This was a good video to start with. I'm not sure what machine to get but this video helped me understand some fundamentals. I'm sorta glad your thread broke while stitching because this allowed you to show how to recover the piece without tossing it and starting over.
This video was EXCELLENT! Exactly what I was looking for. I just purchased a cobra class 26, and while I am not new to sewing machines, I am new to leather machines. I have so many questions, and you answered quite a few. I will be looking for more of your videos. Thank you!
Thanks so much! Very helpful!! Having trouble with thread breaking... Works great sewing duck, switch to suede and thread breaks right off... Trying different threads and feet!! Thanks again!
This is a good video , but I would like to mention that the best thread to sew thicker leather pieces is bonded to the core polyester ,because it does not stretch as much as nylon threads do and when you are sewing thick leather like vegetable tanned Leather (like you are sewing now)three is a tremendous friction between the thread and the leather piece and friction means heat and one of the reason your thread broke in the middle of the process because ,first you used nylon thread and it is very susceptible to heat and second , the size B92 thread you are using is a bit thin for such project ,there is a thread size that is only available at Advanced Leather Design Bond 1 thread that is +B92 (which does not exist in North American Thread size Chart)and it is slightly thicker than B92 and slightly thinner that B138 and it is specifically designed at Advanced Leather Design to see leather pieces like this,and always use Chiseled needles (it is also know as LR needles In the industry)it has chiseled like that is angled and it is designed for leather sewing and also you can use TIR needles which has an obelisk shape tip but these two needles give a different stitch appearances.There is also one more thing to mention is for sewing machines that have transport system ( where there are three parts in the sewing machine that push the leather piece forward ,1-the dog feed ,2-the walking foot,3-the needle and the needle bar )use a thicker thread for the top stitches and thinner for bobbin thread such as in this case +B92 for the top and regular B92 for the bobbin thread and also adjust the bobbin thread and top thread accordingly to get the best result.
Kudos for showing possible mistakes. That's especially helpful. As far as holding your thread for the first couple of stitches... it's also a good idea in general to make sure the thread take-up lever is at its highest position before starting to stitch.
That tip about how to position the needle when you're getting ready to back stitch was a GODSEND! That was driving me nutso. Also really appreciate about the pressure foot leaving footprints, I'll mess with that and see if I can improve it. Thank you!
Thanks for your tips. Just getting started using our Sailrite LSZ-1. Need to order the leather presser foot so it will not jack up the leather. Ray, Oklahoma
Great info thanks. The reason the thread broke is that Juki recommends that you thread thru that guide it hooked on. After the check spring it should go thru 2 guides to the take up arm then back thru the same 1st guide. This will help control the thread better. See thread routing in manual and it shows it going thru that guide twice.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge! I greatly appreciate you taking the time to make the video and leaving in the portion when the thread broke. This was a real teaching moment that was beneficial to myself and I’m sure many others. 👏👏👏
Such an awesome video with a lot of information and I'm glad the thread broke in the middle of the video actually that taught me how to handle such a situation too. Thank you for your time and knowledge.
I like that you even posted that issues do happen. Makes me feel ok. I am new to leather stitching and I have tones of issues. 😂 great video. Thanks for taking the time to make it.
Was working with a JUKI LU563 but the slow speed didn’t create the torque I needed, nabbed a Singer 29K70 from the ‘40’s it’s a freaking dream with the treadle
Thank you so much! I've a big walking foot machine that likes to leave marks in my leather, so much I turned to hand stitching........I will release presser foot pressure and see If I can source a smooth presser foot as well. Love your videos. I've learnt plenty. Bless y'all.
Bout a year late but super helpful. I just got an industrial machine and having trouble getting the beginning stitches to look right. Pulling the thread helped.
