in multiplayer, as you’ll be using your cars way more often, especially with how long practice sessions tend to be. I think I’m halfway already with the C8.R.
agreed, 100 percent. people who throw upgrades at a car without driving it first to discover its weaknesses and what it needs, is like people who add salt to their food without tasting it first. the car leveling systems lets you understand what the car needs before it's time to upgrade. i don't mind the grind at all.
I agree each car is like a character and really enjoying building them and tuning. For the record building doesn't mean always max level. If I really liked a lower level feel better than later ones I leave it in the lower class
I'm finally happy to see other people who actually enjoy the upgrade system in Forza. It feels like the entire internet lost their collective minds shitting on this system, complaining about having to grind to upgrade your car. I just didn't understand why people were upset at having to race your car, in a racing game! I enjoy it, especially since you have a whole separate pool of points to upgrade, leaving your money to just buy cars with.
@@drgonzo123 My guess is that it’s the equivalent of leveling up your gun to get attachments in modern CoDs, tedious as shit, even though this leveling system is kinda neat.
2:00 Tire pressure
4:05 Gearing
6:05 Alignment
11:00 Springs
13:30 Damping
15:30 Anti-roll bars
17:20 Suspension geometry
19:10 Areo
21:55 Brake
23:20 Differential
25:50 Steering wheel
I love people like you
@@maybemang4980 thanks 😄
This is a Video that will help a lot of people, and FYI Yes car height affects downforce in Forza, if front is lower than rear, you get more downforce. It has been from the first forzas.
It does not increase downforce. It increases grip because you are lowering your center of gravity.
@@p1rturk598 What are you saying?? In Forza if you lift up the rear you get a increase of downforce and a slightly load on the front wheels. Infact it was one of the tricks of the past, if you lift up the front you will reduce the downfprce and you will have more speed. And from level if you lift up, you are lifting the center of gravity.
The only time I have ever raised the back end is cause it was too loose and I couldn't tune it out. But with the new tuning settings of Forza 8 that is something not needed anymore. @@Wolfox360
Man, I'm so glad I gave Forza another chance. Not sure why, but I wasn't feeling it when it launched. Thanks for this video, really helped.
I'm a Forza veteran with some top 10 global times and even I learnt some great tips. Great video!
Autograph?
Hey, don't cut in line! @@jimhoolagan9449
@@jimhoolagan9449 😂
Any tips on how not to be a dumbass and spin in front of the field on the start? Asking for a friend..
@@Bizz4r2m0ke throttle control my guy, start off at like 1/5th throttle and smoothly pull the trigger don't slam it down. If you want to really learn the ins and outs of throttle control I suggest getting a fwd and taking it on a wet track and seeing how smooth you can get your inputs to be
Yay thank goodness. More guides are coming out. Some things are personal preference, but having a math disability, the suspension is the most daunting thing for me because it’s all tied together in three windows.
I try to start with 5% 10% or even 15% to 20% (extreme end of things) with increases or decreases.
It makes things easier rounding things off but still Dyscalculia makes the suspension difficult .
Guess work until I tried small % first. I’d like to think I’m learning.
Ty for the knowledge. I’m getting better and better each game.
Forza downforce does increase linear instead of by square with speed. Symmetric aero settings (max/min) can gain a lot of straight line speed and acceleration without sacrificing much cornering speed. Go with the lowest rear aero possible without being instabile in mid and high speed corners.
Really stiff ARBs also are good, especially with FDW cars. Just go 40/40 and with a locked front differential.
Works for the initial honda Civic?
Just started to dabble with tuning starting with the Porsche 911 gt3 RS 2016 it made a HUGE difference and shaved several seconds off my laps now I just got to perfect my tune boy am I glad I tried tuning I can be competitive in MP now I couldn't be more pleased
I have to disagree with your recommended diff settings for rear wheel drive cars. If others find these settings difficult to control, try on-throttle or acceleration diff at 60%-70% and off-throttle or deceleration diff at 40%-50% depending on the car. This deceleration setting can help remove unwanted lift-off oversteer.
