After 17 years of sewing and several machines, I now know what I wish I did 17 years ago. I sew leather, clear vinyl, cotton and nylon web strap, 30oz canvas, ballistic nylon, ect. My favorite machines now are consew 206 rb5 w/v69-v92-v138 thread straight stitch+high lift foot+large bobbin. Consew 227r w/v92-v138 thread straight stitch+high lift foot+cylinderarm. Sailrite lsz-1 w/v69-v92 thread straight and zigzag stitch. Juki lzh-1290 w/v92-v138 thread straight and 10mm wide zigzag+big bobbin. Cowboy 3200 w/v346 thread straight stitch+high lift foot. One other thing I learned, consew's and juki's hold their value, so resale hasn't been a problem. A Speed reducer and a servo motor was the other thing that I had to wrap my mind around. It's the only way to tame a speedy and touchy clutch motor machine. Lastly, find a well established mobile mechanic that has a good reputation with Taylor's, seamstresses, dry cleaners and sweatshops near you, and treat him good.
I've been doing upholstery work for 37 years - residential furniture, automobile seats, boats, commercial healthcare seating, etc. I started doing leathercraft 4 years ago. One thing you DID NOT cover, which is as important as the thread size, is the size and type of NEEDLES you use for your various sewing projects. Round point needles are used for vinyl and cloth materials and can be used for lighter weight leather. But chisel point needles are better for leather because they cut an opening the way a stitching chisel and a hammer does. But they aren't recommended for vinyl and cloth. The needle also MUST be big enough so that whatever size thread you use feeds easily through the eye of the needle you use.
I use a Sailrite Fabricator for my leather flatbed machine. It's got a 6 pole servo motor, very powerful, and speed dials way down. I do both leatherwork and upholstery. It's an incredible machine. Best of all I think I paid 1300 brand new for it with everything included.
What you told in this video, was exactly what I would like to know!!! I am just curious about sewing with no hesitation to spend money on quality!!! Thanks so lot for your humble opinion and your beautiful and generously knowledge!!! Stay safe and happily alive sir!.🍀💚👌👍👏😇
Just discovered your channel and this has been a monumental piece of information for me. I’m looking at several machines online and really had no experience with buying an industrial machine at all. You just saved me a lot of time and money. Thanks for the video, my friend!
Thank you for sharing. I am glad I am still doing my research before I purchase my industrial machine.. A week ago. I purchased a Brother Luminaire Xp2 Embroidery & Sewing Machine.
Excellent video, right to the point. good humor. appreciated. I grew up with sewing machine. Clearly Know what he is talking about. Learn a lot, not everyday someone gives you advice. thank you
This guy is spot on with his advise...except he said his is a "walking foot" machine which is different than the machine you have there, yours is a triple feed...."Lower, Upper, and Needle" all feed the materials through. triple feed is much better than a walking foot only machine in my opinion. The early Consew 206RB up to the recent 206RB-5 are triple feed machines the older ones were made by Seiko in Japan and are a bit better built than the most recent 206RB-5 models, but the recent models have the ability to adjust the "forward reverse stitch length" much more easily than the early machines. If your doing leather and the reverse stitches need to exactly follow the holes in forward and reverse then the later machine might be a good choice. Another thing is that you need to learn how to at least check the alignments of these machines and there are two really great videos on RUclips going over everything and it will work on all the Consew 206 models with some different locations of adjustments. You can also use the videos to look over most similar designs like the Juke's adjustments. Don't assume that if it's new it's got to be adjusted correctly, my Consew 206RB sewed "just fine" and so many of the adjustments were totally out of wack, once everything was adjustend correctly it sewed way way better but who would know unless you had two next to each other. My opinion is the triple feed Juke he has is a step above the Consew 206RB-5 but the Consew is much cheaper and will sew most anything the Juke will. Kind of like saying a Chevy vs. Acura sure both will get you there. This is just my opinion and worth what you paid for it.
Really good/helpful video. Good energy and helpful confidence builder. I've only been sewing for a few years , I've had about 9-wrong sewing machines. Way to much wasted money, wife was about to throw me out if I said I need another machine. Walking foot? I didn't know I need one. I kept wondering why my heavy vinyl projects keep slipping while sewing. Now I have two walking foot machines, one straight stitch and one 1/2" double needle. Anyway, really like your insight and lessons learned sharing...
Thanks from Coalville, Ut. I had a leather and nylon company 25 years ago. Had to give up the leather and nylon because I was a general contractor and couldn't do both. I am through with construction and am starting the leather and a wood business making small cabinets again. I bought and still have a Consew 206RB from Ferdco with a speed reducer and it was reworked so it will use up to and including 207 thread. Sometimes I wished the speed reducer was slower. Good video and a lot of information.