That was really good information. Especially about the pressure foot on my sewing machine I tried to push the pressure is high as I could to make the leather go through and couldn't figure out why it wouldn't work very well now I'm going to go completely the other way and loosen up the pressure and hopefully I have better luck. Thank you for sharing
I used a compass to mark the line. As it doesn‘t cut a line in the leather, we just tapped the thread gently down into the leather with a plastic-hammer and/or also by applying pressure on the thread with a folding bone.
this is what I was looking for! The tip to hold the thread tight at start is what I needed. I had a difficulty with the mess at the start and end of my stitch. I'm going to try this tip but I have faith that it really works! ta!
If you are suffering from presser-foot marking, it may help to put a layer of masking tape on the leather, mark that up and sew through it. The stiching then weakens the tape and allows you to tear it away either side of the stitching. Finally clean up any gum from the tape with a quick acetone wipe (a makeup remover pad, perhaps). At an early point, he was using the edge groover backwards as a creaser. The other side is sharpened and actually removes a thin thread of leather, when used normally - I have seen a reference to a left-handed head, many moons ago - I think it failed because you can equally think of moving the leather against the tool as moving the tool along the leather - which allows the left-handed user to use the right-handed tool.
Hello, first let me say that I find your post very informative and helpful to new leather workers like me. With that being said can I have your take on VEVOR Industrial Sewing Machine DDL8700 Lockstitch Sewing Machine with Servo Motor + Table Stand Commercial Grade Sewing Machine for Sewing Thank you
I can’t tell you how much you cleared up for me with this video! Thank you! And thank you for taking the time to create it and teach us!! Very grateful!
I’m a beginner in making leather projects. Trying to make this as a hobby and at the same time make money out of it for my upcoming retirement. Looking forward to buy a heavy duty walking foot leather sewing machine. I guess consew 255 R is the best for me to buy. Please give me tips on what kind of machine is best for me and you might know where to buy. Thank you so much. I’ll keep watching your blog
3 questions if you please, what model is your juki ? What brand and model of servo motor are you using ? Did you make any changes to the upper tension assembly, beyond stock parts ? Thanks !
Great video mate. How about a video on how to correct mistakes or misfeed when sewing with machine, instead of redoing the whole stitch line. I haven’t found any practical informative video out there. Your videos are very clear and easy to understand.
I learnt how to thread the juki 1508NS. I have no idea why two bobbins. What’s the point ? Which should I use and when should I use direct spool feed. I tried to stich some thin leather. Not sure what happened. It all bunched up
Hi, thanks for your video, I've a walking foot machine that likes to leave deep marks in my leather, if. If I put tensions screw up I have another problem - walking foot doesn't evenly spread the different thicknesses of the leather, for example in the folded coin pocket. Any idea how to avoid this problem? Thanks a lot!
I'm having trouble sewing the tip of an english point . I can't get the turn around to look neat using my Juki machine and have taken to stopping short on the straight away and saddle stitching the point. Any hints?? or could you do another great video on that technique? Thanks for all your helpful videos for those of us just getting started. Cheers!
really good to get all this info that you share on sewing machines. I'm in the process of looking and in Australia we don't have a real lot of choice and although I can buy the JUKI that you have now, it's over $4000 and I'm real worried about spending the money but every day I hand sew and it's becoming very hard with the arthritis I have, so going in next week to see a few machines sew and talk to the sales man
Absolutely Cherylene, Parker has really given some great advice on buying sewing machines & using them. In my opinion 100% you must buy the Juki and fit it with a speed reducer. Obviously this depends on your financial situation but if you can stretch to it financially then the difference will be worth it.
Hi there! Great video to get started on. I sew on a regular machine but this gave me an incite on the workings of an industrial machine. Keep up the videos they help getting all who sew more professional and proficient. God bless and take care.
I am new to sewing with a machine and every time I try to backstitch the top side looks great but the bottom side looks terrible. I’ve checked my tension and everything is fine for forward sewing but as soon as I go in reverse it bunches at the bottom. What am I doing wrong? I have a Sailrite sewing machine.
I'm not familiar with that sewing machine - but is there a thread cutter on that machine? If so, it might be on the back of the shank where you attach the presser foot - right behind that black screw. If you have one, you can hook your thread right on it and it should keep the tension for your first couple of stitches. It's just a little angled slot, if it has one. If not, sorry to bother.
