You can tell Sailrite that your use of these machines just sold me on one. Promotional dollars well spent - and thank you for providing such relevant content.
Thank you, Ben! For the record, I've been using mine for about a year and a half now, and I still love it! I have an upcoming project video that I could not have done without it. Enjoy your machine, and thanks for watching!
Awesome. I've been eyeing these machines for a little over a year, but I have a complicated travel bag project on deck that has sealed the deal. Thanks for helping to demystify sewing and for making my projects more manageable.
13 years? Tell me more. What do you use it for? How often do you use the machine? Any maintenance issues? Tips or tricks? Recommended accessories? Thanks in advance.
Thanks, I recently bought the LSZ-1 and you have confirmed my good choice. I have gotten into making handbags and my Baby Lock machine I use for quilting was not what I needed for heavy materials and bulky seams. I'm glad to know you like the machine too.
Roberta L. Jones I have the LSZ-1 that I bought about 4 years ago. I use mine when I make leather wallets. You can be assured yours will feed whatever you put under the presser foot... within reason. Don't cram a mass a material under it and expect a great stitch... but it still may surprise you. All the necessary information you need to keep it tuned up and working correctly. Please take some time on scraps sewing in order to get used to sewing with a very aggressive feed system. This is also the reason as he stated, this is not very suitable for thinner material. I use mine for leather and canvas... pretty much everything else I use my "green machine", a 70's Kenmore. Buy a good assortment of needles, other than leather, I have found the "serv 7" needles seem to be the best all around needles. The leather needles can't be beat or compared to any leather needle you have ever used. I have made Stingray covered wallets and several bags... Stingray is very hard to sew with a machine, but my Sailrite handles it like a champ... Real Stingray, not embossed veg tan crap. Enjoy your Sailrite, and watch the Sailrite videos on their RUclips channel about the machine.
Excellent review and comparisons. That fact that you are still using it so much is a great testimonial about that machine. Their website also offers very good support for all types of sewing projects.
I also bought the LS-1 2 years ago and I did not knew how to sew. I learned through youtube videos and I'am now doing mobile auto auphosltery with this machine, I can take it anywhere. Great review Jason you did there. I haven't tried sewing carpet on this machine, maybe is not strong enough. I have also had the needle bar come out of place a few times when i put too much vinyl together with foam and piping (plastic tube) when sewing seat covers.
I’m thinking about buying the ls-1 to make my Therapy Dog vest, I use a canvas like material called duck cloth, I put two layers together and then sew on bias binding I get from sailrite
I've had an LS-1 for about 11 years now and am very pleased with it. I sew yurt covers with 10 oz Sunforger canvas and the LS-1 sews it with ease. It is a great reliable machine but, if I had it all to do over again I would have gotten the LSZ-1. The addition of the zig-zag stitch expands the possibilities of what can be sewn. The Monster wheel allows me to use the machine where there is no power (North Dakota prairie making repairs).
Thank you for this review! I'm curious, I understand that the noise level is quite loud, but how would you rate the vibration? I'm not so much worried about the noise in my apartment as much as the vibration into the floor that might disturb my downstairs neighbors.
Hi! In the last couple of years, Sailrite has developed a new motor system (called WorkerB) that is now standard on the Ultrafeed machines. This has completely solved the noise issue, while also providing a significant power increase and improved speed control. That said, whether in a table, the portable case or the wooden base, I have never detected any vibration using an Ultrafeed (I own two now and have used several). I can't imagine a circumstance where the vibration from this machine would transfer to a neighbor. I hope that helps! Thanks for watching!
Excellent review, and thanks for propping that excellent Singer 237. I like the Sail-Rite machines for what they can do, but I love my Singer 223, which is very similar to your 237 there. Beautiful Japanese made quality and smooth as it gets. I plan on getting a Sail-Rite LSZ-1 by this summer after seeing a friends in action with some sail making. Still, my 223 goes through 8 layers of dacron or 8 to 10 layers of 12oz duck canvas like a hot knife through butter. However, it lacks a walking foot.
Hi, Jason, I stumbled upon your review while looking at used machines and seeing another brand of portable walking foot machine. I am definitely interested in the Sailrite as I want to start making bags and purses. I appreciated your thorough review and demonstration in this video. But I must confess that I was delighted to see that you also use a Singer 237. My 237 was given to me by my mother in 1966 and has been my workhorse, and I wouldn't give it up for anything. I do like, though, the extra power and walking foot of the Sailrite. So it goes on my "some day" list. Oh, and btw - love your kitties, especially the black one!
Hi Susan, I'm glad you found my channel! I love my 237, and the fact that it uses the same Class 15 Bobbin as the Sailrite is nice, too. Since my Sailrite isn't a zig-zag model, I can easily switch a project to the 237 if I need to zig-zag something, and don't even have to wind a different bobbin for it. I've been using the Sailrite for over 2 years now, and I still love it. And thanks re: the cats! Bobbin (the black one) is my boy - if he hears me talking to the camera, he knows it's time to come star in a video lol! Thanks for watching and commenting! PS - another video of mine you might enjoy is "Why Do I Have So Many Sewing Machines."
Thanks for the vid. I've been very curious about sailrite machines and it's so good to see a legit review on one. I've been watching craigslist for industrial machines but it's looking more like I'll go with a new machine. I certainly know it will be a walking foot machine. I want to do things like add webbing and center tie outs to canvas tarps and attempt a canvas tent possibly. An apprenticeship with Tentsmiths would be a dream come true. If only.:-)
I am now at that point. I have an industrial Singer 211 G which I can't bring to the boat, and there are always adjustments, my portable is a tiny singer simple machine. Great review. Thank you for mentioning that the other portable walking foot machines are basically knock offs of this. The other surprise though was the noise factor. I have seen tons of their videos , and never thought the machines were noisy.Looking forward to getting to know your videos. Thank you
Hi Elliott, I made a video about the noise level of the Sailrite that you might want to look for. I've found myself repeating the same thing; if you're sewing in the same room (or boat) another person is currently sleeping in, that could be problematic. Under any other circumstances, it's just louder than other sewing machines. It wouldn't keep me from buying one, and it has never kept me from using it. Thanks for checking out my channel, good luck!
Maybe try a stabilizing product on the lighter weight fabric. Quilters do that for things like appliqué work. Some folks even use telephone book pages in a pinch, which can be easily ripped away after sewing.
Other reviews also mention the loudness of the motor. One person who did a review said she has to wear ear plugs when using that machine. Maybe sailrite will switch to a quieter motor if more people mention the noise. I also wonder if that so called posi pin is really a good idea. I'm wondering if it will eventually developed slop in it, and start rattling around.
I don't think the motor is the issue, I think the mechanism of the machine overall is where the noise comes from (emphasis on "I think"). I think ear plugs might be a bit excessive. It's not that loud to me (although I have a long history of ear abuse). To each their own, but for me, the loudness of the machine is only a consideration for someone living/sewing in a small space, shared with others who might be sleeping or otherwise disturbed. Compared to a vintage domestic machine, it's loud. Compared to a blender, it's not so loud. Regarding the Posi-pin, I can only say that I used this machine hard for 2+ years without issue, and I found the Posi-pin to be convenient to use. I have an industrial machine I use more these days, but I wouldn't hesitate to recommend the Sailrite from a reliability standpoint, based on my experience with it. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thank you for this video. I do mainly small pouches and bags out of 1000d cordura, and tactical gear and backpack repair. Would you recommend this as a good first real sewing machine? I need something that can handle it as my garage sale special I was teaching myself on had a catastrophic failure, and the people at the local sewing machine store keep attempting to sell me a $1400 juki industrial I don't have the money or space for. Thank you for your time.
I would definitely recommend this machine for the kind of stuff you're sewing. It's not as smooth as some of my other machines are, but it has never hesitated to power through anything (reasonable) that I've thrown at it. Thanks for watching and commenting, and let me know if you have other questions!
I have the LS-1 Basic. It truly is a workhorse. Sounds a bit like a mule wagon, but for me, that's the least of my worries. My thoughts are this: If you want power for many layers, you don't care about the noise, you have minimal space( my #1 reason), it's your machine. For me, the cording channel beneath the left side feed should be re-machined or imagined. Firstly it mashes fiber flex upholstery cording which doesn't allow for a tight fit on the two plates being sewn together. You have to constantly push to the right to get a close fit and that's a little silly since my other machines allow you to go take a nap while cording is being sewn together. I'll use it when the client picks the thick upholstery or for leather, but other than that, not sure if this is the best purchase for a HOME sewing aficionado or a semi-pro upholsterer/ seamstress like myself.
I agree, I don't think this is the right machine for someone who needs either versatility for a very wide range of projects, or something specific to a particular type of sewing (i.e., leatherwork, upholstery). It is great for the kinds of projects I do (backpacks, messenger bags and duffels in heavy nylon fabrics) and for my space limitations. I've never tried cording/welting with it. In my "why do I have so many sewing machines?" video, I mention that the ONE sewing machine I would keep would be TWO sewing machines - my Sailrite, and my Singer 237 (non-walking-foot, vintage domestic machine). I could make just about anything I'll ever need with those two machines - but not with only one of them! Thanks for being part of my channel!
I have considered buying a “walking foot” for one of my two domestic machines (for sewing garments of heavy thick wool with leather “fittings” ) but seeing a real walking foot machine in action has pretty much convinced me that one of these attachable “walking feet» would be a waste of $35 to $45. Any thoughts on the matter?
Hi Jason. Great video. Thank you. You have a nice set up for your studio. The wall mount that is holding your bolt (s) of material is clever. We would like to do the same...the plaster walls may have something to say about it. Ha. One of your tools we are not familiar with are the black flat bar- weights on top of your workspace? Do they really work holding material? Thank you again for your detailed video. Peace. Stephen
Hi! I have a video on my channel (one or two before this one, I think) on how I made the fabric roll rack, in case you're interested. The fabric pattern weights are very helpful! You can find similar ones on Amazon. Some folks use scuba weights, large washers, etc., too. I find these weights to be more convenient, since they are consistently shaped and have handles. Thanks for watching!
About sewing lighter weight fabrics...I saw another video by Sailrite in which was sewn two layers of very light weight deco fabric very nicely. The instructions are to change the needle and thread to appropriate for the fabric...and also adjust the presser foot pressure and adjust the upper tension dial.
Yes, although I think what they are calling "lightweight" fabric isn't as lightweight as the fabrics I'm referring to. I think you can use this machine to sew light(ish) fabrics, but I don't think it does it as well as machines that are designed for the purpose - in the same way that machines like my Singer Featherweight, which sews a beautiful stitch on lighter fabrics, isn't the best choice for multiple layers of webbing, for example. I did a video on this with my Thompson, and as I put it in that video, it's like using a sledge hammer to drive finish nails. It works, but not that great. All that said, I'm NOT saying, "Don't buy this machine, it doesn't sew lightweight fabrics." I AM saying, "If you MOSTLY sew lightweight fabrics, there are machines that do that better than this one." Thanks for your input, and thanks for watching!
This inquiry was for a gentleman who will retire from a professional upholstery shop. In his home shop he wants to get set for doing part-time upholstery work so he's looking for something like the Sailrite with zig zag that will do the the upholstery work for both heavy applications and for slightly lighter. Thank you for your reply...and your video is very helpful, filmed well and the narration is easy to hear.
Hi, The reason I didn't do a side-by-side comparison between the Thompson and the Sailrite is they are almost identical. Without disassembling them and identifying metallurgical differences (which is beyond my ability), there isn't much to contrast between them. I think I mentioned in the video (it's been a while, sorry I don't remember!) but the updated reverse/stitch length lever and the Post-Pin engagement system are significant improvements on the Sailrite. Otherwise, if you blindfolded me, I couldn't tell you which one I was using! Let me know if you have other questions about the two. Maybe a side-by-side is a video I should make! Thanks for watching and commenting!
You're welcome! It's definitely louder than a typical home sewing machine, but unless you're sewing in the same bedroom your spouse is sleeping in or something, it shouldn't be a problem, and it's a great machine! Enjoy, and thanks for watching!
Hi Jason, Thanks for being upfront about this review I enjoyed the detail you went into. Looks like a great machine (me thinks maybe my next!!), I recently watched you make a winch cover which was great. You achieved a good symmetrical and smart look, how do you achieve that at the intersecting corners? I've had some problems achieving results as neat as yours, any help much appreciated. Best wishes from North Wales UK
Thanks Colin! Marking the seam allowances helps keep things consistent, that might be part of the symmetry. Some materials look better than others just by their nature, too. And, I could probably find dozens of things I've sewn that don't come out so good :) But seriously, I think having accurate measurements to begin with, then cutting and sewing accurately is a big part of it. If you haven't tried marking exactly where you want to sew, then sewing right on that marked line, give it a try and see if it helps. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Jason thanks for doing these vids.do you think the sailrite will sew leather veg tan for a wallet . is there one machine to sew it all.lol nylon to leather . im so happy to come across your channel iv been wanting to learn how to sew gear not quilts.
Hi John, I think the Sailrite would have no problem at all with making a leather wallet, provided the leather isn't too thick. Leather can vary quite a bit in toughness, too, so you might have to experiment a little. Definitely get leather needles. You might want to check out my video, "Why Do I Have So Many Sewing Machines?" where I get into the "one machine to rule them all" discussion a bit more. Thanks for watching, and feel free to contact me with questions!
nice video.... have you tried it with leather at all? i'm researching machine for sewing the uppers of shoes.. going to take a few classes in hand sewn shoes but thinking about machines for some construction... well, and repairing friends tents-- big reenactment group out this way
Hi David, I haven't used the Sailrite on leather, but I have no doubt it would work fine on something like shoe uppers. Some people have commented that the feed dogs will mark smooth leathers, so you might need to grind them down (and I think Sailrite may sell a ground feed dog, but I'm not sure). I sew leather bags for my day job, and the Sailrite seems just as capable as the industrials I use at work (in most respects - the foot lift isn't as high, for instance). Thanks for watching and commenting!
I sew my shoe uppers with a sailrite. It goes through leather quite well. I prefer to hand crank with the monster wheel. Perhaps you'll find someone for a test
Do you have a video on sewing that lightweight outdoor material? Ideal material? Other tricks? Thanks for the evenhanded review. I have a Janome, but it always gets messed up with webbing and such. I have been wishing after this.