I would add that point #2 is the most important and hardest to obtain. Sewing canvas with many layers and thick window material you just can't do it without. Most on the market aren't able to do six layers of material or more as well as the window materials. Good video. Take care. Doug
glad to find this channel. Compliments to being straight to the point, not repeating yourself, not saying what you're going to say before you say it (youtube plague). I am now searching for the correct machines, thank you for posting this vid and good job on the a/v.
I have a consew206rb5 that is a compound feed. It is walking foot and needle feed. I got it with a servo motor which can be dialed down to pretty slow speed. It's was 1400 new. I sew up to 10 oz leather with it and it works great. It would sew heavier leather if I wanted. It's a great machine.
On some machines you can reduce the pressure foot pressure by loosening the screw at the top which can help reduced marks. I've also heard of some people filing the dog feed teeth down some - but wouldn't recommend this!
Man, this tip with the speed reducer was awesome. I got an old industrial machine from my grandma which is running uncontrollably fast. I have no idea how she could sew on that thing. So now i am going to give that a try. Thanks man. Loving your content, by the way.
I love my Juki 8700-h I have sewn leather and with a quick change of throat plate it sews silk. Gold star tools sells a walking foot adapter. But maybe I want this one too. Time to call Daines.
Great machine You did get yourself a great deal FYI i got into sewing as a hobby around 10 years ago and there were basically. No videos on walking foot sewing machines so its nice to see channels and guys like you supplying all the information i lucked out that my machine has served me well Although I’m always on the lookout. For other deals that may be slightly nicer to have my main projects are usually boat interiors / cushions and Vintage Sportscars upholstery i would like to expand into leather eventually probably knife sheaths and maybe belts
Can you make a video explaining thread sizing? Different brand of thread seem to have different ways of measuring their thread size and it’s so confusing!
Thank you so much, I'm starting a leather business myself and That was my problem . I didn't know what to buy I appreciate your info. may God bless you and those you love
Do not buy a juki they are really easy to foul the bobbin and it always knocks the bobbin shuttle out of time and it is a b to retime, stay away from this 1500 machine.
Agree with everything you said - especially the slow speeds! I have a Juki DNU 1541 which is a compound needle feed machine like your 1508. I have a servo fitted so I can take the speed right down. I make leather bags but use more chrome tan than veg tan leathers (though I do make veg tan stuff). There are odd occasions when I would like a cylinder head - top stitching awkward areas - but not enough to justify having a cylinder head...I can usually bully the leather to get the flatbed to work...though can be hard on the hands! A lot of places will let you try the machine out at the premises so worth taking typical projects along to try. Edit - my machine is also fitted with an auto needle down - which I love!
My husband and I buy and sell industrial machines in the Eastern North Carolina area I have a Chandler which is the same as the 206 RB. All you need is a bigger pulley to slow the machine down.I've been sewing for thirty years .You don't need to go buy a new machine I think the old ones are made better.I have a few that were made for the army during WW2 and they run great! But that's just my opinion lol.I have 7 industrial in my sewing room everything from a walking foot an industrial zig zag and a double needle.I guess I'm a machine border lol.But I do use them all
I cannot fathom, that you bought machines at all before reading the commonly available information, nor testing your particular project type in a sewing machine dealership. You know, they'll let you bring in whatever and try to sew it on their machines. At any rate, I used the same Juki machine you have now. Never any complaint with it. Reliable and easy to adjust. Bobbin size could have been bigger, but maybe they fixed that on the new ones, idk, but for wallets, that won't be too much of a concern. I switched to a Durrkopp walking foot, due to a variety of convenient, computerized automations. I get to be lazy about start-stop, backstitch and such details now. One step further and the machine doesn't need me anymore ^^
Thank you so much I have the same Juki machine.I have been looking for a speed reducer for well over two years This is awesome I will order one right away.Again thank you
Wow! My man very good description. I knew all these points with only 3 weeks of research and tons of hours. You did it in 13:28. I just picked up a 1541s with servo mode also used for an awesome price. I tested out thread of 277 today at a industrial sewing machine store in my city and wanted to test it out with the tech there. He advised against that size thread with that machine but i insisted because I have seen other off brand juki style bodies in 1541 that condoned using the 277 thread. I didn't find out about the speed reducer till today and while sewing heavy leather with the tech testing out the 277 it did sew it. It had some adjusting to do but I like to understand my equipment to the maximum to get the maximum out of it. Bottom line is he said I would get more torque and slower speeds which would be able to handle to 277 thread if you know your machine and limits of skill. Bottom line I'm very happy I got the 1541s and will def get a speed reducer. Great video my man and keep up the good content. Thanks
So I just ordered the speed reducer for my machine and trying to get a bit more detail on the install of it. I know it's not that difficult to do but can you explain what other belt you had to get for the reducer and did you have to move the motor at all or just drill hole for the reducer to line up? I want to get it right the first time so i'm not drilling holes all over the place. Thanks for the help.