He literally said 60% and 40% for RWD cars??
This is a pretty good starting point for those new to tuning. Just a few things to add:
Stock setups are actually quite good. You really don't need to change much aside from aero, springs, and roll bars to have something competitive.
For gearing, the main telemetry page shows you power output at any given time. You should be setting gears so you're near max power as often as possible while still having appropriate ratios for corner exits. A lot of cars have peak power well below redline, so checking power in telemetry is important. This isn't really a Forza specific thing.
Suspension geo is very powerful in Forza now. You can isolate unwanted behaviors in specific cornering phases without having to compromise in others.
A lot of cars in Forza, especially GT cars, you run full front and no rear aero. You keep most of the cornering performance of full aero with most of the straight line performance of none. I recommend having a stiff roll bar to compensate for the oversteer
so a stiff rollbar generates understeer?
After a good amount of testing, my conclusion is: If you are only concerned about lap times, just tune the gear ratio, aero balance and brake balance. The rest of the settings have some impact in handling but they won't make you faster.
3 things:
1- Thank you for explaining the different areas of tuning instead of just saying to use a preferred number range. That really helped me understand how to get better with my tuning.
2- Around the 11:35/11:40 mark you talk about ride height and vehicle rake. I have noticed that if the rear height is 1 or 2 ticks higher than the front, the braking distance measurement tends to go down indicating that there is some use to adding rake to the tune using ride height or the aero (high front, low rear).
Finally, 3- With the Springs and Dampeners, if I use the telemetry and keep the springs to around .7/.8 max compression but the car is still nosediving under braking or squatting under acceleration, would the dampeners counter this movement or do I need to relook at my spring settings?
Thanks for the info!
There is big misunderstanding how load/weight transfer works in this video.
Suspension stiffness or anti-geometry itself doesn't change how much load/weight is being transfered between wheels. Only thing you can influence with stiffness is how is this load transfered - e.g. axle with more laterally stiff (proportionally to the other one) suspension will "take away" some of the transfer, as it gives more resistance. So stiffening only rear anti roll bar will decrease overall body roll (due to having more overall stiffness), increase load transfer on the rear axle and decrease load transfer on the front axle. Weight transfer determines how much more load is being given to the outside wheel. More load transfer = less overall grip on said axle (generated grip vs vertical load isn't linear, that's why heavy cars corner and brake slower).
Roll center changes the point around which sprung mass of the car rotates. Higher roll center will make your car stiffer in roll (and allow you to use softer sway bars) but will increase unwanted "jacking" forces. IRL they are also connected to camber gain rate of wheels during vertical movement but I have no idea how it works in Forza. Anti-geometry doesn't change longitudinal load transfer also. It just changes pitch angle of a car, as suspension geometry is resisting the forces on top of the car. You want to adjust it when using softer springs - IRL you can often face situation in which optimal spring stiffness (in terms of car control and compliance over bumps) doesn't offer enough stiffness to deal with pitch movement (car either hits the ground with front bumper aero devices or just moves around too much too keep consistent downforce levels. Then you use anti-geometry to limit movement under forces generated by car's innertia without changing its' driving dynamics or ability to handle terrain.
it helped me go 5 seconds faster no extra effort, thank you
Thanks for the video it was very helpful to understand all the car settings as a noob I am. I did find the app and gave it a run on my civic touring car and it really helped with stabalizing the ride for me. I'll give a run online tomorrow and see how it goes.
I have several top 100 rivals spots all using my own tunes. This is a great video for beginners and veterans alike.
What are the most important things that you’re tuning for? Any tips?
Best explanation of forzas tuning! By far!
Id LOVE to see a video on the setup app! Gotta go look or it now… ALSO Loved the video! Been hoping that someone would make this soon to help me get the most out of my tunes!