I have an older video where I sewed some thinner materials on the Thompson Mini-Walker (the predecessor to this machine). In my video "Why Do I Have So Many Sewing Machines," I discuss why my choice of one sewing machines is actually TWO machines - the Sailrite and a vintage domestic machine (in my case, a Singer 237, for reasons I discuss in that video). Basically, I'm of the opinion that a walking-foot machine and a vintage domestic help cover all the bases, with a little overlap. Sailrite has at least one video on their channel about setting up an Ultrafeed to sew thinner material. I don't think it's an ideal machine for it, but it can be done. I hope that helps, let me know if you have other questions, and thanks for watching!
Ok, six years later, whats your thoughts on the machine now? Im getting ready to pull the trigger on the leatherworker set up. I know its basically the same machine with some power upgrades and a table. I do leatherworking and want to do more bags, ruck sacks, canvas versions, maybe some patio cushion covers for my mrs. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Hi! Not only do I still have this machine, but I ended up purchasing (at full price) a LSZ-1 with the WorkerB motor (which is now standard). I LOVE these machines. To be fair, for most of my day-to-day sewing, I tend to use my industrial Consew 206, but I also still regularly use the LSZ-1 (sometimes preferring it over the 206 for better speed control, sometimes because I need zig-zag). I don't use the LS-1 as much these days, purely because I just have too many machines. If a portable walking-foot machine fits your needs, this is the one. My only suggestion is unless you absolutely know that you will NEVER use zig-zag, I would at least consider getting the LSZ-1. With a smooth foot set it should be great for leather, and I believe you can buy the leatherworker-style table separately (or get the industrial-style table, or use the machine in a vintage Singer table). I hope that helps, thanks for the question and thanks for watching!
@@thejasonofalltrades thanks for the reply. I haven't had one need yet for the zigzag. I just know, if I go through the trouble of building up an LSZ-1 to match the leatherworker, I'll never use it! Having said that, if I buy the leatherworker I just know somebody will ask me to make a Bimini top or a dodger for their sail boat, lol. It's Murphy's law.
Thanks for review this machine. I have being watch instruction video's on Sailrite's youtube channel, it sound like the machines in there video make a more muffled noise. Would the case stand or model type (LSZ-1) have something to do with it?
The case, table or room could have an effect on the sound, and I'd guess that Sailrite has a bigger budget for microphones and editing than I do, LOL. I am planning for a video to compare the sound of this machine to some other object that people are familiar with (like a hair dryer, for example) so it will be easier for people considering the machine to know what to expect. It's loud compared to a typical domestic sewing machine, but it's not uncomfortable to use or anything. Thanks for your question, and thanks for watching!
Hi there, thanks for the vids!! I ran across a Thompson mini walker 83 series and thought how fun to have one and picked it up, would you happen to know if sailrite parts and assessories would fit it?
Hi! I'm not familiar with the 83 series, but many Sailrite parts and accessories fit the Thompsons that I'm familiar with. Customer support at Sailrite are very knowledgeable and familiar with the Thompson machines, so if you are looking to pick something up I'd check with them before purchasing. Good luck!
Good detailed vid. I'm new to sewing and i'm looking to buy my first machine. It looks like a primary reason the conventional Singer doesn't sew thicker material is a weaker motor, its this accurate? Would a larger more powerful motor on a conventional machine sew leather? Can you recommend a solid conventional machine that can on occasion sew leather and denim, or recommend some features to look for when looking for such a machine?
Hi, and thanks for watching my video! So, it isn't really the power of the motor that makes a "traditional" sewing machine not work as well for heavier materials (although more power can help in other ways). What makes the Sailrite - and other walking-foot machines - better is the walking foot design, which pulls the material MUCH more effectively. Pretty much any vintage machine should be capable of denim and at least upholstery weight leathers. Needle choice is important, and there are some tricks one can employ to improve feeding (see my "tip for sewing vinyl" video, for example). I pretty much stick to machines made before the early 1970s. They're simpler, more robust and less expensive than new machines. Most newer machines are cheaply made and have a huge number of stitches that would never be needed for the kinds of things I like to make. If you're new to sewing and want to learn, my best advice is to hit some thrift stores/garage sales/estate sales and find a vintage machine to start with. I see them all the time for under $50, and one of my favorites in my collection was $20 at a thrift store. Stick with names you recognize (Singer being the obvious one). Try to Google the model number if you can find it to see if it's a machine that is problematic, if there are replacement parts available, etc. If you can, plug it in and make sure it works. Even better than that is find out if any of your friends or family has an old machine they want to part with, will lend you or maybe can give you a quick lesson to get you started! I have a pair of pretty old videos on my channel called "sewing machine basics," you might want to check those out. Good luck, and let me know if you have any other questions! Jason
I don't know how many decibels it is, but I doubt that ear protection would be required. I would say it is not as loud as a typical blender, but louder than your dishwasher. Obviously those things vary a lot in loudness, too, but I'd say it falls somewhere in between. I only mention it because I sometimes start sewing at 5AM when I get up, before going to work, and if my wife is still sleeping I avoid using this machine at that time, whereas I can use one of my domestic machines without concern. Thanks for your question, and thanks for watching! Oh, and good idea to be mindful of protecting your hearing!!!
thejasonofalltrades Thank you for your prompt response. I look forward to watching all your videos. I think they will be very helpful for things I plan to make.
Thanks for the review. I’m seriously considering this as an upgrade from my Singer Quantum Stylist 9960 for making heavier wallets and such. One reviewer of this machine suggested ear protection while using. Do you find this machine loud enough to warrant ear protection? Thanks!
Hi, I'm so sorry for taking so long to reply. I think ear protection is WAY overkill. However, I've also done a lot of stupid stuff to my ears over the years, so maybe I'm not the best judge. I recently posted a video comparing the Sailrite to some other household items to try to demonstrate the noise level. It might help you to make a decision. ruclips.net/video/nripx6Am0-8/видео.html The upshot of it is, it's louder than a typical domestic sewing machine, but unless you're sewing in the same room as your sleeping spouse, I don't think it's an issue. Putting the machine into a vintage Singer sewing table or an industrial-style table seems to make it quieter, too. I hope that helps. The Sailrite is still one of my favorite machines, and is an indispensable part of my collection. The noise isn't even a consideration for me. Thanks for watching!
@@thejasonofalltrades No worries about the time to reply. Thank you for linking the video comparing the noise level to other household items. Very helpful!
Curious as to your thoughts on a Juki ddl 8700h. More of a beefy straight stitch machine but not a walking foot. Have you ever used one? Sorry this is on an older video but never too late to talk sewing!
Hi Nelson, I haven't used that particular Juki. My opinion, based on limited experience, is this: For the home/hobbyist sewist, I think the difference between a good vintage domestic machine and a non-walking-foot industrial is slim. You get a great deal more speed with the industrial (which can be good but can also be bad), but it takes a lot more space and is more complex in general. If you're doing some production and need more speed, it might be helpful, but if you're looking to sew heavier/more difficult materials better, I'd hold out for a walking foot. This is basically what happened to me with the Singer 20U - it didn't do what I needed to do any better than my domestic machines (but MUCH faster!). After getting the Sailrite, I sold the Singer 20U. My personal needs are better met by a walking-foot industrial - I use a very beat up Consew 206RB-1 as my primary machine now, and it's exactly the right machine for me. All that said, if a non-walking-foot machine is right for you, and you want an industrial one, Jukis are generally excellent machines. I hope that helps!
Do you think it's worth the couple hundred extra for the plus package? Or can I get away with using a lamp for lighting since the basic doesn't have a light? Been debating on whether or not I should get the basic or plus package! The carrying case looks good, but being that the machine is heavy I don't think I will be moving it around much!
Hi! So, my opinion is if you'd only be buying the Plus package for the light, I'd just buy the light separately for $40 (on Sailrite's site). I'm very intrigued by the case, but I do have occasions to move my machines. If you aren't going to be moving it around, the standard base should work well. I found that then machine fits in a vintage Singer sewing table, too, and those can be had cheap at thrift stores, so that might be a good option for you if you want a dedicated table that doesn't take up a lot of space.. By the way, this machine weighs about the same as my Singer 237 (which I took to a sewing class today!). It's heavy (around 37-38 pounds, I think) but not impossible. Thanks for your questions, and good luck! Either way I think you'll like the machine!
In my opinion, not really. Yes, with adjustments such as reducing the foot pressure and using a smaller needle, it will sew thin, lightweight material, I would only use it for that if I had nothing else. If you sew a lot of middle-to-heavier fabrics, and rarely sew very lightweight fabrics, and only have room in your life for one machine, then, sure. If you sew a lot of thin materials, this is not the right machine for that. Here's a video I made a few years ago that discusses this more thoroughly. ruclips.net/video/gRttaX2wWjI/видео.html I hope that helps, thanks for the question!
I know this is an older review video, but maybe this comment will help someone else. I have a LSZ-1 and there is a trick to sewing light weight fabric. The machine will do it and it does a good job of it. But you have to lower the foot pressure. Sometimes all the way down to almost nothing. The knob at the top of the pressure foot will allow you to adjust the down force. For quilting cloth I back this all the way off until the knob comes un-threaded then I give it 2 turns back in just to hold the spring in. I don't like sewing ultra light nylon but that is not down to bunching or pressure. But rather because I don't have the flat face foot and lower dogs. The dogs and foot are just to aggressive for nylon and leather. Sailrite does have a foot and dogs that will do the job but they are expensive and I have a Pfaff 1222 that does light weight nylon better than the Sailrite can anyway.
If you're sewing machine? Still turns the main shaft after you disconnect the clutch. Take the clutch. This is on a vintage machines. Take the clutch off the hand wheel off and put a little bit of oil on the bearings surface where the where the hand wheel goes and that will stop that from happening. Don't put a lot, just a couple of drops and if it still goes on just put it a couple more. That's it. Don't need any more than that. Just spin the hand wheel. It'll distribute the oil just fine and that's all you need to do and it should stop that every single vintage sewing machine I've ever had an issue with doing that. All it took was just a couple of drops of oil and you might have to do that once twice a year. Now on these newer machines i have no idea. All I deal with is vintage machines
I thought about buying a nice Sailrite 1 Plus (LSZ-1 ?) , I like making pouches and purses as gifts... I'd like to know more abt the hand crank Sailrite 1 Plus and what you might think of it, do you have any pointers please, plus Ive invested in a Goal Zero Yeti 1000 Lithium Portable Power Station, 1045Wh Silent Gas Free Generator Alternative with 1500W (3000W) and am wondering if it will power the Sailrite 1 Plus. I am thinking my backup plan to an emergency set up with using the hand crank part of the Sailrite 1 Plus purchase... Have you used the hank crank yet and what do you think of it please....
Hi, I have not used the hand crank option on this machine (it comes as part of the Monster Wheel option). However, I have no doubt that it would be very usable. The motor on this machine is not particularly powerful, it's basically a domestic sewing machine motor. Using the hand crank will be slower, and will mean that you will only have one hand available to position the work as you sew, but if you're not in a hurry it shouldn't be a problem. Thanks for your question, and good luck!
thejasonofalltrades I’d love to find a machine that has a removable sleeve like the Featherweight (FW) 222, so I could sew around a bag. I have a FW 66 red eye hand crank, a FW 15-91 and a FW 99 hand crank. I was looking for a used sewing machine that would sew leather, and tarp for around the homestead. Any pointers?
Most of the domestic free-arm machines that I know of would probably not be as capable as the machines you have. The one I can think of that might be good is the Pfaff 360. I use industrial cylinder-arm machines at work, and the ability to access hard-to-reach areas is nice, but at home I have always used flatbeds, and I've done OK most of the time. Your 15-91 should be capable of sewing reasonable thicknesses of leather and tarp material (if you're looking to sew really thick leather, then you need to look into sewing machines specifically made for that purpose), but upholstery thickness leather should be fine). I've sewn some very thick canvas tarp with my Thompson Mini Walker (the predecessor of the Sailrite Ultrafeed) and it breezed through it.
I have a question can i use this machine in repairing or making clothes I seen the part about you showing the thin cloth it takes and bundles it up I'm learning upholstery as well thx
Hi Joseph, You CAN use this machine to make or repair clothing, although it's not ideal for that use. If you're making something like jeans or other heavy fabrics, it could work quite well. It can be adapted to sew thinner materials, by using a smaller needle and reducing the foot pressure. My opinion is that it's not the right tool for lighter fabrics, though. A vintage domestic machine with a narrow foot will work FAR better, and they are available very affordably. If it's the only machine you have, and you don't have the space for another one or just need to do a small repair from time to time, you can make it work. For me, it's like using a framing hammer to pound in finishing nails - it works, but not really. I hope that helps, thanks for watching! By the way, I am right this second working on a video about choosing what sewing machine to buy, it might have some helpful information for you, so stay tuned!
I've oiled the machine with no change, and my Thompson PW500 sounds exactly the same. I have plans to do a video going into the noise of these machines in more depth - I just need the time to make it! Thanks for the question, and thanks for watching!
I have not tried one. My opinion on those machines, based mostly on ethics, is not a good one. My understanding of the situation is that Sailrite contracted with overseas manufacturers, who ripped off the design and start selling these cheap knock-off versions. There are some material advantages to the genuine Sailrite (it seems the knock-offs have shorter foot pedal cords, for example, and the Sailrite comes with quite a few extras). I've heard from some who have the knock off machines - some like them, some had to do some tuning to get them working well. My guess is they probably work just fine, but there is a reason there is so cheap. I occasionally see Thompson Mini-Walking Foot machines available on the used market for $300-350. That is the machine the Sailrite is based on, and is a fine machine if you can find one. Thanks for the question, and thanks for watching!
you never tryed a singer 306... smooth, quiet, rotary shutle and zigzag... and with a bigger motor is as strong as a ls1... made in 1950, the same belt type like the pfaff but new timing belts are availeble... and it can be retimed and adjust the needle bar height so it takes normal needles....