I just got my speed reducer in the mail and was wondering from your video if you are supposed to use the smallest gear on the reducer. I see you are only using the largest one and middle one but not the smallest one? Suggestions or help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance
I made the same mistakes like you too. Bought an juki ddl 227 used for tailoring. Now, I have a consew 206rb-5. I won't make that mistake again! Btw, loved the ending!
I have the Cowboy 4500 and it sows perfectly with the Tex 135 thread with an needle 23/160 (I believe) the needle is. I did as well at first the mistake to sew with Tex 207 or something like that and with the needle 25/200 (or something) but have since switched to ONLY the #138 thread. The CB 4500 handles perfectly the #138 thread. I believe it can go down to #96 or something as well with an smaller needle and I am sure it would handle that. But honestly size #138 thread is about the lowest it can handle since the tensioners are allmost off the thread released so it had to be fine tuned for #96 thread since thats the lowest it ever will get. Yes the CB4500 is a fine machine and allmost universal. It is exactly like that the smaller the thread and needle the better the leather work will look - it makes all the difference. Basically the Juki should use same or similar sized needle if you use #138 thread since the thread goes with the needle. Belts look very nice with the #138 thread but not so nice (big honking holes) when using the #207 thread. For wallets #138 is a bit of an overkill and any error (and believe me, errors happen) show readily so I gave up with wallets. I make only belts, holsters, slippers&sandals, COVID-19 masks from leather, smartphone holsters, etc with the #138 thread&needle. The CB 4500 lifts the foot exactly 15mm up and with the foot pedal it does exactly 21mm, although it was advertised for 22mm with the foot pedal. I wished it would rise a bit more for the slippers&sandals but then the #138 thread is about the minimum you want in slippers, sandals and shoes. Sewing through an rubber insole the upper of the slippers on the foot hight is maxed out but the thread is not ripping off. My mistake was to order white thread and of the size #207 which is now not in use. Darker threads are more universal like chocolate brown and desert tan.
Just ordered a rex Rc-607 and after I found that they I guess have a one speed motor (haul ass!) also so I’m ordering a over sized flywheel from sailrite that will slow the thing way down looking forward to finding out lol
Another informative video! I sew leather bags for my employer all day on cylinder arm and post bed machines, and it can be pretty tiring. I definitely prefer a flatbed when a cylinder or post isn't absolutely necessary! Thanks for sharing the great info!
Thanks for a great informational video. I sew handbags out of Cork Fabric. And I have been looking at the Juki 2010Q but I am not 100% sure. I also am interested in the Cowboy machines. IDK. Confusing. But this is very helpful.
For cowboy 3200 and 4500 you can get a flatbed attachment, but still it's not going to be as convinient, and those heave machines don't do a nice stitch over thin leather (i can't get it as nice as on lower weight machines.
Yes the most economical would be buy a sewing machine head class CB 4500 on alibaba China individually, the buy the motor on eBay as well as the speed reducer and put that on an table you have at home. I use an old computer table. The table better has to be sturdy and must have an iron frame.
Thanks so much for the info. Im looking into a new hobby. And this is it. So i want to know everything. Going to tandy leather to get more info ob my new craft.
Your videos are awesome thanks for the effort. I just ordered the Juki 1508 H. Could you advise or do a video on what type of thread and needle to use with different weight leathers? I’m looking at making gun holsters.
I love juki sewing machines I use to be a double needler forHonda seats in Athens ohio… how did you get started sewing wallets if I may ask? I’m looking at starting something now that our business has moved elsewhere I find myself wanting to sew - So bad Lol but seriously I’m interested in doing something from home I’m also raising a young kid again so working from home would be more convenient, if you have any ideas of what ppl are looking for? Our seats were leather as well so repairing holes or attempting a repair is very difficult I like that you said you could adjust the speed on home industrial machines, “I miss my juki “ great machines thank you for the video and the link below for machines I’ll be checking them out.
I really appreciate your input. I can see you are happy with this machine for leather. Do you know how well this machine will handle very thick heavy fabrics and sequin fabrics? I need a machine for costuming and cosplay.
Hi, thank you for your videos, we are learning a lot! With my wife, we want to start making leather bags. We don’t have any experience so far. Thanks to you, we now know we don’t need a simple sewing machine. What machine would you recommend us for tote bags, purses and satchels? Thanks!
A request, for whenever you have time.... I noticed at 6:47, you showed your cowboy 341 machine. I'm curious to see specifically what this machine might do that a flatbed cannot. As I recall, you got rid of the 3200 but later bought a 341. WHen you have time, can you do a review of the 341? Thanks for your videos.....
For example, you could sew cowboy boots with it. They are popular with shoe makers, though they could marginally speed up some apparel work as well, like working on sleeves. I've seen those in an Osprey backpack factory...
walking foot is the deal breaker , personally id add in zig zag too , not really for leather , but if your buying a heavier duty machine some one will ask you to sew something like horse rugs or boat covers and you will make life easier for your self with zz .
I've only seen the single stitch machine options for leather works. what about buying a commercial Elan? it has lots of embroidery options instead of a single stitch? it has all 5 of the features you mentioned.