Amazing video!
Extremely helpful going back and reviewing your guide !
You did a lot of work on this video and it is appreciated. Thank you, I'm going to jump right back in and test some of these settings out.
Nice one, but I think you got the deceleration diff-settings wrong. Higher settings means understeer/more stability while braking because it limits the rotation. On power this switches to the opposite behavior because an open diff always provides a 50/50 torque-split no matter the grip or rotation differences while more locking transfers the torque to the tyre with more grip helping to rotate. Dampers are also more a tool to influence the turn-in and rebounds the turn-out behavior, so weight-transfer. If the car over-rotates on turn-in, stiffen the front dampers (or soften the rear if it comes from there) and stiffer rebounds if the car keeps on turning while you want to switch direction.
Very informative thanks
This is a pretty good guide, I think I will try some of these settings on a few cars.
Small thing with the Diff at the end for FWD. Pretty much everything will be fastest using 100% accel and 0% decel. Those are meta esports numbers
You missed something on the Differential page: on All Wheel Drive cars that tuning screen gets much busier because that accel/decel setting is there for front and rear axle separately.
And there is another setting that come up for distributing power between the front & back axles as well (so setting it to 100% at the back makes it basically a RWD car, while putting it 1000% at the front turns it into a FWD car)..
Nice, video for new drivers who do not know what they are doing. Until the Forza patch comes in, there probably won't be a lot of good tunes to grab from online. People can use the trick to unlock another person's tune and see everything that they did. I'm sure a lot of the good tuners do not like this so they will wait for the patch.
great guy. one suggestion because i keep on referencing this video: marking the sections on the video timeline would be really helpful. thanks for the hard work
Cars can have up to high as 5 camber, forza physics are still forza physics, bump and rebound can be set to 1/1 and 13/13, which are for a lot of fasts tunes. Overall good guide :)
thanks for the vids. even as a seasoned player i have to some back to this type of stuff as a refresher
I believe one of the big reasons we can't run realistic GT cambers is because we can't actually adjust the ackerman. If we could do a negative ackerman setup like a lot of actual race cars have, we might see more benefit from the contact patch and scrub angle created by more extreme track car cambers. Also, a lot of people misunderstand toe. On drive wheels, the force exerted on the wheels while accelerating will cause the wheels to try and pull toe in. On wheels that are not applying power the force exerted by friction with the road wants to push the toe out. Rule of thumb is to toe in on drive wheels, toe out on non-drive wheels.
Jonas I have come to the conclusion that I have absolutely no idea how to tune and end up making my car worse than its default. Thank you for the wonderful guide tho...
Absolutely solid advice thanks 👌
Best driving game ive played in a long time.. the new system actually makes me try to understand my vehicle and be one with it and grind it out to where i truly want it to be, makes me feel wat needs to get worked on instead of str8 out maxing it out and tune it
Thanks for making this, very informative and gelpful
Great video learned a lot from watching. Thanks
THX SO MUCH BRO THIS REALLY HELPED ME!!!
Yep i went with 34 psi and tuned my suspension springs and dampers but not my transmission and differential yet soon though I'll give it a go I'm so enjoying this game even before my seemingly OP GT3 RS tune yeah before the tune the car became unsettled really easy and had crappy turn in and took corners pretty slow now this car 🚗 s a rocket ship through turns it's made the game much more enjoyable
wow this is amazing... Thanks mate.. legend!!!
The red and blue graphics on the beta look 👌
Thank you for making this. Great video!
danke! endlich mal ein video was ich gebraucht habe
Would moving the toll center height completely eliminate the need of toe or is that an under load vs neutral turn in difference?
I love the new Forza, the cars are all unique. Seems like in Horizon they feel samey and like toys
The best way to tune gears is find out the engines Powerband. Some are at 6000rpm or 8000rpm. You wanna keep each gear line on the graph close to the powerband. Then make sure each gear is slightly behind or else you will lose it all.