I'm aware of the 306, but you're correct, I've never tried one! It sounds like a great machine, but it still isn't a walking-foot machine, and I've found through experiences with MANY machines (I currently own 22) that a walking-foot machine really outperforms a non-walking-foot machine on the materials/projects I tend to use. A 306 is one of the machines I would likely buy if I found one available locally at a reasonable price, though! Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@thejasonofalltrades im'n not dealing alot with sewing machines, i'm doing electronics :) but i was almost buyed a sailrite, and one of my friends 83 years old 50 years fixing sewing machnes recomanded me to buy the most underated machine of them all the 306, she was born with 206x13 needles, so alot of people get discuraged to buy one, but with just a tweek on the needle height bar and the shuttle she uses the 15x1 needles.... they all need a big cleaning and oiling (2 people and 6 hours after she changed sound). with a plastic puley made over the original one boted with 3 screws and a sligltly longer belt she got a bit slower and alot more powerfull, with a 120 needle 20size treading poliester wee saw 8 layers of sumbrella marine fabbric (i bought if for that reason).... as i said comapred with the rotary shuttle zig zag pfaff she is alot more heavy duty... and even like this the guy told me that if i manage to break the cord belt inside he will eat it :) :) i get it that a walking foot machine has other advantages but he told me that if i ever need a machine over the 306 there is a 3 transport type one (don't remember the type) that does really heavy sewing ... just for laughs i payed 50 euro for the 306 and the heavier one costs like 100euro :)
I don't recall the max foot lift, that should be on Sailrite's website. Whether it can sew through 6-7 layers of leather depends on the leather - how thick is each layer, and how tough is the leather? This machine is certainly capable of sewing reasonable thicknesses of leather, but if you're trying to use it instead of a multi-thousand-dollar true leather working machine, you'll probably be disappointed. You might want to check out Stock and Barrel's couple of videos on the Tandy Stitchmaster, which is made by Sailrite and essentially has the same capabilities. He does a good job of showing what it can and can't do in leatherworking. I hope that helps, thanks for watching!
Hi Frank, I think there are three ways to consider your question - new vs new, used vs used, or new vs used. (Note: I'm not including the many Sailrite knock-off machines as an option. I have my own ethical position on those, and I question their quality, but at the moment I have no first-hand experience with them.) New vs new: Thompson no longer exists, and hasn't for some time. If you want a new machine, go with the Sailrite. Used vs used: This is more complicated. Newer Sailrite Ultrafeeds have a couple of significant improvements over the earlier ones, which are essentially identical to the Thompson PW-500 (it is the machine on which the Sailrite is based). The reverse/stitch length lever and the Posi-Pin system both make the newer machines much more user friendly. These features can be added to either a Thompson or an earlier Sailrite. So, if you find a used Thompson and a used early Sailrite priced the same, well, pick which color you like. If you find a newer Sailrite comparably priced (might be unlikely), I think the updated features make it the better choice. Used (Thompson) vs new (Sailrite): I think the Thompson is slightly - only slightly - better built. I can't support this with any evidence, but my example just feels a little more solid. It might be because it's green. That said, if we're not talking about price, I'd buy a new Sailrite over an old Thompson without hesitation. The new machine comes with the updated features I mentioned, plus several other accessories, plus a warranty, plus technical support from Sailrite. I've had mine for about 2.5 years, and I've used it harder than the average home sewing enthusiast will. I love it. If you're on a budget, AND IF you can find a Thompson on the used market in your area, it's a great choice. It will do anything the Sailrite will (they really are the same machine), and you can add the updated features later if you want to. However, I'm nearly constantly looking at used sewing machines and I think I've seen 3 Thompsons in the last 3-5 years. Your mileage may vary, but if you want to buy a machine immediately, a used Thompson might not be an option. I hope that helps, let me know if you have other questions! Thanks for watching!
Unfortunately, both of those lights were pretty old used lights I acquired over the years. The white one was a magnifying lamp, probably available from places like Uline (and, I presume, Amazon), and the brown one was a combination of a circular fluorescent bulb and a large incandescent bulb. I've since gotten rid of them both and replaced them with cheap Amazon desk lamps. Thanks for the question, and thanks for watching!
Hi! All of my machines (other than the Sailrite) are vintage machines, pre-1970. The white/grey one is a Pfaff 260, I think circa the 1950s. It is a beautiful machine, and sews great. It's handled some pretty heavy vinyl, but not nearly as well as the Sailrite does. I hate to say it, but I don't think there is a machine that is good for "all material." At this point, I have 8 machines, and if I had to get down to an absolute minimum, I'd have to have at least two (the Sailrite and my Singer 237 would probably be the two). The Sailrite is FAR better than any of my domestic machines (and even better than the Singer 20-33 industrial I used to have), but it's not great for thin or delicate materials. The Singer 237 (for example) is capable of sewing heavier fabrics, but it's much more of a struggle than with the Sailrite. The good news is, depending on where you live, vintage domestic sewing machines are usually pretty inexpensive. So if you need the capability to sew heavier material, spend your money on the Sailrite, and try to find a good pre-1970 machine to sew your more delicate items. I plan to do a video about my current collection of sewing machines, so keep an eye out for that, it might help you decide what machines might work best for you. Thanks for your question, and thanks for watching!
Thank you for your time, I used to sew with my kenmore machine since I graduated as a Fashion designer, but I was working as stylist for many years. Now I want to start to sew my creations. I enjoy use different materials like leather and plastic. You really makes me feel that I need that machine when I saw your video ja ja, Thank you again
Hi, and sorry for the delay in replying! In short, YES. Particularly if you need a machine to handle thick layers as a supplement to another machine, I think the Sailrite is an excellent choice. Thanks for watching!
The Sailrite Ultrafeed Portable Walking Foot machine has the same base dimensions as my vintage Singer machines (201, 237, etc. - some other models are different). I have an old Singer domestic sewing table that one of my machines came in, and the Sailrite drops right in. It will NOT fit into an industrial table with an opening for an industrial machine head (generally speaking). I think it is best to think of the Sailrite Ultrafeed as a domestic sewing machine with the walking foot of an industrial machine that has been scaled down. It is NOT an industrial machine. I love my Sailrite, but the advantage it has over an industrial walking foot machine is its compact size and portability. If you don't need that portability, a full-size, truly industrial head might be a better choice. I hope that helps, let me know if you have other questions!
Would you suggest this machine for leather? I also design and sew backpack and have only used denim so far with a standard household Singer machine but I want to move to leather.
It depends on what you mean by "leather." If you want to use lighter-weight leather (like auto or home upholstery, that kind of thing), it will work fine. It's not designed for thick, vegetable-tanned leather (like for belts, thick straps, etc.). The main advantage of this machine, compared to your Singer, is the walking foot makes it feed difficult or thick materials MUCH better. I have plans to shoot a video on leather sewing as soon as I can get to it, so keep an eye out for that! Thanks for watching!
@@babysleep2529 It really depends on what you mean by "leather." If you intend to sew mostly heavier leathers, then possibly. If you occasionally sew leather and it's more of the thickness you might find in a leather jacket or upholstery, any walking-foot machine should be fine. I haven't seen or used the Stitch Master one, but my understanding is it is intended to sort of be an entry-level leatherworker's sewing machine, and might not be best for someone who does a wide range of sewing (or at least not worth the extra cost if you're not a leather worker, per se).
@@thejasonofalltrades Thank you! Yesterday I bought a long arm walking foot Omega machine with monster wheel from a Quebec seller on ebay. I think it will be good for what I need. I didn't want to pay duties from the US. I'm excited to get on these projects. Curious to know what types of handbags you sew? Do you work for a company or are these your own?
You just have to apply a drop of oil to the various oiling points from time to time, probably once before you start using it for the day unless you're using it more than average. Sailrite has a video version of their manual in a series of RUclips videos if you want to learn more. Thanks for watching!
What little auto upholstery work I've done would be easily done by this machine, I think. The throat space isn't huge, but you can cram stuff in there if needed. LOL your cat sounds as helpful as mine! (If you haven't seen it, this is cat "help" at its finest - ruclips.net/video/YDMgEiyPkVM/видео.html ) Thanks for watching and commenting!
The Sailrite and the Thompson both use 135x17 needles. I think I have size 18 in the machines at the moment. I almost always use size V-69 nylon thread for the nylon fabrics I use. Sailrite has a chart with helpful needle size information on their website. Thanks!
The thread in the 237 was also V-69 nylon. I'll have to take a look at the needle, I don't recall what is in there at the moment. Probably a Singer 110/18.
Was sewing with a Ls-1 machine yesterday it started sewing SLOW and then completely quit sewing all together Sailrite tech was not there it was late afternoon and I could not get help with the problem. Have you ever had this problem and how was it fixed I am assuming I can reach them on Monday. But just wondering if you have had that happen.
Hi, I haven't had that issue. It sounds to me like an electronics issue, perhaps something with the motor, but I'm just guessing. Does the machine turn freely by hand?
@@thejasonofalltrades yes it does turn freely by hand and just before it stopped altogether it just slowed down and then when I push the peddle nothing BUT the guy that works with me said he can hear a faint buzz @ the motor when I press the foot control.
@@thejasonofalltrades I sure will they will call tomorrow from tech support hopefully it si somethign we can fix over the phone we need it to finish a job. I do have a Consew we can dig out but hopping we can get this to work. We use pre wound bobbins and I have never wound a bobbin on it hoping maybe I might have moved the bobbin winder or somethign I will know more tomorrow when I get back I watched some videos I have a couple things to check
Whenever you call a company and can’t get help when you call customer service, just select the option “buy” or “pay” and someone will pick up right away. It’s that way will all companies . That’s how I get through the voicemail maze.
Sorry! A "Bar Tack" is a reinforcing stitch used in high stress areas. You might find them at the corner of a pocket on a pair of jeans, for instance. It is typically made by sewing a straight stitch, then sewing a zig-zag back and forth over that line of stitches. There are specifications for things like military equipment, parachutes, etc., that will define how many stitches per inch, how many zig-zags, how wide, etc., but for making bags and similar gear, you probably don't need to be that specific. If you don't have a zig-zag machine, many of us just straight-stitch back and forth several times to accomplish the task. It might not be technically as strong or effective, but usually is good enough. I hope that helps! Thanks for watching!
Hi, In terms of machine capability, virtually any sewing machine can sew ripstop nylon just fine. A non-walking-foot machine would be best. However, a paraglider wing is obviously a critical safety item. If you aren't a certified rigger, I would strongly advise you not to try to repair one without specific training or an experienced rigger advising you. I hope that helps, good luck!
Hi, Short answer: yes! I've used this machine by far the most of all of my machines (currently 11 of them) in the year that I've had it. Other than the one mysterious broken spring in the "I broke my Sailrite" video, which was easily replaced and didn't affect the machine's function, I've had zero complaints. Thanks for your question, and thanks for watching!
Have you tried sewing fabric with sequins or beaded fabrics? If not, could you? I do a lot of sewing for cosplay and theatre costumes and would like to know if machine can handle those fabrics. BUT BE WARNED!! Do NOT get fabric where the sequins or beads are glued on. Only try sewing with fabric that has sequins/beads SEWN on. Even dried fabric glue will ruin a machine. It gunks up on needle and wreaks havoc. I recently did $200 damage to a machine from that glue. That glue warning also applies to iron on interfacing, iron on fabric binders like stitch witchery, anything iron on basically. Please let me know if you try fabric with sequins or beads. Thank you.
I have not sewn anything with sequins. I checked with my wife (she sews, too, but mostly quilts) and she doesn't have any sequin fabric around. You might send an email to Sailrite to see if they have any input. I'd say that thinner fabrics are not what this machine is best at. I have a video on my channel where I used my Thompson on a variety of thin and stretchy fabrics with varied results, you might want to take a look at that one.
I have the LSZ1 Sew N Go Bundle and it is not this loud with the Servo Motor.. I actually never even tried the motor that was on it when it arrived and probably never will unless I need to use it remotely.. Great Comparison video I also looked at the Knock off CLones and just didn't think it was a good idea.. When I saw people using the parts from Sailrite on the Clones that was a good enough reason for me.. Also watch Sailrites video on the comparison. Those machines are not made well nor are they made as sturdy as the Sailrite Machines...Thanks for the VIdeo..
Hi! Yes, depending on what you mean by "leather." If you want to sew horse tack, you probably want a dedicated leather working sewing machine. If you want to make wallets or other items from relatively thin leather, this machine would work great, and Sailrite now sells a smooth foot set to prevent marking leather as well. I hope that helps, thanks for watching!
Hi, It's definitely louder than a standard domestic sewing machine, but a clutch-motor industrial is probably louder. There are other advantages to a portable walking foot besides moving (I've moved 7 times in the last 10 years, by the way - three of those moves more-or-less cross country). I've managed to squeeze an industrial into my space at home, but I've had to make some compromises to do it. And I'll still use the portables even with an industrial available to me. Sometimes it's just a matter of convenience. I have plans for a video to help more accurately describe the loudness of this machine, since saying "it's loud" is pretty subjective. I think it's an important consideration if you sew in a small home when others are sleeping, but otherwise I personally don't find it objectionable. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@thejasonofalltrades Thanks for replying. I have neighbors next to and below me so a loud machine would not work. I have been around clutch motor machines and they were a little louder than the household types not nearly as loud as what I see in the videos of the Sailrites. Maybe you can get a cheap dB meter and do a comparison. Would be interesting. I would maybe try to rig a more quiet motor on the back of the Sailrite or see if you can set up a servo motor on top somehow. But, there is still a question in my mind of whether a lot of noise is coming from inside the machine itself.
I strongly suspect the noise is mostly from the machine and not the motor, although I honestly haven't tried to find that out for sure. If your neighbors would be bothered by you using a hair dryer, or a spice grinder/coffee grinder, then they might be bothered by this. It's really hard to convey relative levels of sound on a video (and most people wouldn't know what X decibels would compare to), but it's only loud for a sewing machine. It's definitely not a chain saw! It's unfortunate that there aren't showrooms where you can try these out before buying.
Recommendation: make a video about 1) all these heavy duty fabrics that you use and know about, their properties, their uses etc 2) sewing threads, their gauges, their materials, properties etc
My current collection is: The Sailrite (duh!) Thompson Mini Walker PW-500 Singer 237 Singer Featherweight Pfaff 260 Pfaff 360 (the flatbed version of the 260) At work we use Pfaff 1245s. They are beasts.
thejasonofalltrades Do you sew professionally at work? Also, I have a sewing question. I'm new to sewing and I am going to purchase the Sailrite. I will be sewing canvas and thicker nylon. My question is, what keeps the stitches from just unraveling at the end? It seems that you sew as far as your going and lift the presser foot and just snip the threads...