Oh man! I wish I had watched this a month ago before buying my sew machine..., I love it anyway but it doesn't "walk" lol, so I have to help pulling the leather with my left hand
Excellent video. Answered several of my questions. Good to know you still use the Cowboy as I've been leaning in that direction. How does the cowboy fare with smaller needles and smaller thread sizes or is it only useful for heavy stuff. All the videos I've found seem to be people using large harpoons with small poly rope to demonstrate the cb3200, Impressive for demonstrations but less informative than I'd like. I made the mistake of going to a needle supplier website based on the needle system listed on the Hitex cb3200 website and now my head hurts front needle size charts. But i also now know that people use plasma metal deposition to coat needles. Horay for science.
Baneironhand can you explain some of what you commented on? I’m new at this and just now decided to get a commercial sewing machine. I repairing purses, shoes, belts, MC. Vests and sewing patches on an old Singer free arm stitcher. I can go slow as I want but what about needle sizes and thread sizes? It not having a walking foot makes it super hard not to tear up the surfaces.
Hey guy, you know that a walking foot machine's walking foot can be raised to accommodate the thickness of the materials you are going to be sewing, but it is not something you can do unless you are a sewing machine mechanic, but it can be done, I've watched our mechanic do it and in our sewing operation where we had over forty machines, some sewing thinner materials as well as sewing leather jackets even heavy leather motorcycle jackets.
DALE thebelldiver instead of walking foot, it's a roller that rotate and grip the leather, the needle drop just a hair beside the roller. It's easier to stitch curve and corner too.
Eddie Puah the pressor foot on the old singer can shred a good purse in a second if I don’t use a protector pad positioned for every stitch. It’s slow and not really effective.
A Singer 201? Or a 221? I have used pieces of tissue paper to get the leather to glide through. I put a piece on each side, top and bottom. It works in a pinch!
Love it. I'm not new to sewing but I am new to leather work. I thought of getting a cylinder type because It can be such a pain to put in zippers. I'm a purse designer wanting to up my game to leather. Will the Cylinder help more with putting in zippers?
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After 17 years of sewing and several machines, I now know what I wish I did 17 years ago. I sew leather, clear vinyl, cotton and nylon web strap, 30oz canvas, ballistic nylon, ect. My favorite machines now are consew 206 rb5 w/v69-v92-v138 thread straight stitch+high lift foot+large bobbin. Consew 227r w/v92-v138 thread straight stitch+high lift foot+cylinderarm. Sailrite lsz-1 w/v69-v92 thread straight and zigzag stitch. Juki lzh-1290 w/v92-v138 thread straight and 10mm wide zigzag+big bobbin. Cowboy 3200 w/v346 thread straight stitch+high lift foot. One other thing I learned, consew's and juki's hold their value, so resale hasn't been a problem. A Speed reducer and a servo motor was the other thing that I had to wrap my mind around. It's the only way to tame a speedy and touchy clutch motor machine. Lastly, find a well established mobile mechanic that has a good reputation with Taylor's, seamstresses, dry cleaners and sweatshops near you, and treat him good.
I've been doing upholstery work for 37 years - residential furniture, automobile seats, boats, commercial healthcare seating, etc. I started doing leathercraft 4 years ago. One thing you DID NOT cover, which is as important as the thread size, is the size and type of NEEDLES you use for your various sewing projects. Round point needles are used for vinyl and cloth materials and can be used for lighter weight leather. But chisel point needles are better for leather because they cut an opening the way a stitching chisel and a hammer does. But they aren't recommended for vinyl and cloth. The needle also MUST be big enough so that whatever size thread you use feeds easily through the eye of the needle you use.
Parker you are my go to guy for 75% of my leather tips HONESTLY.
Thank you so much for the tutelage.
Could you make a video with your TOP 5 "would totally buy" sewing machines?
THIS VIDEO MAKE ME BECOME A BIG FAN OF JUKI , THE DNU1541S IS THE SAME, FOR HALF THE PRICE, STITCHS LEATHER LIKE BUTTER!
I use a Sailrite Fabricator for my leather flatbed machine. It's got a 6 pole servo motor, very powerful, and speed dials way down. I do both leatherwork and upholstery. It's an incredible machine. Best of all I think I paid 1300 brand new for it with everything included.
Parker, this video is gold. Thanks so much for the 5 practical points for evaluation and for letting us learn from your experiences. God bless!!
Ty for all the info. I'm a novice and I truly appreciate any advice.
What you told in this video, was exactly what I would like to know!!! I am just curious about sewing with no hesitation to spend money on quality!!! Thanks so lot for your humble opinion and your beautiful and generously knowledge!!! Stay safe and happily alive sir!.🍀💚👌👍👏😇
Just discovered your channel and this has been a monumental piece of information for me. I’m looking at several machines online and really had no experience with buying an industrial machine at all. You just saved me a lot of time and money. Thanks for the video, my friend!