Thanks great tips. Sometimes I need to sew thick leather but I get stuck with the sewing machine foot can you please show us how to adjust the foot according to the leather thickness.. Thanks again great work!
I have an old ( older than your tender years :) that I can see a lot of the veg dyed leathers on. I’m wondering is their away of making a home machine accept a 4 oz or so leather? I feel sure I probably can’t but wondered just for grins what you think. I’m a senior so buying a commercial sewing machine would be a big purchase. Tempted as I am . I d like to try my hand at a heavier weight without hand sewing it ? Your videos are outstanding and your presentation is great. Thanks for help
Home Depot has a fairly inexpensive machine that can do 8 oz thick leather, $115. Regular sewing machines can do thin leather, but if you want to do 16 oz thick you'll have to get a more expensive model.
Hi there, it's actually a Juki 1508. and no, this one couldn't. You would need a harness stitcher like the Juki 441 or any of it's clones like the cobra class 3 (or 4) or the cowboy cb3200 (or 4500)
Great video again. I’d be really interested in a video showing the different feet that you use on your sewing machines and the skiver too. Thanks again for taking the time to make these really valuable insights
Looking for how to sew a raised ridge. I seen this looks like 2 straight stitches side by side with a raised ridge in the middle. If you look on the backside it looks like a cross stitch. How is this done? what is this stitch called? can't find any info anywhere on it..
Where do you get your leather from? I am just getting into leather making goods. I cut my leather with a big laser. I just wanted to know where you are getting you leather stock from. I do laser engraving on other materials as well. When starting out did you have patterns you followed? Say if you were to cut a wallet! Great video
infinitely Blessed Newer industrial sewing machines are usually a copy and clone of an older original Singer sewing machine. Example: The Juki sewing machine in this video is one of the best, new clones of a Singer 111W156 (which is a reversible version of the Singer 111W155). It takes extra effort to clean, lubricate and adjust a used vintage Singer that has been stored away for a long period but it is hard to duplicate the quality and craftsmanship of a vintage Singer industrial sewing machine. Juki comes as close as any manufacturer to duplicating Singer quality. As mentioned at the end of this video, proper care and lubrication of these machines will allow them to last for generations.
How does a smooth presser foot keep enough friction to pull your piece through? My experience has been that too little friction cause the piece not to advance, therefore stitches immediately become uneven in length
I don't understand how you started in one point and finished in other (not the starting point) and had the missing part already stitches. Did you backstitch that mush when nobody was looking?
Hi, thanks for that, very informative. I was particularly interested to se the speed reducer in action. I am interested in getting a machine that is able to sew heavier materials like leather. Are these machines also capable of doing lighter materials well?
Thanks for the video, I sent you on an email a while back. Ive been making leather holsters and now you have me intrigued wanting to make leather wallets. .
of course! wallets are a little easier to keep consistent and you can make them in batches. Holsters are a little more difficult because you have to deal with all the different gun models. But it's all the same process:) Lately i've starting to make more gun holsters. Not for the business but just for personal use. It's fun stuff
Parker, wouldn't it make sense to remove completely broken thread and start the stitching from the scratch taking care of hitting the same holes? Nice vid a lot useful informations!
Hey thanks for the good tips and links etc Did you make the hat you are wearing ? I’m a big fan of hats etc. and ive been looking at a few i own and becoming interested in making one or learning how
Thanks for the video. When I sew the curve I have trouble with spacing between stitchi , they get wider then the straight area. Did that ever happen to you?
This was a good video to start with. I'm not sure what machine to get but this video helped me understand some fundamentals. I'm sorta glad your thread broke while stitching because this allowed you to show how to recover the piece without tossing it and starting over.
This video was EXCELLENT! Exactly what I was looking for. I just purchased a cobra class 26, and while I am not new to sewing machines, I am new to leather machines. I have so many questions, and you answered quite a few. I will be looking for more of your videos. Thank you!
Sorry, I didn't listen a word.