1:17 that's setup i've made for the 2020 Honda Civic lmao. Y'all should download it, it's quite good (trust me)
Finally, someone uses the metric system on RUclips 👍👍👍
mega brill vid, mate!
I’ve been a Forza player for years, and generally just play with the cars with some upgrades but have never done any tuning like this, but always find these kind of videos interesting - just wondering how many people actually do this besides RUclipsrs? It seems like a lot of work to do multiple practice laps for each adjustment, and then do that for each individual car as well. It seems like you’d spend your whole time in the game just doing practice laps? 🤷
Thanks for the help, a video on the ap yo7 mentioned would be helpful too.
I’ve tried tuning a couple of cars now and the middle of the tyres are always 5-10 degrees hotter than the inside and outside, which are pretty much the same temperature. Is there something I can do in the tuning to fix or is it driving style related?
Also what is the best all round track that will make your car good everywhere? I’ve heard Watkins Glen, Barcelona and Nurburgring.
If the temperature middle of the tire is higher, then lower the tire pressures until the number is closer to the inside and outside temps. If the pressure is lower in the centre, then you need to increase the tire pressure until they're even. :)
Obviously this is going to depend on what track you’re tuning for, but why is having the acceleration to get to this reduced top speed with the shortened gearing more important than outright top speed?
That's not what he meant. You have to check the top speed right before the breaking point of the longest straight. Here's an example.
You have set your 7th gear to a speed of 320km/h. But at the end of the straight you only reach 260 km/h because it just isn't long enough to ever reach 320 with that specific car.
And because you have the 7th gear so high, the other gears are adjusted accordingly with a slower acceleration through the lower ones but that will cost you time because you can't use the benefit of the 320 km/h limit in the 7th gear to compensate that slower acceleration.
The solution would then be to set your 7th gear to 275 or 280km/h so that, like he said in the video, you almost reach the end of the 7th gear while still having a little bit of room for when you're driving in the slipstream of a car in front of you.
What do u tune to make the spin on the back tires less because i keep spinning out when i accelerate?
Is the app you mentioned near the end Forzatune? If so, I've used and really liked it for FM7, FH4, and FH5!
Thank you so much! Any advice on Tire width? Width vs Compound? Front vs Rear? Is Max available width always better for Racing?
Rear wheel width is really important. Max width with racing compound is the best choice.
Depends on a lot of things. But I usually go for width changes first before going up tire compounds. Depends how you want to setup a car for certain classes.
So far the cars I've driven like the mustang, I went wider front and left rear as is. The Focus RS w/ 5cylinder I went wider rear at first cuz it calmed down the oversteer. But I like how it rotated with the stock width in some corners. So I went back in forth depending on the track
Great video, this entire time I thought negative toe increased turn-in. Silly me 😁😁
Thank you, this is really helpfull!
How do you fix fishtailing due to too much power on turn exit?
differential
Also throttle control. If you have a high power rear wheel drive car, you have to have a little more finesse with the throttle.
Sounds also add some down force to the rear!
@@ewsimracingcorner no for corner exit no this wont do anythign bar increaese tyre wear downforce only works at higer speeds not slower speed corners powering out, diff/arb/geo setups will change this, squatting also
@@lu34lyf ahhh gotcha thanks 👌
Good solid advice. I've been heavily into tuning since GT4 and it's sometimes tricky to jump between all the different games and their meta but Forza is a decent middle ground. It's kind of sim but toned down. Lots of laps and telemetry is the key but these bits of advice you give are very useful.
Shout out to RaceBoy77 for doing all the hard work lol
Who is raceboy77
@@snakeNP215 he does a tune for pretty much every lobby car that you can use out the box and be competitive
@@Joeguard1990 we’re can I find him and his tunes? Thanks
@@snakeNP215when you go into the tune menu and tune your car there’s a button you can press which takes you to a menu where you can search for tunes to download
Perfect Tutorial ! Ty
Just going to correct you a bit on Drifting. You would want an extremely high negative front camber -4 to -5 and the front caster as low as possible 1.0.