Thank you for sharing. I am glad I am still doing my research before I purchase my industrial machine.. A week ago. I purchased a Brother Luminaire Xp2 Embroidery & Sewing Machine.
I’m a fifty-some year old mother of a teenage Scout who loves leatherworking and I’m a Parker fan! 😃
Excellent video, right to the point. good humor. appreciated. I grew up with sewing machine. Clearly Know what he is talking about. Learn a lot, not everyday someone gives you advice. thank you
Thanks a lot Sara!
This guy is spot on with his advise...except he said his is a "walking foot" machine which is different than the machine you have there, yours is a triple feed...."Lower, Upper, and Needle" all feed the materials through. triple feed is much better than a walking foot only machine in my opinion. The early Consew 206RB up to the recent 206RB-5 are triple feed machines the older ones were made by Seiko in Japan and are a bit better built than the most recent 206RB-5 models, but the recent models have the ability to adjust the "forward reverse stitch length" much more easily than the early machines. If your doing leather and the reverse stitches need to exactly follow the holes in forward and reverse then the later machine might be a good choice.
Another thing is that you need to learn how to at least check the alignments of these machines and there are two really great videos on RUclips going over everything and it will work on all the Consew 206 models with some different locations of adjustments. You can also use the videos to look over most similar designs like the Juke's adjustments. Don't assume that if it's new it's got to be adjusted correctly, my Consew 206RB sewed "just fine" and so many of the adjustments were totally out of wack, once everything was adjustend correctly it sewed way way better but who would know unless you had two next to each other.
My opinion is the triple feed Juke he has is a step above the Consew 206RB-5 but the Consew is much cheaper and will sew most anything the Juke will. Kind of like saying a Chevy vs. Acura sure both will get you there.
This is just my opinion and worth what you paid for it.
Thanks for being SO GENEROUS in helping others!! G 👍🏼
Yes indeed !
Sailrite Fabricator is my choice.
Really good/helpful video. Good energy and helpful confidence builder. I've only been sewing for a few years , I've had about 9-wrong sewing machines. Way to much wasted money, wife was about to throw me out if I said I need another machine. Walking foot? I didn't know I need one. I kept wondering why my heavy vinyl projects keep slipping while sewing.
Now I have two walking foot machines, one straight stitch and one 1/2" double needle. Anyway, really like your insight and lessons learned sharing...
Thanks from Coalville, Ut. I had a leather and nylon company 25 years ago. Had to give up the leather and nylon because I was a general contractor and couldn't do both. I am through with construction and am starting the leather and a wood business making small cabinets again. I bought and still have a Consew 206RB from Ferdco with a speed reducer and it was reworked so it will use up to and including 207 thread. Sometimes I wished the speed reducer was slower. Good video and a lot of information.
I would add that point #2 is the most important and hardest to obtain. Sewing canvas with many layers and thick window material you just can't do it without. Most on the market aren't able to do six layers of material or more as well as the window materials. Good video. Take care. Doug
A great summary of how to select a leather machine. Thanks.
You are without any doubt the most enthusiastic leathercraftsman I know! Your videos are awesome!
glad to find this channel. Compliments to being straight to the point, not repeating yourself, not saying what you're going to say before you say it (youtube plague). I am now searching for the correct machines, thank you for posting this vid and good job on the a/v.
I have a consew206rb5 that is a compound feed. It is walking foot and needle feed. I got it with a servo motor which can be dialed down to pretty slow speed. It's was 1400 new. I sew up to 10 oz leather with it and it works great. It would sew heavier leather if I wanted. It's a great machine.
Hey there, how are you avoiding the teeth marks?? I too have a 206RB (older one) and the marks seem unavoidable. Thx
On some machines you can reduce the pressure foot pressure by loosening the screw at the top which can help reduced marks. I've also heard of some people filing the dog feed teeth down some - but wouldn't recommend this!
Man, this tip with the speed reducer was awesome. I got an old industrial machine from my grandma which is running uncontrollably fast. I have no idea how she could sew on that thing. So now i am going to give that a try. Thanks man. Loving your content, by the way.
I love my Juki 8700-h I have sewn leather and with a quick change of throat plate it sews silk. Gold star tools sells a walking foot adapter. But maybe I want this one too. Time to call Daines.
Great machine You did get yourself a great deal FYI i got into sewing as a hobby around 10 years ago and there were basically. No videos on walking foot sewing machines so its nice to see channels and guys like you supplying all the information i lucked out that my machine has served me well Although I’m always on the lookout. For other deals that may be slightly nicer to have my main projects are usually boat interiors / cushions and Vintage Sportscars upholstery i would like to expand into leather eventually probably knife sheaths and maybe belts
Learned a ton from this video! Thank you very much! ❤
Can you make a video explaining thread sizing? Different brand of thread seem to have different ways of measuring their thread size and it’s so confusing!