Hi Chris, I've been sewing as a hobby for the last 5-plus years, and I recently started sewing professionally. I work for a marine canvas shop, making boat covers and that kind of stuff. Regarding the stitches coming unraveling at the end, that's a really good observation! You are correct, if you don't do something to prevent it, that will happen. (If your thread tension is correct, along with a few other factors, it won't happen very easily, but it can unravel.) The usual method is to start sewing, reverse for several stitches, then resume sewing forward again. This back and forth sewing over the same spot is usually enough to lock the stitch. Depending on where the seam in question will end up in a finished piece, you don't necessarily have to do it - if the end of the piece you are sewing is getting sewn into another seam, for example - but it's not a bad habit to just do it every time. In the sewing demos in this video, I didn't do it, because I wasn't actually sewing anything. I have an older, 2-part video on my channel called Sewing Machine Basics you might want to check out, it has some good information for someone just getting started. Also, Sailrite's RUclips channel has some great info, and you also might want to check out Alexander Dyer's channel. Thanks for your questions, thanks for watching, and good luck!
I have the LSZ-1 and I've done bartacking with it. I added the monster wheel upgrade (among others), and built a dedicated bench that the MDF platform drops down into. The monster wheel has a lot of inertia and made the table shake once it got up to speed. I was thinking about charging people to ride the table when I wound bobbins before I built the dedicated bench. The zig zag is indispensable the first time you happen to need it. In the absence of a dedicated bartacker (which I'd probably trade a certain amount of back alley favors to have), the Sailrite does an awesome job. The only "wish list" item I'd like to have is a dedicated bobbin winder for large thread, but I'm intent on upgrading to the Fabricator, too, and that has one. I even got a "above the needle" light for it (but it's not something that Sailrite sells). Let me know if you're interested in that and I'll shoot you some pictures. It takes some careful wire routing to keep it out of the mech but I much prefer it over the mag mount light that everyone seems to like. Assuming you haven't done it yet, go through it once, clean it out and oil it really well on all the contact points and that cuts the noise in half. Also, you can turn the foot tension down to get that thin stuff to go without bunching, but it's a little bit of a hindrance to switch back and forth (especially with how finicky mechanicals can be).
Hi, I haven't personally used any of the knock-off machines like the Barracuda. I have a well-documented negative opinion about the knock-off machines in general, primarily on ethical grounds. This is something I'm planning to cover in an upcoming video. In general, based on my current information, I understand that the other portable walking-foot machines on the market are all illicitly profiting from "stealing" the Sailrite design. For me, it's worth spending my money on the real deal. However, we all have budgets. I would suspect that the knock-off machines would probably function fine, although I'd also suspect their quality assurance to be less stringent, so there might be an increased chance of getting a faulty unit, and almost certainly poor customer support. That's my two cents in a nutshell. Keep in mind, this is just my opinion. Thanks for the question, and thanks for watching!
The Pfaff 1222 is "sort of" a walking foot machine. It's more like a standard, non-walking-foot machine with an additional walking "toe" added on. I've never used one, but I wouldn't doubt that it works very well. I suspect, however, that it would not be as effective on really thick materials, particularly at transitions between thinner and thicker parts, because unlike a true walking foot, the presser foot doesn't lift up - it just sort of bounces up and down when sewing. To my knowledge, the Thompson Mini Walker is the first portable "true" walking foot, and that's the machine the Sailrite is based on. However, I don't know everything yet, so I could be wrong :) Thanks for watching and commenting!
Had one didn't like it one bit Don't like the foot lifter at the top.Too loud. Rather have a knee lifter .Rather have a 206 rb.The bed of the machine is too short.
Hi Linda, I addressed some of this on another comment of yours, but for the benefit of someone reading this who doesn't see the other video: Comparing this machine to a 206RB (which I also have) is like comparing a van to a moving truck. The 206 has much more generous throat space, and is in an integrated table providing much more space for your project. It would be extremely difficult to use on your dining room table, though. The Sailrite Ultrafeed is a compromise between size and function, and I've found mine to function amazingly well. I sew for a living and have used at least a dozen different industrial machines. I've yet to use one that will sew something that the Sailrite couldn't also sew. It took me some time to get used to the foot lift on the top. Now I often instinctively reach for that spot on my other domestic machines. To me, the location of the lever is a trivial thing, and there are similar differences between many of my other machines. I agree that the Ultrafeed is surprisingly loud for a domestic machine. I've been planning a video to accurately illustrate how loud it is, because for someone living in a small, shared space, or needing to sew while others are sleeping, it might be a consideration. That said, it's not like running a chainsaw in your apartment. I appreciate your input; you have some valid points, and we can't all like the same things all the time! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Hi, Honestly, comparing any modern sewing machine to machines from pre-1970 is not a fair comparison. Nothing is manufactured as robustly as things used to be, whether we're talking chainsaws, cars or sewing machines. To some extent, this possibly is a result of greediness, making the product as inexpensively as possible to maximize profit. On the other hand, it's quite wasteful, to use, say, 30% more material than is needed to make a component, so engineering a product that is made of only the amount of metal (or labor, or whatever) required to do the job for a reasonable lifespan could be a reasonable adaptation. The Sailrite Ultrafeed is a tool, and the manufacturing processes used in its manufacture seem, to me, to be more than adequate to produce a tool that functions perfectly in its intended application. It's not smooth like a 237, or a Singer 201, or an older Pfaff, or a Bernina (not by a long shot). However, I use my Ultrafeed far more than any of those other machines. I suppose Sailrite could produce the Ultrafeed at a finish level of something like a 1960s Bernina, but it would probably cost $5000. The Sailrite is like an old farm truck. Not the most elegant thing, maybe rides rough, maybe a little noisy - but when you need a truck, you need a truck. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Great review however depending on the project you are doing you are obviously going to make adjustment and when the right adjustments are made on the sailrite it can easily sew the lightest of fabric such as what you are sewing at the time frame 9:20 just as well as the other machine. The sailrite demonstration explains the adjustments needed to sew lighter material in this video ruclips.net/video/I8K-XBMWDlw/видео.html
Hi, and thanks! I am aware that the Sailrite can be adjusted to sew thinner materials. I've talked about this more in some of my other videos, but my point is not that the Sailrite can't sew thinner materials, it's just that it's not necessarily the right machine for that job. For example, I can sew pretty thick layers of Cordura, webbing, etc. with my Singer 237 (although it is similarly not the best for that job), then go straight to 1.1 oz silnylon without out changing anything (maybe a slight tension adjustment, but that's it). I've been using the Sailrite Ultrafeed for about two years now, and it is indispensable to me, I use it far more than any of my other machines. However, when I sew really thin materials (as I did recently in my repairing of my water bottle holder, see the recent video), it is FAR easier for me to switch to one of my vintage domestic machines than it is to set up the Sailrite. In that project, I actually switched back and forth between my Singer 237 and the Sailrite a few times for various reasons. If you only have room for one machine, and the majority of your sewing is heavier materials, the Sailrite is hard to beat. If you occasionally sew really thin stuff, I imagine it can be made to work quite well. However, I still don't think it's the right tool for that job. Your mileage may vary! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Hi, This is directly from Sailrite's website on the LSZ-1 (the zig-zag model): "The presser foot features a built-in welting tunnel for sewing piping up to 5/32" and a needle positioning lever moves the needle left, right and center so you can sew marine zippers without changing the foot." Are you having an issue with yours, or is there some other reason you believe it doesn't do cording?
Jeff, I feel like you need to find a positive outlet for whatever sadness or frustration you are experiencing. I don't know why you feel the need to harass me in the comments on my videos, or why you have such apparent loathing for Sailrite, but your vitriol isn't doing anything to help you. If there is something I can say to help you, I'd love to, but I'm at a loss, since you have only cast out insults without providing any actual information about what you are so upset about. Maybe there is someone in your life you can talk to. Good luck, man, I wish you well. Please stop with the unnecessary negative comments.
I know this is an older video but I feel that you have your sailrite set up wrong for light fabrics this might help ruclips.net/video/I8K-XBMWDlw/видео.html
Hi Jack, I appreciate the link! I'm actually familiar with this (I watch a lot of Sailrite's videos). My position is not that the Ultrafeed can't sew lighter fabrics, it's that it's not really designed for that, and many other machines do it much better. The same works the other direction; the Ultrafeed can sew things that a typical domestic drop-feed machine can also sew, but the Ultrafeed does it much, much better. I can't remember if I made this analogy in this video or another one, but to me, using the Ultrafeed (or really any walking-foot sewing machine) to sew lightweight fabrics is like using a framing hammer to tap in finishing nails; sure, you can do it, but it's not the right tool for that job. The other issue for me is, since I'm fortunate to have multiple machines, I find it much more efficient to use a machine that is already good at/set up for sewing lightweight fabrics, rather than making adjustments to an Ultrafeed. For someone who ONLY owns an Ultrafeed, this would be a different case. If one were to ask my opinion, though, I would not recommend an Ultrafeed to someone who ONLY sews lightweight fabrics, or even someone who only rarely needs to sew heavier fabrics. It is a machine that is specifically designed to excel at medium to heavy fabrics (like marine canvas and sailcloth) and light leathers, not lightweight fabrics. I should also point out that when I talk about lightweight materials, I'm usually referring to things like 1.1oz silnylon or other "ultralight" fabrics used for outdoor gear, not the typical household or apparel fabric such as what is used in the Sailrite video you linked to. It's possible that my narrow experience and focus could lead to some confusion, sorry about that! Thanks for sharing your thoughts, and thanks for watching!
@thejasonofalltrades not a problem, and what you say makes perfect sense. I am getting into sailing, and making as much of my own gear is a big bonus for me. In my past hobbies, I enjoy it more when I can make and modify my own gear. For me personally, the sailrite machine makes more sense because I would be sewing heavier fabrics and would rarely be sewing lighter fabrics, so it be worth setting it up for that if needed over buying a singer or brother. Although singer and brother make very good entry level machines that won't break the bank... ( know that from years of learning to sew from family) Anyways thank you for replying.
I'm sorry to tell you my friend. Sail right boght a Chinese machine and upgrade it with their own parts. Not the other way. Sail right is the knock off of the Chinese not the other way... That's why you see identical models... They are all based on the cheap Chinese machine
Hi, I want to start off by saying that I am VERY interested in ANY evidence to support your claim. Many others have made the same claim, and not a single one has ever responded to my request for any backing evidence, so this is your chance to be the first! A fairly large number of people have bought Sailrite machines based on my recommendation, and I don't want to recommend them if the information I have is incorrect, so it is very important to me if you can back up your claim! So I am asking you; on what evidence do you base your claim? How did you come to this conclusion? My prediction is you either will not respond, or you will not provide any supportive information, as this is what has happened in every other case where someone has made this claim to me. Please prove me wrong.
Chinese make cheap knock offs of many great products and sewing machines are no different. What SailRite did is take a great proven machine and make it the way it was intended to be made; that is with quality parts. Chinese Communist Party copies everything produced in capitalist societies and cheapen the crap out of it and pretend it’s all the same, which it’s not! They’ve done that with. Water softener valves you see online and internal combustion engines., etc. SailRite is a quality product.
It's definitely louder than a standard domestic sewing machine. Depending on your situation, it could be a deal breaker, but if you have a chance to check one out in person, I wouldn't rule it out prematurely. These machines are pretty awesome. Thanks for watching and commenting!
You can tell Sailrite that your use of these machines just sold me on one. Promotional dollars well spent - and thank you for providing such relevant content.
Thank you, Ben!
For the record, I've been using mine for about a year and a half now, and I still love it! I have an upcoming project video that I could not have done without it.
Enjoy your machine, and thanks for watching!
Awesome. I've been eyeing these machines for a little over a year, but I have a complicated travel bag project on deck that has sealed the deal. Thanks for helping to demystify sewing and for making my projects more manageable.
I have had the LSZ1 for 13 years now and your review was on point and quite fair. Good job !!!
I just got a Thompson PW-301 and it seems very similar but doesn't seem as loud as this video. Is yours loud?
13 years? Tell me more. What do you use it for? How often do you use the machine? Any maintenance issues? Tips or tricks? Recommended accessories? Thanks in advance.
That is a good review. I like how you included some comparisons with other machines.
Thanks, man!
Thanks, I recently bought the LSZ-1 and you have confirmed my good choice. I have gotten into making handbags and my Baby Lock machine I use for quilting was not what I needed for heavy materials and bulky seams. I'm glad to know you like the machine too.
Roberta L. Jones I have the LSZ-1 that I bought about 4 years ago. I use mine when I make leather wallets. You can be assured yours will feed whatever you put under the presser foot... within reason. Don't cram a mass a material under it and expect a great stitch... but it still may surprise you. All the necessary information you need to keep it tuned up and working correctly.
Please take some time on scraps sewing in order to get used to sewing with a very aggressive feed system. This is also the reason as he stated, this is not very suitable for thinner material. I use mine for leather and canvas... pretty much everything else I use my "green machine", a 70's Kenmore.
Buy a good assortment of needles, other than leather, I have found the "serv 7" needles seem to be the best all around needles. The leather needles can't be beat or compared to any leather needle you have ever used. I have made Stingray covered wallets and several bags... Stingray is very hard to sew with a machine, but my Sailrite handles it like a champ... Real Stingray, not embossed veg tan crap.
Enjoy your Sailrite, and watch the Sailrite videos on their RUclips channel about the machine.
@@david78212 Where do you purchase the Serv & needles ?
Pressured Prepper they are just Shertz needles places that sell them should have them, Sailrite has them.
@@david78212 Thanks I have Schmetz they work well...
Excellent review and comparisons. That fact that you are still using it so much is a great testimonial about that machine. Their website also offers very good support for all types of sewing projects.
I also bought the LS-1 2 years ago and I did not knew how to sew. I learned through youtube videos and I'am now doing mobile auto auphosltery with this machine, I can take it anywhere. Great review Jason you did there. I haven't tried sewing carpet on this machine, maybe is not strong enough. I have also had the needle bar come out of place a few times when i put too much vinyl together with foam and piping (plastic tube) when sewing seat covers.
I've seen a few of your videos over the years, but your cats made me subscribe.
I’m thinking about buying the ls-1 to make my Therapy Dog vest, I use a canvas like material called duck cloth, I put two layers together and then sew on bias binding I get from sailrite
I've had an LS-1 for about 11 years now and am very pleased with it. I sew yurt covers with 10 oz Sunforger canvas and the LS-1 sews it with ease. It is a great reliable machine but, if I had it all to do over again I would have gotten the LSZ-1. The addition of the zig-zag stitch expands the possibilities of what can be sewn. The Monster wheel allows me to use the machine where there is no power (North Dakota prairie making repairs).