Oh no. The ridiculous meta setups that don't make any RL sense starts!
Perfect thank you for explaining it i harshly knew what to do but i could never really explain to my friends what i do exactly good video keep it up
I tested the app and set my car up with it. I will say that the improvements are very noticeable but.... How on earth are others going faster? I'm not expecting to be 1st. Is it the way I take the lines? Just trying to understand how others can go faster. Not much but like 1-2 secs on some tracks. I did mess around with the gearing a bit for each track as well. Question, can we do upgrades on spec cars to get them on the higher side of the race car rating? Im referring to the touring class spec races. I don't want to do that unless it's legal for the spec races. Sorry for the noob questions in advance.
Is this tuning guide universal for any sim?
This Forza has more configuration options
no, alot of these settings are completely unrealistic
Nope. Each sim has it's own ridiculous meta settings that are completely wrong compared to RL. Each sim has it's own physics algorithms proprietary to the coder. But every single sim out there has these completely ridiculous meta settings you have to use if you want to be e-sports fast. Tuning cars in each sim is very time consuming indeed, because of how the coders decide to clump up similar physics or how they decide to divide up different physics. Sims are always a gross oversimplification of Real Life physics. And every coder does it differently. So try many games and choose the one that feels the most "right" or has the best tracks or cars, and commit mostly to it. And deep mine guides on the crazy meta builds for that game.
@@virtualawakening2299 Is there a way of finding out what works best on every sim?
Great video, but I would add: steering lock range is extremely useful on console. Series X/S users don’t have the ability to use the wheel’s internal settings per car-or maybe at all in some cases.
Interesting. What setting do u use?
@@Liar since it’s in the tuning menu, I set it per car. I don’t think I’ve gone below 95 in any of them yet, but I did notice a positive difference-I’m on a G920.
Hey Michael I found your comment on this really useful. That is because I have this strange turning issue in the game where my left turning is fine, but turning right I can barely get around a sweeping corner and often have to actually handbrake my car to turn around a hairpin! Oddly though the only car that seems to defy this trend is the Sports Aston Martin in Spec races. I am probably a bit slow to figure out what the issue is, but any advice would be greatly appreciated. Cheers, RJ
I just wanna know what to tune so it doesn't feel like Im driving on ice when im exiting a corner. How do I get more grip so I won't powerslide every corner
lol
Watch the video again but at 1/2 speed
@@okcalculator670 lmao I haven't watched it yet but that was funny ngl
@@okcalculator670 what I meant was: I did a race on that oval track with one of these nascar type of cars and I was just powersliding all over the place. It just didn't feel right. And im driving with assists on sport so yeah.
@@Kahfjdkajif your going through a turn with something like a nascar, and u just full throttle straight off the exit u will spin out, u need to build the throttle up till you grip
Have you used a Cammus C5 on this game yet? I'm struggling to get quality FFB settings for it. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
How do I turn on automatic updates automatic tunes. I just want to race I don't want to have to do all that stuff
About tires, I would have loved to have a bit more informations about the difference between front and rear pressure. It's usually not the same right ?
They do affect grip and the reaction you get from tires. I tend go for the lower rear for RWD cars. I don't really do FWD. So I have no clue there. I like lower pressures overall cuz I feel like the loss of grip is a little more progressive and can save slides better if I go a little too hard.
this exact tune is considered to be illegal in online gt racing, is there a way around this?
Which track do you recommend using for an all round tune of a vehicle?