That walking foot is critical. I’m ruining leather without one and using scraps to protect the product. SLOOOOOOW.
Thanks for your information, that I need it
Greeting from leather artisan in Indonesia
I just bought a singer 111w155 walking foot machine. I’m excited to start learning how to sew leather.
aaahhhh the ole 111, one of the best machines ever made.
Thank you so much, I'm starting a leather business myself and That was my problem . I didn't know what to buy
I appreciate your info. may God bless you and those you love
Do not buy a juki they are really easy to foul the bobbin and it always knocks the bobbin shuttle out of time and it is a b to retime, stay away from this 1500 machine.
Another great review! It's so thoughtful for people to share - - it helps the ones that haven't been there yet avoid costly mistakes. Many thanks!!!
Agree with everything you said - especially the slow speeds! I have a Juki DNU 1541 which is a compound needle feed machine like your 1508. I have a servo fitted so I can take the speed right down. I make leather bags but use more chrome tan than veg tan leathers (though I do make veg tan stuff). There are odd occasions when I would like a cylinder head - top stitching awkward areas - but not enough to justify having a cylinder head...I can usually bully the leather to get the flatbed to work...though can be hard on the hands! A lot of places will let you try the machine out at the premises so worth taking typical projects along to try. Edit - my machine is also fitted with an auto needle down - which I love!
Thank you for sharing this wonderful video. I can sense your experience. Blessings and please share some more.
My husband and I buy and sell industrial machines in the Eastern North Carolina area
I have a Chandler which is the same as the 206 RB. All you need is a bigger pulley to slow the machine down.I've been sewing for thirty years .You don't need to go buy a new machine I think the old ones are made better.I have a few that were made for the army during WW2 and they run great! But that's just my opinion lol.I have 7 industrial in my sewing room everything from a walking foot an industrial zig zag and a double needle.I guess I'm a machine border lol.But I do use them all
I cannot fathom, that you bought machines at all before reading the commonly available information, nor testing your particular project type in a sewing machine dealership. You know, they'll let you bring in whatever and try to sew it on their machines.
At any rate, I used the same Juki machine you have now. Never any complaint with it. Reliable and easy to adjust. Bobbin size could have been bigger, but maybe they fixed that on the new ones, idk, but for wallets, that won't be too much of a concern.
I switched to a Durrkopp walking foot, due to a variety of convenient, computerized automations. I get to be lazy about start-stop, backstitch and such details now.
One step further and the machine doesn't need me anymore ^^
I just got a Juki 1541 and I love it
That's a great machine:)
It was a Christmas gift from my husband
Thank you so much I have the same Juki machine.I have been looking for a speed reducer for well over two years This is awesome I will order one right away.Again thank you
Thanks for all the help wish I saw this video earlier it help me in deciding to get my consew206rb I change the pulleys and it was nice to work with.
Wow! My man very good description. I knew all these points with only 3 weeks of research and tons of hours. You did it in 13:28. I just picked up a 1541s with servo mode also used for an awesome price. I tested out thread of 277 today at a industrial sewing machine store in my city and wanted to test it out with the tech there. He advised against that size thread with that machine but i insisted because I have seen other off brand juki style bodies in 1541 that condoned using the 277 thread. I didn't find out about the speed reducer till today and while sewing heavy leather with the tech testing out the 277 it did sew it. It had some adjusting to do but I like to understand my equipment to the maximum to get the maximum out of it. Bottom line is he said I would get more torque and slower speeds which would be able to handle to 277 thread if you know your machine and limits of skill. Bottom line I'm very happy I got the 1541s and will def get a speed reducer. Great video my man and keep up the good content. Thanks
That's good stuff, thanks Greg and good luck!
So I just ordered the speed reducer for my machine and trying to get a bit more detail on the install of it. I know it's not that difficult to do but can you explain what other belt you had to get for the reducer and did you have to move the motor at all or just drill hole for the reducer to line up? I want to get it right the first time so i'm not drilling holes all over the place. Thanks for the help.
I just got my speed reducer in the mail and was wondering from your video if you are supposed to use the smallest gear on the reducer. I see you are only using the largest one and middle one but not the smallest one? Suggestions or help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance
you are a nice guy bro. thanks for the video. useful and honest. good content.
i have a juki lu1509nh flatbed and i am as happy as it gets!
Your information is so important. I can see your that you have great talent and experience . .Good luck and thank you.
Great stuff! Learned a bunch more about sewing machines for leather work! Your videos are great, I really your style in making them.
I made the same mistakes like you too. Bought an juki ddl 227 used for tailoring. Now, I have a consew 206rb-5. I won't make that mistake again!
Btw, loved the ending!
Thanks for sharing your experience. I'm researching the type of machine I want/need and this video was helpful. 👍🍻
Cylinder arm if I'm not mistaken. Geat videos, not very many people want to help others like you're doing. Cheers!
Haha you're right! I realized I was saying that while I was editing. oh well. Hopefully the point is made. Thanks for the kind words!