Thank you for this review! I'm curious, I understand that the noise level is quite loud, but how would you rate the vibration? I'm not so much worried about the noise in my apartment as much as the vibration into the floor that might disturb my downstairs neighbors.
Hi! In the last couple of years, Sailrite has developed a new motor system (called WorkerB) that is now standard on the Ultrafeed machines. This has completely solved the noise issue, while also providing a significant power increase and improved speed control.
That said, whether in a table, the portable case or the wooden base, I have never detected any vibration using an Ultrafeed (I own two now and have used several). I can't imagine a circumstance where the vibration from this machine would transfer to a neighbor.
I hope that helps! Thanks for watching!
Excellent review, and thanks for propping that excellent Singer 237. I like the Sail-Rite machines for what they can do, but I love my Singer 223, which is very similar to your 237 there. Beautiful Japanese made quality and smooth as it gets. I plan on getting a Sail-Rite LSZ-1 by this summer after seeing a friends in action with some sail making. Still, my 223 goes through 8 layers of dacron or 8 to 10 layers of 12oz duck canvas like a hot knife through butter. However, it lacks a walking foot.
Hi, Jason, I stumbled upon your review while looking at used machines and seeing another brand of portable walking foot machine. I am definitely interested in the Sailrite as I want to start making bags and purses. I appreciated your thorough review and demonstration in this video. But I must confess that I was delighted to see that you also use a Singer 237. My 237 was given to me by my mother in 1966 and has been my workhorse, and I wouldn't give it up for anything. I do like, though, the extra power and walking foot of the Sailrite. So it goes on my "some day" list.
Oh, and btw - love your kitties, especially the black one!
Hi Susan,
I'm glad you found my channel!
I love my 237, and the fact that it uses the same Class 15 Bobbin as the Sailrite is nice, too. Since my Sailrite isn't a zig-zag model, I can easily switch a project to the 237 if I need to zig-zag something, and don't even have to wind a different bobbin for it.
I've been using the Sailrite for over 2 years now, and I still love it.
And thanks re: the cats! Bobbin (the black one) is my boy - if he hears me talking to the camera, he knows it's time to come star in a video lol!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
PS - another video of mine you might enjoy is "Why Do I Have So Many Sewing Machines."
I agree. Their customer service is outstanding!
Thanks for the vid. I've been very curious about sailrite machines and it's so good to see a legit review on one. I've been watching craigslist for industrial machines but it's looking more like I'll go with a new machine. I certainly know it will be a walking foot machine. I want to do things like add webbing and center tie outs to canvas tarps and attempt a canvas tent possibly. An apprenticeship with Tentsmiths would be a dream come true. If only.:-)
I am now at that point. I have an industrial Singer 211 G which I can't bring to the boat, and there are always adjustments, my portable is a tiny singer simple machine. Great review. Thank you for mentioning that the other portable walking foot machines are basically knock offs of this. The other surprise though was the noise factor. I have seen tons of their videos , and never thought the machines were noisy.Looking forward to getting to know your videos. Thank you
Hi Elliott,
I made a video about the noise level of the Sailrite that you might want to look for. I've found myself repeating the same thing; if you're sewing in the same room (or boat) another person is currently sleeping in, that could be problematic. Under any other circumstances, it's just louder than other sewing machines. It wouldn't keep me from buying one, and it has never kept me from using it.
Thanks for checking out my channel, good luck!
Good overview of types of machines. Basically, you need two if you do heavy and light for best results. Cute helpers.
Love your channel, So happy I found it! Thank you Thank you Thank you, your content kicks ass - Tutorials are awesome!!
Thanks so much!
I added the workhorse motor to my LS1 and it is a game changer.
best review I have seen so far. thanks!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Maybe try a stabilizing product on the lighter weight fabric. Quilters do that for things like appliqué work. Some folks even use telephone book pages in a pinch, which can be easily ripped away after sewing.
Other reviews also mention the loudness of the motor. One person who did a review said she has to wear ear plugs when using that machine. Maybe sailrite will switch to a quieter motor if more people mention the noise. I also wonder if that so called posi pin is really a good idea. I'm wondering if it will eventually developed slop in it, and start rattling around.
I don't think the motor is the issue, I think the mechanism of the machine overall is where the noise comes from (emphasis on "I think"). I think ear plugs might be a bit excessive. It's not that loud to me (although I have a long history of ear abuse). To each their own, but for me, the loudness of the machine is only a consideration for someone living/sewing in a small space, shared with others who might be sleeping or otherwise disturbed. Compared to a vintage domestic machine, it's loud. Compared to a blender, it's not so loud.
Regarding the Posi-pin, I can only say that I used this machine hard for 2+ years without issue, and I found the Posi-pin to be convenient to use. I have an industrial machine I use more these days, but I wouldn't hesitate to recommend the Sailrite from a reliability standpoint, based on my experience with it.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thank you for this video. I do mainly small pouches and bags out of 1000d cordura, and tactical gear and backpack repair.
Would you recommend this as a good first real sewing machine? I need something that can handle it as my garage sale special I was teaching myself on had a catastrophic failure, and the people at the local sewing machine store keep attempting to sell me a $1400 juki industrial I don't have the money or space for.
Thank you for your time.
I would definitely recommend this machine for the kind of stuff you're sewing. It's not as smooth as some of my other machines are, but it has never hesitated to power through anything (reasonable) that I've thrown at it.
Thanks for watching and commenting, and let me know if you have other questions!
I have the LS-1 Basic. It truly is a workhorse. Sounds a bit like a mule wagon, but for me, that's the least of my worries. My thoughts are this: If you want power for many layers, you don't care about the noise, you have minimal space( my #1 reason), it's your machine. For me, the cording channel beneath the left side feed should be re-machined or imagined. Firstly it mashes fiber flex upholstery cording which doesn't allow for a tight fit on the two plates being sewn together. You have to constantly push to the right to get a close fit and that's a little silly since my other machines allow you to go take a nap while cording is being sewn together. I'll use it when the client picks the thick upholstery or for leather, but other than that, not sure if this is the best purchase for a HOME sewing aficionado or a semi-pro upholsterer/ seamstress like myself.
I agree, I don't think this is the right machine for someone who needs either versatility for a very wide range of projects, or something specific to a particular type of sewing (i.e., leatherwork, upholstery). It is great for the kinds of projects I do (backpacks, messenger bags and duffels in heavy nylon fabrics) and for my space limitations. I've never tried cording/welting with it.
In my "why do I have so many sewing machines?" video, I mention that the ONE sewing machine I would keep would be TWO sewing machines - my Sailrite, and my Singer 237 (non-walking-foot, vintage domestic machine). I could make just about anything I'll ever need with those two machines - but not with only one of them!
Thanks for being part of my channel!
Oh, and I just checked, and Sailrite has a cording foot available on their site for "larger" cord. You might want to check that out.
Sailrite is my dream sewing machine.But singer heavy duty one of the best option.I use heavy duty and its working pretty good
I definitely want one and have for awhile.
I have considered buying a “walking foot” for one of my two domestic machines (for sewing garments of heavy thick wool with leather “fittings” ) but seeing a real walking foot machine in action has pretty much convinced me that one of these attachable “walking feet» would be a waste of $35 to $45.
Any thoughts on the matter?
Perhaps a bit late for the original post, but for anyone else considering buying an aftermarket walking foot, don't do it, it's a waste of money.
Hi Jason. Great video. Thank you. You have a nice set up for your studio. The wall mount that is holding your bolt (s) of material is clever. We would like to do the same...the plaster walls may have something to say about it. Ha. One of your tools we are not familiar with are the black flat bar- weights on top of your workspace? Do they really work holding material? Thank you again for your detailed video. Peace.
Stephen
Hi!
I have a video on my channel (one or two before this one, I think) on how I made the fabric roll rack, in case you're interested.
The fabric pattern weights are very helpful! You can find similar ones on Amazon. Some folks use scuba weights, large washers, etc., too. I find these weights to be more convenient, since they are consistently shaped and have handles.
Thanks for watching!
About sewing lighter weight fabrics...I saw another video by Sailrite in which was sewn two layers of very light weight deco fabric very nicely. The instructions are to change the needle and thread to appropriate for the fabric...and also adjust the presser foot pressure and adjust the upper tension dial.
Yes, although I think what they are calling "lightweight" fabric isn't as lightweight as the fabrics I'm referring to. I think you can use this machine to sew light(ish) fabrics, but I don't think it does it as well as machines that are designed for the purpose - in the same way that machines like my Singer Featherweight, which sews a beautiful stitch on lighter fabrics, isn't the best choice for multiple layers of webbing, for example.
I did a video on this with my Thompson, and as I put it in that video, it's like using a sledge hammer to drive finish nails. It works, but not that great.
All that said, I'm NOT saying, "Don't buy this machine, it doesn't sew lightweight fabrics." I AM saying, "If you MOSTLY sew lightweight fabrics, there are machines that do that better than this one."
Thanks for your input, and thanks for watching!
This inquiry was for a gentleman who will retire from a professional upholstery shop. In his home shop he wants to get set for doing part-time upholstery work so he's looking for something like the Sailrite with zig zag that will do the the upholstery work for both heavy applications and for slightly lighter. Thank you for your reply...and your video is very helpful, filmed well and the narration is easy to hear.
We have the LSZ-1. Sews through everything.
I would like to have seen you compare sewing the Thompson with the Sailrite instead of the Singer. Like seeing the comparisons.
Hi,
The reason I didn't do a side-by-side comparison between the Thompson and the Sailrite is they are almost identical. Without disassembling them and identifying metallurgical differences (which is beyond my ability), there isn't much to contrast between them. I think I mentioned in the video (it's been a while, sorry I don't remember!) but the updated reverse/stitch length lever and the Post-Pin engagement system are significant improvements on the Sailrite. Otherwise, if you blindfolded me, I couldn't tell you which one I was using!
Let me know if you have other questions about the two. Maybe a side-by-side is a video I should make!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
That Pfaff is gorgeous!
Thanks! That machine is the smoothest-sewing of all of my machines. I need to do a video about it sometime.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thank u for the review it helps a lot! I’m about to purchase one and I was scared be someone said it was super loud
You're welcome! It's definitely louder than a typical home sewing machine, but unless you're sewing in the same bedroom your spouse is sleeping in or something, it shouldn't be a problem, and it's a great machine!
Enjoy, and thanks for watching!
Get the monster wheel. That'll help a lot with the noise.
Excellent review. Very informative and answered a number of questions I had. Also subscribed to your channel.
Thanks, Joseph!
Hi Jason, Thanks for being upfront about this review I enjoyed the detail you went into. Looks like a great machine (me thinks maybe my next!!), I recently watched you make a winch cover which was great. You achieved a good symmetrical and smart look, how do you achieve that at the intersecting corners? I've had some problems achieving results as neat as yours, any help much appreciated. Best wishes from North Wales UK
Thanks Colin!
Marking the seam allowances helps keep things consistent, that might be part of the symmetry. Some materials look better than others just by their nature, too. And, I could probably find dozens of things I've sewn that don't come out so good :)
But seriously, I think having accurate measurements to begin with, then cutting and sewing accurately is a big part of it. If you haven't tried marking exactly where you want to sew, then sewing right on that marked line, give it a try and see if it helps.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
If you do want to sew the lighter weight fabric on the sailrite, maybe you could use tear away under the fabric.
Could you do a video on winding and changing the bobbin?
I could, but I don't think I can do better than Sailrite already has.
ruclips.net/video/JXDbYxs1ZWc/видео.html
Thanks for watching!
Jason thanks for doing these vids.do you think the sailrite will sew leather veg tan for a wallet . is there one machine to sew it all.lol nylon to leather . im so happy to come across your channel iv been wanting to learn how to sew gear not quilts.
Hi John,
I think the Sailrite would have no problem at all with making a leather wallet, provided the leather isn't too thick. Leather can vary quite a bit in toughness, too, so you might have to experiment a little. Definitely get leather needles.
You might want to check out my video, "Why Do I Have So Many Sewing Machines?" where I get into the "one machine to rule them all" discussion a bit more.
Thanks for watching, and feel free to contact me with questions!
nice video.... have you tried it with leather at all? i'm researching machine for sewing the uppers of shoes.. going to take a few classes in hand sewn shoes but thinking about machines for some construction...
well, and repairing friends tents-- big reenactment group out this way
Hi David,
I haven't used the Sailrite on leather, but I have no doubt it would work fine on something like shoe uppers. Some people have commented that the feed dogs will mark smooth leathers, so you might need to grind them down (and I think Sailrite may sell a ground feed dog, but I'm not sure). I sew leather bags for my day job, and the Sailrite seems just as capable as the industrials I use at work (in most respects - the foot lift isn't as high, for instance).
Thanks for watching and commenting!
I sew my shoe uppers with a sailrite. It goes through leather quite well. I prefer to hand crank with the monster wheel. Perhaps you'll find someone for a test
Do you have a video on sewing that lightweight outdoor material? Ideal material? Other tricks?
Thanks for the evenhanded review. I have a Janome, but it always gets messed up with webbing and such. I have been wishing after this.
I have an older video where I sewed some thinner materials on the Thompson Mini-Walker (the predecessor to this machine). In my video "Why Do I Have So Many Sewing Machines," I discuss why my choice of one sewing machines is actually TWO machines - the Sailrite and a vintage domestic machine (in my case, a Singer 237, for reasons I discuss in that video).
Basically, I'm of the opinion that a walking-foot machine and a vintage domestic help cover all the bases, with a little overlap.
Sailrite has at least one video on their channel about setting up an Ultrafeed to sew thinner material. I don't think it's an ideal machine for it, but it can be done.
I hope that helps, let me know if you have other questions, and thanks for watching!
Ok, six years later, whats your thoughts on the machine now? Im getting ready to pull the trigger on the leatherworker set up. I know its basically the same machine with some power upgrades and a table. I do leatherworking and want to do more bags, ruck sacks, canvas versions, maybe some patio cushion covers for my mrs. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Hi! Not only do I still have this machine, but I ended up purchasing (at full price) a LSZ-1 with the WorkerB motor (which is now standard). I LOVE these machines. To be fair, for most of my day-to-day sewing, I tend to use my industrial Consew 206, but I also still regularly use the LSZ-1 (sometimes preferring it over the 206 for better speed control, sometimes because I need zig-zag). I don't use the LS-1 as much these days, purely because I just have too many machines. If a portable walking-foot machine fits your needs, this is the one. My only suggestion is unless you absolutely know that you will NEVER use zig-zag, I would at least consider getting the LSZ-1. With a smooth foot set it should be great for leather, and I believe you can buy the leatherworker-style table separately (or get the industrial-style table, or use the machine in a vintage Singer table).