I was too busy to admire this amazing and perfect edge holy cow !
Thanks so much! Very helpful!! Having trouble with thread breaking... Works great sewing duck, switch to suede and thread breaks right off... Trying different threads and feet!! Thanks again!
This is a good video , but I would like to mention that the best thread to sew thicker leather pieces is bonded to the core polyester ,because it does not stretch as much as nylon threads do and when you are sewing thick leather like vegetable tanned Leather (like you are sewing now)three is a tremendous friction between the thread and the leather piece and friction means heat and one of the reason your thread broke in the middle of the process because ,first you used nylon thread and it is very susceptible to heat and second , the size B92 thread you are using is a bit thin for such project ,there is a thread size that is only available at Advanced Leather Design Bond 1 thread that is +B92 (which does not exist in North American Thread size Chart)and it is slightly thicker than B92 and slightly thinner that B138 and it is specifically designed at Advanced Leather Design to see leather pieces like this,and always use Chiseled needles (it is also know as LR needles In the industry)it has chiseled like that is angled and it is designed for leather sewing and also you can use TIR needles which has an obelisk shape tip but these two needles give a different stitch appearances.There is also one more thing to mention is for sewing machines that have transport system ( where there are three parts in the sewing machine that push the leather piece forward ,1-the dog feed ,2-the walking foot,3-the needle and the needle bar )use a thicker thread for the top stitches and thinner for bobbin thread such as in this case +B92 for the top and regular B92 for the bobbin thread and also adjust the bobbin thread and top thread accordingly to get the best result.
Kudos for showing possible mistakes. That's especially helpful. As far as holding your thread for the first couple of stitches... it's also a good idea in general to make sure the thread take-up lever is at its highest position before starting to stitch.
That tip about how to position the needle when you're getting ready to back stitch was a GODSEND! That was driving me nutso. Also really appreciate about the pressure foot leaving footprints, I'll mess with that and see if I can improve it. Thank you!
Thank you so much. Just got my Industrial Walking foot slowed down enough so i can now learn. This was a very instructional video.
Love how you showed the pivot move on the corner stitch!
Thanks for your tips. Just getting started using our Sailrite LSZ-1. Need to order the leather presser foot so it will not jack up the leather. Ray, Oklahoma
Thanks for a great, informative video. I liked seeing how you corrected for the thread break.
Thanks John!
That was very nice of you to take your time and give us some good tips thank you I really appreciate it God bless you brother
Great info thanks. The reason the thread broke is that Juki recommends that you thread thru that guide it hooked on. After the check spring it should go thru 2 guides to the take up arm then back thru the same 1st guide. This will help control the thread better. See thread routing in manual and it shows it going thru that guide twice.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge! I greatly appreciate you taking the time to make the video and leaving in the portion when the thread broke. This was a real teaching moment that was beneficial to myself and I’m sure many others. 👏👏👏
Thanks for correcting and restarting for us new leather sewing people.
Super helpful. Learning how to adjust the presser foot tension was worth watching the whole thing. I appreciate you sharing your knowledge.
Such an awesome video with a lot of information and I'm glad the thread broke in the middle of the video actually that taught me how to handle such a situation too. Thank you for your time and knowledge.
thank you bro....always love to learn from you some tips and technique of doing leather craft..greetings from Indonesia
I like that you even posted that issues do happen. Makes me feel ok. I am new to leather stitching and I have tones of issues. 😂 great video. Thanks for taking the time to make it.
Was working with a JUKI LU563 but the slow speed didn’t create the torque I needed, nabbed a Singer 29K70 from the ‘40’s it’s a freaking dream with the treadle
Thank you for pointing out the timing for making a 90 degree turn. Took me forever to figure out that sweet spot.
Thank you so much! I've a big walking foot machine that likes to leave marks in my leather, so much I turned to hand stitching........I will release presser foot pressure and see If I can source a smooth presser foot as well. Love your videos. I've learnt plenty. Bless y'all.
Very nice video👍... Can u pl tell me which juki machine u r useing....