Servo motors are crucial. They're quieter and you can adjust the speed on most of them. I'd like a cylinder arm with a flatbed attachment.
THANK YOU, the first video that tells me what I need to know.
Great Job!!!
I have the Cowboy 4500 and it sows perfectly with the Tex 135 thread with an needle 23/160 (I believe) the needle is. I did as well at first the mistake to sew with Tex 207 or something like that and with the needle 25/200 (or something) but have since switched to ONLY the #138 thread. The CB 4500 handles perfectly the #138 thread. I believe it can go down to #96 or something as well with an smaller needle and I am sure it would handle that. But honestly size #138 thread is about the lowest it can handle since the tensioners are allmost off the thread released so it had to be fine tuned for #96 thread since thats the lowest it ever will get.
Yes the CB4500 is a fine machine and allmost universal. It is exactly like that the smaller the thread and needle the better the leather work will look - it makes all the difference. Basically the Juki should use same or similar sized needle if you use #138 thread since the thread goes with the needle. Belts look very nice with the #138 thread but not so nice (big honking holes) when using the #207 thread. For wallets #138 is a bit of an overkill and any error (and believe me, errors happen) show readily so I gave up with wallets. I make only belts, holsters, slippers&sandals, COVID-19 masks from leather, smartphone holsters, etc with the #138 thread&needle.
The CB 4500 lifts the foot exactly 15mm up and with the foot pedal it does exactly 21mm, although it was advertised for 22mm with the foot pedal. I wished it would rise a bit more for the slippers&sandals but then the #138 thread is about the minimum you want in slippers, sandals and shoes. Sewing through an rubber insole the upper of the slippers on the foot hight is maxed out but the thread is not ripping off.
My mistake was to order white thread and of the size #207 which is now not in use. Darker threads are more universal like chocolate brown and desert tan.
Thank you for the advice. I am looking for a leather sewing machine and will keep your advice in mind as I shop.
thanks for your info, it was good i passed on this information to somebody that needed it. loved your music at the end also gl to you :)
Just ordered a rex Rc-607 and after I found that they I guess have a one speed motor (haul ass!) also so I’m ordering a over sized flywheel from sailrite that will slow the thing way down looking forward to finding out lol
Another informative video!
I sew leather bags for my employer all day on cylinder arm and post bed machines, and it can be pretty tiring. I definitely prefer a flatbed when a cylinder or post isn't absolutely necessary!
Thanks for sharing the great info!
Thanks bro.. for all your information....
Flatbed is reall becuse the control
good evening please how can I get this JUKI
Brilliant video Parker. Thanks for sharing
Thanks, I'm picking one up next week.
Thanks getting ready to buy soon you helped immensely
been thinking about getting one for my shop. This is super handy!
would be a good move. It completely changed our business!
Thanks for a great informational video. I sew handbags out of Cork Fabric. And I have been looking at the Juki 2010Q but I am not 100% sure. I also am interested in the Cowboy machines. IDK. Confusing. But this is very helpful.
My Juki DNU1541 has a dial under the table for motor speed/torque, and I can Control the sewing speed with skilled foot work
Awesome advise on that speed reducer! I was so confused by my old singer that runs so fast
Thank you very much for this video. You answered questions that have hurt me for more than six months :)
Awesome vid. Is it possible to find a cylinder arm machine with a flatbed attachment to get the benefit of flatbeds without needing to buy 2 machines?
For cowboy 3200 and 4500 you can get a flatbed attachment, but still it's not going to be as convinient, and those heave machines don't do a nice stitch over thin leather (i can't get it as nice as on lower weight machines.
Great info for a beginner. Thanks.
Thanks a bunch.
This was wonderful and exactly what I needed to know! THANK YOU.
PS: That last one is major also. You can't go slow enough for detail work. Pretty good synopsis.
Thank you so much for the video... May God bless you and your family more 🙏🙏🙏
Excellent presentation!! thank you for sharing your knowledge!!!
Thank you Lisa!
Fantastic video. You answered many of the questions I had. Best of luck! BTW I have two S & W shields in 9 mm. Love them!
Thanks Ricky! Glad to hear it. Also glad to hear you're a fellow shield guy. The only thing better than one shield is two i guess:)
Thanks for great info I looking for this MV but I couldnt.
I wll rewatch this MV i will consider your advise
🤗
Yes the most economical would be buy a sewing machine head class CB 4500 on alibaba China individually, the buy the motor on eBay as well as the speed reducer and put that on an table you have at home. I use an old computer table. The table better has to be sturdy and must have an iron frame.
Thanks so much for the info. Im looking into a new hobby. And this is it. So i want to know everything. Going to tandy leather to get more info ob my new craft.
Excellent information. Thanks much.
Great info! Did you look at the Sailrite Fabricator before getting that machine? Excellent youtube channel!!!!
Your videos are awesome thanks for the effort. I just ordered the Juki 1508 H. Could you advise or do a video on what type of thread and needle to use with different weight leathers? I’m looking at making gun holsters.