I hope that helps, thanks for the question and thanks for watching!
@@thejasonofalltrades thanks for the reply. I haven't had one need yet for the zigzag. I just know, if I go through the trouble of building up an LSZ-1 to match the leatherworker, I'll never use it! Having said that, if I buy the leatherworker I just know somebody will ask me to make a Bimini top or a dodger for their sail boat, lol. It's Murphy's law.
Thanks for review this machine. I have being watch instruction video's on Sailrite's youtube channel, it sound like the machines in there video make a more muffled noise. Would the case stand or model type (LSZ-1) have something to do with it?
The case, table or room could have an effect on the sound, and I'd guess that Sailrite has a bigger budget for microphones and editing than I do, LOL. I am planning for a video to compare the sound of this machine to some other object that people are familiar with (like a hair dryer, for example) so it will be easier for people considering the machine to know what to expect. It's loud compared to a typical domestic sewing machine, but it's not uncomfortable to use or anything.
Thanks for your question, and thanks for watching!
Hi there, thanks for the vids!! I ran across a Thompson mini walker 83 series and thought how fun to have one and picked it up, would you happen to know if sailrite parts and assessories would fit it?
Hi!
I'm not familiar with the 83 series, but many Sailrite parts and accessories fit the Thompsons that I'm familiar with. Customer support at Sailrite are very knowledgeable and familiar with the Thompson machines, so if you are looking to pick something up I'd check with them before purchasing. Good luck!
@@thejasonofalltrades perfect ... thank you!
Good detailed vid. I'm new to sewing and i'm looking to buy my first machine. It looks like a primary reason the conventional Singer doesn't sew thicker material is a weaker motor, its this accurate? Would a larger more powerful motor on a conventional machine sew leather? Can you recommend a solid conventional machine that can on occasion sew leather and denim, or recommend some features to look for when looking for such a machine?
Hi, and thanks for watching my video!
So, it isn't really the power of the motor that makes a "traditional" sewing machine not work as well for heavier materials (although more power can help in other ways). What makes the Sailrite - and other walking-foot machines - better is the walking foot design, which pulls the material MUCH more effectively.
Pretty much any vintage machine should be capable of denim and at least upholstery weight leathers. Needle choice is important, and there are some tricks one can employ to improve feeding (see my "tip for sewing vinyl" video, for example). I pretty much stick to machines made before the early 1970s. They're simpler, more robust and less expensive than new machines. Most newer machines are cheaply made and have a huge number of stitches that would never be needed for the kinds of things I like to make.
If you're new to sewing and want to learn, my best advice is to hit some thrift stores/garage sales/estate sales and find a vintage machine to start with. I see them all the time for under $50, and one of my favorites in my collection was $20 at a thrift store. Stick with names you recognize (Singer being the obvious one). Try to Google the model number if you can find it to see if it's a machine that is problematic, if there are replacement parts available, etc. If you can, plug it in and make sure it works.
Even better than that is find out if any of your friends or family has an old machine they want to part with, will lend you or maybe can give you a quick lesson to get you started!
I have a pair of pretty old videos on my channel called "sewing machine basics," you might want to check those out.
Good luck, and let me know if you have any other questions!
Jason
Thank you for the info. I'll check out your other vids.
Thank you for review. Is sound volume loud enough to need ear protection? I am always mindful of that.
I don't know how many decibels it is, but I doubt that ear protection would be required. I would say it is not as loud as a typical blender, but louder than your dishwasher. Obviously those things vary a lot in loudness, too, but I'd say it falls somewhere in between.
I only mention it because I sometimes start sewing at 5AM when I get up, before going to work, and if my wife is still sleeping I avoid using this machine at that time, whereas I can use one of my domestic machines without concern.
Thanks for your question, and thanks for watching!
Oh, and good idea to be mindful of protecting your hearing!!!
thejasonofalltrades Thank you for your prompt response. I look forward to watching all your videos. I think they will be very helpful for things I plan to make.
Thanks for the review. I’m seriously considering this as an upgrade from my Singer Quantum Stylist 9960 for making heavier wallets and such. One reviewer of this machine suggested ear protection while using. Do you find this machine loud enough to warrant ear protection? Thanks!
Hi,
I'm so sorry for taking so long to reply.
I think ear protection is WAY overkill. However, I've also done a lot of stupid stuff to my ears over the years, so maybe I'm not the best judge.
I recently posted a video comparing the Sailrite to some other household items to try to demonstrate the noise level. It might help you to make a decision.
ruclips.net/video/nripx6Am0-8/видео.html
The upshot of it is, it's louder than a typical domestic sewing machine, but unless you're sewing in the same room as your sleeping spouse, I don't think it's an issue. Putting the machine into a vintage Singer sewing table or an industrial-style table seems to make it quieter, too.
I hope that helps. The Sailrite is still one of my favorite machines, and is an indispensable part of my collection. The noise isn't even a consideration for me.
Thanks for watching!
@@thejasonofalltrades No worries about the time to reply. Thank you for linking the video comparing the noise level to other household items. Very helpful!
Curious as to your thoughts on a Juki ddl 8700h. More of a beefy straight stitch machine but not a walking foot. Have you ever used one? Sorry this is on an older video but never too late to talk sewing!
Hi Nelson,
I haven't used that particular Juki. My opinion, based on limited experience, is this: For the home/hobbyist sewist, I think the difference between a good vintage domestic machine and a non-walking-foot industrial is slim. You get a great deal more speed with the industrial (which can be good but can also be bad), but it takes a lot more space and is more complex in general. If you're doing some production and need more speed, it might be helpful, but if you're looking to sew heavier/more difficult materials better, I'd hold out for a walking foot. This is basically what happened to me with the Singer 20U - it didn't do what I needed to do any better than my domestic machines (but MUCH faster!). After getting the Sailrite, I sold the Singer 20U.
My personal needs are better met by a walking-foot industrial - I use a very beat up Consew 206RB-1 as my primary machine now, and it's exactly the right machine for me.
All that said, if a non-walking-foot machine is right for you, and you want an industrial one, Jukis are generally excellent machines.
I hope that helps!
Fair review. Thanks.
Great review. Thanks for the information.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
My mom had that exact Singer machine
Do you think it's worth the couple hundred extra for the plus package? Or can I get away with using a lamp for lighting since the basic doesn't have a light? Been debating on whether or not I should get the basic or plus package! The carrying case looks good, but being that the machine is heavy I don't think I will be moving it around much!
Hi!
So, my opinion is if you'd only be buying the Plus package for the light, I'd just buy the light separately for $40 (on Sailrite's site).
I'm very intrigued by the case, but I do have occasions to move my machines. If you aren't going to be moving it around, the standard base should work well. I found that then machine fits in a vintage Singer sewing table, too, and those can be had cheap at thrift stores, so that might be a good option for you if you want a dedicated table that doesn't take up a lot of space..
By the way, this machine weighs about the same as my Singer 237 (which I took to a sewing class today!). It's heavy (around 37-38 pounds, I think) but not impossible.
Thanks for your questions, and good luck! Either way I think you'll like the machine!
thejasonofalltrades thanks so much for your advice! Can't wait to use this machine!
You're welcome, and let me know how you like it!
Hi sir, can this walking foot machine suitable for material like soft silk maxi cloth ?
In my opinion, not really. Yes, with adjustments such as reducing the foot pressure and using a smaller needle, it will sew thin, lightweight material, I would only use it for that if I had nothing else. If you sew a lot of middle-to-heavier fabrics, and rarely sew very lightweight fabrics, and only have room in your life for one machine, then, sure. If you sew a lot of thin materials, this is not the right machine for that. Here's a video I made a few years ago that discusses this more thoroughly. ruclips.net/video/gRttaX2wWjI/видео.html
I hope that helps, thanks for the question!
I know this is an older review video, but maybe this comment will help someone else. I have a LSZ-1 and there is a trick to sewing light weight fabric. The machine will do it and it does a good job of it. But you have to lower the foot pressure. Sometimes all the way down to almost nothing. The knob at the top of the pressure foot will allow you to adjust the down force. For quilting cloth I back this all the way off until the knob comes un-threaded then I give it 2 turns back in just to hold the spring in.
I don't like sewing ultra light nylon but that is not down to bunching or pressure. But rather because I don't have the flat face foot and lower dogs. The dogs and foot are just to aggressive for nylon and leather. Sailrite does have a foot and dogs that will do the job but they are expensive and I have a Pfaff 1222 that does light weight nylon better than the Sailrite can anyway.
Thanks for sharing!
Very helpful thank you! The more variety a single machine can handle, the better. I would not have thought of this.
@@navahx9406 I'm glad I could help. Sailrite has some amazingly detailed videos on they CH. I find them really helpful if a little adverti.
If you're sewing machine? Still turns the main shaft after you disconnect the clutch. Take the clutch. This is on a vintage machines. Take the clutch off the hand wheel off and put a little bit of oil on the bearings surface where the where the hand wheel goes and that will stop that from happening. Don't put a lot, just a couple of drops and if it still goes on just put it a couple more. That's it. Don't need any more than that. Just spin the hand wheel. It'll distribute the oil just fine and that's all you need to do and it should stop that every single vintage sewing machine I've ever had an issue with doing that. All it took was just a couple of drops of oil and you might have to do that once twice a year. Now on these newer machines i have no idea. All I deal with is vintage machines
I thought about buying a nice Sailrite 1 Plus (LSZ-1 ?) , I like making pouches and purses as gifts... I'd like to know more abt the hand crank Sailrite 1 Plus and what you might think of it, do you have any pointers please, plus Ive invested in a Goal Zero Yeti 1000 Lithium Portable Power Station, 1045Wh Silent Gas Free Generator Alternative with 1500W (3000W) and am wondering if it will power the Sailrite 1 Plus. I am thinking my backup plan to an emergency set up with using the hand crank part of the Sailrite 1 Plus purchase... Have you used the hank crank yet and what do you think of it please....
Hi,
I have not used the hand crank option on this machine (it comes as part of the Monster Wheel option). However, I have no doubt that it would be very usable. The motor on this machine is not particularly powerful, it's basically a domestic sewing machine motor. Using the hand crank will be slower, and will mean that you will only have one hand available to position the work as you sew, but if you're not in a hurry it shouldn't be a problem.
Thanks for your question, and good luck!
thejasonofalltrades I’d love to find a machine that has a removable sleeve like the Featherweight (FW) 222, so I could sew around a bag. I have a FW 66 red eye hand crank, a FW 15-91 and a FW 99 hand crank. I was looking for a used sewing machine that would sew leather, and tarp for around the homestead. Any pointers?
Most of the domestic free-arm machines that I know of would probably not be as capable as the machines you have. The one I can think of that might be good is the Pfaff 360.
I use industrial cylinder-arm machines at work, and the ability to access hard-to-reach areas is nice, but at home I have always used flatbeds, and I've done OK most of the time. Your 15-91 should be capable of sewing reasonable thicknesses of leather and tarp material (if you're looking to sew really thick leather, then you need to look into sewing machines specifically made for that purpose), but upholstery thickness leather should be fine).
I've sewn some very thick canvas tarp with my Thompson Mini Walker (the predecessor of the Sailrite Ultrafeed) and it breezed through it.
Hermosa maquina ,llegara a Perú?? Saludos
¡Gracias! Me encantaría visitar Perú un día, parece un lugar hermoso.
I have a question can i use this machine in repairing or making clothes I seen the part about you showing the thin cloth it takes and bundles it up
I'm learning upholstery as well thx
Hi Joseph,
You CAN use this machine to make or repair clothing, although it's not ideal for that use. If you're making something like jeans or other heavy fabrics, it could work quite well. It can be adapted to sew thinner materials, by using a smaller needle and reducing the foot pressure.
My opinion is that it's not the right tool for lighter fabrics, though. A vintage domestic machine with a narrow foot will work FAR better, and they are available very affordably.
If it's the only machine you have, and you don't have the space for another one or just need to do a small repair from time to time, you can make it work. For me, it's like using a framing hammer to pound in finishing nails - it works, but not really.
I hope that helps, thanks for watching!
By the way, I am right this second working on a video about choosing what sewing machine to buy, it might have some helpful information for you, so stay tuned!
JASON- On some videos the machine sounds not as loud. Is this because yours may not be sufficiently oiled-just asking?
I've oiled the machine with no change, and my Thompson PW500 sounds exactly the same.
I have plans to do a video going into the noise of these machines in more depth - I just need the time to make it!
Thanks for the question, and thanks for watching!
Very good explanation! Thank you!
the problem with i buy sewing machine is didnot have in my country.
i wiss i can repair sewing machine so i can buy nice sewing machine.
Have u tried one of those generic looking walking foots that go for like 300 bucks? Like the Rex? They all look the same
I have not tried one. My opinion on those machines, based mostly on ethics, is not a good one. My understanding of the situation is that Sailrite contracted with overseas manufacturers, who ripped off the design and start selling these cheap knock-off versions. There are some material advantages to the genuine Sailrite (it seems the knock-offs have shorter foot pedal cords, for example, and the Sailrite comes with quite a few extras). I've heard from some who have the knock off machines - some like them, some had to do some tuning to get them working well. My guess is they probably work just fine, but there is a reason there is so cheap.
I occasionally see Thompson Mini-Walking Foot machines available on the used market for $300-350. That is the machine the Sailrite is based on, and is a fine machine if you can find one.
Thanks for the question, and thanks for watching!
you never tryed a singer 306... smooth, quiet, rotary shutle and zigzag... and with a bigger motor is as strong as a ls1... made in 1950, the same belt type like the pfaff but new timing belts are availeble... and it can be retimed and adjust the needle bar height so it takes normal needles....
I'm aware of the 306, but you're correct, I've never tried one! It sounds like a great machine, but it still isn't a walking-foot machine, and I've found through experiences with MANY machines (I currently own 22) that a walking-foot machine really outperforms a non-walking-foot machine on the materials/projects I tend to use.