Kudos to you. I really enjoy your informative vids. I'm learning a lot from your choice of topic. Thank you again.
Bout a year late but super helpful. I just got an industrial machine and having trouble getting the beginning stitches to look right. Pulling the thread helped.
Thanks for the info! I’m going to be brave and unbox my machine, I’ve had for 5-8 years
That was really good information. Especially about the pressure foot on my sewing machine I tried to push the pressure is high as I could to make the leather go through and couldn't figure out why it wouldn't work very well now I'm going to go completely the other way and loosen up the pressure and hopefully I have better luck. Thank you for sharing
Very useful video for a beginner. Thank you so much...
Just got my machine and thanks for the tipssss
I used a compass to mark the line. As it doesn‘t cut a line in the leather, we just tapped the thread gently down into the leather with a plastic-hammer and/or also by applying pressure on the thread with a folding bone.
Great talent and video You are very experienced May God continue to bless you and your channel.
this is what I was looking for! The tip to hold the thread tight at start is what I needed. I had a difficulty with the mess at the start and end of my stitch. I'm going to try this tip but I have faith that it really works! ta!
If you are suffering from presser-foot marking, it may help to put a layer of masking tape on the leather, mark that up and sew through it. The stiching then weakens the tape and allows you to tear it away either side of the stitching. Finally clean up any gum from the tape with a quick acetone wipe (a makeup remover pad, perhaps).
At an early point, he was using the edge groover backwards as a creaser. The other side is sharpened and actually removes a thin thread of leather, when used normally - I have seen a reference to a left-handed head, many moons ago - I think it failed because you can equally think of moving the leather against the tool as moving the tool along the leather - which allows the left-handed user to use the right-handed tool.
Hello, first let me say that I find your post very informative and helpful to new leather workers like me.
With that being said can I have your take on VEVOR Industrial Sewing Machine DDL8700 Lockstitch Sewing Machine with Servo Motor + Table Stand Commercial Grade Sewing Machine for Sewing
Thank you
I can’t tell you how much you cleared up for me with this video! Thank you! And thank you for taking the time to create it and teach us!! Very grateful!
Quick question… what was the needle size and description of the point ???? Sharp versus rounded, etc.
Thanks !! Nice stuff !!
I’m a beginner in making leather projects. Trying to make this as a hobby and at the same time make money out of it for my upcoming retirement. Looking forward to buy a heavy duty walking foot leather sewing machine. I guess consew 255 R is the best for me to buy.
Please give me tips on what kind of machine is best for me and you might know where to buy.
Thank you so much. I’ll keep watching your blog
3 questions if you please, what model is your juki ? What brand and model of servo motor are you using ? Did you make any changes to the upper tension assembly, beyond stock parts ? Thanks !
wow really good video. I have one question. What is the lamp which you are using?
Just came with the machine, not sure where to get them🤷🏼♂️
I’ll keep an eye out though
That's Right! Teaching opportunity. I've learned a lot watching your videos. Thanks!😄
haha glad to hear it. Thanks Archie!
Great video mate. How about a video on how to correct mistakes or misfeed when sewing with machine, instead of redoing the whole stitch line. I haven’t found any practical informative video out there. Your videos are very clear and easy to understand.
Golden opportunity to make your video stand out with that accident! So glad you took advantage of that! Now I know what to do if that happens to me 😁
I had my machine for a little while before I figured out some of the tips you mentioned here. Learned a few more today. Great Stuff. Thanks
I learnt how to thread the juki 1508NS. I have no idea why two bobbins. What’s the point ? Which should I use and when should I use direct spool feed. I tried to stich some thin leather. Not sure what happened. It all bunched up
Hello, what model machine do you use? also what foot do you find best?
Hi, thanks for your video, I've a walking foot machine that likes to leave deep marks in my leather, if. If I put tensions screw up I have another problem - walking foot doesn't evenly spread the different thicknesses of the leather, for example in the folded coin pocket. Any idea how to avoid this problem? Thanks a lot!