Silverstone full circuit
can u tell me or us the your graphics settings as well ?? my game looks soooooo blurry with max settings and looks like its in 720p instead of 2k
Just plain THANK YOU! I do well in racing games... I DO NOT do well in tuning lol. Why I use Coach Dave Academy lol This was a great help for me. Well Done too!
in FM23's tuning settings, it isn't clear on the DAMPERS page if the bump/rebound is the slow or the fast setting of each. when tuning the dampers, which of these should i be considering when adjusting the dampers?
Both I would think? I don't think they simulate that much yet
Brilliant video
@OverTake_gg Please look at GT lobby cars and tunes.
Choose your tune/car, remember or write down the spring weight..
Now look what happens when you load and start at a new track...
It happens every time and no matter what you do, that "given" number will always overrule your settings.
I’m from Canada and my tire pressure is in BAR, I tried to change the measurements to metric in the settings but no luck :(
I spent all day today trying to tune my chev 90 camaro IROC for A class. But no matter what i did it seemed to understeer. Originally it has a bit of oversteer. but even when i did have that oversteer i still was having understeer and just having trouble taking the curves.
Eventually I tried a community tune. It handled much better and i was easily and consistantly able to get 1.5s faster lap times and completely avoid driving off the track.
Unfortuiantly you cant see the tune or upgrades of community builds. But you can see cosmetic changes and weight and tire size. So using this info plus the numerical ratings for speed, breaking, handling, and acceleration I recreated the upgrads applied to my car. I actually was able to get a matching rating in all areas except acceleration which was actually .2 higher in my build. The community build was .4 better in handling compared to my og build so I thought maybe that was the issue.
But trying it out with my tune wasn't much better if at all. So i decided to keep those upgrades and just wipe my tune completey. And immediatly I got the grip i wanted and a great lap time. So something was obviosuly wrong with my tune. So I started over. First i adjusted the final gear ratio and managed to get a slightly better lap time. Then I adjsted the springs. This adjustment seemd to cause very similar understeer that i experience before and resulted in similar lap times. So I'm thinking the tune on the springs/ride height is to blame.
I was easily able to lower ride height to it's min value and make the springs super soft. Springs telementry didn't seem to be reaching 0 nor did experience any bottoming out of the car on the track surface or irregular control. So why does my car seem to have so much trouble on the turns with this setup?
Maybe try checking out how the front tires warm up during a good turn. Sounds like the front is too stiff or the rear is too soft. You can also try going a lower rear width or bigger front tire
@@alexisthemexican I figured bigger tires == better. is there specific senarios where you want certain wheel size ratios or something?
@@mattecrystal6403 bigger usually is better. It's one of those things you can change to affect the behavior of a car. I don't consider ratios, I go by feeling. Wider rear if it tends to over steer, wider front if it tends to understeer. If it's neutral, I do both or none. I usually change parts first instead of getting race parts and fine tuning. I find stock setups are usually pretty good. I drive it stock and see what I feel like it needs. Lighter weight, wider tires, more powah, anti roll, etc
I don't go for race parts unless it's necessary if the car drives like ass. Or if I'm trying to be competitive. But that's just me. You can build your cars how you want to
Ford Focus RS for example. All I did was clutch, sport trans and brakes and I was whooping butt in the hot hatch career event.
How do i get the car to just turn at like 60 mph around a basic turn i can take in my daily driver? Shouldnt really need tuning dor that
Thanks 🙂
Have you figured out how to fix the sudden snap of oversteer when slowing down on the wheel? It's so frustrating.
You might want to change your brake bias or adjust your suspension to not move too much to the front
What is the app called? Please make a video of the app.
Agreed wish he would have said the name of the app
Pretty sure he’s talking about ForzaTune, which helps you create a base tune
Forza Tune Pro. Really good app.
One of the cars I’m trying to get dialed in is having an issue with transitioning in S curves. First right; good, first left; good. Second right; starts to loosen, second left; we drifting boys. Can’t quite figure it out with out making it bad in long sweeping turns. I’ll just play with it some more
Damping setting will help. Not a genius but adjusting rebound i remember helped a lot get control of an unwieldy car like that. I remember raising
force feedback scal? no word to clipping?