A 306 is one of the machines I would likely buy if I found one available locally at a reasonable price, though!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@thejasonofalltrades im'n not dealing alot with sewing machines, i'm doing electronics :) but i was almost buyed a sailrite, and one of my friends 83 years old 50 years fixing sewing machnes recomanded me to buy the most underated machine of them all the 306, she was born with 206x13 needles, so alot of people get discuraged to buy one, but with just a tweek on the needle height bar and the shuttle she uses the 15x1 needles.... they all need a big cleaning and oiling (2 people and 6 hours after she changed sound). with a plastic puley made over the original one boted with 3 screws and a sligltly longer belt she got a bit slower and alot more powerfull, with a 120 needle 20size treading poliester wee saw 8 layers of sumbrella marine fabbric (i bought if for that reason).... as i said comapred with the rotary shuttle zig zag pfaff she is alot more heavy duty... and even like this the guy told me that if i manage to break the cord belt inside he will eat it :) :) i get it that a walking foot machine has other advantages but he told me that if i ever need a machine over the 306 there is a 3 transport type one (don't remember the type) that does really heavy sewing ... just for laughs i payed 50 euro for the 306 and the heavier one costs like 100euro :)
and aroun here there are alot for sale at50 euro :) on the italian craig's list... :)
What's the maximum height of material that you can feed through? Can you do 6-7 layers of leather if you want to do some reinforced "something".
I don't recall the max foot lift, that should be on Sailrite's website. Whether it can sew through 6-7 layers of leather depends on the leather - how thick is each layer, and how tough is the leather? This machine is certainly capable of sewing reasonable thicknesses of leather, but if you're trying to use it instead of a multi-thousand-dollar true leather working machine, you'll probably be disappointed.
You might want to check out Stock and Barrel's couple of videos on the Tandy Stitchmaster, which is made by Sailrite and essentially has the same capabilities. He does a good job of showing what it can and can't do in leatherworking.
I hope that helps, thanks for watching!
@@thejasonofalltrades 7.5mm roughly, I saw the info at sailrite in a vid by accident
@@thejasonofalltrades thanks for the recommendation, I do cordura stuff mostly these days
Which machine would you say is a better machine, the Thompson or the sailrite? I will buy one, please let me know
Hi Frank,
I think there are three ways to consider your question - new vs new, used vs used, or new vs used. (Note: I'm not including the many Sailrite knock-off machines as an option. I have my own ethical position on those, and I question their quality, but at the moment I have no first-hand experience with them.)
New vs new: Thompson no longer exists, and hasn't for some time. If you want a new machine, go with the Sailrite.
Used vs used: This is more complicated. Newer Sailrite Ultrafeeds have a couple of significant improvements over the earlier ones, which are essentially identical to the Thompson PW-500 (it is the machine on which the Sailrite is based). The reverse/stitch length lever and the Posi-Pin system both make the newer machines much more user friendly. These features can be added to either a Thompson or an earlier Sailrite.
So, if you find a used Thompson and a used early Sailrite priced the same, well, pick which color you like. If you find a newer Sailrite comparably priced (might be unlikely), I think the updated features make it the better choice.
Used (Thompson) vs new (Sailrite): I think the Thompson is slightly - only slightly - better built. I can't support this with any evidence, but my example just feels a little more solid. It might be because it's green.
That said, if we're not talking about price, I'd buy a new Sailrite over an old Thompson without hesitation. The new machine comes with the updated features I mentioned, plus several other accessories, plus a warranty, plus technical support from Sailrite. I've had mine for about 2.5 years, and I've used it harder than the average home sewing enthusiast will. I love it.
If you're on a budget, AND IF you can find a Thompson on the used market in your area, it's a great choice. It will do anything the Sailrite will (they really are the same machine), and you can add the updated features later if you want to. However, I'm nearly constantly looking at used sewing machines and I think I've seen 3 Thompsons in the last 3-5 years. Your mileage may vary, but if you want to buy a machine immediately, a used Thompson might not be an option.
I hope that helps, let me know if you have other questions! Thanks for watching!
Do you have a link to those lights on your bench?
Unfortunately, both of those lights were pretty old used lights I acquired over the years. The white one was a magnifying lamp, probably available from places like Uline (and, I presume, Amazon), and the brown one was a combination of a circular fluorescent bulb and a large incandescent bulb. I've since gotten rid of them both and replaced them with cheap Amazon desk lamps.
Thanks for the question, and thanks for watching!
I need one for all kind of material, which you recommend, which model is the white? I can no spend to much money, I want to start my own bisnesses
Hi!
All of my machines (other than the Sailrite) are vintage machines, pre-1970. The white/grey one is a Pfaff 260, I think circa the 1950s. It is a beautiful machine, and sews great. It's handled some pretty heavy vinyl, but not nearly as well as the Sailrite does.
I hate to say it, but I don't think there is a machine that is good for "all material." At this point, I have 8 machines, and if I had to get down to an absolute minimum, I'd have to have at least two (the Sailrite and my Singer 237 would probably be the two). The Sailrite is FAR better than any of my domestic machines (and even better than the Singer 20-33 industrial I used to have), but it's not great for thin or delicate materials. The Singer 237 (for example) is capable of sewing heavier fabrics, but it's much more of a struggle than with the Sailrite.
The good news is, depending on where you live, vintage domestic sewing machines are usually pretty inexpensive. So if you need the capability to sew heavier material, spend your money on the Sailrite, and try to find a good pre-1970 machine to sew your more delicate items.
I plan to do a video about my current collection of sewing machines, so keep an eye out for that, it might help you decide what machines might work best for you.
Thanks for your question, and thanks for watching!
Thank you for your time, I used to sew with my kenmore machine since I graduated as a Fashion designer, but I was working as stylist for many years. Now I want to start to sew my creations. I enjoy use different materials like leather and plastic. You really makes me feel that I need that machine when I saw your video ja ja,
Thank you again
This would be my 2nd machine for bag making the thick layers do you recommend it
Hi, and sorry for the delay in replying!
In short, YES. Particularly if you need a machine to handle thick layers as a supplement to another machine, I think the Sailrite is an excellent choice.
Thanks for watching!
will the sail rite drop into a table that once held a sump tank head? or are the bases all a little different
The Sailrite Ultrafeed Portable Walking Foot machine has the same base dimensions as my vintage Singer machines (201, 237, etc. - some other models are different). I have an old Singer domestic sewing table that one of my machines came in, and the Sailrite drops right in. It will NOT fit into an industrial table with an opening for an industrial machine head (generally speaking).
I think it is best to think of the Sailrite Ultrafeed as a domestic sewing machine with the walking foot of an industrial machine that has been scaled down. It is NOT an industrial machine. I love my Sailrite, but the advantage it has over an industrial walking foot machine is its compact size and portability. If you don't need that portability, a full-size, truly industrial head might be a better choice.
I hope that helps, let me know if you have other questions!
Would you suggest this machine for leather? I also design and sew backpack and have only used denim so far with a standard household Singer machine but I want to move to leather.
It depends on what you mean by "leather." If you want to use lighter-weight leather (like auto or home upholstery, that kind of thing), it will work fine. It's not designed for thick, vegetable-tanned leather (like for belts, thick straps, etc.).
The main advantage of this machine, compared to your Singer, is the walking foot makes it feed difficult or thick materials MUCH better.
I have plans to shoot a video on leather sewing as soon as I can get to it, so keep an eye out for that!
Thanks for watching!
@@thejasonofalltrades Do you think their new model (the Stitch Master Craftool) would be more appropriate for someone wanting to sew leather?
@@babysleep2529 It really depends on what you mean by "leather." If you intend to sew mostly heavier leathers, then possibly. If you occasionally sew leather and it's more of the thickness you might find in a leather jacket or upholstery, any walking-foot machine should be fine. I haven't seen or used the Stitch Master one, but my understanding is it is intended to sort of be an entry-level leatherworker's sewing machine, and might not be best for someone who does a wide range of sewing (or at least not worth the extra cost if you're not a leather worker, per se).
@@thejasonofalltrades Thank you! Yesterday I bought a long arm walking foot Omega machine with monster wheel from a Quebec seller on ebay. I think it will be good for what I need. I didn't want to pay duties from the US. I'm excited to get on these projects. Curious to know what types of handbags you sew? Do you work for a company or are these your own?
how do these dry sump portable machines stay oiled? vs. the traditional sump tank industrial style?
You just have to apply a drop of oil to the various oiling points from time to time, probably once before you start using it for the day unless you're using it more than average. Sailrite has a video version of their manual in a series of RUclips videos if you want to learn more.
Thanks for watching!
If you already haven’t done sew, lol, a video of your sewing machine collection with thoughts would be cool
ruclips.net/video/D1fey3C7kd0/видео.html
Do you think this would do well with car interior pieces or is the throat space too small? My cat unthreads my machine with his tail. Lol
What little auto upholstery work I've done would be easily done by this machine, I think. The throat space isn't huge, but you can cram stuff in there if needed.
LOL your cat sounds as helpful as mine!
(If you haven't seen it, this is cat "help" at its finest - ruclips.net/video/YDMgEiyPkVM/видео.html )
Thanks for watching and commenting!
No needle and thread information on the two machines? CD in Oklahoma
The Sailrite and the Thompson both use 135x17 needles. I think I have size 18 in the machines at the moment. I almost always use size V-69 nylon thread for the nylon fabrics I use. Sailrite has a chart with helpful needle size information on their website.
Thanks!
What needle size and thread were you using in the Singer 237 that was the comparison machine? Thanks. CD in Oklahoma
The thread in the 237 was also V-69 nylon. I'll have to take a look at the needle, I don't recall what is in there at the moment. Probably a Singer 110/18.
Was sewing with a Ls-1 machine yesterday it started sewing SLOW and then completely quit sewing all together Sailrite tech was not there it was late afternoon and I could not get help with the problem. Have you ever had this problem and how was it fixed I am assuming I can reach them on Monday. But just wondering if you have had that happen.
Hi,
I haven't had that issue. It sounds to me like an electronics issue, perhaps something with the motor, but I'm just guessing. Does the machine turn freely by hand?
@@thejasonofalltrades yes it does turn freely by hand and just before it stopped altogether it just slowed down and then when I push the peddle nothing BUT the guy that works with me said he can hear a faint buzz @ the motor when I press the foot control.
@@1954evelyn I know almost nothing, but hopefully it's some minor electrical gremlin. Good luck, and let us all know what it was when you find out!
@@thejasonofalltrades I sure will they will call tomorrow from tech support hopefully it si somethign we can fix over the phone we need it to finish a job. I do have a Consew we can dig out but hopping we can get this to work. We use pre wound bobbins and I have never wound a bobbin on it hoping maybe I might have moved the bobbin winder or somethign I will know more tomorrow when I get back I watched some videos I have a couple things to check
Whenever you call a company and can’t get help when you call customer service, just select the option “buy” or “pay” and someone will pick up right away. It’s that way will all companies . That’s how I get through the voicemail maze.
2:45 what is that? partacks?
Sorry! A "Bar Tack" is a reinforcing stitch used in high stress areas. You might find them at the corner of a pocket on a pair of jeans, for instance. It is typically made by sewing a straight stitch, then sewing a zig-zag back and forth over that line of stitches. There are specifications for things like military equipment, parachutes, etc., that will define how many stitches per inch, how many zig-zags, how wide, etc., but for making bags and similar gear, you probably don't need to be that specific. If you don't have a zig-zag machine, many of us just straight-stitch back and forth several times to accomplish the task. It might not be technically as strong or effective, but usually is good enough.
I hope that helps! Thanks for watching!
Hi do you have any idea what type of machine you would need to sew ripstop fabric for repairing paragliding wings?
Hi,
In terms of machine capability, virtually any sewing machine can sew ripstop nylon just fine. A non-walking-foot machine would be best.
However, a paraglider wing is obviously a critical safety item. If you aren't a certified rigger, I would strongly advise you not to try to repair one without specific training or an experienced rigger advising you.
I hope that helps, good luck!
@@thejasonofalltrades thank you
Lol...hypnotized the 🐱 cat
So 11 months later, still as happy with it and would suggest it?
Hi,
Short answer: yes!
I've used this machine by far the most of all of my machines (currently 11 of them) in the year that I've had it. Other than the one mysterious broken spring in the "I broke my Sailrite" video, which was easily replaced and didn't affect the machine's function, I've had zero complaints.
Thanks for your question, and thanks for watching!
thejasonofalltrades thank you for the response, I’m currently saving for mine right now
Have you tried sewing fabric with sequins or beaded fabrics? If not, could you? I do a lot of sewing for cosplay and theatre costumes and would like to know if machine can handle those fabrics. BUT BE WARNED!! Do NOT get fabric where the sequins or beads are glued on. Only try sewing with fabric that has sequins/beads SEWN on. Even dried fabric glue will ruin a machine. It gunks up on needle and wreaks havoc. I recently did $200 damage to a machine from that glue. That glue warning also applies to iron on interfacing, iron on fabric binders like stitch witchery, anything iron on basically.
Please let me know if you try fabric with sequins or beads. Thank you.
I have not sewn anything with sequins. I checked with my wife (she sews, too, but mostly quilts) and she doesn't have any sequin fabric around. You might send an email to Sailrite to see if they have any input. I'd say that thinner fabrics are not what this machine is best at. I have a video on my channel where I used my Thompson on a variety of thin and stretchy fabrics with varied results, you might want to take a look at that one.
thejasonofalltrades okay, thank you. I appreciate all your input.
I have the LSZ1 Sew N Go Bundle and it is not this loud with the Servo Motor.. I actually never even tried the motor that was on it when it arrived and probably never will unless I need to use it remotely.. Great Comparison video I also looked at the Knock off CLones and just didn't think it was a good idea.. When I saw people using the parts from Sailrite on the Clones that was a good enough reason for me.. Also watch Sailrites video on the comparison. Those machines are not made well nor are they made as sturdy as the Sailrite Machines...Thanks for the VIdeo..
That's good to know that it is quieter with the servo motor, I wasn't sure how much of the noise was motor vs. mechanism. Thanks for the info!
is this good for leather?
Hi!
Yes, depending on what you mean by "leather."
If you want to sew horse tack, you probably want a dedicated leather working sewing machine. If you want to make wallets or other items from relatively thin leather, this machine would work great, and Sailrite now sells a smooth foot set to prevent marking leather as well.
I hope that helps, thanks for watching!
The loudness is a real turn off. And I'd rather have an industrial WF. I mean, how often do you move?