Came here from LKG
I love juki sewing machines I use to be a double needler forHonda seats in Athens ohio… how did you get started sewing wallets if I may ask? I’m looking at starting something now that our business has moved elsewhere I find myself wanting to sew - So bad Lol but seriously I’m interested in doing something from home I’m also raising a young kid again so working from home would be more convenient, if you have any ideas of what ppl are looking for? Our seats were leather as well so repairing holes or attempting a repair is very difficult I like that you said you could adjust the speed on home industrial machines, “I miss my juki “ great machines thank you for the video and the link below for machines I’ll be checking them out.
Thanks, great!!!!!
I really appreciate your input. I can see you are happy with this machine for leather. Do you know how well this machine will handle very thick heavy fabrics and sequin fabrics? I need a machine for costuming and cosplay.
Im thinking of getting the JUKI for shoe/sneaker making
Could be a solid choice! I don't know too much about the shoe world but you might be better off with a post bed machine
Hi, thank you for your videos, we are learning a lot! With my wife, we want to start making leather bags. We don’t have any experience so far. Thanks to you, we now know we don’t need a simple sewing machine. What machine would you recommend us for tote bags, purses and satchels? Thanks!
I use a THOR GC1541S with the SRG package. I LOVE IT! Which one did you decide to go with?
So helpful this video, thank you Parker!
glad to hear that, thanks Felipe!
A request, for whenever you have time.... I noticed at 6:47, you showed your cowboy 341 machine. I'm curious to see specifically what this machine might do that a flatbed cannot. As I recall, you got rid of the 3200 but later bought a 341. WHen you have time, can you do a review of the 341? Thanks for your videos.....
For example, you could sew cowboy boots with it. They are popular with shoe makers, though they could marginally speed up some apparel work as well, like working on sleeves. I've seen those in an Osprey backpack factory...
Great video, thanks for sharing!
walking foot is the deal breaker , personally id add in zig zag too , not really for leather , but if your buying a heavier duty machine some one will ask you to sew something like horse rugs or boat covers and you will make life easier for your self with zz .
Do you have a video;! How to use the machine? I have a sowing machine! But don’t know how to use it. I keep hand sowing, and it is getting old.
I was wondering if industrial heavy duty machines sew heavy leather too as the have walking feet too
I've only seen the single stitch machine options for leather works. what about buying a commercial Elan? it has lots of embroidery options instead of a single stitch? it has all 5 of the features you mentioned.
Just what i need! thanks!
glad to hear it!
This is amazingly helpful, thanks so much!
Excellent. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for watching Keefe!
Oh man! I wish I had watched this a month ago before buying my sew machine..., I love it anyway but it doesn't "walk" lol, so I have to help pulling the leather with my left hand
Thank you for the video! Very helpful!!
Excellent video. Answered several of my questions. Good to know you still use the Cowboy as I've been leaning in that direction. How does the cowboy fare with smaller needles and smaller thread sizes or is it only useful for heavy stuff. All the videos I've found seem to be people using large harpoons with small poly rope to demonstrate the cb3200, Impressive for demonstrations but less informative than I'd like.
I made the mistake of going to a needle supplier website based on the needle system listed on the Hitex cb3200 website and now my head hurts front needle size charts. But i also now know that people use plasma metal deposition to coat needles. Horay for science.
Baneironhand can you explain some of what you commented on? I’m new at this and just now decided to get a commercial sewing machine. I repairing purses, shoes, belts, MC. Vests and sewing patches on an old Singer free arm stitcher. I can go slow as I want but what about needle sizes and thread sizes?
It not having a walking foot makes it super hard not to tear up the surfaces.
thanks
Hey guy, you know that a walking foot machine's walking foot can be raised to accommodate the thickness of the materials you are going to be sewing, but it is not something you can do unless you are a sewing machine mechanic, but it can be done, I've watched our mechanic do it and in our sewing operation where we had over forty machines, some sewing thinner materials as well as sewing leather jackets even heavy leather motorcycle jackets.
Rumple Stiltskin that’s good to know! Thank you!
i think roller foot works well too if you need to sew close to the edge.
Eddie Puah can you tell me about the roller foot?
DALE thebelldiver instead of walking foot, it's a roller that rotate and grip the leather, the needle drop just a hair beside the roller. It's easier to stitch curve and corner too.
Eddie Puah the pressor foot on the old singer can shred a good purse in a second if I don’t use a protector pad positioned for every stitch. It’s slow and not really effective.
A Singer 201? Or a 221? I have used pieces of tissue paper to get the leather to glide through. I put a piece on each side, top and bottom. It works in a pinch!
Great information, thanks!
Love it. I'm not new to sewing but I am new to leather work. I thought of getting a cylinder type because It can be such a pain to put in zippers. I'm a purse designer wanting to up my game to leather. Will the Cylinder help more with putting in zippers?