Great job
When I tune the 2021 BMW M4 for A CLASS, should I use RACE parts or SPORTS? If I choose RACE parts then the car ends in R CLASS
u have just answered your own comment, use whatever doesn’t increase the class as much seeing as u want A class, then upgrade to race on some upgrades till u get A 700
You could add ballast to lose a few PI but the weight will obviously go up, you can sometimes do weight reduction with ballast to make fine adjustments and the added benefit of doing this will always push the weight more to the centre of the car, making it more balanced. Can be tricky to get the right PI swapping and changing parts around!
I wonder what updates and patches we’re getting next week
I’m still having trouble with springs/damping
GT car is Castro seven front camber .8 rear camber .9 to be the sweet spot.
Thank you for being willing to pay the CEO to beta test the game and give valuable feedback. I can't fathom dropping $70 and I can't just jump in any car and start upgrading without grinding the levels. I have a really bad feeling they'll start selling $$$ coupons to instantly level up a single car. I'm going to wait and see how they fix this grindy leveling of cars. If it is by design, the final cost might be more than double $70. I'm also going to wait and see if Nords is a free update or a $ DLC. Also waiting to see if other updates like better AI will be locked behind a $ DLC.
This game is a joke, how I'm supposed to tune a setup in private mode ?
- No access to a proper board to see your lap times
- No access to datas if not driving
- How TF I'm supposed to drive and analyze the telemetry at the same time ?
- No proper live datas about your lap times (faster or slower)
- Racing game that lacks lot of racing tools
- No rev lights on the steering wheel (Ford GTE and not the only one I guess)
- To go back to the pit you have to quit the "race" which is actually a testing session, and then when back on track, you start from "lap 1" again.
- Ranking system clearly don't work as I'm always against rammers in multiplayer, even if I'm S class with 4400 skill rating
- SO MANY MORE BAD THINGS
This game is just not for racers ... Yes I'm upset.
Nice video by the way, thank you
yeah i agree
Wow a video about actually tuning in motorsport instead of complaining that the driving socks when in reality the players just suck at building a car and tuning
Race cars usually have a small amount of negative toe on the front to help with turn in and toe out on the back to help with stability. You have it backwards.
Does that apply to Forza?
Toe in increases stability and adds understeer, toe out decreases stability and adds oversteer. Front toe in = slower turn in response, toe out = faster turn in response.
You have it backwards
Toe in is less repsosne toe out is more, your wrong
The toe in and out in this game is wrong. Negative toe here is actually toe in, and positive toe here is actually toe out. Why the F#@$ would Forza Motorsportz go opposite of everyone??? I dunno, but THEY DIDI IT!!
I watched and understand everything you said but my car still have a lot of oversteering
Hey great video. What is the app you mention at the end? 😨
Forzatune I recommend the Pro version.
When starting out tuning always drive car with base tune before starting your tune.
2nd change one tuning section at a time then test drive and see if you like the changes snd check track times to see if you are actually improving the tune . Its a process and will take a long time but can amount to great improvement in times around the track. As with time will come experience and eventually you can tune multiple things after initial test drive.
Can you make a video on the open series in the campaign? Or other gas c class a class Snr class? I believe then you get a McClaren at the very. And can you tell us what cars are the best NC class and so on and so forth? So I can level up those cars. Great content. By the way, Euro is rarely informative. Thank you for your Videos It's been a real hope to hear back from You soon. Sorry I'm disabled so I can't really well. I can't use the microphone, so some stuff comes out. Not the right word, sorry.
I need Tune for porsche 911 rsr 2017
Nice! Though this video could've easily been called: 'revealing how broken Forza's physics are' 😂
Sol agrees 100% tune your own car to better fit your needs and driving style. Shared tunes are for those who like to collect others opinions. i have No use for shared tunes in my racing career. that's why i don't share mine.