I've got better experience from ur tutorial....thnx a lot
The aftermarket wheel you mention for slowing down the machine, where is that from? Can you send a link pls.? Thanks
Oh thanks for sharing , I get it now!
always a pleasant and informative video...thanks
Thanks for the advice. You’re an excellent teacher
Thank you Will!
Beautiful stuff, Thank you
I'm having trouble sewing the tip of an english point . I can't get the turn around to look neat using my Juki machine and have taken to stopping short on the straight away and saddle stitching the point. Any hints?? or could you do another great video on that technique? Thanks for all your helpful videos for those of us just getting started. Cheers!
You are amazing and generous for sharing all these information
I really liked that machine, where can I buy it?
Greetings from Nayarit, Mexico
Where I can find the foot that you have on your machine? Can you please send me a link where I can find it or its name please. Thanks!
Thank for explaining the ending knot procedure. The Sailrite videos don’t explain that. Thank you
This video is great! You’re so nice & helpful
really good to get all this info that you share on sewing machines. I'm in the process of looking and in Australia we don't have a real lot of choice and although I can buy the JUKI that you have now, it's over $4000 and I'm real worried about spending the money but every day I hand sew and it's becoming very hard with the arthritis I have, so going in next week to see a few machines sew and talk to the sales man
good luck finding a machine! You're life will change in a big way when you make the jump;)
Absolutely Cherylene, Parker has really given some great advice on buying sewing machines & using them. In my opinion 100% you must buy the Juki and fit it with a speed reducer. Obviously this depends on your financial situation but if you can stretch to it financially then the difference will be worth it.
Hi there! Great video to get started on. I sew on a regular machine but this gave me an incite on the workings of an industrial machine. Keep up the videos they help getting all who sew more professional and proficient. God bless and take care.
Thanks Michele!
I am new to sewing with a machine and every time I try to backstitch the top side looks great but the bottom side looks terrible. I’ve checked my tension and everything is fine for forward sewing but as soon as I go in reverse it bunches at the bottom. What am I doing wrong?
I have a Sailrite sewing machine.
Lots of good info. Thank you!
I am going to have to get one of those edgers now. Thanks for the tips.
It's a good tool to have!
I'm not familiar with that sewing machine - but is there a thread cutter on that machine? If so, it might be on the back of the shank where you attach the presser foot - right behind that black screw. If you have one, you can hook your thread right on it and it should keep the tension for your first couple of stitches. It's just a little angled slot, if it has one. If not, sorry to bother.
Great video! Recovering from the SNAFU was the best part! Thanks for sharing your experience with us!
Agreed. Working through the issue out loud was very helpful and informative.
Thanks great tips. Sometimes I need to sew thick leather but I get stuck with the sewing machine foot can you please show us how to adjust the foot according to the leather thickness.. Thanks again great work!
Thank you for that, great video
What is the type and size of needle that is used here?
That's a really pretty piece of material. What is it and how thick? Thanks!
I have an old ( older than your tender years :) that I can see a lot of the veg dyed leathers on. I’m wondering is their away of making a home machine accept a 4 oz or so leather? I feel sure I probably can’t but wondered just for grins what you think. I’m a senior so buying a commercial sewing machine would be a big purchase. Tempted as I am . I d like to try my hand at a heavier weight without hand sewing it ?
Your videos are outstanding and your presentation is great.
Thanks for help
Home Depot has a fairly inexpensive machine that can do 8 oz thick leather, $115. Regular sewing machines can do thin leather, but if you want to do 16 oz thick you'll have to get a more expensive model.
Mountain Fisher thank you so much
@@aprilboyd328 www.sewingmachinesplus.com/juki-sewing-machines.php?gclid=Cj0KCQiAmafhBRDUARIsACOKERPMmblfj8JmQEkmALahQib8rTzyM0dRR7TABc6qfEN-V9T2R84gaxcaAqxtEALw_wcB
dude this is one of the best vids on the subject out there. Thanks
Hello sir, I have a question. I’m assuming your machine is a juki ddl-5550, would your machine be able to handle 9-13mm thick leather do you think?