Hi,
It's definitely louder than a standard domestic sewing machine, but a clutch-motor industrial is probably louder. There are other advantages to a portable walking foot besides moving (I've moved 7 times in the last 10 years, by the way - three of those moves more-or-less cross country). I've managed to squeeze an industrial into my space at home, but I've had to make some compromises to do it. And I'll still use the portables even with an industrial available to me. Sometimes it's just a matter of convenience.
I have plans for a video to help more accurately describe the loudness of this machine, since saying "it's loud" is pretty subjective. I think it's an important consideration if you sew in a small home when others are sleeping, but otherwise I personally don't find it objectionable.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@thejasonofalltrades Thanks for replying. I have neighbors next to and below me so a loud machine would not work. I have been around clutch motor machines and they were a little louder than the household types not nearly as loud as what I see in the videos of the Sailrites. Maybe you can get a cheap dB meter and do a comparison. Would be interesting.
I would maybe try to rig a more quiet motor on the back of the Sailrite or see if you can set up a servo motor on top somehow.
But, there is still a question in my mind of whether a lot of noise is coming from inside the machine itself.
I strongly suspect the noise is mostly from the machine and not the motor, although I honestly haven't tried to find that out for sure.
If your neighbors would be bothered by you using a hair dryer, or a spice grinder/coffee grinder, then they might be bothered by this. It's really hard to convey relative levels of sound on a video (and most people wouldn't know what X decibels would compare to), but it's only loud for a sewing machine. It's definitely not a chain saw!
It's unfortunate that there aren't showrooms where you can try these out before buying.
Recommendation: make a video about 1) all these heavy duty fabrics that you use and know about, their properties, their uses etc 2) sewing threads, their gauges, their materials, properties etc
what are all of the machines that you own (use) ?
My current collection is:
The Sailrite (duh!)
Thompson Mini Walker PW-500
Singer 237
Singer Featherweight
Pfaff 260
Pfaff 360 (the flatbed version of the 260)
At work we use Pfaff 1245s. They are beasts.
thejasonofalltrades Do you sew professionally at work? Also, I have a sewing question. I'm new to sewing and I am going to purchase the Sailrite. I will be sewing canvas and thicker nylon. My question is, what keeps the stitches from just unraveling at the end? It seems that you sew as far as your going and lift the presser foot and just snip the threads...
Hi Chris,
I've been sewing as a hobby for the last 5-plus years, and I recently started sewing professionally. I work for a marine canvas shop, making boat covers and that kind of stuff.
Regarding the stitches coming unraveling at the end, that's a really good observation! You are correct, if you don't do something to prevent it, that will happen. (If your thread tension is correct, along with a few other factors, it won't happen very easily, but it can unravel.)
The usual method is to start sewing, reverse for several stitches, then resume sewing forward again. This back and forth sewing over the same spot is usually enough to lock the stitch. Depending on where the seam in question will end up in a finished piece, you don't necessarily have to do it - if the end of the piece you are sewing is getting sewn into another seam, for example - but it's not a bad habit to just do it every time. In the sewing demos in this video, I didn't do it, because I wasn't actually sewing anything.
I have an older, 2-part video on my channel called Sewing Machine Basics you might want to check out, it has some good information for someone just getting started. Also, Sailrite's RUclips channel has some great info, and you also might want to check out Alexander Dyer's channel.
Thanks for your questions, thanks for watching, and good luck!
thejasonofalltrades o
I have the LSZ-1 and I've done bartacking with it. I added the monster wheel upgrade (among others), and built a dedicated bench that the MDF platform drops down into. The monster wheel has a lot of inertia and made the table shake once it got up to speed. I was thinking about charging people to ride the table when I wound bobbins before I built the dedicated bench. The zig zag is indispensable the first time you happen to need it. In the absence of a dedicated bartacker (which I'd probably trade a certain amount of back alley favors to have), the Sailrite does an awesome job. The only "wish list" item I'd like to have is a dedicated bobbin winder for large thread, but I'm intent on upgrading to the Fabricator, too, and that has one. I even got a "above the needle" light for it (but it's not something that Sailrite sells). Let me know if you're interested in that and I'll shoot you some pictures. It takes some careful wire routing to keep it out of the mech but I much prefer it over the mag mount light that everyone seems to like.
Assuming you haven't done it yet, go through it once, clean it out and oil it really well on all the contact points and that cuts the noise in half. Also, you can turn the foot tension down to get that thin stuff to go without bunching, but it's a little bit of a hindrance to switch back and forth (especially with how finicky mechanicals can be).
Good stuff, and I'd love to see the light arrangement you're using!
What's the best way to send you pictures?
My email address is in the "about" section on my channel page.
I'd like to see your needle light arrangement too.
Sailrite vs Barracuda?
Hi,
I haven't personally used any of the knock-off machines like the Barracuda. I have a well-documented negative opinion about the knock-off machines in general, primarily on ethical grounds. This is something I'm planning to cover in an upcoming video.
In general, based on my current information, I understand that the other portable walking-foot machines on the market are all illicitly profiting from "stealing" the Sailrite design. For me, it's worth spending my money on the real deal. However, we all have budgets. I would suspect that the knock-off machines would probably function fine, although I'd also suspect their quality assurance to be less stringent, so there might be an increased chance of getting a faulty unit, and almost certainly poor customer support.
That's my two cents in a nutshell. Keep in mind, this is just my opinion.
Thanks for the question, and thanks for watching!
I don't think the Sailrite is the 1st walking foot smaller machine. I have a Pfaff 1222 E, from 1973, which is a walking foot machine.
The Pfaff 1222 is "sort of" a walking foot machine. It's more like a standard, non-walking-foot machine with an additional walking "toe" added on. I've never used one, but I wouldn't doubt that it works very well. I suspect, however, that it would not be as effective on really thick materials, particularly at transitions between thinner and thicker parts, because unlike a true walking foot, the presser foot doesn't lift up - it just sort of bounces up and down when sewing.
To my knowledge, the Thompson Mini Walker is the first portable "true" walking foot, and that's the machine the Sailrite is based on. However, I don't know everything yet, so I could be wrong :)
Thanks for watching and commenting!
كم السعر الزائر.،،
Had one didn't like it one bit
Don't like the foot lifter at the top.Too loud. Rather have a knee lifter .Rather have a 206 rb.The bed of the machine is too short.
Hi Linda,
I addressed some of this on another comment of yours, but for the benefit of someone reading this who doesn't see the other video:
Comparing this machine to a 206RB (which I also have) is like comparing a van to a moving truck. The 206 has much more generous throat space, and is in an integrated table providing much more space for your project. It would be extremely difficult to use on your dining room table, though.
The Sailrite Ultrafeed is a compromise between size and function, and I've found mine to function amazingly well. I sew for a living and have used at least a dozen different industrial machines. I've yet to use one that will sew something that the Sailrite couldn't also sew.
It took me some time to get used to the foot lift on the top. Now I often instinctively reach for that spot on my other domestic machines. To me, the location of the lever is a trivial thing, and there are similar differences between many of my other machines.
I agree that the Ultrafeed is surprisingly loud for a domestic machine. I've been planning a video to accurately illustrate how loud it is, because for someone living in a small, shared space, or needing to sew while others are sleeping, it might be a consideration. That said, it's not like running a chainsaw in your apartment.
I appreciate your input; you have some valid points, and we can't all like the same things all the time! Thanks for watching and commenting!
If only the Sailrite was made with the quality and machining of the 237 Singer
Hi,
Honestly, comparing any modern sewing machine to machines from pre-1970 is not a fair comparison. Nothing is manufactured as robustly as things used to be, whether we're talking chainsaws, cars or sewing machines. To some extent, this possibly is a result of greediness, making the product as inexpensively as possible to maximize profit. On the other hand, it's quite wasteful, to use, say, 30% more material than is needed to make a component, so engineering a product that is made of only the amount of metal (or labor, or whatever) required to do the job for a reasonable lifespan could be a reasonable adaptation.
The Sailrite Ultrafeed is a tool, and the manufacturing processes used in its manufacture seem, to me, to be more than adequate to produce a tool that functions perfectly in its intended application. It's not smooth like a 237, or a Singer 201, or an older Pfaff, or a Bernina (not by a long shot). However, I use my Ultrafeed far more than any of those other machines.
I suppose Sailrite could produce the Ultrafeed at a finish level of something like a 1960s Bernina, but it would probably cost $5000.
The Sailrite is like an old farm truck. Not the most elegant thing, maybe rides rough, maybe a little noisy - but when you need a truck, you need a truck.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Great review however depending on the project you are doing you are obviously going to make adjustment and when the right adjustments are made on the sailrite it can easily sew the lightest of fabric such as what you are sewing at the time frame 9:20 just as well as the other machine. The sailrite demonstration explains the adjustments needed to sew lighter material in this video ruclips.net/video/I8K-XBMWDlw/видео.html
Hi, and thanks!
I am aware that the Sailrite can be adjusted to sew thinner materials. I've talked about this more in some of my other videos, but my point is not that the Sailrite can't sew thinner materials, it's just that it's not necessarily the right machine for that job. For example, I can sew pretty thick layers of Cordura, webbing, etc. with my Singer 237 (although it is similarly not the best for that job), then go straight to 1.1 oz silnylon without out changing anything (maybe a slight tension adjustment, but that's it).
I've been using the Sailrite Ultrafeed for about two years now, and it is indispensable to me, I use it far more than any of my other machines. However, when I sew really thin materials (as I did recently in my repairing of my water bottle holder, see the recent video), it is FAR easier for me to switch to one of my vintage domestic machines than it is to set up the Sailrite. In that project, I actually switched back and forth between my Singer 237 and the Sailrite a few times for various reasons.
If you only have room for one machine, and the majority of your sewing is heavier materials, the Sailrite is hard to beat. If you occasionally sew really thin stuff, I imagine it can be made to work quite well. However, I still don't think it's the right tool for that job. Your mileage may vary!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Be aware, the zigzag model does not do cording.
Hi,
This is directly from Sailrite's website on the LSZ-1 (the zig-zag model):
"The presser foot features a built-in welting tunnel for sewing piping up to 5/32" and a needle positioning lever moves the needle left, right and center so you can sew marine zippers without changing the foot."
Are you having an issue with yours, or is there some other reason you believe it doesn't do cording?
Darn good because it can do a good darn.
Cat! 😄
Two!
Don’t drop the machine I want it. Lucky you
Super
I wish i had a thousands bucks for one of these damn
What Toy are you reviewing next week? A Betty Crocker Easy Bake Oven? Look how well it can bake these brownies and cakes.........
Jeff, I feel like you need to find a positive outlet for whatever sadness or frustration you are experiencing. I don't know why you feel the need to harass me in the comments on my videos, or why you have such apparent loathing for Sailrite, but your vitriol isn't doing anything to help you. If there is something I can say to help you, I'd love to, but I'm at a loss, since you have only cast out insults without providing any actual information about what you are so upset about. Maybe there is someone in your life you can talk to. Good luck, man, I wish you well. Please stop with the unnecessary negative comments.
I know this is an older video but I feel that you have your sailrite set up wrong for light fabrics this might help
ruclips.net/video/I8K-XBMWDlw/видео.html
Hi Jack,
I appreciate the link! I'm actually familiar with this (I watch a lot of Sailrite's videos). My position is not that the Ultrafeed can't sew lighter fabrics, it's that it's not really designed for that, and many other machines do it much better. The same works the other direction; the Ultrafeed can sew things that a typical domestic drop-feed machine can also sew, but the Ultrafeed does it much, much better.
I can't remember if I made this analogy in this video or another one, but to me, using the Ultrafeed (or really any walking-foot sewing machine) to sew lightweight fabrics is like using a framing hammer to tap in finishing nails; sure, you can do it, but it's not the right tool for that job.
The other issue for me is, since I'm fortunate to have multiple machines, I find it much more efficient to use a machine that is already good at/set up for sewing lightweight fabrics, rather than making adjustments to an Ultrafeed. For someone who ONLY owns an Ultrafeed, this would be a different case. If one were to ask my opinion, though, I would not recommend an Ultrafeed to someone who ONLY sews lightweight fabrics, or even someone who only rarely needs to sew heavier fabrics. It is a machine that is specifically designed to excel at medium to heavy fabrics (like marine canvas and sailcloth) and light leathers, not lightweight fabrics.
I should also point out that when I talk about lightweight materials, I'm usually referring to things like 1.1oz silnylon or other "ultralight" fabrics used for outdoor gear, not the typical household or apparel fabric such as what is used in the Sailrite video you linked to. It's possible that my narrow experience and focus could lead to some confusion, sorry about that!
Thanks for sharing your thoughts, and thanks for watching!
@thejasonofalltrades not a problem, and what you say makes perfect sense. I am getting into sailing, and making as much of my own gear is a big bonus for me. In my past hobbies, I enjoy it more when I can make and modify my own gear. For me personally, the sailrite machine makes more sense because I would be sewing heavier fabrics and would rarely be sewing lighter fabrics, so it be worth setting it up for that if needed over buying a singer or brother. Although singer and brother make very good entry level machines that won't break the bank... ( know that from years of learning to sew from family)
Anyways thank you for replying.
I'm sorry to tell you my friend. Sail right boght a Chinese machine and upgrade it with their own parts. Not the other way. Sail right is the knock off of the Chinese not the other way... That's why you see identical models... They are all based on the cheap Chinese machine
Hi,
I want to start off by saying that I am VERY interested in ANY evidence to support your claim. Many others have made the same claim, and not a single one has ever responded to my request for any backing evidence, so this is your chance to be the first! A fairly large number of people have bought Sailrite machines based on my recommendation, and I don't want to recommend them if the information I have is incorrect, so it is very important to me if you can back up your claim!
So I am asking you; on what evidence do you base your claim? How did you come to this conclusion?
My prediction is you either will not respond, or you will not provide any supportive information, as this is what has happened in every other case where someone has made this claim to me. Please prove me wrong.
Chinese make cheap knock offs of many great products and sewing machines are no different. What SailRite did is take a great proven machine and make it the way it was intended to be made; that is with quality parts. Chinese Communist Party copies everything produced in capitalist societies and cheapen the crap out of it and pretend it’s all the same, which it’s not! They’ve done that with. Water softener valves you see online and internal combustion engines., etc. SailRite is a quality product.
So friggen LOUD. Thats me out.
It's definitely louder than a standard domestic sewing machine. Depending on your situation, it could be a deal breaker, but if you have a chance to check one out in person, I wouldn't rule it out prematurely. These machines are pretty awesome.
Thanks for watching and commenting!