Hi there, it's actually a Juki 1508. and no, this one couldn't. You would need a harness stitcher like the Juki 441 or any of it's clones like the cobra class 3 (or 4) or the cowboy cb3200 (or 4500)
@@whitandpark thanks for the info and taking the time to respond. you are a true craftsman.
try to cover youre preserput with not that tick leather so there will be no footmarks,put some glue or adhesive on it so it will stick to cover it
did you use leather specialized needle?
Hey bud, is your piece glued before you stitch
Great video again. I’d be really interested in a video showing the different feet that you use on your sewing machines and the skiver too. Thanks again for taking the time to make these really valuable insights
Thanks for the video, I'm still learning to use my new machine, and this really helps
Looking for how to sew a raised ridge. I seen this looks like 2 straight stitches side by side with a raised ridge in the middle. If you look on the backside it looks like a cross stitch. How is this done? what is this stitch called? can't find any info anywhere on it..
hi, could you help me pls...what kind of thread would you use for watches? thx!
Where do you get your leather from? I am just getting into leather making goods. I cut my leather with a big laser. I just wanted to know where you are getting you leather stock from. I do laser engraving on other materials as well. When starting out did you have patterns you followed? Say if you were to cut a wallet! Great video
I've got a really old industrial leather machine but I was wondering if you think it would be better if I got an newer one when cash allows.
infinitely Blessed Newer industrial sewing machines are usually a copy and clone of an older original Singer sewing machine. Example: The Juki sewing machine in this video is one of the best, new clones of a Singer 111W156 (which is a reversible version of the Singer 111W155).
It takes extra effort to clean, lubricate and adjust a used vintage Singer that has been stored away for a long period but it is hard to duplicate the quality and craftsmanship of a vintage Singer industrial sewing machine. Juki comes as close as any manufacturer to duplicating Singer quality.
As mentioned at the end of this video, proper care and lubrication of these machines will allow them to last for generations.
Awesome video! I know nothing about sewing leather and this was very informative! Will Subscribe for sure!
Amazing tips my friend; many thanks for share.
How does a smooth presser foot keep enough friction to pull your piece through? My experience has been that too little friction cause the piece not to advance, therefore stitches immediately become uneven in length
I don't understand how you started in one point and finished in other (not the starting point) and had the missing part already stitches. Did you backstitch that mush when nobody was looking?
Thanks for the tips and specially for the final music.
Hand stitch my fav
Hi, thanks for that, very informative. I was particularly interested to se the speed reducer in action. I am interested in getting a machine that is able to sew heavier materials like leather. Are these machines also capable of doing lighter materials well?
Thanks for the video, I sent you on an email a while back. Ive been making leather holsters and now you have me intrigued wanting to make leather wallets. .
of course! wallets are a little easier to keep consistent and you can make them in batches. Holsters are a little more difficult because you have to deal with all the different gun models. But it's all the same process:) Lately i've starting to make more gun holsters. Not for the business but just for personal use. It's fun stuff
Can a 226 consew sew 7/8 leather with 2/3 lining ...thank you
Parker, wouldn't it make sense to remove completely broken thread and start the stitching from the scratch taking care of hitting the same holes? Nice vid a lot useful informations!
Can one use a sewing machine with molded projects that have one molded piece attached to a flat piece?
Thanks for your videos, greetings from mexico, what model is your juki sewing machine?
Anyone know which thread is best to use with SINGER HD 4452?
Where do you pick up your presser feet?
Thank you so much for all the great info! I know it’s time consuming to make videos - so thanks for doing this!! :0)
thank you for the pointers!!! really enjoyed your video.
Is the foot you are using a zipper foot?
Hey thanks for the good tips and links etc Did you make the hat you are wearing ? I’m a big fan of hats etc. and ive been looking at a few i own and becoming interested in making one or learning how
Thanks for the video.
When I sew the curve I have trouble with spacing between stitchi , they get wider then the straight area. Did that ever happen to you?